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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 เม.ย. 2019
- The result is that a speed of less than 500 mm/s and a power greater than 40% seems to produce the darkest mark. All marking was done at 25khz one pass (crosshatch).
I did test a few marks with text after this grid to see if there was much difference by varying the frequency from 20, 25, 30, and 50 khz but it was nowhere near as severe as changing the speed and power.
Hi Jeffery. Could you help to find the right parameters to mark black acrylic?
Just found this video as I'm trying to learn how to use EZCad2 as a beginner. Noticed it's 3 years old. 😂 How far have you advanced since you made this? Thank you for these videos. You seem to be one of the few people out there who has released anything helpful.
Nice video! I just got a Gweike G2 and am testing it out. At first the laser wouldn't shut off and kept marking even when the marking had ended. I called their tech support and it appears to be their cable. If you unplug the cable and reverse it, it fixes the issue.
My question is. Have you tried marking computer chassis metal (electrogalvanized steel)? When I try to mark text on it it works fine, but when I attempt images, it doesn't mark at all.
I contacted their tech support and they just tell me to try different materials, which doesn't help if my goal is to mark that type of material.
Anyways, loved to see different settings effects on aluminum. Thank you!
Hi nice video,
is it possible to get your test file from you
Hello. I saw your videos on YT regarding the "test grid" for fiber laser. I have such a problem.. I downloaded a file from "power&speed test grid" which is used by many people on YT. However, after opening the test file in EzCad2, each of the squares has the same parameters and each should have a different one. What am I doing wrong? How to import such a file so that it loads immediately with ready-made settings for individual squares?
I tried to make my own "test grid" but without success. If I change the parameters in the second square, it also changes in the first one.
Please help me solve this problem. I've been trying to solve this problem for two days now. Thank you in advance.
Hi @JefferyJ... What is the distance to be maintained between work piece and laser source?
It varies depending on what lens you have installed. You can ask your laser manufacturer or cycle the head up and down while marking to approximate the focal point.
Can you add this file to the page so we can use it as well? That would rock!!
Check the description to this video: th-cam.com/video/gAhNCu6hHME/w-d-xo.html
Not bad! I am thinking of purchasing a 50w fiber laser and would love to be able to achieve dark marks on clear anodised 6 series aluminium. I'm guessing the anodising would have burned off at the higher power and lower speeds where the darkest marks are, any idea how different the result would be through anodising?
On clear anodizing, the mark will be basically the same as bare aluminum.
th-cam.com/video/ExXHI-whn8U/w-d-xo.html
I have a chinese laser also but my software build looks slightly different. Where did you download your software from? I would like to see if it will run on my laser. Thanks for any help!
It's EzCad 2.14. It should be downloadable if you search it.
Hi Jeffrey; which type of Aluminium are you using there ; (especially with the milled surface) ?
It's 6061, not anodized.
You can get dark mark on Aluminium if you increase the overlap of the laser spots. Decrease Line Space from 0.05 to 0.005 or less. Increase the Frequency and power. For example: the spot diameter is 0.04mm, frequency is 100khz. Then you use a speed of 2000mm/s to overlap 50%.
Is this mopa ?
@@xaunemninobaun my Laser is a JPT Mopa M7 with 100 Watt
I try lasering black text and logos on alluminium. I tried several settings with no luck, I only get grey text as color . Even with 500 mm speed and 40% power
@zomgthisisawesomelol The black is not soot. Why would you post an answer to a question when you know nothing about the topic? The key to getting a dark marking is high power and slow speed. Aluminum never reaches a true black, but brass, copper, and stainless will. The black coloration, caused by high heat, will not rub off or wash off.
@@AndTheCorrectAnswerIs a lot of it washes off for me… very hard to get a dark mark…
For aluminum engrave its still white color
Could you send me this file to test my laser machine please..?
th-cam.com/video/gAhNCu6hHME/w-d-xo.html
Super
You’ve probably worked this out already, but if you go File>System Parameters>Workspace you can customise the outline box to match the laser/lens/jig area so that you’re not always cutting outside the lines :)
Thanks for the tip!
Do you have any copper that you can make a video engraving?
@@katierose3517 I probably do, I'll give it a shot this week.
@@katierose3517 I uploaded a video marking this same grid on copper.
30w JPT with 70mm lens here. No way can I get your results with a single pass, try as I may. 90% 100mm/s 20 passes is what it takes me! Even then, I can scratch a lot of it off with my fingernail 😞