Have any further questions? Leave them below and I might just make another video about it! ✂️ Develop you your garment sewing skills with me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
I draft all my patterns without seam allowances. my rule of thumb is 1cm seam allowance for curves (necklines, armholes, princess seams) and just under 1.5cm for everything else. A hack I use to not have to draw the seam allowances or eyeball, is to use tiny magnets with 0.2cm thickness as the seam allowance guide. Just attach them to the tip of the scissors. Stack 5 pieces of magnets for 1cm allowance, or 7 for 1.4cm. Align the side of the magnet to your pattern, and you'll be cutting at your desired seam allowance.
I'm a beginning sewing student at age 56. and I love your videos. I was advised by a dear friend, who owns her own sewing Atelier Studio, to make your seams on your Twal or mockup One inch to start off with. After your fitting and you've worked out the fit, then you can give yourself any Seam Allowance you wish... pending the type of fashion fabric you are sewing with. She said to remember, your Seam allowance will always be on the inside of your garment. It's your eyes only... Have fun with it. Serge with Bright Colors if you want, as long as it's not going to show threw the fashion fabric. I want to thank you Evelyn for all you do here on your online sewing school and with this channel. We are with you and will be keeping you in our prayers!
I prefer 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) seam allowances for seams that need to be finished. The pressure foot is 1/4 inch, so I can easily make French seams just by following the pressure foot guide. If a seam is going to be enclosed, I use 1/4 inch to minimize bulk.
Ive been sewing for quite a number of years now, and I've recently discovered the joy of having a no-seam allowance pattern! It started when i began making my own corset. The measurements on those have to be pinpoint accurate or things start to get wonky real fast. So you mark your SEWING LINE on the fabric and just cut however much extra around that line of fabric you feel you need. So much easier to literally have the stitch line marked on the fabric for you to follow, and so much easier to match up pieces because you know the lines are right (no compounded mistakes due to over-happy scissors). And the best part, is this means you dont have to adjust your pattern for different fabrics. The stitch line will almost always be the same, and you just manually adjust where you cut based on your fabric. I dont think I'll ever go back to built-in seam allowances... Stitch lines are queen!
A few things I was told for the 5/8 seam allowances was that old sewing didn't have the serger or worried to much about finishing the seam and it gave it room to fray without coming apart at the seams. The other ones were that you can bring it in or let it out with weight fluctuations as fabric wasn't cheap and people were always recycling old clothes into new wear and then the common one for modern day beginners is to have room for error. I use 5/8 as I have only a straight stitch and it gives me room to cut or fold the edge under and trap it in the seam.
I do a 1/2” seam allowance on everything and then trim to suit before finishing. Usually it’s a French seam or bound seam (Hong Kong or both-in-bias) and my pieces have a lot of hand work, so the larger seam allowance during hand work and before true finishing allows for a wee bit of fray above the stay-stitching (.5cm from raw edge) to be fully trimmed off before finishing the seam fully
I always use a 2 cm seam allowance because you can make the garment bigger if needed. On armhole and neckline, 1 cm because it's easier with the curves. And on bottoms hems, 4 cm so that you can lengthen it later if needed.
So far the patterns I've used haven't included a seam allowance, so I've varied them depending on the fabric. Smaller for knits, wider for fabrics prone to fraying, then extra wide if I haven't had the time/energy to make a mock-up and want some leeway in case it doesn't fit...
Same with me, I like to keep 1 inch seam allowance for the sides.Thats a standard that I use.I usually stitch cotton or cotton blended clothes. For the arm hole, I keep a seam allowance of half an inch & for the neckline it's a little bit more than quarter of an inch.
"So why do sewing patterns use 5/8 seam allowance for EVERYTHING?" Because the 5/8 line on the needle plate of my sewing machine is twice as long as the other marks!
I wonder if that’s a chicken and the egg kind of dilemma. Did they start making it longer because the patterns had that seam allowance or did the pattern companies make it 5/8 because the sewing machines have that marking.
hahaha of course! I'm with @RachelLynn on the chicken and the egg situation... I think the sewing machine manufacturers added it, as very originally sewing patterns would have no seams allowance and you just added what you want!🙂
@@rachellynncreates2703 I made a comment about this further up....the 5/8ths has a historical root for specific reason..namely baleen - or whaleboning. 200 years later and an industry standard had a genuine historic reason :-)
I was taught to make all vertical seams 1 inch for adjustments. My college instructor did that for garments with a small amount of designer ease. She was a fabulous teacher 🥰
This might seem silly but for my self made patterns I prefer a 1/2 inch because it is just easier to find the 1/2 “ line on my ruler than the teeny 3/8 or 5/8 lines. It is right in the middle and if it seems a bit bulky I can always trim it when I finish my seams. When I try the others I tend to accidentally miss-measure when drawing the patterns.
Personally i prefer like you narrow around the collar, but 1" at side seams and darts. Just sasd experience....I never get thinner! A bit of historical context. The standard of 1.5 cm seam allowance actually has historical roots. Aas you pointed out, 5/8ths was the min seam allowance to enable a variety of seam finishes before overlockers arrived. Many Victorian garments have this 5/8ths inch. However this seam width also allowed the slim whaleboning to be slipped along the seam - which was much finer than modern boning. Unlike today - where we have a "caseing" for the 1 cm boning, and place it evenly over the seam, many victorian seams had very slim baleen strips placed on each side of the seam for fine stabilisation, while making sure there is no extra bulk at the seam line.
@@JojoAde Interesting you should ask. If you use a 4 thread overlocker, with both needles, not just 3 threads, and if you use a standard generic presser foot that comes with your sewing machine, as a rule the edge of the presser foot, when aligned against the 4 thread serged edge - the stitch line is then at exactly the 1.5 cm in. So, no need to make extra alllowance for full width serging, as those measurements are built into the combination of the width of the serging and then the size of an avergae presser foot. HTH. 🙂 try it out on a scrap piece of fabric and see how you go - im curious to know how you go. Good luck
@@JojoAde Sorry - I should add, my advice assumes you have serged the edges before stitching together. SOme people stitch the seam then serge both seams together. I almost never do this as it makes unpicking and altering almost impossible in a neat way. 🙂
I liked how this was practical advice and a little history lesson as well. I never would've guessed it originated from the majority of home sewn fabrics being woven!
I learned to sew on Burda patterns, which don't include seam allowance...but 1,5cm for seams and 4cm for hems is what they recommend and it's a hard to break habit. And hey, if it ain't broken, why fix it? It sometimes means, having to cut back seam allowances, but I'd rather do that, than not have any 'wriggle room' at all.
Weird! The burda pattern that I just worked definitely had seam allowances included- maybe it’s a regional difference? I got annoyed because the instructions included a bit about trimming down the de allowance at the armhole before sewing it, which makes sense, but I would so much rather that they had just given less allowance there in the first place- I have other patterns that do that.
@@katarinamay710 Could be! Would make sense, to adapt the patterns to the international market. But I also only ever used the magazine, not the individual patterns. Maybe there's a difference. And yeah - I like to recommend to people, to always read the sewing instructions in full, before they even cut into the fabric. Because there's often something, you might want to do differently. I like to be able, to adjust fit a little, even after the garment is finished, for example. Cause I have gained and lost (and gained and lost) weight several times in my life already and just can't seem to settle on one dress size permanently. So I plan accordingly, when I construct garments and avoid side seam zippers, for example - or finishing the waistband in a way, that turns alterations into a big hassle. And if I do a rolled hem, I obviously don't want to cut a full hem allowance. It almost always pays, to plan ahead a little 😉
For Burda and Burda easy at least in Germany they're without seam allowance and also my granny's old Burda magazine stash are net patterns. Maybe that helps?
This is why I prefer patterns that don't include seam allowances. It is easier to concentrate on the stitch line and many times the seam allowance doesn't matter much as long as the fit is OK and the fabric doesn't fray.
Yep. I draft most of my own patterns, without seam allowance. Then when I cut it, I usually cut to about 1/2 though I usually don’t bother being super accurate unless I’m sewing by machine for French seams or machine sewn flat felled seams. Then I make sure to be a bit more accurate about my SA, so I can get an accurate 1/4 finished seam. But I mostly hand sew (which makes marking the seam line even more important). I cut to about 1/2 in, which leaves room to fray, then I hand fell- which I do by cutting one seam allowance to 1/4, and the other to just under 1/8th, folding the larger and encasing the smaller. I end up with a finished seam of about 1/8th, which is my preferred seam width for hand sewn garments. If I’m doing a hand rolled hem, I cut to 1/4, then trim to 1/8th before rolling, or doing a ladder stitch.
@@lorieburtt592 I disagree. I rather have them put a very accurate SA digitally, rather than me having to add a SA manually, which is more prone to error (and time consuming...)
In Italy it's common not to include seam allowance in patterns and I was surprised when I found that abroad it's included. Knowing that you can add whatever allowance you want when you cut the pattern, makes it so much easier! At leas in my eyes...
A few years ago a I was watching a professional designer and sewing teacher who uses 3/8 or 1 cm when attaching sleeves also. I have used this since and for me it works very well. You are a very good, engaging teacher. So easily understandable and easy to listen to.
I can't do it on every fabric but for me it makes such a difference if I can mark the stitch line with a tracing wheel. This way I am not relying on the edge of the pattern for all measurements. By the time it has frayed a bit, stretched a bit or been notched or trimmed, it is easy to lose track of the stitch line. Worst is when you have to go back and redo something you have already overlocked and trimmed. Matching a new pattern piece (I had to recut the back bodice) with the 5/8 allowance to the rest of the dress that now had less than 1cm seam allowance and had frayed a bit was -a s**. I am amazed it worked out but it did. Mark the stitch line!
I do use the narrower seam for necklines and armscyes. It just dawned on me that that awkward fraction is a very neat centimeter. THat was a "duh" moment.
I usually self draft or work with indie patterns, and recently I did a project with a 1.5cm seam allowance (rather than my usual 1cm allowance). Any seam allowance wider than the foot annoys me because I can't line up the fabric edge with the foot😅
This isn't about patterns with seam allowance but what I do with seam allowances. Sometimes seams, especially zips on seams, can be scratchy. I hand sew the seam down to the lining or the seam allowance to stop the itch and sometimes put some soft ribbon over if it's still itchy.
I was reading your comment exactly at the same time as Evelyn said it, spooky! Don't worry darling, I'm a new stitchling and I too hang my head at this too.... we're learning!😘💋❤
On the patterns I create and those I significantly alter, I always use 1/2-inch seam allowance because it makes the math simple! Thank you for all your posts!
I mainly use natural woven fibers for garments and in many cases for side seams I like to use 2.2-2.5 cm allowing the garment to be easily adjusted if needed. I have seen this in many tailored garments and appreciate when a garment can grow with you, if needed. Around curves like necklines and armholes, I prefer to keep the seam allowances between 1-1.5 cm to reduce bulk in those areas.
I believe you gave excellent advice. It seems like this topic is rarely discussed, but using your preferred seam allowances really does improve your sewing. I also like using 3/8" on collars and necklines. I think the smaller allowances make matching curves a bit easier and require less pinning. (I pin a lot!) The one thing I wish you had mentioned was that a standard seam gauge is a great way to add seam allowances. The full width is 5/8" and you can use the inside lines to each side to get a 1/4" or a 3/8".
@@Evelyn__Wood Wow, I’m impressed!!! No doubt you’re experienced enough to eyeball it. As for me, I’d probably have a nervous breakdown if my half dozen or so seam gauges all disappeared.
I use the seam gauge when I am redrafting my patterns. At 4'10" and 112 lbs., I have come to the realization that most of my patterns involve a LOT of prep! Pattern tracing paper, mixing in 2 sizes, shortening the length, hip-to-waist, crotch...what else!?
It was engrained in me a long time ago (dating myself here) to use a 5/8th seam allowance. Something about wiggle room if I had to change the fit. I was never taught to make a mock up.
Absolutely Debbie! It certainly does give you more wiggle room for fitting adjustments, even if you do a toile, every time you make it up in a different fabric it still fits differently. It's like a tiny safety net 😄
I prefer to cut all seams down to 1/4" if I can. It just feels finer and neater. I'm also just getting into historical sewing techniques, and I'm finding I appreciate just a bit more wiggle as I go.
I hate 5/8" seam allowances, and use patterns that mostly have 1/2" or 3/8". I can't imagine putting in a sleeve, even in the flat with 5/8" seam allowance. If I am working with a pattern that has 5/8, I cut down both the neckline, sleeve head, and armskye to 3/8". However, that being said, when making a muslin trail garment, I often sew 1" seam allowances on the vertical seams to have room for fitting. Your video is, as always very informative, and I enjoy watching them.
Excellent explanation on why a 5/8 inch seam allowance. I learned to sew using it and have stuck to it. I learned later how other sewers used a 1/2-inch seam allowance, which I experimented with a few times, but old habits never die. I prefer the 5/8-inch seam. I am going to incorporate your 3/8-inch seam allowance on the neckline technique; something I never thought to do.
Hi there - great video. To answer your question, I sort of feel like armholes, more specifically the underarm area might require a smaller seam allowance, depending on the fabric and design. Not sure if others feel the same. Thanks for keeping your channel going. It’s great!
It’s a shame that seam lines are no longer marked on each pattern piece. I presume we lost them with the advent of multi-size patterns. Not only did those markings make it easier to customize a seam allowance, but they made pattern adjustments easier as well, since those need to be based on the seam line, and not the edge of the pattern piece.
As many others here, I also use patterns that don't include seam allowances. I mainly use just 1cm seam allowance because it's easiest for me to measure and draw by eye (I add them to the pattern before cutting the fabric). For hems I sometimes use 3 cm, and most of the sewing instructions of my patterns have told to do so.
I learned to sew with my mom in Argentina 50 years ago and all the seam allowance mostly 1cm. Now since I started using American patterns I adjust the seam allowance depending on what part of the garment I’m sewing
I like 5/8" seam allowances because sewing is something I do without totaling concentrating on what I'm doing. Basically my hands are running on automatic while my brain is thinking about what I need to do at work, what I'll take to a family dinner or remembering an event from long ago. If I want to keep myself at the machine in order to quickly complete a project, immersing myself in a Netflix binge works best. While sewing is relaxing....thinking about it rather bores me. If I have to concentrate on a seam allowance change - chaos can ensue. If I need to remember a change in seam allowance, I have to mark it very clearly, even if it's "3/8"!" Written huge on a piece of paper laying on top of the piece. I have marked "3/8" with chalk on the wrong side of fabric and had to use my seam ripper on perfect 5/8" seams! On the rare occasion I have to cut a seam allowance short due to limited fabric to complete a project - THAT my brain always remembers for some reason.......
I stick to ⅝ seams because my daughter and wife are unusual shapes and I find, even after making a mock-up, the garments often need to be tweeked, depending on the fabric. I do like the ⅜ for the neck line and I may adopt that practice.
I read that the pattern companies agreed on 5/8 for consistency for the home sewer. I guess because it gives room for alterations and allows more space for wovens, which ravel more.
I've just started using Style Arc patterns; they have a standard 1 cm seam allowance, but 0.5 cm in many areas. This throws me out something chronic! (Especially as my default seam finishing is an enclosed one, usually either French seams or hand-felled seams, so you do need the width for the seam finishing). So I now cut those out bigger! They do show seam lines as well as cutting lines though, so it's easily enough to modify.
Very interesting! Most of my sewing is patchwork quilting, where the seam allowance is always 0.25" inches because it makes the math simpler. The seams are hidden and protected inside the finished quilt, so fraying isn't an issue.
Love it!! I’ve always wondered about 5/8ths....say, have you done a buttonhole video yet? My button foot isn’t working and I can’t figure it out. Going to make a manual one i suppose, but maybe it’s a good idea for a video you can make : )
I like having a little extra in the seam allowance as there always seems to be a little fiddling for that perfect fit, even with a good mock-up, and having that extra room for adjustments has saved me a few times. Especially with armholes 🤣
I suppose it’s partly what one’s “grown up” with. I grew up with the standard 5/8” / 1.5 cm for woven fabrics. A lot of “indie” patterns seem to use 1cm / 3/8 in. Normally this is OK, but I find this too narrow when fiddling with necklines, armseyes and French seams tbh. With 1.5 cm / 5/8 “ you have the flexibility to trim down or finish with binding etc.
I mostly use patterns/make my own patterns without any seam allowance. I trace the seamline onto the fabric using those carbon paper and rolly-things. 1.5 cm is still what I almost always use
Most of my clients I sew for I create their custom patterns. My seam allowances are measured at 5/8 th “ . However my rule goes according to what piece of the garment I am sewing I then apply the allowance needed for that seam.
Hi, Evelyn, I am just learning to use my serger so I like the 5/8 inch seam allowance. For fitting, I have used 4/8 or 1/2 inch down from 5/8 on the sides of a dress if I am concerned dress might be too tight. I like your idea of using 3/8 around the neckline to decrease the bulk and I will experiment with that in the future.
Hello Evelyn! Love your channel! I have a question for you and hope that you can help answer and sort out for me and I am sure for some others too! Why do some sewing patterns ask for us to sew the regular ⅝” seam allowance and then sew again ¼” from the original seam before we trim and finish seam? What does that do for the seam? How does it help the garment? Really hope to hear fro you again or watch a video on the subject matter. Thank you in advance! ❤
I also prefer 3/8in. Seam allowance at the neckline. When sewing knits I like to use a 3/8in seam allowance on most of the seams. Depending on how stable the fabric is ,l use a 3/8 in. on the neckline and the arm hole or sleeve . I don't like bulk on my necklines or where my sleeves go or my arms. If I have to trim I have been known to trim off more than I needed to, and ruin the whole thing. So for me if I am serging I use a seam allowance that I don't have to trim. Thanks for your help.
hi Evelyn, I use 5/8' (1.5cm) as per recommended on woven fabric (big 4) patterns, sometimes less for indie patterns and whatever is recommended for knits, generally 3/8''. I don't usually deviate, but it is good to know that I can if I ever want to save fabric and redraft with a narrower seam :)
The patterns (incl. commercial ones) that I use don't have seam allowance included. Usually I go for 1cm, and for very curved, intricate seams (i.e. toys) I have gone down to 0.5cm at times. That's enough for zig-zag, basting, and stitching.
My preferred seam allowance is the distance from the needle to the edge of the presser foot. I also work with patterns that don't have the seam allowance included. I do remember reading in a tailoring book that different places on the garment need different seam allowances. Curved lines are usually given narrower SA while the straight lines have a wider SA. Having to trim the fabric down in some places seems like a waste of time and energy for me.
A question: I am assuming (thanks Polly) that the seam allowance on any pattern piece that uses that same seam must also be adjusted. But what if, for comfortable fit, you need a smidge more room on an adjacent area? What if, for example, your back is more fleshy than your front? Could you solve that issue by using a narrower seam allowance on the side back seam?
I do mostly hand sewing right now so I often offset my seams so they're all ready to fell without trimming :) I'm mostly making my own patterns and I prefer my chalk line to be my sewing line so I don't include seam allowance on my own patterns. I did notice that on necklines, I've been repeating one pattern with a facing and yeah, I do 1/4" for the front neckline.
Oh Evelyn, you are always reading my mind. I was actually thinking about this question last week when I was doing lockdown sewing here in Brisbane. Btw I was wondering if you are still teaching pattern making/ pattern drafting these days? I would love to learn this useful skills.
Thank you Evelyn. Good information as always. I have wondered, but most seem to call for the 5/8ths. In another video you talked about easy vrs hard to sew fabrics. For the hard to sew, especially the easy fraying, a little wider , say even an inch maximum maybe needed due to machine pulling of fabric. May just want to buy a larger piece for preventive measures and hopefully no pulling. I used to make things without that seam allowance area and things wound up too tight or small. Seam allowances are so important. Building anything, like with carpentry and in sewing have to have it to keep it together, integrity, balance, stability, fit.
I was once told (by a tutu maker) that the standard 5/8" seam allowance was originally a mistake but I've yet to find any proof of this idea. Many older patterns do seem (see what I did there?) to have a variety of seam allowances eg 1" at the sides and 2" (or more!) at the hem and a variety of amounts on the armscye. If you read the instructions carefully you'll know what amount to allow where. Also worth mentioning that if you are drafting your own patterns this is generally done with NO seam allowance, as that is added when you pin your pattern to the fabric and cut it out.
Thank you so much!! This is just the video I needed this week. I have been making a fitted vest and had trouble with the bust. Lots of puckering etc because of the curves. I was wondering do you think a smaller seam allowance would help or is this a completely different issue lol
Hmm I must check the capabilities of my overlocker as I always use my sewing machine to stitch together and my overlocker to finish the edge. Maybe I can just use the overlocker. Maybe a video on that could be useful.
Robin, it's been my experience that the overlock-only seam works best on knits because of the way fabric is constructed. Usually, I, like you, stitch seams in woven fabrics then serge SA together. If, however, I'm sewing an item whose seams won't show like a pillow form, I've used serge only seams.
Thank you for this info on seam allowance. I always wondered why most patterns have a 1.5 seam allowance. I don't own an overlocker, I use an overcast/overlock foot. Is it a good idea to leave the seam at 1.5 but overstick them together? It saves cotton and time.
Most of my patterns have a 10mm seam allowance, but I prefer a 6-7mm allowance on a neckline. I rarely use a 'big 4' pattern, so haven't dealt with a 15mm seam allowance since the 1990s. If I'm doing French seams, I like 12mm. I don't redraw seams, just grade after the sewing.
I thought I understood this until I made the Set Sail Hat from P4P for my son. The pattern only includes 1/4" seam allowance (🤦♀️) and I thought that was kind of small but I didn't change it, made the hat and guess what happened after three washes 🥴 Why didn't I trust my judgement and just followed the instructions?!
Hi Evelyn. I've been looking for a video done by you covering trimming & grading seams. Could you please point me to one (if you have made one). Thank you.
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
Have any further questions? Leave them below and I might just make another video about it!
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Thanks for the great ideas and inspiration!
I'd love to know more about the blouse you are wearing in this video.
I draft all my patterns without seam allowances. my rule of thumb is 1cm seam allowance for curves (necklines, armholes, princess seams) and just under 1.5cm for everything else.
A hack I use to not have to draw the seam allowances or eyeball, is to use tiny magnets with 0.2cm thickness as the seam allowance guide. Just attach them to the tip of the scissors. Stack 5 pieces of magnets for 1cm allowance, or 7 for 1.4cm. Align the side of the magnet to your pattern, and you'll be cutting at your desired seam allowance.
I'm a beginning sewing student at age 56. and I love your videos. I was advised by a dear friend, who owns her own sewing Atelier Studio, to make your seams on your Twal or mockup One inch to start off with. After your fitting and you've worked out the fit, then you can give yourself any Seam Allowance you wish... pending the type of fashion fabric you are sewing with. She said to remember, your Seam allowance will always be on the inside of your garment. It's your eyes only... Have fun with it. Serge with Bright Colors if you want, as long as it's not going to show threw the fashion fabric. I want to thank you Evelyn for all you do here on your online sewing school and with this channel. We are with you and will be keeping you in our prayers!
I prefer 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) seam allowances for seams that need to be finished. The pressure foot is 1/4 inch, so I can easily make French seams just by following the pressure foot guide. If a seam is going to be enclosed, I use 1/4 inch to minimize bulk.
Ive been sewing for quite a number of years now, and I've recently discovered the joy of having a no-seam allowance pattern!
It started when i began making my own corset. The measurements on those have to be pinpoint accurate or things start to get wonky real fast. So you mark your SEWING LINE on the fabric and just cut however much extra around that line of fabric you feel you need.
So much easier to literally have the stitch line marked on the fabric for you to follow, and so much easier to match up pieces because you know the lines are right (no compounded mistakes due to over-happy scissors).
And the best part, is this means you dont have to adjust your pattern for different fabrics. The stitch line will almost always be the same, and you just manually adjust where you cut based on your fabric. I dont think I'll ever go back to built-in seam allowances... Stitch lines are queen!
A few things I was told for the 5/8 seam allowances was that old sewing didn't have the serger or worried to much about finishing the seam and it gave it room to fray without coming apart at the seams. The other ones were that you can bring it in or let it out with weight fluctuations as fabric wasn't cheap and people were always recycling old clothes into new wear and then the common one for modern day beginners is to have room for error.
I use 5/8 as I have only a straight stitch and it gives me room to cut or fold the edge under and trap it in the seam.
I do a 1/2” seam allowance on everything and then trim to suit before finishing. Usually it’s a French seam or bound seam (Hong Kong or both-in-bias) and my pieces have a lot of hand work, so the larger seam allowance during hand work and before true finishing allows for a wee bit of fray above the stay-stitching (.5cm from raw edge) to be fully trimmed off before finishing the seam fully
I always use a 2 cm seam allowance because you can make the garment bigger if needed. On armhole and neckline, 1 cm because it's easier with the curves. And on bottoms hems, 4 cm so that you can lengthen it later if needed.
So far the patterns I've used haven't included a seam allowance, so I've varied them depending on the fabric. Smaller for knits, wider for fabrics prone to fraying, then extra wide if I haven't had the time/energy to make a mock-up and want some leeway in case it doesn't fit...
Sound like exactly what I would do!
Same with me, I like to keep 1 inch seam allowance for the sides.Thats a standard that I use.I usually stitch cotton or cotton blended clothes. For the arm hole, I keep a seam allowance of half an inch & for the neckline it's a little bit more than quarter of an inch.
Evelyn always brightens my day. It's 10 or 15 minutes of badly needed escapism in a pandemic. You are really performing a service, my dear.
Seconded!
"So why do sewing patterns use 5/8 seam allowance for EVERYTHING?"
Because the 5/8 line on the needle plate of my sewing machine is twice as long as the other marks!
I wonder if that’s a chicken and the egg kind of dilemma. Did they start making it longer because the patterns had that seam allowance or did the pattern companies make it 5/8 because the sewing machines have that marking.
hahaha of course! I'm with @RachelLynn on the chicken and the egg situation... I think the sewing machine manufacturers added it, as very originally sewing patterns would have no seams allowance and you just added what you want!🙂
@@rachellynncreates2703 I made a comment about this further up....the 5/8ths has a historical root for specific reason..namely baleen - or whaleboning. 200 years later and an industry standard had a genuine historic reason :-)
I thought it was for French seams.
The extra room in the 5/8 seam allowance has saved me many times in my final fitting. Sometimes I add even more 😬
I was taught to make all vertical seams 1 inch for adjustments. My college instructor did that for garments with a small amount of designer ease. She was a fabulous teacher 🥰
That sounds right to me. Good advice by your teacher ✅
Thank you! I am a intermediate beginner so this is really useful.
I prefer a wider seam allowance; it can be trimmed down afterward, or if a garment is lined, It can later be altered to be let out or taken in.
This might seem silly but for my self made patterns I prefer a 1/2 inch because it is just easier to find the 1/2 “ line on my ruler than the teeny 3/8 or 5/8 lines. It is right in the middle and if it seems a bit bulky I can always trim it when I finish my seams. When I try the others I tend to accidentally miss-measure when drawing the patterns.
Kay I agree, I do the same.😉
I like using French seams, but I'm not super proficient with it yet, so I'll usually be generous with the SA just in case.
Personally i prefer like you narrow around the collar, but 1" at side seams and darts. Just sasd experience....I never get thinner! A bit of historical context. The standard of 1.5 cm seam allowance actually has historical roots. Aas you pointed out, 5/8ths was the min seam allowance to enable a variety of seam finishes before overlockers arrived. Many Victorian garments have this 5/8ths inch. However this seam width also allowed the slim whaleboning to be slipped along the seam - which was much finer than modern boning. Unlike today - where we have a "caseing" for the 1 cm boning, and place it evenly over the seam, many victorian seams had very slim baleen strips placed on each side of the seam for fine stabilisation, while making sure there is no extra bulk at the seam line.
How can i plan my seam allowance for serging and stitching please?
@@JojoAde Interesting you should ask. If you use a 4 thread overlocker, with both needles, not just 3 threads, and if you use a standard generic presser foot that comes with your sewing machine, as a rule the edge of the presser foot, when aligned against the 4 thread serged edge - the stitch line is then at exactly the 1.5 cm in. So, no need to make extra alllowance for full width serging, as those measurements are built into the combination of the width of the serging and then the size of an avergae presser foot. HTH. 🙂 try it out on a scrap piece of fabric and see how you go - im curious to know how you go. Good luck
@@JojoAde Sorry - I should add, my advice assumes you have serged the edges before stitching together. SOme people stitch the seam then serge both seams together. I almost never do this as it makes unpicking and altering almost impossible in a neat way. 🙂
I liked how this was practical advice and a little history lesson as well. I never would've guessed it originated from the majority of home sewn fabrics being woven!
I learned to sew on Burda patterns, which don't include seam allowance...but 1,5cm for seams and 4cm for hems is what they recommend and it's a hard to break habit. And hey, if it ain't broken, why fix it? It sometimes means, having to cut back seam allowances, but I'd rather do that, than not have any 'wriggle room' at all.
I agree Rara, I like to have that little extra for fitting adjustment as you go too!
Weird! The burda pattern that I just worked definitely had seam allowances included- maybe it’s a regional difference? I got annoyed because the instructions included a bit about trimming down the de allowance at the armhole before sewing it, which makes sense, but I would so much rather that they had just given less allowance there in the first place- I have other patterns that do that.
@@katarinamay710
Could be! Would make sense, to adapt the patterns to the international market. But I also only ever used the magazine, not the individual patterns. Maybe there's a difference.
And yeah - I like to recommend to people, to always read the sewing instructions in full, before they even cut into the fabric. Because there's often something, you might want to do differently.
I like to be able, to adjust fit a little, even after the garment is finished, for example. Cause I have gained and lost (and gained and lost) weight several times in my life already and just can't seem to settle on one dress size permanently. So I plan accordingly, when I construct garments and avoid side seam zippers, for example - or finishing the waistband in a way, that turns alterations into a big hassle.
And if I do a rolled hem, I obviously don't want to cut a full hem allowance. It almost always pays, to plan ahead a little 😉
For Burda and Burda easy at least in Germany they're without seam allowance and also my granny's old Burda magazine stash are net patterns. Maybe that helps?
Burda printed patterns (at least the ones sold in the UK) now have included seam allowances; but I think the magazines don't?
This is why I prefer patterns that don't include seam allowances. It is easier to concentrate on the stitch line and many times the seam allowance doesn't matter much as long as the fit is OK and the fabric doesn't fray.
Yep. I draft most of my own patterns, without seam allowance. Then when I cut it, I usually cut to about 1/2 though I usually don’t bother being super accurate unless I’m sewing by machine for French seams or machine sewn flat felled seams. Then I make sure to be a bit more accurate about my SA, so I can get an accurate 1/4 finished seam.
But I mostly hand sew (which makes marking the seam line even more important). I cut to about 1/2 in, which leaves room to fray, then I hand fell- which I do by cutting one seam allowance to 1/4, and the other to just under 1/8th, folding the larger and encasing the smaller. I end up with a finished seam of about 1/8th, which is my preferred seam width for hand sewn garments. If I’m doing a hand rolled hem, I cut to 1/4, then trim to 1/8th before rolling, or doing a ladder stitch.
I agree. It was a sad development when Burda began including seam allowances.
I sewed a skirt using a pattern with no seam allowance and I found it so much easier
@@lorieburtt592 I disagree. I rather have them put a very accurate SA digitally, rather than me having to add a SA manually, which is more prone to error (and time consuming...)
In Italy it's common not to include seam allowance in patterns and I was surprised when I found that abroad it's included. Knowing that you can add whatever allowance you want when you cut the pattern, makes it so much easier! At leas in my eyes...
A few years ago a I was watching a professional designer and sewing teacher who uses 3/8 or 1 cm when attaching sleeves also. I have used this since and for me it works very well. You are a very good, engaging teacher. So easily understandable and easy to listen to.
I can't do it on every fabric but for me it makes such a difference if I can mark the stitch line with a tracing wheel. This way I am not relying on the edge of the pattern for all measurements. By the time it has frayed a bit, stretched a bit or been notched or trimmed, it is easy to lose track of the stitch line. Worst is when you have to go back and redo something you have already overlocked and trimmed. Matching a new pattern piece (I had to recut the back bodice) with the 5/8 allowance to the rest of the dress that now had less than 1cm seam allowance and had frayed a bit was -a s**. I am amazed it worked out but it did. Mark the stitch line!
I do use the narrower seam for necklines and armscyes. It just dawned on me that that awkward fraction is a very neat centimeter. THat was a "duh" moment.
That 3/8” neckline? Don’t forget to also adjust the seam allowance on corresponding facings, linings or collars! 😊
Thank you fot stating that!
Hello 👋👋 dear.
@@rebeccacamacho-sobczak4282
Hello 👋👋 dear.
I usually self draft or work with indie patterns, and recently I did a project with a 1.5cm seam allowance (rather than my usual 1cm allowance). Any seam allowance wider than the foot annoys me because I can't line up the fabric edge with the foot😅
It's all what we get used to right! 😄
This isn't about patterns with seam allowance but what I do with seam allowances. Sometimes seams, especially zips on seams, can be scratchy. I hand sew the seam down to the lining or the seam allowance to stop the itch and sometimes put some soft ribbon over if it's still itchy.
As you said “Don’t just sew the seam allowance smaller,” I think I blushed and kinda hung my head.😂 Lesson learned.👍
I was reading your comment exactly at the same time as Evelyn said it, spooky! Don't worry darling, I'm a new stitchling and I too hang my head at this too.... we're learning!😘💋❤
@@oliviaknight1123 ❤️❤️❤️
Hahahaha 😂 But of course we have ALL made this mistake at one time, and then of course blame the pattern for not fitting as planned! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@Evelyn__Wood 🪡❤️👍
On the patterns I create and those I significantly alter, I always use 1/2-inch seam allowance because it makes the math simple! Thank you for all your posts!
I mainly use natural woven fibers for garments and in many cases for side seams I like to use 2.2-2.5 cm allowing the garment to be easily adjusted if needed. I have seen this in many tailored garments and appreciate when a garment can grow with you, if needed.
Around curves like necklines and armholes, I prefer to keep the seam allowances between 1-1.5 cm to reduce bulk in those areas.
I believe you gave excellent advice. It seems like this topic is rarely discussed, but using your preferred seam allowances really does improve your sewing. I also like using 3/8" on collars and necklines. I think the smaller allowances make matching curves a bit easier and require less pinning. (I pin a lot!) The one thing I wish you had mentioned was that a standard seam gauge is a great way to add seam allowances. The full width is 5/8" and you can use the inside lines to each side to get a 1/4" or a 3/8".
Nadine you're right a seam gauge is a great tool and I do recommend it, but it's not for me! I never use one actually!
@@Evelyn__Wood Wow, I’m impressed!!! No doubt you’re experienced enough to eyeball it. As for me, I’d probably have a nervous breakdown if my half dozen or so seam gauges all disappeared.
I use the seam gauge when I am redrafting my patterns. At 4'10" and 112 lbs., I have come to the realization that most of my patterns involve a LOT of prep! Pattern tracing paper, mixing in 2 sizes, shortening the length, hip-to-waist, crotch...what else!?
It was engrained in me a long time ago (dating myself here) to use a 5/8th seam allowance. Something about wiggle room if I had to change the fit. I was never taught to make a mock up.
Absolutely Debbie! It certainly does give you more wiggle room for fitting adjustments, even if you do a toile, every time you make it up in a different fabric it still fits differently. It's like a tiny safety net 😄
Me, too!!!
I prefer to cut all seams down to 1/4" if I can. It just feels finer and neater. I'm also just getting into historical sewing techniques, and I'm finding I appreciate just a bit more wiggle as I go.
I hate 5/8" seam allowances, and use patterns that mostly have 1/2" or 3/8". I can't imagine putting in a sleeve, even in the flat with 5/8" seam allowance. If I am working with a pattern that has 5/8, I cut down both the neckline, sleeve head, and armskye to 3/8". However, that being said, when making a muslin trail garment, I often sew 1" seam allowances on the vertical seams to have room for fitting.
Your video is, as always very informative, and I enjoy watching them.
omg, you are great! just starting to sew and watched a handful of your videos already. thank you for being so thorough and fun too. keep it on
Excellent explanation on why a 5/8 inch seam allowance. I learned to sew using it and have stuck to it. I learned later how other sewers used a 1/2-inch seam allowance, which I experimented with a few times, but old habits never die. I prefer the 5/8-inch seam. I am going to incorporate your 3/8-inch seam allowance on the neckline technique; something I never thought to do.
Hi there - great video. To answer your question, I sort of feel like armholes, more specifically the underarm area might require a smaller seam allowance, depending on the fabric and design. Not sure if others feel the same. Thanks for keeping your channel going. It’s great!
It’s a shame that seam lines are no longer marked on each pattern piece. I presume we lost them with the advent of multi-size patterns. Not only did those markings make it easier to customize a seam allowance, but they made pattern adjustments easier as well, since those need to be based on the seam line, and not the edge of the pattern piece.
As many others here, I also use patterns that don't include seam allowances. I mainly use just 1cm seam allowance because it's easiest for me to measure and draw by eye (I add them to the pattern before cutting the fabric). For hems I sometimes use 3 cm, and most of the sewing instructions of my patterns have told to do so.
I learned to sew with my mom in Argentina 50 years ago and all the seam allowance mostly 1cm. Now since I started using American patterns I adjust the seam allowance depending on what part of the garment I’m sewing
Love your nails 😍 and your explanations as well....😄
I like 5/8" seam allowances because sewing is something I do without totaling concentrating on what I'm doing. Basically my hands are running on automatic while my brain is thinking about what I need to do at work, what I'll take to a family dinner or remembering an event from long ago. If I want to keep myself at the machine in order to quickly complete a project, immersing myself in a Netflix binge works best. While sewing is relaxing....thinking about it rather bores me.
If I have to concentrate on a seam allowance change - chaos can ensue. If I need to remember a change in seam allowance, I have to mark it very clearly, even if it's "3/8"!" Written huge on a piece of paper laying on top of the piece. I have marked "3/8" with chalk on the wrong side of fabric and had to use my seam ripper on perfect 5/8" seams!
On the rare occasion I have to cut a seam allowance short due to limited fabric to complete a project - THAT my brain always remembers for some reason.......
I stick to ⅝ seams because my daughter and wife are unusual shapes and I find, even after making a mock-up, the garments often need to be tweeked, depending on the fabric. I do like the ⅜ for the neck line and I may adopt that practice.
I like the extra wiggle room too! As you're right, every fabric is different and it's nice to have that safety net right!
Love that you sew for your loved ones!!
I read that the pattern companies agreed on 5/8 for consistency for the home sewer. I guess because it gives room for alterations and allows more space for wovens, which ravel more.
I would love a video tour of your sewing room!
I've been using some patterns, that call for 1/2" seams, lately.
When I draft my own pattern ( if I call it that!), I like using a 1/2" seam. It's just easier for me.
All my burning questions answered, thank you 🙏
I'm glad to hear it! 😃
I've just started using Style Arc patterns; they have a standard 1 cm seam allowance, but 0.5 cm in many areas. This throws me out something chronic! (Especially as my default seam finishing is an enclosed one, usually either French seams or hand-felled seams, so you do need the width for the seam finishing). So I now cut those out bigger! They do show seam lines as well as cutting lines though, so it's easily enough to modify.
As usual the video is very informative. Love it.
I started quilting. I’m used to 1/4 in on everything so that’s what I use.
Same. I knew I couldn’t be the only one!
Me too, it must be a quilters thing 😉
Very interesting! Most of my sewing is patchwork quilting, where the seam allowance is always 0.25" inches because it makes the math simpler. The seams are hidden and protected inside the finished quilt, so fraying isn't an issue.
Anybody who can suggest the best sewing channel
As usual very practical
Love it!! I’ve always wondered about 5/8ths....say, have you done a buttonhole video yet? My button foot isn’t working and I can’t figure it out. Going to make a manual one i suppose, but maybe it’s a good idea for a video you can make : )
I like having a little extra in the seam allowance as there always seems to be a little fiddling for that perfect fit, even with a good mock-up, and having that extra room for adjustments has saved me a few times. Especially with armholes 🤣
Hi dear, thank you for sharing your sewing tips and tricks with us. I love your style. full watch support
I absolutely love the top you're wearing! I assume you made it yourself ;), do you have a tutorial/pattern for this somewhere?
I suppose it’s partly what one’s “grown up” with. I grew up with the standard 5/8” / 1.5 cm for woven fabrics.
A lot of “indie” patterns seem to use 1cm / 3/8 in. Normally this is OK, but I find this too narrow when fiddling with necklines, armseyes and French seams tbh. With 1.5 cm / 5/8 “ you have the flexibility to trim down or finish with binding etc.
Thank you for the information!
I mostly use patterns/make my own patterns without any seam allowance. I trace the seamline onto the fabric using those carbon paper and rolly-things. 1.5 cm is still what I almost always use
This was a great topic for me. Good thinking!
Thank you! I have always wondered this.
I'm glad to help!
I sometimes cut with up to a 1" seam especially on the bottom to allow for tweeking but also to an underlining with wools to allow for alterations.
Most of my clients I sew for I create their custom patterns. My seam allowances are measured at 5/8 th “ .
However my rule goes according to what piece of the garment I am sewing I then apply the allowance needed for that seam.
smart! It saves a step. T hank you
Hi, Evelyn, I am just learning to use my serger so I like the 5/8 inch seam allowance. For fitting, I have used 4/8 or 1/2 inch down from 5/8 on the sides of a dress if I am concerned dress might be too tight. I like your idea of using 3/8 around the neckline to decrease the bulk and I will experiment with that in the future.
Love that hat on her... Though that's off topic. 🤠
I love all of her outfits. She is just toooooo cool!
Thank you.
Hello Evelyn! Love your channel! I have a question for you and hope that you can help answer and sort out for me and I am sure for some others too!
Why do some sewing patterns ask for us to sew the regular ⅝” seam allowance and then sew again ¼” from the original seam before we trim and finish seam?
What does that do for the seam? How does it help the garment?
Really hope to hear fro you again or watch a video on the subject matter. Thank you in advance! ❤
I also prefer 3/8in. Seam allowance at the neckline. When sewing knits I like to use a 3/8in seam allowance on most of the seams. Depending on how stable the fabric is ,l use a 3/8 in. on the neckline and the arm hole or sleeve . I don't like bulk on my necklines or where my sleeves go or my arms. If I have to trim I have been known to trim off more than I needed to, and ruin the whole thing. So for me if I am serging I use a seam allowance that I don't have to trim. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for that Evelyn !
hi Evelyn, I use 5/8' (1.5cm) as per recommended on woven fabric (big 4) patterns, sometimes less for indie patterns and whatever is recommended for knits, generally 3/8''. I don't usually deviate, but it is good to know that I can if I ever want to save fabric and redraft with a narrower seam :)
The patterns (incl. commercial ones) that I use don't have seam allowance included.
Usually I go for 1cm, and for very curved, intricate seams (i.e. toys) I have gone down to 0.5cm at times. That's enough for zig-zag, basting, and stitching.
Oh yes! The tiny 5mm, the trickiest of them all to sew! But sometimes it just makes sense right!
My preferred seam allowance is the distance from the needle to the edge of the presser foot. I also work with patterns that don't have the seam allowance included. I do remember reading in a tailoring book that different places on the garment need different seam allowances. Curved lines are usually given narrower SA while the straight lines have a wider SA.
Having to trim the fabric down in some places seems like a waste of time and energy for me.
A question: I am assuming (thanks Polly) that the seam allowance on any pattern piece that uses that same seam must also be adjusted. But what if, for comfortable fit, you need a smidge more room on an adjacent area? What if, for example, your back is more fleshy than your front? Could you solve that issue by using a narrower seam allowance on the side back seam?
I do mostly hand sewing right now so I often offset my seams so they're all ready to fell without trimming :) I'm mostly making my own patterns and I prefer my chalk line to be my sewing line so I don't include seam allowance on my own patterns. I did notice that on necklines, I've been repeating one pattern with a facing and yeah, I do 1/4" for the front neckline.
Thank you for answering my question, now it makes sense.
Thank you for the video. I was wondering how to decide how much seam to keep.
Oh Evelyn, you are always reading my mind. I was actually thinking about this question last week when I was doing lockdown sewing here in Brisbane. Btw I was wondering if you are still teaching pattern making/ pattern drafting these days? I would love to learn this useful skills.
Thank you I always wondered about this issue. 👍
Thank you Evelyn. Good information as always. I have wondered, but most seem to call for the 5/8ths. In another video you talked about easy vrs hard to sew fabrics. For the hard to sew, especially the easy fraying, a little wider , say even an inch maximum maybe needed due to machine pulling of fabric. May just want to buy a larger piece for preventive measures and hopefully no pulling. I used to make things without that seam allowance area and things wound up too tight or small. Seam allowances are so important. Building anything, like with carpentry and in sewing have to have it to keep it together, integrity, balance, stability, fit.
I was once told (by a tutu maker) that the standard 5/8" seam allowance was originally a mistake but I've yet to find any proof of this idea. Many older patterns do seem (see what I did there?) to have a variety of seam allowances eg 1" at the sides and 2" (or more!) at the hem and a variety of amounts on the armscye. If you read the instructions carefully you'll know what amount to allow where. Also worth mentioning that if you are drafting your own patterns this is generally done with NO seam allowance, as that is added when you pin your pattern to the fabric and cut it out.
Thank you so much!! This is just the video I needed this week. I have been making a fitted vest and had trouble with the bust. Lots of puckering etc because of the curves. I was wondering do you think a smaller seam allowance would help or is this a completely different issue lol
Thanks sooo much for sharing!❤️
Excellent topic
I regularly choose my own seam allowance.....because I never actually thought to measure it on the machine 😂
hahahaha 😂 I bet you are now making more constantly sized garments though!
Hmmmm, wondering why I’m hanging out on a sewing channel…… btw, you’re a gorgeous woman!
Excellent explanation! Thank you for sharing!
Hmm I must check the capabilities of my overlocker as I always use my sewing machine to stitch together and my overlocker to finish the edge. Maybe I can just use the overlocker. Maybe a video on that could be useful.
Robin, it's been my experience that the overlock-only seam works best on knits because of the way fabric is constructed. Usually, I, like you, stitch seams in woven fabrics then serge SA together. If, however, I'm sewing an item whose seams won't show like a pillow form, I've used serge only seams.
Thank you for this info on seam allowance. I always wondered why most patterns have a 1.5 seam allowance. I don't own an overlocker, I use an overcast/overlock foot. Is it a good idea to leave the seam at 1.5 but overstick them together? It saves cotton and time.
Thank you!
Most of my patterns have a 10mm seam allowance, but I prefer a 6-7mm allowance on a neckline. I rarely use a 'big 4' pattern, so haven't dealt with a 15mm seam allowance since the 1990s. If I'm doing French seams, I like 12mm. I don't redraw seams, just grade after the sewing.
One nice thing about quilting is that everything is 1/4 inch seam allowance almost all the time!
Yep,it’s easy that way.
Couture garments have a full one inch seam. Sometimes that’s even better.
I thought I understood this until I made the Set Sail Hat from P4P for my son. The pattern only includes 1/4" seam allowance (🤦♀️) and I thought that was kind of small but I didn't change it, made the hat and guess what happened after three washes 🥴
Why didn't I trust my judgement and just followed the instructions?!
Had you washed the fabric beforehand?
@@janicecrosby1986 yes, it was a chambray - too prone to fraying for 1/4"
I use the same seam allowance for most things unless the type of fabric might need some extra or less.
I go bigger allowance in seams where I think I might have to let out. Think hips and thighs.
Hi Evelyn. I've been looking for a video done by you covering trimming & grading seams. Could you please point me to one (if you have made one). Thank you.
Seam allowance are good for expanding the size when necessary.
I secretly thought leaving 2 centimeters, because when it's too tight by accident, I still have room to correct it.
But don't tell anyone.