Love it jessy! I really appreciate the shout out. I’m glad you were able to spread the word more on this process. Obviously it may not be for everyone but it can be very effective in a finishing arsenal & as you stated proper ppe & safety everyone! Be on the look out for that DW care package. Keep those videos coming & thank you! If you guys aren’t subbed you need to be, jessy does so much for our 3D print community & he’s doing it again here!
I'm glad I got back into watching UJ's videos if only because it lead me to you. I grew up in a body shop so I can definitely appreciate the process. Time to hit up harbor freight while my Mjolnir helmet prints on my Sunlu s8 pro (cr 10 knockoff).
You know the best part of this video? When the adaptor was incorrect for the airbrush so you were able to just 3D print one. That, right there, is my favourite part about 3D printing. Amazing video as usual dude, always a fantastic watch 💪
I appreciate your take on this method and construction of the video. Firstly that you cover safety, PPE, and realistic cost. Second that you actually titled the video appropriately and didn’t allude to some new and better method. It’s just you. Spraying some bondo. With that, I feel like this is literally just a can of spraypaint filler primer with WAY more steps lol 😂 that you still have to sand down anyway.
Great idea! I use this stuff already along with rapid build primer to smooth my sla prints and turn them into mould masters for casting, but I never thought of spraying it. The bondo spotting putty is so "dusty/dry" when sanding, it's really nice to work with. I've tried other solutions but most of them are "gummy" when you try to sand them. Great video!
I've got another option people can try as well. I've been using Evercoat Featherfill G2 Primer for quite some time now, works in pretty much the same way. It fills layer lines, gives a well bonded hard surface that is easily sanded and takes any paint you want to use on top of it. I used it, or similar products for many, many years for other work projects, model building, and to help fill tooling marks from fabrication on a variety of materials. I carried it's usage over to my 3D printing obsession a handful of years ago and it's all I use now. It makes sense that the spot putty works well, since once it's thinned it works like a high build primer/filler/surfacer when sprayed onto a 3D print. Featherfill is expensive at $125/gallon now (used to be about $75 just a year ago), but it goes a LONG way when airbrushing especially when thinned down. It does also come in quarts if you need less.
You can also buy primer filler that basically does the same thing. It's a thick primer that fills in layer lines pretty good. I have used it many times. I often spray, sand, spray & a final sand then paint.
I've been doing this with regular injection molded plastic models for decades. learned the trick from Dave Merriman when I lived in Virginia Beach. I haven't done the airbrushing, but I have been brushing on thinned glazing putty to fill seams and gaps. I use a product called Nitro-Stan instead of Bondo glazing, but Bondo will work also.
Ex autobody guy here. Don't use single stage solvent based fillers. They will continue to off-gas and the material will shrink over time. Your print lines can return weeks or months later and ruin your otherwise perfect topcoat. It's not much different than shrinking joint compound when refinishing and painting a wall.
I think what he’s saying is to use regular 2 part bondo, but the thing is that all fillers tend to shrink over time to varying degrees. But I think your applying this in such thin amounts the shrinkage will be negligible. One thing I would do if using this process, which is what I do when using glazing compound already, is wait a day before you primer it so that it off gasses plenty before you seal it in. May not matter when you consider the tiny amount on there but I’ve not had any issues so far of layer lines showing up later, at least not yet.
I believe it was recommended to use a gravity fed airbrush for this process. You used a siphon airbrush. I wonder how different the results were between both types.
Honestly I seen no difference in using the gravity. They definitely make ones with larger reservoirs vs siphon receptacles but you don’t want to go crazy with large amounts of acetone. Small amounts of acetone especially when exposed to UV light are extremely volatile & less dangerous. So on a safety scale anything around 35ml or less is better.
@unclejesey. I like this idea. It reminds me of how I use to smooth old plaster walls with heavy textures. I am a drywall taper of 26 years. I specialized in restoration of vintage homes. We would trowel on the first 2 coats then spay thin mud on to fill pin holes and the like. But we did not sand the first 2 coats, we would scrape the high spots. So this raises the question of why you don't use scrapers at the start to knock down the high ridges of layer lines. I believe that it would greatly reduce the filling and sanding. Cabinet makers have been doing this for centuries. It reduces the risk of making the harder wood grain to ridge up. A set of cabinet scrapers are cheap. I don't 3d print, yet. So it would be a interesting idea to try out for a video as a finishing video related to this video. 🤔 Keep up with your awesome work. You are definitely the resin printer king 🤴 👏. Cheers for now from Calgary Alberta Canada 🇨🇦 👍 😀 👏
Having a set of scrapers should be in everyone’s toolbox that is 3D printing however it’s not always neccisary to scrape your parts. The idea here is to speed up the process. This method coupled with filler primer goes a long way in speeding up and reducing sanding time. 3D printing is already slow if you have a Cartesian printer at 60-80 mm per second, a bit faster if you have a flsun super racer 200 mm per second and ever faster still if you have a Bambu labs x1 carbon 300-500 mm per second, but even then many of these parts eat a lot of time just printing, then more time tediously sanding. With intricate detailed models, like the interior of the mask he used, it’s almost impossible to sand. Sand blasting with walnut media will reduce detail more then the method used in this video. Like with all things 3D printed it’s a trade off. Certainly another tool for the toolbox, but not for every build.
Awesome video! Since you already have the compressor setup, a good way to sand the backside might be to use a sandblaster or other abrasive media like walnut shells. Harbor Freight sells a chamber for this to recycle the media, but you can also do it open air if you don’t mind losing the abrasive after using it once. I have been wanting to try it, but have not yet been able to make the space in my house! Might be a great way to get consistent sanding quickly and to smooth out high detail areas!
As usual, your video’s are awesome. Thank you! Personally, what I do is Elmer’s Wood Filler - water it down then paint it on the model. Wait for it to dry, then sand back. Layer lines disappear. For a piece that’s glued to another piece - Elmer’s Wood Filler (not watered down) applied to the gap - again, sand down, and the gap disappears (as long as you apply it properly). Thank you again for your awesomeness.
Coming from an ex-body man, that putty is virtually a thick primer. Although acetone will work, lacquer thinner would probably work better. The problem with this method is the material (putty/primer) will shrink over time, which eventually all the lines and flaws you are trying to cover will start to show through six months to a year later. To eliminate this altogether, I would recommend a catalyzed primer from an automotive paint supplier, which is typically a two-part mix. It might get a little pricey just to forewarn you, but it will probably sand much better than Bondo and give better results. JMO.
Question I found on a review for the Saturn... I'm researching and have come across your videos so I'm just asking you. Is it really necessary to buy all of this to use the Saturn S???? (the following is from the review) "Here are the items you should buy with it:- Curing & washing machine- Lots of resin (recommend water washable unless you know a plumber)- Gallons of 99% alcohol- Chemical gloves (reusable)- Spray bottles- UV protective glasses- UV flashlights / lights- Lunch trays- Slap mats for spills- A cover if you do curing next to printer- Tons of shop paper towels (not regular)- FEP replacement film- Good tweezers for remove supports- A respirator for VOCs- Good hobby knife set- Bulk paint brushes and Qtips for connecting parts- Bamboo toothbrushes for cleaning before curing- Small jars for resin painting / gluing- PTFE if you have bad FEP film- Screen protector for LCD- Extra build plates to keep printing while you clean prints- Extra resin trays for quick swapping- Funnels- Funnel paint filters for failed print resin- Adhesive handles for handling the shell carefully- Magnetic removal plates are a must (measure you build plate before ordering)- Good blow dryer- Digital calipers- USB extension cable- Ventahood or air purifier for VOC and alcohol fumes (your whole house will smell like alcohol and rubber)- Solid level surface- Climate controlled area- Sink with drain filter to catch support debris- Bright non-fluorescent lighting- A powerful computer (or patience to the moon) for splicing software- Possibly the premium versions of CAD and splicing software."
I have also heard that in some circles that people are using this technique and then during the sanding process they’re using an abrasive cabinet. Using a fine granite silica to lightly sand blast the parts.
Nail polish remover or 90% proof IPA has also been highly recommended for thinning spot putty, for working materials less harsh than acetone. Respirator mask is still mandatory in a well ventilated area, make sure the filters are rated for chemical fumes & not just dust.
That spot putty is my go to filler and I have thinned it with acetone before - it makes it easier to get in to tight areas that you couldn't get if you were spreading it - but I never though about spraying it. Might have to get a cheap airbrush and give that a try!
Thanks for interjecting about the use of Acetone and ventilation. I'll add to that, though. Be EXTREMELY careful when using fans for ventilation. Acetone WILL EAT the plastic coating on wiring. We had a garage explosion here in KC a few years ago that set fire to the house. Even though the guy was using a gigantic floor fan for ventilation, the fan shorted and vapor/particulates in the garage space blew up, according to the report from the fire department. Just be aware and be careful.
@@UncleJessy Dude, you do great stuff. I'm the son of a fireman and I've built plenty of DIY spray booths myself. As long as people understand how over-spraying works, what they are spraying, and how flammable particulates are common sense goes a LONG way. The explosion was not far from my house and on a busy street, when it happened there were lots of questions as to what caused the explosion. The same goes for woodworking dust collection. Sawdust generates a lot of static electricity so collectors and their ducts get grounded with copper wire. Keep cranking out the good stuff!
This is fantastic, but my concern is that acetone will eat the rubber seals in your airbrush. Has that been your experience? Are there any other solvents that would work that are rubber safe?
Please be aware that acetone in combination with air will build up an explosive gas. Lower explosion limit 3vol% and upper explosion limit 13 vol%... nice vid thx
Duplicolor's filler primer takes about an hour or two, but sanding it can be a real pain because some of the material tends to stay in the sand paper and clogs it up; does that happen with this method as well? (I do use spot putty to fill gaps and see it doesn't, but I haven't covered large areas)
@@UncleJessy cool, some time I'm going to try it, as I have a big tube of green spot putty from 3M which I'm pretty sure It will last a LONG time if using it just to plug holes
Nice bit of information! Airbrush question: I've never owned one and would love to get into using one for painting. The harber freight shop near me doesn't have them airbrush kits and to be fair I'm not sure I'd want to start with something that don't come with its own air compressor as I don't feel comfortable enough to run my normal one for my resin pressure pot as it's calibrated for well... my pressure pot and I really don't want to mess with that setup. What would be a good brand that youed recommend for a beginner that does comes with everything needed?
Jessy, you should wet sand that surface after hitting it with spot putty! if you do that and work up to super fine grits, you can get CRAZY good finishes.
I've been tempted to run this stuff through my airbrush, especially when working with highly detailed objects. Good to see that it actually works. I may have to get a second airbrush for this purpose.
Hmm, would it be possible to see this compared to just using filler primer? I get you might have a little more control with the finer spray but it just seems like your diying something you might be able to just get in a can. :) Thanks for the video, always very informative!
I wonder if Bondo would ever make essentially that’s a much thinner product still the glazing spot putty look like thinner to go through airbrushes for 3-D printing or other applications I’m sure there are other applications where that would be helpful but Bondo is used so heavily in the 3-D printing community that we are definitely maybe not a target demographic but definitely a sizable amount of their demographic I think a lot of people would purchase that for this purpose it’s a lot less messy if you’re not having to mix it if you don’t have to mix it then as long as you’re careful the only thing you have to clean up is the airbrush
what nozzle was this iron month printed on? This is an excellent video. I wonder if you don't use this often what other option you actually fall back to
I believe it was actually Ben Eadie that came up with the idea of thinning spot putty with acetone that darkwing dad then took to the next level and sprayed through an airbrush
the quick change harbor freight airbrush is the only airbrush that you can change colors without cleaning it. i think, for that reason alone, it is the best airbrush🤷♂️
How was the cleanup of the airbrush? I know you said you bought the cheap airbrush so you didn't care if it clogged, but were you able to clean it so it can be kept as your "I don't care" airbrush or is this close to a 1 project 1 airbrush project?
@@tiffanysandmeier4753 I’ve tested both on siphon & gravity, it did build up a tad on the siphon but I think bc mixed it on the fly and the mix seperated a bit. Unclogging it was nothing more than fully tightening the nozzle, wiping with a qtip and than good to in seconds.
hmmm I'm going to have to look into a primer/filler that I can put through my Iwata... I wonder how well it will fill with just paint? I have yet to paint any of my 3D prints but would like to airbrush them...
It definitely helped and worked... I think you got better results than typical because of the surface finish silk pla tends to have. I'm not sure the results are worth aerosolizing the stuff, plus all the mess. But it does work...interestingly.
What plastics are you using to mix it with? I know acetone will melt a lot of plastics if you choose the wrong plastic. I learn that the hard way with a Dixie cup. Lol
Hey, Jessy - Do you think you could apply that bondo-acetone mix with a disposable hand brush? I'm planning to make a 1/6 scale chevelle and could use this method for cleaning the joints of glued-together pieces.
I would imagine they are pretty similar results. One bonus of the bondo is that it seems to dry really fast compared to the primer filler which can take a while
So how different is this from that "filler primer" you can get in a rattle can? Seems like it does the same thing, but I wonder if the filler primer is better if you're printing in ABS or ASA since the print would be affected by the acetone you're using to thin the bondo...
Have you tried a larger harbor freight 20oz gravity feed paint sprayer yet? I was curious if that would be a quicker way to spray your prints. Especially larger prints or multiple prints at a time. Might also be to much spray volume.
I show how to clean your gun in my video if you’d like to check it out. Essentially just run acetone through it, followed by isopropyl alcohol if it’s a gun you are painting with
Great video but in the UK the bondo stuff is quite expensive do you know of any alternatives to the bondo putty available here in the UK at all or recommend anything please?
Have you tried using something like Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1500, It comes in different grades like sandpaper? I found out about it recently and would love to see how it compares to this method.
Hi uncle Jessy, love your channel and your guides are alway helpful. I’m in the uk and bondo is harder to come by. Can you make any other suggestions to use as a filler (dosent have to be sprayed)?
Just buy a can of primer with filler in it. Rust Oleum makes it in a rattle can. Spray it over your prints and then paint them or lightly sand them prior, its up to you.
Here is a link to the airbrush adapter that I printed in this video
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4138696
What kind of pressure does the airbrush run?
Hey UJ, have you had any issues using this technique since you did this a couple of months ago?
Love it jessy! I really appreciate the shout out. I’m glad you were able to spread the word more on this process. Obviously it may not be for everyone but it can be very effective in a finishing arsenal & as you stated proper ppe & safety everyone! Be on the look out for that DW care package. Keep those videos coming & thank you! If you guys aren’t subbed you need to be, jessy does so much for our 3D print community & he’s doing it again here!
I'm glad I got back into watching UJ's videos if only because it lead me to you. I grew up in a body shop so I can definitely appreciate the process. Time to hit up harbor freight while my Mjolnir helmet prints on my Sunlu s8 pro (cr 10 knockoff).
Your method is genius! I'll be using it ASAP. Have a good week Darkwing Dad!
@@beefknuckles thank you so much! It really is an efficient way to clean up prints! Glad you like it!
You know the best part of this video? When the adaptor was incorrect for the airbrush so you were able to just 3D print one. That, right there, is my favourite part about 3D printing. Amazing video as usual dude, always a fantastic watch 💪
15-20 mins later I had a fix haha
@@UncleJessy the 3D printed dream right there!
Hey do you have a link to the adapter? I just picked up that set from ebay about a week ago.
@@eddiebe22 it's in the top comment if you haven't seen it already.
At the same time something like that shouldn't of even been needed which shows how cheap Harbor Freight products really are.
I am very happy to see this highlighted. Darkwing Dad is extremely talented and knoweldgable in finishing. He has some insane builds on his channel..
I appreciate your take on this method and construction of the video. Firstly that you cover safety, PPE, and realistic cost.
Second that you actually titled the video appropriately and didn’t allude to some new and better method. It’s just you. Spraying some bondo.
With that, I feel like this is literally just a can of spraypaint filler primer with WAY more steps lol 😂 that you still have to sand down anyway.
It’s the dry time of 5 minutes or less that makes this superior and the control around areas of detail you don’t want to lose
Great idea! I use this stuff already along with rapid build primer to smooth my sla prints and turn them into mould masters for casting, but I never thought of spraying it. The bondo spotting putty is so "dusty/dry" when sanding, it's really nice to work with. I've tried other solutions but most of them are "gummy" when you try to sand them. Great video!
I've got another option people can try as well.
I've been using Evercoat Featherfill G2 Primer for quite some time now, works in pretty much the same way. It fills layer lines, gives a well bonded hard surface that is easily sanded and takes any paint you want to use on top of it.
I used it, or similar products for many, many years for other work projects, model building, and to help fill tooling marks from fabrication on a variety of materials. I carried it's usage over to my 3D printing obsession a handful of years ago and it's all I use now.
It makes sense that the spot putty works well, since once it's thinned it works like a high build primer/filler/surfacer when sprayed onto a 3D print.
Featherfill is expensive at $125/gallon now (used to be about $75 just a year ago), but it goes a LONG way when airbrushing especially when thinned down. It does also come in quarts if you need less.
You can also buy primer filler that basically does the same thing. It's a thick primer that fills in layer lines pretty good. I have used it many times. I often spray, sand, spray & a final sand then paint.
Yes spot putty is basically just very thick lacquer primer.
The point of this though is you lose less fine detail form the filler primer piling up in small detail areas though
Resin and UV light easiest way out there.
I've been doing this with regular injection molded plastic models for decades. learned the trick from Dave Merriman when I lived in Virginia Beach. I haven't done the airbrushing, but I have been brushing on thinned glazing putty to fill seams and gaps. I use a product called Nitro-Stan instead of Bondo glazing, but Bondo will work also.
Nice to know! Yeah I was thinking it would be easy to brush on as well
Ex autobody guy here. Don't use single stage solvent based fillers. They will continue to off-gas and the material will shrink over time. Your print lines can return weeks or months later and ruin your otherwise perfect topcoat. It's not much different than shrinking joint compound when refinishing and painting a wall.
What's a good filler in your opinion?
what do you suggest?
Do you have an alternative recommendation? Thanks!
Sooo.. don't use this but you're not going to say what to do instead?
I think what he’s saying is to use regular 2 part bondo, but the thing is that all fillers tend to shrink over time to varying degrees. But I think your applying this in such thin amounts the shrinkage will be negligible.
One thing I would do if using this process, which is what I do when using glazing compound already, is wait a day before you primer it so that it off gasses plenty before you seal it in. May not matter when you consider the tiny amount on there but I’ve not had any issues so far of layer lines showing up later, at least not yet.
I believe it was recommended to use a gravity fed airbrush for this process. You used a siphon airbrush. I wonder how different the results were between both types.
🤷♂️ for $10 I’m super happy with that cheapo brush and it’s results. 10/10 would buy again
Honestly I seen no difference in using the gravity. They definitely make ones with larger reservoirs vs siphon receptacles but you don’t want to go crazy with large amounts of acetone. Small amounts of acetone especially when exposed to UV light are extremely volatile & less dangerous. So on a safety scale anything around 35ml or less is better.
@@UncleJessy sadly, it looks like Harbor Freight discontinued that airbrush. At least I don't see it on their website.
This is really a brilliant idea. Spot putty has been a savior for me for years.
@unclejesey. I like this idea. It reminds me of how I use to smooth old plaster walls with heavy textures. I am a drywall taper of 26 years. I specialized in restoration of vintage homes. We would trowel on the first 2 coats then spay thin mud on to fill pin holes and the like. But we did not sand the first 2 coats, we would scrape the high spots. So this raises the question of why you don't use scrapers at the start to knock down the high ridges of layer lines. I believe that it would greatly reduce the filling and sanding. Cabinet makers have been doing this for centuries. It reduces the risk of making the harder wood grain to ridge up. A set of cabinet scrapers are cheap. I don't 3d print, yet. So it would be a interesting idea to try out for a video as a finishing video related to this video. 🤔
Keep up with your awesome work. You are definitely the resin printer king 🤴 👏. Cheers for now from Calgary Alberta Canada 🇨🇦 👍 😀 👏
Having a set of scrapers should be in everyone’s toolbox that is 3D printing however it’s not always neccisary to scrape your parts. The idea here is to speed up the process. This method coupled with filler primer goes a long way in speeding up and reducing sanding time.
3D printing is already slow if you have a Cartesian printer at 60-80 mm per second, a bit faster if you have a flsun super racer 200 mm per second and ever faster still if you have a Bambu labs x1 carbon 300-500 mm per second, but even then many of these parts eat a lot of time just printing, then more time tediously sanding.
With intricate detailed models, like the interior of the mask he used, it’s almost impossible to sand. Sand blasting with walnut media will reduce detail more then the method used in this video. Like with all things 3D printed it’s a trade off. Certainly another tool for the toolbox, but not for every build.
Awesome video! Since you already have the compressor setup, a good way to sand the backside might be to use a sandblaster or other abrasive media like walnut shells. Harbor Freight sells a chamber for this to recycle the media, but you can also do it open air if you don’t mind losing the abrasive after using it once. I have been wanting to try it, but have not yet been able to make the space in my house! Might be a great way to get consistent sanding quickly and to smooth out high detail areas!
2:40 You should *NOT* be touching 3D Gloop with your bare fingers! That stuff is real bad for you.
Haha yeah was peeling it off my finger for the next 30 mins after touching it
That shit is a carcinogen. You should treat it like it worse than acetone... because it is.
As usual, your video’s are awesome. Thank you! Personally, what I do is Elmer’s Wood Filler - water it down then paint it on the model. Wait for it to dry, then sand back. Layer lines disappear. For a piece that’s glued to another piece - Elmer’s Wood Filler (not watered down) applied to the gap - again, sand down, and the gap disappears (as long as you apply it properly). Thank you again for your awesomeness.
Coming from an ex-body man, that putty is virtually a thick primer. Although acetone will work, lacquer thinner would probably work better. The problem with this method is the material (putty/primer) will shrink over time, which eventually all the lines and flaws you are trying to cover will start to show through six months to a year later. To eliminate this altogether, I would recommend a catalyzed primer from an automotive paint supplier, which is typically a two-part mix. It might get a little pricey just to forewarn you, but it will probably sand much better than Bondo and give better results. JMO.
Question I found on a review for the Saturn... I'm researching and have come across your videos so I'm just asking you. Is it really necessary to buy all of this to use the Saturn S???? (the following is from the review) "Here are the items you should buy with it:- Curing & washing machine- Lots of resin (recommend water washable unless you know a plumber)- Gallons of 99% alcohol- Chemical gloves (reusable)- Spray bottles- UV protective glasses- UV flashlights / lights- Lunch trays- Slap mats for spills- A cover if you do curing next to printer- Tons of shop paper towels (not regular)- FEP replacement film- Good tweezers for remove supports- A respirator for VOCs- Good hobby knife set- Bulk paint brushes and Qtips for connecting parts- Bamboo toothbrushes for cleaning before curing- Small jars for resin painting / gluing- PTFE if you have bad FEP film- Screen protector for LCD- Extra build plates to keep printing while you clean prints- Extra resin trays for quick swapping- Funnels- Funnel paint filters for failed print resin- Adhesive handles for handling the shell carefully- Magnetic removal plates are a must (measure you build plate before ordering)- Good blow dryer- Digital calipers- USB extension cable- Ventahood or air purifier for VOC and alcohol fumes (your whole house will smell like alcohol and rubber)- Solid level surface- Climate controlled area- Sink with drain filter to catch support debris- Bright non-fluorescent lighting- A powerful computer (or patience to the moon) for splicing software- Possibly the premium versions of CAD and splicing software."
I have also heard that in some circles that people are using this technique and then during the sanding process they’re using an abrasive cabinet. Using a fine granite silica to lightly sand blast the parts.
What was the airbrush cleanup like? Is this a viable method for multiple prints?
Nail polish remover or 90% proof IPA has also been highly recommended for thinning spot putty, for working materials less harsh than acetone.
Respirator mask is still mandatory in a well ventilated area, make sure the filters are rated for chemical fumes & not just dust.
I wonder how much smoothing was from the acetone alone. Have you tried just spraying the acetone?
That spot putty is my go to filler and I have thinned it with acetone before - it makes it easier to get in to tight areas that you couldn't get if you were spreading it - but I never though about spraying it. Might have to get a cheap airbrush and give that a try!
Thanks for interjecting about the use of Acetone and ventilation. I'll add to that, though. Be EXTREMELY careful when using fans for ventilation. Acetone WILL EAT the plastic coating on wiring. We had a garage explosion here in KC a few years ago that set fire to the house. Even though the guy was using a gigantic floor fan for ventilation, the fan shorted and vapor/particulates in the garage space blew up, according to the report from the fire department.
Just be aware and be careful.
That is solid info right there. Honestly if I couldn’t have done this outside there is no way I would have done it. Plus the respirator
@@UncleJessy Dude, you do great stuff. I'm the son of a fireman and I've built plenty of DIY spray booths myself.
As long as people understand how over-spraying works, what they are spraying, and how flammable particulates are common sense goes a LONG way.
The explosion was not far from my house and on a busy street, when it happened there were lots of questions as to what caused the explosion.
The same goes for woodworking dust collection. Sawdust generates a lot of static electricity so collectors and their ducts get grounded with copper wire.
Keep cranking out the good stuff!
This is fantastic, but my concern is that acetone will eat the rubber seals in your airbrush. Has that been your experience?
Are there any other solvents that would work that are rubber safe?
Woodfiiller (waterbased) mixing with water also works. And it makes your airbrush cleanable
Also make sure you cover your normal spectacles while spraying the acetone as it will damage the polycarbonate lenses in short order
they should tell us that at work🤨
@@J0SHUAKANE I accidentally dropped my glasses in a vat full of acetone once and the lenses shrunk to the size of quarters in like two seconds.
wonder if you could use a Preval spray system..
Do you have the link for the adaptor on thingyverse or the description please?
What did you use to clean the airbrush afterwards?
This is a great idea.
I'm in the process of trying out resin as a filler. So far it's working pretty good.
I will have to give this a shot next.
Please be aware that acetone in combination with air will build up an explosive gas. Lower explosion limit 3vol% and upper explosion limit 13 vol%... nice vid thx
Duplicolor's filler primer takes about an hour or two, but sanding it can be a real pain because some of the material tends to stay in the sand paper and clogs it up; does that happen with this method as well? (I do use spot putty to fill gaps and see it doesn't, but I haven't covered large areas)
Yeah I see that as well with primer/filler this def clogs up the sandpaper but no where near as much as when I use the primer/filler
@@UncleJessy cool, some time I'm going to try it, as I have a big tube of green spot putty from 3M which I'm pretty sure It will last a LONG time if using it just to plug holes
Thank u for sharing, what did u use to clean the airbrush ?
Nice bit of information! Airbrush question: I've never owned one and would love to get into using one for painting. The harber freight shop near me doesn't have them airbrush kits and to be fair I'm not sure I'd want to start with something that don't come with its own air compressor as I don't feel comfortable enough to run my normal one for my resin pressure pot as it's calibrated for well... my pressure pot and I really don't want to mess with that setup. What would be a good brand that youed recommend for a beginner that does comes with everything needed?
is there a way to use a safer material than acetone like water or alcohol?
Great work on this one! I have avoided air brushes but man.. may need to give it a shot!
How about painting it with a cheap brush would that work to? if it does it would reduce the cleaning up time.
was it as easy to clean the airbrush as with paint? basically how healthy is the airbrush now.
Jessy, you should wet sand that surface after hitting it with spot putty!
if you do that and work up to super fine grits, you can get CRAZY good finishes.
Agreed! Just wanted to show what this could do with low effort/time
This is great for larger pieces, will definitely be using this method for my Bo shoulder, but for the mythosaur insignia, UV resin is where its at.
My tears and wet sanding with them seems to be the way I smooth mine out the most.
I've been tempted to run this stuff through my airbrush, especially when working with highly detailed objects. Good to see that it actually works. I may have to get a second airbrush for this purpose.
Hmm, would it be possible to see this compared to just using filler primer? I get you might have a little more control with the finer spray but it just seems like your diying something you might be able to just get in a can. :) Thanks for the video, always very informative!
Yeah 100% similar results to just using primer filler. Just another option that’s out there
I wonder if Bondo would ever make essentially that’s a much thinner product still the glazing spot putty look like thinner to go through airbrushes for 3-D printing or other applications I’m sure there are other applications where that would be helpful but Bondo is used so heavily in the 3-D printing community that we are definitely maybe not a target demographic but definitely a sizable amount of their demographic I think a lot of people would purchase that for this purpose it’s a lot less messy if you’re not having to mix it if you don’t have to mix it then as long as you’re careful the only thing you have to clean up is the airbrush
Haha I go into my auto shop buying all sorts of stuff
“What ya working on?” - oh I’m finishing a 3D printed helmet 😂🤣
what nozzle was this iron month printed on? This is an excellent video. I wonder if you don't use this often what other option you actually fall back to
Does this process make the plastic impermeable?
Have you also tried spray filler-primer to compare to this? It might be very similar, but has no setup work since you just buy the can.
I believe it was actually Ben Eadie that came up with the idea of thinning spot putty with acetone that darkwing dad then took to the next level and sprayed through an airbrush
I've heard of this trick on Facebook but it sounded like a bad idea since acetone usually removes paint but if it works alright then
Yeah I would imagine doing that on something finished would strip it of paint
the quick change harbor freight airbrush is the only airbrush that you can change colors without cleaning it. i think, for that reason alone, it is the best airbrush🤷♂️
That might be one of the best $10 purchases from harbor freight I’ve had in a long time
This vs using Resin?
How was the cleanup of the airbrush? I know you said you bought the cheap airbrush so you didn't care if it clogged, but were you able to clean it so it can be kept as your "I don't care" airbrush or is this close to a 1 project 1 airbrush project?
Takes a minute to clean up. I display it in my part 1
@@Darkwingdad how was build up on the end as you sprayed? Since it dries fast, I could imagine that being a problem.
@@tiffanysandmeier4753 I’ve tested both on siphon & gravity, it did build up a tad on the siphon but I think bc mixed it on the fly and the mix seperated a bit. Unclogging it was nothing more than fully tightening the nozzle, wiping with a qtip and than good to in seconds.
Jessie is this better then a rattle can filler primer?
ill have to test it out but this might be my new favorite method for finishing masks
Simple question. Doesn't water work for making bondo more useful? Would at least eliminate one toxic element.
Where is the 3d goop/gloop info? Don't remember seeing that before
hmmm I'm going to have to look into a primer/filler that I can put through my Iwata... I wonder how well it will fill with just paint? I have yet to paint any of my 3D prints but would like to airbrush them...
Where did you find mixing cups that you can safely use acetone in?
Hi Jessy! What mic and camera do you use for recording your videos?
I'm curious how it compares to spray primer filler.
It definitely helped and worked... I think you got better results than typical because of the surface finish silk pla tends to have.
I'm not sure the results are worth aerosolizing the stuff, plus all the mess.
But it does work...interestingly.
I am going to have to try this with the green 3M spot putty.
What plastics are you using to mix it with? I know acetone will melt a lot of plastics if you choose the wrong plastic. I learn that the hard way with a Dixie cup. Lol
Wonder if you could use the thinned out spot putty with a brush?
This is amazing I thought the thumbnail was clickbait!
😂🤣🤘
have you tried a metal card scraper instead of sand paper. I find it works really well on flat surfaces
How do you strengthen brittle resin prints? Thanks R
Do you prefer this method over the using resin through an aitbrush?
Always love your videos, thanks for sharing.
How do you print the rest of the failed print?
Cool!
Have you tried Snapmaker series? Would like to know if that’s good or something
Hey, Jessy - Do you think you could apply that bondo-acetone mix with a disposable hand brush? I'm planning to make a 1/6 scale chevelle and could use this method for cleaning the joints of glued-together pieces.
Cool option if I didn't have any filler primer paint handy. Bit surprised you didn't make mention about using acetone with some filaments (i.e., ABS).
what about using "spray putty (motip)" in a spray can? no cleaning and no mixing.....
I wonder how long this would last in a dropper bottle for premix
Will pour some in a jar and test it out. Wondering if it would just need to be remixed/stirred
Would you say it's better than automotive sandable filler primer paint?
id be curious to see how this goes up against some filler primer
I would imagine they are pretty similar results. One bonus of the bondo is that it seems to dry really fast compared to the primer filler which can take a while
I'm curious how this compares with aerosol automotive "high build" primer
So how different is this from that "filler primer" you can get in a rattle can? Seems like it does the same thing, but I wonder if the filler primer is better if you're printing in ABS or ASA since the print would be affected by the acetone you're using to thin the bondo...
none at all mate...we have spray putty in the UK. Pretty much the same thing lol
Hi sir from uk just wondering if you could do this with resin
Have you tried a larger harbor freight 20oz gravity feed paint sprayer yet? I was curious if that would be a quicker way to spray your prints. Especially larger prints or multiple prints at a time. Might also be to much spray volume.
What was your process for cleaning the airbrush? Did you use acetone? Great video as always!
I second this, maybe just more acetone till it comes out clear?
I show how to clean your gun in my video if you’d like to check it out. Essentially just run acetone through it, followed by isopropyl alcohol if it’s a gun you are painting with
Why was acetone your first choice if it's a health risk to breathe in?
Will you make another video showing results with some low budget alcohol?
Hi, given this is thinned with acetone, will this hurt ASA prints? Thanks!
So it's filler primer?
Great video but in the UK the bondo stuff is quite expensive do you know of any alternatives to the bondo putty available here in the UK at all or recommend anything please?
3M Acryl Green. Works exactly the same.
Would any body fillers work or only bondo spot filler specifically? Bondo is very hard and expensive to get in Australia :(
Have you tried using something like Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1500, It comes in different grades like sandpaper? I found out about it recently and would love to see how it compares to this method.
I wonder if I could use this method with the 3M AcryliGreen spot putty... Looks freaking awesome to do
It’ll work, acrylgreen is just pricey!
FANTASTIC FANTASTIC FANTASTIC, did I mention FANTASTIC.
I’ve been looking for a better way to apply bondo! This is a method I have to try out!
Could you just use a sponge brush and paint it on?
Remember to wear a mask when sanding that spot putty. That dust is nasty.
Yep!!👆
And you definitely don't want acetone on your skin. That stuff is caustic AF.
I know you mentioned respirator when spraying, but thought I would mention sanding too. That seems to be what many people forget
I'm guessing you have to be working relatively quickly. Because that acetone is gonna go off quickly when not spraying.
Thankfully those bottles are small. Yeah it dries incredibly fast
Hi uncle Jessy, love your channel and your guides are alway helpful.
I’m in the uk and bondo is harder to come by. Can you make any other suggestions to use as a filler (dosent have to be sprayed)?
Just buy a can of primer with filler in it. Rust Oleum makes it in a rattle can. Spray it over your prints and then paint them or lightly sand them prior, its up to you.
I tried it, and mostly made a giant mess and clogged constantly. 🤔🤔
Hey Jessy, Hi5's from Buffalo!! Love the vid, gonna be trying this out on my 3d printed SW thermal Detenator. Thanks for this tip.