You also might want to mention that the inside nut(closet to the frame) should be tightened on your BB puller, otherwise if it's not tight enough you can strip the threads in the crank. And there truly is a torque setting for that square taper BB. Thanks for sharing!!
You forgot to mention that any grease should be wiped off the spindle square taper and the inside of the crank arm square hole. This should be a dry fit. A bit of grease on the fixing bolt threads is fine.
@@tomnanD3 You are correct, Tom. We appreciate you bringing this to our attention, and I am sure our viewers will also appreciate the additional information.
There are so many different sizes and types of bottom bracket. My 1992 Zaskar uses 73 shell size, English thread. Since the cranks are Deore XT M730 SG, the spindle length is 122.5mm. It took a long time to work all this out before buying the parts.
Yes, there are. I am waiting for my new BB to arrive for my Fuel EX 9.9 so we can do a video on that style. Thank you for watching, my friend, and your continued support.
Thank you for the feedback, my friend, as well as watching the video. It's always a little daunting at first, but once the mystery is taken out of the process, it's usually straightforward.
Great video guys thank you! I have a slight issue however, having replaced the bottom bracket (definitely bought the same size) the smaller front chainring is rubbing against the frame - any idea why/how to fix this? Cheers
Brandon said the two most common issues to make this happen are 1) the spacer may be on the wrong side. And 2) the spacers may be the wrong size. And 3) a combination of 1 and 2. I hope this answer helps you resolve your issue. If not, let us know, and we will try again.
Thank you, my friend, for taking the time to watch as well as leaving your feedback. Both are important to us, especially the feedback. It's helped shape our channel.
8:56 - For an instructional video, he makes a cloudy confusing attempt at articulating the thread orientation. The drive side on these is left hand threaded, NOT “lefty-loosie, righty-tighty,” as he seems to echo. That is only the case on the removable cup on the NON drive side.
Hey Chris, we appreciate the feedback. Sometimes Brandon does have difficulty articulating himself, good intentions aside. Ut's something that we continue to work on.
Hey Alex, that you for asking this question as well as watching our video. In speaking to Brandon again on this subject, we both agreed that while you may be able to find a torque spec for this, it is not essential as it is on other procedures on the bike. Making sure it is good and tight with a little extra "oomph" is more than adequate.
Torque matters, but as both the square taper axle and crank retaining screw are steel, you'll have to go a lot higher here than anywhere else to strip the threads. Elsewhere the fasteners are either (a) a lot smaller and/or (b) softer aluminum, so the torque limits are far less.
@@WildBikerBill Over tightening your crank bolts can cause the tapers to go to far into the crank arms as they are soft metal and bottom out on the axle tapers which can cause the crank arms to not fit tight and wobble wrecking your crank arms. Every time you remove and replace your crank arms you wear the taper holes some and over tightening just makes it worse.
Hi mapdec I bought a 2015 KHS Sixfifty 2500 bicycle. The person who sold it to me made a modification to make it an Ebike. He cut off half an inch of the side of the disc chainring. The bottom bracket is not threaded, so on one side it has the stop ring and on the other side it doesn't. Can you give me an idea of what I can do?? Thank
I wish there were some information I could offer you, my friend. He purchased a bike from someone who made a drastic modification to convert it to a pedal assist. This is something, that I do not have firsthand knowledge about. Hopefully, somebody here will be able to offer you usable advice.
Hi Guys, Feel like I am already deep in the Rabbit Hole of Bottom Brackets. I am trying to work out what type of BB I have on a Trek Marlin 5 2017 (NZ). According to Trek website it is a VP - BC73 threaded cartridge. So damn confusing all these different standards. Ok so BC would be British Cycle (according to Park Tools website), 73 is length in mm. The only thing I cant work out is what the VP stands for and does the 24T refer to threads per inch on the cartridge? in New Zealand we use metric. Converting my bike to a mid drive E-Bike Bfang BBS02, just trying to work out if I will need spacers and maybe a offset chainring. Thanks for your help and vid was really helpful.
We appreciate you taking the time to watch and leave your feedback. Yes, this is threads per inch; if I remember correctly, it should be 1.37 x 24 threads per inch. I would have spacers on hand, just in case you need them. There's nothing worse than being deep into a project and realizing you don't have what you need to complete it. I hope this answer is helpful for you. Keep us posted on mid drive conversion.
I have a threaded square tapered BB 68x119. An exact replacement can't be found/out of stock. The closes fit is a 68x118 and 68 x120. Which size would you recommended? Does 1mm either way even matter? I have a 24 speed. 3 in front and 8 in the back
The 68x118 should work fine. You can use a spacer if need be, but I do not think you will need it. This is a great question, and I appreciate you asking, my friend.
10:15 You'll likely need to apply A LOT more force than that, especially if the BB has been in place for several years. You can add a wrench on the other side to the hex section and use both to turn, or in an extreme case, bolt the removal tool to the spindle through the square ratchet hole and use a combo wrench (aka ring spanner) with a breaker bar on the end for more leverage. I had to use the latter and gingerly bounce on the end with my full weight to get mine to budge.
Agreed, sometimes it can be a bite in the butt to get that thing to break loose. Thank you for taking the time to watch, my friend, and adding to the conversation.
Yeah, sometimes Brandon makes a grammatical goof. We try are best not to, but it happens now and again. Thanks for watching, my friend, and leaving your comments. Both are appreciated.
I recently bought 2 bike repair stands from Amazon. The first one, by RockBROS at $38, I sent back because it couldn't hold my heaviest bike BY THE SEATPOST, without letting the front wheel go down to within a couple inches of the floor. A defective design, IMO. (It probably could've held it by the top tube, (which wasn't too wide), but I was concerned it MAY, while adjusting, compress my shifting or brake cables, enough to affect shifting characteristics). So, after taking pictures and writing a review, and getting an unhelpful reply from the manufacturer, I sent that back, and bought a $48 West Biking Bike Repair Stand, that is capable of holding up to 88 lbs., and you can either attach to a wall (probably not the best if you have sheetrock), attach to a wooden workbench (as I did, on top of two 2x4 scraps, using deck screws that I drilled first, to avoid splits), or to a scrap piece of wood, and held in a vice, as some have done. If you're careful to mount it ~a couple inches out from your workbench, depending on your specific one, as well as bike, you can avoid pedal strikes - because, afterall, one of the benefits of having a Repair Stand, is being able to spin the rear wheel by pedaling, in order to adjust the shifting, or rear brakes. A Repair Stand like this still means you have to lift the bike, to put it in the Stand, and while holding it, tighten the clamp - which takes a few seconds and many turns, because it's not a Quick Connect design. But I put my car ramps in place, to reduce how far I had to lift it. Big difference in bike maintenance, by having a Stand!
Agreed. I was looking for this on TH-cam and it was reduced to so easy. I wasn't expecting the BB to be an inexpensive throw-away replacement part like that. In my case I'm not having any problems other than having worn out yet another set of front gears, the bike is 20 years old, so thought maybe the BB should be looked at and cleaned.
I'm still waiting for a tool, but... My bike is a very old Schwinn Montague folding bike. Made around 1980? or so... I can't get the drive side cup off. Are both sides loosen forward? Like the non-drive side lefty loosy, drive side righty loosy?
Yikes, I believe you are correct about that, Charlie. I'm not sure where in AZ you live, but if you continue to have issues loosening the drive side, call the shop or stop by so we can loosen it for you, and you can complete the task yourself. I'm sorry it took so long to respond. Brandon and I have both been on the road.
@@GetOutArizona No problem. The wrench I ordered was the wrong size... So, went to HF and got a bigger crescent wrench. It came off without too much trouble. It was clockwise to loosen. I have two quick questions: I don't have a caliper, but my spindle is around 133 mm. I can find a cartridge or a new one larger than 127.5 mm. The spindle race has a slight ding in it. A very small dent. Can I get by with just new bearings? Or, should I replace it? Would a 127.5 work? Also, I've seen videos of replacing the caged bearings with individual free bearings. Is that ok to do? Thank you for your reply and the video! Rick, in Tucson.
What is approx tightening torque for non-drive side? Is it the same as for drive side? Shimano installation manual recommends 50-70Nm without mentioning anything about sides. 50-70 Nm for non-drive side might be too much because it does not have a flange.
We're sorry for the delayed response. Brandon and I are both traveling. That being said, yes, typically it is the same. However, a little prudence is always advised because, as you said, the non-drive side does not have a flange. We appreciate you watching and asking your question, my friend.
You also might want to mention that the inside nut(closet to the frame) should be tightened on your BB puller, otherwise if it's not tight enough you can strip the threads in the crank. And there truly is a torque setting for that square taper BB. Thanks for sharing!!
Jackie, thank you for taking the time to watch and point this fact out in your comments. I know we appreciate it, as will as our viewers.
You forgot to mention that any grease should be wiped off the spindle square taper and the inside of the crank arm square hole. This should be a dry fit. A bit of grease on the fixing bolt threads is fine.
You should also check the cranks bolts after the first couple rides as the cranks settle and they need to be snugged up.
@@tomnanD3 You are correct, Tom. We appreciate you bringing this to our attention, and I am sure our viewers will also appreciate the additional information.
There are so many different sizes and types of bottom bracket. My 1992 Zaskar uses 73 shell size, English thread. Since the cranks are Deore XT M730 SG, the spindle length is 122.5mm. It took a long time to work all this out before buying the parts.
Yes, there are. I am waiting for my new BB to arrive for my Fuel EX 9.9 so we can do a video on that style. Thank you for watching, my friend, and your continued support.
Thank you! Great tutorial! I can fix any car, however, have never before worked with a bike :)
Thank you for the feedback, my friend, as well as watching the video. It's always a little daunting at first, but once the mystery is taken out of the process, it's usually straightforward.
Great video guys thank you! I have a slight issue however, having replaced the bottom bracket (definitely bought the same size) the smaller front chainring is rubbing against the frame - any idea why/how to fix this? Cheers
This is a great question, my friend. Let me contact Brandon to give you the most accurate answer possible.
Brandon said the two most common issues to make this happen are 1) the spacer may be on the wrong side. And 2) the spacers may be the wrong size. And 3) a combination of 1 and 2.
I hope this answer helps you resolve your issue. If not, let us know, and we will try again.
@@GetOutArizonathank you!
Great video.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave feedback, my friend.
Really friendly, fun and educational video. The atmosphere of video is really nice.
Thank you, my friend, for taking the time to watch as well as leaving your feedback. Both are important to us, especially the feedback. It's helped shape our channel.
20:58 "Loosening is always forward. Loosening is always backwards."
Yeah, a couple people have pointed that out. He gets tongue-tied now and again. 😉
😮
8:56 - For an instructional video, he makes a cloudy confusing attempt at articulating the thread orientation. The drive side on these is left hand threaded, NOT “lefty-loosie, righty-tighty,” as he seems to echo. That is only the case on the removable cup on the NON drive side.
Hey Chris, we appreciate the feedback. Sometimes Brandon does have difficulty articulating himself, good intentions aside. Ut's something that we continue to work on.
Note, if you put the outside rings to tight, it will make the bottom bracket spin less smooth, i tightend mine way to hard, had to loosen them a bit.
Thank you for watching my friend and for adding to the conversation. Both are appreciated.
So torque doesn't matter on any of this?
Hey Alex, that you for asking this question as well as watching our video. In speaking to Brandon again on this subject, we both agreed that while you may be able to find a torque spec for this, it is not essential as it is on other procedures on the bike. Making sure it is good and tight with a little extra "oomph" is more than adequate.
Torque matters, but as both the square taper axle and crank retaining screw are steel, you'll have to go a lot higher here than anywhere else to strip the threads. Elsewhere the fasteners are either (a) a lot smaller and/or (b) softer aluminum, so the torque limits are far less.
@@WildBikerBill Over tightening your crank bolts can cause the tapers to go to far into the crank arms as they are soft metal and bottom out on the axle tapers which can cause the crank arms to not fit tight and wobble wrecking your crank arms. Every time you remove and replace your crank arms you wear the taper holes some and over tightening just makes it worse.
Hi mapdec I bought a 2015 KHS Sixfifty 2500 bicycle. The person who sold it to me made a modification to make it an Ebike. He cut off half an inch of the side of the disc chainring. The bottom bracket is not threaded, so on one side it has the stop ring and on the other side it doesn't. Can you give me an idea of what I can do?? Thank
I wish there were some information I could offer you, my friend. He purchased a bike from someone who made a drastic modification to convert it to a pedal assist. This is something, that I do not have firsthand knowledge about. Hopefully, somebody here will be able to offer you usable advice.
@GetOutArizona thanks for answering brother.
@@bumCamilo. No worries, my friend. I am always bummed out, though, when I do not have a substantial answer.
Hi Guys, Feel like I am already deep in the Rabbit Hole of Bottom Brackets. I am trying to work out what type of BB I have on a Trek Marlin 5 2017 (NZ). According to Trek website it is a VP - BC73 threaded cartridge. So damn confusing all these different standards. Ok so BC would be British Cycle (according to Park Tools website), 73 is length in mm. The only thing I cant work out is what the VP stands for and does the 24T refer to threads per inch on the cartridge? in New Zealand we use metric. Converting my bike to a mid drive E-Bike Bfang BBS02, just trying to work out if I will need spacers and maybe a offset chainring. Thanks for your help and vid was really helpful.
We appreciate you taking the time to watch and leave your feedback.
Yes, this is threads per inch; if I remember correctly, it should be 1.37 x 24 threads per inch. I would have spacers on hand, just in case you need them. There's nothing worse than being deep into a project and realizing you don't have what you need to complete it.
I hope this answer is helpful for you. Keep us posted on mid drive conversion.
I have a threaded square tapered BB 68x119. An exact replacement can't be found/out of stock. The closes fit is a 68x118 and 68 x120. Which size would you recommended? Does 1mm either way even matter? I have a 24 speed. 3 in front and 8 in the back
The 68x118 should work fine. You can use a spacer if need be, but I do not think you will need it. This is a great question, and I appreciate you asking, my friend.
Thank lads.. you've shown me I ain't gotta be worried about changing my bottom bracket.. so I'm off to do it right now.. cheers👍
We appreciate you watching as well as the feedback, friend. Good luck.
It's actually wrong. It's not tight enough for the square taper....
10:15 You'll likely need to apply A LOT more force than that, especially if the BB has been in place for several years. You can add a wrench on the other side to the hex section and use both to turn, or in an extreme case, bolt the removal tool to the spindle through the square ratchet hole and use a combo wrench (aka ring spanner) with a breaker bar on the end for more leverage. I had to use the latter and gingerly bounce on the end with my full weight to get mine to budge.
Agreed, sometimes it can be a bite in the butt to get that thing to break loose. Thank you for taking the time to watch, my friend, and adding to the conversation.
Yep, I ended up using an impact wrench to get mine out of the used bicycle I bought recently. It the whole BB was just rusted and fused on.
Yes, “loosing is always forward and loosing backwards.” Smfh, so you don’t say? ……………………..
Yeah, sometimes Brandon makes a grammatical goof. We try are best not to, but it happens now and again. Thanks for watching, my friend, and leaving your comments. Both are appreciated.
I recently bought 2 bike repair stands from Amazon. The first one, by RockBROS at $38, I sent back because it couldn't hold my heaviest bike BY THE SEATPOST, without letting the front wheel go down to within a couple inches of the floor. A defective design, IMO. (It probably could've held it by the top tube, (which wasn't too wide), but I was concerned it MAY, while adjusting, compress my shifting or brake cables, enough to affect shifting characteristics). So, after taking pictures and writing a review, and getting an unhelpful reply from the manufacturer, I sent that back, and bought a $48 West Biking Bike Repair Stand, that is capable of holding up to 88 lbs., and you can either attach to a wall (probably not the best if you have sheetrock), attach to a wooden workbench (as I did, on top of two 2x4 scraps, using deck screws that I drilled first, to avoid splits), or to a scrap piece of wood, and held in a vice, as some have done. If you're careful to mount it ~a couple inches out from your workbench, depending on your specific one, as well as bike, you can avoid pedal strikes - because, afterall, one of the benefits of having a Repair Stand, is being able to spin the rear wheel by pedaling, in order to adjust the shifting, or rear brakes. A Repair Stand like this still means you have to lift the bike, to put it in the Stand, and while holding it, tighten the clamp - which takes a few seconds and many turns, because it's not a Quick Connect design. But I put my car ramps in place, to reduce how far I had to lift it. Big difference in bike maintenance, by having a Stand!
My bottom bracket is ultra seized, learning how to undo it without ruining something.
Look at those shoes, baby!
Brilliant video. Clear and concise, cheers.
Thank you, Johny, for taking the time to watch and leave your feedback. Both are sincerely appreciated.
Agreed. I was looking for this on TH-cam and it was reduced to so easy. I wasn't expecting the BB to be an inexpensive throw-away replacement part like that. In my case I'm not having any problems other than having worn out yet another set of front gears, the bike is 20 years old, so thought maybe the BB should be looked at and cleaned.
I'm still waiting for a tool, but... My bike is a very old Schwinn Montague folding bike. Made around 1980? or so... I can't get the drive side cup off. Are both sides loosen forward? Like the non-drive side lefty loosy, drive side righty loosy?
Yikes, I believe you are correct about that, Charlie. I'm not sure where in AZ you live, but if you continue to have issues loosening the drive side, call the shop or stop by so we can loosen it for you, and you can complete the task yourself.
I'm sorry it took so long to respond. Brandon and I have both been on the road.
@@GetOutArizona No problem. The wrench I ordered was the wrong size... So, went to HF and got a bigger crescent wrench. It came off without too much trouble. It was clockwise to loosen. I have two quick questions: I don't have a caliper, but my spindle is around 133 mm. I can find a cartridge or a new one larger than 127.5 mm. The spindle race has a slight ding in it. A very small dent. Can I get by with just new bearings? Or, should I replace it? Would a 127.5 work? Also, I've seen videos of replacing the caged bearings with individual free bearings. Is that ok to do? Thank you for your reply and the video! Rick, in Tucson.
You can also get square teperbottom bracket that you can service! Token produces them!!
Thank you for adding to the conversation, my friend.
What is approx tightening torque for non-drive side? Is it the same as for drive side? Shimano installation manual recommends 50-70Nm without mentioning anything about sides. 50-70 Nm for non-drive side might be too much because it does not have a flange.
We're sorry for the delayed response. Brandon and I are both traveling. That being said, yes, typically it is the same. However, a little prudence is always advised because, as you said, the non-drive side does not have a flange. We appreciate you watching and asking your question, my friend.
please list the wrench used. I can't find any part that will fit that .
There is this
amzn.to/3yrsjBk
and there is this
amzn.to/3V8apwy
I hope this is the answer you were looking for my, my friend. Thank you for watching.
A very very good video, all the info I needed!!!!!!!!
Thank you for taking the time to watch my friend. I'm not sure how I overlooked your feedback, but I do apologize.
👍
Thank you for watching my friend.
On the Shimano un300 bottom bracket, does the inside of the crank seat up against the chain stabilize collar?
Always looks rough when the adjustable spanner gets used.... It's a last resort tool.