Done my first wall down stairs this week with the clip to frame and my wife seems impressed she said it's gone from a clear conversation from nextdoor down to a very very faint whisper and we can no longer hear nextdoors toilet flush, when everyone is being quite, the harddrive in the sky q box is now the dominant noise in the room ,just upstairs to start tomorrow I'm extremely pleased with the results so far.
Hi adrian heritage, great to hear you are extremely pleased with the ReductoClip™ system and that it has made such a difference to the noise problems you were previously experiencing.
just a quick update 3 walls done 2 with frame. 1 clip to wall it's been up about 3months now really good results no complaints so easy to do it's made a massive improvement on all walls I will be ordering enough for 3 more walls very soon thanks .
@@jonesconrad1 Hi Conrad I've done done two more walls one today actually,with the Tec soundboard 4 really quick and effective reduced an awful lot of noise from next door soundproofing store are really helpful and very good to deal with it's a lot cheaper than moving that's for sure and all systems are easy to install. I've done 2 with a stud and reduction clip one with clip to wall and 2 with soundboard 4 all with better than expected results.
We used this firm and this system its absolutely amazing, worth every penny, Phil and the team are so friendly and helpful, I would highly recommend them
I’ve used this system on 3 party walls in the same house on a 3x2 stud with 75mm rock wool in the stud. It works extremely well. We’re going back in April to use the direct to wall version as shown here in a bedroom where space is of a premium. It’s a brilliant system, probably going to do my own bedroom with it. Plasterer/multi trader.
Hi Rich. I live in a duplex with a solid concrete wall with plasterboard stuck on in between neighbour. When they play music, I can hear it. Will this system stop music coming through? Using the same set up you did with 3x2 plus acoustic insulation. Thanks
Hi@@jennymeade7429 for loud barking dogs we'd point you in the direction of the ReductoClip Independent Wall system: th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Hi soundproofing store , I installed your product today for the first time on a customers house, approximately 12sqm, what an absolute dream to install, we slid the anchors over the furrings, pilot and plugged the middle one and levelled it . The hardest part was lifting the tecsound supremo adhesive matt high up to stick to the wall, that is HEAVY!!!!. Back tomorrow to plaster it . Really impressed with the product.
Hi Tony, thanks for the nice comment. It is pretty straight forward to install. The trick with the TecSound is to cut it into smaller more manageable pieces. Rather than trying to get large pieces on in one go. Glad you are enjoying the system!
Soundproofing Store hi yes we were doing approximately 1.5sqm but it’s heavy stuff. If you ever need any installers drop me an email s-w-p@live.co.uk south Woodham Plastering/ Checkatrade. Cheers
Great stuff. Was put off with a terrace due to experience with where I currently live and neighbours mounting sound systems to shared walls. This looks like it could at least take the edge off.
Hi @andrew2272kag, great to hear your feedback. For an even higher performance against extreme noise e.g. loud music, heavy bass, or just wanting to achieve the highest possible sound reduction, the ReductoClip Independent System might also be of interest.. th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
just placed an order this looks the most advanced system i have come accross, the only difference is i glued one peice of 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard to the wall already i know this is added wasted space but i think the overall effect will be worth it,
Hi Nigel, Great to hear you've purchased the ReductoClip system. Just wanted to check the 12.5mm plasterboard. Was this adhered so it was completely flat against the wall or was there a gap behind the board at all? Just wanted to check because there is good reason why we don't recommend this as standard.
@@SoundproofingStore i used plasterboard foam to stick it directly to party wall then am going to build a floating stud wall 10 to 15 mm away from that
Looks like a great system and the one I will probably use, one of my walls is just like the one in the clip, I assumed I would need to do the front of the chimney also, is this not the case ?
Hi @stevetruby8865, in the majority of cases it's only the alcoves which need soundproofing. This is because the chimney usually has more mass and often a double layer of fire bricks making it harder for airborne sound to travel through. Next time you hear the unwanted noise, do a simple ear test against the alcoves and the chimney and compare the difference. If you can hear the noise coming through the chimney, then it would be advisable to soundproof this too. This blog might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney If you need any help or advice with this, please feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 and we will gladly discuss it with you.
I mist certainly need to have this type of soundproofing, as recently moved into an old property that's partitioned, I'm in a ground floor street property, the partition where stairs go up the the rest of whole house above is awful it really is. Desperately needs sorting. Glad I've watched how to, as will now get one of my bros to help out.. Amazing job guys. 👏
Stud wall. Fill the spaces with rockwool. Plasterboard then tecsound membrane. Plasterboard then skim. It really is as easy as that. Worked a treat in my house👍👍.
Hi Lazylad, that would do a good job, but it also takes up more space. So you have to have options that will still offer a good performance but taking up less space. This is where the ReductoClip system comes in. This full build up is only 60mm.
Great video very informative & very well laided out i.e step by step instructions,how would you go about fitting around existing plug sockets in walls if sound proofing is needed? Would wall sockets have to be moved to an adjoining wall?
Hi Red Dragons. Thank you for the kind comments. Regarding sockets, you can't just soundproof around the existing sockets as this will be a big weakness, you need to bring the sockets forward to the front of the new soundproof layers. In a perfect world make a very small hole in the soundproofing to pull the wiring through, seal around with acoustic sealant, then surface mount your sockets onto the face of the wall instead of recessing. This way you aren't taking away soundproofing and filling the hole with a piece of plastic! If you don't like the look of surface mounted sockets and want them recessed then to at least minimise the weakness, install some acoustic putty pads in the back of the socket - soundproofingstore.uk/product/acoustic-socket-putty-pads/
Hi @MrSamuelatkinson1 - This is a question we get asked a lot, it's a good question and we should maybe have gone into more detail in the video. Most people think the insulation should cover the whole wall because they mis understand what it is there for. Mineral wool insulation doesn't actually block any sound, it's not there to create a barrier (unlike the plasterboard and TecSound layers). It's there because we have created a hollow cavity between the plasterboard and the original wall. If this is left hollow, sound will bounce around and echo and amplify. To stop this from happening you need some absorbing material in the cavity. You don't need to completely fill the cavity, you just need a reasonable amount to stop the sound bouncing around. A good example is when you decorate a room and you take the carpets and curtains and sofas etc out. The room suddenly sounds much more echoey because the soft materials have been removed. When you put them back in again the echo goes away. But you didn't completely fill the room from floor to ceiling with soft material. Hope that makes sense.
Hi @garrywait-smith9532, if it's a plastered wall, then fine to directly attach the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System. However, if there is also a layer of plasterboard, then the recommendation would be to remove this first. Here are a few more videos you might find useful: th-cam.com/video/huNDsYKLpqo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system The ReductoClip Independent Wall System may also be of interest: th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Hi sebastian todea, there is no need to cover the entire wall in insulation. Insulation does not block sound, it is not soundproofing. The heavy layers of mass that we add on top is there to block the sound. Insulation is only there for one purpose. If there is a hollow cavity and sound gets inside it, the sound will bounce around and resonate and amplify. We just need enough insulation in that cavity to absorb the sound and stop it from resonating. It's like when you decorate a room and take out all the soft furniture and carpets and curtains, the room then has an echo. Put the carpets and curtains and sofa back in the room and it stops the echo. You don't need to fill the entire space of the room, you just need enough to absorb the echo. Plus, if we butt insulation up against the furring channels and clips, it could hinder the movement of the clips, reducing their effectiveness.
Hi Billy Bob, it took a day and a half to do both alcoves in the video. However, this included more stop-starts because of the filming, than there would be ordinarily.
Brilliant video! I'm hoping you could help with a couple of queries please. In our house (a 1930 semi), the party wall to our bedroom has a chimney breast. The fireplace has been removed, and all that remains is a vent in the wall. We hear a high pitched noise from the water being pulled to the neighbours boiler everytime they use their hot water. The water pipes run in the floor parallel to the party wall to their boiler which is fixed to the party wall. We can also hear coughing, etc. The floor joists run parallel to the party wall. A couple of questions. 1. Should the system extend down past the floor boards to just above the ceiling below, to prevent the noise from the pipes bridging through? 2. Does the chimney breast need covering, and if so, what is the construction detail for the external corners? Many thanks.
Hi Fraserboo Bo, great that you found the video useful. Due to there being a weakness in the chimney breast, it would certainly be best to address this area as well as the alcoves. Please take a look at this blog which details how to soundproof round the chimney breast using ReductoClips: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-against-awkward-areas You can certainly extend the system further down past the floor, although this can be quite fiddly to do. The recommendation would be to soundproof the wall to the floor, add acoustic mineral wool in between the joists in the floor and then depending on the improvement this has made, you could also look at soundproofing the floor. Take a look at our SoundMat 3 Plus for a carpet final floor finish, or the Reverso SoundMat if your final floor finish is a hard floor finish: th-cam.com/video/S9ZhiDRTPds/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/N_uOq6V7j_M/w-d-xo.html It is also worth taking a look at our ReductoClip Independent Wall System which will give you an even higher performance against the unwanted noise you are experiencing (if needed): th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system This is all quite tricky to answer via TH-cam, so please do feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and a member of the team will be more than happy to discuss your situation in more detail and advise on the best solution.
My DIY skills are pretty much non existent. Quite surprised to find out that you guys don’t install it as well. That would be great if you did! Do you have a list of approved installers?
Hi Rich F, the systems are all designed as a DIY installation, and are supplied with step by step installation guides and videos of the installation. Our expert team are also on hand to answer any questions. For those customers who don't feel confident installing it themselves, then they simply use a local tradesperson. (Anyone with experience of fitting plasterboard will find it simple to install). Our advice would be to find a local tradesperson and we will happily speak to them directly. However, we do have installers who regularly install our systems and if you give us a call on 01423 206208, or e-mail sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk with your postcode, we can let you know if there is anyone local to yourself. Doing it this way is much more cost effective for customers than a supply and fit service. Further information on installation can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/installation
This sounds (no pun intended) like the most well thought out system for reducing noise through a common wall. We have a place that is known as a duplex, and the common wall filters nothing. It’s old, so it is lath and plaster. I think the optimum solution would be to remove the existing lath and plaster so that we are at the studs, and then go with this process, but would need obviously a starting surface to attach everything to. That starting surface would best be a thick piece of dry wall, correct? Interior losses would be 60mm-a bit over 2.3 inches for us Yanks. The good news story is that you’re only going to have to do that to one side, correct? Good work!
Hi Edgy00, as you say - remove the lath and plaster to the stud frame there. Fill the frame with acoustic mineral wool, then fix the clips straight onto the stud frame. There is no need for a surface layer before installing the system. In fact adding a surface layer will reduce results in his case. All the solid surfaces should be attached at the end onto the ReductoClips not before.
Thanks for the videos. Learning loads! Is it worth putting acoustic sealant in the 5mm gap perimeter of the first layer of plasterboard as well as the final layer? Thanks
Hi Matthew Hunt, great to hear you are finding the videos useful. Some people choose to seal both the first and second layers, (as an extra precaution). However, as long as the second layer is sealed correctly there will be minimal benefit in doing both.
This is a great looking system! I am trying to find the best way to build a sound proof booth for my home studio, but I am limited for space. Approx 1.2m x 2m is what I'm working with, do you have any specific studio systems or do you think the Reductoclip would be applicable?
Hi Carrot, you would need the ReductoClip™ Independent wall system for your sound both: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system this studio page may also be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing if you have any questions, feel free to drop the studio team a message at: sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk or call them on 01423 206208.
Really interested in the product but wondering about the chimney breast. Can i cover over that too? Sometimes i think the sound is coming through the chimney 😅. Great video BTW 👍🏼
Hi jonkajs, great to hear you enjoyed the video. Yes, you absolutely can. Next time you can hear the unwanted noise, (if you haven't already) - put your ear to the alcoves and do the same on the chimney breast and it will give you a good indication of how much noise is coming through the chimney. These articles might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-against-awkward-areas www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney If we can help further, please don't hesitate to call us on (01423) 206208.
@@SoundproofingStore cheers for the quick reply. Interesting alright i will have to give it a go. Just one other question.. If you drill into the sound proofing board to hang a picture or tv. Does that allow the sound to travel through at that point then
@@jonkajs Yes, you can drill into the soundproofing to hang pictures. We recommend using acoustic sealant to fill in any gaps and for heavy items such as TV's then more secure fixings may be required. (Please see below): www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-install-a-tv-or-radiator-onto-the-reductoclip-systems
Very interested in buying these clips.. im looking to soundproof my bedroom ceiling which is solid concrete. We can hear everything from upstairs, voices,music,tv etc.. Just wondering how you build a timber stud frame off the ceiling. I have atleast 50-100mm space i can use. Drop level.
Hi Thanks for your comment. With that space you won't be able to do completely de-coupled ceiling joists, but for concrete we would usually fix 50mm timber battens to the concrete (using concrete fixings), add your mineral wool between the battens, then fix the clips to the battens with timber screws. There is an installation guide for concrete ceilings whic you can find here - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-ceiling-system-concrete-with-timber-batten
I've got a difficult question to answer. When I'm in the bedroom upstairs and noise is emanating from the property next door, sometimes it is coming from their adjoining bedroom and sometimes from the room directly below their bedroom. If it is coming from their downstairs room would insulation between my and their bedroom be enough to block the noise? (Properties have solid walls with wooden floorboards).
Hi Michael Stokes, when you are in your bedroom and you can hear the noise coming from the room directly below their bedroom, is it coming through your wall or floor? Next time you can hear them in that room, do an ear test on your wall and floor. Also, is there a chimney breast? Feel free to call us on 01423 206208 and we can discuss this in more detail with you. It might be that you need to soundproof your upstairs and downstairs party wall.
Good question and thanks for the superfast reply. I can't say for sure whether the noise was coming from the wall or the floor since I only put my ear to the wall and it was loud. When I went downstairs it was louder but since I don't sleep there it's not as bothersome. The noisy tenants have now moved on so until the new ones move in I can't really say. (There is no chimney breast).@@SoundproofingStore
Hi thanks for the video, Would you be able to hang a cabinet or a big frame in the new sound proof wall? If so, would go attached into the channels or the partywall itself? Thanks
Hi Francesc Donaire - Thank you for the message. Yes you can hang cabinets and frames etc to the wall. You want to attach it to the soundproofing system though, do not fix all the way thorugh into the wall itself, this will "short circuit" or "bridge" the system affecting results. Either fix things into the furring channels using self drilling screws or if you don't have a furring channel at the location you need to fix, then fix into the plasterboard layers using appropriate plasterboard fixings.
Great looking system! Am I correct in thinking that if you strip a (semi detached) adjoining wall back to the bricks then install this system that you would not lose any space? If not, could you confirm how much extra space this would take up compared to original finished wall? Thanks.
Hi @Nabeel Kubba - This system takes up 60mm of space including the clips, furring channels, TecSound and plasterboard layers. So it depends on the thickness of the current build up. If you just have a dot and dabbed plasterboard, this will will probably only be around 20 - 25mm. But the ReductoClip system installed direct to wall is certainly very, very thin for such a high performing system.
@@nabeelkubba1305 Its very difficult to know. There could b some sort of frame, or just battons on the wall, or dot and dab. Even if it wasn't dot and dabbed when it was built, you don't know if another previous owner has done it etc. Unless you start cutting holes into it, its all guess work.
How effective is this system against impact noise? Our main issue is we can hear footsteps down the side of our house. Ideally we would use the timber frame but not sure we can afford to lose that much space.
Hi @ReeseBayley, as you mention, decoupling the soundproofing from the wall using the ReductoClip Independent Solution would give you the highest performance against impact noise. (The ReductoClip System is the slimmest system on the market). However, where the 120mm space loss isn't feasible, then the next best option would be the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System (60mm). This is a hugely popular solution because of its performance v's space loss. Please feel fee to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can always discuss this with you in more detail.
I want to use one layer of prosound soundboard 4. Twice as thick (with vinyl and foam layers) as the standard acoustic plasterboard but hope that still works
Hi @Muzik_Junkie, our ProSound SoundBoard 4 is an excellent solution for lightweight stud walls. For brick walls (which already have more mass) the recommendation would be to use the ReductoClip System. Please do feel free to contact us and we can discuss your unwanted noise issue in more detail and advise accordingly (01423) 206208. This video might be of interest: th-cam.com/video/huNDsYKLpqo/w-d-xo.html
Hi @ghesoonkarim602, please see below the installation guide for the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System: irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Direct%20To%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf There is a positioning diagram for the clips and furring channels (showing the spacings) which can be found on page 5. You mention studs, is this on an existing stud wall, or are you building an independent stud frame in front of an existing wall? If needed - please also find the Installation guide for the ReductoClip Independent Wall System: irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Independent%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf
Great video.I have a question. : Can this be installed straight over a large lath and plaster victorian ceiling without ripping the ceiling back to the joists? Im guessing it is one hell of an undertaking for a large ceiling even for specialists? Thanks
Hi Joey S, you can absolutely use the ReductoClips as part of a ceiling system, please see below: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings th-cam.com/video/eQCRUpacDo0/w-d-xo.html Our recommendation would be to remove the ceiling and add mineral wool between the timber joists and then rebuild (as per the build up detailed on the link above). However, you can install the system through the lath and plaster and into the existing joists, (but the greater improvement would be had by removing the existing ceiling). Any questions at all, please feel free to call us on 01423 206208.
Hi @andreawilliams8471 Yes this system will help with impact noise but how much depends on the frequency of the sound. Banging door sounds tend to be low pitch, therefore you will get a much better reduction from our Independent ReductoClip System - th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
Should have stuck the felt on the whole wall then put your fixings on make it more sound proof. Metal helps sound travel. Even screws in brick work can transfer sound, gluing would help more...
Hi Charles Clifford, the 'felt' is acoustic mineral wool. This is to absorb sound resonating in the space between the plasterboard and the wall, not for soundproofing - therefore the whole wall doesn't need covering. The ReductoClips being used are isolation clips, with the rubber element of the clip touching the wall. This decouples the soundproofing from the original wall so when the soundwaves hit the wall, the wall can ride out that energy vibration. At no point is there any metal touching the party wall. With regards to gluing, effective soundproofing involves adding (different layers of) high mass materials to help block airborne noise. Anything you can simply glue to the wall won't be heavy enough, or contain enough mass to soundproof the wall.
Hi The Prodigal714, I'm afraid we don't ship to America. However, the current cost to do both of these alcoves would be £1,220 which includes VAT and delivery. (It doesn't include installation and the customer installs it himself with the help of a friend in the video).
Hi Alex, do an ear test when you next hear your neighbours being noisy by putting your ear to the chimney breast and comparing it to the noise you can hear when you do the same on the alcoves. This is a useful article explaining why 9 times out of 10 the chimney doesn't usually need soundproofing, but also details exceptions when it does and if so, the most effective ways to soundproof it: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
How effective is this system on a day to day basis in a regular household? We live in a two bedroom semi detached that was built in the 70’s. The walls are quite thin and we hear pretty much everything from our neighbours and vice versa. The noise is mainly in the evenings, with really loud laughing and talking which causes a nuisance as we have young children. Would just doing the ‘party walls’ and the upstairs walls be sufficient, or would we need to look at getting the chimney breast and the under floor upstairs soundproofed? I’ve read a couple of reviews that claim that this kind of system isn’t all that effective, so was just curious as to how yours performs. Also, what is the cost per square metre of the system installed? The downstairs alcoves aren’t that big, maybe a plasterboard big, but the kitchen wall and the upstairs walls are bigger. Thanks again.
Hi Rich F, the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System is extremely effective at blocking the noises you have described. However, for an even higher performing system, take a look at the ReductoClip Independent Wall System (please see below link). With regards to the chimney, usually it is only the alcoves which need soundproofing. However, do an ear test on the chimney when you can hear the noise and compare it to the noise coming through the alcoves. With regards to the floor, you can always add acoustic insulation to the first few rows of the empty joists, or 1.2m in from the wall to help with any flanking noise. There is quite a lot to cover off here, so our advice would be to call us on 01423 206208 so we can talk though your situation in more detail and advise you accordingly. If you have the dimensions of the wall(s) to hand when you call, we can also price the system for you. th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
Can you not double up on this, I know you did two layers of acoustic plaster board, but can you do a stud wall, then the wool, then a layer of plaster board and repeat that process again surely that would make it even more soundproof?
Hi Bhavesh, as we explained at the start, we would normally recommend to install this system onto a stud frame, de-coupled from the wall but this customer wanted to keep space loss to a minimum. So we installed direct to the wall. If you wanted to build a stud wall, then the ReductoClip system, then a gap, then another stud wall, then the ReductoClip system again.... yes this would be very high performing, but it would also take up a minimum of 240mm (using 50mm stud work). So very few people would want to lose that much space. It also depends on the level of the noise you are trying to block out. The initial system blocks 65dB on average which is already extremely high (on one stud frame). This would block out most peoples noise problem already. So you would potentially double your cost and double your space loss for no extra gain. Soundproofing is a little like "how long is a piece of string", you could install 10 ReductoClip systems back to back and it would technically be brilliant. But would you have actually gained any extra benefit from one?
Soundproofing Store thank you for your response, I wasn’t trying to bring any criticism or negativity your way, and I was thinking more as I want to build a music studio in my back garden! Yes I keep forgetting about space it would take up! Sorry should have posted on this on the music studio build page! That ReductoClip system is very clever!
@@bhaveshsolanki6485 Hi Bhavesh, no offense or negativity taken at all. Just trying to explain why we wouldn't normally do that as best I can. So yes, if you want to go further and get even better results there are better ways or thinner ways to upgrade the system than doubling the entire system up. If you want to talk with us about your studio project, get in touch through the website. Our specialist studio team can talk you through options and help you with the soundproofing design.
Hi Jonathan Mcrae, it depends on what type of noise you are trying to block and where. e.g. is it being heard through a wall, floor or ceiling (or a combination)? If a wall, then our highest performing solution is the ReductoClip Independent Wall System: th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system Please do call us on 01423 206208 so we can discuss your noise issue with you in more detail and advise on the correct soundproofing solution. For a quote, we'd need to know the dimensions of your wall. Please see the below quote form: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/get-a-quote#Wallquote
How much sound proofing do you loose when not using a wooden frame and clipping straight to the brick wall ? Also our house is one of the constant pour concrete homes thrown up in the 1940s , would this system work on concrete homes ?
Hi CM 17, the ReductoClip Independent System (with the stud frame) will give the highest performance, especially against lower bass frequencies as it is completely decoupled from the original structure. The ReductoClip Direct to Wall will still give a good improvement and is a good compromise for customers who can't lose 120mm from their original wall due to door openings etc. It very much depends on the type of noise and levels of noise that you are trying to soundproof against. Our recommendation would be to give us a call on (01423) 206208 and we can advise further.
Would the newly soundproofed wall be able to support the weight of shelves? We currently have bookshelves in our alcoves, just wondering if we could put these back on, or would the walls have to remain bare afterwards?
Hi Martyn John - Thanks for the question. It depends how much weight will be getting added. The clips do have a maximum weight capacity, although it is very high, it's already carrying the weight of the soundproofing. Adding things like pictures, mirrors etc isn't an issue but multiple book shelves could end up taking up a lot of weight. One thing you can do is increase the amount of ReductoClips you use, install them at closer spacings, that increases the weight capacity of the wall. Or use a free standing shelving unit in front of the wall.
This seems like one of the most effective systems I've seen. Still, if it was up to me, I would have designed the system with an elastic interface between the ReductoClips and the metal profiles. This would reduce the possibility of a rattling sound in certain conditions or sound waves.
Hi TheCubicPlanet, the Reducto furring bars clip in tightly to the ReductoClips and we've never had any instances of rattling. There is also the large amount of mass added to the system which coupled with the resilience of the ReductoClips is there to help reduce all noise types from low pitch to high pitch frequencies, so there certainly wouldn't be any rattling sounds heard from the system.
Hi lee white, you will definitely still need the second layer of acoustic plasterboard as this is an important part of the full system. The wooden 'decorative' layer wouldn't be a substitute for the (important) extra mass the second layer of acoustic plasterboard adds. With regards to the wooden panels, we can also help with this if needed: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/Acoustic-Timber-Slatted-Panels
Hi Tim Fay, ideally removing plug sockets and moving them to a different wall would be the preferred option. However, if this isn't possible, then fit the soundproofing across the whole wall, make a small hole, pull the cable for the socket through and then fill with acoustic sealant. Refitting the socket as a surface mounted socket. The last and least preferred option is to fit the soundproofing around the socket and fit a socket putty pad in the back box of the socket. With regards to shelving, you can fit shelves as long as they are attached through the furring bar and there are enough clips to support the weight. This blog explains it in more detail: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-install-a-tv-or-radiator-onto-the-reductoclip-systems
With all that weight hanging on wall screws is it possibly to tile on top of the whole lot when it's done. I can't see wall screws coping with all that weight, plasterboard, heavy rubber, tiles etc
The system is designed and secured with correct fixings so any final wall finish is suitable. We have many customers install the system on a kitchen wall and tile as a final finish.
Hi @stevekettel188, absolutely, but the recommendation would be to remove the plasterboard first. Another popular choice for attic conversions is the SoundBoard4 which is a direct to wall soundproofing panel. More information can be found here: th-cam.com/video/FqG0F4In74c/w-d-xo.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundboard-4 It really depends on the level and type of noise you are trying to soundproof against. Feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 and we will happily advise on the correct system for your situation.
Hi @SakataSamig, this will certainly help if the impact vibration from them running and slamming doors is coming through the walls. The recommendation would be to use the ReductoClip Independent Wall System which fully decouples from the offending wall. More info can be found here: th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system Please feel free to call us and we can discuss your noise issue in more detail and advise on the best solution (01423) 206208.
I have 2 alcoves in my Semi detached house that I am considering doing this with. I am limited to space but would like to use this system on a frame. As its an old house the plaster is very thick is I'm considering removing the plaster to brick and starting from there (bare brick wall), my question is - will the mass loss from the plaster be greater than the mass gained using this on a frame as opposed to just doing direct to wall???? Hope this makes sense!
Hi matthew rose, the higher performing system will be the ReductoClip Independent system on a frame and will give you a much higher result even with the plaster removed. Details of this system can be found here: th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system Space loss for this system is only 120mm. If you can afford to lose this space with the plaster on, then our advice would be to leave it on. However, as mentioned, removing the plaster and doing the independent system will be higher performing than the direct to wall with the plaster.
If I don’t use ReductoClips and just use mass loaded vinyl, green glue, and a 5/8 inch of QuietRock dry wall over my existing wall, will that be enough to significantly reduce impact noises from the neighbor I share a wall with? Or are the ReductoClips absolutely necessary to achieve this?
Hi @lemoine.music1, without the ReductoClips there is limited damping to help absorb the impact noises and vibration energy coming from your neighbours. In an ideal world you'd need to isolate (or decouple) from your original wall using the ReductoClip Independent Wall System as this creates a physical gap making it much harder for the sound to travel through the offending wall. These videos might be of interest: 1. ReductoClip, highest level of soundproofing for walls & ceilings: th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html 2. Does Green Glue work for soundproofing: th-cam.com/video/DJFhAk5Sg6E/w-d-xo.html 3. How to soundproof a wall with the ReductoClip Independent Wall System: th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
So wall one side of the chimney breast - and then the other side - but how would you deal with the chimney breast itself? We have two rooms, both with large chimney breasts - and while the system looks great, if noise still comes through the 'un-proofed' sections it would be a waste of time, money and effort?
Hi M K Kelly, the customer in the video didn't want to soundproof the chimney in this instance and even without doing so, the ReductoClip System made a big difference to the noise they were experiencing before the soundproofing and the improvement after doing the alcoves: th-cam.com/video/VqHEVcBZt6M/w-d-xo.html In the majority of cases the chimney breast doesn't need soundproofing as it has much more mass than the alcoves (often a double layer of firebricks) and therefore naturally helps to block more noise. We would always recommend doing an ear test when you can hear the unwanted noise and listen to the noise coming through the alcoves and also the chimney and compare the difference. If you can hear noise coming through the chimney, then you will need to treat the chimney breast too: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
I notice that the squares/rectangles of Rockwool that have been stuck to the wall between the resilient bars aren't filling the whole space between the bars. Why is that? Is it beneficial to fill the whole space or not?
Hi Marge, this is a common question and it comes from a slight misunderstanding of the use of mineral wool. Mineral wool doesn't soundproof, it isn't there to create a barrier to block sound. That is what the plasterboard and TecSound is there for. Mineral wool is only there because if you have an empty cavity (like that between the wall and plasterboard), sound will resonate and amplify in there. By having a decent amount of absorbing material in that cavity it stops the sound from resonating. You don't need to fill the space, it just needs to be a decent amount. Its similar to when you decorate a room and you take out all the soft furnishings, the room has more echo. When you put the soft furnishings back in, the echo goes away. But you've not filled the entire room from floor to ceiling with soft furnishings. You've just got a decent amount in there Hope that makes sense.
Is that second layer of plasterboard not on the same horizontal joint as the first layer? surely if you staggered the vertical joint you should also do the same horizontally .
Hi phoebe Andia, due to the Tecsound layer in the middle there is no continuous seam. In an ideal world, yes, however, the practicality of lifting a very heavy platerboard layer up into a top corner isn't the easiest and with the benefits being negligible.
Hi, would this system be just as affective against a joining wall that's been dot and dabbed and plastered or would we need to remove the plasterboard and go back to the block?
Hi ScottieAFC _ yes, we would advise for any dot and dab to be removed prior to installation. This blog goes into more detail about why: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/why-is-dot-and-dab-plasterboard-bad-for-soundproofing
@@SoundproofingStore awesome, ive made contact with you online, you've responded with a quote. Thank you, I'll give you a call if my discussion with NHBC leads to nothing.
I am about to order my product after i have remeasured again. 60mm of loss is one of the thinnest solutions i have been. I do have a question you guys might be able tot answer. The wall i am gonna install it on is a cavity wall shared with the neighbours. Do you think it will be worth to install wooly insulation into thé cavity wall?
Hi It is almost imposable to get access to this void area to insert mineral wool and in most cases this void is there to help the property breath so it should not be filled. any questions please call us on 01423 206208
Hi Guy Willoughby - Yes just finish like any other plasterboard wall. A plaster skim would be perfect to cover up screw heads and seems, a thick lining paper should also do the job if needs be, but a skim is ideal.
The screws for the second plaster board what size are you using, and do the self tap into the bar as well? Also do you do lager clips as i have 50 mm insulation, or is there a way around this,
Hi The Mad Dogs BTD, 25mm screws for the first layer and 50mm for the second layer and yes, they are self drilling screws. You'd need to use 25mm Insulation with the ReductoClip™ Direct to Wall system. The only instance whereby you could use the 50mm insulation, would be if you were installing the ReductoClip™ Independent System: th-cam.com/video/4VpNzFYkA9M/w-d-xo.html
Hello im a bit limited for space in my lounge (most effected room) and was wondering if i did the system in the video what level of noise reduction would i get as oposed to building the stud wall 1st ?
Hi @elliottwaterson5785, please find below the links to the performance figures for both systems: irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Independent%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Direct%20To%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf It really depends on the level and type of noise you are trying to soundproof against. The ReductoClip Independent system will always provide the highest level of soundproofing due to fully decoupling the soundproofing layers, making it much more difficult for sound to travel through. However, the ReductoClip Direct to Wall system is an excellent choice when space constraints are an issue but a high performing solution is still required. Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can discuss the noise(s) you are trying to block and advise accordingly.
Based on a 4m x 2.4m wall it works out at approx £72 + vat per Sqm. If you contact the store we can put an estimate together for your own wall dimensions.
Hi adrian heritage, it's really down to personal choice. (We don't recommend either way). The ReductoClip™ can be fixed through the dot and dab using long enough screws, or it can be removed and the ReductoClip installed onto the brick. It won't make a difference either way.
Can this be used on ceilings? If so might be worth a video! I'm looking to insulate my flat from the neighbour above - would make a great video if you need a casestudy!
Hi Augerman, absolutely, the ReductoClip system can be used on ceilings. Take a look here for more details: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings
@@SoundproofingStore what about adding the reducto layer on top of existing aster board, exactly as you did here, to save some space and also in the case landlord forbids demolition.
Hi Miklos Forgolányi , because the Tecsound is a soft material and doesn't aid the transfer of sound energy, it is fine to touch the walls and ceiling.
What's the likelihood if I just insulated the alcoves that I get just as much noise from chimney stack/floor/ceiling and therefore have wasted my money? I can hear Ring alerts, loud yawns and some conversations next door. If they play music I might as well be in the same room.
Hi GameOverFool, if the unwanted noise is coming through the party wall, in the majority of cases the chimney breast doesn't need soundproofing as it already contains more mass than the alcoves and is therefore naturally more effective at blocking noise. Usually chimney breasts feature a double layer of fire bricks which are far heavier and more dense than standard bricks. An easy way to check this would be to do a simple ear test to the alcoves and chimney when you can hear the noise and compare the difference. If you need to soundproof the chimney breast then you can also do this. This article might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
Just a quick question.. on your website you note a 65db reduction in sound overall. But on most of the examples on your channel, you only note a 15db reduction. Is there a reason for this please ?
Hi Jack H - Great question. The 65dB reduction is for our Independent ReductoClip system. The direct to wall system as used in this video is 55dB. This is the total reduction from one side of the wall to the other, in other words, that includes the wall as well. The 15dB is the improvement by adding the soundproofing to the wall. In other words, on an average brick party wall that would be reducing around 40dB to start with, this system will improve the performance by roughly 15dB so the total reduction is now 55dB. The Independent system has an average improvement of more like 25dB, getting a 40dB wall to 65dB total reduction. Hope that makes sense.
Hi David, the system is relatively straight forward to install, we do say a competent DIYer should be perfectly capable. If not, just a local tradesman with drywall / joinery type skills is all that is needed. They don't need to be experienced soundproofing installers as the installing skills involved are basic trade skills. We don't have our own installation teams.
Hi Migniel Doll, yes this system certainly reduces impact noises, aslong as the impact noise is definitely travelling through the wall and not leaking in through your floor.
After you've skimmed a wall that has movement in it, will there not be cracks around the perimeter of the soundproofed wall? Or do you recommend maintaining the 5mm gap when skimming and fill with acoustic sealant and then paint straight onto the sealant?
Hi Jake Whittingham, although the wall does have movement, realistically the amount that the wall physically moves due to sound is microscopic. 99% of our clients will plaster over the entire wall, and to date we have never had a client mention cracking in the plaster. So you should be absolutely fine. The other 1% will use a thick lining paper and then paint instead of plaster, but plaster is certainly preferable.
@@SoundproofingStore having used the system and decorated afterwards what I did was use plasterers fibre tape over the edge sealant all the way around the perimeter. Plastered all the way to the surrounding walls then ran another bead of sealant around the perimeter and smoothed it in with a finger before paint. System fitted 2 months ago and no cracks have appeared. Plasterer/multi trader
Why not plasterboard horizontally instead of having a jigsaw mess?! Would of been simpler I bet your guys didn’t think of that till after. Using the excuses for the wall lol 😜 in all honesty though it’s looks like a brilliant system and I imagine works all the same. Hoping to install it myself!
Hi Peter Smith, it is indeed a brilliant system, and feel free to call us on 01423 206208 should you have any questions when you look to install the system yourself, we'd be more than happy to help. With regards to the plasterboard going on horizontally, not really sure what the benefit would be here, as the boards would still have to be cut to fit the width of the alcove, and two boards on top of each other would still be short of the ceiling height. Therefore, the second board would need to be cut lower and a third board fixed above to make up the height. Also, without having an endless supply of boards on site, we also decided on board cuts to maximize the boards we had and minimise wastage.
Hi Michael, this is a common question and it comes from a slight misunderstanding of the use of mineral wool. Mineral wool doesn't soundproof, it isn't there to create a barrier to block sound. That is what the plasterboard and TecSound is there for. Mineral wool is only there because if you have an empty cavity (like that between the wall and plasterboard), sound will resonate and amplify in there. By having a decent amount of absorbing material in that cavity it stops the sound from resonating. You don't need to fill the space, it just needs to be a decent amount. Its similar to when you decorate a room and you take out all the soft furnishings, the room has more echo. When you put the soft furnishings back in, the echo goes away. But you've not filled the entire room from floor to ceiling with soft furnishings. You've just got a decent amount in there Hope that makes sense.
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you for your swift reply. That makes sense. I need my alcoves done in my back room. How should I go about getting a quote from you? Can I just email you with photos, dimensions etc? Thank you
@@floyd666uk No worries. You can either pop us an email with your dimensions, or fill in one of our contact forms on the website with your dimensions. Or give us aa call on 01423 206208. We can then give you lots of info and put together a material estimate for you.
The best option is bring the wires through the layers using as small a hole as possible. Seal with acosutic sealant. For studios customers will do this all in one place and then use trunking to run the cables around the room.
Hi Les Wall - this is a common question and it comes from a slight misunderstanding of the use of mineral wool. Mineral wool doesn't soundproof, it isn't there to create a barrier to block sound. That is what the plasterboard and TecSound is there for. Mineral wool is only there because if you have an empty cavity (like that between the wall and plasterboard), sound will resonate and amplify in there. By having a decent amount of absorbing material in that cavity it stops the sound from resonating. You don't need to fill the space, it just needs to be a decent amount. It's similar to when you decorate a room and you take out all the soft furnishings, the room has more echo. When you put the soft furnishings back in, the echo goes away. But you've not filled the entire room from floor to ceiling with soft furnishings. You've just got a decent amount in there Hope that makes sense. Regarding wallpaper, you shouldn't need to remove wallpaper, you can install the system over the top, however, if the wall has "dot and dab" plasterboard in front of the wall instead of plaster directly on the brick wall, this will need to be removed.
Hi Dave Cotty 83, the flex absorbing the sound energy is microscopic. You would never know the wall was soundproofed to look at it and it is no more likely to crack than a standard plastered wall.
My property is separated be plasterboard then concrete panel then plasterboard. We hear airborne noise up stairs from adjoining downs stairs. The question is can I just do our bedroom or my do I have to do my downstairs aswell
Hi Dez hull, have you tried doing an ear test when you can hear the noise? Do it on the bedroom party wall, then on the floor of the bedroom and also on the party wall downstairs and listen to what you can hear. If you can hear it through the floor, then it is most likely also coming through the party wall downstairs. Just doing the bedroom wall will certainly help reduce the noise, but if sound is also travelling through the downstairs party wall, then to achieve the best results, both walls would need doing.
@@kennethz3366 sorry I still don't understand what you mean. Are you talking about noise from neighbours above you coming down through your ceiling? It may be best for you to give us a call so we can have a proper conversation about it.
Hi o o - We get a lot of comments about. Its about understanding what it's actually there for. Acoustic mineral wool (or "the foam"), isn't soundproofing. It isn't there to block sound. Thats what the plasterboard and TecSound layers are there for. The only reason the insulation is there is because if you leave a hollow cavity, sound will echo and resonate inside the cavity and amplify. To stop this, you need some absorbent material. That absorbent material doesn't need to completely fill the space or cover the wall, you just need a decent amount in there. Completely covering the wall and jamming it in wouldn't improve performance at all. Its like if you take all the soft furnishings out of a room (carpet, curtains, sofa, cushions), the room has more echo, if you put them back in, the echo reduces. You didn't need to fill the entire volume of the room with soft furnishings to achieve that.
Hi steven kearns, can you hear noise coming through the chimney breast? Next time you can hear the noise, do an ear test to the alcoves and the chimney and compare how much noise you can hear. Often the chimney breast doesn't need soundproofing, as chimney breasts are usually constructed with a double layer of fire bricks, which are far heavier and more dense than the bricks usually used in the alcoves. (Therefore the chimney breast naturally has more mass and is therefore usually more effective at blocking noise). This blog goes into more detail: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney However, you can indeed soundproof the chimney breast using the ReductoClip System if noise can be heard - this blog shows how: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-against-awkward-areas
Hi would this help with Noisey Neighbours? I live in a mid terrace, on one side I can hear walking across the floor very loud and conversations clearly, on the other side I hear their toilet flushing and water running, on both sides I hear light switches and plugs being inserted, is there any way too dampen all of this to the maximum I can? Selling up isn’t an option as the house isn’t owned by myself but I’m at my wits end
Hi King B, yes absolutely. The reductoClip direct to wall system is an excellent solution for noisy neighbours at only 60mm space loss. To further improve this solution, a stud frame can be built in front of the existing wall to further decouple any sound transference and the system build up is then added to the stud frame rather than the existing wall. This solution is the ReductoClip Independent Wall System and is our highest performing solution (120mm space loss). Please see the below links: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html The best advice would be to call us on 01423 206208 and we can discuss your situation in more detail with you and avdvise on the most appropriate solution.
Hi John Cena, we can ship the system to you and supply detailed installation guides. The ReductoClip™ Direct to Wall System can be installed by a competent DIYer (as shown in the video) or local tradesperson. We would recommend two people to install the system due to the heavy nature of some of the materials.
The sound wave is going to be hitting the plasterboard layers first, so the fact that these are now de-coupled and resilient allows them to absorb a huge amount of that energy. So while you are corrcet to a degree that some small amount of the energy can still get to the screws and therefore the wall, this is a tiny percentage of what previously would have been hitting the entire solid surface of the wall. So by minimizing that contact surface area it gives a big reduction. The only way to further improve results would be to build a completely indpendent wall as we mention in the video. However this takes up a lot more space that many people just aren't able to lose. More info on our independent system here - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Hi @Maffoo the whole material cost for this job was just under £1000 for around 10m2. In terms of cost this system is more expensive, The SoundBoard 4 system for the same area would work out around £600 - £700. However, this system blocks a lot more sound and a wider range of sounds. SoundBoard 4 is ideal for mid - high frequency sounds such as voices, but struggles with impact sounds such as banging doors, footfall etc and struggles with low frequencies such as bass from tv's, music systems etc. The ReductoClip system on the other hand, can reduce all of these sounds to a good level.
@@HektorBandimar we don't install the systems ourselves, however - we do supply comprehensive installation guides and videos and are available to answer any questions. Our systems can be installed by a competent DIYer (we recommend 2 people to install the ReductoClip™ Systems). Alternatively, for anyone not feeling confident enough to do the installation themselves, a local tradesperson would have no difficulty. There is also a list of installers on our website who are experienced in installing our systems, (but don't work for The Soundproofing Store): www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/installation
Hi kool123g, you can't avoid the vent. The vent will need to be either moved or blocked up. Otherwise sound will just bypass the soundproofing via the vent.
Hi Justin Phillips, firstly, in most cases, the vast majority of the sound you hear will come straight through the wall. Therefore by just addressing the wall, this is going to make a significant difference in most cases. If you can clearly hear that you do have sound coming from the floor or ceiling in your situation, then installing an acoustic mineral wool insulation between the joists will help with that. We would recommend to install the mineral wool all along the wall and around 1 - 1.5m into the room. soundproofingstore.uk/product/acoustic-mineral-wool-60kg/
Hi. I looking to sound proof my party wall but is brick wall with dot and dab plasterboard Can i install this sistem on dot and bad plasterboard wall or should i remove the plasterboard first? Thank you
Hi Ionut, we would recommend removing the dot and dab first if possible. The below blog goes into more detail as to why: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/why-is-dot-and-dab-plasterboard-bad-for-soundproofing If you have any questions, or need any help please feel free to call us on 01423 206208.
Hi jonneymendoza - It really isn't that black and white, every situation is different. If you can hear sound come through the ceiling then yes you're correct, if you can't then you're wasting your money soundproofing it. All depends on the cosntruction, connections to neighbours, noise type etc.
@@SoundproofingStore that's good to know. I was just reading up on this topic and came across information stating that we should also soundproof the ceiling too. Good if not needed as I could just do the partition walls and do so myself as I will just need to order the material and parts
Hi The Dub Whisperer - Thanks for your question. Tricky question, as obviously every situation is different, so it depends on the noise being experienced, the type of wall / property it is being installed on etc. But as an average we achieve a 16dB (Rw) improvement to the performance of the existing wall, or a total reduction of 57dB (Rw+Ctr) installed on a single brick wall. This is tested to ISO 717-1 so is only tested bewteen 100Hz - 3150Hz. A real world test performance report can be downloaded here - irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/28aa4e38/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Wall%20Performance%20Data.pdf
@@thedubwhisperer2157 No worries. Yes absolutely, up in the higher frequencies 20+dB is very achievable, it's the trickier lower end that drags down the average. If you do have space to build a de-coupled stud frame, and install the system onto that, you can achieve even higher performance - th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
@@SoundproofingStore Thanks again. If only flanking noise was this easy to eliminate Some of my walls are 1m thick stone, but the house is built on bedrock...
@@thedubwhisperer2157 Ah, flanking can be a real nightmare in some properties. Its a case of spending time really narrowing down what surfaces sound is eminating from, and addressing those surfaces the best you can. But if its coming through everywhere, that can end up being very costly unfortunately.
Hi @user-bw7uz7tq1l, a local tradesperson will have no problem installing any of our soundproofing systems. They can also be installed by a competent DIYer (as was the case in this video). A member of the team will also happily talk through the installation process and answer any questions should the person installing it have any (as and when you find someone).
Hi odarkos - Great question, one we do get asked a lot. There is a mis understanding with soundproofing that the insulation is the part that is blocking the sound. This is incorrect. Insulation doesn't block any sound. The heavy mass layers on the front of the system are creating the barrier to block the sound, so these need to cover the entire wall and be completely sealed. The insulation is purely there because we have created a cavity between the wall and plasterboard, and if not insulated the sound will bounce around and resonate and amplify in that cavity. The insulation helps to soak up that sound and stop that from happening. You don't need to completely fill a space to achieve that, you just need a decent amount. So putting a slab bewteen each furring bar is more than enough insulation to achieve that. It also then makes sure that the insulation isn't packed up against the furring channels and hindering their ability to flex and dampen the vibration. Hope that all made sense.
Hi Rich Benjamin, Technically you want a 5mm gap all the way around on every layer, but actually with the Tecsound being flexible and absorbing, it doesn't matter if the Tecsound does touch the edges, as long as the plasterboard doesn't.
@@richbenjamin7815 Green glue wouldn't add any benefit here. Green glue is just designed to add a small amount of dampening between two plasterboards. TecSound (being visco elastic) already adds this dampening between the boards, so Green glue would add no extra benefit.
@@HektorBandimar We can deliver to a freight forwarding depot within the UK for the materials to then be shipped to the Isle of Man. This would need to be arranged by yourself. Alternatively, you could arrange for a courier to collect the materials.
Hi Ali Sid, It depends on the exact situation, but generally if you have noise from outside getting in, its usually not the wall that is the problem, but in fact your windows or doors. External walls are generally very good at blocking sound, made up of multiple layers of dense brick / block with a cavity. The weak point is the windows and doors that have far less mass than the rest of the wall. So unless this is a timber constructed wall, I would be looking at upgrading your windows instead of soundproofing the walls.
@@SoundproofingStore windows are sealed. Its a concrete wall but that does'nt stop all noise. I dont want to lose space inside my room so thinking about de coupling from the outside
@@alisid4947 It doesn't matter if the windows are sealed, the glass itself has only a small fraction of the mass of the concrete wall. So its more likely the sound is coming straight through the glass, than straight through the concrete. You can test it by using your ears. When you can hear sound outside, stand in front of a solid part of the wall, put your ear near to the wall but not against it, and get a good sense of what you can hear, then stand in front of the window and put your ear near the window and compare. Its very likely you'll notice more sound is coming through when you are stood in front of the window. If not, if it is the wall, then yes, a de-coupled system like our ReductoClip system would be perfect, and you would install this on the inside. But based on my years of experience, I would say its 95% likely that the sound is coming through the window more than the wall.In which case, you'll need to look into secondary glazing to upgrade the performance of the window.
@@SoundproofingStore mate, windows have been sealed with cement. Concrete as far as I know, n i may be wrong, blocks sound to a certain extent. i live next to very noisey trafic n a mosque with loud speakers..Thanks to silicone ear plugs i am able to get a goodnight sleep most of the time, otherwise the noise is a bit challenging, especially coming from the mosque more than the trafic. I was able to soundproof one room in my house to a certain extent with the mehods you suggested in your video n thinking about doing it to other rooms as well.
@@alisid4947 Hi Ali, sorry I think you're mis understanding me. Its nothing to do with the seal. The perimeter can be a weakness, so being well sealed is a good thing, but regardless of how well sealed it is, the sound can come through the actual glass itself. Sound is blocked by mass, mass is basically weight. So the heavier and more dense a material is, the more sound it blocks. Glass has nowhere near the same amount of mass as the concrete wall. So forgetting the seal, the sound can be coming through the actual glass window far more easily than it can come through the concrete. So in 95% of cases like this, the window needs upgrading, by installing a secondary glazing internally. Again, the only way to know is to do the ear test and listen at the wall and listen at the window and see where the sound is coming through.
Hi As a rough guide for the dimensions provided the cost would be £851 including Delivery and VAT, if you would like a full estimate please call us on 01423206208
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you - one further question - our deviding wall is breeze block - cavity - breeze block. I keep reading that this type of system wouldn't work for this installation due to the flanking properties of breeze blocks?
@@MrAllister88 if the noise is travelling through the wall, then the system will work. However, you need to check for flanking noise travelling through the other walls, floor and/or ceiling and treat accordingly. (Do an ear test to see where else the noise is flanking). The installation of the ReductoClip™ direct to wall system will work, regardless of the construction of the wall. Only made slightly more awkward if you drill into a cavity when installing. However, we would recommend the ReductoClip™ Independent System: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Soundproofing the alcoves has very little effect if the neighbour has the tv on the wall or chimney breast. It’s the modern curse. Sound travels through the chimney breast as well as alcoves and flank walls.
Mounted TV's can definitely complicate things. We always say, every property is different and every noise problem is different, there is never a one size fits all solution. In a lot of cases, the majority if not all the sound comes through the alcoves, this is what we hear from our customer's hundreds of times a week, but there are situations like mounted tv's that can change that. Its about spending the time to really listen to your own property and narrow down exactly where the sound is emanating from.
@@SoundproofingStore I live in a small but quaint cottage with no back windows or access. As with many little cottages in the area, it is double fronted with the garden and access at the front. The terraced cottages are adjoined at the laterals or sides with no adjoining houses/ buildings at the back. This means the back wall of the lounge/bedroom is also the flanking wall. There are no windows in the rear wall. The new neighbours mounted the tv on the chimney breast. Checking alcoves and chimney breast as recommended I can clearly hear the tv through the brickwork of the alcoves, chimney breast and rear flanking wall There is a small, sealed opening at the foot of the chimney breast where the old fireplace used to be. The noise is louder in this little area. The noise travels up the walls into the bedroom above meaning there is no respite in the bedroom. Because of the way the cottage is constructed, at certain sound frequencies, the rear alcove part of the lounge adjoining wall seems to reverberate or ‘echo’ the sound as it bounces through the chimney breast, alcove and rear/flanking wall. I can also hear sneezes, when they talk loudly, coughs etc. I am guessing both lounge and bedroom alcoves, chimney breasts and rear flanking walls would need treatment. Factoring in moving of radiators, plugs, repairs to carpets, re-fitting skirting boards, plastering plus labour costs as I’m not a skilled DIYer (nor do I have the tools), I reckon I’m looking at £10-12k plus min 4” reduction in room width and depth on adjoins/rear flank walls.
@@wolves201 given everything you've highlighted above, our best advice would be to call us on (01423) 206208 so we can discuss this with you in more detail. If you have the dimensions of your walls, you can also e-mail them to us at sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk and we can provide you with an estimate. The two alcoves in the above video were circa 10m2 (combined) and for the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System shown, the cost of materials for both alcoves came in at just under £1,000 including VAT and delivery.
Hi Paul, this can happen if the cavity isn't insulated. This is why we add 25mm of 60kg/m3 acoustic mineral wool in the cavity to stop sound from resonating behind the plasterboard. Building a nother block wall is not a very practical solution for most people though, so they need to do something and with as little space loss as possible.
@@SoundproofingStore i have a nx doors boiler on my party wall it vibraites and makes humming sound thts on every wall in my houses its driving me nutts had envirementhal officer out and he said if you put tell y on it would drown the noise out but it doseant the hummings in you ears it wakes us up every morning when they put their boiler on they rent the house land lord wont do out i think their boilers is f...... pump etc 3 yers ago i went to a sound proofing company they sold me the rails i put sound proofing plaster boards to them with the wool inulation but i did not put the rubber screen aross my living room wall wot they told me to do and the humming vibration off their boiler is still their the thing is be for i put new rails on and when i stripped my plaster boards off to reveal the concreet bloks you could hardly hear any vibration or humming wondering if i should take the acutic boards i put up off and just get concrete bloks skimmed over with cement as thirs no plaster boards to act like a drum skin
@@tanglewood777 It depends what rail system was used, there are many different types and they are not all equal. Some like our ReductoClip system are designed to dampen that vibration and energy, some don't absorb as much, some are just fixing channels that don't absorb anything. If the wall was actually performing well in the first place and therefore didn't actually need soundproofing (determined by the fact that it performed better when you removed the plasterboard), this would suggest that the rails may have just been channels to fix the plasterboard to, not necessarily a soundproofing system. The problem in most cases is that the block wall isn't do ing the job, so you need to add something to it to improve the performance.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี : คู่มวยแห่งยุค (11 ตุลาคม 2567)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aTc7-tPYuJM/mqdefault.jpg)
Done my first wall down stairs this week with the clip to frame and my wife seems impressed she said it's gone from a clear conversation from nextdoor down to a very very faint whisper and we can no longer hear nextdoors toilet flush, when everyone is being quite, the harddrive in the sky q box is now the dominant noise in the room ,just upstairs to start tomorrow I'm extremely pleased with the results so far.
Hi adrian heritage, great to hear you are extremely pleased with the ReductoClip™ system and that it has made such a difference to the noise problems you were previously experiencing.
just a quick update 3 walls done 2 with frame. 1 clip to wall it's been up about 3months now really good results no complaints so easy to do it's made a massive improvement on all walls I will be ordering enough for 3 more walls very soon thanks .
Hi@@TashandAdetravels thanks for the update. This is great to hear and we will look forward to speaking to you soon.
Adrian thanks for the comment, considering buying myself and it's really great to hear from a happy customer
@@jonesconrad1 Hi Conrad I've done done two more walls one today actually,with the Tec soundboard 4 really quick and effective reduced an awful lot of noise from next door soundproofing store are really helpful and very good to deal with it's a lot cheaper than moving that's for sure and all systems are easy to install. I've done 2 with a stud and reduction clip one with clip to wall and 2 with soundboard 4 all with better than expected results.
We used this firm and this system its absolutely amazing, worth every penny, Phil and the team are so friendly and helpful, I would highly recommend them
Hi Paul, thank you for the kind comment. Always happy to help solve peoples noise issues.
I’ve used this system on 3 party walls in the same house on a 3x2 stud with 75mm rock wool in the stud. It works extremely well. We’re going back in April to use the direct to wall version as shown here in a bedroom where space is of a premium. It’s a brilliant system, probably going to do my own bedroom with it.
Plasterer/multi trader.
Hi Rich Walker, thanks for the great feedback on your project and we'll look forward to speaking to you again when you come to do the bedroom(s).
is it expensive to purchase the installation materials?
Hi Rich. I live in a duplex with a solid concrete wall with plasterboard stuck on in between neighbour. When they play music, I can hear it. Will this system stop music coming through? Using the same set up you did with 3x2 plus acoustic insulation. Thanks
Probably one of the best soundproofing videos on TH-cam. I've watched hours and hours of them!
Thank you for the kind feedback
Do you think this would block out loud barking dogs? Thanks
Hi@@jennymeade7429 for loud barking dogs we'd point you in the direction of the ReductoClip Independent Wall system:
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Love this dudes hair! 👌
Excellent, exceptionally helpful and clear. Answered several questions I had. Great job!
Thanks sfkeepay, we appreciate the feedback
Hi soundproofing store , I installed your product today for the first time on a customers house, approximately 12sqm, what an absolute dream to install, we slid the anchors over the furrings, pilot and plugged the middle one and levelled it . The hardest part was lifting the tecsound supremo adhesive matt high up to stick to the wall, that is HEAVY!!!!. Back tomorrow to plaster it . Really impressed with the product.
Hi Tony, thanks for the nice comment. It is pretty straight forward to install. The trick with the TecSound is to cut it into smaller more manageable pieces. Rather than trying to get large pieces on in one go. Glad you are enjoying the system!
Soundproofing Store hi yes we were doing approximately 1.5sqm but it’s heavy stuff. If you ever need any installers drop me an email s-w-p@live.co.uk south Woodham Plastering/ Checkatrade. Cheers
@@tonyjamesr116 would you be interested in giving me a price for installing mine please? I am in Sidcup Kent.
Great stuff. Was put off with a terrace due to experience with where I currently live and neighbours mounting sound systems to shared walls. This looks like it could at least take the edge off.
Hi @andrew2272kag, great to hear your feedback.
For an even higher performance against extreme noise e.g. loud music, heavy bass, or just wanting to achieve the highest possible sound reduction, the ReductoClip Independent System might also be of interest..
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic the way ut us explained in nice low calm voice
Thank you Gurprasad Singh
just placed an order this looks the most advanced system i have come accross, the only difference is i glued one peice of 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard to the wall already i know this is added wasted space but i think the overall effect will be worth it,
Hi Nigel, Great to hear you've purchased the ReductoClip system. Just wanted to check the 12.5mm plasterboard. Was this adhered so it was completely flat against the wall or was there a gap behind the board at all? Just wanted to check because there is good reason why we don't recommend this as standard.
@@SoundproofingStore i used plasterboard foam to stick it directly to party wall then am going to build a floating stud wall 10 to 15 mm away from that
will it be of any concern, dont think i will be able to remove that now
@@nige65 Thanks for the call Nigel, glad it helped. As I said, any other questions at all, don't hesitate to call me - Phil @ Soundproofing Store
@@SoundproofingStore thanks so much for your time and help
Looks like a great system and the one I will probably use, one of my walls is just like the one in the clip, I assumed I would need to do the front of the chimney also, is this not the case ?
Hi @stevetruby8865, in the majority of cases it's only the alcoves which need soundproofing. This is because the chimney usually has more mass and often a double layer of fire bricks making it harder for airborne sound to travel through. Next time you hear the unwanted noise, do a simple ear test against the alcoves and the chimney and compare the difference. If you can hear the noise coming through the chimney, then it would be advisable to soundproof this too. This blog might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
If you need any help or advice with this, please feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 and we will gladly discuss it with you.
I mist certainly need to have this type of soundproofing, as recently moved into an old property that's partitioned, I'm in a ground floor street property, the partition where stairs go up the the rest of whole house above is awful it really is. Desperately needs sorting. Glad I've watched how to, as will now get one of my bros to help out.. Amazing job guys. 👏
Thank you Diane, if you need any help or advice, please don't hesitate to give us a call.
Can one hang a large mirror on this?
This is really helpful. Thanks for making this video.
Glad you found it helpful, thank you for the kind comment.
Stud wall. Fill the spaces with rockwool. Plasterboard then tecsound membrane. Plasterboard then skim. It really is as easy as that. Worked a treat in my house👍👍.
Hi Lazylad, that would do a good job, but it also takes up more space. So you have to have options that will still offer a good performance but taking up less space. This is where the ReductoClip system comes in. This full build up is only 60mm.
What kind of wall did you build the stud wall on please ?
@@christolongers brick
Great video very informative & very well laided out i.e step by step instructions,how would you go about fitting around existing plug sockets in walls if sound proofing is needed? Would wall sockets have to be moved to an adjoining wall?
Hi Red Dragons. Thank you for the kind comments. Regarding sockets, you can't just soundproof around the existing sockets as this will be a big weakness, you need to bring the sockets forward to the front of the new soundproof layers. In a perfect world make a very small hole in the soundproofing to pull the wiring through, seal around with acoustic sealant, then surface mount your sockets onto the face of the wall instead of recessing. This way you aren't taking away soundproofing and filling the hole with a piece of plastic! If you don't like the look of surface mounted sockets and want them recessed then to at least minimise the weakness, install some acoustic putty pads in the back of the socket - soundproofingstore.uk/product/acoustic-socket-putty-pads/
Brilliant video. Why have you left a gap between the two cuts of insulation? Cheers
Hi @MrSamuelatkinson1 - This is a question we get asked a lot, it's a good question and we should maybe have gone into more detail in the video. Most people think the insulation should cover the whole wall because they mis understand what it is there for. Mineral wool insulation doesn't actually block any sound, it's not there to create a barrier (unlike the plasterboard and TecSound layers). It's there because we have created a hollow cavity between the plasterboard and the original wall. If this is left hollow, sound will bounce around and echo and amplify. To stop this from happening you need some absorbing material in the cavity. You don't need to completely fill the cavity, you just need a reasonable amount to stop the sound bouncing around. A good example is when you decorate a room and you take the carpets and curtains and sofas etc out. The room suddenly sounds much more echoey because the soft materials have been removed. When you put them back in again the echo goes away. But you didn't completely fill the room from floor to ceiling with soft material. Hope that makes sense.
@@SoundproofingStore Ahh I see. Thank you for your reply. I will definitely be using your system for the next room I am renovating in my house. 👍
This looks great. Would i be able to attach this system directly to a plastered party wall or would i need to remove the plaster first?
Hi @garrywait-smith9532, if it's a plastered wall, then fine to directly attach the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System. However, if there is also a layer of plasterboard, then the recommendation would be to remove this first.
Here are a few more videos you might find useful:
th-cam.com/video/huNDsYKLpqo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system
The ReductoClip Independent Wall System may also be of interest:
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Why you didn't fill with insulation all the way between the metals? Thanks
Hi sebastian todea, there is no need to cover the entire wall in insulation. Insulation does not block sound, it is not soundproofing. The heavy layers of mass that we add on top is there to block the sound. Insulation is only there for one purpose. If there is a hollow cavity and sound gets inside it, the sound will bounce around and resonate and amplify. We just need enough insulation in that cavity to absorb the sound and stop it from resonating. It's like when you decorate a room and take out all the soft furniture and carpets and curtains, the room then has an echo. Put the carpets and curtains and sofa back in the room and it stops the echo. You don't need to fill the entire space of the room, you just need enough to absorb the echo. Plus, if we butt insulation up against the furring channels and clips, it could hinder the movement of the clips, reducing their effectiveness.
Thank you very much for your answer!
What do keep shaking the clip for? 🤔
Lovely video. How long generally does it take to soundproof a wall like this as in the video?
Hi Billy Bob, it took a day and a half to do both alcoves in the video. However, this included more stop-starts because of the filming, than there would be ordinarily.
@@SoundproofingStore So would it take a day without the filming?
@@billybob1831 yes, it could be done in a day.
Brilliant video! I'm hoping you could help with a couple of queries please.
In our house (a 1930 semi), the party wall to our bedroom has a chimney breast. The fireplace has been removed, and all that remains is a vent in the wall.
We hear a high pitched noise from the water being pulled to the neighbours boiler everytime they use their hot water. The water pipes run in the floor parallel to the party wall to their boiler which is fixed to the party wall. We can also hear coughing, etc.
The floor joists run parallel to the party wall.
A couple of questions.
1. Should the system extend down past the floor boards to just above the ceiling below, to prevent the noise from the pipes bridging through?
2. Does the chimney breast need covering, and if so, what is the construction detail for the external corners? Many thanks.
Hi Fraserboo Bo, great that you found the video useful.
Due to there being a weakness in the chimney breast, it would certainly be best to address this area as well as the alcoves. Please take a look at this blog which details how to soundproof round the chimney breast using ReductoClips:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-against-awkward-areas
You can certainly extend the system further down past the floor, although this can be quite fiddly to do. The recommendation would be to soundproof the wall to the floor, add acoustic mineral wool in between the joists in the floor and then depending on the improvement this has made, you could also look at soundproofing the floor.
Take a look at our SoundMat 3 Plus for a carpet final floor finish, or the Reverso SoundMat if your final floor finish is a hard floor finish:
th-cam.com/video/S9ZhiDRTPds/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/N_uOq6V7j_M/w-d-xo.html
It is also worth taking a look at our ReductoClip Independent Wall System which will give you an even higher performance against the unwanted noise you are experiencing (if needed):
th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
This is all quite tricky to answer via TH-cam, so please do feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and a member of the team will be more than happy to discuss your situation in more detail and advise on the best solution.
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you so much for such a comprehensive response. Much appreciated 🙏
My DIY skills are pretty much non existent. Quite surprised to find out that you guys don’t install it as well. That would be great if you did! Do you have a list of approved installers?
Hi Rich F, the systems are all designed as a DIY installation, and are supplied with step by step installation guides and videos of the installation. Our expert team are also on hand to answer any questions. For those customers who don't feel confident installing it themselves, then they simply use a local tradesperson. (Anyone with experience of fitting plasterboard will find it simple to install).
Our advice would be to find a local tradesperson and we will happily speak to them directly. However, we do have installers who regularly install our systems and if you give us a call on 01423 206208, or e-mail sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk with your postcode, we can let you know if there is anyone local to yourself. Doing it this way is much more cost effective for customers than a supply and fit service.
Further information on installation can be found here:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/installation
This sounds (no pun intended) like the most well thought out system for reducing noise through a common wall. We have a place that is known as a duplex, and the common wall filters nothing. It’s old, so it is lath and plaster. I think the optimum solution would be to remove the existing lath and plaster so that we are at the studs, and then go with this process, but would need obviously a starting surface to attach everything to. That starting surface would best be a thick piece of dry wall, correct? Interior losses would be 60mm-a bit over 2.3 inches for us Yanks. The good news story is that you’re only going to have to do that to one side, correct? Good work!
Hi Edgy00, as you say - remove the lath and plaster to the stud frame there. Fill the frame with acoustic mineral wool, then fix the clips straight onto the stud frame. There is no need for a surface layer before installing the system. In fact adding a surface layer will reduce results in his case. All the solid surfaces should be attached at the end onto the ReductoClips not before.
Thanks for the videos. Learning loads! Is it worth putting acoustic sealant in the 5mm gap perimeter of the first layer of plasterboard as well as the final layer? Thanks
Hi Matthew Hunt, great to hear you are finding the videos useful. Some people choose to seal both the first and second layers, (as an extra precaution). However, as long as the second layer is sealed correctly there will be minimal benefit in doing both.
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you. Appreciate the reply.
This is a great looking system! I am trying to find the best way to build a sound proof booth for my home studio, but I am limited for space. Approx 1.2m x 2m is what I'm working with, do you have any specific studio systems or do you think the Reductoclip would be applicable?
Hi Carrot, you would need the ReductoClip™ Independent wall system for your sound both: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system this studio page may also be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing if you have any questions, feel free to drop the studio team a message at: sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk or call them on 01423 206208.
Really interested in the product but wondering about the chimney breast. Can i cover over that too? Sometimes i think the sound is coming through the chimney 😅. Great video BTW 👍🏼
Hi jonkajs, great to hear you enjoyed the video. Yes, you absolutely can. Next time you can hear the unwanted noise, (if you haven't already) - put your ear to the alcoves and do the same on the chimney breast and it will give you a good indication of how much noise is coming through the chimney.
These articles might be of interest:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-against-awkward-areas
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
If we can help further, please don't hesitate to call us on (01423) 206208.
@@SoundproofingStore cheers for the quick reply. Interesting alright i will have to give it a go. Just one other question.. If you drill into the sound proofing board to hang a picture or tv. Does that allow the sound to travel through at that point then
@@jonkajs Yes, you can drill into the soundproofing to hang pictures. We recommend using acoustic sealant to fill in any gaps and for heavy items such as TV's then more secure fixings may be required. (Please see below):
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-install-a-tv-or-radiator-onto-the-reductoclip-systems
nice job!
Very interested in buying these clips.. im looking to soundproof my bedroom ceiling which is solid concrete.
We can hear everything from upstairs, voices,music,tv etc..
Just wondering how you build a timber stud frame off the ceiling. I have atleast 50-100mm space i can use. Drop level.
Hi Thanks for your comment. With that space you won't be able to do completely de-coupled ceiling joists, but for concrete we would usually fix 50mm timber battens to the concrete (using concrete fixings), add your mineral wool between the battens, then fix the clips to the battens with timber screws. There is an installation guide for concrete ceilings whic you can find here - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-ceiling-system-concrete-with-timber-batten
I've got a difficult question to answer. When I'm in the bedroom upstairs and noise is emanating from the property next door, sometimes it is coming from their adjoining bedroom and sometimes from the room directly below their bedroom. If it is coming from their downstairs room would insulation between my and their bedroom be enough to block the noise? (Properties have solid walls with wooden floorboards).
Hi Michael Stokes, when you are in your bedroom and you can hear the noise coming from the room directly below their bedroom, is it coming through your wall or floor? Next time you can hear them in that room, do an ear test on your wall and floor. Also, is there a chimney breast?
Feel free to call us on 01423 206208 and we can discuss this in more detail with you. It might be that you need to soundproof your upstairs and downstairs party wall.
Good question and thanks for the superfast reply. I can't say for sure whether the noise was coming from the wall or the floor since I only put my ear to the wall and it was loud. When I went downstairs it was louder but since I don't sleep there it's not as bothersome. The noisy tenants have now moved on so until the new ones move in I can't really say. (There is no chimney breast).@@SoundproofingStore
@@michaelstokes3839 you know where we are, once the new tenants move in (should you need us!)
Hi thanks for the video,
Would you be able to hang a cabinet or a big frame in the new sound proof wall?
If so, would go attached into the channels or the partywall itself?
Thanks
Hi Francesc Donaire - Thank you for the message. Yes you can hang cabinets and frames etc to the wall. You want to attach it to the soundproofing system though, do not fix all the way thorugh into the wall itself, this will "short circuit" or "bridge" the system affecting results. Either fix things into the furring channels using self drilling screws or if you don't have a furring channel at the location you need to fix, then fix into the plasterboard layers using appropriate plasterboard fixings.
Great looking system! Am I correct in thinking that if you strip a (semi detached) adjoining wall back to the bricks then install this system that you would not lose any space? If not, could you confirm how much extra space this would take up compared to original finished wall? Thanks.
Hi @Nabeel Kubba - This system takes up 60mm of space including the clips, furring channels, TecSound and plasterboard layers. So it depends on the thickness of the current build up. If you just have a dot and dabbed plasterboard, this will will probably only be around 20 - 25mm. But the ReductoClip system installed direct to wall is certainly very, very thin for such a high performing system.
@@SoundproofingStore Thanks, is the party wall typically dot and dabb for a 1970's build? I thought there might already be a stud frame in there..
@@nabeelkubba1305 Its very difficult to know. There could b some sort of frame, or just battons on the wall, or dot and dab. Even if it wasn't dot and dabbed when it was built, you don't know if another previous owner has done it etc. Unless you start cutting holes into it, its all guess work.
How effective is this system against impact noise? Our main issue is we can hear footsteps down the side of our house.
Ideally we would use the timber frame but not sure we can afford to lose that much space.
Hi @ReeseBayley, as you mention, decoupling the soundproofing from the wall using the ReductoClip Independent Solution would give you the highest performance against impact noise. (The ReductoClip System is the slimmest system on the market). However, where the 120mm space loss isn't feasible, then the next best option would be the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System (60mm). This is a hugely popular solution because of its performance v's space loss. Please feel fee to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can always discuss this with you in more detail.
I want to use one layer of prosound soundboard 4. Twice as thick (with vinyl and foam layers) as the standard acoustic plasterboard but hope that still works
Hi @Muzik_Junkie, our ProSound SoundBoard 4 is an excellent solution for lightweight stud walls. For brick walls (which already have more mass) the recommendation would be to use the ReductoClip System. Please do feel free to contact us and we can discuss your unwanted noise issue in more detail and advise accordingly (01423) 206208.
This video might be of interest:
th-cam.com/video/huNDsYKLpqo/w-d-xo.html
Thank you
I am trying to understand, so you install those on the studs 2x4 1200mm (47") in between?
Hi @ghesoonkarim602, please see below the installation guide for the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System:
irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Direct%20To%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf
There is a positioning diagram for the clips and furring channels (showing the spacings) which can be found on page 5.
You mention studs, is this on an existing stud wall, or are you building an independent stud frame in front of an existing wall? If needed - please also find the Installation guide for the ReductoClip Independent Wall System:
irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Independent%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf
@@SoundproofingStore thank you 😊
Great video.I have a question. : Can this be installed straight over a large lath and plaster victorian ceiling without ripping the ceiling back to the joists? Im guessing it is one hell of an undertaking for a large ceiling even for specialists?
Thanks
Hi Joey S, you can absolutely use the ReductoClips as part of a ceiling system, please see below:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings
th-cam.com/video/eQCRUpacDo0/w-d-xo.html
Our recommendation would be to remove the ceiling and add mineral wool between the timber joists and then rebuild (as per the build up detailed on the link above). However, you can install the system through the lath and plaster and into the existing joists, (but the greater improvement would be had by removing the existing ceiling). Any questions at all, please feel free to call us on 01423 206208.
@@SoundproofingStore thanks for the quick reply
Will this help with impact noise? Our neighbors have shower doors they like to slam.
Hi @andreawilliams8471 Yes this system will help with impact noise but how much depends on the frequency of the sound. Banging door sounds tend to be low pitch, therefore you will get a much better reduction from our Independent ReductoClip System - th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
Should have stuck the felt on the whole wall then put your fixings on make it more sound proof. Metal helps sound travel. Even screws in brick work can transfer sound, gluing would help more...
Hi Charles Clifford, the 'felt' is acoustic mineral wool. This is to absorb sound resonating in the space between the plasterboard and the wall, not for soundproofing - therefore the whole wall doesn't need covering. The ReductoClips being used are isolation clips, with the rubber element of the clip touching the wall. This decouples the soundproofing from the original wall so when the soundwaves hit the wall, the wall can ride out that energy vibration. At no point is there any metal touching the party wall.
With regards to gluing, effective soundproofing involves adding (different layers of) high mass materials to help block airborne noise. Anything you can simply glue to the wall won't be heavy enough, or contain enough mass to soundproof the wall.
Hi, how much would the set up presented in this video cost? Thanks from America.
Hi The Prodigal714, I'm afraid we don't ship to America. However, the current cost to do both of these alcoves would be £1,220 which includes VAT and delivery. (It doesn't include installation and the customer installs it himself with the help of a friend in the video).
I need to do two alcoves on each side of my chimney, my neighbours are really noisy people. Should I sound proof the chimney as well?
Hi Alex, do an ear test when you next hear your neighbours being noisy by putting your ear to the chimney breast and comparing it to the noise you can hear when you do the same on the alcoves.
This is a useful article explaining why 9 times out of 10 the chimney doesn't usually need soundproofing, but also details exceptions when it does and if so, the most effective ways to soundproof it:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
How effective is this system on a day to day basis in a regular household? We live in a two bedroom semi detached that was built in the 70’s. The walls are quite thin and we hear pretty much everything from our neighbours and vice versa. The noise is mainly in the evenings, with really loud laughing and talking which causes a nuisance as we have young children.
Would just doing the ‘party walls’ and the upstairs walls be sufficient, or would we need to look at getting the chimney breast and the under floor upstairs soundproofed? I’ve read a couple of reviews that claim that this kind of system isn’t all that effective, so was just curious as to how yours performs.
Also, what is the cost per square metre of the system installed? The downstairs alcoves aren’t that big, maybe a plasterboard big, but the kitchen wall and the upstairs walls are bigger.
Thanks again.
Hi Rich F, the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System is extremely effective at blocking the noises you have described. However, for an even higher performing system, take a look at the ReductoClip Independent Wall System (please see below link).
With regards to the chimney, usually it is only the alcoves which need soundproofing. However, do an ear test on the chimney when you can hear the noise and compare it to the noise coming through the alcoves.
With regards to the floor, you can always add acoustic insulation to the first few rows of the empty joists, or 1.2m in from the wall to help with any flanking noise.
There is quite a lot to cover off here, so our advice would be to call us on 01423 206208 so we can talk though your situation in more detail and advise you accordingly. If you have the dimensions of the wall(s) to hand when you call, we can also price the system for you.
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
Can you not double up on this, I know you did two layers of acoustic plaster board, but can you do a stud wall, then the wool, then a layer of plaster board and repeat that process again surely that would make it even more soundproof?
Hi Bhavesh, as we explained at the start, we would normally recommend to install this system onto a stud frame, de-coupled from the wall but this customer wanted to keep space loss to a minimum. So we installed direct to the wall. If you wanted to build a stud wall, then the ReductoClip system, then a gap, then another stud wall, then the ReductoClip system again.... yes this would be very high performing, but it would also take up a minimum of 240mm (using 50mm stud work). So very few people would want to lose that much space. It also depends on the level of the noise you are trying to block out. The initial system blocks 65dB on average which is already extremely high (on one stud frame). This would block out most peoples noise problem already. So you would potentially double your cost and double your space loss for no extra gain. Soundproofing is a little like "how long is a piece of string", you could install 10 ReductoClip systems back to back and it would technically be brilliant. But would you have actually gained any extra benefit from one?
Soundproofing Store thank you for your response, I wasn’t trying to bring any criticism or negativity your way, and I was thinking more as I want to build a music studio in my back garden! Yes I keep forgetting about space it would take up! Sorry should have posted on this on the music studio build page! That ReductoClip system is very clever!
@@bhaveshsolanki6485 Hi Bhavesh, no offense or negativity taken at all. Just trying to explain why we wouldn't normally do that as best I can. So yes, if you want to go further and get even better results there are better ways or thinner ways to upgrade the system than doubling the entire system up. If you want to talk with us about your studio project, get in touch through the website. Our specialist studio team can talk you through options and help you with the soundproofing design.
What materials would I need for maximum noise cancellation? Please give me a list of materials so I can price my job
Hi Jonathan Mcrae, it depends on what type of noise you are trying to block and where. e.g. is it being heard through a wall, floor or ceiling (or a combination)? If a wall, then our highest performing solution is the ReductoClip Independent Wall System:
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Please do call us on 01423 206208 so we can discuss your noise issue with you in more detail and advise on the correct soundproofing solution. For a quote, we'd need to know the dimensions of your wall. Please see the below quote form:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/get-a-quote#Wallquote
How much sound proofing do you loose when not using a wooden frame and clipping straight to the brick wall ? Also our house is one of the constant pour concrete homes thrown up in the 1940s , would this system work on concrete homes ?
Hi CM 17, the ReductoClip Independent System (with the stud frame) will give the highest performance, especially against lower bass frequencies as it is completely decoupled from the original structure. The ReductoClip Direct to Wall will still give a good improvement and is a good compromise for customers who can't lose 120mm from their original wall due to door openings etc.
It very much depends on the type of noise and levels of noise that you are trying to soundproof against. Our recommendation would be to give us a call on (01423) 206208 and we can advise further.
Would the newly soundproofed wall be able to support the weight of shelves?
We currently have bookshelves in our alcoves, just wondering if we could put these back on, or would the walls have to remain bare afterwards?
Hi Martyn John - Thanks for the question. It depends how much weight will be getting added. The clips do have a maximum weight capacity, although it is very high, it's already carrying the weight of the soundproofing. Adding things like pictures, mirrors etc isn't an issue but multiple book shelves could end up taking up a lot of weight. One thing you can do is increase the amount of ReductoClips you use, install them at closer spacings, that increases the weight capacity of the wall. Or use a free standing shelving unit in front of the wall.
This seems like one of the most effective systems I've seen. Still, if it was up to me, I would have designed the system with an elastic interface between the ReductoClips and the metal profiles. This would reduce the possibility of a rattling sound in certain conditions or sound waves.
Hi TheCubicPlanet, the Reducto furring bars clip in tightly to the ReductoClips and we've never had any instances of rattling.
There is also the large amount of mass added to the system which coupled with the resilience of the ReductoClips is there to help reduce all noise types from low pitch to high pitch frequencies, so there certainly wouldn't be any rattling sounds heard from the system.
If you intend on having a decorative acoustic wood panel as your final layer. Could that replace the need for the second layer of plasterboard?
Hi lee white, you will definitely still need the second layer of acoustic plasterboard as this is an important part of the full system. The wooden 'decorative' layer wouldn't be a substitute for the (important) extra mass the second layer of acoustic plasterboard adds.
With regards to the wooden panels, we can also help with this if needed:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/Acoustic-Timber-Slatted-Panels
How do you put in electrical sockets etc - will that affect the soundproofing? Also can add shelves to the wall after completion?
Hi Tim Fay, ideally removing plug sockets and moving them to a different wall would be the preferred option. However, if this isn't possible, then fit the soundproofing across the whole wall, make a small hole, pull the cable for the socket through and then fill with acoustic sealant. Refitting the socket as a surface mounted socket.
The last and least preferred option is to fit the soundproofing around the socket and fit a socket putty pad in the back box of the socket.
With regards to shelving, you can fit shelves as long as they are attached through the furring bar and there are enough clips to support the weight. This blog explains it in more detail:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-install-a-tv-or-radiator-onto-the-reductoclip-systems
With all that weight hanging on wall screws is it possibly to tile on top of the whole lot when it's done. I can't see wall screws coping with all that weight, plasterboard, heavy rubber, tiles etc
The system is designed and secured with correct fixings so any final wall finish is suitable. We have many customers install the system on a kitchen wall and tile as a final finish.
Hi, would this system work on an attic conversion? Wondering about the weight on already plaster boarded sloping ceilings?
Hi @stevekettel188, absolutely, but the recommendation would be to remove the plasterboard first. Another popular choice for attic conversions is the SoundBoard4 which is a direct to wall soundproofing panel. More information can be found here:
th-cam.com/video/FqG0F4In74c/w-d-xo.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundboard-4
It really depends on the level and type of noise you are trying to soundproof against. Feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 and we will happily advise on the correct system for your situation.
My neighbours always slam their doors and their kids keep running around the house, will this help reduce the noise levels?
Hi @SakataSamig, this will certainly help if the impact vibration from them running and slamming doors is coming through the walls. The recommendation would be to use the ReductoClip Independent Wall System which fully decouples from the offending wall. More info can be found here:
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Please feel free to call us and we can discuss your noise issue in more detail and advise on the best solution (01423) 206208.
I have 2 alcoves in my Semi detached house that I am considering doing this with. I am limited to space but would like to use this system on a frame. As its an old house the plaster is very thick is I'm considering removing the plaster to brick and starting from there (bare brick wall), my question is - will the mass loss from the plaster be greater than the mass gained using this on a frame as opposed to just doing direct to wall???? Hope this makes sense!
Hi matthew rose, the higher performing system will be the ReductoClip Independent system on a frame and will give you a much higher result even with the plaster removed. Details of this system can be found here:
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Space loss for this system is only 120mm. If you can afford to lose this space with the plaster on, then our advice would be to leave it on. However, as mentioned, removing the plaster and doing the independent system will be higher performing than the direct to wall with the plaster.
If I don’t use ReductoClips and just use mass loaded vinyl, green glue, and a 5/8 inch of QuietRock dry wall over my existing wall, will that be enough to significantly reduce impact noises from the neighbor I share a wall with? Or are the ReductoClips absolutely necessary to achieve this?
Hi @lemoine.music1, without the ReductoClips there is limited damping to help absorb the impact noises and vibration energy coming from your neighbours. In an ideal world you'd need to isolate (or decouple) from your original wall using the ReductoClip Independent Wall System as this creates a physical gap making it much harder for the sound to travel through the offending wall.
These videos might be of interest:
1. ReductoClip, highest level of soundproofing for walls & ceilings:
th-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/w-d-xo.html
2. Does Green Glue work for soundproofing:
th-cam.com/video/DJFhAk5Sg6E/w-d-xo.html
3. How to soundproof a wall with the ReductoClip Independent Wall System:
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
So wall one side of the chimney breast - and then the other side - but how would you deal with the chimney breast itself? We have two rooms, both with large chimney breasts - and while the system looks great, if noise still comes through the 'un-proofed' sections it would be a waste of time, money and effort?
Hi M K Kelly, the customer in the video didn't want to soundproof the chimney in this instance and even without doing so, the ReductoClip System made a big difference to the noise they were experiencing before the soundproofing and the improvement after doing the alcoves:
th-cam.com/video/VqHEVcBZt6M/w-d-xo.html
In the majority of cases the chimney breast doesn't need soundproofing as it has much more mass than the alcoves (often a double layer of firebricks) and therefore naturally helps to block more noise. We would always recommend doing an ear test when you can hear the unwanted noise and listen to the noise coming through the alcoves and also the chimney and compare the difference. If you can hear noise coming through the chimney, then you will need to treat the chimney breast too: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
I notice that the squares/rectangles of Rockwool that have been stuck to the wall between the resilient bars aren't filling the whole space between the bars. Why is that? Is it beneficial to fill the whole space or not?
Hi Marge, this is a common question and it comes from a slight misunderstanding of the use of mineral wool. Mineral wool doesn't soundproof, it isn't there to create a barrier to block sound. That is what the plasterboard and TecSound is there for. Mineral wool is only there because if you have an empty cavity (like that between the wall and plasterboard), sound will resonate and amplify in there. By having a decent amount of absorbing material in that cavity it stops the sound from resonating. You don't need to fill the space, it just needs to be a decent amount. Its similar to when you decorate a room and you take out all the soft furnishings, the room has more echo. When you put the soft furnishings back in, the echo goes away. But you've not filled the entire room from floor to ceiling with soft furnishings. You've just got a decent amount in there Hope that makes sense.
Is that second layer of plasterboard not on the same horizontal joint as the first layer? surely if you staggered the vertical joint you should also do the same horizontally .
Hi phoebe Andia, due to the Tecsound layer in the middle there is no continuous seam. In an ideal world, yes, however, the practicality of lifting a very heavy platerboard layer up into a top corner isn't the easiest and with the benefits being negligible.
Hi, would this system be just as affective against a joining wall that's been dot and dabbed and plastered or would we need to remove the plasterboard and go back to the block?
Hi ScottieAFC _ yes, we would advise for any dot and dab to be removed prior to installation. This blog goes into more detail about why:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/why-is-dot-and-dab-plasterboard-bad-for-soundproofing
@@SoundproofingStore awesome, ive made contact with you online, you've responded with a quote. Thank you, I'll give you a call if my discussion with NHBC leads to nothing.
@@scottie3083 Hope all goes well and you know where we are, should you have any further questions 01423 206208.
I am about to order my product after i have remeasured again. 60mm of loss is one of the thinnest solutions i have been. I do have a question you guys might be able tot answer. The wall i am gonna install it on is a cavity wall shared with the neighbours. Do you think it will be worth to install wooly insulation into thé cavity wall?
Hi It is almost imposable to get access to this void area to insert mineral wool and in most cases this void is there to help the property breath so it should not be filled. any questions please call us on 01423 206208
So after the installation, do you just plaster the walls ready for painting, or is it wallpaper only or both?
Hi Guy Willoughby - Yes just finish like any other plasterboard wall. A plaster skim would be perfect to cover up screw heads and seems, a thick lining paper should also do the job if needs be, but a skim is ideal.
The screws for the second plaster board what size are you using, and do the self tap into the bar as well? Also do you do lager clips as i have 50 mm insulation, or is there a way around this,
Hi The Mad Dogs BTD, 25mm screws for the first layer and 50mm for the second layer and yes, they are self drilling screws. You'd need to use 25mm Insulation with the ReductoClip™ Direct to Wall system.
The only instance whereby you could use the 50mm insulation, would be if you were installing the ReductoClip™ Independent System: th-cam.com/video/4VpNzFYkA9M/w-d-xo.html
Hello im a bit limited for space in my lounge (most effected room) and was wondering if i did the system in the video what level of noise reduction would i get as oposed to building the stud wall 1st ?
Hi @elliottwaterson5785, please find below the links to the performance figures for both systems:
irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Independent%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf
irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Direct%20To%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf
It really depends on the level and type of noise you are trying to soundproof against. The ReductoClip Independent system will always provide the highest level of soundproofing due to fully decoupling the soundproofing layers, making it much more difficult for sound to travel through. However, the ReductoClip Direct to Wall system is an excellent choice when space constraints are an issue but a high performing solution is still required.
Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can discuss the noise(s) you are trying to block and advise accordingly.
Will this work on homes in the US? I can’t find the materials you used
Hi Ankit Shah, unfortunately we don't ship to the US.
How much would something like this cost?
Based on a 4m x 2.4m wall it works out at approx £72 + vat per Sqm. If you contact the store we can put an estimate together for your own wall dimensions.
Do you recommend removing dot and dab
Hi adrian heritage, it's really down to personal choice. (We don't recommend either way). The ReductoClip™ can be fixed through the dot and dab using long enough screws, or it can be removed and the ReductoClip installed onto the brick. It won't make a difference either way.
Can this be used on ceilings? If so might be worth a video! I'm looking to insulate my flat from the neighbour above - would make a great video if you need a casestudy!
Hi Augerman, absolutely, the ReductoClip system can be used on ceilings. Take a look here for more details: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings
@@SoundproofingStore what about adding the reducto layer on top of existing aster board, exactly as you did here, to save some space and also in the case landlord forbids demolition.
@@SonDialer yes, as the video shows, you can indeed install the system directly to the existing wall to save space.
Is there also a 5mm gap used around the perimeter of the TecSound rubber insulation?
Hi Miklos Forgolányi
, because the Tecsound is a soft material and doesn't aid the transfer of sound energy, it is fine to touch the walls and ceiling.
What's the likelihood if I just insulated the alcoves that I get just as much noise from chimney stack/floor/ceiling and therefore have wasted my money? I can hear Ring alerts, loud yawns and some conversations next door. If they play music I might as well be in the same room.
Hi GameOverFool, if the unwanted noise is coming through the party wall, in the majority of cases the chimney breast doesn't need soundproofing as it already contains more mass than the alcoves and is therefore naturally more effective at blocking noise. Usually chimney breasts feature a double layer of fire bricks which are far heavier and more dense than standard bricks. An easy way to check this would be to do a simple ear test to the alcoves and chimney when you can hear the noise and compare the difference. If you need to soundproof the chimney breast then you can also do this.
This article might be of interest:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
Just a quick question.. on your website you note a 65db reduction in sound overall. But on most of the examples on your channel, you only note a 15db reduction. Is there a reason for this please ?
Hi Jack H - Great question. The 65dB reduction is for our Independent ReductoClip system. The direct to wall system as used in this video is 55dB. This is the total reduction from one side of the wall to the other, in other words, that includes the wall as well. The 15dB is the improvement by adding the soundproofing to the wall. In other words, on an average brick party wall that would be reducing around 40dB to start with, this system will improve the performance by roughly 15dB so the total reduction is now 55dB. The Independent system has an average improvement of more like 25dB, getting a 40dB wall to 65dB total reduction. Hope that makes sense.
Hi, do you have a dedicated team who specialise in installing this system in Scotland, few local companies but are all too expensive
Hi David, the system is relatively straight forward to install, we do say a competent DIYer should be perfectly capable. If not, just a local tradesman with drywall / joinery type skills is all that is needed. They don't need to be experienced soundproofing installers as the installing skills involved are basic trade skills. We don't have our own installation teams.
Does it blocks impact noises like stomping, moving heavy object , and stomping?
Hi Migniel Doll, yes this system certainly reduces impact noises, aslong as the impact noise is definitely travelling through the wall and not leaking in through your floor.
After you've skimmed a wall that has movement in it, will there not be cracks around the perimeter of the soundproofed wall? Or do you recommend maintaining the 5mm gap when skimming and fill with acoustic sealant and then paint straight onto the sealant?
Hi Jake Whittingham, although the wall does have movement, realistically the amount that the wall physically moves due to sound is microscopic. 99% of our clients will plaster over the entire wall, and to date we have never had a client mention cracking in the plaster. So you should be absolutely fine. The other 1% will use a thick lining paper and then paint instead of plaster, but plaster is certainly preferable.
@@SoundproofingStore having used the system and decorated afterwards what I did was use plasterers fibre tape over the edge sealant all the way around the perimeter. Plastered all the way to the surrounding walls then ran another bead of sealant around the perimeter and smoothed it in with a finger before paint. System fitted 2 months ago and no cracks have appeared.
Plasterer/multi trader
Why not plasterboard horizontally instead of having a jigsaw mess?! Would of been simpler I bet your guys didn’t think of that till after. Using the excuses for the wall lol 😜 in all honesty though it’s looks like a brilliant system and I imagine works all the same. Hoping to install it myself!
Hi Peter Smith, it is indeed a brilliant system, and feel free to call us on 01423 206208 should you have any questions when you look to install the system yourself, we'd be more than happy to help.
With regards to the plasterboard going on horizontally, not really sure what the benefit would be here, as the boards would still have to be cut to fit the width of the alcove, and two boards on top of each other would still be short of the ceiling height. Therefore, the second board would need to be cut lower and a third board fixed above to make up the height. Also, without having an endless supply of boards on site, we also decided on board cuts to maximize the boards we had and minimise wastage.
Can I ask why you didn't need to cover all the wall with mineral wool? There is loads of space around it so will that not reduce its effectiveness?
Hi Michael, this is a common question and it comes from a slight misunderstanding of the use of mineral wool. Mineral wool doesn't soundproof, it isn't there to create a barrier to block sound. That is what the plasterboard and TecSound is there for. Mineral wool is only there because if you have an empty cavity (like that between the wall and plasterboard), sound will resonate and amplify in there. By having a decent amount of absorbing material in that cavity it stops the sound from resonating. You don't need to fill the space, it just needs to be a decent amount. Its similar to when you decorate a room and you take out all the soft furnishings, the room has more echo. When you put the soft furnishings back in, the echo goes away. But you've not filled the entire room from floor to ceiling with soft furnishings. You've just got a decent amount in there Hope that makes sense.
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you for your swift reply. That makes sense. I need my alcoves done in my back room. How should I go about getting a quote from you? Can I just email you with photos, dimensions etc? Thank you
@@floyd666uk No worries. You can either pop us an email with your dimensions, or fill in one of our contact forms on the website with your dimensions. Or give us aa call on 01423 206208. We can then give you lots of info and put together a material estimate for you.
What if I have to pass my Audio wires going to the speaker then how do I seal that going through the drywall…Pls leme know…Thanks a lot
The best option is bring the wires through the layers using as small a hole as possible. Seal with acosutic sealant. For studios customers will do this all in one place and then use trunking to run the cables around the room.
I noticed a gap with the 25mm soundproofing glued to the wall , why was that? do I have to remove wallpaper from the area to be soundproofed?
Hi Les Wall - this is a common question and it comes from a slight misunderstanding of the use of mineral wool. Mineral wool doesn't soundproof, it isn't there to create a barrier to block sound. That is what the plasterboard and TecSound is there for. Mineral wool is only there because if you have an empty cavity (like that between the wall and plasterboard), sound will resonate and amplify in there. By having a decent amount of absorbing material in that cavity it stops the sound from resonating. You don't need to fill the space, it just needs to be a decent amount. It's similar to when you decorate a room and you take out all the soft furnishings, the room has more echo. When you put the soft furnishings back in, the echo goes away. But you've not filled the entire room from floor to ceiling with soft furnishings. You've just got a decent amount in there Hope that makes sense. Regarding wallpaper, you shouldn't need to remove wallpaper, you can install the system over the top, however, if the wall has "dot and dab" plasterboard in front of the wall instead of plaster directly on the brick wall, this will need to be removed.
@@SoundproofingStore Thanks for the info , I've got my quote , just got to make a our mind up on getting it done
@@leswall3061 pleasure. You know where we are if we can be of any further help.
If the walls got some flex to it how does the finishing plaster stop from cracking around the edges?
Hi Dave Cotty 83, the flex absorbing the sound energy is microscopic. You would never know the wall was soundproofed to look at it and it is no more likely to crack than a standard plastered wall.
My property is separated be plasterboard then concrete panel then plasterboard. We hear airborne noise up stairs from adjoining downs stairs. The question is can I just do our bedroom or my do I have to do my downstairs aswell
Hi Dez hull, have you tried doing an ear test when you can hear the noise? Do it on the bedroom party wall, then on the floor of the bedroom and also on the party wall downstairs and listen to what you can hear. If you can hear it through the floor, then it is most likely also coming through the party wall downstairs. Just doing the bedroom wall will certainly help reduce the noise, but if sound is also travelling through the downstairs party wall, then to achieve the best results, both walls would need doing.
@@SoundproofingStore thanks for the information 🙏 il check out your website
@@dezhull3311 pleasure. Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 if we can help with anything further.
For next door neighbor, do you need to do the ceil wall?
Sorry @kennethz4466 I don't understand the question. What is a ceil wall?
@@SoundproofingStore I mean the wall above your head.
@@kennethz3366 sorry I still don't understand what you mean. Are you talking about noise from neighbours above you coming down through your ceiling? It may be best for you to give us a call so we can have a proper conversation about it.
why didn't they stuff the empty spaces in the wall with the foam properly? so much gaps.
Hi o o - We get a lot of comments about. Its about understanding what it's actually there for. Acoustic mineral wool (or "the foam"), isn't soundproofing. It isn't there to block sound. Thats what the plasterboard and TecSound layers are there for. The only reason the insulation is there is because if you leave a hollow cavity, sound will echo and resonate inside the cavity and amplify. To stop this, you need some absorbent material. That absorbent material doesn't need to completely fill the space or cover the wall, you just need a decent amount in there. Completely covering the wall and jamming it in wouldn't improve performance at all. Its like if you take all the soft furnishings out of a room (carpet, curtains, sofa, cushions), the room has more echo, if you put them back in, the echo reduces. You didn't need to fill the entire volume of the room with soft furnishings to achieve that.
Would it be the same install around the chimney breast?
Hi steven kearns, can you hear noise coming through the chimney breast? Next time you can hear the noise, do an ear test to the alcoves and the chimney and compare how much noise you can hear. Often the chimney breast doesn't need soundproofing, as chimney breasts are usually constructed with a double layer of fire bricks, which are far heavier and more dense than the bricks usually used in the alcoves. (Therefore the chimney breast naturally has more mass and is therefore usually more effective at blocking noise).
This blog goes into more detail:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
However, you can indeed soundproof the chimney breast using the ReductoClip System if noise can be heard - this blog shows how:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-against-awkward-areas
Hi would this help with Noisey Neighbours? I live in a mid terrace, on one side I can hear walking across the floor very loud and conversations clearly, on the other side I hear their toilet flushing and water running, on both sides I hear light switches and plugs being inserted, is there any way too dampen all of this to the maximum I can? Selling up isn’t an option as the house isn’t owned by myself but I’m at my wits end
Hi King B, yes absolutely. The reductoClip direct to wall system is an excellent solution for noisy neighbours at only 60mm space loss. To further improve this solution, a stud frame can be built in front of the existing wall to further decouple any sound transference and the system build up is then added to the stud frame rather than the existing wall. This solution is the ReductoClip Independent Wall System and is our highest performing solution (120mm space loss). Please see the below links:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
The best advice would be to call us on 01423 206208 and we can discuss your situation in more detail with you and avdvise on the most appropriate solution.
Hi, just curious if you guys travel to do this or is there anywhere in ireland that does the same?
Hi John Cena, we can ship the system to you and supply detailed installation guides. The ReductoClip™ Direct to Wall System can be installed by a competent DIYer (as shown in the video) or local tradesperson. We would recommend two people to install the system due to the heavy nature of some of the materials.
@@SoundproofingStore it’s definitely a two man job with 15mm soundbloc.
Surely the screw fixings for the clips into the wall create a by-pass for the sound transmission?
The sound wave is going to be hitting the plasterboard layers first, so the fact that these are now de-coupled and resilient allows them to absorb a huge amount of that energy. So while you are corrcet to a degree that some small amount of the energy can still get to the screws and therefore the wall, this is a tiny percentage of what previously would have been hitting the entire solid surface of the wall. So by minimizing that contact surface area it gives a big reduction. The only way to further improve results would be to build a completely indpendent wall as we mention in the video. However this takes up a lot more space that many people just aren't able to lose. More info on our independent system here - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Hello! How much would this whole thing cost for the size of wall in the video? And how does it compare to the same area with SoundBoard 4?
Hi @Maffoo the whole material cost for this job was just under £1000 for around 10m2. In terms of cost this system is more expensive, The SoundBoard 4 system for the same area would work out around £600 - £700. However, this system blocks a lot more sound and a wider range of sounds. SoundBoard 4 is ideal for mid - high frequency sounds such as voices, but struggles with impact sounds such as banging doors, footfall etc and struggles with low frequencies such as bass from tv's, music systems etc. The ReductoClip system on the other hand, can reduce all of these sounds to a good level.
@@SoundproofingStore Do you supply labour as well as materials?
@@HektorBandimar we don't install the systems ourselves, however - we do supply comprehensive installation guides and videos and are available to answer any questions. Our systems can be installed by a competent DIYer (we recommend 2 people to install the ReductoClip™ Systems). Alternatively, for anyone not feeling confident enough to do the installation themselves, a local tradesperson would have no difficulty. There is also a list of installers on our website who are experienced in installing our systems, (but don't work for The Soundproofing Store): www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/installation
How do you avoid chimney vents at the top on the breast ? If they are very near the party wall.
Hi kool123g, you can't avoid the vent. The vent will need to be either moved or blocked up. Otherwise sound will just bypass the soundproofing via the vent.
How would you deal with flanking noise coming around the wall such as under the floor or ceiling void?
Hi Justin Phillips, firstly, in most cases, the vast majority of the sound you hear will come straight through the wall. Therefore by just addressing the wall, this is going to make a significant difference in most cases. If you can clearly hear that you do have sound coming from the floor or ceiling in your situation, then installing an acoustic mineral wool insulation between the joists will help with that. We would recommend to install the mineral wool all along the wall and around 1 - 1.5m into the room.
soundproofingstore.uk/product/acoustic-mineral-wool-60kg/
What type of screw did you use to secure the top layer of plasterboard to the first layer?
Hi poulter653 - 50mm length self drilling plasterboard screws.
@@SoundproofingStore thanks for the quick response!
Hi. I looking to sound proof my party wall but is brick wall with dot and dab plasterboard Can i install this sistem on dot and bad plasterboard wall or should i remove the plasterboard first?
Thank you
Hi Ionut, we would recommend removing the dot and dab first if possible. The below blog goes into more detail as to why:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/why-is-dot-and-dab-plasterboard-bad-for-soundproofing
If you have any questions, or need any help please feel free to call us on 01423 206208.
You also need to soundproof the cieling to get full beneif
Hi jonneymendoza - It really isn't that black and white, every situation is different. If you can hear sound come through the ceiling then yes you're correct, if you can't then you're wasting your money soundproofing it. All depends on the cosntruction, connections to neighbours, noise type etc.
@@SoundproofingStore that's good to know. I was just reading up on this topic and came across information stating that we should also soundproof the ceiling too. Good if not needed as I could just do the partition walls and do so myself as I will just need to order the material and parts
What average reduction in magnitude of airborne noise transmission do you typically achieve with this system, and across what frequency spectrum?
Hi The Dub Whisperer - Thanks for your question. Tricky question, as obviously every situation is different, so it depends on the noise being experienced, the type of wall / property it is being installed on etc. But as an average we achieve a 16dB (Rw) improvement to the performance of the existing wall, or a total reduction of 57dB (Rw+Ctr) installed on a single brick wall. This is tested to ISO 717-1 so is only tested bewteen 100Hz - 3150Hz. A real world test performance report can be downloaded here - irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/28aa4e38/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Wall%20Performance%20Data.pdf
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you. I had in my head it was about 15-20dB. Many thanks for the detailed reply.
@@thedubwhisperer2157 No worries. Yes absolutely, up in the higher frequencies 20+dB is very achievable, it's the trickier lower end that drags down the average. If you do have space to build a de-coupled stud frame, and install the system onto that, you can achieve even higher performance - th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
@@SoundproofingStore Thanks again. If only flanking noise was this easy to eliminate Some of my walls are 1m thick stone, but the house is built on bedrock...
@@thedubwhisperer2157 Ah, flanking can be a real nightmare in some properties. Its a case of spending time really narrowing down what surfaces sound is eminating from, and addressing those surfaces the best you can. But if its coming through everywhere, that can end up being very costly unfortunately.
Hi everyone, is there anybody in the London area that can install the Soundproofing Store products, thank you
Hi @user-bw7uz7tq1l, a local tradesperson will have no problem installing any of our soundproofing systems. They can also be installed by a competent DIYer (as was the case in this video). A member of the team will also happily talk through the installation process and answer any questions should the person installing it have any (as and when you find someone).
Why you aren't filling the whole wall with insulation?
Hi odarkos - Great question, one we do get asked a lot. There is a mis understanding with soundproofing that the insulation is the part that is blocking the sound. This is incorrect. Insulation doesn't block any sound. The heavy mass layers on the front of the system are creating the barrier to block the sound, so these need to cover the entire wall and be completely sealed. The insulation is purely there because we have created a cavity between the wall and plasterboard, and if not insulated the sound will bounce around and resonate and amplify in that cavity. The insulation helps to soak up that sound and stop that from happening. You don't need to completely fill a space to achieve that, you just need a decent amount. So putting a slab bewteen each furring bar is more than enough insulation to achieve that. It also then makes sure that the insulation isn't packed up against the furring channels and hindering their ability to flex and dampen the vibration. Hope that all made sense.
Do you leave a 5mm gap on the techsound too
Hi Rich Benjamin, Technically you want a 5mm gap all the way around on every layer, but actually with the Tecsound being flexible and absorbing, it doesn't matter if the Tecsound does touch the edges, as long as the plasterboard doesn't.
@@SoundproofingStore ok thanks
@@SoundproofingStore can i put green glue on the back of the second plasterboard or do you think that would not help
@@richbenjamin7815 Green glue wouldn't add any benefit here. Green glue is just designed to add a small amount of dampening between two plasterboards. TecSound (being visco elastic) already adds this dampening between the boards, so Green glue would add no extra benefit.
@@SoundproofingStore thank you
I think we should put that glue over neighbor's speackers and some in their throat 😆😎
What size wall plugs do you need for these screws?
Hi Connor Cusack, you need brown coloured plugs. So they are about 7mm diameter which is ideal for 5-6mm diameter screws recommend.
Do you sell and ship to the Southern California?
Hello peTeMelster, thanks for your comment. I'm afraid we don't ship to America.
@@SoundproofingStore Do you ship to Isle of Man?
@@HektorBandimar We can deliver to a freight forwarding depot within the UK for the materials to then be shipped to the Isle of Man. This would need to be arranged by yourself. Alternatively, you could arrange for a courier to collect the materials.
If one is trying to soundproof a room from street noise, can this be done on the outside of the wall or has to be done inside the room?
Hi Ali Sid, It depends on the exact situation, but generally if you have noise from outside getting in, its usually not the wall that is the problem, but in fact your windows or doors. External walls are generally very good at blocking sound, made up of multiple layers of dense brick / block with a cavity. The weak point is the windows and doors that have far less mass than the rest of the wall. So unless this is a timber constructed wall, I would be looking at upgrading your windows instead of soundproofing the walls.
@@SoundproofingStore windows are sealed. Its a concrete wall but that does'nt stop all noise. I dont want to lose space inside my room so thinking about de coupling from the outside
@@alisid4947 It doesn't matter if the windows are sealed, the glass itself has only a small fraction of the mass of the concrete wall. So its more likely the sound is coming straight through the glass, than straight through the concrete. You can test it by using your ears. When you can hear sound outside, stand in front of a solid part of the wall, put your ear near to the wall but not against it, and get a good sense of what you can hear, then stand in front of the window and put your ear near the window and compare. Its very likely you'll notice more sound is coming through when you are stood in front of the window. If not, if it is the wall, then yes, a de-coupled system like our ReductoClip system would be perfect, and you would install this on the inside. But based on my years of experience, I would say its 95% likely that the sound is coming through the window more than the wall.In which case, you'll need to look into secondary glazing to upgrade the performance of the window.
@@SoundproofingStore mate, windows have been sealed with cement. Concrete as far as I know, n i may be wrong, blocks sound to a certain extent. i live next to very noisey trafic n a mosque with loud speakers..Thanks to silicone ear plugs i am able to get a goodnight sleep most of the time, otherwise the noise is a bit challenging, especially coming from the mosque more than the trafic. I was able to soundproof one room in my house to a certain extent with the mehods you suggested in your video n thinking about doing it to other rooms as well.
@@alisid4947 Hi Ali, sorry I think you're mis understanding me. Its nothing to do with the seal. The perimeter can be a weakness, so being well sealed is a good thing, but regardless of how well sealed it is, the sound can come through the actual glass itself. Sound is blocked by mass, mass is basically weight. So the heavier and more dense a material is, the more sound it blocks. Glass has nowhere near the same amount of mass as the concrete wall. So forgetting the seal, the sound can be coming through the actual glass window far more easily than it can come through the concrete. So in 95% of cases like this, the window needs upgrading, by installing a secondary glazing internally. Again, the only way to know is to do the ear test and listen at the wall and listen at the window and see where the sound is coming through.
Hi, how much would it cost to cover a wall roughly 3.8m(w) to 2.6m (h) using this method?
And how thick is this overall?
Hi As a rough guide for the dimensions provided the cost would be £851 including Delivery and VAT, if you would like a full estimate please call us on 01423206208
@@rubyg8389 the ReductoClip™ Direct to Wall system is 60mm. (60mm build-up from the original wall).
Stupid question - do I have to remove my wallpaper before starting?
Hi Fatty, not a stupid question at all. There is no need to remove your wallpaper. You would however need to remove any dot and dab.
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you - one further question - our deviding wall is breeze block - cavity - breeze block. I keep reading that this type of system wouldn't work for this installation due to the flanking properties of breeze blocks?
@@MrAllister88 if the noise is travelling through the wall, then the system will work. However, you need to check for flanking noise travelling through the other walls, floor and/or ceiling and treat accordingly. (Do an ear test to see where else the noise is flanking).
The installation of the ReductoClip™ direct to wall system will work, regardless of the construction of the wall. Only made slightly more awkward if you drill into a cavity when installing. However, we would recommend the ReductoClip™ Independent System: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Soundproofing the alcoves has very little effect if the neighbour has the tv on the wall or chimney breast. It’s the modern curse. Sound travels through the chimney breast as well as alcoves and flank walls.
Mounted TV's can definitely complicate things. We always say, every property is different and every noise problem is different, there is never a one size fits all solution. In a lot of cases, the majority if not all the sound comes through the alcoves, this is what we hear from our customer's hundreds of times a week, but there are situations like mounted tv's that can change that. Its about spending the time to really listen to your own property and narrow down exactly where the sound is emanating from.
@@SoundproofingStore I live in a small but quaint cottage with no back windows or access. As with many little cottages in the area, it is double fronted with the garden and access at the front. The terraced cottages are adjoined at the laterals or sides with no adjoining houses/ buildings at the back. This means the back wall of the lounge/bedroom is also the flanking wall. There are no windows in the rear wall.
The new neighbours mounted the tv on the chimney breast. Checking alcoves and chimney breast as recommended I can clearly hear the tv through the brickwork of the alcoves, chimney breast and rear flanking wall There is a small, sealed opening at the foot of the chimney breast where the old fireplace used to be. The noise is louder in this little area. The noise travels up the walls into the bedroom above meaning there is no respite in the bedroom.
Because of the way the cottage is constructed, at certain sound frequencies, the rear alcove part of the lounge adjoining wall seems to reverberate or ‘echo’ the sound as it bounces through the chimney breast, alcove and rear/flanking wall. I can also hear sneezes, when they talk loudly, coughs etc.
I am guessing both lounge and bedroom alcoves, chimney breasts and rear flanking walls would need treatment. Factoring in moving of radiators, plugs, repairs to carpets, re-fitting skirting boards, plastering plus labour costs as I’m not a skilled DIYer (nor do I have the tools), I reckon I’m looking at £10-12k plus min 4” reduction in room width and depth on adjoins/rear flank walls.
@@wolves201 given everything you've highlighted above, our best advice would be to call us on (01423) 206208 so we can discuss this with you in more detail. If you have the dimensions of your walls, you can also e-mail them to us at sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk and we can provide you with an estimate. The two alcoves in the above video were circa 10m2 (combined) and for the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System shown, the cost of materials for both alcoves came in at just under £1,000 including VAT and delivery.
i found rails and plaster boards act like a drum skin i removed plsater boards to concrete bloks and you could hardly hear any sound now
Hi Paul, this can happen if the cavity isn't insulated. This is why we add 25mm of 60kg/m3 acoustic mineral wool in the cavity to stop sound from resonating behind the plasterboard. Building a nother block wall is not a very practical solution for most people though, so they need to do something and with as little space loss as possible.
@@SoundproofingStore i have a nx doors boiler on my party wall it vibraites and makes humming sound thts on every wall in my houses its driving me nutts had envirementhal officer out and he said if you put tell y on it would drown the noise out but it doseant the hummings in you ears it wakes us up every morning when they put their boiler on they rent the house land lord wont do out i think their boilers is f...... pump etc 3 yers ago i went to a sound proofing company they sold me the rails i put sound proofing plaster boards to them with the wool inulation but i did not put the rubber screen aross my living room wall wot they told me to do and the humming vibration off their boiler is still their the thing is be for i put new rails on and when i stripped my plaster boards off to reveal the concreet bloks you could hardly hear any vibration or humming wondering if i should take the acutic boards i put up off and just get concrete bloks skimmed over with cement as thirs no plaster boards to act like a drum skin
@@tanglewood777 It depends what rail system was used, there are many different types and they are not all equal. Some like our ReductoClip system are designed to dampen that vibration and energy, some don't absorb as much, some are just fixing channels that don't absorb anything. If the wall was actually performing well in the first place and therefore didn't actually need soundproofing (determined by the fact that it performed better when you removed the plasterboard), this would suggest that the rails may have just been channels to fix the plasterboard to, not necessarily a soundproofing system. The problem in most cases is that the block wall isn't do ing the job, so you need to add something to it to improve the performance.