Thank you for the video, I was hoping you would shed some light on the technical aspects such as building the connections to the barrel. I would have preferred hearing you explain what you are doing and why, show the fittings that are being used. I am interested to know how you plumbed the air into the top bung cap, what fittings are used to plumb the drain pipe to the bottom bung hole, did you run a pipe through the cap to the inside of the barrel, if yes, how far, and why??? Thank you
I don’t remember the exact fitting sizes. But everything was purchased at Lowes. I remember distinctly going one day, and sitting in aisle just playing with different fittings and ultimately deciding which would work. The top air line uses a 1/4npt quick adapter air line fitting. As is standard on any air tool. Bottom water flow fitting is pvc and pcc glue. Nothing fancy. The pvc water line from the bottom has one drain and one fill section controlled by a valve. The system works based on pressure. Obviously to drain the water from the table into the tank it is simply gravity. Just open the valve below the water bed and let gravity do the work. To refill the table you open that same valve but also apply 1-6psi of air pressure into the top 1/4npt bung. That alone is enough positive pressure to force the come up the drain hole instead of down it
I honestly didnt even think of that for the waste.... if worse comes to worse i can always vacuum the drainage lines.... but thank you, on the next one ill for sure do it!
Sure thing, there were a few. Mechanically, it didn’t have the resolution I was looking for, the 2x2 guide rails with a direct drive motor system is not able to get fine detail and fast speeds as well as an extrusion and pulley driven gear system. Also that table was only 46in square working area(I did my math wrong shooting for a 48in square) Control wise, it was much much easier to build the first one. Much simpler wiring. But along with the mechanical upgrades I wanted to get better software control as well. Using dedicated drivers allows me to control the behavior of the machine much more accurately. Truthfully, the first table was completely functional, worked wel enough, and was much cheaper to build than my second one. If cost is a concern and you’re fine working with a little lack of control/resolution then that design will work fine. I ended up selling it and using that money to help fund the second table.
Curious as to why the drained water needs to be kept at all ? Why not just have the water level maintained by a float in the pan until a change is needed ?
@@Legacy4x4andOffRoadYT Holy smoley 30 acres of tool storage LoL Look into SIP panels to build the shop out of. I help set up the 14' walls to a 32x60 in little over a day. when they are up they are done inside out and well insulated.. What year is the commander? I had a 74, I still have the pto box for the transfer case if you are interested it.
love the build man i know i say it all the time but love the build. good to see some other peoples ideas, very inspiring, love the tank set up. might need to do something like that on mu build.
![[TH] FS vs BME - VCT Ascension Pacific - Lower Bracket Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnygqsR2Fig/mqdefault.jpg)
Loving this build man good job cheers
Thank you! It is a fun build should be finished soon
CNC Plasma is way cool, I'm jealous lol.
Theyre pretty cool little tools, thanks for watching!
@@Legacy4x4andOffRoadYT Thank you for the vid, and the Sb to my channel.
Great work!
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Great job and video 👍👍🇨🇱
Thanks 👍
Thank you for the video, I was hoping you would shed some light on the technical aspects such as building the connections to the barrel. I would have preferred hearing you explain what you are doing and why, show the fittings that are being used. I am interested to know how you plumbed the air into the top bung cap, what fittings are used to plumb the drain pipe to the bottom bung hole, did you run a pipe through the cap to the inside of the barrel, if yes, how far, and why??? Thank you
I don’t remember the exact fitting sizes. But everything was purchased at Lowes. I remember distinctly going one day, and sitting in aisle just playing with different fittings and ultimately deciding which would work.
The top air line uses a 1/4npt quick adapter air line fitting. As is standard on any air tool. Bottom water flow fitting is pvc and pcc glue. Nothing fancy. The pvc water line from the bottom has one drain and one fill section controlled by a valve.
The system works based on pressure. Obviously to drain the water from the table into the tank it is simply gravity. Just open the valve below the water bed and let gravity do the work. To refill the table you open that same valve but also apply 1-6psi of air pressure into the top 1/4npt bung. That alone is enough positive pressure to force the come up the drain hole instead of down it
any plans on adding a filter to the drain? i know my water gets pretty nasty after one cutting session
I honestly didnt even think of that for the waste.... if worse comes to worse i can always vacuum the drainage lines.... but thank you, on the next one ill for sure do it!
Rangers lead the way.
RLTW! Thanks for watching!
May I ask, what were the down falls of the first table that you built?
Sure thing, there were a few. Mechanically, it didn’t have the resolution I was looking for, the 2x2 guide rails with a direct drive motor system is not able to get fine detail and fast speeds as well as an extrusion and pulley driven gear system. Also that table was only 46in square working area(I did my math wrong shooting for a 48in square)
Control wise, it was much much easier to build the first one. Much simpler wiring. But along with the mechanical upgrades I wanted to get better software control as well. Using dedicated drivers allows me to control the behavior of the machine much more accurately.
Truthfully, the first table was completely functional, worked wel enough, and was much cheaper to build than my second one. If cost is a concern and you’re fine working with a little lack of control/resolution then that design will work fine. I ended up selling it and using that money to help fund the second table.
i like it
thank you!
More of the Jeepster dammit
mhm
Curious as to why the drained water needs to be kept at all ? Why not just have the water level maintained by a float in the pan until a change is needed ?
Save water from massive evaporation losses as well as clean out the inside as easily as possible to fish out junk and small parts! thats the idea!
You can never have to many tools however the man cave can be to small..
yup, thats the issue were coming across. I just recently bought a 30 acre farm house, unlimited possibilities for space :D
a farm house on 30 acres, I should say
@@Legacy4x4andOffRoadYT
Holy smoley 30 acres of tool storage LoL
Look into SIP panels to build the shop out of. I help set up the 14' walls to a 32x60 in little over a day. when they are up they are done inside out and well insulated..
What year is the commander? I had a 74, I still have the pto box for the transfer case if you are interested it.
@@SegoMan hah
love the build man i know i say it all the time but love the build. good to see some other peoples ideas, very inspiring, love the tank set up. might need to do something like that on mu build.
I appreciate it! Yeah there's not a whole lot out there on them but it sure does teach you a lot working the process
I know this is an older video but after using the fill/drain have you had any issues with the barrel taking all of the water from a full pan?
The barrel is more than big enough for the full table of water. After emptying the table the barrel only fills up about 1/3rd of the way
@@Legacy4x4andOffRoadYT I did mine the same way you did- came out great- thanks for the video!~
You need an air bleed on top of your tank
thanks for the tip! I've actually added one since makign this video... learned that one the hard way... appreciate it though!