It's been so long since I've worked on bikes just seeing the loosening of the crank bolts really takes me back I think I used to open up every new or used bike I bought just to grease everything up Good times, just bought a bike again, looking forward to the weekend to set it up!
That was fantastic. That was a really helpful step-by-step guide. I really like my local bike shop and will use it for removing and pressing in my new headset but I wanted to try this bottom bracket myself. I have the exact same job, going from square taper to external. I'm sure this would cost double for what I spent on tools. Can't wait to try. Thank you for the guide as it gave me the confidence I needed.
just discovered your video and find them really practical. especially when you do the work live rather than pre-do the task as some videos do. With your videos, like the fork removal one that i watched earlier,the viewer gets a true picture of what the task involves particularly with seized in parts thanks
Thanks first for showing that it's possible, and then for showing that it's actually not that complicated. Got the old riveted together steel square taper crankset and BB replaced on my MTB with a new Deore Hollowtech II BB. Took about 45 minutes start to finish, including hunting through my toolbox.
I very rarely comment on videos, but in the midst of a bunch of confusing technical noise concerning BB's, this video made it super clear and easy to understand. Thank you so much!
I'll be upgrading my bike's drivetrain from a MTB gearing setup to either a 1x or 2-ring road type deal with an ultimate goal of installing a Quark (spyder) power meter. FWIW, bike has a 73mm BB shell. This and other related videos of yours will be a very helpful aid if I choose to buy the necessary tools and do the work myself. Thanks so much... feeling inspired!!
Thank you. That's really clear instruction and this is exactly what I am trying to do with my bike, replacing the square taper BB with another BB for my new crankset.
God belss you RJ the Bike Guy! I could not figure out why my brand spanking new GXP BB and Apex cranckset didn't work properly, or at all even though I had followed all the manufaturer instruction regardin compatibility and installation. Removing the spacers did it. Cheers!
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thank you! I wish I had found this video before. Or, much rather, that the manufacturer would take as much care about their instructions as do TH-cam enthusiasts. Your generousity in sharing your detailed knowledge is invalubale for people like me (novis cyclist). Best wishes!
I prefer sealed bottom brackets because I think they last longer and are much smoother. Also, make sure you put a sealed BB in the correct way round. I had an idiot moment recently where it I couldn't get a sealed BB to screw into a bike frame, I eventually realised I was trying to put it in the wrong way round. lol
+john smith Not only that but square taper cranks can take the abuse of everyday riding for people like messengers & food delivery people. You can go years before changing the cranks and bottom bracket whereas with most external bb's you'll be lucky if they last 6-9 months. Sram Omniums are known for their shitty bb's. Plus I've had friends get hurt because they are riding and one of the crankarms falls off with these types of cranksets. I'll gladly choose square taper over these any day.
+dapster Sounds like some shitty install on those external BB's if crankarms are falling off. I've been running BB30 on my road and triathlon bikes with GXP on my cross bike with no problems. My triathlon bike by itself has over 3,500 miles on it and I'm still running the same BB. I do prefer ceramic bearings over steel as they're less apt to warp, but friends have been running steel bearing BB30's and GXP's for thousands of miles with no issues. If you like square taper then stick with them, hopefully nobody is going to dog on you for it as every rider has their preferences, that's the beauty of this sport.
Sam Anderson GXP's, the exact type of BB that I am talking about. 3500 miles in what period of time? I do that in about 5 weeks, not 6 months as a courier. Plus no one has ever "dogged" me for using square taper. In fact, quite the opposite (you were right. Square taper lasts so much longer than what I've been using. Why didn't I just stay using ST? Oh that's right, looks.) As far as a shitty install it's far from it. Then explain to me why I've had the same crankset and BB since 2008 - installed by the same exact shop as most of the people I know who use Omniums - and yet it seems like every 3-4 months someone I know has had problem after problem with the GXP bottom brackets such as cracking, loosening, or failing. It's not the person installing it as much as it's the product themselves.
Easiest bottom bracket removal ever. I've had nothing bit issues with old, seized up BBs in old 90s bikes. Finally broke down and got a big impact driver from Harbor Freight to finish the job.
Nice real world videos thanks for posting im using this video to replace my 9 spd Sora with a 105 5800 group. Camppy crankset is nice that should be a stout a CX bike when you're done
I love upgading old unique frames that are in good shape with newer technology. The guys at the bike shop like to look at me like I have 3 heads for dumping so much time and money into a frame worth $60. But if its a rare frame in good shape, why not ?? Facing, is that just for press fit cups ?
Yeah, a lot of stuff says face the BB shell. The tool expensive, and even my local bike shop said it really didn't need to be done unless there was some sort of damage or reason why they wouldn't be flat.
Thank you for your professional advice. I watched a 28 minute bottom bracket tutorial "Bicycle Bottom Bracket & Crankset Types Compatibility Identification Spec. Guide." Excellent, excellent info !! I'm between XTR FC M970 or FSA SL-K. The XTR's I believe are lighter. But I have SL-K bars and stem. Any suggestions ? Anni headed in the right direction ? I know it's kind of subjective. But you know more than I do.
Hey I am trying to follow along with this hybrid to cyclocross build, but the videos are not numbered, have similar titles, or on a playlist together. How many videos are in this build? Could you organize them in a way to watch this bike be completed?
RJ The Bike Guy Have a question for you. Bought a 2013 Masi Uno early Spring, I want to put a new bottom bracket and crankset on. Will a SRAM Omnium BB and crankset fit?
Hi Rj I have new road bike steel frame only I prepare to put old bottom bracket instead new sealed bottom bracket. give me some brand & what size fit for my steel frame. Thanks
Hi RJ I like the reviews on how to remove and replace bottom crank wheel drive and how to remove and replace the BB on all different types of BB thank you and you explain it very well and I have subscribed to your TH-cam channel thanks from Mark from the UK England
Since you were using a cartridge BB, by converting to an external bearing kind, would the inherent chainline of the bike be altered? How do you fix this?
Great video. I know it’s kind of straightforward but here goes , What if I’m going to convert back to square taper from bb30. Any thing I should be worried about / know beforehand. B.B. shell measured 68mm Thanks in advance
I am upgrading a 1980s Motobecane with a square tape BB in a Sram GXP team English, but the drive side doesn't thread ni completely. It just threads in half way or less. The non-drive side goes in completely. Any suggestion?
Hi I commented on another video of yours, but this is the exact set up I'm looking for.. I currently have a 1 piece crankset.. With the adapters you installed, can I achieve the GXP cranks? Thank you
I noticed you went from a 3x crankset to a 2x crankset but didn’t change your derailleur. I’m guessing you don’t have a hand trigger/clicking style derailleur or do you? If you do have a trigger/clicking style then I assume you would need to change the derailleur as well, right?
The limit screws on the front derailleur will limit how far the shifter will shift. You can use a triple shifter with a double, and will work fine. I did eventually replace the FD. Maybe a couple times I can't remember. At least once when I went to a compact crankset.
Almost certain you need a specific frame for BB 30 as they're press fit check on the gmbn video about them but I don't think they can be made cross compatible
Would using an anti-seize compound like Permatex be equivalent to using bike specific grease on bike threaded fittings, such as BB retaining rings and bolts? Based on 25 years of working on cars anti-seize has been my go-to for thread treatment. Could it be that a bike isn't subject to the higher temperatures so the grease is fine, given the convenience of having it at hand? Or is there better performance (water resistance?) to the grease? And THANK YOU for the excellent videos! In the last few months I've jumped into working on my 12 year old MTB and found I really like it, with your excellent videos to guide me around the tricky stuff!
In my case on a Boardman Sport, the drive side crank was removed clockwise and the left side anti clockwise. Also, definitely recommend heavy duty torque wrench to remove. Luckily I have a 60" Torque wrench - would not have got it off without it.
@@gilloyd3806 I just got done doing it this week. Switched it over to Sram Apex 1, but kept the original brakes (not levers or cables, but actual brakes), then went to an aeromax wheel wheelset (had to stretch the rear an extra ~2 mm to fit it in, as it was nominal at 126 mm spacing initially, and the new wheels were 130 mm, as I wanted to go to freehub vs the original freewheel), and threw panaracer gravel kings on the wheels. Love it overall, quick picture here pbs.twimg.com/media/DvYJBqGUwAAEmpS.jpg:large
I have had trouble with GXP cranksets creaking. I have a 68 mm BB with the two spacers. Bike is 13 yo on its third GXP BB. I read that the left side bearing and spacer if fitted sets the horizontal position of the crank axle. The right side spacer seems less important (and you noted it hindered rotation). I have removed the left side spacer and there is noticeably less creaking. But the lack of left side spacer moved the whole crankset to the right and I had to readjust the derailleurs. But as I write this, I think that it would have been better to remove the right side spacer. That would have the same effect without disturbing derailleur adjustment. thanks for videos. Any tips on GXP creaking would be helpful.....
Update: I conclude that the two spacers are necessary with a 68mm wide BB shell, bringing with up to 73 mm. Without them the drive side bearings are not in contact with the shiny part of the axle and the chainwheels are shifted to the right, so altering the chain line. Note that it is the left side bearing that sets the horizontal position of the axle. Still get some creaking, so have not yet found the solution....
Hi Rj I have a concern what if i change 48/38/28 crank to 44/32/22 crank do i get any problem on my chain? should I make them shorter or i leave them as it is?
Tank you for your "tricks off the trade." I am an intermediate MTBr and have a Bianchi with threaded square taper and am beginning modifications. Question: Do you have any advice on good, quality and cool crankset so I don't have to upgrade BB yet? Sorry this might be a broad inquiry,,, Thankg again and please see doing what you're doing. Darryl
Hi.. some suggest that we need to get the shell faced before changing to external BB like GXP. any thought on this? I saw you just did it without facing. great video. thanks.
Regarding the use of spacers: it depends on the installed crankset, frametype and the resulting chainline. For MTB cranksets like Shimano Deore XT or similar the optimal chainline is located further apart from the middle of the bike and therefore has to be adjusted with spacers if you have a bottom bracket that measures 68mm. For road type cranksets like 105 the ideal chainline is located nearer to the bikes middle plane. If your road bike frame has a 68mm bottom bracket you dont need to use spacers.
thought the threads were normal and instead of unscrewing BB i torqued it down pretty hard hopefully it didnt damage the threads the heck did they need to put different threads
Thanks a lot. What are the realistic advantages of doing such a retrofit; as I have an old racing bicycle with an older BB than that, and I could replace it, if it is cost effectve.. Saludos de Costa Rica, Hasta la vista...
Hey again RJ! Do you think that by gauging your effort visually one could approximately reach the 40-45 NM tightening range both when attempting to tighten the BB and the crank arm without a torque wrench? It seemed like you were going pretty hard on the BB and even harder on the crank arm, and that on top of it you were using an extra long tool for leverage... So i'm thinking, if i'm going at both the BB and crank arm "vigorously" with shorter tools but without being a maniac, the risk of over-tightening seems very minimal, if anything wouldn't there be a risk of under-tightening? What's your take on proceeding without a torque wrench?
I doubt you can judge torque visually. Hard to say. You want them tight, but if you go too hard you can strip the threads. Not tighten enough, and the parts can come loose.
right, I don't have a torque wrench but am I right in thinking if I used the corrected weight and measured the distance from the hub I can apply the exact torque to a bolt, ie 12 inch crank wrench (30.5cm), therefore weight required at the end of it to get 40nm would be; 40/((100/30.5)*9.8) = 1.36kg at 12inchs from centre of bolt; so if I poured out 1.36 litres of water into a bottle and hung it from the hub at 12 inches it would check if the bolt is at the right torque right (when at 90* to the floor), because the bolt would barely move right ?
hi just wondering if a square tapered is better than a gxp bottom bracket and if you change the square to gxp like in video can use back the square tapered cranks on the gxp bottom bracket ?
Generally GXP is better than square tapered as the bearings are external, farther apart, so more stable, and larger since they are not restricted to the space inside the shell.
Hey rj. I am absolutely loving your videos. What kind of bottom bracket was the old square one? Was it a shimano bb-un26? If it was this is an upgrade I'm going to do! Is the new one quite tough? I'm wanting to make my bad one that's quite good you see.
I want to do the same on a mountain bike so I measured the bb shell at 68 is that all the measurements I need to get the new one ? And what crank did you use ?
Sorry didn't mean to piss you off. Was just didnt know since the video was older if you would see it. Then I heard you say Facebook so I went there. I'm not a bike mechanic so I'm learning as i go. The bb is priced good on Amazon but can't find an affordable match. Im not computer savvy.
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I want to see how to remove it please
@@oscarpetrus666 Just watch how it is installed. Then do the opposite.
Thank u.
RJ The Bike Guy and the Park Tools tutorials are the best on TH-cam.
This guy is actually excellent. His speech makes it so easy to follow the steps.
+Pak Nagasing I agree. Too many of these YT videos have poor acoustics. Can't hear half of what they're saying or droning. RJ does a very nice job.
Yup, he is good!
It's been so long since I've worked on bikes
just seeing the loosening of the crank bolts really takes me back
I think I used to open up every new or used bike I bought just to grease everything up
Good times, just bought a bike again, looking forward to the weekend to set it up!
Of all the bicycle channels I have found yours is the most helpful! THANK YOU!
That was fantastic. That was a really helpful step-by-step guide. I really like my local bike shop and will use it for removing and pressing in my new headset but I wanted to try this bottom bracket myself. I have the exact same job, going from square taper to external. I'm sure this would cost double for what I spent on tools. Can't wait to try. Thank you for the guide as it gave me the confidence I needed.
just discovered your video and find them really practical. especially when you do the work live rather than pre-do the task as some videos do. With your videos, like the fork removal one that i watched earlier,the viewer gets a true picture of what the task involves particularly with seized in parts
thanks
Thanks first for showing that it's possible, and then for showing that it's actually not that complicated. Got the old riveted together steel square taper crankset and BB replaced on my MTB with a new Deore Hollowtech II BB. Took about 45 minutes start to finish, including hunting through my toolbox.
I very rarely comment on videos, but in the midst of a bunch of confusing technical noise concerning BB's, this video made it super clear and easy to understand. Thank you so much!
I'll be upgrading my bike's drivetrain from a MTB gearing setup to either a 1x or 2-ring road type deal with an ultimate goal of installing a Quark (spyder) power meter. FWIW, bike has a 73mm BB shell. This and other related videos of yours will be a very helpful aid if I choose to buy the necessary tools and do the work myself. Thanks so much... feeling inspired!!
Thank you. That's really clear instruction and this is exactly what I am trying to do with my bike, replacing the square taper BB with another BB for my new crankset.
I should call you RJ My Bike Guy. Thanks a lot for posting that, I can now go in my garage in peace!
Liked and subscribed...new mtb guy!! super clear and showing all the steps...thank you!
Great job... I really like watching all your videos, they are very helpful, thank you!
Perfect tutorial. Thank you, Sir!
God belss you RJ the Bike Guy! I could not figure out why my brand spanking new GXP BB and Apex cranckset didn't work properly, or at all even though I had followed all the manufaturer instruction regardin compatibility and installation. Removing the spacers did it.
Cheers!
th-cam.com/video/D1UHtUt_V2Q/w-d-xo.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thank you! I wish I had found this video before. Or, much rather, that the manufacturer would take as much care about their instructions as do TH-cam enthusiasts. Your generousity in sharing your detailed knowledge is invalubale for people like me (novis cyclist). Best wishes!
Love this! Thanks for all the videos! They really demystify working on your bike(s)!
thank you....appreciate all the hard work you put into your videos
I’m about to convert my square bb to bb52 Shimano, but I’m still looking for few tools. Thanks for the video very helpful
Thank you sir, Great video, I am going to use your tips tomorrow, on my mountain bike.
I prefer sealed bottom brackets because I think they last longer and are much smoother. Also, make sure you put a sealed BB in the correct way round. I had an idiot moment recently where it I couldn't get a sealed BB to screw into a bike frame, I eventually realised I was trying to put it in the wrong way round. lol
+john smith Not only that but square taper cranks can take the abuse of everyday riding for people like messengers & food delivery people. You can go years before changing the cranks and bottom bracket whereas with most external bb's you'll be lucky if they last 6-9 months. Sram Omniums are known for their shitty bb's. Plus I've had friends get hurt because they are riding and one of the crankarms falls off with these types of cranksets. I'll gladly choose square taper over these any day.
+dapster Sounds like some shitty install on those external BB's if crankarms are falling off. I've been running BB30 on my road and triathlon bikes with GXP on my cross bike with no problems. My triathlon bike by itself has over 3,500 miles on it and I'm still running the same BB. I do prefer ceramic bearings over steel as they're less apt to warp, but friends have been running steel bearing BB30's and GXP's for thousands of miles with no issues. If you like square taper then stick with them, hopefully nobody is going to dog on you for it as every rider has their preferences, that's the beauty of this sport.
dapster
Sam Anderson GXP's, the exact type of BB that I am talking about. 3500 miles in what period of time? I do that in about 5 weeks, not 6 months as a courier. Plus no one has ever "dogged" me for using square taper. In fact, quite the opposite (you were right. Square taper lasts so much longer than what I've been using. Why didn't I just stay using ST? Oh that's right, looks.) As far as a shitty install it's far from it. Then explain to me why I've had the same crankset and BB since 2008 - installed by the same exact shop as most of the people I know who use Omniums - and yet it seems like every 3-4 months someone I know has had problem after problem with the GXP bottom brackets such as cracking, loosening, or failing. It's not the person installing it as much as it's the product themselves.
Maximillian Chong What happened? Cat got your tongue?
Easiest bottom bracket removal ever. I've had nothing bit issues with old, seized up BBs in old 90s bikes. Finally broke down and got a big impact driver from Harbor Freight to finish the job.
This is just what I needed. thx a ton RJ.
great video RJ THE BIKE GUY really loving your videos im doing a bicycle mechanic course in april so there giving me a lot of help
Great work RJ!
This is exactly what I needed!! Thank you a thousand times sir!
Love all your wonderful and concise videos, thanks a whole bunch.
Nice real world videos thanks for posting im using this video to replace my 9 spd Sora with a 105 5800 group. Camppy crankset is nice that should be a stout a CX bike when you're done
You're the man.... did exactly this with your guidance.
I love upgading old unique frames that are in good shape with newer technology. The guys at the bike shop like to look at me like I have 3 heads for dumping so much time and money into a frame worth $60. But if its a rare frame in good shape, why not ?? Facing, is that just for press fit cups ?
+christopher shara Do you have a reason to believe the BB shell needs faced? Was there damage to it?
No. I watched a video that said whenever retrofitting from a cartridge (JIS) type BB that the BB needs to be faced.
I have a threaded English 68 mm. I don't see the purpose of facing a threaded BB. If the cups thread in, then they would be installed properly (90°)
Yeah, a lot of stuff says face the BB shell. The tool expensive, and even my local bike shop said it really didn't need to be done unless there was some sort of damage or reason why they wouldn't be flat.
Thank you for your professional advice. I watched a 28 minute bottom bracket tutorial "Bicycle Bottom Bracket & Crankset Types Compatibility Identification Spec. Guide." Excellent, excellent info !! I'm between XTR FC M970 or FSA SL-K. The XTR's I believe are lighter. But I have SL-K bars and stem. Any suggestions ? Anni headed in the right direction ? I know it's kind of subjective. But you know more than I do.
thank you! you just answer my question on mounting a "modern" bottom bracket in an old bottom braket style bike! cheers.... whooo hooo..! haha...
excellent work,thank you very much and be healthy!!!
thanks for this video man this is very helpfull i always watching your video here in philippines 😂 thumps up bro
Lester Pandian jnwhsuhco CA crew crew CT by bio
same here from Philippines
Thank you. Just excellent instruction!
Nice, tks from brasilian guy! In 2021.
Is this "new" bracket system better that the one you replaced??
That removal tool is expensive!
A good teacher. Thanks :-)
Hey I am trying to follow along with this hybrid to cyclocross build, but the videos are not numbered, have similar titles, or on a playlist together. How many videos are in this build? Could you organize them in a way to watch this bike be completed?
Any advice on GXP bottom bracket? the left side bearing fails too quick, any hack to make it like shimano?
Super. Great video work, as always!
Awesome tutorial!
Just the info I was looking for. Thanks
RJ The Bike Guy Have a question for you. Bought a 2013 Masi Uno early Spring, I want to put a new bottom bracket and crankset on. Will a SRAM Omnium BB and crankset fit?
Hello I have supercycle hooligan mountain bike with 18" frame. Could you tell me what size bottom bracket square taper I need. Thank you
Hi Rj I have new road bike steel frame only I prepare to put old bottom bracket instead new sealed bottom bracket. give me some brand & what size fit for my steel frame. Thanks
Why is the newer style better ?? I need to change the tapered square style and wondered. Thank you for all your help !
The bearings are larger and farther apart. Less crank flex. They are also lighter.
@@RJTheBikeGuy They also allow for a larger diameter spindle, which is both lighter and stiffer.
Joseph Martin, yes, and it will probably show up on another bike. I don't sell parts.
on my bike i cant take off the crank with no gears on it, i cant figure out a way to pull it off help mE!
Hi RJ I like the reviews on how to remove and replace bottom crank wheel drive and how to remove and replace the BB on all different types of BB thank you and you explain it very well and I have subscribed to your TH-cam channel thanks from Mark from the UK England
Since you were using a cartridge BB, by converting to an external bearing kind, would the inherent chainline of the bike be altered? How do you fix this?
Excellent Video love your demo's
excellent video. helped me out a lot. thanks
Hey man!! The biggest thank you for you! Happy New year!!!
Great information, much appreciated. 👍🚴
Great video. I know it’s kind of straightforward but here goes ,
What if I’m going to convert back to square taper from bb30. Any thing I should be worried about / know beforehand. B.B. shell measured 68mm
Thanks in advance
Not even sure it is possible, unless there is some sort of adapter.
Parabéns pelo vídeo e também pela clareza da sua explicação.
May i ask the size of your frame bottom bracket? I have an old GT bike but the bottom bracket has a bigger diameter i assume its like 36 in diameter
On my BB the drive side is metal and my BB toll fits perfect, but the non drive side is plastic, and the toll doesn't fit? Any tips?
Shrug. Find the correct tool.
I'm replacing a sealed cartridge on My eBike right now. What is the advantage of that GXP style ? What is the difference / advantage ?
I am upgrading a 1980s Motobecane with a square tape BB in a Sram GXP team English, but the drive side doesn't thread ni completely. It just threads in half way or less. The non-drive side goes in completely. Any suggestion?
Is the gxp bottom bracket still useable without the dust cover and the middle part?
Hi I commented on another video of yours, but this is the exact set up I'm looking for.. I currently have a 1 piece crankset.. With the adapters you installed, can I achieve the GXP cranks? Thank you
I answered your other comment.
Thanks mate great videos 🙏🏻
Great Video Thamks
What is the diffrence between GXP and Hollowtech 2?
That is one old-style torque wrench. I've got a couple of those but I mainly use the click type anymore.
I own several nice clickers. But I prefer beam torque wrenches for bikes. I like them better for lower torques.
I noticed you went from a 3x crankset to a 2x crankset but didn’t change your derailleur. I’m guessing you don’t have a hand trigger/clicking style derailleur or do you? If you do have a trigger/clicking style then I assume you would need to change the derailleur as well, right?
The limit screws on the front derailleur will limit how far the shifter will shift. You can use a triple shifter with a double, and will work fine. I did eventually replace the FD. Maybe a couple times I can't remember. At least once when I went to a compact crankset.
this mighty be silly, but is there an adapter bottom bracket to convert square tapered to BB30 crankset?
Almost certain you need a specific frame for BB 30 as they're press fit check on the gmbn video about them but I don't think they can be made cross compatible
i wonder if you can change only the bearings on the new BB that you installed or you have to change the entire unit
Not sure if the bearings are replaceable. I have only had one go bad, and it was destroyed.
Would using an anti-seize compound like Permatex be equivalent to using bike specific grease on bike threaded fittings, such as BB retaining rings and bolts? Based on 25 years of working on cars anti-seize has been my go-to for thread treatment. Could it be that a bike isn't subject to the higher temperatures so the grease is fine, given the convenience of having it at hand? Or is there better performance (water resistance?) to the grease? And THANK YOU for the excellent videos! In the last few months I've jumped into working on my 12 year old MTB and found I really like it, with your excellent videos to guide me around the tricky stuff!
In my case on a Boardman Sport, the drive side crank was removed clockwise and the left side anti clockwise. Also, definitely recommend heavy duty torque wrench to remove. Luckily I have a 60" Torque wrench - would not have got it off without it.
Brian Anderson You shouldn't use torque wrenches for removing stuff.
Doing this to an old univega over the next month or so! Thank you for the video
What a coincidence I also have an older univega getting ready to upgrade, If I may ask what components did you go with?
Mine is 1982 sportour
@@gilloyd3806 I just got done doing it this week. Switched it over to Sram Apex 1, but kept the original brakes (not levers or cables, but actual brakes), then went to an aeromax wheel wheelset (had to stretch the rear an extra ~2 mm to fit it in, as it was nominal at 126 mm spacing initially, and the new wheels were 130 mm, as I wanted to go to freehub vs the original freewheel), and threw panaracer gravel kings on the wheels. Love it overall, quick picture here pbs.twimg.com/media/DvYJBqGUwAAEmpS.jpg:large
Also, to specify, it is a 1988, and was square taper bb
I have had trouble with GXP cranksets creaking. I have a 68 mm BB with the two spacers. Bike is 13 yo on its third GXP BB.
I read that the left side bearing and spacer if fitted sets the horizontal position of the crank axle. The right side spacer seems less important (and you noted it hindered rotation). I have removed the left side spacer and there is noticeably less creaking. But the lack of left side spacer moved the whole crankset to the right and I had to readjust the derailleurs. But as I write this, I think that it would have been better to remove the right side spacer. That would have the same effect without disturbing derailleur adjustment. thanks for videos. Any tips on GXP creaking would be helpful.....
Update: I conclude that the two spacers are necessary with a 68mm wide BB shell, bringing with up to 73 mm. Without them the drive side bearings are not in contact with the shiny part of the axle and the chainwheels are shifted to the right, so altering the chain line. Note that it is the left side bearing that sets the horizontal position of the axle. Still get some creaking, so have not yet found the solution....
Nicely done mate
Hi Rj I have a concern what if i change 48/38/28 crank to 44/32/22 crank do i get any problem on my chain? should I make them shorter or i leave them as it is?
th-cam.com/video/ELsKrgTt0oY/w-d-xo.html
Where i can get that spacer/plate with the splines
Tank you for your "tricks off the trade." I am an intermediate MTBr and have a Bianchi with threaded square taper and am beginning modifications. Question: Do you have any advice on good, quality and cool crankset so I don't have to upgrade BB yet? Sorry this might be a broad inquiry,,, Thankg again and please see doing what you're doing.
Darryl
+Darryl Nuncio Sorry, but you need to do you own research and find what your needs and budget.
Hi,Great vid! will there be any issues with chain angle/front and rear ring alignment with the new wider bottom bracket?
Cheers!
+Paul Jones Not really, because the chain line is about the same.
+RJ The Bike Guy
Sweet! thanks for the quick reply!
Hi.. some suggest that we need to get the shell faced before changing to external BB like GXP. any thought on this? I saw you just did it without facing. great video. thanks.
Most bottom brackets will be fine without facing. Facing just makes sure the two faces are parallel.
Useful tips. Requires experience
Regarding the use of spacers: it depends on the installed crankset, frametype and the resulting chainline. For MTB cranksets like Shimano Deore XT or similar the optimal chainline is located further apart from the middle of the bike and therefore has to be adjusted with spacers if you have a bottom bracket that measures 68mm. For road type cranksets like 105 the ideal chainline is located nearer to the bikes middle plane. If your road bike frame has a 68mm bottom bracket you dont need to use spacers.
This based on SRAM's instructions:
th-cam.com/video/D1UHtUt_V2Q/w-d-xo.html
thought the threads were normal and instead of unscrewing BB i torqued it down pretty hard
hopefully it didnt damage the threads
the heck did they need to put different threads
Because right hand threaded cups on the drive side can work loose with pedaling. Still, older French and Italian made bikes have them.
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thank you so much for this vid.it can help much.
Do you still have that crankset
Thanks a lot. What are the realistic advantages of doing such a retrofit; as I have an old racing bicycle with an older BB than that, and I could replace it, if it is cost effectve.. Saludos de Costa Rica, Hasta la vista...
Newer cranks. Lighter. Bearings are farther out so less flex in the cranks.
Hey again RJ! Do you think that by gauging your effort visually one could approximately reach the 40-45 NM tightening range both when attempting to tighten the BB and the crank arm without a torque wrench? It seemed like you were going pretty hard on the BB and even harder on the crank arm, and that on top of it you were using an extra long tool for leverage... So i'm thinking, if i'm going at both the BB and crank arm "vigorously" with shorter tools but without being a maniac, the risk of over-tightening seems very minimal, if anything wouldn't there be a risk of under-tightening? What's your take on proceeding without a torque wrench?
I doubt you can judge torque visually. Hard to say. You want them tight, but if you go too hard you can strip the threads. Not tighten enough, and the parts can come loose.
right, I don't have a torque wrench but am I right in thinking if I used the corrected weight and measured the distance from the hub I can apply the exact torque to a bolt, ie 12 inch crank wrench (30.5cm), therefore weight required at the end of it to get 40nm would be; 40/((100/30.5)*9.8) = 1.36kg at 12inchs from centre of bolt; so if I poured out 1.36 litres of water into a bottle and hung it from the hub at 12 inches it would check if the bolt is at the right torque right (when at 90* to the floor), because the bolt would barely move right ?
Nice video. What do you recommend, GXP or Hollowtech bottom bracket ?
damn if I had known about this I may had done the conversion as well... now I will need to hold on till the parts get worn down... so like 5 years?
hi just wondering if a square tapered is better than a gxp bottom bracket and if you change the square to gxp like in video can use back the square tapered cranks on the gxp bottom bracket ?
Generally GXP is better than square tapered as the bearings are external, farther apart, so more stable, and larger since they are not restricted to the space inside the shell.
But yes, you can go from GXP back to square taper.
And GXP is probably lighter as well.
Thanks man lots of help
Very helpful thank you
Excelente, tirou minhas duvidas. Aprendi.
Hey rj. I am absolutely loving your videos.
What kind of bottom bracket was the old square one? Was it a shimano bb-un26?
If it was this is an upgrade I'm going to do!
Is the new one quite tough? I'm wanting to make my bad one that's quite good you see.
No, a UN26 usually has a plastic cup on the non drive side. Maybe a UN55.
Hi RJ, can you tell the name of the crank arm remover you used? Thank you. Jerry
653jpk219 Park Tool Crank Puller: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0028YUZSS/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
I want to do the same on a mountain bike so I measured the bb shell at 68 is that all the measurements I need to get the new one ? And what crank did you use ?
Asking the same question in multiple places is a quick way to be blocked.
Sorry didn't mean to piss you off. Was just didnt know since the video was older if you would see it. Then I heard you say Facebook so I went there. I'm not a bike mechanic so I'm learning as i go. The bb is priced good on Amazon but can't find an affordable match. Im not computer savvy.
What's the best grease for it? And it possible to put a crank on an 8 or 9 speed?
I use marine grease.
Sir did you change the FD
Hey RJ , do you think that I can put bottom bracket like that on a specialized crossroads Cruz from 90’s ?
Thanks
Probably.
Have you worked on any klein pressed in square taper bb. I have one and its getting pretty worn and want to be able to install newer parts
I have not.
@@RJTheBikeGuy any recommendations for parts or where I should start?
@@ryleyochsner8643 I am not familiar with it. It will take research. It's your bike. I am not doing your research for you.
@@RJTheBikeGuy sorry guy. I Wasn't asking you to research anything. Sorry to bother you. Didn't realize I was bothering you so much
What's the main differences between the one you installed and the old one? On what way does it help?
Thanks.
dair805 Google "advantage of external bearing bottom bracket"
Very informative!