We are in a terrace and had new neighbours who were making noise 3 - 4 times a week sometimes all the way through the night to 7-8am. Started off politely asking to calling the cops to having a meltdown and nearly having an all in brawl in the middle of the street at 4am. Thanks god they just moved out but I am still going to do this to the party wall. I think I was not far off a full mental episode.
Very well explained. I bought a maisonette recently with my wife. The banging from upstairs is relentless and made us mentally and physically ill (not stomping) I spent months researching sound waves and soundproofing and found just how difficult it is to stop physical impact noise directly onto a surface. I soundproofed a small room and replaced an entire wall that would vibrate and rattle the radiator underneath them. It helped but ultimately in extreme situations like ours the only shelter was to find a room they are least active, purchase a sound bar with a subwoofer and play Deep brown noise (sounds like being on an aeroplane). Its important to try to match the frequency of the noise you are experiencing and this will mask the nuisance. We've lived in our bedroom for about 18months now. We ended up finding out that the previous owners lied on their information form about complaining about neighbours so we took legal action. We reached a settlement that is enough to help us move on soon. I'm happy to talk about it if anyone needs help. Living uncomfortably and depressed is nothing anyone should go through, no matter what is causing it
I am now living the nightmare of a little boy back to back in my bedroom, kill me now. I have half bricks cemented to my wal, the LL had done 2 lawyers of sheetrock on thier side while that apt was vacant, sadly, I still hear the impact noises. Some times it doesnt bother me, other times it makes me insane. I am almost at the point where I want to reverse my bedroom and living room as im in my bedroom more....and then close the door. just had to vent, last night I wanted to scream.
I sympathise. It can be debillitating, to have one's home invaded by noise. You are not alone. It's almost as if all attached houses were built to create these problems on purpose.
Fun fact - from my experiance with lousy/noisy neighbours - sound can travel around that barrier if ceiling, floor or adjacent walls aren't insulated to the same extent. All in all i got two lessons out of my case 1) it's more effective to insulate at the source, 2) it's more (cost, time, health) effective to move out.
It is an issue when you buy a house, it's so hard to tell what the neighbours are like beforehand moving costs are huge. Save up, wait for some capital gains and go detached next time if you can, that's our plan, if we move again we'll only consider fully detached.
man im at a lose ,5 to 15 times a week can start at 7am anytime up to 3 am screaming ,cursing, doors slamming ,this is three of them in the same house . he even came into my garden and cut my grass without asking and once start washing my windows .i told him off and he start shaking like a mad man ,one day i knocked into them to keep it down at 9 am and was told he can do what he likes and closed the door on me ,i will be calling the police the next time this screaming happens before 8 am or after 12 am ,i really hope getting the walls fixed will help least he stopped coming into my garden some people are messed up .
I had a 7 metre party wall which was not too bad until the old girl next door passed away and a young lass with a child moved in. However I framed my wall with 2x2 and fitted soundproof boards over soundproof filling which worked a treat.
There's no noisy neighbours in my apartment, but I can hear them taking baths, talking, cooking food, and I'm like - WTF bruh. They can hear me too, it's kinda irritating. Thanks for showing how to soundproof walls
“Kid screaming at his Xbox” I have one next door to me. Lockdown means it starts at around 10am and ends after midnight. Was considering a hitman but will look into this soundproofing as it looks a bit cheaper.
I wish , try having loads of adults having parties music blasting all night , shouting and screaming . During all lockdowns , then the police saying it's not our problem ring the council
I live in a 60's semi and the party wall is paper thin. I plan at some point to do this and this video, like all your other videos, provide the inspiration (I built a garden room because of you!). Anyway, one thought, and maybe it is too late for you, but I would lift the floor boards and stick in some Rockwall sound insulation to minimise flanking noise coming from next door and under the floor. And as you suggested, that socket will be letting some noise through. Personally, I would have moved the socket to another wall. My party wall has zero sockets anyway, and I will even move the radiators as well when I do the work and move those to other walls, so there are zero intrusions into the insulation. Anyway good job, love the channel.
Sounds like a plan! I very nearly took up the floor, put in acoustic wool insulation and chip-boarded but I decided against in the end. As someone else has said, even doing the first metre or so away from the party wall is a good idea but the way my joists run, I'd have needed to take up all the floorboards to do it. I intend to put some good acoustic underlay under the carpet though! Fingers crossed that will be sufficient!
I made a utility room using stud walls. I used acoustic plasterboard and acoustic rock-wool batts infills. It drastically reduced washing machine noises.
I need to do this, the entire house hears the washing when it was on. So your layers were 1) Acoustic plasterboard 2) Rock-wool insulation (sorry what does "batts" mean?) 3) Acoustic plasterboard? Did you do anything to the ceiling or the walls were enough?
@@freakstate It was a stud wall to begin with, batts are precut slabs of rockwool. I found mine on eBay. The acoustic type is extra dense. Hope that helps....
Noisy neighbours are a pain in the arse, I used to live next to a woman who shouted at her kids all the time. I moved in the end, but you seem to have done a thorough job and covered all the bases. As always a very interesting video.
Thats the problem I have at the moment, but she is moving out. Next door is rented, and the landlord is finally selling, but I hope it goes to someone who is quiet and not feckless!
Firstly I enjoyed the video so thank you. I must have been cursed as a child, subsequently I have spent the last 30 plus years for my sins assembling every drywall system that's ever been invented ( good and bad ) I tend to treat a sound wall with the same principal as if it were a firewall. The point I'm making is IF that were a firewall the work doesn't stop at floor or ceiling level. The barrier has to continue for best results up and down stopping fire or sound at ever juncture. Clearly above ceiling can be easier said than done depending on many factors. Whereas below the floor, although a chore to lift, but there is nothing to stop sound marching through under the floor and making your efforts less rewarding than you had hoped for. Perhaps left over matting that you used with remaining rockwool. Don't be shy, it'll help reduce airborne noise. Whereas vibration noise along the joists can be unpreventable with major work needing to be undertaken . So . . In a nut shell . . . Floorboards up shove some sound blocking stuff in the void all the length of the wall. And avoid any penetrations in such walls if possible. All the best.
Hi Ali, thanks for uploading this - it's what I needed to see. We've just bought our first house - a 1980s semi. The neighbours are lovely, but they are at best 'slightly' noisy with a dog with abandonment issues and two teenage kids who love their music.
@@AliDymock I appreciate your empathy! Quick question regarding the before and after results - did it reduce much 'banging' sound? Doors/stairs etc? Did you do anything with your floors?
Fantastic video. I spent ages researching this subject and I have learnt more from this video than from a plethora of other sources. Brilliant, as usual :)
This is one of the few videos that show soundproofing in a way that I think is correct. Other than the plug socket, which I would defo seal, I don't think you could have done a better job without lossing a lot more room space. I sound proofed my bedroom in a flat I used to own, full room within a room, floating floor/walls and ceiling, just so I could actually sleep. Lost a huge amount of room space, and a double door to enter the bedroom was plain weird, but it was worth it for the near silence, even when next door were having a party, which was every night. If I ever live in a flat, I'll do the same thing again. The tech is there now so that if you are prepared to give up room space, you can sleep in peace, no matter what your neighbours are doing.
In my book it’s totally worth it. I can sleep with white noise (road, fan, etc) but anything else drives me crazy as I can’t help but focus on it. Yeh I’ll do the plug socket I think!
I also used the soundproofing store - it wasn’t cheap but it wasn’t possible to source all of the materials cheaper. Even the tradesman that installed it for me couldn’t find the materials of the same quality for a lower price. Soundproofing store were really helpful and I would recommend them too. I can no longer hear my neighbours conversations and if they speak really loudly I can barely hear it. This system doesn’t stop sound travelling through the joists though - so if they drop something we can hear it and they have a really creaky floorboard but it isn’t too bad. To try combat this we put a few foot of the rock wool sound insulation under the floor boards.
👍 Hope everyone reads this. Agreed about floor insulation and even soundproofing between floorboards and joists with foam to stop that sound transferring.
I'm doing the same thing right now, have watched the soundproofing store videos so many times! One tip of putting the clips on the wall, I just put the channels on the clips held them to the wall and then drilled the holes. It was all light enough to hold up by myself (except the highest row) but having another person would help. Also I found it hard to squeeze the channels in so just slid the clips on from the end. I ended up sourcing the plasterboard and techsound from different places to save on cost and it made the cost a bit cheaper but I do agree the soundproofing store were really helpful when I talked to them.
Hey man great video and love the channel! My only nitpick would be the use of tecsound. As all the sound proofing pro's say- "Mass is mass". Tecsound is just expensive mass and not really designed for wall applications. Its flexibility means it's great for soundproofing around ducts & pipes ect. Same goes for mass loaded vinyl. I have no idea why UK soundproofing companies still sell Tecsound and MLV in these applications. It would be both cheaper and more effective to add a 3rd layer of plasterboard. Also green glue isn't meant to add mass. It transfers sound to heat via damping and works well at lower frequencies, which are hardest to stop.
Thanks for the feedback Sam. The fact that you mention damping sounds like you know your stuff! So if I do the downstairs in a couple of years you'd do the same but with green glue rather than tec sound? (I cba with 3 layers of plasterboard)
@@AliDymock That's correct. If you google "Mass loaded vinyl vs Green Glue", you'll find test data showing that green glue outperforms mlv (tecsound) at basically every frequency. I had to look into this a ton when I soundproofed my garden shed a few years ago. If you want to find out more, go to the Gearlsutz studio building forum. There are loads of pro studio builders giving advice and they saved me from messing up a few parts of my build. I really can't recommend the site enough.
I really wish I could do this as we've moved into a new home & I can literally hear my neighbours turning over in their sleep & assuming they are suffering the same. This really does sound like a fantastic solution but the loss of space wouldn't be practical in my 'snug' bedroom. Great informative video though.
In addition to my diagonal upstairs neighbour's children playing indoor athletics. My upstairs neighbour has a baby that's now learning to walk, shriek, and develop global motor skills. Happy days.
Oh, I feel you. Used to have the same, plus a dog, all running around bare wooden floors, in a flat in an old Victorian house with no acoustic insulation whatsoever. Drove me bonkers. The other problem is that I met the upstairs neighbours and they were really pleasant and nice, which oddly made the prospect of broaching the subject even more awkward than if I hated them. Either way, we were both renting and the likelihood of anything being done was pretty much zero.
Good job mate ive done this on my walls in mu house and made massive difference. I also put acoustic rockwooln in floor joists the width of room about 1 m from wall this also stops any more vibrations etc
I think that’s smart. If the flooring boards ran parallel to this wall I would have done the same. I bet nearly pulled up the entire lot and put in acoustic wool across the whole floor as it’s above the the living room but how far do you go with these things. Will definitely use acoustic underlay underlay the carpet though!
@@AliDymock video is good mate. When i did mine built wall from timber but had accoustic foam underlay under timber and on side wall so timber didnt touch walls and kept 25mm air gap. I know i was gutted my bedroom was finished but when neighbours moved in realised walls were crap so had ro redo. How heavy are them acoustic boards brought back memories when watched the video
Would be interested to hear more about its effectiveness - what you could hear before v now, flanking, etc. I did my living room with an independent stud wall but can't afford to loose as much floor space in the bedroom so might look at your approach.
Hi Daz, how did the independent stud wall perform? Did you use reductoclips? Would love to hear how much it reduced dbls that you heard before? Thanks in advance!
@@Holzay Hi Hollie, it made a big difference, definitely worthwhile, but will never be totally soundproof. Can no longer hear normal conversation, just some lower frequency TV sounds and occasional dog barking. I did a 10mm gap, 50mm metal studs filled with rockwool RW3 and a layer of 15mm soundshield, acoustic sealant round all edges. Resilient clips or bars and a second layer of soundshield might have made it better, but I only wanted to make it as good as the next weakest link where it would just flank around so tried to balance that with cost and effort.
I done the same work in my room. Tip: better start from bottom with the tecsound material, more easy to install it. I created a kind of cabinet to unroll the entire roll.
Never heard of sound proof wallpaper! In the next bedroom there's this weird polystyrene wood-chip wallpaper I think they used to insulate, it's weird and squishy! I wonder if that's similar.
Ali, there are a lot of questions about whether or not you found this effective, I would love a follow up, as I know many other viewers would 🙏🏻 I'm sure you could discuss the pros, cons and alternatives 😊
5:33 the tecsound sheets should overlap (5 cm by the book, but 1, 2 cm it's enough); you should have made a single cut over the overlapped area, then remove the small pieces on the both sheets and, by doing so, obtain a perfect, almost invisible, seam between sheets.
I hope you scheduled the work during hours where the neighbours would hear you, seems only fair if you're dropping 800 pounds to solve 'their problem'. Great video! 👍
Cheaper way is to just build a false wall in front of the party wall. Did this on all four wall of our old house and work perfect. Lost about 4 inches from each room down one side but was worth it .
@@StochasticGreen I have to say , I tried the other ways, and they either failed to provide any real difference, or where completely useless. As soon as I did the false wall method, the difference was incredible. I turned the hifi right up and went next door to my neighbours, and you could barely make it out. Studding wood, plaster board,and some insulation packed between , was I think in the long run cheaper then the on wall metal system. Oh and some sound deadening silicone around the edges.
This may have been asked already, what was the total finished depth? I need to do my landing/hall wall and have a certain depth to work to the stairs. Thanks.
I'm about to install my reductoclip system on the wall - woop. Quick question - you have listed on your materials 5x60mm screws, however you have listed 6x30mm Rawl plugs - is that right?
Nothing I don't think, I plan to do the same as this on our ground floor. The only thing you might do different is if you have the space, install a stud wall separated from the existing wall first, fill the studs with thicker acoustic wool insulation and then do this system. If you're limited on space like us, then yeh, same as the vid 👍
Given that the original wall is plastered masonry of indeterminate thickness and you haven't skimped on what you have done, the end result is no doubt quite spectacular. This is pretty close to cutting edge for sound reduction.
Now that you've had this installed for a while, how has it fared up? I've been looking to get this for my lounge wall where I can always hear my neighbour's TV. Thanks in advance.
Hey Alan, it's been really fantastic as cutting on TV, dogs, shouting etc. It doesn't do so well, but still helps, with things like chairs being scraped across uncarpeted floors, stamping or doors slamming but that's likely flowing through the structure of the house rather than this specific wall. You can pair it with acoustic insulation in the floor but I just went with a really good acoustic underlay under the carpet. Go for it.
@@AliDymock Did you soundproof between the joists/ floors? I didn't notice you doing that in the video. If not, could that be why the sound carries through when the sound is created at floor level?
Tip. While using laser lever vertical line make sure it faces wall/edge/surface (you trying to fix at/in/on) at 90° angle as accurate as possible. Otherwise laser line will be off. That is not a case on horizontal
A much cheaper alternative - build a stud wall in front of the party wall leaving a small air gap. Fill with 100mm rock wool, plasterboard then plaster. Works a treat.
I wonder how effective this is compared to the high density concrete layered boards you can get..I’ve done acoustic board & isolating bars before & wasn’t impressed esp for low frequency audio, I know this is a lot thicker but a lot to spend if it doesn’t work
Electrical sockets and conduit are huge weekspots when sound insulating. Do everything you can to prevent any leakage. You can spend a fortune insulating a floor only to find that the sound is travelling up an electrical conduit from below.
I occasionally build recording studios and there is an alternative but costly product called DBX made by phonestar. Its basically layers of cardboard filled with sand!! it can be used on all surfaces. I then use techsound followed by 15mm db board.
Hi Ali, I enjoyed your video thanks. May I ask whether you have noticed any difference at all? And whether to think the cost has been worth it? I put 100mm of sound insulation in a stud wall separating two bedrooms and have noticed no difference.
Great video! I'm in a Victorian terrace with quite high ceilings and a cornice at the wall ceiling joint. I was wondering if I would need to remove the cornice and replace it in order to get good sound proofing on the party wall?
Yes, I definitely would. Fortunately you'll be bringing the wall forward so can cut the two adjoining wall cornices and then replace the one you took off the to-be-soundproofed wall
So far it's done really well on blocking noise. Either my neighbours haven't been dropping stuff or marching about or it's blocking the noise really well.
I Installed a shelf and that's about it. The brackets had 2 fixings I used the same long screws to go into the furring bars in one and plasterboard rawlplugs for second fixing. You can see here: th-cam.com/video/24oDh03Yuqg/w-d-xo.html. Tv would be okay but just think about placement of furring bars as you will want to attach the brakcet to one of them. The space behind is actually pretty advantageous for running cables. Where they come through the plasterboard though I'd definitely squeeze in some acoustic sealant. Big holes are a no no though and will really compromise the system.
My livingroom party wall has a chimney breast and the fireplace that was cemented over, would you also take the soundproofing over the chimney breast as well.
What kind of results did you get? I'm in a similar position but worried about spending around £1400 on this system just for it to not work / me not be satisfied with it. Currently, I can hear the neighbours TV / radio pretty clearly. Also I can hear them talk and just about make out what they are saying, which makes me worried they can hear us. Did you do a before / after sound test? Do you think the system would be able to remove their noise? I get if someone shouts / screams you're going to hear that, but just the general chatting and TV noise is enough to make me consider this. Thanks, great video.
Yeh it's worked really well. Ideally you'd do the floor, ceiling as well in some way, even just acoustic wool insulation between the joists would help. If you have the room to lose the a stud wall offset 10mm or so from the wall will do a similar sound reduction but less expense. I'm very glad I did it. I'll try to do an update vid comparing downstairs vs upstairs once the bedroom is finished.
Im guessing the sound proof properties works both ways? sounds from outside blocked for listeners inside... sounds inside blocked for listeners outside? I'm wanting to apply these methods to making a music studio in my loft.
Great video! Very informative. I've been looking into doing something similar, not that my neighbours are excessively noisy, but if I can hear them - they can hear me. I had a question though: I was wondering if your house is (like mine) built with suspended floors downstairs, and how you would approach this issue so that sound would not come up through the floor, thereby negating much (?) of the work that is to be done against the wall itself? I don't particularly want the hassle of lifting the entire ground floor and putting acoustic insulation underneath... That would probably be a deal-breaker for me. Perhaps just lifting the board closest the party wall and fixing some foam insulation to the blockwork with expanding foam?
Yeh, if your floorboards run parallel to the party wall then you can just pull up a few and insulate in-between or run the system shown here below floor level. Or you can go with some really decent acoustic underlay under your finished flooring which will help a little. There are also little clips that you can put on the joists much like the ones here but thinner and that will really help too. But doing what I did alone should do a decent enough job to make it worthwhile.
@@AliDymock cool, thanks for the reply 👍. Great video, again. We appear to have a similar enough house, although I suppose a 3bed semi isn't all that unique😉. Ours is about 50 years old, and we had some work done before moving in, but there's still a list as long as my arm for things to be done, and it can be a bit overwhelming! This video actually gave me the push to get around to a job that I've been putting off (and thereby impacting about 10 other jobs) for the past year and a half! All the best in your future refurbishments 🤘
I do love the detail in your videos. Out of interest what steps do you take to stop sound propagating through the floor into the room and simply bypassing the sound proofing on the wall? And yeah - laser levels are an absolute essential tool for doing diy!
Hi, would that work to remove hight volume of vibration from the tumbler dryer or bathroom fan on the other side of party wall?? the noise comesa from the first floor, and its nightmare thanks in advance
my neighbours is a To Let property. never know who moves in new neighbours now in young lad working odd night he has his freinds round and all seem trying to speak over each other. when the voices are raised you hear them will this make a big difference hopefully be a lot more reduced noise
I’ve my bathroom sandwiched between two bedrooms on either side. Can’t do anything with the bathroom. I really want to sound proof but know that I’ll lose some space form both bedrooms. What’s the total thickness of the finished wall? Many 🙏
Interesting system, first time I’ve seen this.. Would be interesting to know how effective acoustic board stuck with foam would be compared to this. I’ve found this to be an effective solution in the past for thermal insulation.
I’m wondering that too - I’ve considered soundproofing my wall, but only have a small amount of depth to play with, 55mm max, so metal channels are out of the question (probably). What you don’t want is to go to all the bother, then discover it doesn’t actually do much.
@@vooveks acoustic plasterboard and foam I would recommend for your situation, you could even use 25mm pir backed plasterboard and then over board with acoustic plaster board using acoustic sealant/adhesive
@@amateurvegan2636 Thanks. Have you experienced what kind of decibel reduction you get from this system at all? My worry is that I'll do it and then find out it doesn't do a lot for all the work and expense put in.
@@vooveks key things to bare in mind are whether your joists run through a party wall. (Which they won’t in modern buildings) also continuing sound proofing above the ceiling in the void as this can often allow noise through. Removing the ceiling and insulting or over boarding with acoustic board and using acoustic sealant between boards can make a big difference. I can’t give you any figures unfortunately although I will say the acoustic sealant and over boarding alone does make a big difference. As well as boarding using foam as the adhesive. Combined they will defiantly improve noise and heat transfer dramatically as long as you can insulate all areas.
Having noise issues with my neighbours too, all sort of noise coming through, my property is old Victorian and have the original fireplaces present, I like the look of this system, but not sure about navigating the chimney breasts?
Would be interested to know how you overcome fixing to this system, kitchen units for example. I have looked at the manufacturers website this shows adding extra channels for a TV or Radiator, but not sure how this would work in a kitchen practically with lots of wall and base units with all the associated wiring?
Hmm I’d say any wiring can just go in the void between the wall and plasterboard but don’t suffocate it with insulation and then run a line of furring bar where you’ll attach your base and wall cabinets which should hold firm. The cabinets themselves should offer a bit of soundproofing too I reckon
So does this system eliminate all sound? My neighbours are very sociable so lots of loud talking under the influence of intoxicants and they play music, sometimes at 3am!!
Great video, thank you for taking the time to share your experience. Aside from the sound proofing, did you notice a change in the acoustics within the room itself, as I assume it serves as a form of acoustic treatment to reduce booming and reflected mid/treble from that wall?
Hi Ali, just got mine and the wall plugs seems a little too short. They are brown I noticed yours are blue if this means anything sizewise? When inserted screw into clip hole and compared, the tip of the screw is about 5mm past wall plug end. Is this OK?
Great video, highly informative and delivered at a good pace. That Tecsound product looks excellent incidentally. One minor suggestion: I'd have done the party wall sound treatment lining first so it extended all the way out to the external wall, *then* done the dot'n'dab lining round the window wall. (Although I suppose it depends on if the thermal or acoustic considerations were the more important.) Everyone's a critic, right?! ;)
Yeh I agree. I only realised how much I could hear the kid shouting whilst I was working on the sound insulation though, otherwise I'd have done them in reverse order 👍
@@anthonyb924 If you do the dot'n'dab on the external wall first, it means you have a narrow strip of party wall that won't receive the acoustic insulating treatment, as the external wall treatment covers it. So in order to maximise the extent of the party wall being acoustically treated, you do that work first, *then* you insulate the external wall, abutting the party wall lining you've already done. Hopefully that makes sense! Basically you sacrifice some of the extent of thermal insulation on the external wall, by maximising the extent of acoustic wall treatment on the party wall.
Hi, Ali. May I ask why you didn't use the wooden frame against the wall or just off it? All the videos I have viewed have used this method. Has the clips and bars straight to the wall worked as well as you'd hope it would?
By the time you have soundproofed walls how much space is taken thickness from existing to added soundproofing. Also how much depth of ceiling is required thanks. I have viewed loads of TH-camrs videos and no one tells you this information
What if i dont want to hear the neighbours talking or vibrations that they make ? they use their washing machine from morning to night. Will this kind of wall help me stop hearing anything please?
Great video. I'm glad it did the trick. Did you consider hacking the plaster off to offset the cost of room space and lofting floorboards to insulate the floor void?
Yeh a lot of older houses have brick internal partition walls. Newer houses often have stud even if the outer walls are brick/block. We don’t have duplexes here really. We have terraced and semi detached houses but different people own each house. The only way to house hack here is to rent out bedrooms in your house or have an annex. Sometimes in HCOL areas we have houses split into flats (apartments) but usually the title (deed) to the flats is split and owned by different people rather than one person owning the whole building. I can’t speak for the rest of Europe though!
@@AliDymock Interesting. Here, unless you look at well built or older homes, its all studs, studs, and more studs, even if it's a multi-family building.
In case you missed it, here's the first project on insulated plasterboard: th-cam.com/video/nSnbMsSzdXU/w-d-xo.html
0:00 Intro
0:16 Reducto Clips
1:35 Furring Bars
2:50 Acoustic Wool
3:34 Acoustic Plasterboard
4:37 Tecsound & Alternatives
5:58 Acoustic Plasterboard x2
7:06 Materials Supplier
7:30 Genie Clips & Resilient Bars
8:30 Outro
A aa
A aa
Where can it be bought in Europe?
Could you give us your opinion on how it faired after the installation?
We are in a terrace and had new neighbours who were making noise 3 - 4 times a week sometimes all the way through the night to 7-8am. Started off politely asking to calling the cops to having a meltdown and nearly having an all in brawl in the middle of the street at 4am. Thanks god they just moved out but I am still going to do this to the party wall. I think I was not far off a full mental episode.
Very well explained. I bought a maisonette recently with my wife. The banging from upstairs is relentless and made us mentally and physically ill (not stomping) I spent months researching sound waves and soundproofing and found just how difficult it is to stop physical impact noise directly onto a surface. I soundproofed a small room and replaced an entire wall that would vibrate and rattle the radiator underneath them. It helped but ultimately in extreme situations like ours the only shelter was to find a room they are least active, purchase a sound bar with a subwoofer and play Deep brown noise (sounds like being on an aeroplane). Its important to try to match the frequency of the noise you are experiencing and this will mask the nuisance. We've lived in our bedroom for about 18months now.
We ended up finding out that the previous owners lied on their information form about complaining about neighbours so we took legal action. We reached a settlement that is enough to help us move on soon.
I'm happy to talk about it if anyone needs help. Living uncomfortably and depressed is nothing anyone should go through, no matter what is causing it
I am now living the nightmare of a little boy back to back in my bedroom, kill me now.
I have half bricks cemented to my wal, the LL had done 2 lawyers of sheetrock on thier side while that apt was vacant, sadly, I still hear the impact noises.
Some times it doesnt bother me, other times it makes me insane. I am almost at the point where I want to reverse my bedroom and living room as im in my bedroom more....and then close the door.
just had to vent, last night I wanted to scream.
I sympathise. It can be debillitating, to have one's home invaded by noise. You are not alone. It's almost as if all attached houses were built to create these problems on purpose.
Fun fact - from my experiance with lousy/noisy neighbours - sound can travel around that barrier if ceiling, floor or adjacent walls aren't insulated to the same extent. All in all i got two lessons out of my case 1) it's more effective to insulate at the source, 2) it's more (cost, time, health) effective to move out.
This kills me. I just moved into my dream house and my neighbors aren't necessarily loud, but I can still hear them. Not sure what to do.
Absolutely this is called flanking sound.
It is an issue when you buy a house, it's so hard to tell what the neighbours are like beforehand moving costs are huge. Save up, wait for some capital gains and go detached next time if you can, that's our plan, if we move again we'll only consider fully detached.
@@AliDymock So the soundproofing didn't work?
man im at a lose ,5 to 15 times a week can start at 7am anytime up to 3 am screaming ,cursing, doors slamming ,this is three of them in the same house . he even came into my garden and cut my grass without asking and once start washing my windows .i told him off and he start shaking like a mad man ,one day i knocked into them to keep it down at 9 am and was told he can do what he likes and closed the door on me ,i will be calling the police the next time this screaming happens before 8 am or after 12 am ,i really hope getting the walls fixed will help least he stopped coming into my garden some people are messed up .
It's incredible how detailed your videos are - both videos that came out this evening are brilliant and very useful. Thanks!
Thanks Oli!
I had a 7 metre party wall which was not too bad until the old girl next door passed away and a young lass with a child moved in.
However I framed my wall with 2x2 and fitted soundproof boards over soundproof filling which worked a treat.
There's no noisy neighbours in my apartment, but I can hear them taking baths, talking, cooking food, and I'm like - WTF bruh. They can hear me too, it's kinda irritating. Thanks for showing how to soundproof walls
“Kid screaming at his Xbox” I have one next door to me. Lockdown means it starts at around 10am and ends after midnight. Was considering a hitman but will look into this soundproofing as it looks a bit cheaper.
😂 both are fine options
I wish , try having loads of adults having parties music blasting all night , shouting and screaming . During all lockdowns , then the police saying it's not our problem ring the council
@@CM-1723 Then the councils saying call the police... same here pal :-(
@@joe_3y3s theres only one thing to do really and that's move . But now all the house prices have shot up couldn't make it up lol
@@CM-1723 we're renting our place out and moving into a rented place. We just need out. Starting to actually affect my mental health!
Jesus, where was this video 3 years ago when I needed it most 😂
I live in a 60's semi and the party wall is paper thin. I plan at some point to do this and this video, like all your other videos, provide the inspiration (I built a garden room because of you!). Anyway, one thought, and maybe it is too late for you, but I would lift the floor boards and stick in some Rockwall sound insulation to minimise flanking noise coming from next door and under the floor. And as you suggested, that socket will be letting some noise through. Personally, I would have moved the socket to another wall. My party wall has zero sockets anyway, and I will even move the radiators as well when I do the work and move those to other walls, so there are zero intrusions into the insulation. Anyway good job, love the channel.
Sounds like a plan! I very nearly took up the floor, put in acoustic wool insulation and chip-boarded but I decided against in the end. As someone else has said, even doing the first metre or so away from the party wall is a good idea but the way my joists run, I'd have needed to take up all the floorboards to do it. I intend to put some good acoustic underlay under the carpet though! Fingers crossed that will be sufficient!
I made a utility room using stud walls. I used acoustic plasterboard and acoustic rock-wool batts infills. It drastically reduced washing machine noises.
I need to do this, the entire house hears the washing when it was on. So your layers were 1) Acoustic plasterboard 2) Rock-wool insulation (sorry what does "batts" mean?) 3) Acoustic plasterboard? Did you do anything to the ceiling or the walls were enough?
@@freakstate It was a stud wall to begin with, batts are precut slabs of rockwool. I found mine on eBay. The acoustic type is extra dense. Hope that helps....
@@JohnnyMotel99 Thank you, much appreciated
@@freakstate you might want to look into vibration dampers for the feet as well. Good luck 😉
Noisy neighbours are a pain in the arse, I used to live next to a woman who shouted at her kids all the time. I moved in the end, but you seem to have done a thorough job and covered all the bases. As always a very interesting video.
It really can affect your enjoyment of 'home' so yeh I feel for you. If we ever move again, it's gotta be detached!
Thats the problem I have at the moment, but she is moving out. Next door is rented, and the landlord is finally selling, but I hope it goes to someone who is quiet and not feckless!
Firstly I enjoyed the video so thank you. I must have been cursed as a child, subsequently I have spent the last 30 plus years for my sins assembling every drywall system that's ever been invented ( good and bad ) I tend to treat a sound wall with the same principal as if it were a firewall. The point I'm making is IF that were a firewall the work doesn't stop at floor or ceiling level. The barrier has to continue for best results up and down stopping fire or sound at ever juncture. Clearly above ceiling can be easier said than done depending on many factors. Whereas below the floor, although a chore to lift, but there is nothing to stop sound marching through under the floor and making your efforts less rewarding than you had hoped for. Perhaps left over matting that you used with remaining rockwool. Don't be shy, it'll help reduce airborne noise. Whereas vibration noise along the joists can be unpreventable with major work needing to be undertaken .
So . . In a nut shell . . . Floorboards up shove some sound blocking stuff in the void all the length of the wall. And avoid any penetrations in such walls if possible.
All the best.
'Sound' advice 😬👍
Hi Ali, thanks for uploading this - it's what I needed to see. We've just bought our first house - a 1980s semi. The neighbours are lovely, but they are at best 'slightly' noisy with a dog with abandonment issues and two teenage kids who love their music.
I know your pain.
@@AliDymock I appreciate your empathy! Quick question regarding the before and after results - did it reduce much 'banging' sound? Doors/stairs etc? Did you do anything with your floors?
Fantastic video. I spent ages researching this subject and I have learnt more from this video than from a plethora of other sources. Brilliant, as usual :)
Thanks Mike, glad it was helpful!
This is one of the few videos that show soundproofing in a way that I think is correct. Other than the plug socket, which I would defo seal, I don't think you could have done a better job without lossing a lot more room space. I sound proofed my bedroom in a flat I used to own, full room within a room, floating floor/walls and ceiling, just so I could actually sleep. Lost a huge amount of room space, and a double door to enter the bedroom was plain weird, but it was worth it for the near silence, even when next door were having a party, which was every night. If I ever live in a flat, I'll do the same thing again. The tech is there now so that if you are prepared to give up room space, you can sleep in peace, no matter what your neighbours are doing.
In my book it’s totally worth it. I can sleep with white noise (road, fan, etc) but anything else drives me crazy as I can’t help but focus on it. Yeh I’ll do the plug socket I think!
*losing
I also used the soundproofing store - it wasn’t cheap but it wasn’t possible to source all of the materials cheaper. Even the tradesman that installed it for me couldn’t find the materials of the same quality for a lower price. Soundproofing store were really helpful and I would recommend them too. I can no longer hear my neighbours conversations and if they speak really loudly I can barely hear it. This system doesn’t stop sound travelling through the joists though - so if they drop something we can hear it and they have a really creaky floorboard but it isn’t too bad. To try combat this we put a few foot of the rock wool sound insulation under the floor boards.
👍 Hope everyone reads this. Agreed about floor insulation and even soundproofing between floorboards and joists with foam to stop that sound transferring.
I'm doing the same thing right now, have watched the soundproofing store videos so many times! One tip of putting the clips on the wall, I just put the channels on the clips held them to the wall and then drilled the holes. It was all light enough to hold up by myself (except the highest row) but having another person would help. Also I found it hard to squeeze the channels in so just slid the clips on from the end.
I ended up sourcing the plasterboard and techsound from different places to save on cost and it made the cost a bit cheaper but I do agree the soundproofing store were really helpful when I talked to them.
Great tip to slot them clips on first, I'd not thought of that. 👍
Hey man great video and love the channel! My only nitpick would be the use of tecsound. As all the sound proofing pro's say- "Mass is mass". Tecsound is just expensive mass and not really designed for wall applications. Its flexibility means it's great for soundproofing around ducts & pipes ect. Same goes for mass loaded vinyl. I have no idea why UK soundproofing companies still sell Tecsound and MLV in these applications. It would be both cheaper and more effective to add a 3rd layer of plasterboard. Also green glue isn't meant to add mass. It transfers sound to heat via damping and works well at lower frequencies, which are hardest to stop.
Thanks for the feedback Sam. The fact that you mention damping sounds like you know your stuff! So if I do the downstairs in a couple of years you'd do the same but with green glue rather than tec sound? (I cba with 3 layers of plasterboard)
@@AliDymock That's correct. If you google "Mass loaded vinyl vs Green Glue", you'll find test data showing that green glue outperforms mlv (tecsound) at basically every frequency. I had to look into this a ton when I soundproofed my garden shed a few years ago. If you want to find out more, go to the Gearlsutz studio building forum. There are loads of pro studio builders giving advice and they saved me from messing up a few parts of my build. I really can't recommend the site enough.
I really wish I could do this as we've moved into a new home & I can literally hear my neighbours turning over in their sleep & assuming they are suffering the same.
This really does sound like a fantastic solution but the loss of space wouldn't be practical in my 'snug' bedroom.
Great informative video though.
Watching this as I lie in bed at night listening to the guy in the flat next to mine snore like a dying cow, same as every night
In addition to my diagonal upstairs neighbour's children playing indoor athletics. My upstairs neighbour has a baby that's now learning to walk, shriek, and develop global motor skills. Happy days.
Oh, I feel you. Used to have the same, plus a dog, all running around bare wooden floors, in a flat in an old Victorian house with no acoustic insulation whatsoever. Drove me bonkers. The other problem is that I met the upstairs neighbours and they were really pleasant and nice, which oddly made the prospect of broaching the subject even more awkward than if I hated them. Either way, we were both renting and the likelihood of anything being done was pretty much zero.
Good job mate ive done this on my walls in mu house and made massive difference. I also put acoustic rockwooln in floor joists the width of room about 1 m from wall this also stops any more vibrations etc
I think that’s smart. If the flooring boards ran parallel to this wall I would have done the same. I bet nearly pulled up the entire lot and put in acoustic wool across the whole floor as it’s above the the living room but how far do you go with these things. Will definitely use acoustic underlay underlay the carpet though!
@@AliDymock video is good mate. When i did mine built wall from timber but had accoustic foam underlay under timber and on side wall so timber didnt touch walls and kept 25mm air gap. I know i was gutted my bedroom was finished but when neighbours moved in realised walls were crap so had ro redo. How heavy are them acoustic boards brought back memories when watched the video
Great video, very clear and thanks for including the costs.
Would be interested to hear more about its effectiveness - what you could hear before v now, flanking, etc. I did my living room with an independent stud wall but can't afford to loose as much floor space in the bedroom so might look at your approach.
*lose
Hi Daz, how did the independent stud wall perform? Did you use reductoclips? Would love to hear how much it reduced dbls that you heard before? Thanks in advance!
@@Holzay Hi Hollie, it made a big difference, definitely worthwhile, but will never be totally soundproof. Can no longer hear normal conversation, just some lower frequency TV sounds and occasional dog barking. I did a 10mm gap, 50mm metal studs filled with rockwool RW3 and a layer of 15mm soundshield, acoustic sealant round all edges. Resilient clips or bars and a second layer of soundshield might have made it better, but I only wanted to make it as good as the next weakest link where it would just flank around so tried to balance that with cost and effort.
Thanks Ali, I'm looking to do this to our lounge soon and this is exactly what I was after!
Have fun!
How is the result..I am planning to do for my lounge as well..
did you end up doing the soundproofing and did it work out well?
I done the same work in my room. Tip: better start from bottom with the tecsound material, more easy to install it. I created a kind of cabinet to unroll the entire roll.
We're a louder family. I'm tempted to do this on all exterior walls of the house.
Good to be self aware about these things 👍 😆
It would be cheaper for you to just learn how to quiet down and have a little respect for your neighbors
Very nice of you to recognize that, bro
Great video. I used the sound proof wallpaper. Think they saw me coming. Doesn't work in my experience. Makes the room warmer though. 🙂
Never heard of sound proof wallpaper! In the next bedroom there's this weird polystyrene wood-chip wallpaper I think they used to insulate, it's weird and squishy! I wonder if that's similar.
Ali, there are a lot of questions about whether or not you found this effective, I would love a follow up, as I know many other viewers would 🙏🏻 I'm sure you could discuss the pros, cons and alternatives 😊
these are the type of channels that act as father figures for those that dont have them to teach them these things
5:33 the tecsound sheets should overlap (5 cm by the book, but 1, 2 cm it's enough); you should have made a single cut over the overlapped area, then remove the small pieces on the both sheets and, by doing so, obtain a perfect, almost invisible, seam between sheets.
How much does this one little room cost to do? And how much space you sacrificed?
Great informative video,I used the Green Glue method,this looks far better,the Green Glue did work,but not as much as i hoped.
I hope you scheduled the work during hours where the neighbours would hear you, seems only fair if you're dropping 800 pounds to solve 'their problem'.
Great video! 👍
Heheh, well everyone's at home anyway in lockdown so it was unavoidable 😝
Will this block bass ?
Great video. Have also used Soundproofing Store and found them very helpful.
Cheaper way is to just build a false wall in front of the party wall. Did this on all four wall of our old house and work perfect. Lost about 4 inches from each room down one side but was worth it .
Ya this way is appealing as only 60mm is lost. It all depends on how much ££ and space you're willing to give up! 🤣
@@StochasticGreen I have to say , I tried the other ways, and they either failed to provide any real difference, or where completely useless. As soon as I did the false wall method, the difference was incredible. I turned the hifi right up and went next door to my neighbours, and you could barely make it out. Studding wood, plaster board,and some insulation packed between , was I think in the long run cheaper then the on wall metal system. Oh and some sound deadening silicone around the edges.
Great video, I'm curious how much it improved things?
This may have been asked already, what was the total finished depth? I need to do my landing/hall wall and have a certain depth to work to the stairs. Thanks.
about 60mm, I think I mention it towards then end of the vid. It's about as thin as you can get while still doing a proper soundproofing job I think.
Can't believe how many layers you put there.
I'm about to install my reductoclip system on the wall - woop. Quick question - you have listed on your materials 5x60mm screws, however you have listed 6x30mm Rawl plugs - is that right?
good detailed video
any more refurb videos ?
What would you do differently if installing on ground floor. *concrete*.
Nothing I don't think, I plan to do the same as this on our ground floor. The only thing you might do different is if you have the space, install a stud wall separated from the existing wall first, fill the studs with thicker acoustic wool insulation and then do this system. If you're limited on space like us, then yeh, same as the vid 👍
@@AliDymock ive just done downstairs and very please with results got a reduction of approx 80 db, so peace of mind at last, keep up the good work
Great vid as always 👍🏼
Thanks for the great video, it helped me a lot putting up my soundproof wall
Great stuff. Mine’s been great I don’t hear anything come through the wall. Will do a follow up video soon on it 👍
Given that the original wall is plastered masonry of indeterminate thickness and you haven't skimped on what you have done, the end result is no doubt quite spectacular. This is pretty close to cutting edge for sound reduction.
Now that you've had this installed for a while, how has it fared up? I've been looking to get this for my lounge wall where I can always hear my neighbour's TV. Thanks in advance.
Hey Alan, it's been really fantastic as cutting on TV, dogs, shouting etc. It doesn't do so well, but still helps, with things like chairs being scraped across uncarpeted floors, stamping or doors slamming but that's likely flowing through the structure of the house rather than this specific wall. You can pair it with acoustic insulation in the floor but I just went with a really good acoustic underlay under the carpet. Go for it.
@@AliDymock Did you soundproof between the joists/ floors? I didn't notice you doing that in the video. If not, could that be why the sound carries through when the sound is created at floor level?
Fantastic job
How much did that cost all in ?
It's in the vid in the screenshot of materials - £800 ish. Quite a lot but totally worth it for peace and quiet
Did you add flanking strips but I missed it?
Tip. While using laser lever vertical line make sure it faces wall/edge/surface (you trying to fix at/in/on) at 90° angle as accurate as possible. Otherwise laser line will be off. That is not a case on horizontal
A much cheaper alternative - build a stud wall in front of the party wall leaving a small air gap. Fill with 100mm rock wool, plasterboard then plaster. Works a treat.
Would you recommend this system? Did you notice a decent reduction in noise? Thanks
I wonder how effective this is compared to the high density concrete layered boards you can get..I’ve done acoustic board & isolating bars before & wasn’t impressed esp for low frequency audio, I know this is a lot thicker but a lot to spend if it doesn’t work
how does it work with humidity? I'm concert on mold trapped behind those materials
Did you find that even with the walls proofed, that the sound carried through the floors too?
Electrical sockets and conduit are huge weekspots when sound insulating. Do everything you can to prevent any leakage. You can spend a fortune insulating a floor only to find that the sound is travelling up an electrical conduit from below.
Thanks for the advice, I'll get a putty pad for sure
@@AliDymock i little squirt of expanding foam where the cables enter the back box and around it works well as well
Not sure if you mentioned, but what was the overall depth of this system?
I occasionally build recording studios and there is an alternative but costly product called DBX made by phonestar. Its basically layers of cardboard filled with sand!! it can be used on all surfaces. I then use techsound followed by 15mm db board.
Very interesting! I imagine the different shapes of the sand help disrupt sound and being so heavy really helps absorb it too 👍
Hi Ali, I enjoyed your video thanks. May I ask whether you have noticed any difference at all? And whether to think the cost has been worth it? I put 100mm of sound insulation in a stud wall separating two bedrooms and have noticed no difference.
How would you insulate the floor?
Excellent video and hope that you get more subscribers as you most definitely deserve it. Look forward to any future videos
Thank you for the video mate 👍🏼
Great video! I'm in a Victorian terrace with quite high ceilings and a cornice at the wall ceiling joint. I was wondering if I would need to remove the cornice and replace it in order to get good sound proofing on the party wall?
Yes, I definitely would. Fortunately you'll be bringing the wall forward so can cut the two adjoining wall cornices and then replace the one you took off the to-be-soundproofed wall
very nice details and work. how about low frequeny sounds like banging doors, dropping things to floor etc ? did it work for it as well ?
So far it's done really well on blocking noise. Either my neighbours haven't been dropping stuff or marching about or it's blocking the noise really well.
@@AliDymock i am glad for that, here in Turkey we have a terrible level of it :)
Any advice for using the wall after? For example installing shelfs or hanging a TV. I would want to puncture the sound proof course.
I Installed a shelf and that's about it. The brackets had 2 fixings I used the same long screws to go into the furring bars in one and plasterboard rawlplugs for second fixing. You can see here: th-cam.com/video/24oDh03Yuqg/w-d-xo.html. Tv would be okay but just think about placement of furring bars as you will want to attach the brakcet to one of them. The space behind is actually pretty advantageous for running cables. Where they come through the plasterboard though I'd definitely squeeze in some acoustic sealant. Big holes are a no no though and will really compromise the system.
How is it going with the soundproofing? Did it work?
Nice.. what was the STC achieved?
My livingroom party wall has a chimney breast and the fireplace that was cemented over, would you also take the soundproofing over the chimney breast as well.
seems quite intense, don't you have a cheaper version of sound proofing?
Plz send me link from where to buy all materials in uk.Thanks for a good informative video.
What kind of results did you get? I'm in a similar position but worried about spending around £1400 on this system just for it to not work / me not be satisfied with it. Currently, I can hear the neighbours TV / radio pretty clearly. Also I can hear them talk and just about make out what they are saying, which makes me worried they can hear us.
Did you do a before / after sound test?
Do you think the system would be able to remove their noise? I get if someone shouts / screams you're going to hear that, but just the general chatting and TV noise is enough to make me consider this. Thanks, great video.
Yeh it's worked really well. Ideally you'd do the floor, ceiling as well in some way, even just acoustic wool insulation between the joists would help. If you have the room to lose the a stud wall offset 10mm or so from the wall will do a similar sound reduction but less expense. I'm very glad I did it. I'll try to do an update vid comparing downstairs vs upstairs once the bedroom is finished.
Nice video and thank you. What has the performance been like then since you've installed it? Has it made a big different?
Did it work? I mean, did you have to do the ceilings and all?
Im guessing the sound proof properties works both ways? sounds from outside blocked for listeners inside... sounds inside blocked for listeners outside? I'm wanting to apply these methods to making a music studio in my loft.
You lifted a floorboard to see which direction the cables were run?
Do you hear neighbours loud music, would it block out drum and bass ?
What is the reduction in db's please?
Can you put this kind of wall over a drywall?
Great video! Very informative. I've been looking into doing something similar, not that my neighbours are excessively noisy, but if I can hear them - they can hear me.
I had a question though: I was wondering if your house is (like mine) built with suspended floors downstairs, and how you would approach this issue so that sound would not come up through the floor, thereby negating much (?) of the work that is to be done against the wall itself? I don't particularly want the hassle of lifting the entire ground floor and putting acoustic insulation underneath... That would probably be a deal-breaker for me. Perhaps just lifting the board closest the party wall and fixing some foam insulation to the blockwork with expanding foam?
Yeh, if your floorboards run parallel to the party wall then you can just pull up a few and insulate in-between or run the system shown here below floor level. Or you can go with some really decent acoustic underlay under your finished flooring which will help a little. There are also little clips that you can put on the joists much like the ones here but thinner and that will really help too. But doing what I did alone should do a decent enough job to make it worthwhile.
@@AliDymock cool, thanks for the reply 👍. Great video, again. We appear to have a similar enough house, although I suppose a 3bed semi isn't all that unique😉. Ours is about 50 years old, and we had some work done before moving in, but there's still a list as long as my arm for things to be done, and it can be a bit overwhelming! This video actually gave me the push to get around to a job that I've been putting off (and thereby impacting about 10 other jobs) for the past year and a half! All the best in your future refurbishments 🤘
I do love the detail in your videos.
Out of interest what steps do you take to stop sound propagating through the floor into the room and simply bypassing the sound proofing on the wall?
And yeah - laser levels are an absolute essential tool for doing diy!
You can get an acoustic mat liner to put under your floor covering
Hi, would that work to remove hight volume of vibration from the tumbler dryer or bathroom fan on the other side of party wall?? the noise comesa from the first floor, and its nightmare thanks in advance
my neighbours is a To Let property. never know who moves in
new neighbours now in young lad working odd night he has his freinds round and all seem trying to speak over each other. when the voices are raised you hear them
will this make a big difference hopefully be a lot more reduced noise
What is the optimum gap between the two partitions.............. 1ft?
I’ve my bathroom sandwiched between two bedrooms on either side. Can’t do anything with the bathroom. I really want to sound proof but know that I’ll lose some space form both bedrooms. What’s the total thickness of the finished wall? Many 🙏
Interesting system, first time I’ve seen this..
Would be interesting to know how effective acoustic board stuck with foam would be compared to this. I’ve found this to be an effective solution in the past for thermal insulation.
I’m wondering that too - I’ve considered soundproofing my wall, but only have a small amount of depth to play with, 55mm max, so metal channels are out of the question (probably). What you don’t want is to go to all the bother, then discover it doesn’t actually do much.
@@vooveks acoustic plasterboard and foam I would recommend for your situation, you could even use 25mm pir backed plasterboard and then over board with acoustic plaster board using acoustic sealant/adhesive
@@amateurvegan2636 Thanks. Have you experienced what kind of decibel reduction you get from this system at all? My worry is that I'll do it and then find out it doesn't do a lot for all the work and expense put in.
@@vooveks key things to bare in mind are whether your joists run through a party wall. (Which they won’t in modern buildings) also continuing sound proofing above the ceiling in the void as this can often allow noise through. Removing the ceiling and insulting or over boarding with acoustic board and using acoustic sealant between boards can make a big difference.
I can’t give you any figures unfortunately although I will say the acoustic sealant and over boarding alone does make a big difference.
As well as boarding using foam as the adhesive. Combined they will defiantly improve noise and heat transfer dramatically as long as you can insulate all areas.
Wow, excellent well present video - thank you
Having noise issues with my neighbours too, all sort of noise coming through, my property is old Victorian and have the original fireplaces present, I like the look of this system, but not sure about navigating the chimney breasts?
Just take the system up to either side of the breast
Agreed.
Would be interested to know how you overcome fixing to this system, kitchen units for example. I have looked at the manufacturers website this shows adding extra channels for a TV or Radiator, but not sure how this would work in a kitchen practically with lots of wall and base units with all the associated wiring?
Hmm I’d say any wiring can just go in the void between the wall and plasterboard but don’t suffocate it with insulation and then run a line of furring bar where you’ll attach your base and wall cabinets which should hold firm. The cabinets themselves should offer a bit of soundproofing too I reckon
So does this system eliminate all sound? My neighbours are very sociable so lots of loud talking under the influence of intoxicants and they play music, sometimes at 3am!!
Great video, thank you for taking the time to share your experience.
Aside from the sound proofing, did you notice a change in the acoustics within the room itself, as I assume it serves as a form of acoustic treatment to reduce booming and reflected mid/treble from that wall?
Hi Ali, just got mine and the wall plugs seems a little too short. They are brown I noticed yours are blue if this means anything sizewise? When inserted screw into clip hole and compared, the tip of the screw is about 5mm past wall plug end. Is this OK?
what a cracking video. thank you
Does it help to soundproof only the bedroom wall where I am sleeping? A company gave me £2000 quotation for 7.5cm sound proof wall.
With this system in place, could i crank my surround sound upto -10db complete with subwoofer and my neighbours wouldn't hear anything?
Great video, highly informative and delivered at a good pace. That Tecsound product looks excellent incidentally. One minor suggestion: I'd have done the party wall sound treatment lining first so it extended all the way out to the external wall, *then* done the dot'n'dab lining round the window wall. (Although I suppose it depends on if the thermal or acoustic considerations were the more important.) Everyone's a critic, right?! ;)
Yeh I agree. I only realised how much I could hear the kid shouting whilst I was working on the sound insulation though, otherwise I'd have done them in reverse order 👍
Can you elaborate what you mean by the party wall lining first etc please?
I’m gonna do this at my place
@@anthonyb924 If you do the dot'n'dab on the external wall first, it means you have a narrow strip of party wall that won't receive the acoustic insulating treatment, as the external wall treatment covers it. So in order to maximise the extent of the party wall being acoustically treated, you do that work first, *then* you insulate the external wall, abutting the party wall lining you've already done. Hopefully that makes sense! Basically you sacrifice some of the extent of thermal insulation on the external wall, by maximising the extent of acoustic wall treatment on the party wall.
@@giotto4321 ah yep gotcha, didn’t realise any other walls were being worked on at all. Cheers
Hi, Ali. May I ask why you didn't use the wooden frame against the wall or just off it? All the videos I have viewed have used this method. Has the clips and bars straight to the wall worked as well as you'd hope it would?
By the time you have soundproofed walls how much space is taken thickness from existing to added soundproofing.
Also how much depth of ceiling is required thanks.
I have viewed loads of TH-camrs videos and no one tells you this information
What if i dont want to hear the neighbours talking or vibrations that they make ? they use their washing machine from morning to night. Will this kind of wall help me stop hearing anything please?
Great video. I'm glad it did the trick.
Did you consider hacking the plaster off to offset the cost of room space and lofting floorboards to insulate the floor void?
Does Europe have interior brick walls or is that a duplex thing? Kinda weird to see animations with them for me in the US
Its a duplex kind of thing. Google semi-detached or terraced house for ideas of UK attached house styles
Yeh a lot of older houses have brick internal partition walls. Newer houses often have stud even if the outer walls are brick/block.
We don’t have duplexes here really. We have terraced and semi detached houses but different people own each house. The only way to house hack here is to rent out bedrooms in your house or have an annex.
Sometimes in HCOL areas we have houses split into flats (apartments) but usually the title (deed) to the flats is split and owned by different people rather than one person owning the whole building.
I can’t speak for the rest of Europe though!
@@AliDymock Interesting. Here, unless you look at well built or older homes, its all studs, studs, and more studs, even if it's a multi-family building.