Thank you for sharing. I’m waiting on my table to be delivered. And thanks to you, I ordered the new clamp for my machine torch, which you also helped convince me to order. You explained everything clearly and professionally. J.
You're gonna love it, I have about 4 months on my table now and it's been fantastic. Only recurring gripe is the splashing when you cut near the edge of the water table. Also when you set it up make sure you take the time to square it as perfectly as possible.
@@galtsgarage5775 I ordered 5 gallons of Plasma Green 510 table cutting fluid to help w corrosion and mold growth. Im also planning to dimple t drains 2 aid in draining t pans.
@@MrLittleman777 It's good stuff, I'm still on the original gallon I put in the table 4 months ago. I'm using the standard drains, but the dimple drains really are a nice step up.
Just setup my LS pro and glad to report they include a bolt to replace the thumbscrew now. Appreciate the vid this part is lacking in their instructions!
One thing I forgot to edit into this video, I mounted the torch in the wrong spot. Make sure you don't have the clamps around the lower part of the machine torch. It can cause the housing on your machine torch to warp, it looks weird but clamping it up higher is the right way to do it. The LS Pro is a great table, I've had mine for almost 2 years and it's been the MVP of my shop for some time. Terrific value.
It looks like your torch is working correctly, but be aware that the bottom section of that machine torch that has the 4 screws is a “no zone” for clamping. That style torch is a blowback style arc ignition, and if you clamp on that section you can distort the torch and cause the blowback ignition to stop working. Best practice is to clamp above that section.
Thank you much for your videos. I am also waiting on my crossfire pro table and agonizing over which plasma cutter to get. Extremely difficult to justify the HT45XP but a little concerned about short consumable life with the PrimeWeld as discussed on the Langmuir forums. How has your life been on tips? I am debating between the Everlast 52i and the PrimeWeld Cut 60. I will get the machine torch with either.
I have purchased the crossfire pro and the cut 60 a few months ago and had my machine torch fail on me..Ugh. Primeweld replaced. Questions though. How much air pressure do you hace coming into the back of the machine? 2nd, When I'm using fusion 360 to do my toolpaths, I keep getting linking restraint errors on smaller sized cutouts so am curios what leading angle and length do you use in this situation to eliminate that linking restraint error if you use Fusion or do you use a diff program to generate your gcode?
I run unrestricted pressure into my Cut 60, I just make sure it's well filtered and dry. The regulator on the Cut 60 has never struggled with it. My old compressor that was 130psi into the back of the machine and my new compressor is 155psi. For lead in and lead outs I run 45 degrees and if it's a small cutout like you said that gets dropped on processing in Fusion when you try to generate your gcode I drop my lead in distance to .05". If the cutouts or "drops" are big enough I will run lead in arcs instead of angles because they are very smooth entries and exits that are almost invisible to the naked eye if you run them at least .25" or more on the arc. On the smaller ones though that usually drop when you are generating your toolpaths (gcode basically) I run 45 degrees and .05" and if it still drops the cut on processing then I will go back and adjust the file to make that drop a little bigger. As a rule of thumb for me if the drop is at least .120" wide then I know it will probably be okay. The other big factor in this is your kerf width because that's what the program uses to determine if it can fit a toolpath in there. I can tell you with the Cut 60 and the 1.1mm nozzle on your torch your kerf is between .60" and .65" wide (mine is .62"). Now you can cheat this by lying to the software and telling it your kerf is smaller but remember it will have an effect on your cut quality for the whole piece because now the program thinks all of your cut widths are skinnier than they really are and it will adjust the toolpath accordingly so it's best to just change the handful of cuts in design that are too small. Sorry for the long post, but this is all stuff I learned the hard way and it's a really good question because it WILL come up with anyone new to CAD/CAM like I was. Good luck!
@@galtsgarage5775 Perfect. Thanks for taking the time to reply. appreciate you.. As for my Machine torch, I wa having problems with it so Primeweld sent me a new one. I have not had a chance to use my table/torch at all for the past 6 months. illness.. regardless, they also sent and suggested to use 0.9 mm nozzles.
@@michaelwenmanK7USN I've used the .6 and .9 nozzles and I'm not a fan, they just can't tolerate much amperage. If you're cutting stuff like 16 gauge and thinner they will probably be fine, they will also shrink your kerf. On the flip side if you're cutting 14 gauge and up you are going to need the 1.1mm nozzles. It's all about the amperage with the nozzles so be mindful the amperage ratings for each of the nozzles is pretty accurate from PrimeWeld and I wouldn't exceed them.
Thank you for sharing. I’m waiting on my table to be delivered. And thanks to you, I ordered the new clamp for my machine torch, which you also helped convince me to order. You explained everything clearly and professionally. J.
You're gonna love it, I have about 4 months on my table now and it's been fantastic. Only recurring gripe is the splashing when you cut near the edge of the water table. Also when you set it up make sure you take the time to square it as perfectly as possible.
@@galtsgarage5775 I ordered 5 gallons of Plasma Green 510 table cutting fluid to help w corrosion and mold growth. Im also planning to dimple t drains 2 aid in draining t pans.
@@MrLittleman777 It's good stuff, I'm still on the original gallon I put in the table 4 months ago. I'm using the standard drains, but the dimple drains really are a nice step up.
Just setup my LS pro and glad to report they include a bolt to replace the thumbscrew now. Appreciate the vid this part is lacking in their instructions!
One thing I forgot to edit into this video, I mounted the torch in the wrong spot. Make sure you don't have the clamps around the lower part of the machine torch. It can cause the housing on your machine torch to warp, it looks weird but clamping it up higher is the right way to do it. The LS Pro is a great table, I've had mine for almost 2 years and it's been the MVP of my shop for some time. Terrific value.
It looks like your torch is working correctly, but be aware that the bottom section of that machine torch that has the 4 screws is a “no zone” for clamping. That style torch is a blowback style arc ignition, and if you clamp on that section you can distort the torch and cause the blowback ignition to stop working.
Best practice is to clamp above that section.
Thank you much for your videos. I am also waiting on my crossfire pro table and agonizing over which plasma cutter to get. Extremely difficult to justify the HT45XP but a little concerned about short consumable life with the PrimeWeld as discussed on the Langmuir forums. How has your life been on tips? I am debating between the Everlast 52i and the PrimeWeld Cut 60. I will get the machine torch with either.
I highly recommend the Cut60, the issue was from a previous model, if you buy one made from 2021 on it's all good.
I have purchased the crossfire pro and the cut 60 a few months ago and had my machine torch fail on me..Ugh. Primeweld replaced. Questions though. How much air pressure do you hace coming into the back of the machine? 2nd, When I'm using fusion 360 to do my toolpaths, I keep getting linking restraint errors on smaller sized cutouts so am curios what leading angle and length do you use in this situation to eliminate that linking restraint error if you use Fusion or do you use a diff program to generate your gcode?
I run unrestricted pressure into my Cut 60, I just make sure it's well filtered and dry. The regulator on the Cut 60 has never struggled with it. My old compressor that was 130psi into the back of the machine and my new compressor is 155psi. For lead in and lead outs I run 45 degrees and if it's a small cutout like you said that gets dropped on processing in Fusion when you try to generate your gcode I drop my lead in distance to .05". If the cutouts or "drops" are big enough I will run lead in arcs instead of angles because they are very smooth entries and exits that are almost invisible to the naked eye if you run them at least .25" or more on the arc. On the smaller ones though that usually drop when you are generating your toolpaths (gcode basically) I run 45 degrees and .05" and if it still drops the cut on processing then I will go back and adjust the file to make that drop a little bigger. As a rule of thumb for me if the drop is at least .120" wide then I know it will probably be okay. The other big factor in this is your kerf width because that's what the program uses to determine if it can fit a toolpath in there. I can tell you with the Cut 60 and the 1.1mm nozzle on your torch your kerf is between .60" and .65" wide (mine is .62"). Now you can cheat this by lying to the software and telling it your kerf is smaller but remember it will have an effect on your cut quality for the whole piece because now the program thinks all of your cut widths are skinnier than they really are and it will adjust the toolpath accordingly so it's best to just change the handful of cuts in design that are too small. Sorry for the long post, but this is all stuff I learned the hard way and it's a really good question because it WILL come up with anyone new to CAD/CAM like I was. Good luck!
@@galtsgarage5775 Perfect. Thanks for taking the time to reply. appreciate you.. As for my Machine torch, I wa having problems with it so Primeweld sent me a new one. I have not had a chance to use my table/torch at all for the past 6 months. illness.. regardless, they also sent and suggested to use 0.9 mm nozzles.
@@michaelwenmanK7USN I've used the .6 and .9 nozzles and I'm not a fan, they just can't tolerate much amperage. If you're cutting stuff like 16 gauge and thinner they will probably be fine, they will also shrink your kerf. On the flip side if you're cutting 14 gauge and up you are going to need the 1.1mm nozzles. It's all about the amperage with the nozzles so be mindful the amperage ratings for each of the nozzles is pretty accurate from PrimeWeld and I wouldn't exceed them.
Ｐｒⓞм𝕠𝕤𝐌 🏃