The way to sharpen fuji raw files is to go crazy on the detail slider, over 80, then be very careful with the top slider. Then mask the hell out of it.
Krekkertje I read that too an it's generally worked for me. Starting point is Amount to 25, Detail to 75, masking totally depends on the image but usually between 20 and 60. I went back and reprocessed photos (compared to the first time with heavy Amount and standard Detail) and was blown away by the difference!
THANK YOU! Been trying to find a sensible way to sharpen my fuji x images in Lightroom and this is it. Making the preset for all my fuji x files and future imports right now.
We use Capture One just for editing and then into Adobe Camera Raw, only to correct CA if need be and exposure and then into PS where sharpening is applied and voila no worms.
I use Adobe Raw and it has a masking function that allows me to sharpen according to the amount I mask. I find that quite useful for general sharpening of the in-focus objects.
Hi Omar, I enjoy your videos tremendously. For sharpening in LR, I noticed that the "Amount" and "Detail" sliders tend to amplify one another. I get the best results by starting with "Detail" at 0, increase "Amount" (usually between 40 and 100), then add a tiny bit on "Detail" (usually between 1 and 5). I hope this helps.
Totally Agree!! Other than being able to change things after the fact, i don't get this whole "RAW" thing.. Spending half an hour to get the raw file to look as good as the JPEG doesn't make sense to me. The JPEGs out of my xt 1 are amazing. It reminds me of studio musicians spending hours on digital equipment to try to duplicate that "analog" sound..Just use the analog...just use the JPEG..I'm sure there are plenty of things that i'm not aware of regarding Raw, but overall and for"general use" JPEG seems great to me
Ok, I shot in both RAW & JPG for a week, editing only the JPG's to see if I noticed any major difference in my editing/workflow. I shoot primarily with x100f and X-Pro2. I think the biggest thing for me came down to the increased temperature range you get with RAW vs JPG. I can really loose myself in those settings and they are just a bit to limited for me in JPG. But thanks cause now I see worms every single time! ;-) p.s. What budget is larger, your super hero statues or your camera gear? love yer videos!
I always put the Detail slider to 0 in Lr. I think it is the Detail slider that causes the worms. People don't get the worm problem in PS because PS doesn't have the Detail slider.
For I'm working a lot with the NIK Collection anyway I use the NIK RAW Sharpener as a level in Photoshop before I do the rest of my editing there. To keep my PSDs small I delete the sharpening level later on in my workflow.
Are you saying in the first b&w picture that the worms are present in the sooc Fuji jpeg? I thought it was just a lightroom problem, it’s a bit off putting if the camera jpegs also have this problem.
Hope the trip is going well! I've used Lightroom classic for editing and did have a few issues when I switched to Fuji with sharpening. Just recently I switched to Lightroom CC and have found (by my eye) that the sharpening doesn't get those awful WORMS. I was wondering if you've ever tried to edit in the new Lightroom. Also, you can now sync all presets with your CC membership and get your presets on your phone now for editing on the go. Figured I would throw this out there, love your stuff and thanks for being a big part of my photo knowledge!
Thank you SO MUCH for this video! I'm so tired of people insisting that there is no longer an issue with Fuji files in Lightroom when I can clearly see with my own eyes that there IS an issue, and it's bad! Adobe PLZ FIX THIS!
@Omar Gonzalez Photography I think I'ev found a solution for Adobe Lr users with fuji-film cameras. There is option in Settings called "Proces Version" when I switched back to "Version 1" so called worms no longer exist when I use sharpening function i LR.
After processing RAW files I have taken to turning off sharpening in LR, taking the image to NIK Software "Output Sharpener" often using just the automatic setting. Seems to work pretty well.
Ciao Omar. My understanding is that the sharpen panel in Lightroom is a PRE-sharpening tool used to recover details lost after applying noise reduction, and in general to give some sharpness to the RAW files. What you see in the Developer module, is not the final result. You only get the final result once you export the file, and in doing so you decide how much sharpness you want to apply (low, standard or high) in the "Output Sharpening" dialog box. With that said, and with the assumption that you wouldn't re-sharpen a camera JPEG file through Lightroom, I think that the correct comparison would be between a straight out of camera JPEG file and a RAW file EXPORTED to JPEG file out of Lightroom. Thoughts? Ciao Ciao
Software have a tendency to be upgraded and improved over time. E.g. Modern LIghtroom is mush better at demosaicing than say LR version 3 at least on Nikon files (had no fujifilm back then). With JPEG you lock the raw data from your sensor to the technology at the time when the picture was made.. Also, the need for sharpening in a print depends on the print size
Currently my best solution is to use iridient x-transformer first and then import to Lightroom, since I don’t want to spend more on other softwares, the x transformer is the best cheap solution. Depends on what I shoot, sometimes I’ll only using my iPad, with Lightroom and using Affinity photo to do sharpening.
Irident X Transformer before LR..then edit away...finishing with a print most often of the best of that series. I have On1, Luminar and it's HDR brother...never understood all the people who hate the monthly Adobe bill ( have pay the 50 bucks a month as I have use of their other products such as Dreamweaver and Premiere)...if you buy On1 or Luminar (which I bet the price goes up next year as their DAM module becomes part of the show) you pay between 80 and 120 bucks yearly...if you own LR/PS programs it's cost roughly 120 per year...maybe your the type to buy a version say 2018.5 and then don't update it (after that first year) for two or three years...then I could see that your saving money...but once again you don't get a Print module or PS which is arguably the most powerful tool for a photographer. But that is what makes us great everyone can make their own decisions on what they need to get the job done.
Hey Omar Loving your series since I jumped the Canon ship and moved to Fuji X. So far I have been using the High Pass filter in Photoshop for sharpening (with that layer set to Overlay blending mode) with good results but feel like I should check out Luminar? Keep up the good work!
the fact that you shoot mainly .jpeg def gives alot of credit to Fuji- very interesting. Based on this are you then using the in-camera film simulation modes (Sepia, BW, etc) to edit these out or do you do that in LR/PS?
Yes you've learned unsharp mask long time ago. with all respect It's an outdated tool. Even in adobe channel they say it. Use smart sharpening, It's far better. It has remove noise filter slider which work better than "reduce noise filter"
Thanks for the PS work around! I have been using Alien Skins Exposure 3 with very good results. I have also dabbled with Affinity (on my iPad,) and capture One. But I have to say that trying out the FujiFilm X Raw Studio to convert RAF files gives the best results I have been able to get from my X-E3, X-T2, and X-Pro2! It's not fast but the results are markedly better than anything I have gotten with Lightroom, PS, or anything else I have tried. (Lightroom stinks!)
I have moved totally away from Adobe to Capture One - they do a really good deal for Fuji users and which is great for raw conversion. I also use affinity photo which I find a brilliant all round photo editor. Nine times out of 10, I find the JPEGs straight from camera absolutely fine.
Agree 100% i bought an xe3 and actually was really bummed with it. I tried asking on some Fuji X forums but was torn to pieces by the cult for asking such a sensitive question as how best to process the files. Since going to Capture One though it is exactly like you say like owning a new camera. Now i just need to learn how to make my own preset.
Hi, first thanks for your videos, they teach a lot and they are very good. I am about to buy a xt20 or xt2 but lately I have heard that they have had problems in the sensors taking many photographers to repentance since the photos are left with certain burned pixels, what opinion can you give me? Because I really like them in image quality and in versatility because of the size.
I shoot weddings with two XT2's and have since it came out. I don't experience that. Also ... all sensors will have pixels that are dead or stuck at some point eventually. Out of the 24 million pixels on the XT2 ... you think if one or two is stuck or broken anyone notices? 99.9% of the time, no.
Adam Woodhouse thanks, I just wanted to know if you know about that problem to know if it was more common, but I see that It does not and I appreciate the information , I will buy an xt2
Nice tuturial , learned something, yeah when your photo comes out almost perfect , you really dont have to edit them too much which is why i bought a fuji camera. I have a fuji camera - just getting the hang of using it, using a X-t1 with Fujinon XF 23mm F1.4 R lens ( who knows what lens to buy) but the 56mm f/ 1.2 looks promising. You cant just have one lens. but the 23mm does take nice photos outside with the right light. Thank you for the tutorial
I'm just convinced that the demoasicing algorithms used in LR aren't that great, and that PS is just a better tool overall. Because you can get the "worms" issue with most images, even camera that use different sensors than the X-Trans (which I thought was the primary reason the worms were an issue, but was able to replicate the same result with my Nikon files too). I think now I may just go back to using PS and Bridge as my workflow (Bridge for my "library" needs and PS for editing). LR is good for people who want one program that can do 90% of the work (manage their library and editing) but for me, I don't mind having to use the Bridge+PS workfliw if it does produce better results overall (for example, the LR spot removal tool even in 2021 is still horrible compared to the tools you have in PS).
I've been going over and researching sharpening .raf files because like you, the worms drive me crazy! After a whole lotta messing around, I've found that setting sharpening to 35-40, radius 1, detail 15-20, and mask 50-60, gives me the best results. Almost just as good as the jpg sharpness and no worms! Try it out and let me know what you think!
I have watched several Photoshop sharpening videos from TH-cam and most of them are using values around 150-1-1. If I order a print or upload to internet, I use Photoshop to sharpen the photo instead of Lightroom. In the other hand, I'm, pretty sure that if you upload photo to social media (Instagram, Facebook), no one will notice if photo have been sharpened or not, sad.
Love your videos in general. Never used any post software. This put me off. You have clearly been using various brands of post software for years. Found you jumped all over the place from one software programme to another. Believe there may be other Fuji users out there who would love a video demonstrating the slow and methodical introduction to one or more of the more Fuji friendly software programmes e.g. Capture One.
Thanks that is very useful. I only use Lightroom but I’ll have to use photoshop more since it is part of the sub. My biggest problem is learning something and then I won’t touch photoshop for 2-3 months and can’t remember what I was doing before. 🙄
I, too, see worms when I'm printing landscapes from my X-T2, using LR on a RAW file. I'm going to give the PS unsharp mask a try, but it's just a bit crazy-making that Adobe makes you roundtrip into PS to accomplish a basic task like sharpening. I wish LR itself did a better job. I need to shoot RAW because with landscapes I want the best shadow detail recovery. Jpegs cause the loss of a lot of detail in highlights and shadows. Jpegs are fine for other types of photography but in landscapes, where the dynamic range is often very wide, jpegs are not as useful. Thanks for all the good stuff!
I agree! When I moved to Fuji from Nikon, it felt as though LR considered Fuji the red-headed step child... Even their latest algorithms aren't much better.
Hi Omar. I have Lightroom defaults at zero sharpening more cause Im lazy and can't be bothered having to zero the sliders! I use Iridient in Lightroom to convert the xtrans files to dng. do all the basic edits then go into Photoshop same as you. Actually any of photoshops sharping tools are ok but the unsharp mask is probably the best for most except landscapes then I use HighPass. Any noise I mask out in photoshop. Funnily enough if you try to use the noise reduction in Lightroom after a sharpen in photoshop you wreck the image! Not sure why (Scottish, wee brain, no patience) I also have Nik by dxo but haven't learned to use it yet! With my stock stuff I just shoot jpg as most of the time Fuji does a great job audit takes less time Great volgs as always Jim
JPG is basically blurred and has too much noise reduction. And you've picked the best possible scenario, try the same with some green foliage, Fuji simply looks terrible.
I actually switched to Luminar after getting my Fuji X-T2 mainly because of sharpening. Since then have found lots of other great features. You really should spend more time with it. It's also nice that you can do masking and layering,
Or rawtherapee or Darktable (my favorite) which are both amazing with Fuji files (especially RawTherapee even though Darktable is the best program). Plus they're fuckin free in more ways than 1, with noble devs, and you can use film sims from here blog.sowerby.me/fuji-film-simulation-profiles/
You mean add irident into the work flow and problem solved? So to lose the weight and jump to this system I need to add a workflow step to deal with the fine details?
I do professional work and have for years. LR is fine with Fuji. My pro work is RAW for the post edit latitude, my personal work is almost always JPG. If shooting RAW you need to sharpen the RAW files differently than you did with your previous system. Problem is many people either sharpen their Fuji file the way they did on their old camera and then complain about the results, or the pixel-peep the crap out of their image and then complain. Each system has its quirks and we need to learn those quirks and adopt to them. And don't be a pixel peeper.
Could you do a dedicated video on your preferences for jpeg film simulation custom settings on fuji systems?
The way to sharpen fuji raw files is to go crazy on the detail slider, over 80, then be very careful with the top slider. Then mask the hell out of it.
Krekkertje I read that too an it's generally worked for me. Starting point is Amount to 25, Detail to 75, masking totally depends on the image but usually between 20 and 60. I went back and reprocessed photos (compared to the first time with heavy Amount and standard Detail) and was blown away by the difference!
THANK YOU! Been trying to find a sensible way to sharpen my fuji x images in Lightroom and this is it. Making the preset for all my fuji x files and future imports right now.
I use Luminar 2018.5 and don't mess with Lightroom anymore. I'm using an X-T2 and have no problem with my Raw or Jpeg files.
We use Capture One just for editing and then into Adobe Camera Raw, only to correct CA if need be and exposure and then into PS where sharpening is applied and voila no worms.
I use Adobe Raw and it has a masking function that allows me to sharpen according to the amount I mask. I find that quite useful for general sharpening of the in-focus objects.
Hi Omar, I enjoy your videos tremendously. For sharpening in LR, I noticed that the "Amount" and "Detail" sliders tend to amplify one another. I get the best results by starting with "Detail" at 0, increase "Amount" (usually between 40 and 100), then add a tiny bit on "Detail" (usually between 1 and 5). I hope this helps.
Totally Agree!! Other than being able to change things after the fact, i don't get this whole "RAW" thing..
Spending half an hour to get the raw file to look as good as the JPEG doesn't make sense to me. The JPEGs out of my xt 1 are amazing. It reminds me of studio musicians spending hours on digital equipment to try to duplicate that "analog" sound..Just use the analog...just use the JPEG..I'm sure there are plenty of things that i'm not aware of regarding Raw, but overall and for"general use" JPEG seems great to me
Ok, I shot in both RAW & JPG for a week, editing only the JPG's to see if I noticed any major difference in my editing/workflow. I shoot primarily with x100f and X-Pro2.
I think the biggest thing for me came down to the increased temperature range you get with RAW vs JPG. I can really loose myself in those settings and they are just a bit to limited for me in JPG. But thanks cause now I see worms every single time! ;-)
p.s. What budget is larger, your super hero statues or your camera gear? love yer videos!
I always put the Detail slider to 0 in Lr. I think it is the Detail slider that causes the worms. People don't get the worm problem in PS because PS doesn't have the Detail slider.
For I'm working a lot with the NIK Collection anyway I use the NIK RAW Sharpener as a level in Photoshop before I do the rest of my editing there. To keep my PSDs small I delete the sharpening level later on in my workflow.
What are your Fuji setting beside +1 for sharpening JP'sg. Or is that all you do for all simulation?
Juan Lopez Thanks, I was going to ask the same thing.
Juan Lopez I think he just set it up in q menu, and adjust it while shooting.
Hey, I wanted to ask the same. Thanks for your awesome videos, Omar, maybe you can make one about your custom settings C1-7?
In camera settings for JPG. Sharpening +1; Noise Reduction -2.
Pretty sure he did that in the "Fuji X-T20 Custom Function for Higher Shutter Speed" video.
Are you saying in the first b&w picture that the worms are present in the sooc Fuji jpeg? I thought it was just a lightroom problem, it’s a bit off putting if the camera jpegs also have this problem.
Hope the trip is going well! I've used Lightroom classic for editing and did have a few issues when I switched to Fuji with sharpening. Just recently I switched to Lightroom CC and have found (by my eye) that the sharpening doesn't get those awful WORMS. I was wondering if you've ever tried to edit in the new Lightroom. Also, you can now sync all presets with your CC membership and get your presets on your phone now for editing on the go. Figured I would throw this out there, love your stuff and thanks for being a big part of my photo knowledge!
Thank you SO MUCH for this video! I'm so tired of people insisting that there is no longer an issue with Fuji files in Lightroom when I can clearly see with my own eyes that there IS an issue, and it's bad! Adobe PLZ FIX THIS!
@Omar Gonzalez Photography I think I'ev found a solution for Adobe Lr users with fuji-film cameras. There is option in Settings called "Proces Version" when I switched back to "Version 1" so called worms no longer exist when I use sharpening function i LR.
For Raw try the following:
Make Light & Color adjustments.
Sharpness - 7-15
Radius 1-1.5
Detail 50-75
Masking 10
Tweak from there.
Se olvidó decir en la aplicación CAMERA REMOTE de Fujifilm.
After processing RAW files I have taken to turning off sharpening in LR, taking the image to NIK Software "Output Sharpener" often using just the automatic setting. Seems to work pretty well.
Sounds interesting, is that only a way of exporting thr file from ligbtroom, or does it stay in lightroom after nik sharpening?
Ciao Omar. My understanding is that the sharpen panel in Lightroom is a PRE-sharpening tool used to recover details lost after applying noise reduction, and in general to give some sharpness to the RAW files. What you see in the Developer module, is not the final result. You only get the final result once you export the file, and in doing so you decide how much sharpness you want to apply (low, standard or high) in the "Output Sharpening" dialog box. With that said, and with the assumption that you wouldn't re-sharpen a camera JPEG file through Lightroom, I think that the correct comparison would be between a straight out of camera JPEG file and a RAW file EXPORTED to JPEG file out of Lightroom. Thoughts? Ciao Ciao
Emiliano Re I’ll check that out for sure. Interesting
I don´t find this true with the new lightroom CC
What's the advantage of raw if the jpegs look much better?
morellb The big ones are fixing white balance, skin tones, and recovering details from highlights and shadows. Also you can add yo flavah. 😉
Software have a tendency to be upgraded and improved over time. E.g. Modern LIghtroom is mush better at demosaicing than say LR version 3 at least on Nikon files (had no fujifilm back then). With JPEG you lock the raw data from your sensor to the technology at the time when the picture was made.. Also, the need for sharpening in a print depends on the print size
I love how I was looking for a software to edit my pictures and you created this video ! thank you
You are not using the newest lightroom. In the latest version they moved the profiles tab to the top! Otherwise, great video mate!
"Go crazy...422".. Made me chuckle... Nice one Omar..
Currently my best solution is to use iridient x-transformer first and then import to Lightroom, since I don’t want to spend more on other softwares, the x transformer is the best cheap solution. Depends on what I shoot, sometimes I’ll only using my iPad, with Lightroom and using Affinity photo to do sharpening.
Irident X Transformer before LR..then edit away...finishing with a print most often of the best of that series. I have On1, Luminar and it's HDR brother...never understood all the people who hate the monthly Adobe bill ( have pay the 50 bucks a month as I have use of their other products such as Dreamweaver and Premiere)...if you buy On1 or Luminar (which I bet the price goes up next year as their DAM module becomes part of the show) you pay between 80 and 120 bucks yearly...if you own LR/PS programs it's cost roughly 120 per year...maybe your the type to buy a version say 2018.5 and then don't update it (after that first year) for two or three years...then I could see that your saving money...but once again you don't get a Print module or PS which is arguably the most powerful tool for a photographer. But that is what makes us great everyone can make their own decisions on what they need to get the job done.
Why can't i find the film simulations ? I have the latest version
have been waiting so long for this video! Thanks Omar, great one and so useful
Great job yet again, Omar. Thanks.
Hey Omar Loving your series since I jumped the Canon ship and moved to Fuji X. So far I have been using the High Pass filter in Photoshop for sharpening (with that layer set to Overlay blending mode) with good results but feel like I should check out Luminar? Keep up the good work!
the fact that you shoot mainly .jpeg def gives alot of credit to Fuji- very interesting. Based on this are you then using the in-camera film simulation modes (Sepia, BW, etc) to edit these out or do you do that in LR/PS?
tony almeda yes use in cam sim but sometimes tweak like the cityscape
Thanks - maybe will bump into you one day in Hoboken or Downtown JC- Keep on shooting- great channel.
Great tutorial, Omar. Got my X-T20 two says ago. Steep learning curve!
For me its Affinity Photo that sharpens without the worms and is just as good as Photoshop and with no monthly bills.
Pir8Pete99 Those damn monthly bills!! 😫
Thanks for the tip!!
And its iPad version is also good enough when travel and don’t want to bring a laptop. Add a high pass filter always work for me.
Yes you've learned unsharp mask long time ago. with all respect It's an outdated tool. Even in adobe channel they say it. Use smart sharpening, It's far better. It has remove noise filter slider which work better than "reduce noise filter"
But I myself am an outdated Tool. 😂 will try it out thanks
I shoot landscapes in raw and jpeg everything else...the jpegs are awesome. Sharpen raw with iridient but it slows workflow massively on my pc.
I do -2 on raw +2 on jpeg tried printing it to an elcheapo paper looks good! XD
Thanks for the PS work around! I have been using Alien Skins Exposure 3 with very good results. I have also dabbled with Affinity (on my iPad,) and capture One. But I have to say that trying out the FujiFilm X Raw Studio to convert RAF files gives the best results I have been able to get from my X-E3, X-T2, and X-Pro2! It's not fast but the results are markedly better than anything I have gotten with Lightroom, PS, or anything else I have tried. (Lightroom stinks!)
Melvin Hughes awesome! Thanks for chiming in.
Alien exposure. Interesting
And of course Nik Software provide another two great sharpening tools in their toolbox.
Are you using it as a developing tool in LR or as the Nik plug-in in PS? I have it but find myself mostly using the Viveza tools.
I have moved totally away from Adobe to Capture One - they do a really good deal for Fuji users and which is great for raw conversion. I also use affinity photo which I find a brilliant all round photo editor. Nine times out of 10, I find the JPEGs straight from camera absolutely fine.
I wish I would of know you were in D.C. would of loved to shoot with you and share and receive some knowledge.
Capture one for Fuji RAW files!!! It's like owning a complete new camera when you change from LR to Capture one.
Agree 100% i bought an xe3 and actually was really bummed with it. I tried asking on some Fuji X forums but was torn to pieces by the cult for asking such a sensitive question as how best to process the files. Since going to Capture One though it is exactly like you say like owning a new camera. Now i just need to learn how to make my own preset.
Hi, first thanks for your videos, they teach a lot and they are very good. I am about to buy a xt20 or xt2 but lately I have heard that they have had problems in the sensors taking many photographers to repentance since the photos are left with certain burned pixels, what opinion can you give me? Because I really like them in image quality and in versatility because of the size.
Jose Sanchez I haven’t had any burned pixels
I shoot weddings with two XT2's and have since it came out. I don't experience that. Also ... all sensors will have pixels that are dead or stuck at some point eventually. Out of the 24 million pixels on the XT2 ... you think if one or two is stuck or broken anyone notices? 99.9% of the time, no.
Adam Woodhouse thanks, I just wanted to know if you know about that problem to know if it was more common, but I see that It does not and I appreciate the information , I will buy an xt2
Amount = 150, Radius = 1.0, Detail = 0, Masking to taste. You can fine tune by adding to the radius. Thanks for the videos :)
Hola Omar. Nadie me ha podido explicar, porque Fuji no ha logrado un editor para imágenes RAW, igual que el que tiene SONY hace muchos años.
Great video as always. RAF in Lightroom is just a nightmare.
Just by reading your title, i hit like button. Absolutely intersting topic
Nice tuturial , learned something, yeah when your photo comes out almost perfect , you really dont have to edit them too much which is why i bought a fuji camera. I have a fuji camera - just getting the hang of using it, using a X-t1 with Fujinon XF 23mm F1.4 R lens ( who knows what lens to buy) but the 56mm f/ 1.2 looks promising. You cant just have one lens. but the 23mm does take nice photos outside with the right light. Thank you for the tutorial
Adding some contrast helps
I'm just convinced that the demoasicing algorithms used in LR aren't that great, and that PS is just a better tool overall. Because you can get the "worms" issue with most images, even camera that use different sensors than the X-Trans (which I thought was the primary reason the worms were an issue, but was able to replicate the same result with my Nikon files too). I think now I may just go back to using PS and Bridge as my workflow (Bridge for my "library" needs and PS for editing). LR is good for people who want one program that can do 90% of the work (manage their library and editing) but for me, I don't mind having to use the Bridge+PS workfliw if it does produce better results overall (for example, the LR spot removal tool even in 2021 is still horrible compared to the tools you have in PS).
I've been going over and researching sharpening .raf files because like you, the worms drive me crazy! After a whole lotta messing around, I've found that setting sharpening to 35-40, radius 1, detail 15-20, and mask 50-60, gives me the best results. Almost just as good as the jpg sharpness and no worms! Try it out and let me know what you think!
Stan Cho Cool! Will do. Thanks for adding to the conversation. Cheers!
Thanks, Stan! I am going to try this and see how it works for me.
Melvin Hughes Cool. It’s not going to be as good as the jpg but it gets pretty close. Let me know how it goes!
Gracias! Thanks!! Love the way you explains things on your videos man!! Cool!
LR worms are not limited to Fuji files. Happens with Sony and Nikon too. Have not tried Canon yet.
I have watched several Photoshop sharpening videos from TH-cam and most of them are using values around 150-1-1. If I order a print or upload to internet, I use Photoshop to sharpen the photo instead of Lightroom. In the other hand, I'm, pretty sure that if you upload photo to social media (Instagram, Facebook), no one will notice if photo have been sharpened or not, sad.
i saw day and night difference between capture one and iridient developer. adobe raw for fuji sucks :(
Love your videos in general.
Never used any post software. This put me off. You have clearly been using various brands of post software for years.
Found you jumped all over the place from one software programme to another.
Believe there may be other Fuji users out there who would love a video demonstrating the slow and methodical introduction to one or more of the more Fuji friendly software programmes e.g. Capture One.
How could i use photoshop efficently/methodically to sharpen all my images from lightroom, isnt that gonna be a nightmare?
Yes
you made me laugh with "this was my first experience with the wooorrrrms"
Thanks that is very useful. I only use Lightroom but I’ll have to use photoshop more since it is part of the sub. My biggest problem is learning something and then I won’t touch photoshop for 2-3 months and can’t remember what I was doing before. 🙄
Exactly so. Remembering the PS non-intuitive interface for occasional use is tough.
It Worms now an official photography term lol? If not it should be!!
O.M.A.R.!!!! You need to try Capture One!!!!! 😱
SeanKimStyle 😂
I thought that 11:1 looked pretty good on those little flags!
Capture one is the best for sure.
Hey Omar, try NIK Software. The Plugin from Google. It works also realy good
I, too, see worms when I'm printing landscapes from my X-T2, using LR on a RAW file. I'm going to give the PS unsharp mask a try, but it's just a bit crazy-making that Adobe makes you roundtrip into PS to accomplish a basic task like sharpening. I wish LR itself did a better job.
I need to shoot RAW because with landscapes I want the best shadow detail recovery. Jpegs cause the loss of a lot of detail in highlights and shadows. Jpegs are fine for other types of photography but in landscapes, where the dynamic range is often very wide, jpegs are not as useful. Thanks for all the good stuff!
I agree! When I moved to Fuji from Nikon, it felt as though LR considered Fuji the red-headed step child... Even their latest algorithms aren't much better.
Try the IRIDIENT X TRANSFORMER PLUGIN for Lightroom
I can't stop thinking of The Lost Boys chinese food scene. "hahaha woooooorrrrrms"
Suzanne Elkin haha. The Lo mein scene.
Hi Omar. I have Lightroom defaults at zero sharpening more cause Im lazy and can't be bothered having to zero the sliders!
I use Iridient in Lightroom to convert the xtrans files to dng. do all the basic edits then go into Photoshop same as you.
Actually any of photoshops sharping tools are ok but the unsharp mask is probably the best for most except landscapes then I use HighPass. Any noise I mask out in photoshop. Funnily enough if you try to use the noise reduction in Lightroom after a sharpen in photoshop you wreck the image! Not sure why (Scottish, wee brain, no patience) I also have Nik by dxo but haven't learned to use it yet! With my stock stuff I just shoot jpg as most of the time Fuji does a great job audit takes less time
Great volgs as always
Jim
JPG is basically blurred and has too much noise reduction. And you've picked the best possible scenario, try the same with some green foliage, Fuji simply looks terrible.
what the hell i was just looking for information on this topic ! great timing
Falker I knew it!! Lol
please dont forget Silkypix for Fuji,...
I actually switched to Luminar after getting my Fuji X-T2 mainly because of sharpening. Since then have found lots of other great features. You really should spend more time with it. It's also nice that you can do masking and layering,
Ric yes! Learning it slowly. Really nice interface.
Once Luminar has a DAM I think many will take it quite seriously.
Or rawtherapee or Darktable (my favorite) which are both amazing with Fuji files (especially RawTherapee even though Darktable is the best program). Plus they're fuckin free in more ways than 1, with noble devs, and you can use film sims from here blog.sowerby.me/fuji-film-simulation-profiles/
Isaac Ah-Loe never heard of this!!! Thanks.
im gonna print a t-shirt that says: i shoot jpeg @excellentshotindeed has spoken... 🤙
Why this obsession with sharpness? I never sharpen my images too much...
This is why RAW is permanently banned on my X100F. Why spoil Fuji's superb jpeg engine?
As someone who is looking to jump to fuji all this talk on worms seems to ruin the system. How big of a deal is this?
Fred Reitz not a big deal. If you use Lightroom convert raw file using Iridient and prices as normal or use Luminar or Capture 1.
You mean add irident into the work flow and problem solved? So to lose the weight and jump to this system I need to add a workflow step to deal with the fine details?
I have both Lightroom and ON1. Sharpening is not a big deal in LR unless you like to go crazy with it. Just pull your mask up to 80-90 and it’s fine.
I do professional work and have for years. LR is fine with Fuji. My pro work is RAW for the post edit latitude, my personal work is almost always JPG. If shooting RAW you need to sharpen the RAW files differently than you did with your previous system. Problem is many people either sharpen their Fuji file the way they did on their old camera and then complain about the results, or the pixel-peep the crap out of their image and then complain. Each system has its quirks and we need to learn those quirks and adopt to them. And don't be a pixel peeper.
Adam Woodhouse would you say you if sharpening correctly that you don’t see issues even when pixel peeping
Nice video but the Spirit of St Louis was not the first plane to fly the Atlantic non stop.
Ian You’re right ! Thanks
Lmao you’re funny AF
PLEASE CHECK YOUR iMESSAGES!!!!