Thank you so much for explaining the shackle brackets! I got this boat trailer im converting to flatbed and I was looking at the shackle pointed the opposite direction and thought it was wrong but no other video other than yours explained it correctly, gold star for you today, thank you!!
Correct.you can if ya put a plate between the mount and frame and weld the mounts front and back and stitch the plate to the frame .the welds on the mounts will weaken the frame
The rear spring shackle is mounted upside down. There is not enough clearance to weld inside and still have room for the bolt to be easily cleaned in the mount. The cramped area makes it easy for crud and stones to become stuck in the bracket and induce problems with rust.
I purchased one of those cheap POS lowes trailers for a couple hundred bucks brand new (long story, LOL). I want to swap out the axle to a 3500 lb and beef up the frame enough. Your video helped alot. I wasn't sure if the angle iron would be strong enough but it appears it will be (I'm going to add some diagonal pieces to the tongue and more in the center because they are 24 O.C....). After all said and done a $400 trailer will be worth it. Plus it will keep me in the barn and not annoy the wife. LOL
You can use a 110v welder as long as you clean ALL of the weld area first. You would want to make sure you run it hot and having a flux cored wire wouldnt hurt a bit. The dual shielding would benefit you significantly. Multiple passes may be required to keep the higher amperage(110v) machine under duty cycle! I believe it may be around 10%-30% at most at full voltage/amperage. A wire wheel would also really help the overall weld..... Stick welding is SUPERIOR to wire but slows down production.
hey man you're a saint for helping us newbies in such a wonderful way, got a crazy project question, are there any air suspension systems you could recommend for this utility trailer? thanks and awesome work again a million thanks to you
I believe Dexter calls for a cross member at axle mounting locations to strengthen frame mounts to resist torsion twists.i know your keeping it simple but it would be nice to have seen you cope in the cross members.that way the floor us flat and the verticle leg still runs out to the edge.looking good and I'm not being critical just a few things I thought you might have missed
Nice job on documenting your trailer build.I am concerned about your frame fit before tacking and placing of axle mounts.I see that you didn't remove any mill scale before,and you didn't bevel your front cross member joint for proper penetration.I like how you left the verticle fillet to fill up,but your lower leg will be a weaker joint.Especially if you are to grind the weld to kelp your decking flat.
the main rule of thumb on the rear set up, is the leaf spring hole should be 1 bolt hole behind the hanger hole to get a descent support and balance...not 10 degrees not 25 degrees...one hole size back..
Oh Hell Fire I ain't none of critical but yet you going to pull that piece of junk down the highway public Highway at that and I bought being my old Percolator the 99 Kenworth flying down highway that piece of junk you just built as not critical comes apart in front of me in my cat engines runs over the top that she
You are damn right to point out that the spring hangers need a proper weld. I watched a few vids on this subject but nobody points that out. Good job.
Thank you so much for explaining the shackle brackets! I got this boat trailer im converting to flatbed and I was looking at the shackle pointed the opposite direction and thought it was wrong but no other video other than yours explained it correctly, gold star for you today, thank you!!
Nice video but I have seen it is recommended not to weld the front and back on the mounts due to stress only the sides
Correct.you can if ya put a plate between the mount and frame and weld the mounts front and back and stitch the plate to the frame .the welds on the mounts will weaken the frame
The rear spring shackle is mounted upside down. There is not enough clearance to weld inside and still have room for the bolt to be easily cleaned in the mount. The cramped area makes it easy for crud and stones to become stuck in the bracket and induce problems with rust.
Thank you from Indonesia . Great explanation and Great job mate
Appreciate it man a lot of head scratching stoped because of this video
I purchased one of those cheap POS lowes trailers for a couple hundred bucks brand new (long story, LOL). I want to swap out the axle to a 3500 lb and beef up the frame enough. Your video helped alot. I wasn't sure if the angle iron would be strong enough but it appears it will be (I'm going to add some diagonal pieces to the tongue and more in the center because they are 24 O.C....). After all said and done a $400 trailer will be worth it. Plus it will keep me in the barn and not annoy the wife. LOL
You can use a 110v welder as long as you clean ALL of the weld area first. You would want to make sure you run it hot and having a flux cored wire wouldnt hurt a bit. The dual shielding would benefit you significantly. Multiple passes may be required to keep the higher amperage(110v) machine under duty cycle! I believe it may be around 10%-30% at most at full voltage/amperage. A wire wheel would also really help the overall weld..... Stick welding is SUPERIOR to wire but slows down production.
hey man you're a saint for helping us newbies in such a wonderful way, got a crazy project question, are there any air suspension systems you could recommend for this utility trailer? thanks and awesome work again a million thanks to you
I believe Dexter calls for a cross member at axle mounting locations to strengthen frame mounts to resist torsion twists.i know your keeping it simple but it would be nice to have seen you cope in the cross members.that way the floor us flat and the verticle leg still runs out to the edge.looking good and I'm not being critical just a few things I thought you might have missed
Thanks! This cleared up the rear shackle question I had for replacing my axle and mounts
A trick: you can watch movies at Flixzone. Been using them for watching lots of of movies lately.
@Robert Valentino yup, been using flixzone for months myself :D
can you bolt the shackles on the frame?
are the shackles necessary on a small utility trailer?
what welder did you use ? could i use a 110volt to build a trailer?
great job , clear and precise.
Thanks Adam Barker for the website they have everything
Your rear hanger is sideways. Should be installed like you have the front one
Nice job on documenting your trailer build.I am concerned about your frame fit before tacking and placing of axle mounts.I see that you didn't remove any mill scale before,and you didn't bevel your front cross member joint for proper penetration.I like how you left the verticle fillet to fill up,but your lower leg will be a weaker joint.Especially if you are to grind the weld to kelp your decking flat.
Further forward with the rear bracket. Should be 1 hole distance difference.
awesome trailer build... the bow in the axle, do you want it facing the sky or the ground?
the kink in the axle points to the sky
Excuse me sir, how the final position of the axle is calculated with respect to the structure of the trailer?
the main rule of thumb on the rear set up, is the leaf spring hole should be 1 bolt hole behind the hanger hole to get a descent support and balance...not 10 degrees not 25 degrees...one hole size back..
YOUNG MAN , SINGLE AXLE OR TANDEM TRAILER NEED : " WRAP TONGUE " , WILL MAKE ANY TRAILER STRONGER ! .
THANK U
HAPPY NEW YEAR 2016
thanks for this video,,, I have a question Where did you buy the Axle? did it come with the leaf Springs?
If you need parts for this at wholesale price check out www.trailerrvparts.com they have tons and i mean tons of stock for your DYI projects
what happens when your frame is aluminum and the brackets are steel?
You’re F’d!
Make new ones with ally or build a steel structure bolt that the chassis,then weld hangers to that.
@@thumpergman thats what I ended up doing; Welded the spring rockers to steel angle iron, then bolted them to the aluminum frame.
@@M3231-s3v great stuff mate
How many pound Support this trailer? Thanks
i`d like to see the side rails a little beefier.
Not sure about any air suspension.
Your pdf plans dont open
I used a stick welder. I would not recommend a 110 volt welder.
excuse me but if u dont use at least a mig pack 180 off lincoln for an exemple then dont make trailer
great video. thanks for making it
I really liked this video as well. It will be a good reference if I ever need to do something like this with my everlast welder in the future. Thanks.
Not getting any sound to the video
Thanks
why don't you respond to comments?
If I were you I would put the axel underneath the leaf springs
you put the axle on the wrong side of the springs
Many trailers have it that way to make them lower such as boat trailers or - I would assume - car trailers. For loading/unloading
As long as the natural bend of the axle is up you have the springs on the right side
No, Tom is right.... his axle is pinned against the surface of the frame lol there is no suspension as it sits there right now lolol
and you are right aswell...there are 2 methods for installing springs..overslung or underslung providing you have the clearance...he does not lol
At what point in the video do you see it pinned against the frame?
🚘🚘👍😎👍🚘🚘
3500 pounds.
Bla bla bla bla
Too much dog's sound!!!
boring
Oh Hell Fire I ain't none of critical but yet you going to pull that piece of junk down the highway public Highway at that and I bought being my old Percolator the 99 Kenworth flying down highway that piece of junk you just built as not critical comes apart in front of me in my cat engines runs over the top that she