I ditched the standard 5/8" seam allowance (long time ago...) Here's WHY?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- Dear Sewing Friends, in this video let's talk about seam allowance. You have probably noticed in my sewing and drafting videos that I largely use narrow seam allowances, like 3/8" or 1/4", and I always seem to get questions about it, as standard seam allowance in most commercial pattern is 5/8" on all seams. That actually might be the cause of some of the sewing troubles you might be having. I truly hope that this video will give you a different perspective and give you the freedom to use other seam allowances, to sew faster and to get better results!
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What seam allowance do YOU prefer?
I like a 1/2in because I use French seams and the large seam allowance is nice 😁
@@pooksmagoo6521 in this case, for sure!
1 cm
I use 3/8” more often when I use overlock machine so it can cut 1/8 and finishes the overlock stitch neatly. But sometimes I use 1/4 for thicker fabric that I don’t want the overlock machine to cut because it’s just going to dull the knife sooner or might cause problems. I don’t use 5/8” unless I use a pattern that calls for it. If I create my own patterns like following your tutorial, I use 1/4 or 3/8.
I prefer a 3/8 inch seam. It seems to make a cleaner seam.
Finally, someone that can clearly explain seam allowances to me.
During the war 5/8" seam allowances were used to be able to alter garments.Also home sewers tended to use pinkering shears to finish the seams.This finish stopped garments unravelling, when wearing and washing.Couture still use this technique today as it gives a more authentic look. I've been using this technique for most of my makes since the 60's and they've lasted many years.On finer fabrics I always use french seams and during the war and couture use this. I can see the value in using 3/8"allowances when using an overlocker.
I learned to sew in the 70's using 5/8 which came in handy when making well tailored jackets and pants. On heavier fabrics, I'd use hem tape ironed in half to encase each raw edge to finish them even though many were lined.
@Sara H I learned to sew in the 70s but I was about 7 years old. I learned how to thread a machine and make a straight seam line before I was10.
It wasn't until Jr High before I learned to read a pattern in Home Ecc. I got used to 5/8 until I started quilting, which used 1/4. I sewn for American Girl dolls and they want a 1/4 inch, too. (Sewing for Barbie, uses 1/8)
Wow so logic.now for the first time in my 47 years of life i understand why patterns are always bigger than my size.thankyou so much
I love your different seams you showed . You're a great teachers. God Bless you.
I never understood why we had 5/8” seams and then trimmed them off 🤷♀️ I agree with you 👍
I don't know when the 5/8 inch seam allowance became standard but historically people wore their clothes for years and having larger seam allowances enabled them to let out their clothing if they grew or gained weight. Also, a wider seam allowance allows you to finish your seams with french seams, bias binding, or felling instead of a serger (which are expensive and are relatively new in the history of garment construction) or a zigzag (which is a bit untidy looking). I like to use a half inch seam allowance for everything I draft myself as I don't have a serger and my feed dogs/presser feet work better with a wider seam allowance.
I thought to mention being able to let out your clothes, but I don't remember the time when I actually did that... Just like I mentioned in this video - I use 1/2 or 5/8 for a certain seam finish just like you.
Easy. Because for the rest of the word that is 1cm.
@@ThoughtfulCreativity r5.1p
Lol, in the past 20 years my size has gone up and down so many times. If I'd had self made clothes in the past I think I'd have tried to alter them because they are precious to me. But maybe I'd be too lazy.😁
@@nataliestanchevski4628 I see, I don't change in size much... Well, after giving birth I have a little "belly pouch" but it does not affect the fit of the clothes I made before, but I do factor it in when I sew right now. Historical garment making always fascinates me - so many interesting details and reasons for what and how clothes are made, even the fact how clothes were washed back in the day...
YES! THANK YOU! I've been saying this for years! No notching, no crazy trimming! SO glad you said this!!
he he, that's how I feel as well :) we found each other!
@@ThoughtfulCreativity 😁
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I too follow the edge of my presser foot. So probably 1cm or 3/8". Just makes it easier for me to keep a neat seam :)
Exactly!
Great video. I have loved watching all of them. They are very informative and you teach in a very understandable way. I think you are super pleasant and I even listen while I work. I love your voice and your positivity and you are my new favorite find! And I love the byeeeee! I say it with you.
I needed my tape measure handy for this. Had to keep pausing to convert to metric 😅
I generally line the edge of my fabric with the edge of the presser foot because it's a lot easier take things in rather than let them out.
Personally I prefer 1/2 “ when drafting my own patterns. As a sewist returning to sewing (I used to sew a lot as a child, and stopped when older life distracted me) a 1/2” allows more room for error. Trimming and finishing my seams as I go in the way that I see is best for the seam is not an issue for me and 1/2” gives me more options to do that. I don’t have a serger and often prefer finishing my seams by hand through a felled seam. But I am not really sewing for speed but as a form of relaxation and recreation. If I were to sew for speed I would certainly agree with you.
Kayla, great thoughts! Totally agree with you that finding what works for you is the best, whatever makes it the most enjoyable and most sense for you :)
Sewist? Seamstress?
You are my favourite channel, informative and so easy to understand. Thank you sweet Elisa
Wow, thank you, my pleasure!
High end clothing still use the French Seam which needs 5/8" seam allowance and so do I.
I have a Singer treadle and l adore sewing with it - no zig zag, no overlocking/serger. Also it is quicker than setting up my overlocker. Love your channel, many thanks for all you do.
Not all fabric can handle French seams, + just because it is a French seam does not mean it is good. Don't get to me wrong, I love using French Seams, I just disagree that it is the only way to call clothing "high end" or "done well".
@@ThoughtfulCreativity Did I sound like I was implying that it was the only way? In the UK it is a common finish in expensive lightweight clothing.
@@eileenfb1948 Eileen, I feel it sounded that way... but it might have been the way I read it. Either way, I did not take your comment in a negative way and I apologize if mine came off like that. I feel it is totally fine to disagree and have different opinions - that's how we learn, find things that we like or don't. I appreciate your thoughts and expertise, even if I disagree with it :)
@@ThoughtfulCreativity Yes, Lisa, it probably did sound that way - I just hastily typed my reply .. and people new to sewing might not be familiar with the items you pointed out. Also it could sound like I was bragging - no!
My apologies for that.
Love your channel and your energy AND how you show us to do things, brilliant!
Lots of love from Scotland
This information makes perfect sense! I don't know why I hadn't thought of this myself. Thanks so much for sharing.
OMG you're a genius! I like to use 1cm when making the pattern because it is easy to apply (and kinda aligns with a line on the plate on my machine when sewing) and I just measured my zig-zag foot and compared with the different positions on my machine as well (left, middle and right). The distances from left, middle and right to the right end of the foot are 1cm, 7mm and 5mm respectively, so that can make for an easy switch between the 5mm and 1cm seam allowance without changing the foot or the alignment method. ❤
I was waiting for a video from you. As you said, for curves, smaller seam allowances are great. Thanks for the details.
Yay :)
Excellent analogy!!!!! Ty for sharing!
Very good video. I use 3/8 s.a. almost exclusively. If a pattern calls for a 5/8 s.a I will use it unless I want to give myself more ease. I don’t like 5/8 s.a at all!
Very informative. Thanks Alisa. 💜✂️🧵
hello miss Alisa i don't know if you remember me but i just wanted to thank you i tried the pattern and the sewing tricks you recemmended to me to do with woven fabric and it turned out so good
thank you so much again your videos are so helful , hope you read this message :D
I do remember You, glad everything turned out great!
The smaller seam allowance also helps conserve fabric when you are squeezing all you can from a pretty remnant. 😊
Completely agree with everything you said. I prefer 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch too whenever possible. It's so much easier to sew straight using the edge of the foot as you pointed out as well as for curves. I never liked having to cut into seams on a curve. It doesn't look neat even if you don't see it and is a waste of time. Always look forward to your great advice and videos!!! You are my favorite sewing channel & teacher.
In the 3/8” seam allowance example at the beginning…that’s assuming your needles is the the “center” position. I normally align my fabric along the edge of the presser foot and move my needle left or right to achieve different seam allowances.
If you can move the needle yes, and of course, you need to try on a scrap fabric first and measure. When my needle is in the center position the 3/8 guide underneath still does not produce 3/8, closer to 1/2.
@@ThoughtfulCreativity I have the same exact machine as you. Is your needle to the right in the video?
Thank you for sharing.
Appreciate all the different types of of seam allowance for different projects.
For the first 2 garments I made, I started with 1 inch seam allowance only because I was just being far too careful and probably worried far too much. I ended up snipping about half an inch off when I tidied the seams! As I got more confident on my 3rd garment, I started to reduce the seam allowance to about half an inch. Practice makes perfect, I guess.
Absolutely! In sewing practice is everything. And... Just have to find what works for you, and totally hear you about worries when working with smaller seam allowances.
I did the same thing. It is easier for me to "sight" a half inch. I like one inch seam allowances if I am pinking. The feet that came with my sewing machines are mostly quarter-inch. I ignore the industry five-eights on commercial patterns because I generally modify and fit them anyway.
I had to rewatch this excellent video.
Thank you for addressing this topic, such a helpful tool thank you thank you ❤️❤️❤️
Thanks for that good thought
Anywhere from 5/8 to a full inch. If it's a casual item, I'll trim it down. For tailored items, I prefer the wider seam allowance - I can let out/take in at will. Once you're trimmed it away, you can't get it back.
Love this technique!
It is a good tip to cut down your seam allowances so it is easier to sew curves.
Thanks Alisa. This is so helpful. I came to dressmaking after years of patchwork & quilting so was very confident with a quarter inch seam. I found the 5/8th in seam allowance in paper patterns to be unwieldy and cumbersome so went back to smaller seams like you.
Thank you so much for those tips. I usually use the edge of my presser foot as measurement for my seams. I also agree on the different seams for different makes. Can't wait for that too video. Blessed weekend my dear.
Thank u so much for this I use my serger a lot to sew clothes and my pattens are big didn’t think about the seam allows I just been putting them on top of the clothes that I already have and adding a inch or use a little bigger size on the pattern now I know y when I don’t line my clothes up I don’t like directions lol
I can’t say I’m ambitious enough to remove SA from commercial patterns, but if I draft my own I almost always use a smaller SA. like 1/4” or 3/8” if I’m using a serger. 1/2” or 3/8” when I’m using a sewing machine. Sometimes it depends on the fabric, and how easily it is to manipulate it. I’m fascinated with Fashion industry techniques, such as smaller SA, like you pointed out Alisa. But ya, whatever works for you:) Less fabric is used with smaller seam allowances too!
I think it is easier for me to cut out the pattern with the seam allowance provided, stitch at 5/8 and serge off the excess than to cut off the excess seam allowance before sewing at 3/8. I am just used to 5/8 now I think. I recently made the Grainland Studio Linden sweatshirt which has only 1/4 inch seams and I struggled sewing such narrow seams with curling, slippery jersey fabric. I would have liked a wider seam on that project.
I’ve used small seam allowance and I only returned to sewing recently. My mom always used small seam allowances. I just completed things the way I saw her do it 🤣
I think, or assume, the only reason for a 5/8 seam allowance is there is a bit more room for adjustments. But I also think that it's a suggestion that has become more of a rule. I think we've lost a lot of creativity in sewing with all the patterns and "how to"s. I know I'm much more critical of my makes than I am of store bought items.
100% agree, I do think that you're right - we have partially lost the creativity in sewing (that's what I would love to bring back). Creativity and problem solving as well - so many things in sewing can be done outside of the normal "this is how you do it".
Hi Alisa!! Years ago I stopped using the 5/8” SA.. I prefer 1/4”only….
💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵
Nice! I do like 1/4 as well!
A few things to add from watching other channels and such. 3/8 in = 1 cm, 5/8 in = 1.5 cm. So the smaller is simpler. The larger is standard for commercial patterns because, according to a vintage seamstress I follow, home sewists almost always worked with woven fabrics more prone to unraveling.
Historical fashion people I follow often say that Victorians would have used sergers if they had them. The one I've found most popular and commonly recommended is less than $300, so calling them expensive seems weird when the average sewing machines used by those same sewists making those recommendations _start_ at double that or are vintage machines that require professional upkeep. If you personally hate the look of serged seams and edges, or can't afford hundreds on a machine, perfectly fine. But if you're avoiding the ease of serged seams just because you think it's wildly expensive or not "proper," let that go and make your life easier.
I've always hated trimming off the excess. Like why?
I'm working on a project that has a 3/8 seam allowance it is much easier to show the cups in.
I guess I've never thought about changing those simplicity patterns
My garments are pretty well made as well. I always sew 3/8 of inch and then sew again with a 1/4 with a serger. I need to do that because I'm sooooooo hard on clothing.
To me it depend of what fabric I will be using. I personally prefer 1/2 to 5/8 inch allowance for my self drafted pattern for woven fabric so I have a wiggle room. If I know I will be using Jersey knit fabric then 3/8 to 1/4 seam allowance is good since most likely I will be using my overlocker.
Years ago, I read an article which stated that Europeans generally don’t use the 5/8 inch seam allowance, but use different sizes for different places on the pattern. Some places of the garment would be sewn with 1/4 and others with 3/8. I don’t remember the details, but thought it made sense.
Yep, I grew up in Europe and that is very common.
I most commonly follow the edge of my presser foot. I find it gives me the neatest finish. I am teaching my daughter this method as I feel it is also the simplest to start of with.
Love it, same here! Easy to follow, clean, no headache. I love that you are teaching your daughter as well- awesome! What does she like to sew?
@@ThoughtfulCreativity we will be starting on a reversible bag soon, which she bought herself with her birthday money.
@@YouullNeverWalkAlone Oh, so exciting!
Thank you this was so helpful.
I use 1 inch on muslins, then 5/8 if I’m going to serge each side separately.
A big seam allowance on a muslin is really handy to fine tune the fit.
Question:
Comercial patterns come with 5/8 seam allowance for the most part; do you chop the 2/8 to end up with 3/8 if that's what you desire? And if so do you do it to the tissue pattern or to the already cut part?
I took many sewing, tailoring, flat pattetn design, and textiles classes in the 1960's. I was told wider seam allowances was a sign of quality. The Bishop Method was the text. I use a lot of hand stitching like in couture.
I like to use 1/4 of an inch.
Hi from BC Canada, thank you for all your hard work and wonderful information. I am a mature woman, who is trying to get back into sewing as a hobby. I am challenged every day! I am looking for a raglan pattern for linen with/without darts to sew. I only seem to find patterns (free) that are for knits…… Any recommendations you could provide on your channel would be GREAT! I try to recycle large men’s shirts (linen) from the thrift stores…. I find wonderful material and colours, but GOOD patterns are very scarce. I actually like most of the old patterns from the 70-90’s…… Wonderful items on Pinterest but their prices are steep.. Let me know what you suggest or have in your pattern STASH. Again, many thanks from up here in BC and I watch your channel every day, Regards, Georgia
I just realized that I have not really paid attention to seam allowance in quite some time. Since I have issues with my sewing machine I have been hand sewing for the last few years (could not get it repaired because of covid), and most of the things I make is hand drafted and it did not matter, so I often just guessed at what felt right. Although, I do remember loving matching the edge of the fabric to the foot, but I also remember using a piece of masking tape as a guide for seams too. So I guess it is safe to say that I did at one point care about seam allowance. Since things are opening up and I am hoping to start upping my sewing I guess I should start paying attention to the seams again.
1/4 inch is my favourite .
If the pattern says five eights of a seam allowance is that also around the collar where you would be putting a band? I ask as I plan on trimming back some of my seam allowances.
I usually use 3/8" = 1cm on wovens but on the ones that fray easily I go up to 1/2" =13mm and on knits I go for 1/4"=7mm so that I don't have to cut anything off with the serger ..
in a commercial situation, then small seams save on fabric. I am new to machine sewing, having only made garments by hand. Personally I use the edge of the foot as a guide. My machine is basic and just has lines not any stated distances.
I do prefer the 5/8. It gives grace to mistakes, and puckers, and uneven seams. Yes, I am old. But my machine tends to run off the edge, and if the thing you are working on - say, a collar, or cuff, or other close fitting seam - the two pieces may not fit well together, or may make your garment not fit comfortably. Just my opinion.
I first learned quilting so muscle memory makes me do a 1/4" seam even when I don't want to LOL. A tip for achieving a 1/4" without the special foot is to line up the edge of the fabric with the outer edge of the clear plastic in the standard presser foot
Thxs for sharing Alisa, I do gear off of my seams👀
My pleasure! I hope it helps, it truly makes my sewing cleaner and faster :)
What kind of sewing machine you are using? Thank you.
What size do you cut your s.a. When doing French seams?
I will sometimes use the different seam allowance to get a better fit. If I need just a bit more ease, I will cut the 5/8” SA but sew at 3/8”.
Ingenious! I'm going to try that. Thanks!
I prefer to use the edge of my pressure foot as guide. I just adjust my needle position.
I really appreciate your videos. What are some tips for narrowing the seam allowance when the patterns are made for 5/8"? The only ones I've thought of are to cut inside the edge of each pattern piece, but that line is very thin, or to remove some from each pattern piece, which will take some time.
If you use a Burda or other pattern with no seam allowance, how do you add your seam allowance?
May I know, do u add seam to neckline when tracing to fabric? Thk u.💖🙏
I use 5/8" when doing french seams otherwise 3/8" or 1/2"
Like you I adjust seam allowances depending on where they are in the garment. However for vertical seams I often use 5/8" or wider, as this gives me more choices on how to finish the seam and allows for future alterations. Also narrow seam allowances are great for thin fabrics, but bulk is more easily hidden by pressing seams open if the fabric is thicker. Seams are easier to press open if they are wider, even if you subsequently trim them down. If a garment may be worn for only one season then a serged seam finish is a great solution. If I want the garment to last several years, having a wider pressed open seam allowance gives more opportunities for refashioning in future. A pressed open seam can be easily ripped and re-sewn. If you have trimmed to a minimum allowance there is no wiggle room to make any fitting adjustments.
Of course, I adjust the seam based on what finish will I use, I think of that before I start sewing. Interesting that you say serger for "one season" is fine... Almost all of my wardrobe is handmade and I have been wearing handmade for 10 years, had serger for 5+ years and all garments finished with serger are great and in tact after 5 years of wear. About pressing open - it depends on what garment is sewn and what fabric is used.
I definitely prefer using 1/2 inch. I don't have a serger and zigzag all edges, so my brain just likes that width to work with.
I can see how a smaller seam allowance would make sense. Almost every pattern that I've used with a 5/8" seam allowance tells you to trim it down afterward. If you're gonna trim down a larger seam allowance anyway, why not just make the adjustment to a smaller one?
I follow the edge of my presser foot ✌
Maybe I overlooked it but how do you determine when to use the three different seam allowances?
at 10:38 in the video :)
@@ThoughtfulCreativity I’m very sorry…I asked the question before watching the entire video…going forward I will try not to make this mistake again…I enjoy your content and now know I’ll never be disappointed
@@lawrencejlittle no worries, it happens to everyone :) don't forget to take a look on the Google Drive - there are quite a few reference sheets for things like different hems and when to use them, seam finishes, ruffles and pleats - that might be helpful to have handy :)
How do you change a commercial pattern if you want to change seam allowances to 3/8". Would that be a lot of work?
You would need to determine that for yourself. 1) either trace the patterns on a new piece of paper and adjust SA or 2) cut away unnecessary SA from the original pattern.
How do you finish your seams for neatness on 1/4 inch seam allowance? I have a shirt pattern requiring 1/4 in seam allowances. How to prevent raveling?
Straight seam then serged seam, juts don't leave much spaces between serged seam and the straight stitch. I do that on sheer fabrics. If you don't have serger - use tight spaces zig zag stitch - it will give you something similar to a rolled hem (like the rolled hem on a serger).
I've always used 1/4" seams. It's the easiest bc of the presser foot and line on the plate.
I've legitimately never seen a seam allowance other than 1/4", like, ever
I've always ignored the 5/8 seam allowance and used 1/4 seam allowance .
Yes, but by doing that you alter the final dimension; in a simple 2 parts top means 1.5 inches across! That is immense in my book. I'm referring to commercial patterns of course, if you make your own is very valid.
I have the same machine as you and I also prefer to follow the edge of the presser foot. It is just so much easier.
Exactly :)
Even in mass production, better garments as a rule use bigger seam allowance, 3/4 for side seams and zipper, 1/2 for shoulders and set in sleeves, neck lines 1/4.
Budget and maternity cloth mostly uses 3/8 to accommodate sew-overlock.
Worked 50 years in fashion industry.
Yes, you can say I'm old fashioned.
I like 1/2 inch idk y but I like to used it
Im bad at sewing thoooo. 5/8" is already my limit lol i trim the edges after tho
Edit; wait i always used the edge of my presser foot thinking ots 5/8" "facepalm" is this why my bags turned out wrong and bigger? Lol
Why not make 5/8 inch foot seeing as it is mostly called for by pattern makers
I would think that having larger seam allowances makes you have to buy more fabric.
The extra few 16ths of an inch or millimetres on a seam allowance are actually negligible when considering yardage for a project. The size of the garment and width of the fabric are more relevant to yardage.
👍👍
Please add metric as well. Not everybody uses imperial.
That seam si 1 centimeter
5/8 is too much unless your doing French seams
The comment section of this video is very interesting today - lot of different opinions :)
!/4