What's your own observations? What other things should we add to the list? 🧵 Develop you your garment sewing skills with me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
I'm 64 and learned to sew from a woman with zero patience who rushed and short-cut through everything. And it showed. Then in Home Ec we learned to sew a simple skirt and I realized that you can't rush it. I also had to learn that there are some things you simply have to sew by hand.
Hi there, love your videos. I think a basic safety video would be quite appropriate. I'm not kidding. I had no idea so many things could happen, but yes, they can and do happen. My issue is accidentally sewing thru my left index finger, while guiding the fabric around a curve and more or less locking in my need to have husband CAREFULLY cut thru the needle while trying to not get blood in the bobbin directly underneath my dripping finger. (Thanks to husband, I now have a cool chrome jolly roger skull on my machine.)
I have touble slowing down because I feel the pedal is too sensitive. Press a little and the machine just hums but the needle barely moves, give it a little more and brrrt, oops, that was seven stiches, not one
I didn’t look through 300+ comments, but tools are important. You need a pair of fabric scissors that cut nothing else but fabric. They must be sharp, and kept sharp, and never used to cut paper. Also, take notes. If you are working on something and have to put it aside, you should write down where you stopped, your stitch length and tension, thread color, etc. as these things are easy to forget and hard to get exactly right again. Thank you for your videos!
Wishing I'd have seen this comment last week. I made the mistake of not annotating anything and my machine is digital, so after unplugging it, all my settings were reset to the default settings... 😔
I go one further than that - I have a pair of shears to cut synthetic fabrics, and my very best shears cut only natural fibers - wool, cotton, linen. And my family knows that touching my sewing shears is a capital offense! Just kidding ( but not much!)
I am 60 and growing up my mother loved to sew, tailored clothing. A saying she would use was "you sew with your iron". It never made sense to me as a kid, but as I started to sew I understood what she meant. Pressing is often an under-taught skill.
My mother would get mad at me because the ONLY time I would iron is when I am sewing. It doesn't matter if I am sewing clothing or a quilt, It needs to be pressed. After washing and drying clothes, if you put them away properly, they usually do not need to be pressed. But all seams do need to be pressed.
I'd say one of the things I see beginners not realising is the TYPE of fabric makes all the difference to the result. You have to pay attention to what fabric the patterm suggests!
How true! And specially when you want to combine two fabrics (color blocking or such), they have to be similar in weight and texture, not only in material. I just learned by sewing a cardigan, that not even 2 ponte di Roma materials worked well together, one being more heavy and stiff than the other 😰 😥 Now I must see, what I can do with it 🤕. A lesson for a whole sewer's life...
@@Evelyn__Wood Absolutely! I had a crash course in fabric choices and handling as an amateur costumer for an amateur theatre group, where attempting to create Broadway worthy effects on a pass-the-hat budget was the rule, and it was a *wild* ride! When you can create a Disney princess dress using a combination of glitter spandex, non-stretch crushed velvet, and poly organza, with edge trims in glitter machine embroidery thread sewn in a tight zigzag stitch, you have achieved sewing miracles. No, I would not volunteer to do that project again! XD
@@TrillianaEM If you don't want to seam rip and start over, I'd suggest stabilizing the softer hand material to reach the stiffness of the other. It's not ideal after you've already five your seaming, but it's doable.
I have been sewing for 60 yrs, having started off in a girls 4-H sewing club run by the local high school home economics teacher. She was patient and expected us to learn proper skills such as the techniques you describe. The first lessons were in hand sewing and one thing about sewing in the old school tradition is basting by hand for various parts of the garment prior to using the machine. For example, with the exception of invisible zippers, all zippers were first basted in before machine stitched. Hems were always hand stitched and thread tailor tacks were and still are used generously throughout. Of course we were taught to pull out pins before running over them on the machine, but I like all of us still tempted fate. Then one week before Christmas when I was sewing up fleece bathrobes for each of my four children I ran over a pin and it threw off the timing. I had to locate a machine technician and he was gracious enough to fix the machine overnight, probably encouraged to do so by my pitiful sobs! I have never run over a single pin since. Good hand sewing is a skill that is neglected and yet it is relaxing and prevents the frustration of spending time and money on constructing a garment but having a poor outcome. I think many new seamstresses would benefit by learning how to hand sew invisible hems, securely and attractively sew on buttons, and use basting to make fitting adjustments prior to bringing the garment to the machine. I am always left puzzling over videos I watch in which a person sews up a garment only to discover the completed garment doesn’t fit. It is no wonder that many new seamstresses give up altogether if that is the result.
I couldn't agree more, Learning to hand sew, and learning when it's wise to hand sew are really useful things. And remembering you have it as an option is very important, too. I was looking at a bulging lining recently and couldn't work out how to under stitch it effectively, and then I realised I could do it by hand, in odd places and in an unconventional way (some of it was almost like a face lift :-) ) and that part f the garment sits beautifully flat and is a treat to look at.
I never understood, why people dislike basting and handstitching. I find it very relaxing and it's so perfect for listening to audiobooks and podcasts. I'm often almost a littleunwillig, to switch to the machine in between, because it means interrupting my slow, peaceful persuit of the craft in favor of just running things through the sewing machine. Machine sewing is really just a means to an end for me, whereas I genuinely enjoy the handsewing parts of garment construction.
I quite agree. My first experience of sewing was in 3rd class when we made pinwheels and needlebooks, beautifully embellished with whipped running stitch, daisies and other VERY basic embroidery techniques. Our first garment was a skirt (in 5th class) which was basically two rectangles which we hand stitched together and elasticated the waist and hand stitched the hem. As a wearable garment it left a lot to be desired but it gave us the basics to build on. We had to tack (aka baste) everything and so sewing over pins was never a thing. I still prefer to tack if I'm using a tricky fabric. It doesn't take long and is worth it in the long run.
I have a pattern previously owned by my mother. The instructions included the importance of dressing for visitors, in case a neighbour popped in for unexpected visit. Justifying the need to always be presentable and well groomed. The instructions included ensuring all the housework was completed, so you didn't become distracted from your sewing.
No pressure there, huh? Today with people working outside the home, sewing time would probably never happen if one had to be dressed and the home fastidious prepared for potential visitors first. Oh my!
My grandmother was a seamstress and my grandfather was a tailor, and they taught every single one of us how to hand sew and do basic embroidery sewing buttons ,etc. Incredibly useful and now im sewing fully lined, finished, hand hemmed garments and she is so proud!
How interesting! My grandmother was also a seamstress and my dad had been trained as a tailor. Although both had passed on when I started sewing, I'm certain that my intense desire to constantly be sewing and learning more to take my sewing skills to the next level, is coming from them. It's in the genes!
Same here! My grandma was a seamstress (til she retired) and my grandpa was a tailor. I was taught hand-sewing at age 5 and they gifted me my first machine when I was just 7 years old. The smell of hot irons makes me nostalgic for my grandma’s shop. One of my favorite smells in the world.
"You are in control, you tell the fabric what to do!" That's why my viscose tencel twill work in progress is in the corner of shame thinking about what it's done! I am in control, fabric, and you will stay in the corner of shame until you learn this lesson!
Knowing when to stop for the day is definitely a skill developed over time. As I get tired, I am less fussed with the finish I am getting, so as soon as I find myself thinking "it will do" when I see a wrinkle or pucker, I know it's time to stop. Back in the dim dark past, my mother-in-law destroyed the timing on my 1935, Singer 201K... it still makes me sad. She was one to sew over pins for speed and thought it didn't matter because the machine was old. She didn't know how I came by that 'old machine', or that I valued it very highly. Me, well I have accidently sewn over the odd pin and broken the odd needle over the years, but these days pins rarely even get near the machine. I hate pricking my fingers on pins, so I baste seams and remove the pins before they get anywhere near the machine.
I,too,value and use vintage Singer machines. Your '35 model may be restorable. I'd have a recommendation for repair person if you lived near Stillwater Oklahoma! Seriously the older machines are less complex. Find fix-it shop that specializes in old Singers.
I feel the same way about knowing when to stop for the day. I like to spread the project out over multiple days. It gives me something to look forward to every day. When I wake up each morning I get excited because "I have to put in an invisible zipper today" or "I have to under stitch a collar or insert buttonholes".
Knowing when to quit is SO true. My worst mistakes are generally made when I'm tired, hungry and beginning to get frustrated with a project. Calling it quits for the day, getting a nights sleep can make all the difference between a nicely finished project or hours with a seam ripper!
Yes! Do not sew when you are tired! And do not hurry either. If all you damage is the piece, that's bad enough, but it is also dangerous. Case in point: after 28 years of sewing, I sewed through a fingertip. Tired and in a hurry to get it done so I could go to sleep I got careless. Not worth it and I tell all my students the story and that I was lucky I did not sew through a bone.
Until lockdown started last year, I was the head of the pant line for a Savile Row tailor. When I started there, having never worked anywhere doing "commercial" sewing before, I had to learn to sew pin free. We are not allowed to use pins for things that are going through the machine (it's fine on some of the bits we hand sew) because our machines are expensive, and we are usually working with fabric that costs between £300 and £4000 per metre. A pin getting stuck or broken in the machine can put that machine out of action for a day or more, or worse, rip a hole in your fabric. On the pant line, we do very little basting (mainly on hems, and fly bits for pants going out for fitting), the rest is done by touch, eye and manually tensioning the fabric as you stitch. My sewing friends can't get their heads around how little I use my pins! I don't even use them when stitching a four way seam, it's all done by eye.
I don't use pins either, I am also a tailor. Pins hamper accuracy, and just get in the way. Not to mention the wasted time. I do put a pin at the sleeve head and notches when I have to ease them in, so I can make sure my pitch is right.
Same. I very rarely use pins. But I do know which fabrics I can get away with full speed and which I have to slow down a bit for. I’ve tried to explain it to friends but it always ends with “you just kinda figure out which textures are jerks but screwing up a lot”
My mom would sit and sew for hours, huge wall to wall draperies for meeting rooms! I have just started sewing again, after 40 years, and call upon my mom's wisdom and guidance to help me when I am doing something really stupid!
Things I've learned thanks to sewing and thanks to working in a fabric shop: (hopefully these will be useful to someone out there!) - the type of fabric makes a huge difference in how a garment will look and behave - if you've not worked with a particular type of fabric before, find some remnants or scraps to practice some basic stitching and shaping with - it's always a good idea to test-stitch on a scrap of fabric when you've reloaded a bobbin on your machine, to verify that the tension hasn't somehow been altered (I have a touchy machine myself, but it's been a helpful things when I've learned on a machine that's new to me) - not all cottons are made equal; you can have two quilting cottons but the colours will vary from dye lot to dye lot, the fiber construction can vary, and the feel of them will most certainly vary; this applies to other fabrics as well! - muslin is our friend and it is extremely versatile - hand-finishing different parts of a garment, like collars or sleeve openings, is entirely okay - never be afraid to hand-stitch in a zipper - pay attention to the kind of interfacing recommended on patterns, because you don't want to use craft-weight interfacing when the pattern calls for feather-weight - try out new stitching methods using scraps so you don't run as much risk of ruining your pretty fabric - be mindful of how you pre-wash your fabric! and never be afraid to wash the fabric before you sew with it, because heaven knows you don't want to make a great looking garment that you can't wear after the first washing (quilters sometimes don't wash their cotton and that's their choice and that's okay; I am speaking specifically about garments) - never be afraid to ask questions and verify things as you go along - you don't have to be super fast when making anything - if your hands are hurting, stop working and take a break or set it down for the day
I would add pressing skills to this list; as a default, press all seams as sewn, open from the wrong side, then from the right side (with sleeve board, ham etc. if necessary to follow the shape of the garment).
I would go one step further (or backwards). Press the seam flat before you press it open. It helps to set the stitches and results in a nicer press. This is obviously trickier on something like a princess seam, but that's a toughie anyway. And one last thing: not all seams are meant to be pressed open. Know when to press open and when to press to one side. Happy sewing!
@@EsmereldaPea If rearraging the way the seam lies is needed (as for a felled seam), I tend to do it after the initial pressing, as I find it gives the tidiest finish on the outside.
Pressing is the only time I enjoy ironing something. It makes whatever you're making so much better, especially after pre-washing your fabric and then cutting the pattern out on freshly washed and ironed fabric *bliss*
My mom was a seamstress when she was young. When she looked at something handmade, she always looked at it from the inside first. She said how the inside looks is a better indication of the care and skill of the sewist.
Pre-washing fabric before making garments is something I do more now that I have more experience with sewing clothing. I did not need to do that previously with making quilts and bags.
This is something I skipped all the time as a novice seamstress, but now I never skip it - unless it's for a crafty type of item that will never be washed (like a Christmas stocking, that kind of thing).
@@shariwelch8760 I do even then because it sews up nicer and can cause skipped stitches. I also don't want to work with all the finishing chemicals. But it's probably not that big of a deal, really. It's just a habit, but that's why I do it even then. It's been drilled into me.
When I started sewing, I religiously followed the pattern instructions, even when they did not make sense. Now, I use the pattern instructions as a guide, but modify (or ignore them), to suit my style of sewing. Eg most patterns have installing the zip as the last step when the dress is fully sewn. I prefer to install the zip before I sew the dress up, so that I am sewing "on the flat" as I find that easier, and get a better finish.
@@amythomas762, you’re very welcome. Now it won’t be possible to sew in the flat if you are replacing a zip as it is too much work and not always possible or practical to unsew the necessary seams to make it flat. However, the initial construction it is ideal.
I see a lot of dresses these days with the zipper in full view - as a "design element" - and am convinced it's only because someone somewhere decided that sewing a nice/proper zipper was too much work. I hate the look, and it's never flattering to boot!
So glad my mother and 4H leaders were by my side when I started sewing at 11. . . 61 years ago. I learned from “ seasoned” sewists. I think the most important lesson I’ve learned is that no matter how good you are, “mistakes happen” and you never quit improving. Picking the right marriage of pattern and fabric for one’s own body is the most important first step.
Barbara I couldn't agree more! Mistakes always happen, it's part of the process and I don't think that we ever stop learning and get better at our sewing! ❤
My wife has been watching you for a some time. She has been sewing for years. Me as a guy and a true beginner I have learned a lot from you. I have tried a few simple things. So thanks for all of helpful tips.
We can learn something every day! I have been teaching my now 13 year old son how to sew, starting with the cuts he made into brand new clothes. When asked what on earth happened to a t-shirt, cotton pants and an oven mit... He said he was drying off the knife. That is, the 10" brand new Chef knife! ,🤦🏽♀️ I told him whelp, you're old enough to learn how to fix what you break. Turns out he's picking it up nicely 🤗.
Interesting list. I would add changing needles with different projects, adjusting tension, cleaning lint out of the bobbin area frequently, and backstitching.
I agree, except I never change needles unless I have to. If it's not the right one for the project, sure. But I mean I don't their them away until they seem they're no longer good.
@@beebuzz959. I find that changing needles creates a smoother seam. I always change needles to match my fabrics weight, using ball point needles makes smoother seams.
Basting, taking time to hand finish things, and ironing what seems like 10x more than necessary to a beginner. Iron before and after every seam at least.
I grew up with my grandmother using a singer treadle sewing machine, she was a designer level sewer! Later her daughter was an extraordinary dressmaker, she could look at a design and replicate it for her clients! While I have sewn for fifty years and enjoy it, never as a rule follower! Patterns are to me just a suggestion! My daughter was dressed in dresses from one pattern but looked totally different! Used the dress pattern to make a matching coat! I love making costumes, recently my great granddaughter wanted a really modern character (ready made over fifty dollars) so when she said: I really look like her! It made the struggle of making the pattern, figuring out how to form the structural pieces, and redoing pieces worth it all! Your video pointed out what to keep in mind while learning and good reminders for creative sewers! Blessed and safe days!
Great list, my add (more for myself) is to Slow Down! Just because my machine can go like a rocket doesn't mean i have to. My sewing improved dramatically when i learned to slow it down
One of the differences I have noticed is that experienced sewers don't tend to use the suggested pattern layouts provided and will, whilst maintaining grain lines, place the pattern pieces, often one at a time - then cut - to use the least amount of fabric. I have to say that I find it one of the more satisfying aspects of sewing - apart from have a lovely new and well-fitting garment to wear. I have been sewing for 40 years and know that many of the tips and methods that I use were handed down the generations from my great grandmother who was a tailor in the 1920s.
I rarely follow the pattern layouts. They seem to have too much wasted pieces. I do have a tip that goes with this, If you are going to be doing fussy cutting fabric, buy extra. Like if you want a focal part of your fabric centered in the top of your dress. If you want your strips to match up. Keep fabric going in the same direction. I will make lines on the patterns where I want the repeats to line up.
My grandmother supported the family as a dressmaker and tailor after my grandfather died young. While I remember her sewing, she didn't teach me much. I'm sure I could have learned a LOT from her. I learned everything from my mother, who sewed much of our clothing, but she didn't have the professional experience my grandmother did. Hmmm. I just realized that I am a third generation wedding dress designer!
At one point the captions tell us we might break our needle if we sew over "Europeans" and I must say that yes, I imagine if you tried sewing over a European it might get a bit bumpy. Make that's one instance where you really do need a walking foot. :D
As I've become an experienced sewer, I've started "batch assembling" my garments more. In that, if different parts of the garment all need to be pinned and sewn, I pin as many seams as I can at once, then sew as many as I can at once, then iron, and so on... It's saved me a lot of time and reduces the number of trips i make to the ironing board.
I'm a winging it kind of sewist. LOL. I just cut and go. I technically have a muslin when I duplicate my favorite top, though. I'm moving into womens clothing (kids are grown now) so I'll have to slow down and make a muslin. Making adjustments is hard but tailors cut corners. My mother of the bride dress they just took up the shoulders and didn't fix the darts. If I had known how I could have done the alterations myself. They had to shorten the zipper too. I'm shorter than average from shoulder to waist.
I am not disciplined about doing a mockup. I did draft a perfect fitting sloper and use the cardboard versions of the patterns to make adjustments. What I really need to remember to do is take notes for the next time. 😉
@@beepbopboop3221 me too! I always just see how the pattern fits and adjust from there. Besides, often enough I'm able to get material for cheap enough it's like a muslin, so I might as well just make it and wear that instead. But I'm lucky, there are some great fabric stores around me, plus I've found some great stuff at thrift stores.
I recently watched a video that discussed the benefits making a muslin/toile for complicated garments before doing the final version and it made me curious about what sewers do with all the test versions after the finished garments have been made?
My biggest lesson was to slow down take my time and think out each step. It was hard to start with as I was excited to get my finished garment but as I slowed down my sewing got better and better.
Yes, Rose, mental sewing is a big part of the process! Often during the twilight before sleeping, the next step comes to mind, construction confusion clears or needed notions/equipment lists are formulated.
I agree. I would rather have a well-sewn garment. When friends have told me it takes too much time to sew, I estimate the time it takes to travel to a store, find that fit and style you love, try it on, and then pay for what might be a poorly constructed garment (have you noticed the length of RTW stiches?) out of semi-decent fabric.
I have been doing those for years. I have had a needle in my hands as far back as I can remember. I am now 64 years old. My mom let me start on the sewing machine at 12 years old. I just finish the sixth grade. That summer I totally took over her sewing machine. I made all my mom waitress uniforms, my sister and I dress for school. In the eighth grade I made my brother a dress shirt and sport coat. By the 11 grade I made my brother a complete suit, (shirt, tie, vest, jacket and pants). Never felt comfortable in drawing out patterns though. Boy my mom sure could. I do adapt patterns though. Take one piece and use it in another though.
Hand basting (tacking) is an essential skill that I would add to the list. Yes, it’s an extra step and it’s time consuming both to install and remove afterwards, but it gives a much more accurate result.
I actually hand-basted the entirety of my first self-made garment. I cut an old bedsheet into clothes. Unfortunately, said bedsheet was satin. I simply could not pin it and gave up. I still find basting threads in it sometimes that I missed when picking them out.
I am on my 15th sewing machine (12 were Singers), my grandmother made shirts for Selfridges in the 1920s and taught me; my tips are tailor's chalk and long and short tacking (on top of proper pressing skills mentioned below). I have made 24 quilts since 1st Dec 2020 and my walking foot is a blessing ! I also had a boutique in the 1970s where I made some of the clothes.
This makes me even so more grateful for my Grandma patiently teaching me to sew before ever giving me a pattern to work on. So much of this assume knowing what to do and when, is invaluable! And now, because of your wonderful videos, I am in the middle of a "garment renovation", something totally new to me, but those skills i had and your tips, have made this a fun experience! And last week at JoAnn's, I was buying trim for my garment renovation, and next to the cutting table as I waited my turn, I spied a display of discounted patterns FOR ONE CENT EACH!!! And what was even more magical was I found found basis types of clothing IN MY SIZE RANGE, so I could begin making my clothes again. And I already had at home 3 sets of sheets for toiles...so very perfect!!! Can't wait to see how I progress and learn in the coming months, lol!
I want to go to your JoAnn's. My mother did not have the patience to teach me to sew. I taught myself on great grandma's treadle machine when I was a little girl. I took home economics as a teenager and learned to sew.
Lol... I just finished watching a pattern making video and was cringing the whole time cuz she was sewing over all her pins! 😳 Things that I would add are: Fabric prep. Wash, press, and level off (I can't remember the technical term) your fabric before using it. This is so important! I personally wash my fabrics a few times. This really helps with understanding how the fabric behaves. Pressing!!! Get or make your own tailor's ham! Get a few different shapes depending on your needs, but if you're sewing for your family you will definitely need different sizes. It's not the machine, it's you! This is in line with what you were saying about the sewing machine is not going to sew for you. Personally, I forced myself to get good at hand sewing and hand embroidery. I just did the same stitches and techniques over and over again. The dexterity that you have with your hands carries over to how well you manipulate the fabric thru the machine. Thanks for the great video! God Bless 😊
One of the skills I rarely see sewers use on TH-cam videos is basting. My mother was an apprentice dressmaker in the sixtires before she got married, and the sewing lines and other markings on the pattern were always marked by basting stitches to ensure accuracy. It seems to be a lost art.
Sorry to reply so late (and so randomly) but I absolutely love basting! I just finished my first ever dress entirely by hand and there were so many times that I basted instead of pinning. It's so quick and easy to do and compared to how many times I pricked myself on pins previously, I don't think I'll ever go back!
Oh my goodness, thank you for saying that a pattern is just a tool! As I've tried to learn to sew over the years, I have been so confused by people whose advice is to "follow the pattern". Sure, it explains the pieces, but how does one skillfully put them all together?! As a fiber person, I'll point out this is how knitting works too! Knitting patterns don't teach you how to knit - they assume you know the stitches and need guidance on making a particular style.
Hey wow, my Gran taught me both manoeuvring and sewing in a curve from the very beginning. And the stitch line (including the pinning!). Plus she drilled into me the reason for pulling pins as we go. And pattern tweaking. Clearly I owe her a debt 😂
I always checked the finished size of the garment on the pattern as the finished ease is very important and my body does not fit the normal and so I always have to blend sizes and do bust adjustments on everything :( It only took 5-6 garments to point out the fact that I cannot just follow a pattern lol. It was an eye-opening lesson that forced me to take my sewing skills up a few notches but the learning has been fun and my clothes fit soooo much better. Thank you for the vid on stay stitching, it cured so many problems :)
I have had similar issues. I take detailed measurements and use drafted cardboard sloper patterns now. I am long waisted and fairly square shouldered so adjusting a pattern to allow for that makes a huge difference in how the finished garment looks.
I love your translator. "Better sewists" became "better solaced" in the text. )) That is so true even though the translator missed the original intent. As we improve our skills, we are happier with the result. The iron IS equal tool to the sewing machine. Printed patterns are mere suggestions. I was 6 feet tall as a 12 yr old girl. Sewing allowed me to wear girl's clothes instead of women's clothes. At 76, I still add 5 inches to sleeves... because I CAN. )))) Thank you for sharing your knowledge so others will know its ok too.
I’ve been sewing for a year now and since I’m young I’ve pretty much grown into having the wonderful tailors on TH-cam (like you) teach me a lot of things. I’ve sewed 9 garments and various other accessories, but never ONCE have I bought and used a pre-made pattern. At first it was because I wanted the cost of making a garment stay relatively low, but then I realized that it’s kind of unnecessary since I would be altering the pattern to fit my needs anyways. I’ve learned to make my own patterns and it’s a really useful skill to have, honestly. I would encourage anyone to take up pattern-making as a side hobby.
I have been sewing for 54 years. Prior to laying out/cutting a pattern, I always wash my water washable fabrics. I then iron the fabric, matching the selvages. In woven fabric, I also pull a thread in the crosswise grain, and cut perfectly straight ends to the fabric. Pre-shrinking the washable fabric helps the final garment retain an excellent fit and shape.
I have learnt that it’s not just the basic measurements you need ie bust ,waist hip , but shoulders to bust neck to shoulder etc if you need a perfect fit and don’t go by pattern size ie 12 , 14 16, etc. measuring is so important . I made so many Ill fitting dresses in the beginning as I just used the paper pattern straight out o& the packet for the size I thought it was .
I am so blessed because I watched my mom sew for years so when I took home ec it was a breeze (Catholic all girls’ school). But I thought it was more “hip” to buy clothes (although my mom made my junior and senior prom dresses to my specific liking). Now that I have returned to sewing (it was a whimsical decision and now I’m HOOKED), I jumped back in with both feet. I haven’t made those mistakes you mentioned, but I underestimated measuring and scaling the patterns to my size (and realizing patterns are not the sizes of store bought clothing). I so wish I kept all of those dress patterns my mom had!!!
I always stress to my students the importance of clipping and pressing seams as you sew them. Also never never hold pins in your mouth! You can definitely inhale a pin requiring surgery!
I have a friend whose cat swallowed a pin and very sadly died - she couldn't get him to the vet quickly enough. Swallowing a pin is very dangerous for us, and for our pets. Keep your sewing room door closed, and be very mindful of your pins and needles, for both the humans and the animals that you love.💗
I teach high school Textiles. When I get a new class I tell them that for health and safety reasons if I see any child with a pin in their mouth I cannot use them anymore for hygiene reasons and they will have to pay for a new set. Happened once and word got around. 6 years later and no one else has dared.
Never in 40 years as surgeon seen an inhaled pin!your larynx is too clever. Not even swallowed pin, it might be unhygienic though thinking about how many of my pins end up on the floor!
Wow, I wouldn’t say I’m an experienced sewer. I’ve been sewing since I was nine years old. I took one home at class. However, a lot of the things you’re saying and demonstrating are so true. Intuitively I have always gone by the curve and not fought the fabric. I’ve also always pinned going along the same line because I don’t it just saves the pens I think. And it makes it easier for me to follow that same line. And that was something that has always been intuitive of my thinking. Also never so over PINS ever ever ever ever ever.
Not sure if it has been mentioned but preparing your fabric is something new sewers tend to not do. There are few fabrics and textures that do not require preparation. Many call it pre-washing, I call it “pre-shrinking”. LOL! I lost so many first time pieces to not pre-washing my fabrics in the beginning. Many say this step is not necessary. Most fabric is shipped on bolts from wherever it comes from. I have also seen all types of “hitchhikers” in some fabrics. So you pre-wash to handle that, odors picked up during shipping, and shrinking. It is a pain but it also helps you see if the weave is straight for grain-lines or if there is some kind of fabric weakness that needs to be cut around. I see this a lot in international linens so finding a really good quality fabric supplier will help you.🌻
I have a walking foot and it is a game changer for certain fabrics and applications. Sewing stretchy knits with a walking foot is a pleasure. Trying to do it without is a disaster. Using a walking foot for quilting and binding quilts is also much easier. The different feet exist for a reason. Use them for the application they are meant for and they are wonderful. Trying to use them for everything is where you run into trouble. It's like using only a zipper foot for sewing. Use the right tool for the right job and everything works so much better.
Thanks for your many wonderful videos! I would add to this one, what I tell my own sewing students at a local college crafts center: Each step in garment sewing that you do carefully and accurately rewards you by making each subsequent step quicker. Students often are in a hurry to cut out a garment, but sloppy edges make it hard to tell where the seam line is.
I've been sewing for a number of years but I'm always learning something new. One thing I'd like to add that experienced sewers do that many beginners do not - pressing after each sewing line. While pressing isn't "sewing" it can help your sewing go from looking so-so to amazing. Thank you so much Evelyn! Love your channel and how much you love sewing and sharing your sewing knowledge. Really enjoy watching your videos.
Thanks for confirming that I'm not a beginner! I never thought about it. I'm not sure when I crossed over from beginner to intermediate. Although I'm a weird beginner. My first project as an adult was a child's swimsuit. My daughter had ripped the bottom up and needed a new one in the middle of winter. At the time it had been a decade since I learned the basics in 7th grade. It was great to learn how to sew stretch fabric with stretch stitch (don't forget your ball point machine needles). This project is also great for learning to control the fabric because you have to pull the fabric stretched out as it goes under the foot. It's much easier. I learned how to improvise on the 2nd swimsuit. The first machine died and the next one did not have a stretch stitch. Just use a "wobble stitch". This is a really narrow zig zag. It worked just fine. This was about 15 yrs ago. No chance of looking it up on TH-cam. Sometimes I could find a sewing blog. Beginner's should try something new or something that seems harder. It might be easier than you think. It's ok if you make a mistake. That's how you learn. Just buy extra fabric to account for that.
Oh I absolutely love your last bit of advice! I've been sewing on and off since I was about maybe 9 but never made a full garment of my own until very recently, and I definitely learned a ton from going into a big project that way
Really helpful tips! I'm sewing again after many years away, and my biggest issue had always been going too fast or taking shortcuts. I used to skip stay-stitching and proper seam finishing out of impatience, but now understand how important they are to the integrity of the garment. Simple things like how often you change your needle, using the right needle for your fabric, retreating your machine, watching tension - all make a huge difference.
I am so appreciative of these videos. They are so helpful as a person who is just starting to learn to sew garments and can't consult her very experienced mother, and very, VERY experienced grandmother due to lockdown. Thank you!
@@carbine090909 there are some pattern companies that include seam allowance or have both options... Sew over it, sew different and Compagnie M come to mind.... But the German ones and Czech ones don't have them and the sewing magazine Ottobre doesn't either 😁
Thats interesting because I watch the german youtube channel PattyDoo and she includes a seam allowance in her patterns (literally i know zero german except the sewing terms. Nahtzugabe!)
My mum and grand mother taught me the first three things when I was a kid. When I was around ten years old it had become a natural part of sewing that I did without thinking.
Some patterns are actually good to learn with though. My professional seamstress/tailor Mom helped my sister and I pick out patterns "for beginners" when we were teenagers so we wouldn't get frustrated trying to comprehend complex instructions. We tended to pick up Very Easy Vogue patterns a lot because we liked the sound of that, but Mom would get us to look more closely at the pattern first -- as you do too.
I'm not afraid to pull things out and re-do them, re-cut them, add a dart or tuck, chop excess fabric away or add an extra band if something isn't long enough. I just keep tweaking until I am happy with imy garment.
Like lots of others I didn't know anyone who sewed. Somehow I avoided accidents and made few mistakes. At school hand sewing a simple top I didn't like or ever want to wear, was so boring ! We did not learn much there I may say. Its true you pick up as you go along. But I do love to hear about the why's and wherefore's as you might call them. Very helpful to everyone.So thankyou, love your videos !
Kinda off topic, but I have used my scraps to sew into rag quilts for my neighbor to give away when she is in the city. Anything small can be saved in a pillowcase, sewn closed and donated to animal shelters to use for beds. Happy sewing!
I would add three things that I have discovered in my recent sewing restart: 1) not every part of every garment can/should be sewn by machine 2) if you haven't made that pattern already and know it fits well, make a mockup of at least the big shapes (bodice and sleeves) 3) prewash your fabric - and for a long length, give it a twist and sew the ends to each other to make a mobius strip, then it doesn't tangle into a ball in the dryer (I'd say 4, pressing, but I've been mainly working with flannel that doesn't press worth a darn (I tried!) and linen, which pretty much finger-presses if you pinch it, and I've also been hand-sewing so I can manually hold the seam apart while I'm felling it so I don't get bunchy lumps. I suppose if I were using my machine I might trek upstairs for the iron, but doing it every time I finish a seam is not something I'm feeling I need to do yet, but I usually do iron everything once it's done.
@@davina845 It really depends on what I'm making and where the fit issues are likely to be. Sometimes I will do a full mockup of the bodice part completely made of reclaimed scrap fabric (like old bedsheets or leftover polycotton from another project, cotton from some car seat covers I made and then took apart, etc) that goes down at least to the hips so I know if the side seams will be vertical or if I need more room in the front or the back, and half the time I'll only mock up one side of a thing (especially when I'm doing sleeves), to make sure it's got the armpit in the right place or see how a sleeve pattern is going to look or if there's enough room for boobs, or that the seams that connect the two sides are where they need to be (ie that I'm not way too big for the pattern, as some patterns have interesting concepts of hip to waist ratios that don't fit my rather columnar figure)... and sometimes I'll have the bodice part done out of my actual finish fabric but I'll grab some scrap fabric to baste in and figure out what I'm actually doing with the sleeves, be cause sleeves are evil... (I've actually got one mockup sleeve of plaid upholstery fabric that's been sewn onto at least two different bodices now as I refine my medieval patterns). Sometimes if you do a full mockup of a very complicated pattern, you can use it as a lining or interlining, like the canvas I'm using for my current corset mockup, those pieces I've sewn together will probably end up being the actual base structural fabric that I will cover with something pretty and line with something comfortable. I also have a handful of reclaimed zippers I use for mockups when the garment will need buttons or lacing but that's really impractical for fittings. and pinning myself into a mockup is asking to get poked repeatedly :)
Thank you for the tip on washing fabric, I always end up with a tangled mess!!🙂 I too use old sheets to make muslins (mick ups). Thrift stores always have them.
I regularly buy fabric as and when I see it, sometimes not even with a project in mind but one thing I religiously do is prewash washable fabrics. They then progress to my ironing pile and get pressed with all my general ‘ironing’. I then attach a safety pin onto the selvedge to indicate it’s been prepped before storing it away. The pleasure I get from being able to get straight into a project without having to go through the discipline of washing, drying and pressing the fabric before I start is immense! A tad childish I know, but if like me, patience is not your virtue, then this is a tip for you! 😁
Safety pin in the selvedge is a GREAT idea! I'm going to use this! I commit the "sin" of washing even linen before I make anything. I hate dry-cleaning anything and unless it's a structured suit that would far better with dry cleaning, I'd rather wash it myself. One of the times I realized the wisdom of pre-washing is in making masks over the last year. For a couple, I was impatient and didn't prewash the fabric, but then found they shrunk way too much, so now every fabric I buy is prewashed in hot water and dried on hot - and then ironed while damp.
My mother recently started sewing again after around 25 years.. I’m helping her understand stuff and I told her TH-cam can help explain stuff if I confuse her as well
I recommend reading through the sewing directions in their entirety prior to doing anything else. This brings clarity to the general sewing process while also allowing one to use creativity to possibly change a pattern construction or design plan, Happy sewing!
Being a garment sewist I never used a walking foot, but I learned how essential it is to quilting...which led to me including it in my garment sewing...it really helps with knits.
Great tips! The ones that I've learned the hard way are these: Keep your machine clean, lint can build up and really impact how your machine sews; use the correct needle for the fabric and change your needle often; when learning a new skill or working on a new type of fabric, practice, practice, practice on scraps to get confident; don't shortcut on basting or or other prep, they don't save time and won't give you professional results. For me a pattern is just the place to start. When you gain experience, and confidence, you can make changes and customize to make your project uniquely yours. The multi-size patterns are fantastic and I never use the original tissue, I make my own pattern on tracing paper. I've changed sleeves (made them longer, shorter, puffier, less puffy) as well as make a skirt longer or shorter. I've used a knee length dress a floor length.
Pertaining to " patterns as a tool", I am forever pulling out patterns and saying, I can take this pattern and add this, or take away that, or change it some other way to make what I really want. I love the creation that the patterns evoke in me.
Hand baste (instead of leaving your pins in and sewing over those pins) before you actually start sewing....is "next level" (in my personal opinion) especially with difficult, cumbersome, thicker, or several layers of fabrics, being sewn together✌🏻
I loved your video and the wonderful information in it. Great to hear an Australian voice to. I’ve been watching quite a few of the American sewing community videos.
I love this! Great video! I have wanted to learn how to sew for 10 years or so. My mother sewed and sewed beautifully. She passed away 15 years ago and I am so upset with myself that I never took the time to learn from her.
One way to avoid using pins at critical points (where multiple seams meet, at notches, etc.) is to BASTE those points together BY HAND. My grandmother taught me to do this in the seam allowance area (leaving the actual stitch line untouched). She did use pins for the rest of the seam, taking them out as she went without sewing over them, but she never had to worry about whether or not her seams or notches lined up because she always basted them before sewing the seam. I use contrasting thread in areas I know I'll be removing the basted stitches, such as where there is a need to iron seam allowances open for finishing. This makes it easy to find when I'm ready to remove them. Today we might think this is too time consuming, but my grandmother had done it that way for decades and was really quite quick. I'm a bit slower than she was, but I enjoy the technique nonetheless. It helps me feel confident about how well I've lined things up.
As someone who is still very much a beginner, and has learned everything I do know about sewing from TH-cam tutorials I can’t believe I never thought of this. My last issue with basting was that I did it over the stitch line and couldn’t then (easily) get the baste stitches out later. Thank you for this.
Coming back to sewing simple garments after years and doing more quilt-piecing recently, I'd say cutting well and ironing seams, taking the time to do things carefully and to pay attention to the details are pretty important.
When I would assist in the theatre costume shop I would tell students, the sewing machine is like a car. You can't drive it any faster than you can control it!
I agree with Farmwife, I have only been sewing for 56 years, but the items she mentioned are key. I learned to sew garments from my mother who sewed a lot for myself and my 11 siblings. I took garment construction (including fit and color) classes for 4 years in high school and 95% of what I wore in high school was me made. Sadly this skill is no longer offered at lot of schools and there was no garment construction offered for my kids in the 90-00's. I too learned to pin perpendicular to the seam line and to pull the pins out. When I started watching sewing TH-cam videos it drove me nuts when sewists pinned "the wrong way", however I now pin parallel at times. I only remember hitting a pin a couple of times in all these years. With the modern machines I am very careful with pins.
Basting! My teacher taught me to baste, then I got lazy and annoyed at it, and now I am basting again, though less than before and a couple of millimetres above the stitch line... it saves me from worrying about pins and moving fabric.
I really enjoyed this video! For me personally, there were two points that I didn't quite agree with, but they are based on my personal experiences, and I say what works for you is what you should do! First one -- walking foot; I don't use one when I'm crafting garments, but I DO use one when I'm quilting - I reason that it is because generally, when quilting, I'm sewing through thicker layers of fabric, and the walking foot really helps. And my second one, and I KNOW I'm in the minority on this one, is sewing over pins; I learned how to sew when I was 9 years old --- taught by my Grandmother. Today, I am a professional Costumer -- 40 years later, I still sew over needles, and I intend to keep doing so... yes, occasionally my needle hits a pin, but I've never had a needle shatter, break, fly into my face, etc. The needle hits, the pin bends, and life goes on. I am still using the same machine that I learned on; I have maintenance done on it after each show I costume, and 40 years later, my machine is working FLAWLESSLY... so FOR ME, sewing over pins hasn't been an issue, and has actually been a beneficial process... To each his [or her] own! But this video overall was ASBSOLUTELY WONDERFUL, and I am a proud, new Subscriber!!
I will also probably always sew over pins, but much less so now than I used to. And I HAVE had needles break and fly around dangerously. So I'm more careful. But thankfully it's never damaged the machine itself.
I stopped sewing over pins when I hit one and the needle tip shot of straight at my eye. It hit dead center in the .net of my glasses lens. Thank you for this video. I'm teaching my kids to sew and sometimes it's difficult to remember what I didn't know as a beginner.
Lovely to meet you! Mother and grandmother sewed. I was warned to stay away from the sewing machine. A treadle machine. I loved pressing the foot peddle. I learnt sewing in school and in home science class . We had to make garments. It was a nightmare! But it was mum's delight. She trained me to use her treadle Singer machine. After school, I went for tailoring classes. Your videos bring back beautiful memories. At the moment sewing skirts for a pair of twin girls. I hope to learn and Contribute to this lovely channel. Love all the tips being shared here from experienced sewers.
Slow down over thick seams. When I was a young teen, I was making my own jeans, and I was having a hard time topstitching over the intersecting seams at the crotch. I did what seems to come naturally to me and tried to bull it through. I ended up sewing my finger. I cut myself loose, pulled the threads through my finger, cleaned and bandaged it, the laid down for 15 min. Got up and finished the jeans. At least I didn't bleed on the fabric. A good thing to use for a pusher is a porcupine quill. If you happen to sew over it, it won't wreck anything. And don't sew over pins. Broke a needle that way, and the point went right for my eye. It was the only time I thanked the good Lord for bad eyes and thick glasses. .
Thank you for this! I'm still in my first year of sewing and started out by doing all of these things instinctively, but eventually started do "unlearn" them by watching videos of other not so experienced sewists on yt. I actually kept doing them anyway, but watching those led me to think I only did it because I wasn't skillfull enough and they were just roundabout ways to get to the same result, but today I learned that my instincts were right all along!
As I become more experienced in sewing I realize the importance of taking your time when you start a line of stitching to ensure that any backstitching is minimal and neat! It gives garments a more professional look. Also, fitting and trying on as you go to ensure you don’t have to rip out multiple steps to adjust the fit!
My grandmother always pinned along the stitch line the way that you do. I'd never seen it done any other way until watching someone else's video the other day where she was pinning inwards instead and I decided to try it. It seems that pinning it inwards is way way better for me. It made a huge difference. Pinning it the way you do it (and my grandmother's way) I kept getting frustrated and stabbed making me wonder if I was using too many pins. Doing it the other way makes it a lot easier for me to remove the pins. I still pin it your way for pattern cutting because it makes it easier to cut the shapes correctly, but at the machine, I seem to like the me other way more. I guess it does come down to different preferences. I also bought quilting pins because I'm working with faux fur and I love them. I didn't think different pins would work differently, but I was wrong. They have these big tabs on the heads that lay flatter than the ones with the round balls on the end. I really don't like those ones because they seem to warp the fabric. I also got the really small pins like my grandmother used, and they work great as well, but using them reminds me of all the surprise pins I found with my toes at grandma's house. Not a pleasant experience. I was showing my daughter how they "magically dissappear" in carpet. She was quite amused. Then she asked about the emery on the pin cushion and has been sharpening all the needles for me... lol Working with fur, I was very nervous and I saw a few videos recommend the walking foot so I put it on my machine. It seems to work pretty well, but yes it feels very restrictive and I feel like I've been pulling kind of hard fighting the feed dogs on the top to keep the fabric going where I want it to go. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong or it that's how it is supposed to feel when using the walking foot. It is nice that it holds the fabric in place, but I don't like it a whole lot and it seems to make it harder for me to hold things in place. Would you recommend any special feet for faux fur?
Hello Evelyn, very very informative video! like always ! I intuitively understood the importance of handling the fabric during my sewing experiences. I watched carefully (via youtube) the way the seamstresses arranged their hands at the sewing machine. I reproduced these gestures and, miracle!, The result of the seams was improved so much. Is it possible to hope for a video on these gestures from you? I'd be glad ! With all my thanks for your wise sharing and your benevolent smile.💐
You've given great advice to beginners. Thankfully my mom had taught me the same things you listed. I don't sew as much as I used to, when I do the design has to be simple and quick. Who doesn't love wearing a new outfit to the office on Monday? My best advice for beginners is start with simple designs, take your time and ask for help if needed. Live your videos.
I started sewing last christmas and I find it extremely satisfying that I already do all this and it came very natural. I'm one of those people that find peace doing manual "jobs" so I'm really happy I got everything right. Yay! also I have to say that when I was struggling with terms on patterns or things that went wrong I found this channel really useful and Evelyn... you're one of the best teachers!
One of the things I neglected to do as a beginner sewist was to transfer the markings on the pattern to my fabric. I didnt understand how important those markings were until much later. Also making sure to press each seam. I never did this as a beginner but now know how important it is to a successful garment.
You look marvelous in those tiny polka dots and the covered buttons are wonderful. I am just going to be 71. I started sewing three years ago. Most of what I knew came from watching my mother and admiring her hard work, though she was never an expert, she told us the basics. I think I will try a free trial of your school. You certainly make it fun.
before machine sewing, I would also add the extra step of tacking/basting seams by hand after pinning, then removing pins. Yes, I have broken needles while sewing over pins too :)
I smiled when one of your things not to do was sew over pins. When I took home ec in the late 60’s/ early 70’s we were REQUIRED to sew over pins when working in class. One of my friends got into trouble on a regular basis as she had learned to sew from her mother who told her to take out the pins as she went along. The idea was that stopping to take out pins as you worked took too much time. Of course creating homemade rather than handmade-looking items was just fine.
@@debbielough7754 Yes, and I've done that. But it's pretty impossible for them to go flying because the top portion is fastened into the machine, and the lower stop has the thread in it, and is below the fabric. It still sucks though, but not as big of a concern.
@@debbielough7754 Happened to me trying to force too much fabric under the foot too quickly. The needle snapped, hit me in the face and then flew off to I know not where. I still haven't found that broken needle shard. I still feel like a pre-beginner. These tips are so helpful to me.
I would add the importance of pressing every seam as you sew it; with steam and press cloth, usually using bursts of steam. Also, I purchased a wool pressing mat, which is accessible by simply rolling my chair around to an adjoining table, where it rests with the steam iron. No more up and down to the ironing board. Saves a lot of time.
This might be a little more specific than what's expected but: If you live with someone that uses the same sewing machine, double check settings and needle before continuing a project you paused on and were gone long enough they may have used the machine it may save a project. Especially if you were using easily scarred fabrics. Satin for instance. So just keeping in the habit in general is a good idea. (This also can go for people with 3d printers about settings and filament it resin)
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What's your own observations? What other things should we add to the list?
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I've noticed that the more you sew -- the fewer pins you use.
One thing I look at in disbelief is not ironing the pattern, or even not ironing the cloth before starting the pattern/cutting process.
I sew vinyl for upholstery. I use a walking foot.
I'm 64 and learned to sew from a woman with zero patience who rushed and short-cut through everything. And it showed. Then in Home Ec we learned to sew a simple skirt and I realized that you can't rush it. I also had to learn that there are some things you simply have to sew by hand.
Hi there, love your videos. I think a basic safety video would be quite appropriate. I'm not kidding. I had no idea so many things could happen, but yes,
they can and do happen. My issue is accidentally sewing thru my left index finger, while guiding the fabric around a curve and more or less locking in my need to have husband CAREFULLY cut thru the needle while trying to not get blood in the bobbin directly underneath my dripping finger. (Thanks to husband, I now have a cool chrome jolly roger skull on my machine.)
I would add that basting, stay stitching, and slowing down when doing more complicated seams will save tons of frustration.
I so agree!!!! I need to hear this again and again 😊
Oh yes.
Those are the extra little steps that save so much frustration later!
I have touble slowing down because I feel the pedal is too sensitive. Press a little and the machine just hums but the needle barely moves, give it a little more and brrrt, oops, that was seven stiches, not one
I second the stay stitching!YES~
I didn’t look through 300+ comments, but tools are important. You need a pair of fabric scissors that cut nothing else but fabric. They must be sharp, and kept sharp, and never used to cut paper. Also, take notes. If you are working on something and have to put it aside, you should write down where you stopped, your stitch length and tension, thread color, etc. as these things are easy to forget and hard to get exactly right again. Thank you for your videos!
Wishing I'd have seen this comment last week. I made the mistake of not annotating anything and my machine is digital, so after unplugging it, all my settings were reset to the default settings... 😔
I go one further than that - I have a pair of shears to cut synthetic fabrics, and my very best shears cut only natural fibers - wool, cotton, linen. And my family knows that touching my sewing shears is a capital offense! Just kidding ( but not much!)
Those are good tips. Thank you.
I am 60 and growing up my mother loved to sew, tailored clothing. A saying she would use was "you sew with your iron". It never made sense to me as a kid, but as I started to sew I understood what she meant. Pressing is often an under-taught skill.
I absolutely agree! A good press makes up for much lack of skill when you start. Basically pressing makes everything better right! 😄
My mother would get mad at me because the ONLY time I would iron is when I am sewing. It doesn't matter if I am sewing clothing or a quilt, It needs to be pressed. After washing and drying clothes, if you put them away properly, they usually do not need to be pressed. But all seams do need to be pressed.
while I guess you could get away with not pressing..it is very rare to do that. pressing is a must no matter what you are sewing.
I grew up hearing "you sew with your iron too". My mom isn't so great at sewing but, that's what her mom used to say. 😊
Yes!! Pressing makes all the difference between a garment looking professional and "homemade"!
I'd say one of the things I see beginners not realising is the TYPE of fabric makes all the difference to the result. You have to pay attention to what fabric the patterm suggests!
Fully agree, and I find that the most challenging, cotton poplin doesn’t work with all woven patterns 😉, but I love sewing with it!
Oh yes! And this is one of the hardest things to learn to right! And ONLY come with experience handling fabrics! 🙂
How true! And specially when you want to combine two fabrics (color blocking or such), they have to be similar in weight and texture, not only in material. I just learned by sewing a cardigan, that not even 2 ponte di Roma materials worked well together, one being more heavy and stiff than the other 😰 😥 Now I must see, what I can do with it 🤕. A lesson for a whole sewer's life...
@@Evelyn__Wood Absolutely! I had a crash course in fabric choices and handling as an amateur costumer for an amateur theatre group, where attempting to create Broadway worthy effects on a pass-the-hat budget was the rule, and it was a *wild* ride!
When you can create a Disney princess dress using a combination of glitter spandex, non-stretch crushed velvet, and poly organza, with edge trims in glitter machine embroidery thread sewn in a tight zigzag stitch, you have achieved sewing miracles. No, I would not volunteer to do that project again! XD
@@TrillianaEM If you don't want to seam rip and start over, I'd suggest stabilizing the softer hand material to reach the stiffness of the other. It's not ideal after you've already five your seaming, but it's doable.
I have been sewing for 60 yrs, having started off in a girls 4-H sewing club run by the local high school home economics teacher. She was patient and expected us to learn proper skills such as the techniques you describe. The first lessons were in hand sewing and one thing about sewing in the old school tradition is basting by hand for various parts of the garment prior to using the machine. For example, with the exception of invisible zippers, all zippers were first basted in before machine stitched. Hems were always hand stitched and thread tailor tacks were and still are used generously throughout. Of course we were taught to pull out pins before running over them on the machine, but I like all of us still tempted fate. Then one week before Christmas when I was sewing up fleece bathrobes for each of my four children I ran over a pin and it threw off the timing. I had to locate a machine technician and he was gracious enough to fix the machine overnight, probably encouraged to do so by my pitiful sobs! I have never run over a single pin since. Good hand sewing is a skill that is neglected and yet it is relaxing and prevents the frustration of spending time and money on constructing a garment but having a poor outcome. I think many new seamstresses would benefit by learning how to hand sew invisible hems, securely and attractively sew on buttons, and use basting to make fitting adjustments prior to bringing the garment to the machine. I am always left puzzling over videos I watch in which a person sews up a garment only to discover the completed garment doesn’t fit. It is no wonder that many new seamstresses give up altogether if that is the result.
I couldn't agree more, Learning to hand sew, and learning when it's wise to hand sew are really useful things. And remembering you have it as an option is very important, too. I was looking at a bulging lining recently and couldn't work out how to under stitch it effectively, and then I realised I could do it by hand, in odd places and in an unconventional way (some of it was almost like a face lift :-) ) and that part f the garment sits beautifully flat and is a treat to look at.
I never understood, why people dislike basting and handstitching.
I find it very relaxing and it's so perfect for listening to audiobooks and podcasts.
I'm often almost a littleunwillig, to switch to the machine in between, because it means interrupting my slow, peaceful persuit of the craft in favor of just running things through the sewing machine. Machine sewing is really just a means to an end for me, whereas I genuinely enjoy the handsewing parts of garment construction.
Yes! I totally agree! Sewing is not all my machine! There's plenty of basting and sewing that goes into a great garment. Thanks for sharing 😄
I quite agree. My first experience of sewing was in 3rd class when we made pinwheels and needlebooks, beautifully embellished with whipped running stitch, daisies and other VERY basic embroidery techniques. Our first garment was a skirt (in 5th class) which was basically two rectangles which we hand stitched together and elasticated the waist and hand stitched the hem. As a wearable garment it left a lot to be desired but it gave us the basics to build on.
We had to tack (aka baste) everything and so sewing over pins was never a thing. I still prefer to tack if I'm using a tricky fabric. It doesn't take long and is worth it in the long run.
I wish I could learn to sew in a traditional sewing class like you described. 😩
I have a pattern previously owned by my mother. The instructions included the importance of dressing for visitors, in case a neighbour popped in for unexpected visit. Justifying the need to always be presentable and well groomed. The instructions included ensuring all the housework was completed, so you didn't become distracted from your sewing.
fascinating!!
No pressure there, huh? Today with people working outside the home, sewing time would probably never happen if one had to be dressed and the home fastidious prepared for potential visitors first. Oh my!
i would have a mental breakdown
Love it! The rules they had! Mind you, I do get caught in my pjs far too often and the housework is never done!
Lovely bit of personal history and useful advice to live by
My grandmother was a seamstress and my grandfather was a tailor, and they taught every single one of us how to hand sew and do basic embroidery sewing buttons ,etc. Incredibly useful and now im sewing fully lined, finished, hand hemmed garments and she is so proud!
Awww you should be too! 😄
How interesting! My grandmother was also a seamstress and my dad had been trained as a tailor. Although both had passed on when I started sewing, I'm certain that my intense desire to constantly be sewing and learning more to take my sewing skills to the next level, is coming from them. It's in the genes!
Same here! My grandma was a seamstress (til she retired) and my grandpa was a tailor. I was taught hand-sewing at age 5 and they gifted me my first machine when I was just 7 years old. The smell of hot irons makes me nostalgic for my grandma’s shop. One of my favorite smells in the world.
"You are in control, you tell the fabric what to do!"
That's why my viscose tencel twill work in progress is in the corner of shame thinking about what it's done! I am in control, fabric, and you will stay in the corner of shame until you learn this lesson!
Ha ha ha. My viscose rayon argues with me, from cut to finish.
Same w/ my knit projects!
😂😆! But remember, just like children, don't ever keep them in time-out for too long, and when you let them out when, that you are in charge.
oh that's rich..lol poor fabric, poor you.
You made me laugh!!!
Knowing when to stop for the day is definitely a skill developed over time. As I get tired, I am less fussed with the finish I am getting, so as soon as I find myself thinking "it will do" when I see a wrinkle or pucker, I know it's time to stop. Back in the dim dark past, my mother-in-law destroyed the timing on my 1935, Singer 201K... it still makes me sad. She was one to sew over pins for speed and thought it didn't matter because the machine was old. She didn't know how I came by that 'old machine', or that I valued it very highly. Me, well I have accidently sewn over the odd pin and broken the odd needle over the years, but these days pins rarely even get near the machine. I hate pricking my fingers on pins, so I baste seams and remove the pins before they get anywhere near the machine.
I,too,value and use vintage Singer machines. Your '35 model may be restorable. I'd have a recommendation for repair person if you lived near Stillwater Oklahoma!
Seriously the older machines are less complex. Find fix-it shop that specializes in old Singers.
I feel the same way about knowing when to stop for the day. I like to spread the project out over multiple days. It gives me something to look forward to every day. When I wake up each morning I get excited because "I have to put in an invisible zipper today" or "I have to under stitch a collar or insert buttonholes".
Knowing when to quit is SO true. My worst mistakes are generally made when I'm tired, hungry and beginning to get frustrated with a project. Calling it quits for the day, getting a nights sleep can make all the difference between a nicely finished project or hours with a seam ripper!
Yes! Do not sew when you are tired! And do not hurry either. If all you damage is the piece, that's bad enough, but it is also dangerous. Case in point: after 28 years of sewing, I sewed through a fingertip. Tired and in a hurry to get it done so I could go to sleep I got careless. Not worth it and I tell all my students the story and that I was lucky I did not sew through a bone.
@@TaDarling1 nice!
Until lockdown started last year, I was the head of the pant line for a Savile Row tailor. When I started there, having never worked anywhere doing "commercial" sewing before, I had to learn to sew pin free. We are not allowed to use pins for things that are going through the machine (it's fine on some of the bits we hand sew) because our machines are expensive, and we are usually working with fabric that costs between £300 and £4000 per metre. A pin getting stuck or broken in the machine can put that machine out of action for a day or more, or worse, rip a hole in your fabric. On the pant line, we do very little basting (mainly on hems, and fly bits for pants going out for fitting), the rest is done by touch, eye and manually tensioning the fabric as you stitch. My sewing friends can't get their heads around how little I use my pins! I don't even use them when stitching a four way seam, it's all done by eye.
I don't use pins either, I am also a tailor. Pins hamper accuracy, and just get in the way. Not to mention the wasted time. I do put a pin at the sleeve head and notches when I have to ease them in, so I can make sure my pitch is right.
I'd love to see a video of that. I do easy stuff without pins, but to see a real tailor do the complex stuff would be great.
Same. I very rarely use pins. But I do know which fabrics I can get away with full speed and which I have to slow down a bit for. I’ve tried to explain it to friends but it always ends with “you just kinda figure out which textures are jerks but screwing up a lot”
I can imagine how stressful that would have been to learn, but what an amazing skill to have.
My mom would sit and sew for hours, huge wall to wall draperies for meeting rooms! I have just started sewing again, after 40 years, and call upon my mom's wisdom and guidance to help me when I am doing something really stupid!
Things I've learned thanks to sewing and thanks to working in a fabric shop: (hopefully these will be useful to someone out there!)
- the type of fabric makes a huge difference in how a garment will look and behave
- if you've not worked with a particular type of fabric before, find some remnants or scraps to practice some basic stitching and shaping with
- it's always a good idea to test-stitch on a scrap of fabric when you've reloaded a bobbin on your machine, to verify that the tension hasn't somehow been altered (I have a touchy machine myself, but it's been a helpful things when I've learned on a machine that's new to me)
- not all cottons are made equal; you can have two quilting cottons but the colours will vary from dye lot to dye lot, the fiber construction can vary, and the feel of them will most certainly vary; this applies to other fabrics as well!
- muslin is our friend and it is extremely versatile
- hand-finishing different parts of a garment, like collars or sleeve openings, is entirely okay
- never be afraid to hand-stitch in a zipper
- pay attention to the kind of interfacing recommended on patterns, because you don't want to use craft-weight interfacing when the pattern calls for feather-weight
- try out new stitching methods using scraps so you don't run as much risk of ruining your pretty fabric
- be mindful of how you pre-wash your fabric! and never be afraid to wash the fabric before you sew with it, because heaven knows you don't want to make a great looking garment that you can't wear after the first washing (quilters sometimes don't wash their cotton and that's their choice and that's okay; I am speaking specifically about garments)
- never be afraid to ask questions and verify things as you go along
- you don't have to be super fast when making anything
- if your hands are hurting, stop working and take a break or set it down for the day
What a great list! Thanks for sharing 😀
I would add pressing skills to this list; as a default, press all seams as sewn, open from the wrong side, then from the right side (with sleeve board, ham etc. if necessary to follow the shape of the garment).
My mother insisted pressing as you go was essential, even when my 13 year old self was in a hurry!
Yes pressing!! This is definitely something you learn is so important as you become more and more experienced!
I would go one step further (or backwards). Press the seam flat before you press it open. It helps to set the stitches and results in a nicer press. This is obviously trickier on something like a princess seam, but that's a toughie anyway.
And one last thing: not all seams are meant to be pressed open. Know when to press open and when to press to one side. Happy sewing!
@@EsmereldaPea If rearraging the way the seam lies is needed (as for a felled seam), I tend to do it after the initial pressing, as I find it gives the tidiest finish on the outside.
Pressing is the only time I enjoy ironing something. It makes whatever you're making so much better, especially after pre-washing your fabric and then cutting the pattern out on freshly washed and ironed fabric *bliss*
My mom was a seamstress when she was young. When she looked at something handmade, she always looked at it from the inside first. She said how the inside looks is a better indication of the care and skill of the sewist.
Pre-washing fabric before making garments is something I do more now that I have more experience with sewing clothing. I did not need to do that previously with making quilts and bags.
This is something I skipped all the time as a novice seamstress, but now I never skip it - unless it's for a crafty type of item that will never be washed (like a Christmas stocking, that kind of thing).
@@shariwelch8760 I do even then because it sews up nicer and can cause skipped stitches. I also don't want to work with all the finishing chemicals. But it's probably not that big of a deal, really. It's just a habit, but that's why I do it even then. It's been drilled into me.
i also learnt that you need to wash ELASTIC! apparently it shrinks more than fabric
@@furryfromfinley3602 I hadn't heard that before! 😱🙊
@@beebuzz959 fabric is dusty having been sat in not so clean surfaces
When I started sewing, I religiously followed the pattern instructions, even when they did not make sense. Now, I use the pattern instructions as a guide, but modify (or ignore them), to suit my style of sewing. Eg most patterns have installing the zip as the last step when the dress is fully sewn. I prefer to install the zip before I sew the dress up, so that I am sewing "on the flat" as I find that easier, and get a better finish.
I agree it makes more sense, is easier and for me more successful with a more attractive finished product.
@@hume6900 My zipper tribulations have made me wonder if there is a better way. Thanks for posting this comment.
@@amythomas762, you’re very welcome. Now it won’t be possible to sew in the flat if you are replacing a zip as it is too much work and not always possible or practical to unsew the necessary seams to make it flat. However, the initial construction it is ideal.
funny that is exactly what fashion school teaches in garment construction.
I see a lot of dresses these days with the zipper in full view - as a "design element" - and am convinced it's only because someone somewhere decided that sewing a nice/proper zipper was too much work. I hate the look, and it's never flattering to boot!
So glad my mother and 4H leaders were by my side when I started sewing at 11. . . 61 years ago. I learned from “ seasoned” sewists. I think the most important lesson I’ve learned is that no matter how good you are, “mistakes happen” and you never quit improving. Picking the right marriage of pattern and fabric for one’s own body is the most important first step.
Barbara I couldn't agree more! Mistakes always happen, it's part of the process and I don't think that we ever stop learning and get better at our sewing! ❤
So true, I am smarting because I have worked on a garment all week using fabric I loved but knowing deep down that the pattern would not suit e
Going slowly-very important for curves and accurate sewing in tricky parts. Which is not how I always drive, lol!
I am not ashamed to walk my foot around a curve, ha ha.
😂😂 U ever notice the way u “drive” spreads (infects) across many...modes of “travel”? Generally speaking. Of course!😉
@@user-mv9tt4st9k 😆
When I first started sewing many moons ago, I was always told to wash my hands first thing!
Especially if the fabric is white.
My wife has been watching you for a some time. She has been sewing for years. Me as a guy and a true beginner I have learned a lot from you. I have tried a few simple things. So thanks for all of helpful tips.
Go you! When my son turned twelve I showed him how to hand-sew his Scout patches to his uniform. He has me tie off his sewing.
We can learn something every day! I have been teaching my now 13 year old son how to sew, starting with the cuts he made into brand new clothes. When asked what on earth happened to a t-shirt, cotton pants and an oven mit... He said he was drying off the knife. That is, the 10" brand new Chef knife! ,🤦🏽♀️ I told him whelp, you're old enough to learn how to fix what you break. Turns out he's picking it up nicely 🤗.
Richard...that is awesome.
Interesting list. I would add changing needles with different projects, adjusting tension, cleaning lint out of the bobbin area frequently, and backstitching.
I agree, except I never change needles unless I have to. If it's not the right one for the project, sure. But I mean I don't their them away until they seem they're no longer good.
@@beebuzz959. I find that changing needles creates a smoother seam. I always change needles to match my fabrics weight, using ball point needles makes smoother seams.
Basting, taking time to hand finish things, and ironing what seems like 10x more than necessary to a beginner. Iron before and after every seam at least.
YES !!! Can not agree with you MORE , ironing is often over looked as extra steps but the result is WELL WORTH the EFFORT ❤️
I grew up with my grandmother using a singer treadle sewing machine, she was a designer level sewer! Later her daughter was an extraordinary dressmaker, she could look at a design and replicate it for her clients! While I have sewn for fifty years and enjoy it, never as a rule follower! Patterns are to me just a suggestion! My daughter was dressed in dresses from one pattern but looked totally different! Used the dress pattern to make a matching coat! I love making costumes, recently my great granddaughter wanted a really modern character (ready made over fifty dollars) so when she said: I really look like her! It made the struggle of making the pattern, figuring out how to form the structural pieces, and redoing pieces worth it all! Your video pointed out what to keep in mind while learning and good reminders for creative sewers! Blessed and safe days!
Great list, my add (more for myself) is to Slow Down! Just because my machine can go like a rocket doesn't mean i have to. My sewing improved dramatically when i learned to slow it down
One of the differences I have noticed is that experienced sewers don't tend to use the suggested pattern layouts provided and will, whilst maintaining grain lines, place the pattern pieces, often one at a time - then cut - to use the least amount of fabric. I have to say that I find it one of the more satisfying aspects of sewing - apart from have a lovely new and well-fitting garment to wear. I have been sewing for 40 years and know that many of the tips and methods that I use were handed down the generations from my great grandmother who was a tailor in the 1920s.
I rarely follow the pattern layouts. They seem to have too much wasted pieces. I do have a tip that goes with this, If you are going to be doing fussy cutting fabric, buy extra. Like if you want a focal part of your fabric centered in the top of your dress. If you want your strips to match up. Keep fabric going in the same direction. I will make lines on the patterns where I want the repeats to line up.
My grandmother supported the family as a dressmaker and tailor after my grandfather died young. While I remember her sewing, she didn't teach me much. I'm sure I could have learned a LOT from her. I learned everything from my mother, who sewed much of our clothing, but she didn't have the professional experience my grandmother did. Hmmm. I just realized that I am a third generation wedding dress designer!
No
I'll never forget the time sewed over a pin and it flew into my eye..my glasses blocked it, but after that I never!
😶
This is a cautionary tale if ever I've heard one!
Wow, so glad you were wearing glasses! 🙈
This is like the third time I've heard someone say this! 😱 That's terrifying
This happened to me and my glasses too!
😱😱😱😱😱
😮
At one point the captions tell us we might break our needle if we sew over "Europeans" and I must say that yes, I imagine if you tried sewing over a European it might get a bit bumpy. Make that's one instance where you really do need a walking foot. :D
🤣🤣🤣🤣 A walking foot with soft slippers in that case then!
I almost commented on the captions, ha ha ha. Did you see the captions translate "pins" as "p&nis"?
@@Evelyn__Wood I was gonna say, they probably won't like being walked all over either.
No the Europeans could get hurt and for walking, I really can’t recommend 2 feet enough, lol 😂.
As I've become an experienced sewer, I've started "batch assembling" my garments more. In that, if different parts of the garment all need to be pinned and sewn, I pin as many seams as I can at once, then sew as many as I can at once, then iron, and so on... It's saved me a lot of time and reduces the number of trips i make to the ironing board.
Always make a test version (muslin/toile). I didn’t do this at first but now always do when I make a pattern for the first time.
I'm a winging it kind of sewist. LOL. I just cut and go. I technically have a muslin when I duplicate my favorite top, though. I'm moving into womens clothing (kids are grown now) so I'll have to slow down and make a muslin. Making adjustments is hard but tailors cut corners. My mother of the bride dress they just took up the shoulders and didn't fix the darts. If I had known how I could have done the alterations myself. They had to shorten the zipper too. I'm shorter than average from shoulder to waist.
Me too!! 😄 Always for first time pattern makes!
I am not disciplined about doing a mockup. I did draft a perfect fitting sloper and use the cardboard versions of the patterns to make adjustments. What I really need to remember to do is take notes for the next time. 😉
@@beepbopboop3221 me too! I always just see how the pattern fits and adjust from there. Besides, often enough I'm able to get material for cheap enough it's like a muslin, so I might as well just make it and wear that instead. But I'm lucky, there are some great fabric stores around me, plus I've found some great stuff at thrift stores.
I recently watched a video that discussed the benefits making a muslin/toile for complicated garments before doing the final version and it made me curious about what sewers do with all the test versions after the finished garments have been made?
Your joy for sewing is infectious.
Thank you for your tutelage.
Awww thanks for watching! 😀
My biggest lesson was to slow down take my time and think out each step.
It was hard to start with as I was excited to get my finished garment but as I slowed down my sewing got better and better.
Yes, Rose, mental sewing is a big part of the process! Often during the twilight before sleeping, the next step comes to mind, construction confusion clears or needed notions/equipment lists are formulated.
I agree. I would rather have a well-sewn garment. When friends have told me it takes too much time to sew, I estimate the time it takes to travel to a store, find that fit and style you love, try it on, and then pay for what might be a poorly constructed garment (have you noticed the length of RTW stiches?) out of semi-decent fabric.
Same here.
I have been doing those for years. I have had a needle in my hands as far back as I can remember. I am now 64 years old. My mom let me start on the sewing machine at 12 years old. I just finish the sixth grade. That summer I totally took over her sewing machine. I made all my mom waitress uniforms, my sister and I dress for school. In the eighth grade I made my brother a dress shirt and sport coat. By the 11 grade I made my brother a complete suit, (shirt, tie, vest, jacket and pants). Never felt comfortable in drawing out patterns though. Boy my mom sure could. I do adapt patterns though. Take one piece and use it in another though.
Hand basting (tacking) is an essential skill that I would add to the list. Yes, it’s an extra step and it’s time consuming both to install and remove afterwards, but it gives a much more accurate result.
I totally agree Celia!! I think this works have to be the next thing that works make my list!
I like to hand baste my sleeves in and check they are the right way round etc before sewing them in permanently.
I actually hand-basted the entirety of my first self-made garment. I cut an old bedsheet into clothes. Unfortunately, said bedsheet was satin. I simply could not pin it and gave up. I still find basting threads in it sometimes that I missed when picking them out.
yes...i was taught as a child....Pin...Tack ..remove pins...SEW!
I am on my 15th sewing machine (12 were Singers), my grandmother made shirts for Selfridges in the 1920s and taught me; my tips are tailor's chalk and long and short tacking (on top of proper pressing skills mentioned below). I have made 24 quilts since 1st Dec 2020 and my walking foot is a blessing ! I also had a boutique in the 1970s where I made some of the clothes.
This makes me even so more grateful for my Grandma patiently teaching me to sew before ever giving me a pattern to work on. So much of this assume knowing what to do and when, is invaluable!
And now, because of your wonderful videos, I am in the middle of a "garment renovation", something totally new to me, but those skills i had and your tips, have made this a fun experience!
And last week at JoAnn's, I was buying trim for my garment renovation, and next to the cutting table as I waited my turn, I spied a display of discounted patterns FOR ONE CENT EACH!!! And what was even more magical was I found found basis types of clothing IN MY SIZE RANGE, so I could begin making my clothes again. And I already had at home 3 sets of sheets for toiles...so very perfect!!! Can't wait to see how I progress and learn in the coming months, lol!
Nice!!
I want to go to your JoAnn's.
My mother did not have the patience to teach me to sew. I taught myself on great grandma's treadle machine when I was a little girl. I took home economics as a teenager and learned to sew.
Lol... I just finished watching a pattern making video and was cringing the whole time cuz she was sewing over all her pins! 😳
Things that I would add are:
Fabric prep. Wash, press, and level off (I can't remember the technical term) your fabric before using it. This is so important! I personally wash my fabrics a few times. This really helps with understanding how the fabric behaves.
Pressing!!! Get or make your own tailor's ham! Get a few different shapes depending on your needs, but if you're sewing for your family you will definitely need different sizes.
It's not the machine, it's you! This is in line with what you were saying about the sewing machine is not going to sew for you. Personally, I forced myself to get good at hand sewing and hand embroidery. I just did the same stitches and techniques over and over again. The dexterity that you have with your hands carries over to how well you manipulate the fabric thru the machine.
Thanks for the great video! God Bless 😊
One of the skills I rarely see sewers use on TH-cam videos is basting. My mother was an apprentice dressmaker in the sixtires before she got married, and the sewing lines and other markings on the pattern were always marked by basting stitches to ensure accuracy. It seems to be a lost art.
Sorry to reply so late (and so randomly) but I absolutely love basting! I just finished my first ever dress entirely by hand and there were so many times that I basted instead of pinning. It's so quick and easy to do and compared to how many times I pricked myself on pins previously, I don't think I'll ever go back!
I like how you said think of the pattern as a tool. For me I think of it as a starting point. I modify for fit, length etc to make it how I want.
Oh my goodness, thank you for saying that a pattern is just a tool! As I've tried to learn to sew over the years, I have been so confused by people whose advice is to "follow the pattern". Sure, it explains the pieces, but how does one skillfully put them all together?! As a fiber person, I'll point out this is how knitting works too! Knitting patterns don't teach you how to knit - they assume you know the stitches and need guidance on making a particular style.
Hey wow, my Gran taught me both manoeuvring and sewing in a curve from the very beginning. And the stitch line (including the pinning!). Plus she drilled into me the reason for pulling pins as we go. And pattern tweaking.
Clearly I owe her a debt 😂
Love the wisdom in this video, and the comments. Thanks guys! Here's one 'beginner' who appreciates what y'all have to pass along. 😁👍❤
I always checked the finished size of the garment on the pattern as the finished ease is very important and my body does not fit the normal and so I always have to blend sizes and do bust adjustments on everything :( It only took 5-6 garments to point out the fact that I cannot just follow a pattern lol. It was an eye-opening lesson that forced me to take my sewing skills up a few notches but the learning has been fun and my clothes fit soooo much better. Thank you for the vid on stay stitching, it cured so many problems :)
I have had similar issues. I take detailed measurements and use drafted cardboard sloper patterns now. I am long waisted and fairly square shouldered so adjusting a pattern to allow for that makes a huge difference in how the finished garment looks.
I love your translator. "Better sewists" became "better solaced" in the text. )) That is so true even though the translator missed the original intent. As we improve our skills, we are happier with the result. The iron IS equal tool to the sewing machine. Printed patterns are mere suggestions. I was 6 feet tall as a 12 yr old girl. Sewing allowed me to wear girl's clothes instead of women's clothes. At 76, I still add 5 inches to sleeves... because I CAN. )))) Thank you for sharing your knowledge so others will know its ok too.
I’ve been sewing for a year now and since I’m young I’ve pretty much grown into having the wonderful tailors on TH-cam (like you) teach me a lot of things. I’ve sewed 9 garments and various other accessories, but never ONCE have I bought and used a pre-made pattern. At first it was because I wanted the cost of making a garment stay relatively low, but then I realized that it’s kind of unnecessary since I would be altering the pattern to fit my needs anyways. I’ve learned to make my own patterns and it’s a really useful skill to have, honestly. I would encourage anyone to take up pattern-making as a side hobby.
I have been sewing for 54 years. Prior to laying out/cutting a pattern, I always wash my water washable fabrics. I then iron the fabric, matching the selvages. In woven fabric, I also pull a thread in the crosswise grain, and cut perfectly straight ends to the fabric. Pre-shrinking the washable fabric helps the final garment retain an excellent fit and shape.
That's what all the seamstresses at work tell me over and over again hahah
I have learnt that it’s not just the basic measurements you need ie bust ,waist hip , but shoulders to bust neck to shoulder etc if you need a perfect fit and don’t go by pattern size ie 12 , 14 16, etc. measuring is so important . I made so many Ill fitting dresses in the beginning as I just used the paper pattern straight out o& the packet for the size I thought it was .
I am so blessed because I watched my mom sew for years so when I took home ec it was a breeze (Catholic all girls’ school). But I thought it was more “hip” to buy clothes (although my mom made my junior and senior prom dresses to my specific liking). Now that I have returned to sewing (it was a whimsical decision and now I’m HOOKED), I jumped back in with both feet. I haven’t made those mistakes you mentioned, but I underestimated measuring and scaling the patterns to my size (and realizing patterns are not the sizes of store bought clothing). I so wish I kept all of those dress patterns my mom had!!!
I always stress to my students the importance of clipping and pressing seams as you sew them. Also never never hold pins in your mouth! You can definitely inhale a pin requiring surgery!
I have a friend whose cat swallowed a pin and very sadly died - she couldn't get him to the vet quickly enough. Swallowing a pin is very dangerous for us, and for our pets. Keep your sewing room door closed, and be very mindful of your pins and needles, for both the humans and the animals that you love.💗
I teach high school Textiles. When I get a new class I tell them that for health and safety reasons if I see any child with a pin in their mouth I cannot use them anymore for hygiene reasons and they will have to pay for a new set.
Happened once and word got around. 6 years later and no one else has dared.
Never in 40 years as surgeon seen an inhaled pin!your larynx is too clever. Not even swallowed pin, it might be unhygienic though thinking about how many of my pins end up on the floor!
Oh my gosh! So many pins in the mouth. I never thought about that.
@@lizredmond440 here’s a first hand report. amp.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2012/jul/13/experience-inhaled-pin-into-lung
Wow, I wouldn’t say I’m an experienced sewer. I’ve been sewing since I was nine years old. I took one home at class. However, a lot of the things you’re saying and demonstrating are so true. Intuitively I have always gone by the curve and not fought the fabric. I’ve also always pinned going along the same line because I don’t it just saves the pens I think. And it makes it easier for me to follow that same line. And that was something that has always been intuitive of my thinking. Also never so over PINS ever ever ever ever ever.
Not sure if it has been mentioned but preparing your fabric is something new sewers tend to not do. There are few fabrics and textures that do not require preparation. Many call it pre-washing, I call it “pre-shrinking”. LOL! I lost so many first time pieces to not pre-washing my fabrics in the beginning. Many say this step is not necessary. Most fabric is shipped on bolts from wherever it comes from. I have also seen all types of “hitchhikers” in some fabrics. So you pre-wash to handle that, odors picked up during shipping, and shrinking. It is a pain but it also helps you see if the weave is straight for grain-lines or if there is some kind of fabric weakness that needs to be cut around. I see this a lot in international linens so finding a really good quality fabric supplier will help you.🌻
I broke a needle once by sewing over a pin and the part that broke of jumped away. I had never been that happy I wear glasses.
OH LORD YES! Sewed over a pin. Broken needle tip flew at me and hit my glasses! I don’t ever wear them while stitching... it was pure luck!
Same happened to be although I didn't wear glasses and the pin went on my eyelid O___O
@@LovelyGyunyu 😬
@@LovelyGyunyu that must have been an awful shock to you.
Dangerous indeed 😃
I have a walking foot and it is a game changer for certain fabrics and applications. Sewing stretchy knits with a walking foot is a pleasure. Trying to do it without is a disaster. Using a walking foot for quilting and binding quilts is also much easier. The different feet exist for a reason. Use them for the application they are meant for and they are wonderful. Trying to use them for everything is where you run into trouble. It's like using only a zipper foot for sewing. Use the right tool for the right job and everything works so much better.
Thanks for your many wonderful videos! I would add to this one, what I tell my own sewing students at a local college crafts center: Each step in garment sewing that you do carefully and accurately rewards you by making each subsequent step quicker. Students often are in a hurry to cut out a garment, but sloppy edges make it hard to tell where the seam line is.
I've been sewing for a number of years but I'm always learning something new. One thing I'd like to add that experienced sewers do that many beginners do not - pressing after each sewing line. While pressing isn't "sewing" it can help your sewing go from looking so-so to amazing.
Thank you so much Evelyn! Love your channel and how much you love sewing and sharing your sewing knowledge. Really enjoy watching your videos.
Thanks for confirming that I'm not a beginner! I never thought about it. I'm not sure when I crossed over from beginner to intermediate. Although I'm a weird beginner. My first project as an adult was a child's swimsuit. My daughter had ripped the bottom up and needed a new one in the middle of winter. At the time it had been a decade since I learned the basics in 7th grade. It was great to learn how to sew stretch fabric with stretch stitch (don't forget your ball point machine needles). This project is also great for learning to control the fabric because you have to pull the fabric stretched out as it goes under the foot. It's much easier. I learned how to improvise on the 2nd swimsuit. The first machine died and the next one did not have a stretch stitch. Just use a "wobble stitch". This is a really narrow zig zag. It worked just fine. This was about 15 yrs ago. No chance of looking it up on TH-cam. Sometimes I could find a sewing blog.
Beginner's should try something new or something that seems harder. It might be easier than you think. It's ok if you make a mistake. That's how you learn. Just buy extra fabric to account for that.
Oh I absolutely love your last bit of advice! I've been sewing on and off since I was about maybe 9 but never made a full garment of my own until very recently, and I definitely learned a ton from going into a big project that way
Really helpful tips! I'm sewing again after many years away, and my biggest issue had always been going too fast or taking shortcuts. I used to skip stay-stitching and proper seam finishing out of impatience, but now understand how important they are to the integrity of the garment. Simple things like how often you change your needle, using the right needle for your fabric, retreating your machine, watching tension - all make a huge difference.
I am so appreciative of these videos. They are so helpful as a person who is just starting to learn to sew garments and can't consult her very experienced mother, and very, VERY experienced grandmother due to lockdown. Thank you!
I'm European and most European patterns don't include seam allowance which is harder on beginners but it does make one used to that stitching line 😃
Wow thanks for the heads up!!
@@carbine090909 there are some pattern companies that include seam allowance or have both options... Sew over it, sew different and Compagnie M come to mind.... But the German ones and Czech ones don't have them and the sewing magazine Ottobre doesn't either 😁
Thats interesting because I watch the german youtube channel PattyDoo and she includes a seam allowance in her patterns (literally i know zero german except the sewing terms. Nahtzugabe!)
@@afiiik1 how does that work? Do you cut 3/4" further out, or does the cut line include the allowance without delineating it in the pattern?
@@stacey738 yeah pattydoo does include 7mm for knits I think 🤔
My mum and grand mother taught me the first three things when I was a kid. When I was around ten years old it had become a natural part of sewing that I did without thinking.
Some patterns are actually good to learn with though. My professional seamstress/tailor Mom helped my sister and I pick out patterns "for beginners" when we were teenagers so we wouldn't get frustrated trying to comprehend complex instructions. We tended to pick up Very Easy Vogue patterns a lot because we liked the sound of that, but Mom would get us to look more closely at the pattern first -- as you do too.
I'm not afraid to pull things out and re-do them, re-cut them, add a dart or tuck, chop excess fabric away or add an extra band if something isn't long enough. I just keep tweaking until I am happy with imy garment.
I do the same thing. Finished garments that look wonky do not "spark joy."
Exactly 😃 in the process..
Me too. A friend passed so I inherited several 4x shirts. I’m having fun repurposing them to fit my body. ✂️
my machine is at the repair shop right now from damage done by sewing over and hitting a pin. Lesson finally learned.
Like lots of others I didn't know anyone who sewed. Somehow I avoided accidents and made few mistakes. At school hand sewing a simple top I didn't like or ever want to wear, was so boring ! We did not learn much there I may say. Its true you pick up as you go along. But I do love to hear about the why's and wherefore's as you might call them. Very helpful to everyone.So thankyou, love your videos !
Kinda off topic, but I have used my scraps to sew into rag quilts for my neighbor to give away when she is in the city. Anything small can be saved in a pillowcase, sewn closed and donated to animal shelters to use for beds. Happy sewing!
I would add three things that I have discovered in my recent sewing restart:
1) not every part of every garment can/should be sewn by machine
2) if you haven't made that pattern already and know it fits well, make a mockup of at least the big shapes (bodice and sleeves)
3) prewash your fabric - and for a long length, give it a twist and sew the ends to each other to make a mobius strip, then it doesn't tangle into a ball in the dryer
(I'd say 4, pressing, but I've been mainly working with flannel that doesn't press worth a darn (I tried!) and linen, which pretty much finger-presses if you pinch it, and I've also been hand-sewing so I can manually hold the seam apart while I'm felling it so I don't get bunchy lumps. I suppose if I were using my machine I might trek upstairs for the iron, but doing it every time I finish a seam is not something I'm feeling I need to do yet, but I usually do iron everything once it's done.
Good advice. One question: how do you make a mockup? Do you have to sew the whole garment or just baste the side seems?
@@davina845 It really depends on what I'm making and where the fit issues are likely to be. Sometimes I will do a full mockup of the bodice part completely made of reclaimed scrap fabric (like old bedsheets or leftover polycotton from another project, cotton from some car seat covers I made and then took apart, etc) that goes down at least to the hips so I know if the side seams will be vertical or if I need more room in the front or the back, and half the time I'll only mock up one side of a thing (especially when I'm doing sleeves), to make sure it's got the armpit in the right place or see how a sleeve pattern is going to look or if there's enough room for boobs, or that the seams that connect the two sides are where they need to be (ie that I'm not way too big for the pattern, as some patterns have interesting concepts of hip to waist ratios that don't fit my rather columnar figure)... and sometimes I'll have the bodice part done out of my actual finish fabric but I'll grab some scrap fabric to baste in and figure out what I'm actually doing with the sleeves, be cause sleeves are evil... (I've actually got one mockup sleeve of plaid upholstery fabric that's been sewn onto at least two different bodices now as I refine my medieval patterns). Sometimes if you do a full mockup of a very complicated pattern, you can use it as a lining or interlining, like the canvas I'm using for my current corset mockup, those pieces I've sewn together will probably end up being the actual base structural fabric that I will cover with something pretty and line with something comfortable. I also have a handful of reclaimed zippers I use for mockups when the garment will need buttons or lacing but that's really impractical for fittings. and pinning myself into a mockup is asking to get poked repeatedly :)
Thank you for the tip on washing fabric, I always end up with a tangled mess!!🙂 I too use old sheets to make muslins (mick ups). Thrift stores always have them.
I regularly buy fabric as and when I see it, sometimes not even with a project in mind but one thing I religiously do is prewash washable fabrics. They then progress to my ironing pile and get pressed with all my general ‘ironing’. I then attach a safety pin onto the selvedge to indicate it’s been prepped before storing it away. The pleasure I get from being able to get straight into a project without having to go through the discipline of washing, drying and pressing the fabric before I start is immense! A tad childish I know, but if like me, patience is not your virtue, then this is a tip for you! 😁
Safety pin in the selvedge is a GREAT idea! I'm going to use this!
I commit the "sin" of washing even linen before I make anything. I hate dry-cleaning anything and unless it's a structured suit that would far better with dry cleaning, I'd rather wash it myself. One of the times I realized the wisdom of pre-washing is in making masks over the last year. For a couple, I was impatient and didn't prewash the fabric, but then found they shrunk way too much, so now every fabric I buy is prewashed in hot water and dried on hot - and then ironed while damp.
My mother recently started sewing again after around 25 years.. I’m helping her understand stuff and I told her TH-cam can help explain stuff if I confuse her as well
I use my walking foot when I’m making hoodies. It works well with the bulky material. Loved your video!!!
I recommend reading through the sewing directions in their entirety prior to doing anything else. This brings clarity to the general sewing process while also allowing one to use creativity to possibly change a pattern construction or design plan, Happy sewing!
Being a garment sewist I never used a walking foot, but I learned how essential it is to quilting...which led to me including it in my garment sewing...it really helps with knits.
Great tips! The ones that I've learned the hard way are these: Keep your machine clean, lint can build up and really impact how your machine sews; use the correct needle for the fabric and change your needle often; when learning a new skill or working on a new type of fabric, practice, practice, practice on scraps to get confident; don't shortcut on basting or or other prep, they don't save time and won't give you professional results. For me a pattern is just the place to start. When you gain experience, and confidence, you can make changes and customize to make your project uniquely yours. The multi-size patterns are fantastic and I never use the original tissue, I make my own pattern on tracing paper. I've changed sleeves (made them longer, shorter, puffier, less puffy) as well as make a skirt longer or shorter. I've used a knee length dress a floor length.
Pertaining to " patterns as a tool", I am forever pulling out patterns and saying, I can take this pattern and add this, or take away that, or change it some other way to make what I really want. I love the creation that the patterns evoke in me.
Hand baste (instead of leaving your pins in and sewing over those pins) before you actually start sewing....is "next level" (in my personal opinion) especially with difficult, cumbersome, thicker, or several layers of fabrics, being sewn together✌🏻
When you hand baste, do you baste right on the stitch line?
@@frangray7228you can but it’s wise to use a thread that’s easy to see against the fabric so it’s easier to remove
I loved your video and the wonderful information in it. Great to hear an Australian voice to. I’ve been watching quite a few of the American sewing community videos.
I love this! Great video! I have wanted to learn how to sew for 10 years or so. My mother sewed and sewed beautifully. She passed away 15 years ago and I am so upset with myself that I never took the time to learn from her.
Learning how crucial ironing is is a thing I did not know when I was starting out
One way to avoid using pins at critical points (where multiple seams meet, at notches, etc.) is to BASTE those points together BY HAND. My grandmother taught me to do this in the seam allowance area (leaving the actual stitch line untouched). She did use pins for the rest of the seam, taking them out as she went without sewing over them, but she never had to worry about whether or not her seams or notches lined up because she always basted them before sewing the seam. I use contrasting thread in areas I know I'll be removing the basted stitches, such as where there is a need to iron seam allowances open for finishing. This makes it easy to find when I'm ready to remove them. Today we might think this is too time consuming, but my grandmother had done it that way for decades and was really quite quick. I'm a bit slower than she was, but I enjoy the technique nonetheless. It helps me feel confident about how well I've lined things up.
As someone who is still very much a beginner, and has learned everything I do know about sewing from TH-cam tutorials I can’t believe I never thought of this. My last issue with basting was that I did it over the stitch line and couldn’t then (easily) get the baste stitches out later. Thank you for this.
Coming back to sewing simple garments after years and doing more quilt-piecing recently, I'd say cutting well and ironing seams, taking the time to do things carefully and to pay attention to the details are pretty important.
When I would assist in the theatre costume shop I would tell students, the sewing machine is like a car. You can't drive it any faster than you can control it!
I agree with Farmwife, I have only been sewing for 56 years, but the items she mentioned are key. I learned to sew garments from my mother who sewed a lot for myself and my 11 siblings. I took garment construction (including fit and color) classes for 4 years in high school and 95% of what I wore in high school was me made. Sadly this skill is no longer offered at lot of schools and there was no garment construction offered for my kids in the 90-00's.
I too learned to pin perpendicular to the seam line and to pull the pins out. When I started watching sewing TH-cam videos it drove me nuts when sewists pinned "the wrong way", however I now pin parallel at times. I only remember hitting a pin a couple of times in all these years. With the modern machines I am very careful with pins.
Basting! My teacher taught me to baste, then I got lazy and annoyed at it, and now I am basting again, though less than before and a couple of millimetres above the stitch line... it saves me from worrying about pins and moving fabric.
I really enjoyed this video! For me personally, there were two points that I didn't quite agree with, but they are based on my personal experiences, and I say what works for you is what you should do! First one -- walking foot; I don't use one when I'm crafting garments, but I DO use one when I'm quilting - I reason that it is because generally, when quilting, I'm sewing through thicker layers of fabric, and the walking foot really helps. And my second one, and I KNOW I'm in the minority on this one, is sewing over pins; I learned how to sew when I was 9 years old --- taught by my Grandmother. Today, I am a professional Costumer -- 40 years later, I still sew over needles, and I intend to keep doing so... yes, occasionally my needle hits a pin, but I've never had a needle shatter, break, fly into my face, etc. The needle hits, the pin bends, and life goes on. I am still using the same machine that I learned on; I have maintenance done on it after each show I costume, and 40 years later, my machine is working FLAWLESSLY... so FOR ME, sewing over pins hasn't been an issue, and has actually been a beneficial process... To each his [or her] own! But this video overall was ASBSOLUTELY WONDERFUL, and I am a proud, new Subscriber!!
I will also probably always sew over pins, but much less so now than I used to. And I HAVE had needles break and fly around dangerously. So I'm more careful. But thankfully it's never damaged the machine itself.
I stopped sewing over pins when I hit one and the needle tip shot of straight at my eye. It hit dead center in the .net of my glasses lens.
Thank you for this video. I'm teaching my kids to sew and sometimes it's difficult to remember what I didn't know as a beginner.
Lovely to meet you!
Mother and grandmother sewed. I was warned to stay away from the sewing machine. A treadle machine. I loved pressing the foot peddle.
I learnt sewing in school and in home science class .
We had to make garments. It was a nightmare! But it was mum's delight. She trained me to use her treadle Singer machine. After school, I went for tailoring classes. Your videos bring back beautiful memories. At the moment sewing skirts for a pair of twin girls. I hope to learn and
Contribute to this lovely channel. Love all the tips being shared here from experienced sewers.
Slow down over thick seams. When I was a young teen, I was making my own jeans, and I was having a hard time topstitching over the intersecting seams at the crotch. I did what seems to come naturally to me and tried to bull it through. I ended up sewing my finger. I cut myself loose, pulled the threads through my finger, cleaned and bandaged it, the laid down for 15 min. Got up and finished the jeans. At least I didn't bleed on the fabric. A good thing to use for a pusher is a porcupine quill. If you happen to sew over it, it won't wreck anything. And don't sew over pins. Broke a needle that way, and the point went right for my eye. It was the only time I thanked the good Lord for bad eyes and thick glasses.
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Thank you for this! I'm still in my first year of sewing and started out by doing all of these things instinctively, but eventually started do "unlearn" them by watching videos of other not so experienced sewists on yt. I actually kept doing them anyway, but watching those led me to think I only did it because I wasn't skillfull enough and they were just roundabout ways to get to the same result, but today I learned that my instincts were right all along!
As I become more experienced in sewing I realize the importance of taking your time when you start a line of stitching to ensure that any backstitching is minimal and neat! It gives garments a more professional look. Also, fitting and trying on as you go to ensure you don’t have to rip out multiple steps to adjust the fit!
My grandmother always pinned along the stitch line the way that you do. I'd never seen it done any other way until watching someone else's video the other day where she was pinning inwards instead and I decided to try it. It seems that pinning it inwards is way way better for me. It made a huge difference. Pinning it the way you do it (and my grandmother's way) I kept getting frustrated and stabbed making me wonder if I was using too many pins. Doing it the other way makes it a lot easier for me to remove the pins. I still pin it your way for pattern cutting because it makes it easier to cut the shapes correctly, but at the machine, I seem to like the me other way more. I guess it does come down to different preferences.
I also bought quilting pins because I'm working with faux fur and I love them. I didn't think different pins would work differently, but I was wrong. They have these big tabs on the heads that lay flatter than the ones with the round balls on the end. I really don't like those ones because they seem to warp the fabric. I also got the really small pins like my grandmother used, and they work great as well, but using them reminds me of all the surprise pins I found with my toes at grandma's house. Not a pleasant experience. I was showing my daughter how they "magically dissappear" in carpet. She was quite amused. Then she asked about the emery on the pin cushion and has been sharpening all the needles for me... lol
Working with fur, I was very nervous and I saw a few videos recommend the walking foot so I put it on my machine. It seems to work pretty well, but yes it feels very restrictive and I feel like I've been pulling kind of hard fighting the feed dogs on the top to keep the fabric going where I want it to go. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong or it that's how it is supposed to feel when using the walking foot. It is nice that it holds the fabric in place, but I don't like it a whole lot and it seems to make it harder for me to hold things in place. Would you recommend any special feet for faux fur?
Hello Evelyn, very very informative video! like always !
I intuitively understood the importance of handling the fabric during my sewing experiences. I watched carefully (via youtube) the way the seamstresses arranged their hands at the sewing machine.
I reproduced these gestures and, miracle!, The result of the seams was improved so much.
Is it possible to hope for a video on these gestures from you? I'd be glad ! With all my thanks for your wise sharing and your benevolent smile.💐
You've given great advice to beginners. Thankfully my mom had taught me the same things you listed. I don't sew as much as I used to, when I do the design has to be simple and quick. Who doesn't love wearing a new outfit to the office on Monday? My best advice for beginners is start with simple designs, take your time and ask for help if needed. Live your videos.
Thought provoking as always👍
My main constructions tricks for a quality finish are tacking, pressing seams and clipping curves/corners.
I started sewing last christmas and I find it extremely satisfying that I already do all this and it came very natural. I'm one of those people that find peace doing manual "jobs" so I'm really happy I got everything right. Yay! also I have to say that when I was struggling with terms on patterns or things that went wrong I found this channel really useful and Evelyn... you're one of the best teachers!
One of the things I neglected to do as a beginner sewist was to transfer the markings on the pattern to my fabric. I didnt understand how important those markings were until much later. Also making sure to press each seam. I never did this as a beginner but now know how important it is to a successful garment.
You look marvelous in those tiny polka dots and the covered buttons are wonderful. I am just going to be 71. I started sewing three years ago. Most of what I knew came from watching my mother and admiring her hard work, though she was never an expert, she told us the basics. I think I will try a free trial of your school. You certainly make it fun.
before machine sewing, I would also add the extra step of tacking/basting seams by hand after pinning, then removing pins. Yes, I have broken needles while sewing over pins too :)
I smiled when one of your things not to do was sew over pins. When I took home ec in the late 60’s/ early 70’s we were REQUIRED to sew over pins when working in class. One of my friends got into trouble on a regular basis as she had learned to sew from her mother who told her to take out the pins as she went along. The idea was that stopping to take out pins as you worked took too much time. Of course creating homemade rather than handmade-looking items was just fine.
I’ve broken a needle by sewing over it, fortunately I didn’t damage my machine. So listen to Evelyn don’t sew over pins.
Thankyou for the cautionary tale! 😄
Though to be fair, you can break needles sewing over fabric.
Even worse, I've had one go flying before. Ever since I've envisioned one getting in my eye.
@@debbielough7754 Yes, and I've done that. But it's pretty impossible for them to go flying because the top portion is fastened into the machine, and the lower stop has the thread in it, and is below the fabric. It still sucks though, but not as big of a concern.
@@debbielough7754 Happened to me trying to force too much fabric under the foot too quickly. The needle snapped, hit me in the face and then flew off to I know not where. I still haven't found that broken needle shard. I still feel like a pre-beginner. These tips are so helpful to me.
I would add the importance of pressing every seam as you sew it; with steam and press cloth, usually using bursts of steam.
Also, I purchased a wool pressing mat, which is accessible by simply rolling my chair around to an adjoining table, where it rests with the steam iron. No more up and down to the ironing board. Saves a lot of time.
This might be a little more specific than what's expected but:
If you live with someone that uses the same sewing machine, double check settings and needle before continuing a project you paused on and were gone long enough they may have used the machine it may save a project. Especially if you were using easily scarred fabrics. Satin for instance. So just keeping in the habit in general is a good idea.
(This also can go for people with 3d printers about settings and filament it resin)