If you liked this video I made a follow up video for sharpening and adding noise reduction to high iso xt3 files th-cam.com/video/9Jn9nrz874I/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the feedback and comment Darren. There’s a lot of negative buzz about things being broken on Fuji, but for most of these “issues” they can all be overcome or worked around. Let me know if you have any ideas for future video topics.
Thanks! Some would rather just get the settings up front. But i personally want to know why things are done, So I made a video (and I make all my videos) In that manner.
This is the most comprehensive video I have seen regarding Fujifilm sharpening. Thank you very much for putting this video together it is an outstanding training tool. 👍
AGREED! Best discussion about this concept EVER. And that includes angry photographer's recent video too. Quite the compliment because he generally really knows his stuff. I'm shooting with XT2's for now with all primes. THANK YOU REGGIE!
Great job with this video. Your conclusion contradicts what many accept as convention wisdom with RAF files in Lr (low amount, high detail) but one can't argue with the results. The way you presented everything was clear and thorough; and your inclusion of the Nikon RAW file was quite interesting.
Timothy Linn yup it does contradict so I was scared to put this video out there, but using logic it just made more sense to 0 out the detail slider. Thanks for the kind words!
So the slider in question was designed to recover something in other files that's not lost in Fuji files. That's the gist I got from the first half of the video. Seems like a good workflow solution is create and apply a develop setting when importing to LR. A setting where the slider is set to 0. I tried this on a portrait I'm currently working on and it does make a huge difference. Exported 2 files to PS, one with slider on, the other off. Noticed a difference straight away because it was always more noticeable when I exported to PS. Great video and explanation.
This was so informative! I couldn't really understand what people were so upset about regarding fuji sharpening in Lightroom, I know I get worm effects when I OVER-sharpen but I expect you get that with many cameras with the bayer sensor (perhaps not as bad). But this explanation and the helpful breakdown in the description has helped me understand how each parameter affects fuji files and when to use which setting for what type of photo. Cheers!!
Excellent tutorial. I shoot mostly landscapes and my default sharpening settings are: 35 0.5 75 0. This gives excellent results with no worms with my x-pro2 files.
Awesome! Glad you found some settings that work for you. I was using the ratio of settings before until I realized that using the detail slider on any xtrans file was counter intuitive to how the camera is designed and how the slider is intended to used. Regardless if it works for you, keep doing what works!
@@Reggiebphoto It appears that I get similar results using higher Amount and lower Detail or lower Amount and higher Detail. In any case, Lightroom sharpening works for me.
@@Reggiebphoto Landscape and portraits. It really comes down to dialing in the masking but I usually land around 50-60. I also use my XT2 to scan my 35 and 120 film negatives and you would really see the "worms" as it would sharpen all the grain too. But using your method, all that is fixed nicely leaving a decently sharp image. @mikeborzage on IG.
Fully agree with you - it’s not only the Fuji but every other camera. I have processed canon raw files and I get worms as well in Lightroom! Great video as always.
thanks for getting my point haha. lots of people has misunderstood me as trying to compare the sharpness of nikon vs fuji which was not my point at all!
Haha people get emotional about their tools and pixel peeping is dangerous. I never hear people saying that oh my photograph doesn’t have a soul or oh my compositions look crap! It’s always worms, wax, dynamic range etc. unfortunately technological advancement has killed inner photographer of a person. I remembered the first day I shot 35mm film and I zoomed in - I was scared to see the grains but then I told myself this is not what o should do. I should look at the them at normal size and feel the essence of color and the soul in it. Since then I bought few more film camera and I throughly enjoy them. 😊
Very good video! You hit the nail on the head when comparing the over sharpening with the Nikon and the Fuji, as it seems most people tend to over sharpen. I've often considered moving over to Fuji and the whole "LR or Capture One" debate put me off. Especially since, I never notice the different personally. But this video really helped me understand Fuji RAW files more; thanks dude!
I want the X-T3 so bad, but lots of videos have scared me off, because I don’t want to move away from the Adobe ecosystem. THANK YOU for this video!!! 🙌🏼👌🏼
Ben Pennington it’s all just noise. People are scared about what they’re unfamiliar with and don’t want to work hard to adjust. Hence “capture one is better!” You can get good results with lr. Check out my other videos and you’ll see examples of images that are perfectly fine processed with LR
Amazing video Reggie, thanks. The only thing I would add is that Detail 100 (aka Deconvolution) requires the radius to be set to the minimum (can't do 0, so 0.5). It doesn't fix the worms completely if your goal is a large print but helps a lot in other cases.
Reggie Ballesteros I saw that :) I'm just saying that should you need to do it, sliding Radius to its minimum makes it usable. Detail to 0 is like Unsharp Mask, which is for sharpening larger areas, while Detail to 100, as you know, is like Deconvolution so microsharpening, hence why it works with the tiniest radius.
Yes! After I realized it for myself felt that the facts needed to be laid out. Capture one does seem to do it better but once you understand what lightroom is doing, you can tailor it to work very well with Fuji
Wow, I'm going to try this. It should work just as you said, and if it does then you saved me a lot of headache of switching and getting used to another editing program. Thanks for this very needed video!
I think the foliage is the problem with worms on Fuji files vs any other brands. When looking at grass , tress and hedges etc , you will see much worse worming affect on Fuji files . Quick question, with a Fuji XE3 24 mpix vs D610 Nikon , zoomed at 100% , would they be similar with details captured if they both have decent lens attached , or would the Full frame Nikon D610/D750 resolve more ? Great video btw 👍
thanks is for uploading this video! I knew there was a trick to this, but all of our there is the iridient developer and c-1, etc. I appreciate you taking the time to reach us how it's done!
with the new texture slider and enhanced details feature, there's even more opportunity to get more detail in lightroom. but the settings i cover definitely help mitigate the worms!
@@Reggiebphoto yes! I love the texture slider! again, a little goes a long way. not only the sensor promotes sharp images, the Fuji lenses are fantastic and so sharp!
@@BobbyBabaletskos yup exactly. from what i've tried, no one should really be venturing past +25 on the texture slider as it start amplifying any noise in the photo.
THANKYOU so very much.....for clearing that up. Im only upgrading from a Canon G7X but already have a headache choosing which.....and still holding on to Aperture for Mac. ( I think I'm asking my camera to do too much in low light. Golden hours/landscapes and almost pocketable). Peace
@@Reggiebphoto Men, I love the way, how you are working with Lightroom and Fuji raws. Here is a long way to reach your level. Good luck and thank you!:)
Interesting ..... good video ..... what is interesting is that most others who are happy with LR tend to increase detail to 60-70 but keep amount under 30
If you compare the results they speak for themselves. And it’s shown clearly in this video that “detail” increases noise and worms. So it’s a misguided tip and just so happened to accidentally create settings that might work.
Omg man!! I'm so tired of this worms.. i already start moving to capture one and thinking about buy nikon or sony.. but you just did miricle! Thank you!
Reggie, Thanks for the videos that you are putting out for the Fujifilm system. I noticed that this video is showing minimal worming effect at your ISO 160 file setting. I just converted over from a Nikon system and picked up the X100F and the X-T3. The X-T3 I have used predominately for shooting professional and collegiate level sports and have found that at higher ISO settings, (3200 - 8000) the worm effect is crazy in LR. So much so, that I have set up a workflow using Adobe Camera Raw and Photoshop 2019 which strangely doesn't exhibit these issues. Fortunately, for anyone else out there that that uses the Adobe photographers package (LR+PS) you can do all of your edits with excellent results in ACR +PS.
Doug Stringer I made a video linked at the top of the comments for shooting at high iso and avoiding the artifacts. It all hinders around keeping detail slider at 0-10 (very low). Photoshop sharpening is based on unsharp mask. Lightroom sharpening in the detail slider is on a scale of 0 (100% unsharp mask method) to 100 (100% deconvolution method). Deconvolution does not play nice with Fuji files.
Examples here are 6400 iso and above with no worms. The key here is making and NR in conjunction with the sharpening settings that I covered in this video.
Awesome video mate. I've been toying around with Lightroom, Capture One, Luminar and Photoshop. Lightroom and Photoshop are just light years ahead of the rest in terms of tools and ecosystem. Capture One I find great for small edits or some light selective edits, I'd actually use it as a primary editing app except the HSL is inferior to Lightroom/Photoshop. It has about half the color slices available which means less tonal control. I use HSL a lot so it was a dealbreaker. Great vid / explanation of the worm sharpening on Fuji vs others. The comparison with Nikon really sold it!
Also I was actually blown away by Luminar3... it just runs like a$$ on a PC. If they fix that and have a good way of managing media then it could be a serious contender. For now I chalk it upto a "fun" tool, bit of a shame really.
The color editing in Capture One is actually vastly superior to Lightroom. You can HSL any color your pick. I'm moving back to lightroom because of organization and synchonization, but miss the superior color editing of C1.
Right but I think that works differently as it just moves the existing sliders while C1 targets the selected color directly (and allows to configure the range with smoothness). I liked it more (also the skin tone panel), but I'm still a beginner so I might be totally wrong as well :)
500th Like. Very informative, I learned so much. Please, can you explain to us how Fujifilm RAW files work? What is applied and what is not. Cause in EVF I see something else. For instance, if I have custom sharpness or custom white balance in EVF, I see it as I set, but back in Lightroom there will be stripped photo of all those functions? WHAT IS ACTUALLY FF RAW file. Just zeroed picture of any custom functions? Thank you for your time.
Henri Tatar the custom film simulation settings are only applied to JPEGs. This isn’t a Fujifilm specific behavior, it’s a fact with any camera dslr or mirrorless: the picture settings, film simulation, etc is only applied to the jpeg photo. The mirrorless evf, or live view lcd gives a live readout of your jpeg settings. Raw photos on the other hand will always be stripped down. Just google jpeg vs raw and you’ll probably find a better explanation.
@@Reggiebphoto thank you. Very kind of you to reply. I had just interest what is the basic of that RAW. I will try to Experiment and Google. Best wishes to your channel. Cheers.
Yup, I got your question. I just think that I won’t be able to provide a good explanation that others haven’t already said haha. It’s one of the more fundamental photography concepts. One day I should make a video on it maybe 🤔
While I don’t argue that Fuji files might be sharper straight out of the camera, I’m afraid the comparison you were making with the Nikon shot were not very fair. The photo produced with Nikon was backlit and will always come out softer than the one that was front lit (Fuji) image you compared to. You might be right about the Fuji being sharp, I just think you should use a different photo to compare the two camera outputs.
The comparison wasn’t a sharpness comparision but more of observing how they both are susceptible to oversharpening from Lightroom’s algorithm - many users claim that Lightroom only has sharpening issues with fuji. The use of the Nikon file was to show that any other camera model is also susceptible to the same sharpening issues.
Maybe you should get someone experienced in capture one to edit a couple of your photos using capture one to compare with your LR editing. Your photos look beautiful but it would still be good to know the difference.
LAZY DOG there’s a ton of videos doing this comparison. I get where your coming from, but I don’t have the bandwidth right now to explore that. Maybe down the road one day. But not something I have planned just yet. Thanks for the suggestion tho!
Reggie Ballesteros Having now watched some of your videos I can see you have your workflow as you require it for your purposes. You are an excellent photographer.
It determines what sized details are sharpened. Smaller finer details like landscapes require smaller radius sharpenig while portraits do better with larger radius (otherwise pores will be picked up and sharpened)
@@Reggiebphoto Thanks for the reply. So small details like in landscapes require smaller radius and portraits require larger radius, but on the portrait at 15:50 you didn't raise the radius larger, you left it at the default, which is small. Sorry if I'm confusing, I'm just trying to understand.
Hi Reggie. Very useful tutorial. Thank you! I just purchased an X-T2 (don't need the video capabilities of the X-T3). I used to shoot with mostly Canon DSLRs. I hear there is some kind of LR plug-in that Iridient X-transformer comes with. I just downloaded the demo for X-transformer and installed it on my PC. However, i don not see the plug-in ... just an .exe file which opens up the stand-alone program. Is the LR plug-in not included with the demo?
I'm seriously considering the X-T3 after having used canon DSLR's, C100 and A7Sii as video cameras for years. Have recently been digging into the FUJI system and am enjoying the ethos and philosophy they apply to image making and photography. Maybe it's the "soul" thing I like so much!! Honestly though, am waiting for Panasonic full frame S's to and a new Sony upgrade on A7sii before pulling the trigger. Also, I do a lot of time-lapse with LRTimelapse and encountered concern re Fuji raw file processing within Lightroom, but seems your video has sorted that issue out. Has Lightroom by the way recently addressed processing of Fuji raw files internally? Keep up the good work!!!@@Reggiebphoto
I don’t believe LR has any plans to change anything for processing of the X-T3. If the editor takes the time to update their usual settings, LR works just as fine for Fuji as it does any other camera. Some other users claim that Iridient X Transformer gets more details out of the finer areas, but I’ve compared the two for my photography and workflow and can’t see the justification of adding a conversion step to my workflow (as the conversion is processor intensive and takes some time)
If you prefer capture one and want to recommend it, that’s fine. But maybe don’t tell a beginner that it “doesn’t fully handle Fuji files”. You’re passing it off as fact when the truth is one can get awesome results with LR just fine.
@@Reggiebphoto Ayos! Just recently switched from sony apsc to fuji xt3 and I found the right channel to get started with fuji system. Keep hustling these awesome content. Salamat.
Thanks very much Reggie, this came in really useful as I've just started learning to edit my RAW XT3 files. One question I have is, do you sharpen your files when exporting them to JPEG? I notice Lightroom has an option to export for print or screen.
Actually at 12:45 the Nikon looks way more pleasing to the eye because the artifacts and grain are in dots, rather than worms. But I guess the main point is to not oversharpen Fuji images. That's good to know they are naturally sharp. Waiting for my XT4 to ship :)
Good work man. However, it's pretty easy to sharpen a very low iso photo. I think that what most of us are willing to learn is how to sharpen a high ISO photo (3200, 6400)
Just one question: which version of Lightroom are you using. I'm using a bit older stand - alone version and this recipe will help, however not always...
This recipe won’t always work well for landscapes or finer details photos per some people’s taste. For me it works well for my taste. I was using whatever Lr version that was out in dec 2018 to create this video. I do not use the enhanced detail Feature
Will this approach also be suitable for XT2 files? I'm picking one up soon but I've heard Lightroom produces slightly more artifacts in the 3rd gen X-Trans files than the 4th Gen Xt3 files.
James Walker i haven’t tried it first hand, but it definitely should work since both the xt3 and xt2 have xtrans and no anti aliasing filter. The xt3 does cram more megapixels in the same sensor area so it does creates more artifacts. I would assume you can apply the same approach but not need as much masking or noise reduction for the xt2 than you would for the xt3. Try it out tho and let me know how it goes.
Awesome video! I just noticed from the details of the Fuji raw files it is DNG, is it being converted via iridient? because normally a raw files directly being imported is .raf files. thanks
Ah good eye. Yes these files were converted because they were captured prior to Lightroom raw support for the xt3. Obviously this video was made after raw support for the xt3. Either way, I’m using the same sharpening settings for these as well as the native RAFs. Hoping this clarifies things for ya!
I believe some of your assumptions are wrong. It may not be related to the different pattern vs Bayer pattern. The Fuji xT100 uses a 24 megapixel sensor with a Bayer pattern (not the Xtrans) and suffers the same worm effect. Also, Fuji raw files sharpened using the Photoshop sharpening engine do not suffer these worm effects., even going to 250%, clean sharpening. Try sending your image to PS from lightroom, sharpen it in PS and roundtrip it.
This video was just for specifically for Fuji cameras with the Xtrans sensor and also to be able to edit and sharpen all within Lightroom. Sending the photos to PS would defeat the purpose of what I’m trying to achieve. And I think the biggest point is that the Fuji cameras DO NOT have an antialiasing filter (the xt100 is included in this as while it has a Bayer sensor it still doesn’t have an antialiasing filter). Regardless, thanks for the discussion points and for watching the video!
And to further clarify, my main point was whether or not the cameras have an antialiasing filter, which most if not all Fuji cameras do not. Most other cameras and camera manufacturers have a Bayer pattern AND antialiasing filters.
@@Reggiebphoto Except that it then must be the sharpening engine in Lightroom seeing as the sharpening engine in PS does not cause worming. Your logic is lacking
This is indeed helpful for LR but here is the problem: you're using perfectly exposed photos at low Iso. Take a underexposed image at Iso 800 and bump up that exposure and you'll see worms no matter what. If you take off all sharpening and edits and compare the raw in LR vs CAPTURE 1, you can clearly see the difference, not only in less worms but the actual dynamic range, bokeh and transition of highlights. Not to mention color rendition. It's crazy but true. I've been using LR for years but as a professional I just couldn't do this to myself any longer.
I use a X-T20 and a X-T2 and in Lightroom the sharpening is switched off by default. For Landscapes I use the Iridient XTransformer plugin in Lightroom for dng conversion then sharpen in photoshop. For my stock and other stuff I just use Lightroom for dng conversion and in the Sharpen Tab Amount-15 Radius-1 Detail-never above 60 and selective masking. By doing this I've never had worms. I think for a lot of us we were kind of brainwashed into Pre-Sharpen first and then Output Sharpen at the end which worked as you say with the Bayer type sensor but not with Fuji. Your way worked as well when I tried it so well done! there will be a lot of people wishing you had put this out about 3 years ago. Since the upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC the dng conversion is much better but I think till Fuji gets a bigger share in the market Adobe will cater for the Conventional bayer type as you described. There is also a stigma with Fuji APS-C from Full Frame enthusiasts which I think fed the 'worm' fire more than it should have been. In my humble view the benefits of the system outweighed the simple workaround at the beginning and for most photographers that had to do this for a living and not a hobby, just sharpened in Photoshop and got on with it. No system is perfect as you displayed. Great vlog Reggie. new sub.
Thanks so much for your comment Jim. I agree, the worm fire is overfed but I’m glad you found your own system that works and hoping that my system can educate new Fuji users. Cheers!
More often than not yes. There is some demosaicing issues, but it’s not fuji specific. And actually Lightroom recently released a new update with an “enhance details” feature that might counteract the issues that landscape photographers are facing.
Reggie Ballesteros I’ve never run into these types of artifacts when editing photos. Been shooting exclusively Leica for about 5 years. Looking to downsize my kit since it’s been collecting dust when not traveling to something more friendly. I am a landscape / family travel / snap shot style photographer. Looks like the worms are most likely to be in foliage / high iso environments. Like you I like my LR work flow from an organization perspective.
The issues is most prevalent to those who seek it out, like a negative placebo affect. The truth is the issue affects maybe less than 5% of the type of photography I do. With that said I still took some lengths to find settings that mitigate it. And if you didn’t already, I also made a video on editing high iso Fuji files as well. If one wants to stay in Lightroom and avoids zooming at 200% (which is unreasonable) you will be more than satisfied with the results!
The masking is a lot lower than what I typically use. And I also personally don’t like introducing any of the detail slider as in my video I’ve shown that it isn’t necessary for my work. As far as noise reduction settings go, I’ve made a video on how I apply noise reduction to xt3 files th-cam.com/video/9Jn9nrz874I/w-d-xo.html . With all that said, what works best for me might not work best for you. So experiment with these settings and figure out what works best for your photography style!
@@Reggiebphoto thanks buddy. Technique mentioned here didn't work for my XH1, rather I'm best off lowering radius slightly bumping detail and then lightly ramping amount. Go figure.
Your comparison between the Fuji and Nikon images was flawed because there was way more going on than just Bayer vs X-Trans sensor files. The Nikon is a full-frame sensor that is now almost 5 years old. The Fuji is brand new back-lit APSC sensor. You make no mention or compensation for the lenses used, which as we all know is a MAJOR factor in sharpness and overall IQ. There is also no mention of ISO, shutter speed, or aperture settings. As a result, the reaction to your sharpening is one of several factors contributing to the perceived differences but by no means the only one.
Tom Scott appreciate the input. The point of the video was not to do an a-b comparison of Nikon vs fuji, but a way to analyze why those switching from another camera system (a popular one is Nikon) and illustrate why the same Lightroom sharpening settings can not be used for Fuji.
@@Reggiebphoto If the point was not to do an a -b comparison, then why did you actually do an a - b comparison? My point was and is that without including the other factors affecting IQ your point was not made. For example, if you used a Sigma Art prime lens on the Nikon D750 vs the 18-55 "kit" lens on the Fuji that Nikon image is going to be amazing SOOC and it will take sharpening as far as you can push it. I'm a Fuji shooter but I think you're guilty of "confirmation bias" here.
@@Reggiebphoto You made the point several times that Fuji files are so sharp they don't need as much sharpening as others. If that's not an image comparison, what is it and more to the point, if image quality isn't the issue... who cares?
Cut him some slack, it was a comparison for explanation, not a scientific A/B comparison. He just wanted to show that the same phenomenon happens with the Nikon.
If you liked this video I made a follow up video for sharpening and adding noise reduction to high iso xt3 files th-cam.com/video/9Jn9nrz874I/w-d-xo.html
Probably the best and most informative Fuji video on the net! Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the feedback and comment Darren. There’s a lot of negative buzz about things being broken on Fuji, but for most of these “issues” they can all be overcome or worked around. Let me know if you have any ideas for future video topics.
This is excellent. I especially appreciate the clear explanation, in the first part, of "why." Then you follow up with "how." Thanks; I'm subscribed.
Thanks! Some would rather just get the settings up front. But i personally want to know why things are done,
So I made a video (and I make all my videos)
In that manner.
Wow. You just saved me a lot of time and money and helped me feel better about LR.
This is the most comprehensive video I have seen regarding Fujifilm sharpening. Thank you very much for putting this video together it is an outstanding training tool. 👍
PT76251 thanks so much for your feedback. Super kind words and glad this content is helpful!
AGREED! Best discussion about this concept EVER. And that includes angry photographer's recent video too. Quite the compliment because he generally really knows his stuff. I'm shooting with XT2's for now with all primes. THANK YOU REGGIE!
You’re welcome!
Reggie, you are killing it with your content! Great explanation about the difference between the sensors and how this affects sharpening.
Thanks so much! Glad to help !
Great job with this video. Your conclusion contradicts what many accept as convention wisdom with RAF files in Lr (low amount, high detail) but one can't argue with the results. The way you presented everything was clear and thorough; and your inclusion of the Nikon RAW file was quite interesting.
Timothy Linn yup it does contradict so I was scared to put this video out there, but using logic it just made more sense to 0 out the detail slider. Thanks for the kind words!
Great video Bro!! Thank you so much and happy new year!!
So the slider in question was designed to recover something in other files that's not lost in Fuji files. That's the gist I got from the first half of the video. Seems like a good workflow solution is create and apply a develop setting when importing to LR. A setting where the slider is set to 0.
I tried this on a portrait I'm currently working on and it does make a huge difference. Exported 2 files to PS, one with slider on, the other off. Noticed a difference straight away because it was always more noticeable when I exported to PS.
Great video and explanation.
Yes, exactly! Glad that it made a difference for you!
Excellent tutorial. Well done. I'm currently comparing an XT-3 to my 5DMK3 for my channel and this video answered a lot of questions. :)
Booray Perry awesome to glad to help out!
This was so informative! I couldn't really understand what people were so upset about regarding fuji sharpening in Lightroom, I know I get worm effects when I OVER-sharpen but I expect you get that with many cameras with the bayer sensor (perhaps not as bad). But this explanation and the helpful breakdown in the description has helped me understand how each parameter affects fuji files and when to use which setting for what type of photo. Cheers!!
Excellent tutorial. I shoot mostly landscapes and my default sharpening settings are: 35 0.5 75 0. This gives excellent results with no worms with my x-pro2 files.
Awesome! Glad you found some settings that work for you. I was using the ratio of settings before until I realized that using the detail slider on any xtrans file was counter intuitive to how the camera is designed and how the slider is intended to used. Regardless if it works for you, keep doing what works!
@@Reggiebphoto It appears that I get similar results using higher Amount and lower Detail or lower Amount and higher Detail. In any case, Lightroom sharpening works for me.
Thanks! This is a good explanation!
🙌🏽
Hey just checking back in to let you know that your method kicks ass and has helped me enormously. Thanks.
Yes! Curious what type of photos do you shoot? Just want to keep tabs on what the settings work well with.
@@Reggiebphoto Landscape and portraits. It really comes down to dialing in the masking but I usually land around 50-60. I also use my XT2 to scan my 35 and 120 film negatives and you would really see the "worms" as it would sharpen all the grain too. But using your method, all that is fixed nicely leaving a decently sharp image. @mikeborzage on IG.
Great video. Very helpful and big relief that such a ready solution to Fuji Worms.
Andrew Jones you’re welcome!
Fully agree with you - it’s not only the Fuji but every other camera. I have processed canon raw files and I get worms as well in Lightroom! Great video as always.
thanks for getting my point haha. lots of people has misunderstood me as trying to compare the sharpness of nikon vs fuji which was not my point at all!
Haha people get emotional about their tools and pixel peeping is dangerous. I never hear people saying that oh my photograph doesn’t have a soul or oh my compositions look crap! It’s always worms, wax, dynamic range etc. unfortunately technological advancement has killed inner photographer of a person. I remembered the first day I shot 35mm film and I zoomed in - I was scared to see the grains but then I told myself this is not what o should do. I should look at the them at normal size and feel the essence of color and the soul in it. Since then I bought few more film camera and I throughly enjoy them. 😊
Lighting and composition and story is always king.
Why haven't I seen this?! Thanks Reggie! Never wanted to switch to capture one.
Mark Anthony Loria one of my first videos
Great video! thanks for sharing. I'm moving from Nikon to Fuji X-h1 and X-t3
André T. Ormset nice this will come useful!
Very good video! You hit the nail on the head when comparing the over sharpening with the Nikon and the Fuji, as it seems most people tend to over sharpen. I've often considered moving over to Fuji and the whole "LR or Capture One" debate put me off. Especially since, I never notice the different personally. But this video really helped me understand Fuji RAW files more; thanks dude!
you're welcome!
I want the X-T3 so bad, but lots of videos have scared me off, because I don’t want to move away from the Adobe ecosystem. THANK YOU for this video!!! 🙌🏼👌🏼
Ben Pennington it’s all just noise. People are scared about what they’re unfamiliar with and don’t want to work hard to adjust. Hence “capture one is better!” You can get good results with lr. Check out my other videos and you’ll see examples of images that are perfectly fine processed with LR
Reggie Ballesteros I’ll be checking out more of your work . I thought your photos were fantastic!
Ben Pennington thanks!
Thanks a lot for this transparent and comprehensive explanation!
Thank you very much for this explanation - I’m using X-T5 and only occasionally have worming …..
Many thanks for sharing...I was about to jump ship to Capture One, but dont need to now 👍
Glad to save you the switch!
Amazing video Reggie, thanks.
The only thing I would add is that Detail 100 (aka Deconvolution) requires the radius to be set to the minimum (can't do 0, so 0.5). It doesn't fix the worms completely if your goal is a large print but helps a lot in other cases.
I don’t use detail 100 at all. In fact I do the exact opposite. Thanks for the comment
Reggie Ballesteros I saw that :) I'm just saying that should you need to do it, sliding Radius to its minimum makes it usable.
Detail to 0 is like Unsharp Mask, which is for sharpening larger areas, while Detail to 100, as you know, is like Deconvolution so microsharpening, hence why it works with the tiniest radius.
Really helpful, thanks so much! Best explanation I've seen of this issue so far.
Yes! After I realized it for myself felt that the facts needed to be laid out. Capture one does seem to do it better but once you understand what lightroom is doing, you can tailor it to work very well with Fuji
Wow, I'm going to try this. It should work just as you said, and if it does then you saved me a lot of headache of switching and getting used to another editing program. Thanks for this very needed video!
Yup definitely. Let me know how it goes!
Very interesting. Thanks
thanks mate, Subscribed. Been using PS Unsharp Mask fo my RAF but I'm looking forward to trying this new way!
I think the foliage is the problem with worms on Fuji files vs any other brands. When looking at grass , tress and hedges etc , you will see much worse worming affect on Fuji files .
Quick question, with a Fuji XE3 24 mpix vs D610 Nikon , zoomed at 100% , would they be similar with details captured if they both have decent lens attached , or would the Full frame Nikon D610/D750 resolve more ? Great video btw 👍
I’m not sure tbh
100% agree. With potrait shoots it's not a problem but with landscape photos you have worms or watercolor effect very pronounced.
thanks is for uploading this video! I knew there was a trick to this, but all of our there is the iridient developer and c-1, etc. I appreciate you taking the time to reach us how it's done!
with the new texture slider and enhanced details feature, there's even more opportunity to get more detail in lightroom. but the settings i cover definitely help mitigate the worms!
@@Reggiebphoto yes! I love the texture slider! again, a little goes a long way. not only the sensor promotes sharp images, the Fuji lenses are fantastic and so sharp!
@@BobbyBabaletskos yup exactly. from what i've tried, no one should really be venturing past +25 on the texture slider as it start amplifying any noise in the photo.
Excellent video. Very informative and helpful.
Josh Grooves thanks josh. Glad I could help out. Let me know if you have any other questions or ideas for future video topics
Great work, Reggie, another very helpful video :-)
Kathrin Meister awesomeness I feel this is a must watch for any Fuji lightroom user
Your video helped lots thanks
Jorge Iturbe glad it helped!
THANKYOU so very much.....for clearing that up. Im only upgrading from a Canon G7X but already have a headache choosing which.....and still holding on to Aperture for Mac. ( I think I'm asking my camera to do too much in low light. Golden hours/landscapes and almost pocketable). Peace
this is explained very well! thank you!
Leander Porras you’re welcome!
This dude is a genius!
Lol. Super old video, but the concepts still apply
@@Reggiebphoto truth! I never had issues with my x series but with the 50s there’s a lot more details and sharpening so I popped in to pick your brain
Thank you so much for this video! Im subscribing! I love your videos, very informative and easy to follow.
Thanks! Glad to hear!
Can you do a video of setting for taking group photos
Abarberslife Pason what type of group photos?
Reggie Ballesteros like group family more then 3+ ppl in the photo... setting and how to get most them sharp. I
Just tried your method and it does work. Thanks
Glad it worked out for you. Let me know if you have any other questions or topics for future videoes
Thank you a lot!
Marcel Janík you’re welcome!
@@Reggiebphoto Men, I love the way, how you are working with Lightroom and Fuji raws. Here is a long way to reach your level. Good luck and thank you!:)
Interesting ..... good video ..... what is interesting is that most others who are happy with LR tend to increase detail to 60-70 but keep amount under 30
If you compare the results they speak for themselves. And it’s shown clearly in this video that “detail” increases noise and worms. So it’s a misguided tip and just so happened to accidentally create settings that might work.
defiantly staying with LR CLassic thanks
philiphough photography made a 2020 update as well th-cam.com/video/X2hVqCdxqMs/w-d-xo.html
Super. Thx Reggie....👏
Eirik Arnesen you’re welcome!
Omg man!! I'm so tired of this worms.. i already start moving to capture one and thinking about buy nikon or sony.. but you just did miricle! Thank you!
Haha nice!
Just found you, just subscribed and just knocked out with this. I have just changed over to Fuji and loving it. Thanks so much.
You’re welcome! Let me know if you have any special video requests that would be helpful for your transition
Great video Reggie! Just moving over from Nikon, and this really helps.
Sweet! Glad to be of help!
Massive help! Thanks very much!
No problem!
Reggie, Thanks for the videos that you are putting out for the Fujifilm system. I noticed that this video is showing minimal worming effect at your ISO 160 file setting. I just converted over from a Nikon system and picked up the X100F and the X-T3. The X-T3 I have used predominately for shooting professional and collegiate level sports and have found that at higher ISO settings, (3200 - 8000) the worm effect is crazy in LR. So much so, that I have set up a workflow using Adobe Camera Raw and Photoshop 2019 which strangely doesn't exhibit these issues. Fortunately, for anyone else out there that that uses the Adobe photographers package (LR+PS) you can do all of your edits with excellent results in ACR +PS.
Doug Stringer I made a video linked at the top of the comments for shooting at high iso and avoiding the artifacts. It all hinders around keeping detail slider at 0-10 (very low). Photoshop sharpening is based on unsharp mask. Lightroom sharpening in the detail slider is on a scale of 0 (100% unsharp mask method) to 100 (100% deconvolution method). Deconvolution does not play nice with Fuji files.
Doug Stringer th-cam.com/video/9Jn9nrz874I/w-d-xo.html
Examples here are 6400 iso and above with no worms. The key here is making and NR in conjunction with the sharpening settings that I covered in this video.
@@Reggiebphoto Thanks. I'll check it out.
Doug Stringer did this work?
Thanks! V. Helpful
awesome video Reggie! keep'em coming 👌🏽🙌🏽
Thanks brother! Appreciate the support. Let me know if you have any ideas or topics that you’d like covered in a future video
Awesome video mate. I've been toying around with Lightroom, Capture One, Luminar and Photoshop.
Lightroom and Photoshop are just light years ahead of the rest in terms of tools and ecosystem. Capture One I find great for small edits or some light selective edits, I'd actually use it as a primary editing app except the HSL is inferior to Lightroom/Photoshop. It has about half the color slices available which means less tonal control. I use HSL a lot so it was a dealbreaker.
Great vid / explanation of the worm sharpening on Fuji vs others. The comparison with Nikon really sold it!
Also I was actually blown away by Luminar3... it just runs like a$$ on a PC. If they fix that and have a good way of managing media then it could be a serious contender. For now I chalk it upto a "fun" tool, bit of a shame really.
Fenix Tech i rely on the catalog and organization of Lightroom too much to ditch it. glad
The video helped!
The color editing in Capture One is actually vastly superior to Lightroom. You can HSL any color your pick. I'm moving back to lightroom because of organization and synchonization, but miss the superior color editing of C1.
Lr has an hsl with a color picker too. Just use the eye dropper
Right but I think that works differently as it just moves the existing sliders while C1 targets the selected color directly (and allows to configure the range with smoothness). I liked it more (also the skin tone panel), but I'm still a beginner so I might be totally wrong as well :)
Fantastic! Thank you so much:)
You’re welcome!
500th Like. Very informative, I learned so much. Please, can you explain to us how Fujifilm RAW files work? What is applied and what is not. Cause in EVF I see something else. For instance, if I have custom sharpness or custom white balance in EVF, I see it as I set, but back in Lightroom there will be stripped photo of all those functions? WHAT IS ACTUALLY FF RAW file. Just zeroed picture of any custom functions? Thank you for your time.
Henri Tatar the custom film simulation settings are only applied to JPEGs. This isn’t a Fujifilm specific behavior, it’s a fact with any camera dslr or mirrorless: the picture settings, film simulation, etc is only applied to the jpeg photo. The mirrorless evf, or live view lcd gives a live readout of your jpeg settings. Raw photos on the other hand will always be stripped down. Just google jpeg vs raw and you’ll probably find a better explanation.
@@Reggiebphoto thank you. Very kind of you to reply. I had just interest what is the basic of that RAW. I will try to Experiment and Google. Best wishes to your channel. Cheers.
Yup, I got your question. I just think that I won’t be able to provide a good explanation that others haven’t already said haha. It’s one of the more fundamental photography concepts. One day I should make a video on it maybe 🤔
thank you for showing me nikon files looks much better and alive than fujis crapsensors :)
You’re welcome
Excellent tip.
Glad to help!
While I don’t argue that Fuji files might be sharper straight out of the camera, I’m afraid the comparison you were making with the Nikon shot were not very fair. The photo produced with Nikon was backlit and will always come out softer than the one that was front lit (Fuji) image you compared to. You might be right about the Fuji being sharp, I just think you should use a different photo to compare the two camera outputs.
The comparison wasn’t a sharpness comparision but more of observing how they both are susceptible to oversharpening from Lightroom’s algorithm - many users claim that Lightroom only has sharpening issues with fuji. The use of the Nikon file was to show that any other camera model is also susceptible to the same sharpening issues.
Thank you very much for this video. It saved me much frustration and money (C1) :-)
Jarle Løv-Kjeldås glad it helped you!
Thanks Reggie, that was very helpful. Do you use the new "Enhance details" function in LR first?...or ignore it?
I tried it once and didn’t really see a difference. But honestly I didn’t give it a real chance or any deep analysis on it.
13:05 and you are good to go, If you want the explanation watch the part before
Appreciate the TLDR lol
@@Reggiebphoto hahaha. I think it works fine, I've been trying to decide betweetn Sony and Fuji and this was one of the points I had to look at
Maybe you should get someone experienced in capture one to edit a couple of your photos using capture one to compare with your LR editing. Your photos look beautiful but it would still be good to know the difference.
LAZY DOG there’s a ton of videos doing this comparison. I get where your coming from, but I don’t have the bandwidth right now to explore that. Maybe down the road one day. But not something I have planned just yet. Thanks for the suggestion tho!
Reggie Ballesteros Having now watched some of your videos I can see you have your workflow as you require it for your purposes. You are an excellent photographer.
LAZY DOG thanks for your kind words!
Great video, you got my sub! Question. I may have missed it, but why didn't you adjust the "Radius" slider when you sharpened the image? Thanks.
It determines what sized details are sharpened. Smaller finer details like landscapes require smaller radius sharpenig while portraits do better with larger radius (otherwise pores will be picked up and sharpened)
@@Reggiebphoto Thanks for the reply. So small details like in landscapes require smaller radius and portraits require larger radius, but on the portrait at 15:50 you didn't raise the radius larger, you left it at the default, which is small. Sorry if I'm confusing, I'm just trying to understand.
adamaj I like the default setting for portraits. I lower tho to smaller radius for landscapes
@@Reggiebphoto Ok, got ya. Thanks.
Hi Reggie. Very useful tutorial. Thank you! I just purchased an X-T2 (don't need the video capabilities of the X-T3). I used to shoot with mostly Canon DSLRs. I hear there is some kind of LR plug-in that Iridient X-transformer comes with. I just downloaded the demo for X-transformer and installed it on my PC. However, i don not see the plug-in ... just an .exe file which opens up the stand-alone program. Is the LR plug-in not included with the demo?
Hey Reggie ... never mind the question re. the Iridient X-Transformer Lightroom plugin ... I figured it out and installed it.
Robin Palmer glad you figured it out!
well done and thx for the infos. only recom i'd give: invest in s microphone, sound quality cam realy be improved!
Wayan Makasii yup I since then have a different workflow for my Audio recording since this video. Thanks for the comment
Boss man!!!! Excellent stuff.
Thanks! Which Fuji camera are you rocking?! Also let me know if you have any ideas or requests for future video topics
I'm seriously considering the X-T3 after having used canon DSLR's, C100 and A7Sii as video cameras for years. Have recently been digging into the FUJI system and am enjoying the ethos and philosophy they apply to image making and photography. Maybe it's the "soul" thing I like so much!! Honestly though, am waiting for Panasonic full frame S's to and a new Sony upgrade on A7sii before pulling the trigger. Also, I do a lot of time-lapse with LRTimelapse and encountered concern re Fuji raw file processing within Lightroom, but seems your video has sorted that issue out. Has Lightroom by the way recently addressed processing of Fuji raw files internally? Keep up the good work!!!@@Reggiebphoto
I don’t believe LR has any plans to change anything for processing of the X-T3. If the editor takes the time to update their usual settings, LR works just as fine for Fuji as it does any other camera. Some other users claim that Iridient X Transformer gets more details out of the finer areas, but I’ve compared the two for my photography and workflow and can’t see the justification of adding a conversion step to my workflow (as the conversion is processor intensive and takes some time)
Thanks Reggie. Would be great if you did a vid explaining the codecs and compressions in the X-T3. Cheers. @@Reggiebphoto
I’m still fairly new to the video side of things, hopefully I can do an explanation on that in the future 👍
Good stuff Reggie. For JPEG shots, can the same technique be applied?
karl gajonera for JPEGs you don’t have to take this approach
I just got my xt30 will i be able to use the raw for lightroom? No need to convert to dng?
If you have the latest version of Lightroom classic cc, you should be good!
Try Capture One, it handles Fuji files far better. LR cannot fully handle Fuji files yet.
If you prefer capture one and want to recommend it, that’s fine. But maybe don’t tell a beginner that it “doesn’t fully handle Fuji files”. You’re passing it off as fact when the truth is one can get awesome results with LR just fine.
I've watched this video before dude! Awesome job
Binge watching all your fuji vidoes man. Very informative. By any chance are you a pinoy?
Karl John Ullegue nice! Yup I am. How’d you discover my videos/channel?
@@Reggiebphoto Ayos! Just recently switched from sony apsc to fuji xt3 and I found the right channel to get started with fuji system. Keep hustling these awesome content. Salamat.
Karl John Ullegue you found me thru TH-cam search?
Thanks very much Reggie, this came in really useful as I've just started learning to edit my RAW XT3 files. One question I have is, do you sharpen your files when exporting them to JPEG? I notice Lightroom has an option to export for print or screen.
William Simmonds I export to the appropriate final output. In most cases jpeg sharpen for screen at the standardsetting
@@Reggiebphoto Thanks a lot Reggie!
William Simmonds no problem!
Actually at 12:45 the Nikon looks way more pleasing to the eye because the artifacts and grain are in dots, rather than worms.
But I guess the main point is to not oversharpen Fuji images. That's good to know they are naturally sharp. Waiting for my XT4 to ship :)
Cool
Informative video.
liked & Subscribed !
Shivakumar Kanmani glad you liked it! And glad you’re on board. I’ve got some good stuff coming soon :)
Waiting for some good stuff like this
Perfect!
You’re welcome!
Nice video and great photos. You could do some editing tutorial as well. I really like skin tones that you get.
Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll add that to my list!
Good work man. However, it's pretty easy to sharpen a very low iso photo. I think that what most of us are willing to learn is how to sharpen a high ISO photo (3200, 6400)
MatLoganFr the pinned comment has a link to my high iso video. th-cam.com/video/9Jn9nrz874I/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing the great information 👍Please let me know which lens you used for this portraits. What is your favourite lens for Fuji
For the Fuji portraits I used the 56 1.2 for the full body shot and the 90 f2 for the shoulder up shot.
Reggie Thank you for the reply. Have a great day 😊
Of course. Thanks for watching! Let me know if you have any ideas or requests for future video topics!
Please do full review on Fujifilm X-T3. which is the best lens you like most for portraits for Fuji
Just one question: which version of Lightroom are you using. I'm using a bit older stand - alone version and this recipe will help, however not always...
This recipe won’t always work well for landscapes or finer details photos per some people’s taste. For me it works well for my taste. I was using whatever Lr version that was out in dec 2018 to create this video. I do not use the enhanced detail
Feature
@@Reggiebphoto Thank you
Will this approach also be suitable for XT2 files? I'm picking one up soon but I've heard Lightroom produces slightly more artifacts in the 3rd gen X-Trans files than the 4th Gen Xt3 files.
James Walker i haven’t tried it first hand, but it definitely should work since both the xt3 and xt2 have xtrans and no anti aliasing filter. The xt3 does cram more megapixels in the same sensor area so it does creates more artifacts. I would assume you can apply the same approach but not need as much masking or noise reduction for the xt2 than you would for the xt3. Try it out tho and let me know how it goes.
Awesome video!
I just noticed from the details of the Fuji raw files it is DNG, is it being converted via iridient? because normally a raw files directly being imported is .raf files.
thanks
Ah good eye. Yes these files were converted because they were captured prior to Lightroom raw support for the xt3. Obviously this video was made after raw support for the xt3. Either way, I’m using the same sharpening settings for these as well as the native RAFs. Hoping this clarifies things for ya!
What kind of flash do you use?
Jon Maat for casual photos around the house I use the godox tt350f, for weddings I use yongnuo 560 and 660 manual flashes both on and off camera.
And there you have it. #fujigang
Yessir
I believe some of your assumptions are wrong. It may not be related to the different pattern vs Bayer pattern. The Fuji xT100 uses a 24 megapixel sensor with a Bayer pattern (not the Xtrans) and suffers the same worm effect. Also, Fuji raw files sharpened using the Photoshop sharpening engine do not suffer these worm effects., even going to 250%, clean sharpening. Try sending your image to PS from lightroom, sharpen it in PS and roundtrip it.
This video was just for specifically for Fuji cameras with the Xtrans sensor and also to be able to edit and sharpen all within Lightroom. Sending the photos to PS would defeat the purpose of what I’m trying to achieve. And I think the biggest point is that the Fuji cameras DO NOT have an antialiasing filter (the xt100 is included in this as while it has a Bayer sensor it still doesn’t have an antialiasing filter). Regardless, thanks for the discussion points and for watching the video!
And to further clarify, my main point was whether or not the cameras have an antialiasing filter, which most if not all Fuji cameras do not. Most other cameras and camera manufacturers have a Bayer pattern AND antialiasing filters.
@@Reggiebphoto Except that it then must be the sharpening engine in Lightroom seeing as the sharpening engine in PS does not cause worming. Your logic is lacking
Excellent information. Next time, please no noisy location. .. . = ;- )
Art Tyree 👍
This is indeed helpful for LR but here is the problem: you're using perfectly exposed photos at low Iso. Take a underexposed image at Iso 800 and bump up that exposure and you'll see worms no matter what. If you take off all sharpening and edits and compare the raw in LR vs CAPTURE 1, you can clearly see the difference, not only in less worms but the actual dynamic range, bokeh and transition of highlights. Not to mention color rendition. It's crazy but true.
I've been using LR for years but as a professional I just couldn't do this to myself any longer.
sonpois using this technique with high iso files th-cam.com/video/9Jn9nrz874I/w-d-xo.html
It looks like the work effect had been much approved. My default sharpening is 75. Ive never used 100+ sharpening setting
you can apply sharpening amount to taste. the most important parameter is that the detail slider is at 0 to avoid worms.
I use a X-T20 and a X-T2 and in Lightroom the sharpening is switched off by default. For Landscapes I use the Iridient XTransformer plugin in Lightroom for dng conversion then sharpen in photoshop. For my stock and other stuff I just use Lightroom for dng conversion and in the Sharpen Tab Amount-15 Radius-1 Detail-never above 60 and selective masking. By doing this I've never had worms. I think for a lot of us we were kind of brainwashed into Pre-Sharpen first and then Output Sharpen at the end which worked as you say with the Bayer type sensor but not with Fuji.
Your way worked as well when I tried it so well done! there will be a lot of people wishing you had put this out about 3 years ago. Since the upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC the dng conversion is much better but I think till Fuji gets a bigger share in the market Adobe will cater for the Conventional bayer type as you described. There is also a stigma with Fuji APS-C from Full Frame enthusiasts which I think fed the 'worm' fire more than it should have been. In my humble view the benefits of the system outweighed the simple workaround at the beginning and for most photographers that had to do this for a living and not a hobby, just sharpened in Photoshop and got on with it. No system is perfect as you displayed. Great vlog Reggie. new sub.
Thanks so much for your comment Jim. I agree, the worm fire is overfed but I’m glad you found your own system that works and hoping that my system can educate new Fuji users. Cheers!
Good video, considering switching from my large Leica SL system to Fuji.
Seems like the worms is all error introduced by the user?
More often than not yes. There is some demosaicing issues, but it’s not fuji specific. And actually Lightroom recently released a new update with an “enhance details” feature that might counteract the issues that landscape photographers are facing.
Reggie Ballesteros I’ve never run into these types of artifacts when editing photos. Been shooting exclusively Leica for about 5 years.
Looking to downsize my kit since it’s been collecting dust when not traveling to something more friendly.
I am a landscape / family travel / snap shot style photographer. Looks like the worms are most likely to be in foliage / high iso environments.
Like you I like my LR work flow from an organization perspective.
The issues is most prevalent to those who seek it out, like a negative placebo affect. The truth is the issue affects maybe less than 5% of the type of photography I do. With that said I still took some lengths to find settings that mitigate it. And if you didn’t already, I also made a video on editing high iso Fuji files as well. If one wants to stay in Lightroom and avoids zooming at 200% (which is unreasonable) you will be more than satisfied with the results!
Skip to 13:07 if you just want to fix it and not hear about anything else.
Or just watch this video instead with the updates fixes th-cam.com/video/X2hVqCdxqMs/w-d-xo.html
Someone on FB XT3 group recommended this settings (see the image on the link) - what do you think? ibb.co/GWYTvrc
The masking is a lot lower than what I typically use. And I also personally don’t like introducing any of the detail slider as in my video I’ve shown that it isn’t necessary for my work. As far as noise reduction settings go, I’ve made a video on how I apply noise reduction to xt3 files th-cam.com/video/9Jn9nrz874I/w-d-xo.html . With all that said, what works best for me might not work best for you. So experiment with these settings and figure out what works best for your photography style!
@@Reggiebphoto Thx, will experiment tomorrow. Keep up the good work with Fuji XT3 videos!
Thanks so much. Curious do you have any topics that you’d like covered in a future video?
Reggie Ballesteros I’ll let you know soon. I’m XT3 owner for less then 1 week... :)
Haha sounds good. Would
You be interested in an explanation of all the settings and my personal setup of the xt3?
Great stuff Reggie! But buy a lav mic :-)
Thanks Steve! Already making the point to do that for my next bts iteration :)
First! Comment!
Lol
I'm sorry but I'm afraid this is not an issue. Try to enlarge grass, or tree leaves, even with zero sharpenings and you will see the issue ...
fair point. thanks for the comment
Skip 13 minutes to skip 12 minutes of camera brand A vs B.
Samuel El Jack th-cam.com/video/X2hVqCdxqMs/w-d-xo.html updated video and workflow
@@Reggiebphoto thanks buddy. Technique mentioned here didn't work for my XH1, rather I'm best off lowering radius slightly bumping detail and then lightly ramping amount. Go figure.
Whatever works!
How about high iso worms ?😂
I made two videos on high iso
Why do you look like a Bond Villain
Haha! Because it was below freezing temperatures outside that day when I was traveling. And I’m only used to Bay Area California weather
Your comparison between the Fuji and Nikon images was flawed because there was way more going on than just Bayer vs X-Trans sensor files. The Nikon is a full-frame sensor that is now almost 5 years old. The Fuji is brand new back-lit APSC sensor. You make no mention or compensation for the lenses used, which as we all know is a MAJOR factor in sharpness and overall IQ. There is also no mention of ISO, shutter speed, or aperture settings. As a result, the reaction to your sharpening is one of several factors contributing to the perceived differences but by no means the only one.
Tom Scott appreciate the input. The point of the video was not to do an a-b comparison of Nikon vs fuji, but a way to analyze why those switching from another camera system (a popular one is Nikon) and illustrate why the same Lightroom sharpening settings can not be used for Fuji.
@@Reggiebphoto If the point was not to do an a -b comparison, then why did you actually do an a - b comparison? My point was and is that without including the other factors affecting IQ your point was not made. For example, if you used a Sigma Art prime lens on the Nikon D750 vs the 18-55 "kit" lens on the Fuji that Nikon image is going to be amazing SOOC and it will take sharpening as far as you can push it. I'm a Fuji shooter but I think you're guilty of "confirmation bias" here.
Tom Scott my point was that any file could be subject to oversharpening. It wasn’t an image quality comparison by any means.
@@Reggiebphoto You made the point several times that Fuji files are so sharp they don't need as much sharpening as others. If that's not an image comparison, what is it and more to the point, if image quality isn't the issue... who cares?
Cut him some slack, it was a comparison for explanation, not a scientific A/B comparison. He just wanted to show that the same phenomenon happens with the Nikon.
They are not sharper out of camera. They are very soft out of camera that’s why ppl are trying to sharpen them!!!
If you compare the files to those of other camera brands, the fuji files are much sharper out of camera.