Nice video, however I could not get the ball joint to pop out. Tried hammering like you do, then went and got a ball joint removal tool and still can not get it out. Not sure what to do at this point. I've been hammering on the removal tool with the impact and I'm affraid I'm gonna break the tool cuz it's bending more than it should. Never had this much trouble with getting a ball joint out before. SMH...
@@diy_yud Yeah, tried PB blaster and that did not work. However, the easy solution is don't mess with taking off the bottom ball joints, take off the one at the top. It's much easier and lets the whole mechanism fall down better to give you more access to get the axle out. I did also run into the driver side axle being stuck in the tranny. After trying slide hammer, pry bars, and everything else people posted on the internet to no avail, I finally was able to wedge a hearty chisel type opject between the CV boot casing and the tranny casing and was able to get it loose with a sledge hammer. I recommend everyone try all other ways before doing this. I think the tranny casting is aluminum, so if I had cracked that casing, it would have turned a dificult situation into a nightmare. The tranny would then have to be pulled or car scrapped due to the time and money ionvolved in pulling a tranny and replacing it.
@@nickowens6950 My top ball joint came out really easy. Maybe I just got lucky. I would have preferred the bottom one if it had come out easily, but in my case it would not. Actually, I'm gonna have to do this all over again this weekend because I'm replacing the cats on this car. The front cat is relatively easy, but the back cat won't come out without removing the passenger side axle. So I have to take it all apart again to change my rear cat. I have the 3.5 V6 motor for the record, may not be as bad with other motors. I'll try to remember to get a video of this when I do so and paste the link to the video here. So, something to consider if your cats are gonna need to be replaced soon, you might just wanna do them now while you have it all apart.
@@whycantthisbeblank my girlfriend has the 2.5L 4cyl. Thankfully with a pry bar I was able to get the top ball joint out. I did it without taking the bottom one out
@@diy_yud So for the driver side for example, if you lift the car by the side the oil will not come out? it's the first time that i do it in a automatic car, thanks again!
@@herrwil you might get a little oil coming out when popping out the axle but it will not keep draining. And its always good to check the oil level if you have leaks like if the oil seal was leaking or after the job is done. My was not leaking and i know the oil level was good.
@@diy_yud Strange, the factory nuts were a 35 on mine and when i bought the new axles , model 2010 Fusion SE 2.5L FWD, it was a 35. Do they differ in hex size fitting by year? or are they usually the same for a range of years?
FYI- this is the EXTREMELY DIFFICULT way to do this. Instead of disconnecting a ball joint which can literally be impossible, remove the upper control arm bolt, caliper bracket/rotor and save yourself about 12 hours of labor. Trust me. You WILL NOT be able to separate that one lone lower ball joint, nor is it necessary. This way of doing this job is really dumb. Sorry but it’s true.
Right to the point not a long dragged out video thank you for sharing your experience.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Think id replaced the wheel bearings while I had it all apart. That way you won't have to worry about them later on.😉
Very helpful, thank you.
Appreciate you. Very helpful.
Awesome video! I'm replacing the passenger-side axle seal on my Fusion this weekend.
A tip : you can watch movies at flixzone. Been using them for watching a lot of movies lately.
@Colby Nash yup, been watching on flixzone for months myself :D
Great instructional video. Thanks.
Great instructional video! Thanks Man!
Nice video, however I could not get the ball joint to pop out. Tried hammering like you do, then went and got a ball joint removal tool and still can not get it out. Not sure what to do at this point. I've been hammering on the removal tool with the impact and I'm affraid I'm gonna break the tool cuz it's bending more than it should. Never had this much trouble with getting a ball joint out before. SMH...
Try put wd40 and let it sit. May be it’s seized
@@diy_yud Yeah, tried PB blaster and that did not work. However, the easy solution is don't mess with taking off the bottom ball joints, take off the one at the top. It's much easier and lets the whole mechanism fall down better to give you more access to get the axle out. I did also run into the driver side axle being stuck in the tranny. After trying slide hammer, pry bars, and everything else people posted on the internet to no avail, I finally was able to wedge a hearty chisel type opject between the CV boot casing and the tranny casing and was able to get it loose with a sledge hammer. I recommend everyone try all other ways before doing this. I think the tranny casting is aluminum, so if I had cracked that casing, it would have turned a dificult situation into a nightmare. The tranny would then have to be pulled or car scrapped due to the time and money ionvolved in pulling a tranny and replacing it.
@@whycantthisbeblank how’d you get the top ball joint out? Mine won’t come out
@@nickowens6950 My top ball joint came out really easy. Maybe I just got lucky. I would have preferred the bottom one if it had come out easily, but in my case it would not. Actually, I'm gonna have to do this all over again this weekend because I'm replacing the cats on this car. The front cat is relatively easy, but the back cat won't come out without removing the passenger side axle. So I have to take it all apart again to change my rear cat. I have the 3.5 V6 motor for the record, may not be as bad with other motors. I'll try to remember to get a video of this when I do so and paste the link to the video here. So, something to consider if your cats are gonna need to be replaced soon, you might just wanna do them now while you have it all apart.
@@whycantthisbeblank my girlfriend has the 2.5L 4cyl. Thankfully with a pry bar I was able to get the top ball joint out. I did it without taking the bottom one out
Hey great video, I have a question. At the end, why do you use the chisel to bend the metal near the axel bolt?
Thats a lock. It prevents the bolt from loosing with vibration
Question was it ticking when you would turn?
hi buddy, apart from the passenger side doesn’t oil come out of the transmission? Thanks!
Nope. And since i lifted on one side and by gravity the oil will go towards the other side and won’t come out on this sode
@@diy_yud So for the driver side for example, if you lift the car by the side the oil will not come out? it's the first time that i do it in a automatic car, thanks again!
@@herrwil you might get a little oil coming out when popping out the axle but it will not keep draining. And its always good to check the oil level if you have leaks like if the oil seal was leaking or after the job is done. My was not leaking and i know the oil level was good.
Thank you! This is a great video... is it the same procedure for the driver side? Thank again!....
Yes.
Thanks man, I have a 2015 but I'm sure it's the same idea
Yes same concept. Goodluck
Was yours pooping an clicking bad when you was driving straight as well cause mine is doing that an while I’m turning :/
yes but just on turning. i changed it before it got worse.
@@diy_yud mines is doing the same when i turn and reverse also turning. 2.7 awd 2017 fusion, taking it to the dealership to see what's up
Is this the same way as the driver side?
Same principle.
Hey bud what size was that CV axle nut?
32 mm
@@diy_yud Strange, the factory nuts were a 35 on mine and when i bought the new axles , model 2010 Fusion SE 2.5L FWD, it was a 35. Do they differ in hex size fitting by year? or are they usually the same for a range of years?
@@freddiegroves9862 i should be std 32mm. older version cars up to yr 91 is 36 mm i think.
They’re a little safety on the entrance and it doesn’t wanna go through what do I do ?
what safety? on which part?
M
FYI- this is the EXTREMELY DIFFICULT way to do this. Instead of disconnecting a ball joint which can literally be impossible, remove the upper control arm bolt, caliper bracket/rotor and save yourself about 12 hours of labor. Trust me. You WILL NOT be able to separate that one lone lower ball joint, nor is it necessary. This way of doing this job is really dumb. Sorry but it’s true.
Did it, sperated the lower ball joint with a fork, took all of 25 minutes total each side.