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I am thinking that my blower motor comes on but it is blowing at the slowest speed and never changes this just happened yesterday, should i check the connections or do you have any advice?
I like that..!!!! Easy way to find out if the variable speed motor is good or bad. Time is money ..!!! 💰. This will shorten the time to troubleshoot the unit. Good video ACSERVICETECH CHANNEL. Thanks for sharing...🙏
Correct me if I'm wrong... If the blower doesn't start when you flip the switch it means 1 of 2 things: bad motor or bad module (not necessarily the motor, as stated in the video). To determine which of the two it is you have to remove the control module and ohm test the motor. If the motor is good it has to be the module. Much cheaper to replace the module than to replace both motor and module.
Here is a video on that- th-cam.com/video/x24AjKupGD4/w-d-xo.html -In my experience the module or hub is 3/4 the cost of the two together. In my opinion, they shouldn't be but that is what the manufacturers are charging. Rarely is the problem in the 3 phase motor like you said, thanks!
Hi, AC Service Tech, is there a resource to troubleshoot Heat Pump communicating boards (IEM boards), such as Honeywell THM5421C with Honeywell Tstat TH9421C1004, or Honeywell IEM board THM5421R with Tstat TH8110R1008 ? THANK YOU
Here is the link for the TecMate Pro- amzn.to/2jIP0ty -- Also if you have a good 16 pin harness or the 3.0 harness you can cut it in half and actually make two 16 pin or 3.0 harnesses if you power the correct 24v wires in the harness. I was thinking about making a video on that at some point. Thanks Keith!
You can make one of these using an old low voltage variable speed wiring harness... you just leave the plug end and follow the schematic to see which are going back to r and c... handy tool none the less
I NEED HELP!!! my furnace is not working, only thing that comes on is the blower. I have voltage going into the computer but no power from the computer to the other components. I jumped the inducer motor from the wire that goes to the door switch and it started up. please help
Great video, question I have is this on the Gentec 2.3 if the motor is 240v each leg has 120v and a good ground but shouldn’t you have 240v if you test the 2 legs together? I am only getting the 120v on each leg but NOT the 240v if I test them with both leads. I used the Zebra tester and it also didn’t turn the fan on.
I have an ECM motor in a Goodman heat pump air handler the fan runs constant only in cooling it will not do it In heat only in cooling even when it's not getting a call for cool what could that be
The TECmate only receives 24 volts off of the board so if you had a 24v power source then you don't have to hook onto the 24v power on the board. As long as you have 120 volts going to the blower with a good ground at all times, the TECmate just gives the signal to the hub on the motor telling it to turn on. If the motor turns on and does not ramp up and down and up and down but just acts normal then the motor is good. You then would need to verify that you have a call on the board thermostat terminals and not just an open safety switch somewhere that is stopping it from working. This is easier when thinking about heating as there is a sequence of operation and the blower motor is last so you know there is a call for the blower to turn on. A quick tip also is with the power off, push each 24 wire into the connector going to the motor and into the connector on the board and see if you have the same problem after you turn the system on. It is possible to have a loose connection. Thanks for the question!
Thank you very much for you information , i haven't checked my tec inspect with another motor , i just bought it especially to test this specific motor , but I'll do it for sure , thanks !!
what does that low voltage harness jump out in the motor? Are you giving 24v to pins 1&3 and 12&15 or something? I think there are 4 specific pins one needs to give 24v to
I have multiple ecm videos and on one I show which wires to power 24v to in order to make your own harness. Look up acservicetech ecm motor playlist, thanks!
I have a Lennox 90% Flash e 201 which is not connecting with blower Put my motor tester on made sure I had my constant 115 and blower did not move I change the blower motor and after a day I'm getting the same code again if you reset the furnace it'll run for a cycle or two then start flashing code again
Hi i have a 10yr old Trane XR series furnace with ecm variable speed blower. I had a grinding noise from the blower. I assumed bearings were shot. I disassembled the motor to find the glue that held the magnets to the stator/ shaft failed/seperated. I used hi temperature epoxy and glued the magnets back on to the stator/shaft. The motor now spins freely but the motor doesnt ramp up to high speed. Its a little erratic at start up then runs on low or just or just under low mode. The furnace goes out on high limit due to the fan in low mode/ or rpm just under low mode not turning fast enough. It trys but never gets to high mode. Any idea? Time for a new motor or do i change the ecm/computer board part of the motor? Thank you for posting. I hope you can reply. Like subbed notifications on.
Usually the module by itself is very close to the price of the motor and module. It sounds like you would need a new one since you can't adjust the speeds, thanks!
Question: I live in South Florida. I have a 2.5 Ton Rheem Air Conditioner. It is a 5 variable blower [low, low med, med, med high, high]. What speed should the blower be set to? The AC tech initially left it on high as the default... but then put the blower speed to low. I found forums that if the blower is to high, it will take out less humidity.
Variable speed motors are programmed specifically for that model number air handler. You would need to find the manual for that model number or look it up online and then set it accordingly. It is best to set that for 400cfm per ton so 1000cfm, thanks
You can use a supco multimeter to check these. I am not sure what model number you have. Supco makes a variety of testers for different applications, thanks
It is actually based on torque due to how loaded up the blower wheel is due to air molecules. It is set for a certain air volume from the manufacturer of the equipment even though it is manufactured by Genteq who has basically has a monopoly on making the motors. These motors will ramp up to try to attain the same amount of air volume even if there is friction in the duct due to undersizing. The problem comes in when someone does not change their filter or the duct collapses and the blower motor tries harder and harder to push the air until it likely breaks. This is unlike the psc motor when there is a duct restriction. The blower motor turns faster due to not being loaded up by air molecules but the air volume is very low, amperage is low and there is not as much of a problem with the motor burning up, thanks Mark!
Hi there how are you doing hope everything is going well I was watching a one of the videos about a ecm motor tester . My question is the subco Metter does the same test to test the winning and other things the ground ect.... Again thank you for the excellent work and your time Ziyad Toronto
Thank you very much for your time of your explication , let me tell you little bit more of my situation, the tool that i got is like yours but mine says "tec inspect " (should be the same ) , i have 120v coming to my variable speed motor and is connected to the motor, i hooked my tec inspect to the board having 24v and light ON , and on the other end , the 16pin connected to the motor , I switched the tec inspect ON , but nothing happens with the motor ( doesn't spin ) what is telling me ? I have bad motor ? Also i opened and checked the motor winding , the motor isn't grounded and have around 10omh the three legs , and i didnt see any parts fried on the module . Thank you in advance
If you have tested this blower motor at the thermostat with g fan and y cooling and it didn't turn on and for your 2nd test as long as the tool you were using is putting out the 24v on the correct wires then the motor hub is bad. I have had some hubs that were bad but not visually. I have also had many where the problem was in the 16 pin wiring harness but you are taking that harness out of play with the tech inspect. It also sounds like you checked the 3 phase motor windings appropriately. If you were concerned if your tech inspect was working properly maybe you could try it on another furnace if you have access to another. Other than that you sound correct. Thanks
Hey Troy for more information on that and how to make your own tester, check out the 8 videos in the "acservicetech ecm motor troubleshooting playlist" thanks
I think there is one other thing you should have mentioned. With a split system the 24 Volts can be coming from either or both units, so I would turn off the power to both units so you don't accidentally fry the transformer while connecting the 24 volt leads of the tester..
Hey UtwoBed, in residential light commercial, only very few systems have a 24v transformer at the outdoor unit but they do not get connected to the indoor blower as then there would be the possibility of double feeding a relay. Most outdoor 24v come from the indoor unit, thanks
Yes, two transformers is rare, but you said it yourself, 24 volts comes from the indoor unit. If you are testing an ECM condenser fan motor turning off the breaker for that will not kill your 24 volt control voltage feeding from the air handler. It's easy to get careless with those big alligator clips and short out the transformer, circuit board, or blow it's fuse if it even has one.
Yes that is completely correct if you are at the outdoor unit. I thought you were talking the 24v from the outdoor unit coming to the indoor unit. Yes you are correct, just shut everything off to be safe, thanks UTWOBED!
With the power off you would still check to see if the blower wheel spins free, is tightened on the shaft and that there is no rocking due to bad bearings. Yes you would still need to check these things first on any type of blower motor. Thank you very much!
All that checks out I also check the motor resistance and everything checks out no burn parts on the control module either. I am and a licensed electrician and also an industrial maintenance electrician everything seems good mechanical and electrical except for electronically I'm thinking that the board has a problem what do you think?
Did you test this with a tecmate? The motor is always hot 24/7 with line voltage. You need to power the motor in the case of the 16 pin wiring harness with the two appropriate 24v hots and two commons as signal wires. The tecmate makes it simple so the wrong ones don't get powered. Are you saying after testing with the tecmate that the blower motor is not working?
I just removed the blower motor and held the door switch to watch the motor try and start up. it just moves back and forth. So i thought maybe there was a capacitor problem. So i took the motor hub housing that has the thermistor in it off/apart. And everything in there smells good and looks good. Motor it self has no problems when checking the windings with a multimeter. So im wondering if the motor and housing were good. then what would be the second place to check on the furnace main board? I know i need to get a techmate tester on it. But again lets just say everything checked out with the techmate and worked. Then where would a person look next for troubleshooting? Also I subscribed to your channel.
If the tecmate did turn the motor on and the motor did not fluctuate in speed up and down and up and down but just built up to a steady speed then it is either the 16 pin wiring harness or the board. Sometimes the harness connectors are not making a good connection. You should push in on every single wire in the harness and then turn the power back on and see if it works. Sometimes I do try to squeeze the female connectors a little bit too in order to make sure they are connecting onto the board. So anyway, if the tecmate turns the blower on then the board is bad after checking the wiring harness. No more testing needs to occur if you are always fed with 120v to the motor hub. It does however sound like you are receiving a signal to the motor though if you see it move back then frontwards. That is what the variable speed blower always does before starting in the correct direction.
This video was on troubleshooting Genteq ecm variable speed motors not ecm X-13 motors. If you want to see testing for ecm x-13 motors then search "acservicetech x-13" thanks
Usually you can set the speeds with the dip switches on the control board with the power off for variable speed blower motors. You would need the installation instructions of that model in order to do this.
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I am thinking that my blower motor comes on but it is blowing at the slowest speed and never changes this just happened yesterday, should i check the connections or do you have any advice?
I like that..!!!! Easy way to find out if the variable speed motor is good or bad. Time is money ..!!! 💰. This will shorten the time to troubleshoot the unit. Good video ACSERVICETECH CHANNEL. Thanks for sharing...🙏
Excellent videos! Just found your web site a few days ago. Watchem' ever night. Thanks!
Thanks, glad to hear!
Correct me if I'm wrong... If the blower doesn't start when you flip the switch it means 1 of 2 things: bad motor or bad module (not necessarily the motor, as stated in the video).
To determine which of the two it is you have to remove the control module and ohm test the motor. If the motor is good it has to be the module.
Much cheaper to replace the module than to replace both motor and module.
Here is a video on that- th-cam.com/video/x24AjKupGD4/w-d-xo.html -In my experience the module or hub is 3/4 the cost of the two together. In my opinion, they shouldn't be but that is what the manufacturers are charging. Rarely is the problem in the 3 phase motor like you said, thanks!
Then go back in a week and replace a old burned motor
Super thanks bro. for your time. I always wondered how to test those variable speed motors, and now i know. I greatly appreciate this video.
Thanks Mikey Angel!
Hi, AC Service Tech, is there a resource to troubleshoot Heat Pump communicating boards (IEM boards), such as Honeywell THM5421C with Honeywell Tstat TH9421C1004, or Honeywell IEM board THM5421R with Tstat TH8110R1008 ? THANK YOU
I am unfamiliar with any resources on that topic, sorry a lot of my troubleshooting experience is from just doing it, thanks
I am definitely going to be getting this tool. Thanks so much for sharing. Looking forward to more great videos enjoy them so much very helpful.
Here is the link for the TecMate Pro- amzn.to/2jIP0ty -- Also if you have a good 16 pin harness or the 3.0 harness you can cut it in half and actually make two 16 pin or 3.0 harnesses if you power the correct 24v wires in the harness. I was thinking about making a video on that at some point. Thanks Keith!
Good video, thanks.
You can make one of these using an old low voltage variable speed wiring harness... you just leave the plug end and follow the schematic to see which are going back to r and c... handy tool none the less
I did exactly what you were saying in this video thanks- th-cam.com/video/lKsIgjEJDII/w-d-xo.html
I NEED HELP!!! my furnace is not working, only thing that comes on is the blower. I have voltage going into the computer but no power from the computer to the other components. I jumped the inducer motor from the wire that goes to the door switch and it started up. please help
Another great informative video. THANKS FRIEND
Thanks Ronald!
Good information, very nicely presented. I appreciate all the videos on your channel.
Thank you, I am glad you appreciate the videos!
What if it only stays in low never goes to high
Normal
Great video, question I have is this on the Gentec 2.3 if the motor is 240v each leg has 120v and a good ground but shouldn’t you have 240v if you test the 2 legs together? I am only getting the 120v on each leg but NOT the 240v if I test them with both leads. I used the Zebra tester and it also didn’t turn the fan on.
It sounds like each of the 120v is from one leg of the breaker box and not both legs, thanks
I have an ECM motor in a Goodman heat pump air handler the fan runs constant only in cooling it will not do it In heat only in cooling even when it's not getting a call for cool what could that be
Good information , what about if the blower motor doesnt starts with the TECmate PRO , bad circuit board ???
The TECmate only receives 24 volts off of the board so if you had a 24v power source then you don't have to hook onto the 24v power on the board. As long as you have 120 volts going to the blower with a good ground at all times, the TECmate just gives the signal to the hub on the motor telling it to turn on. If the motor turns on and does not ramp up and down and up and down but just acts normal then the motor is good. You then would need to verify that you have a call on the board thermostat terminals and not just an open safety switch somewhere that is stopping it from working. This is easier when thinking about heating as there is a sequence of operation and the blower motor is last so you know there is a call for the blower to turn on. A quick tip also is with the power off, push each 24 wire into the connector going to the motor and into the connector on the board and see if you have the same problem after you turn the system on. It is possible to have a loose connection. Thanks for the question!
Thank you very much for you information , i haven't checked my tec inspect with another motor , i just bought it especially to test this specific motor , but I'll do it for sure , thanks !!
Glad to help!
what does that low voltage harness jump out in the motor? Are you giving 24v to pins 1&3 and 12&15 or something? I think there are 4 specific pins one needs to give 24v to
I have multiple ecm videos and on one I show which wires to power 24v to in order to make your own harness. Look up acservicetech ecm motor playlist, thanks!
I have a Lennox 90% Flash e 201 which is not connecting with blower
Put my motor tester on made sure I had my constant 115 and blower did not move I change the blower motor and after a day I'm getting the same code again if you reset the furnace it'll run for a cycle or two then start flashing code again
Hi i have a 10yr old Trane XR series furnace with ecm variable speed blower. I had a grinding noise from the blower. I assumed bearings were shot. I disassembled the motor to find the glue that held the magnets to the stator/ shaft failed/seperated. I used hi temperature epoxy and glued the magnets back on to the stator/shaft. The motor now spins freely but the motor doesnt ramp up to high speed. Its a little erratic at start up then runs on low or just or just under low mode. The furnace goes out on high limit due to the fan in low mode/ or rpm just under low mode not turning fast enough. It trys but never gets to high mode. Any idea? Time for a new motor or do i change the ecm/computer board part of the motor? Thank you for posting. I hope you can reply. Like subbed notifications on.
Usually the module by itself is very close to the price of the motor and module. It sounds like you would need a new one since you can't adjust the speeds, thanks!
Question: I live in South Florida. I have a 2.5 Ton Rheem Air Conditioner. It is a 5 variable blower [low, low med, med, med high, high]. What speed should the blower be set to? The AC tech initially left it on high as the default... but then put the blower speed to low. I found forums that if the blower is to high, it will take out less humidity.
Variable speed motors are programmed specifically for that model number air handler. You would need to find the manual for that model number or look it up online and then set it accordingly. It is best to set that for 400cfm per ton so 1000cfm, thanks
Is this only for genteq motors ?
I tried once on a Goodman Broad-Ocean motor (same connector as ECM 3.0) it worked.
this is a great video. thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Josue!
Hi there my question was can you still use the supco Metter to check the blower motor
You can use a supco multimeter to check these. I am not sure what model number you have. Supco makes a variety of testers for different applications, thanks
can you please explain how does the variable speed motor adjust its speed automatically? is it based on the return air temp? thanks.
It is actually based on torque due to how loaded up the blower wheel is due to air molecules. It is set for a certain air volume from the manufacturer of the equipment even though it is manufactured by Genteq who has basically has a monopoly on making the motors. These motors will ramp up to try to attain the same amount of air volume even if there is friction in the duct due to undersizing. The problem comes in when someone does not change their filter or the duct collapses and the blower motor tries harder and harder to push the air until it likely breaks. This is unlike the psc motor when there is a duct restriction. The blower motor turns faster due to not being loaded up by air molecules but the air volume is very low, amperage is low and there is not as much of a problem with the motor burning up, thanks Mark!
Hi there how are you doing hope everything is going well I was watching a one of the videos about a ecm motor tester .
My question is the subco Metter does the same test to test the winning and other things the ground ect....
Again thank you for the excellent work and your time
Ziyad Toronto
Are you asking a question about a supco meter?
Thank you very much for your time of your explication , let me tell you little bit more of my situation, the tool that i got is like yours but mine says "tec inspect " (should be the same ) , i have 120v coming to my variable speed motor and is connected to the motor, i hooked my tec inspect to the board having 24v and light ON , and on the other end , the 16pin connected to the motor , I switched the tec inspect ON , but nothing happens with the motor ( doesn't spin ) what is telling me ? I have bad motor ?
Also i opened and checked the motor winding , the motor isn't grounded and have around 10omh the three legs , and i didnt see any parts fried on the module . Thank you in advance
If you have tested this blower motor at the thermostat with g fan and y cooling and it didn't turn on and for your 2nd test as long as the tool you were using is putting out the 24v on the correct wires then the motor hub is bad. I have had some hubs that were bad but not visually. I have also had many where the problem was in the 16 pin wiring harness but you are taking that harness out of play with the tech inspect. It also sounds like you checked the 3 phase motor windings appropriately. If you were concerned if your tech inspect was working properly maybe you could try it on another furnace if you have access to another. Other than that you sound correct. Thanks
What terminals did you clamp this to? Thanks
Thanks for the Comment! Black to the R terminal and the Blue to the Common. I added a note in the video now! Thanks!
You can do a go no go test with a 9v battery too.
which pins does the techmate give 24v to???
Hey Troy for more information on that and how to make your own tester, check out the 8 videos in the "acservicetech ecm motor troubleshooting playlist" thanks
Very professional, unlike my channel, thanks for the tip.😎
Thanks for the Comment!
another great video.
Your Comments are very much Appreciated!
I think there is one other thing you should have mentioned. With a split system the 24 Volts can be coming from either or both units, so I would turn off the power to both units so you don't accidentally fry the transformer while connecting the 24 volt leads of the tester..
Hey UtwoBed, in residential light commercial, only very few systems have a 24v transformer at the outdoor unit but they do not get connected to the indoor blower as then there would be the possibility of double feeding a relay. Most outdoor 24v come from the indoor unit, thanks
Yes, two transformers is rare, but you said it yourself, 24 volts comes from the indoor unit. If you are testing an ECM condenser fan motor turning off the breaker for that will not kill your 24 volt control voltage feeding from the air handler. It's easy to get careless with those big alligator clips and short out the transformer, circuit board, or blow it's fuse if it even has one.
Yes that is completely correct if you are at the outdoor unit. I thought you were talking the 24v from the outdoor unit coming to the indoor unit. Yes you are correct, just shut everything off to be safe, thanks UTWOBED!
The only thing is what if the motor rocks back and forth. But there are no signs of and burned parts on the variable speed controller?
With the power off you would still check to see if the blower wheel spins free, is tightened on the shaft and that there is no rocking due to bad bearings. Yes you would still need to check these things first on any type of blower motor. Thank you very much!
All that checks out I also check the motor resistance and everything checks out no burn parts on the control module either. I am and a licensed electrician and also an industrial maintenance electrician everything seems good mechanical and electrical except for electronically I'm thinking that the board has a problem what do you think?
Did you test this with a tecmate? The motor is always hot 24/7 with line voltage. You need to power the motor in the case of the 16 pin wiring harness with the two appropriate 24v hots and two commons as signal wires. The tecmate makes it simple so the wrong ones don't get powered. Are you saying after testing with the tecmate that the blower motor is not working?
I just removed the blower motor and held the door switch to watch the motor try and start up. it just moves back and forth. So i thought maybe there was a capacitor problem. So i took the motor hub housing that has the thermistor in it off/apart. And everything in there smells good and looks good. Motor it self has no problems when checking the windings with a multimeter. So im wondering if the motor and housing were good. then what would be the second place to check on the furnace main board? I know i need to get a techmate tester on it. But again lets just say everything checked out with the techmate and worked. Then where would a person look next for troubleshooting? Also I subscribed to your channel.
If the tecmate did turn the motor on and the motor did not fluctuate in speed up and down and up and down but just built up to a steady speed then it is either the 16 pin wiring harness or the board. Sometimes the harness connectors are not making a good connection. You should push in on every single wire in the harness and then turn the power back on and see if it works. Sometimes I do try to squeeze the female connectors a little bit too in order to make sure they are connecting onto the board. So anyway, if the tecmate turns the blower on then the board is bad after checking the wiring harness. No more testing needs to occur if you are always fed with 120v to the motor hub. It does however sound like you are receiving a signal to the motor though if you see it move back then frontwards. That is what the variable speed blower always does before starting in the correct direction.
Could you not skip buying this tool by just checking for power on the incoming 24 volt harness?
Absolutely, just jump out the same terminals in the harness plug with 24v. This is just a quick tool for the tech. They are not that expensive. Thanks
great videos I'm very impressed thank you for your knowledge
Thank you and glad you are enjoying the videos!
Ri
*** According to the Tecmate pro user manual it does not support ECM 2.5
Thank you so much ser!!
Thanks Julio!
Thanks
Thanks quang nguyen!
thanks for this ...
Thanks!
What did you mean your not going to need this for X-13?
This video was on troubleshooting Genteq ecm variable speed motors not ecm X-13 motors. If you want to see testing for ecm x-13 motors then search "acservicetech x-13" thanks
acservicetech ok thanks
tester is nothing more than a 24VAC switch that switches the low voltage and can be made from a used 120/24 volt transformer
Gee thanks for the tinitus....
I thought x13 WAS a variable speed motor
They are both ecm motors but x-13 is not variable but has set speeds. Look up some of Genteq's youtube videos for more info, thanks
my blower is got the same speed i cant slow it down!
Usually you can set the speeds with the dip switches on the control board with the power off for variable speed blower motors. You would need the installation instructions of that model in order to do this.