Great concise explanation, exactly what I was looking for! Anyone complaining he skipped some steps... you're right, this video is for people that have some experience working on cars, but want pointers on the quickest way to do it on a Subaru.
I went to check on my car today at The shop that’s putting my new JDM engine in, because they said they almost have my old motor out. When I got there about 4 hours later nobody was working on my car. They gave up because they said it’s stuck on the clutch fork pin and they can’t get the motor out. So I’m trying to find/figure it out for them so they do it right! Thanks for this video. I’m gonna show them this. My plan was to video my whole build and start a channel but this job proved to be pretty expensive so I couldn’t afford a camera.
Awesome video. You saved us a lot of money. Two tips. Used a come along to pull transmission back. Got 10mm x 1.25 all thread and cut two 6" pieces. Threaded them into engine and used nuts to pull transmission back together. Thanks again
I think that at the dealership level they don't do it but I put a clutch on a WRX and the company who I bought the resurfaced flywheel they were the company responsible to build the rally cars for Subaru Canada and they do it all the time but I would think that there is a minimum thickness and that there is no heat stress crack etc I work more on Volkswagen cars when we have to do a clutch most of the time they have a dual mass flywheel and they most of the time need to be replaced this is why we never resurface any flywheels except the single mass ones.
I will be purchasing a 2004 Subaru anytime soon. And I don't know much about cars yet but I'm learning and I'm still trying to figure out why you would do this? Thanks
Marcel Holguin You would do this any time you have an issue with your clutch (ie it was blown) or if you wanted a performance clutch swap, and there isn't much necessity in changing your fly wheel, but if you want a more performance light weight one you can change it.
Just a thought, Be careful when tightening bolts. If it feels like it wont go in then you need to realign with the plastic tool that came with the clutch. If you force it with the bolts, it will crack the clutch disc. Disregard if he mentioned this. My volume is low
+ynotbmx88 wow quick response. maybe you could give me one more tip?. we are waiting on the flywheel to be done and we can reinstall everything. how hard is the alignment tool to fit in the gap. the shaft looks like it may be in the way a little bit
+mrdauntl3ss you can shave off a bit from the end that doesn't go into the clutch if you have too. or just pull the engine forward some to give you a little extra room
+ynotbmx88 OK thanks alot. ya we maxed the engine forward and trans backwards. I will shave the hoop off. makes me want a subi now not to bad to work on
+Leezy321 yea doing this one we left it connected. it will not make one difference I just like having room underneath it really depends on how your pipes are ran
Not the rear seal. Also if you are dropping the drive shaft me might as well change the out-put shaft seal. I'm a believer of doing everything I can sense I'm pulling crap apart so I don't have to go repeat removing the trans, clutch and flywheel to change a 20 dollar part that I had access to the first time. Also if you have the plastic cove on the air oil separator its a good time to change it with the updated one. Its not a dig on you I just want to save people from the mistakes I have made in past.
I'm thing to replace my clutch on a 96 Subaru impreza. Any idea of I have to remove the clutch fork in order to remove the Transmission? The bolt under the starter seems to just be spinning.
I just did the clutch on my GC8 wrx and everything looks almost exactly the same, the thing I had the most trouble with was getting the fork on the throwout bearing, is there anyway to install it on the trans before putting the trans back in?
I dont know of a way to do it but to make it easier on you when you have the tranny and engine seperated take the fork lever out and put it into the throwout bearing a couple of time just to see what it feels like then you would have a little bit more piece of mind when you are putting the lever back when everything is bolted up
I was thinking about going ACT Street performace clutch but i've been reading it has a lot of chatter any opinions? i'm probably going to go exedy stage 1 organic with an ACT streetlite flywheel
Tim Reece Currently I have an act and I have not noticed any chatter but some people could have but I haven't heard much about that but them or exedy are really great brands so you should go wrong with either.
I did an ACT stage 2 clutch on my 2016 sti and I'm at 500 mile break in period and the car sometimes shakes badly or violently on first gear from a dead stop. is this normal?
Ynotsubie it only does it sometimes from a stop when I take off on first gear. I called the shop and they said it will get better after I break in the clutch or to just take it to them and they will do a test drive on the car. sometimes I can also hear am thumping doing underneath the car. almost like if the driveshaft is moving under a hard take off. not happy at all with this car man. I bought it used and I think the first owner abused this car a lot.
Alonso Arellano Now I would say, that it could be a bushing or a loose connection somewhere but being that new it's not a bushing and even if the previous owner beat on it there is only so much that could of been done. The only thing I could think is something is still loose with the clutch or flywheel. as for the drive shaft just get under there and grab everything you can g to a hand on to see if something is loose
Just had a mechanic install mine now underneath the shifter case im hearing a tick tick tick tick tick while driving and there is no power whatsoever past 4000 rpms
Mr.NiceGuy I’m sure you aready fixed this issue but my guess would be the mechanic forgot to Torque one on the pressure plate bolts holding loaded pressure on your clutch. That tick tick tick is more than likely that bolt bouncing around. Loss of power at 4,000 rpms would be because at that RPM engine torque is to high without that bolt in place and the clutch slips due to its un equal clamping force. I hope this helped. Not trying to assume anyone is in aware just trying to spread my knowledge in hopes it helps anyone in the future
I just replaced the clutch in a 03 wrx. It worked great for about 3 days and then the throw out bearing snap ring popped out of the pressure plate. I snapped it back it, it worked for about 30 mins and popped out again. Has any one else had this problem?
Not much room to work on the clutch and flywheel... what do you torque the bolts to? How do you have the car lifted? You left out all the tricky parts lol.
I have been looking at removing the pilot bearing from the fly wheel. I will have to remove the fly wheel? to replace the bearing? would you suggest having the stock flywheel re surfaced?
215ARW I have had times where I got the tranny back far enough to be able to get it in no problems, and then I have had other times where you would have to shave off some near the handle loop part. So it really depends on how much room you will have.
about how long did this take you? I have an experienced subaru tech willing to do it for me at a good price but I was thinking about doing it myself. if it's not worth the pain, I'd rather just pay to have it installed. let me know! thank you!
just for the record, I've always done my own work on all of my cars. I just don't want to be hogging up my buddy's garage for days because I'm in over my head!
+Jim McJunkin if you have the money and don't mind I would say get it done by a shop, doing this by yourself sucks and takes a long time if you don't know what you are doing, overall it's simple if you have 5 other people to help
@@jimmcjunkin5693 deep6rally is 100% correct. If you can spare the cash to get it done in a shop with the correct garage tools - Ramps and inspection pits etc etc.. get it done in a single day. But if you are new like I am to Subarus and Gearbox removal etc etc .. I am taking my time and doing it solo - ensure someone is close by for safety purposes and transmission trolly jack are valuable and should be used to make the job a lot easier... it can be done on a trolly Jack but beware I drop the gearbox in stages. I think I'll be able to get it down to a day also as this won't be the first time this behemoth comes lol... For record I've been told it's easier to pull the engine and gearbox out together ... then do what you have to do lol.
My question is did you keep the axles and hub assembly bolted up? Was there anything else you had to take apart to accomplish this? I'm doing the job right now lol
The more people you have is always better but by yourself it's going to take most the day if you haven't done one, only because there are a lot of steps to take.
OK and for some reason my tranny won't come out of the bottom stud on the passenger side I'm missing the one on the driver side I will have to keep playing with it
ynotbmx88 I've heard for Subaru's you aren't supposed to resurface the flywheel.. Yes or no? Planning on doing mine soon and it would be nice to just resurface my old one.
Saucey658 you can absolutely resurface it but I am pretty sure there is a limit on how man times you can do it. So make sure you know if it has been done before
Knock out the retaining Pin - near the gearbox end of the axle. Remove the x2 bolt & nut from the Suspension Strut - Careful torqued down fairly hard and make sure the brake line clip is free allowing the hub to come forward pulling the axle out the Gearbox.
After watching this...I Hired a mechanic
yeah as soon as i saw him press a bearing...
Juvenal Oseguera your mechanic won't press in a pilot bearing any different than what was showed in this video.
Exactly!
Great concise explanation, exactly what I was looking for!
Anyone complaining he skipped some steps... you're right, this video is for people that have some experience working on cars, but want pointers on the quickest way to do it on a Subaru.
BROOOOO your trick for locking the flywheel with a wrench and extra bolt was exactly what i needed.
I went to check on my car today at The shop that’s putting my new JDM engine in, because they said they almost have my old motor out. When I got there about 4 hours later nobody was working on my car. They gave up because they said it’s stuck on the clutch fork pin and they can’t get the motor out. So I’m trying to find/figure it out for them so they do it right! Thanks for this video. I’m gonna show them this. My plan was to video my whole build and start a channel but this job proved to be pretty expensive so I couldn’t afford a camera.
when you do a tutorial ACTUALLY SHOW THE CLUTCH INSTALLATION!!!
Awesome video. You saved us a lot of money. Two tips. Used a come along to pull transmission back. Got 10mm x 1.25 all thread and cut two 6" pieces. Threaded them into engine and used nuts to pull transmission back together. Thanks again
Thank you, I am glad it helped.
I think that at the dealership level they don't do it but I put a clutch on a WRX and the company who I bought the resurfaced flywheel they were the company responsible to build the rally cars for Subaru Canada and they do it all the time but I would think that there is a minimum thickness and that there is no heat stress crack etc I work more on Volkswagen cars when we have to do a clutch most of the time they have a dual mass flywheel and they most of the time need to be replaced this is why we never resurface any flywheels except the single mass ones.
Did you have to unbolt anything of the shifter/linkage?
I will be purchasing a 2004 Subaru anytime soon. And I don't know much about cars yet but I'm learning and I'm still trying to figure out why you would do this? Thanks
Marcel Holguin You would do this any time you have an issue with your clutch (ie it was blown) or if you wanted a performance clutch swap, and there isn't much necessity in changing your fly wheel, but if you want a more performance light weight one you can change it.
+Zoran Haliant you still need to re surface it. no point in wasting work
Just a thought, Be careful when tightening bolts. If it feels like it wont go in then you need to realign with the plastic tool that came with the clutch. If you force it with the bolts, it will crack the clutch disc. Disregard if he mentioned this. My volume is low
you are my hero this video saved us alot of extra work
awesome, I am glad it worked out for you
+ynotbmx88 wow quick response. maybe you could give me one more tip?. we are waiting on the flywheel to be done and we can reinstall everything. how hard is the alignment tool to fit in the gap. the shaft looks like it may be in the way a little bit
+mrdauntl3ss you can shave off a bit from the end that doesn't go into the clutch if you have too. or just pull the engine forward some to give you a little extra room
+ynotbmx88 OK thanks alot. ya we maxed the engine forward and trans backwards. I will shave the hoop off. makes me want a subi now not to bad to work on
john cambell Yea its best to at least disconnect it, you dont have to completely remove it just enough to give you some room
Only question I have is where you got the bolt from to use on pulling the clutch fork out.
This method looks the easiest! What do you do about the down pipe/exhaust? Do you bother to unbolt or disconnect it?
I usually remove the down pipe just to allow better access to everything. just makes it easier
Cool. Thanks! It looked like in the video everything was still connected, but wasn't sure?
+Leezy321 yea doing this one we left it connected. it will not make one difference I just like having room underneath it really depends on how your pipes are ran
Thank you very good tips ect. Ive done many clutches just not on a Subaru yet. So I appreciate the video!
Scott
Thank you, it is a very old video and I have only done a handful before this but it at least steers you in the right direction to knock it out.
Not the rear seal. Also if you are dropping the drive shaft me might as well change the out-put shaft seal. I'm a believer of doing everything I can sense I'm pulling crap apart so I don't have to go repeat removing the trans, clutch and flywheel to change a 20 dollar part that I had access to the first time. Also if you have the plastic cove on the air oil separator its a good time to change it with the updated one. Its not a dig on you I just want to save people from the mistakes I have made in past.
dagger197dgforza good catch i made that mistake once too never again though
You left the front axels in? If so do u think I can get away with doing it on ramps
I did leave them in but I don't see why you couldn't do it on a ramp, just be careful and have a buddy with you
I'm thing to replace my clutch on a 96 Subaru impreza. Any idea of I have to remove the clutch fork in order to remove the Transmission? The bolt under the starter seems to just be spinning.
Is there enough room between them to do the rear main?
I just did the clutch on my GC8 wrx and everything looks almost exactly the same, the thing I had the most trouble with was getting the fork on the throwout bearing, is there anyway to install it on the trans before putting the trans back in?
I dont know of a way to do it but to make it easier on you when you have the tranny and engine seperated take the fork lever out and put it into the throwout bearing a couple of time just to see what it feels like then you would have a little bit more piece of mind when you are putting the lever back when everything is bolted up
What did you do to remove shift linkage
It's a little tricky to get into, but on the underside of the car you should be able to see how it works under there
I was thinking about going ACT Street performace clutch but i've been reading it has a lot of chatter any opinions? i'm probably going to go exedy stage 1 organic with an ACT streetlite flywheel
Tim Reece Currently I have an act and I have not noticed any chatter but some people could have but I haven't heard much about that but them or exedy are really great brands so you should go wrong with either.
Do you know what size the bolt you threaded into the rod to remove the clutch fork? was it a 10mm?
Liyan Wang I think it was the bolt from the intercooler mount. but none the less you will find one from the engine bay
10 mm you can use one off the timing cover
Will this be basic same process for 2017?
I did an ACT stage 2 clutch on my 2016 sti and I'm at 500 mile break in period and the car sometimes shakes badly or violently on first gear from a dead stop. is this normal?
Alonso Arellano no definitely not. has it been shaking since you first installed it or has it been getting worse from 509 miles?
Ynotsubie it only does it sometimes from a stop when I take off on first gear. I called the shop and they said it will get better after I break in the clutch or to just take it to them and they will do a test drive on the car. sometimes I can also hear am thumping doing underneath the car. almost like if the driveshaft is moving under a hard take off. not happy at all with this car man. I bought it used and I think the first owner abused this car a lot.
Alonso Arellano Now I would say, that it could be a bushing or a loose connection somewhere but being that new it's not a bushing and even if the previous owner beat on it there is only so much that could of been done. The only thing I could think is something is still loose with the clutch or flywheel. as for the drive shaft just get under there and grab everything you can g to a hand on to see if something is loose
Ynotsubie thanks for your help man
Alonso Arellano it's clutch shuttering. This is normal for the first few hundred miles.
did you leave the exhaust in?
you can leave it in place but it would be a lot easier to remove just to have the extra room
Is it the same process for an STI?
did you replace your throwout aswell? and how did you get to that? im planning on starting to split the motor and box apart tomorrow
That bearing its part of the clutch springs and yes you just place it in there and then it will pop into place
ynotbmx88 thanks heaps mate ill let you know if i get stuck lol
Just had a mechanic install mine now underneath the shifter case im hearing a tick tick tick tick tick while driving and there is no power whatsoever past 4000 rpms
Mr.NiceGuy I’m sure you aready fixed this issue but my guess would be the mechanic forgot to Torque one on the pressure plate bolts holding loaded pressure on your clutch. That tick tick tick is more than likely that bolt bouncing around. Loss of power at 4,000 rpms would be because at that RPM engine torque is to high without that bolt in place and the clutch slips due to its un equal clamping force. I hope this helped. Not trying to assume anyone is in aware just trying to spread my knowledge in hopes it helps anyone in the future
I just replaced the clutch in a 03 wrx. It worked great for about 3 days and then the throw out bearing snap ring popped out of the pressure plate. I snapped it back it, it worked for about 30 mins and popped out again. Has any one else had this problem?
Not much room to work on the clutch and flywheel... what do you torque the bolts to? How do you have the car lifted? You left out all the tricky parts lol.
Just make sure everything is tight, car is lifted with a jack, I left out the parts that should be really obvious, like how to lift a car up
drain the trans pull the shafts and put new seals in the dang thing. might as well do it right .
I have been looking at removing the pilot bearing from the fly wheel.
I will have to remove the fly wheel? to replace the bearing?
would you suggest having the stock flywheel re surfaced?
You will have to either get it resurfaced or look into getting a lightweight one, resurfacing is a lot cheaper but I do like my lightweight.
Do you have ANY idea how similar this process is for the 08-14 wrx?
i couldnt imagine it would be too different from this video. for the most part the engine and drivetrain are very similar
4 hours later?you made it sound so simple until that point. Easier to drop the box
How did you get the alignment tool in to line everything back up?
215ARW I have had times where I got the tranny back far enough to be able to get it in no problems, and then I have had other times where you would have to shave off some near the handle loop part. So it really depends on how much room you will have.
So did I miss the part where you removed the CVs or don't you have to?
ynotbmx88 is that also the same for a 2003 forester by chance?
wayside recordings I would love to give you a straight answer, but i am not sure. But with saying that I wouldn't imagine it to be too different
about how long did this take you? I have an experienced subaru tech willing to do it for me at a good price but I was thinking about doing it myself. if it's not worth the pain, I'd rather just pay to have it installed. let me know! thank you!
just for the record, I've always done my own work on all of my cars. I just don't want to be hogging up my buddy's garage for days because I'm in over my head!
+Jim McJunkin if you have the money and don't mind I would say get it done by a shop, doing this by yourself sucks and takes a long time if you don't know what you are doing, overall it's simple if you have 5 other people to help
@@jimmcjunkin5693 deep6rally is 100% correct.
If you can spare the cash to get it done in a shop with the correct garage tools - Ramps and inspection pits etc etc.. get it done in a single day.
But if you are new like I am to Subarus and Gearbox removal etc etc .. I am taking my time and doing it solo - ensure someone is close by for safety purposes and transmission trolly jack are valuable and should be used to make the job a lot easier... it can be done on a trolly Jack but beware I drop the gearbox in stages.
I think I'll be able to get it down to a day also as this won't be the first time this behemoth comes lol...
For record I've been told it's easier to pull the engine and gearbox out together ... then do what you have to do lol.
What about the CV joints?
Chasing Colorado What about them?
My question is did you keep the axles and hub assembly bolted up? Was there anything else you had to take apart to accomplish this? I'm doing the job right now lol
@@juanerut The axles can still remain in place
Ace of base
How long does a job like this typically take?
The more people you have is always better but by yourself it's going to take most the day if you haven't done one, only because there are a lot of steps to take.
Samuel Lee probably two days first time with flywheel resurface
A lot of work, but certainly doable.
How did you line up the clutch disk with no room
you have just enough room to put the tool in there. sometimes you might have to trim the tool handle a bit to get it to fit.
OK and for some reason my tranny won't come out of the bottom stud on the passenger side I'm missing the one on the driver side I will have to keep playing with it
+James Girardot yea just keep messing with the angle of the tranny and lots of wiggling
You missed alegment part
Alignment*
I hope that flyweel is not the one that you put in I think I saw that you had a new one
Yup you have to put a new one in or just get the old one resurfaced
ynotbmx88 I've heard for Subaru's you aren't supposed to resurface the flywheel.. Yes or no? Planning on doing mine soon and it would be nice to just resurface my old one.
Saucey658 you can absolutely resurface it but I am pretty sure there is a limit on how man times you can do it. So make sure you know if it has been done before
It's never been done hahaha.
This video cuts way too much. you talk like we know exactly what we're doing, and tbh we wouldn't be watching this if we knew what we were doing.
very good :)
Wish I could have came to help.
I saw the sign
"how to install clutch" doesnt show how to install the fucking clutch
wow this looks like a big pain in the ass
did you remove front axles from diff?
sweet man thanks
Knock out the retaining Pin - near the gearbox end of the axle.
Remove the x2 bolt & nut from the Suspension Strut - Careful torqued down fairly hard and make sure the brake line clip is free allowing the hub to come forward pulling the axle out the Gearbox.