Are you able to report how successful the soundproofing is now it has been fitted for a while...thank you for the great and inspirational videos and DIY tips 👍
Really nice and considerate of you to implement this feature. Noise from inconsiderate neighbours can be so debilitating. And that even goes for people living in detached houses too.
@@GosforthHandyman I'm a musician of many years standing but, I've always recognised that one man's (musical) pleasure is another man's (musical) pain!
Enjoying your renovation videos! Just a tip. I find using an old bread knife works really well for cutting any type of fibre insulation. The slightly serrated blade cuts through it easily!
@pat Barter with hardly any dust or flakes in the process, it's what I used when insulating the TV/Theater room with rock wool, from the mechanical room with the 30 year old forced air furnace, can't hear it anymore.
I've just used the same system to do my living room and bedrooms on my semi detached. Has worked great made a massive difference. Cost me a fortune tho but well worth it.
@@Mr_Ashley cost me just over £5k for the lot but my living room Is really long and I also did one room which I use to play guitar in. It's made a massive difference we get on great with our neighbors but I've got a young family that are loud and hated thinking we were annoying the neighbors with kids shouting and me playing guitar.
@@dwangs465 thank you so much for your reply! Funnily enough same boat for me, I enjoy cranking the amps to 11, and my daughter is the loudest creature on earth 😂
Very informative video. No longer live north of Newcastle but always loved the estate your house is in. Your so lucky your on the edge looking over the stream and golf course
I thought I was odd because I put in second stud walls between us and our neighbours just in case they were noisy - my wife certainly thought it was weird - glad there are at least two of us. This looks really comprehensive system. Also did the floor insulation but only I. The last 5 years but luckily we have a crawl space under our floor so glued the Kingspan to the underneath. Wish I had thought about doing it like you as soooo much easier. Love the videos.
Cheers! Got a vid coming up on the under floor insulation, only trouble is none of the joist spacings are even so cutting the insulation exactly is a challenge! 😁
Yes, our floor joists were all different spacing. Cutting Kingspan with about two feet headroom then trying to stick to the floor joists is challenging in the extreme. 🤪🤣
I had a professional sound insulation firm do my party wall. With the mass loaded vinyl they glued it to the acoustic plaster board before putting the board on the wall. Seemed like an easier way to do it. They put up the acoustic plaster board with mass loaded vinyl first, then finished with the second layer of acoustic plaster board. Protects the neighbours from the piano!
@@GosforthHandyman There were indeed two of them! They built a complete metal frame, attached by rubber couplings to the ceiling and floor, no connection to the party wall at all. It works very well 👍
@@ourclarioncall No problem - in mid-2016 it cost €4000 plus vat for a wall with a surface area of 13.75m2. That was for a layer of bubble wrap/silver foil stuff for thermal isolation, steel frame on two layers of rubber mounts, thick wool, compressed wool, loaded rubber, two layers of acoustic plaster board, finishing and painting, three sockets/switches with acoustic back boxes.
I'm doing something similar to a slightly lesser extent. I have a particularly annoyingly loud next door neighbor who seems to live in their bedroom and gabs in a very loud voice overnight. I'm skipping the mass loaded vinyl and just having a pair of plasterboards, I'm also planning on using acoustic tape across the studwork. I think it should be quite sufficient.
Wish I'd seen this 8 years ago when started on house we now live in. One thing I really did get right though: became obsessed with cleaning voids below floors. Had a Henry of my own, builder's Henry, and a Titan blower-vacuum. I'd spend whole weekends with all three running almost continuously getting read of every grain of dust and loose mortar, mouse and spider droppings, out of every crevice. Pay-off in smell removal, lungs not tightening up, and pleasant surprise of anyone who does electrics or plumbing in he voids and for me storing stuff is massive.
Thanks for the video, some good information, I've got a dot and dab boarded party wall in a bedroom that pretty much amplifies any sounds that gets into the party wall so the plasterboards need to come down and something maybe not as major as this to go up.
The noise really depends from house to house. I remember one 1960s terraced house I was renting I could hear the neighbour snoring in the night. Converted Flat with joist ceiling, are like having someone else in your house, absolutely dreadful. Instead my parents in law have a Victorian semi and can hear almost nothing to be fair, only when their neighbours play piano. Luckily now I live in a detached so no noise issue but all the walls are external walls so cold and tendency to damp... can't have it all
My 1902 house has stone walls that are at least 400mm thick I can't hear a thing from next door through the walls (and they can be pretty loud), but the neighbour still complains when I'm doing work to the place!
That framework is touching the wall via the side walls, ceiling and floors which all connect to the party wall. Surely there is some form of decoupling that can be used between the stud and the connecting points.
Yes you can get isolation strips that you attach to the timber work prior to attaching it too the wall you just run the isolation strip around the primates.gives it the decoupling 👍
Smart way to get a detached house for semi cash 💰! Well done . I Lived with neighbours from hell next door for 18 months and this treatment will add more value to the house than the cost win , win , win !
As you say, lots of ways to do this, one pointer to highlight would be to stop the insulation protruding into the void behind the timber studs you have built. The isolation gap works best if all elements are excluded from this area, not just the studwork.
@@ChickenDinnerz Well, one answer is in your own name! Chicken wire stapled between the studs to retain the insulation. Pig of a job, but it means that you can pack it tightly without it making contact with the wall behind.
This looks very labour intensive but I'm sure the results will be worth it, plus you must feel very satisfied having done all of that. A job well done!
in America duplex is a single unattached building with a fire wall down the middle 2 make two dwelling units. what your probably referring 2 is row houses (a row of attached houses in a block[an area blocked of for dwelling units]or many blocks) confident u already know this. great job by the way.
Your description of a duplex sounds exactly like a semi-detached house in the UK. Your description of row houses sounds like what is called terraced housing in the UK.
Just had all of my soundproofing delivered by soundstop - Wow what a recommendation! Never known customer service like it. High hopes this will drown out my next doors dogs! :D
I have a 1950s semi house and I have been willing to soundproofing the attached wall in one room. I would be inclined on doing something like what you have done here. My question is about damp, considering that the wall has a 75mm gap. Will I be OK and will I not have any damp between the brick wall and the new soundproofing wall?
Hi Andy! are you able to offer a general rating on how successful this was? "7/10 would recommend" type thing, it would be really helpful. I appreciate you will never 100% sound proof a partition wall but if you've reduced the noise from the neighbours but 60% then it sounds worth while
In the rooms without a fireplace it's been great but unfortunately the huge hole in the wall is a massive weak point. Certainly an improvement though. I'd say 6/10 for this room. 8/10 for other rooms. Very subjective obviously.
Amazing work. Thank you for showing how to go about insulating walls with this method. I live in a semi-detached house and am in the beginning stages of working out how much it will cost. Excellent work
Can i ask why you used a Genie Clip on a frame that is not touching the party wall? I thought the reason for using these clips is when you have no choice but to attach them onto the party wall.
Flanking sound through the party wall in the loft will be the main problem. Noise will transfer through next doors ceiling and through the party wall in the loft space especially if there are gaps in the mortar joints or around purlins where they are built into the wall. I'd treat those decibel reduction figures quoted by the seller with a HUGE pinch of salt. I assess sound test results in new and converted dwellings as a part of my job
Hi Gary, if the alcoves you're soundproofing are on the bottom floor, how would you combat this without soundproofing the upstairs alcoves? Mineral wool in the ceiling directly above? Won't give the same performance, but would this help?
I recently soundproofed a bedroom wall in a house I rent out as the party wall was so thin you could hear next door word for word. I used The Soundproofing Store’ who were amazing - they have a calculator on their website to provide a costed list of required items. Their ‘direct to wall’ reducto clip, furring bar, acoustic mineral wool, tech sound mass vinyl and double acoustic 15mm boards only lost 60mm from the room. The tenant is amazed how effective it is. I wouldn’t hesitate doing it again if I had the need.
It’s the way most builders clear up lift up a floorboard sweep all the rubbish down there, drop down a few pop bottles full of piss and put the floorboard back down (badly) so it squeaks.😉
Great vid Andy . I did one years ago and someone told me to stick a full sheet of hardboard onto the plaster with the smooth face touching the plaster , the hard flat smooth surface deflects sound back into the wall . And then do what you have done and leave an air gap , stud with acoustic insulation and plaster board . Well worth doing even though you loose a few inches off your room size
You'd have to run the numbers but I don't think the hardboard would do much. Not enough density unfortunately. Perhaps something like ceramic tiles would help. 👍
@@GosforthHandymanHardboard would help to cover a different area of the octave band dulling out some of the higher pitch noises but will have little to no effect on the lower frequencies. While mass is very important and has the biggest overall impact on overall reduction, it's equally important to cover a wide spectrum of material thicknesses and densities to cover different areas of the acoustic spectrum. As well as using damping to stop internal reverberation and lateral transmission. This is why on acoustic glass, we tend to use multiple thicknesses with multiple thicknesses of soft laminate interlayers.
Sound deadened a few of my rooms now. Daughters room was just 25mm of acoustic wool and 2 layers of acoustic plasterboard. Built an isolated stud wall in bedroom after taking chimney down and added 3mm rubber between the boards. Can sleep in peace now. Already done the lounge alcoves once but about to take chimney down in that so will completely redo the wall using the same method as yourself. Sound is a sneaky pollution. Don’t realise how bad it can be till its not there anymore
Great video! I have very loud and disrespectful neighbours so needing to do this myself. May I ask how much was spent for just this wall (approximately) TIA ☺️
@ Gosforth Handyman I’m planning on doing this in an alcove in my 1930s semi. A question though. It looks like you completely filled that gap behind the stud frame with the rock wool. I thought the point of the gap was to decouple from the party wall. Hasn’t that “separation” now been breached?
Hi Andy, firstly great and informative videos, my wife and I enjoy watching them :-) I currently have a mini renovation project ongoing myself which I'd like to include some form of sound proofing the floor between the ground and 1st floor levels. I will be installing a pool table upstairs so keen to keep the noise down of people walking about and balls being potted while my son sleeps below. I will have a doorway covered by a heavyweight curtain (appreciate this will be the worst case area for noise leakage) but the floorboards are soooo creaky I need to stop this. I was looking to install rockwool between the joists and I've seen a foam tape that people install on top of the joist and then rest the chipboard boards onto. I'd also join the boards with D4 glue. From your experience would this combination help to reduce the noise downstairs or would I be wasting my time and money?!
I’m in a part of the world where I cant buy these specially made vibration proof items. I’m going to try the same, but by using multiple rubber engine mounts, fixed into the concrete wall using M12 screw anchors. My wooden batons will be bolted to these mounts, then I can apply layers of drywall and MLV/polyurethane glue to this. The cylindrical rubber mounts are 100m deep so will provide a nice big air gap for MLV/Rockwool. I can get the mounts for $5 each and the price for the 16mm drywall and poly glue isn’t too bad either, so shouldn’t be too expensive.👍
I see you allowed air gaps around the frame but then you sealed it with acoustic mastic and then you will plaster walls isn't that not bridging it all together again, just my thoughts
By the time you have soundproofed walls how much space is taken thickness from existing to added soundproofing. Also how much depth of ceiling is required thanks. I have viewed loads of TH-camrs videos and no one tells you this information
Great vid. Highly interested in soundproofing atm. Setting up a workshop down bottom of garden. Built from wood but I'll probably make full floating walls on the inside. Not skimming it though so wondering if I'd be better doing mdf then soundtec then mdf. Not sure if mdf is more or less soundproof than acoustic board tbh. Need to do more digging
It really makes only a negligible difference in old houses with party walls and floor and ceiling joists and chimney breasts etc. Its noticeably better but you'll still hear every moan and groan (and explosion). There's a reason detached houses are so much more expensive.
I've found the soundproofing properties of MDF is great. Obviously the main disadvantage compared to plasterboard is the fire rating. I suspect acoustic plasterboard is slightly better but bet there's not much in it. 👍
I'm wondering if flexel would be good where the wood meets the walls, it's used on expansion joints in brickwork but is pretty dense, this is the best sound proofing video I have seen, just a couple of questions my joist go into the dividing walls, what about them, could you use a specialist underlay under the carpets ? and then you would have the ceiling, if you removed the plasterboard you could do with doing in-between the joist going into next door, the ironic thing is all that work and the neighbors get it for free
I had 2 layers of acoustic plasterboard fitted on my party will (I'm mid terrace), I fou d the effect mininimal, but also suspect that the decoupling wasn't done well, hope to redo it at some point - although it does feel like a losing battle at times, although new neighbors making it much less of an issue
Hi Andy . I've got a serious problem neighbor . The wall between house's are 1 old brick thick but is really like a Rizzla paper you can hear everything nightmare. What was the cost and would it be suitable for mine . Any advice would be great .
Hi I watched your video and I have the same bedroom and I wat to do same thing I was wondering for 1 bedroom like yours what do I need start to finish the job thanks.
How would you go about sound deadening a utility room? Mine is possibly ending up next to the sitting room. Even with those rubber anti-vibration feet on the washing machine it makes a right racket through the whole house. I guess the major issue is the suspended wooden floor. Although it's obviously worst when the washing machine spins, it's noisy the during the whole wash cycle, and the tumble dryer isn't much better!
Hi, great video really informative. Can I ask why you did'nt do the chimney breast, or have I missed an earlier video. We have had new neighbours move in next door who have young kids and the noise from them and the parties they have on a weekend are having a real impact on our quality of life. Its either get this done or move which we don't really want to do
How do you find the soundproofing now that the wood burner is installed? Does it let noise through? If it does let noise through is there anything that can be done?
Could you potentially bypass the metal bars and genie clips completely, Could the stud wood frame alone, support the weight of the 2 layers of soundboard and the tech sound?
Great informative vid really helped. Just wanted to ask I’m currently renovating our family home and currently the house is stripped back to the brick top to bottom 😳 Would I be able to use this system even though there is no plaster on the walls?? So put the stud work up and the clips, insulation between the gaps up against the wall (which is just brick) and then follow through with the rest…ie..plasterboard/tecsound/plasterboard/skim. Thanks again 👍🏻
Great job and glad it’s working well. Would it not have been beneficial to put a small air gap between the vinyl and the last piece of plasterboard though?
Really enjoying following the house project. Currently renovating our first house so lots to learn and this channel is very motivating and helpful so thanks! Do you think you may end up staying in this house or get it perfect and then find another?
Having done the alcoves, isn't the chimney stack shared so you still have a trombone going between the property and therefore taking away the good work you did on the alcoves?
The fireplace and chimney breast aren’t soundproofed. Is that a problem ? Appreciate the end result as you’ve done it is great but wondered about the fireplace
Those Genie Bars look like they flex a bit (obviously part of their isolation properties) and the gummy techsound must flex slightly, how do you avoid cracking in the plaster where the boards meet the original walls / corners?
@@GosforthHandyman Interesting! Just thinking back to my fathers place where the ceiling has cracked where the boards meet and that's with new joists and scrim 😬
Hi, looking to use the same products just a quick question. You have installed the stud timbers horizontal, not vertical. Instead, Would a 3rd vertical piece of timber in the centre not have been better to increase the amount of mineral wool? The wool comes at 60cm wide, not sure on the size of your alcoves but keeping the gaps between the timber, or at least 1 side to 60cm, would it be beneficial?
If your doing one long stretch day 4-5m I guess you would have choice but to use isolation strip as the runs would be too long not to need support from wall or floor?
was the insulation under the floor for sound purposes too ? would be interesting to get an idea of single layer of acoustic plasterboard vs 2 vs 2 with tecsound, and also the importance of the sealant (specialist stuff vs cheap).
I just used Firemate as the sealant and apparently it's just as good as the expensive stuff. Only a couple of quid a tube. Underfloor insulation is just for heat. 👍
I've recently moved to a victorian house with that has a similar noise issue with the alcoves, happy to do this myself after seeing this video. A bit cheeky but do know what your cost per m2 was?
Couple of corrections for this one here: gosforthhandyman.com/corrections/
Are you able to report how successful the soundproofing is now it has been fitted for a while...thank you for the great and inspirational videos and DIY tips 👍
I wish all handy men/women were as thorough as you. I love watching you work and always learn both useful or simply interesting things. Cheers Andy.
Cheers Eric!
Really nice and considerate of you to implement this feature. Noise from inconsiderate neighbours can be so debilitating. And that even goes for people living in detached houses too.
Yeah, we're not the quietest of families so one less thing to worry about 🤣
@@GosforthHandyman I'm a musician of many years standing but, I've always recognised that one man's (musical) pleasure is another man's (musical) pain!
Don’t know if I’m too late or you’ve already done it but a sound test before and after when you do the studio would be cool! Great videos
1:10 Gone but not forgotten; miss you big man!
I know, wonder how long that had been there?!?
What was it i couldnt see on phone
@@Shaunie2k A dead and decomposed bird.
Enjoying your renovation videos! Just a tip. I find using an old bread knife works really well for cutting any type of fibre insulation. The slightly serrated blade cuts through it easily!
I'll need to buy one as Mrs Mac won't let me use the house one 🤣
@pat Barter with hardly any dust or flakes in the process, it's what I used when insulating the TV/Theater room with rock wool, from the mechanical room with the 30 year old forced air furnace, can't hear it anymore.
I've just used the same system to do my living room and bedrooms on my semi detached. Has worked great made a massive difference. Cost me a fortune tho but well worth it.
May I ask roughy how much before I dive into researching before I go any further with my renovation 🙈?
@@Mr_Ashley cost me just over £5k for the lot but my living room Is really long and I also did one room which I use to play guitar in. It's made a massive difference we get on great with our neighbors but I've got a young family that are loud and hated thinking we were annoying the neighbors with kids shouting and me playing guitar.
@@dwangs465 thank you so much for your reply! Funnily enough same boat for me, I enjoy cranking the amps to 11, and my daughter is the loudest creature on earth 😂
@@Mr_Ashley Aah, that is that sound I keep hearing in the evening 😆
Glad you got sorted! Not an easy job but worth doing 👍
You are someone I'd enjoy living next to and work with
The inso helps with fire deterrent too
Cheers and should do! 👍
You are a very clever man, Andy. Now apply for a rates rebate as the inside of your house is so much smaller 🌞
Ha very kind! If only, sure it went up about 20% this year!! 😭
@@GosforthHandyman Get a water meter fitted to reduce (!??) the water bill.
Very informative video. No longer live north of Newcastle but always loved the estate your house is in. Your so lucky your on the edge looking over the stream and golf course
Cheers! Yes, lovely area, lucky find! 👍
I thought I was odd because I put in second stud walls between us and our neighbours just in case they were noisy - my wife certainly thought it was weird - glad there are at least two of us. This looks really comprehensive system. Also did the floor insulation but only I. The last 5 years but luckily we have a crawl space under our floor so glued the Kingspan to the underneath. Wish I had thought about doing it like you as soooo much easier. Love the videos.
Cheers! Got a vid coming up on the under floor insulation, only trouble is none of the joist spacings are even so cutting the insulation exactly is a challenge! 😁
Yes, our floor joists were all different spacing. Cutting Kingspan with about two feet headroom then trying to stick to the floor joists is challenging in the extreme. 🤪🤣
I had a professional sound insulation firm do my party wall. With the mass loaded vinyl they glued it to the acoustic plaster board before putting the board on the wall. Seemed like an easier way to do it. They put up the acoustic plaster board with mass loaded vinyl first, then finished with the second layer of acoustic plaster board. Protects the neighbours from the piano!
Great stuff! Yes, I've seen it done that way. Need 2 people since the boards are so heavy 🛠️😁
@@GosforthHandyman There were indeed two of them! They built a complete metal frame, attached by rubber couplings to the ceiling and floor, no connection to the party wall at all. It works very well 👍
Yup, I teach guitar and daughter plays piano
How much did this cost you if you don’t mind ?
@@ourclarioncall No problem - in mid-2016 it cost €4000 plus vat for a wall with a surface area of 13.75m2. That was for a layer of bubble wrap/silver foil stuff for thermal isolation, steel frame on two layers of rubber mounts, thick wool, compressed wool, loaded rubber, two layers of acoustic plaster board, finishing and painting, three sockets/switches with acoustic back boxes.
@@Richardincancale that’s about the same size of my living room party wall. Thanks for the info 👍
I'm doing something similar to a slightly lesser extent. I have a particularly annoyingly loud next door neighbor who seems to live in their bedroom and gabs in a very loud voice overnight. I'm skipping the mass loaded vinyl and just having a pair of plasterboards, I'm also planning on using acoustic tape across the studwork. I think it should be quite sufficient.
Hey Andy, at 15:50 I thought you could have matched the pattern of the wallpaper a little better.
Lol, was gonna say the same.
I know, was a bit gutted that I was only about an inch out 🤣
Excellent technique and job well done. As you know, separation is the key. Soundproofing is an interesting subject and well worth the extra expense.
Wish I'd seen this 8 years ago when started on house we now live in. One thing I really did get right though: became obsessed with cleaning voids below floors. Had a Henry of my own, builder's Henry, and a Titan blower-vacuum. I'd spend whole weekends with all three running almost continuously getting read of every grain of dust and loose mortar, mouse and spider droppings, out of every crevice. Pay-off in smell removal, lungs not tightening up, and pleasant surprise of anyone who does electrics or plumbing in he voids and for me storing stuff is massive.
Defo worthwhile while the floors are up! 👍
Yeah, I’d be the same! Good work
Thanks for the video, some good information, I've got a dot and dab boarded party wall in a bedroom that pretty much amplifies any sounds that gets into the party wall so the plasterboards need to come down and something maybe not as major as this to go up.
Very nice work Andy (and a great series) - good to see you and PeterM getting a thumbs up from the Sunday Times. 😀👍
Thank you and I know! Mad eh? Never been in the Sunday Times before. 🤣
acoustic silicone between the stud and bwk, around all the p/b, and between any joint
The noise really depends from house to house. I remember one 1960s terraced house I was renting I could hear the neighbour snoring in the night. Converted Flat with joist ceiling, are like having someone else in your house, absolutely dreadful. Instead my parents in law have a Victorian semi and can hear almost nothing to be fair, only when their neighbours play piano. Luckily now I live in a detached so no noise issue but all the walls are external walls so cold and tendency to damp... can't have it all
Yeah, some older Victorian stock is amazingly soundproof. Dense bricks and small mortar lines probably help too 👍
My 1902 house has stone walls that are at least 400mm thick I can't hear a thing from next door through the walls (and they can be pretty loud), but the neighbour still complains when I'm doing work to the place!
That framework is touching the wall via the side walls, ceiling and floors which all connect to the party wall. Surely there is some form of decoupling that can be used between the stud and the connecting points.
Yes you can get isolation strips that you attach to the timber work prior to attaching it too the wall you just run the isolation strip around the primates.gives it the decoupling 👍
Smart way to get a detached house for semi cash 💰! Well done . I Lived with neighbours from hell next door for 18 months and this treatment will add more value to the house than the cost win , win , win !
As you say, lots of ways to do this, one pointer to highlight would be to stop the insulation protruding into the void behind the timber studs you have built. The isolation gap works best if all elements are excluded from this area, not just the studwork.
Any advice on how to stop this? Currently struggling with rockwool flopping towards the party wall that m trying to isolate with new stud structure
@@ChickenDinnerz Well, one answer is in your own name! Chicken wire stapled between the studs to retain the insulation. Pig of a job, but it means that you can pack it tightly without it making contact with the wall behind.
@@videogalore haha thanks. Will give it a go
Thanks for the tips I'm planning on doing this. My house is only breeze block on either side so I can hear everything.
This looks very labour intensive but I'm sure the results will be worth it, plus you must feel very satisfied having done all of that. A job well done!
Cheers! Yeah, not too bad. Takes about a day and a half to do a room 👍
in America duplex is a single unattached building with a fire wall down the middle 2 make two dwelling units. what your probably referring 2 is row houses (a row of attached houses in a block[an area blocked of for dwelling units]or many blocks) confident u already know this. great job by the way.
Your description of a duplex sounds exactly like a semi-detached house in the UK. Your description of row houses sounds like what is called terraced housing in the UK.
👍👍
Just had all of my soundproofing delivered by soundstop - Wow what a recommendation! Never known customer service like it. High hopes this will drown out my next doors dogs! :D
Did it..?
Certainly not a audible as they where!
You must have all of the cables in your PC lined up neat, tie wrapped, colour coordinated etc. I can tell. Great vid. 👍
I have a 1950s semi house and I have been willing to soundproofing the attached wall in one room. I would be inclined on doing something like what you have done here. My question is about damp, considering that the wall has a 75mm gap. Will I be OK and will I not have any damp between the brick wall and the new soundproofing wall?
Hi Andy! are you able to offer a general rating on how successful this was? "7/10 would recommend" type thing, it would be really helpful. I appreciate you will never 100% sound proof a partition wall but if you've reduced the noise from the neighbours but 60% then it sounds worth while
In the rooms without a fireplace it's been great but unfortunately the huge hole in the wall is a massive weak point. Certainly an improvement though. I'd say 6/10 for this room. 8/10 for other rooms. Very subjective obviously.
We find sound carries up the chimney. Surely the chimney breast is the weak link here?
Amazing work. Thank you for showing how to go about insulating walls with this method. I live in a semi-detached house and am in the beginning stages of working out how much it will cost. Excellent work
very well presented content, refreshing style and clear information.
Very thorough, but I'd expect to get most of the 'party' noise from the chimney breast ? And you've left it untreated?
You should get some of that gapo tape for your PIR insulation. It works great especially for old timbers that aren't straight anymore.
Can i ask why you used a Genie Clip on a frame that is not touching the party wall? I thought the reason for using these clips is when you have no choice but to attach them onto the party wall.
Flanking sound through the party wall in the loft will be the main problem. Noise will transfer through next doors ceiling and through the party wall in the loft space especially if there are gaps in the mortar joints or around purlins where they are built into the wall. I'd treat those decibel reduction figures quoted by the seller with a HUGE pinch of salt. I assess sound test results in new and converted dwellings as a part of my job
Hi Gary, if the alcoves you're soundproofing are on the bottom floor, how would you combat this without soundproofing the upstairs alcoves? Mineral wool in the ceiling directly above? Won't give the same performance, but would this help?
I recently soundproofed a bedroom wall in a house I rent out as the party wall was so thin you could hear next door word for word. I used The Soundproofing Store’ who were amazing - they have a calculator on their website to provide a costed list of required items. Their ‘direct to wall’ reducto clip, furring bar, acoustic mineral wool, tech sound mass vinyl and double acoustic 15mm boards only lost 60mm from the room. The tenant is amazed how effective it is. I wouldn’t hesitate doing it again if I had the need.
Great stuff! Yes, Soundstop have the calculator - very useful! You can check it out at www.soundstop.co.uk/ 👍
How well has this reduced the sound from next door? I'm looking into a lot of different solutions and this one seems to be a good idea
Nothing more satisfying than putting the boards back having cleaned out the rubbish the lazy bugger who was last there, decided to leave.
Defo! Very satisfying job 😁
It’s the way most builders clear up lift up a floorboard sweep all the rubbish down there, drop down a few pop bottles full of piss and put the floorboard back down (badly) so it squeaks.😉
Great work Andy, great insight experience and detail
Great vid Andy . I did one years ago and someone told me to stick a full sheet of hardboard onto the plaster with the smooth face touching the plaster , the hard flat smooth surface deflects sound back into the wall . And then do what you have done and leave an air gap , stud with acoustic insulation and plaster board . Well worth doing even though you loose a few inches off your room size
You'd have to run the numbers but I don't think the hardboard would do much. Not enough density unfortunately. Perhaps something like ceramic tiles would help. 👍
@@GosforthHandymanHardboard would help to cover a different area of the octave band dulling out some of the higher pitch noises but will have little to no effect on the lower frequencies. While mass is very important and has the biggest overall impact on overall reduction, it's equally important to cover a wide spectrum of material thicknesses and densities to cover different areas of the acoustic spectrum. As well as using damping to stop internal reverberation and lateral transmission.
This is why on acoustic glass, we tend to use multiple thicknesses with multiple thicknesses of soft laminate interlayers.
Kudos on the approach re flanking. Hats off to you sir.
Cheers! Seems to work really well 👍
Sound deadened a few of my rooms now. Daughters room was just 25mm of acoustic wool and 2 layers of acoustic plasterboard. Built an isolated stud wall in bedroom after taking chimney down and added 3mm rubber between the boards. Can sleep in peace now. Already done the lounge alcoves once but about to take chimney down in that so will completely redo the wall using the same method as yourself.
Sound is a sneaky pollution. Don’t realise how bad it can be till its not there anymore
Indeed - it can be a challenge! Good luck with yours! 👍
Great video! I have very loud and disrespectful neighbours so needing to do this myself. May I ask how much was spent for just this wall (approximately) TIA ☺️
@ Gosforth Handyman I’m planning on doing this in an alcove in my 1930s semi. A question though. It looks like you completely filled that gap behind the stud frame with the rock wool. I thought the point of the gap was to decouple from the party wall. Hasn’t that “separation” now been breached?
Hi Andy, firstly great and informative videos, my wife and I enjoy watching them :-) I currently have a mini renovation project ongoing myself which I'd like to include some form of sound proofing the floor between the ground and 1st floor levels. I will be installing a pool table upstairs so keen to keep the noise down of people walking about and balls being potted while my son sleeps below. I will have a doorway covered by a heavyweight curtain (appreciate this will be the worst case area for noise leakage) but the floorboards are soooo creaky I need to stop this. I was looking to install rockwool between the joists and I've seen a foam tape that people install on top of the joist and then rest the chipboard boards onto. I'd also join the boards with D4 glue. From your experience would this combination help to reduce the noise downstairs or would I be wasting my time and money?!
Thank you for this video have now got a better idea how to help my friend who has a problem with his neighbour...
No worries! It's always a balance as nothing is 100% do just down to how far you want to push it. 👍
I’m in a part of the world where I cant buy these specially made vibration proof items. I’m going to try the same, but by using multiple rubber engine mounts, fixed into the concrete wall using M12 screw anchors. My wooden batons will be bolted to these mounts, then I can apply layers of drywall and MLV/polyurethane glue to this. The cylindrical rubber mounts are 100m deep so will provide a nice big air gap for MLV/Rockwool. I can get the mounts for $5 each and the price for the 16mm drywall and poly glue isn’t too bad either, so shouldn’t be too expensive.👍
How did this work out for you with the engine mounts?
Yes, semi-detached house in the UK = duplex house in the US.
Cool - cheers! 👍
Yes. We call it a duplex in the US.
Thought so! 👍😬
I see you allowed air gaps around the frame but then you sealed it with acoustic mastic and then you will plaster walls isn't that not bridging it all together again, just my thoughts
By the time you have soundproofed walls how much space is taken thickness from existing to added soundproofing.
Also how much depth of ceiling is required thanks.
I have viewed loads of TH-camrs videos and no one tells you this information
Do you have to give notice to neighbours under the 1996 party wall act for this type of work? Or get building regulations approval?
No
Great vid. Highly interested in soundproofing atm. Setting up a workshop down bottom of garden. Built from wood but I'll probably make full floating walls on the inside. Not skimming it though so wondering if I'd be better doing mdf then soundtec then mdf. Not sure if mdf is more or less soundproof than acoustic board tbh. Need to do more digging
It really makes only a negligible difference in old houses with party walls and floor and ceiling joists and chimney breasts etc. Its noticeably better but you'll still hear every moan and groan (and explosion). There's a reason detached houses are so much more expensive.
I've found the soundproofing properties of MDF is great. Obviously the main disadvantage compared to plasterboard is the fire rating. I suspect acoustic plasterboard is slightly better but bet there's not much in it. 👍
It looks like you squeezed 2 layers of 50mm rockwool into a 50mm frame, is that right?
Top video, very informative, just what I needed. Thanks pal !
Hi brilliant videos. One question, which floor you have noticed the best for sounds proofing from your party wall Upstairs or downstair?
Your music is always great, but in this episode it's awesome.
Great work and thanks for sharing this with us take care
No worries! 👍
I'm wondering if flexel would be good where the wood meets the walls, it's used on expansion joints in brickwork but is pretty dense, this is the best sound proofing video I have seen, just a couple of questions my joist go into the dividing walls, what about them, could you use a specialist underlay under the carpets ? and then you would have the ceiling, if you removed the plasterboard you could do with doing in-between the joist going into next door, the ironic thing is all that work and the neighbors get it for free
Can one hang a heavy mirror on this using plasterboard fixtures I.e grip fit
I had 2 layers of acoustic plasterboard fitted on my party will (I'm mid terrace), I fou d the effect mininimal, but also suspect that the decoupling wasn't done well, hope to redo it at some point - although it does feel like a losing battle at times, although new neighbors making it much less of an issue
Yeah, needs decoupled or won't work. 👍
Hi Andy . I've got a serious problem neighbor . The wall between house's are 1 old brick thick but is really like a Rizzla paper you can hear everything nightmare. What was the cost and would it be suitable for mine .
Any advice would be great .
Hi I watched your video and I have the same bedroom and I wat to do same thing I was wondering for 1 bedroom like yours what do I need start to finish the job thanks.
How would you go about sound deadening a utility room? Mine is possibly ending up next to the sitting room. Even with those rubber anti-vibration feet on the washing machine it makes a right racket through the whole house. I guess the major issue is the suspended wooden floor. Although it's obviously worst when the washing machine spins, it's noisy the during the whole wash cycle, and the tumble dryer isn't much better!
Great video again. Does no sound come through the chimney breast? I used to have a back boiler apparently.
Hi, great video really informative. Can I ask why you did'nt do the chimney breast, or have I missed an earlier video.
We have had new neighbours move in next door who have young kids and the noise from them and the parties they
have on a weekend are having a real impact on our quality of life. Its either get this done or move which we don't really
want to do
How long did it take for you to complete this from start to finish and how much thickness did you increase on you're wall?
Based on the video, its likely the alcoves were reduced in depth by around 6 inches ish.
How do you find the soundproofing now that the wood burner is installed? Does it let noise through? If it does let noise through is there anything that can be done?
Great job Andy, could do with some of that with our neighbours I tell ya, Stay Safe Mate !!!.
Cheers Brian!
Could you potentially bypass the metal bars and genie clips completely, Could the stud wood frame alone, support the weight of the 2 layers of soundboard and the tech sound?
This is what I'm wondering, plus the cost of the bars and clips is pushing it a bit for me...
Hi mate, Do you need do stagger the plasterboard joints between the two layers?
What are the names of the songs used in this video? They are so good!
Great informative vid really helped.
Just wanted to ask I’m currently renovating our family home and currently the house is stripped back to the brick top to bottom 😳
Would I be able to use this system even though there is no plaster on the walls??
So put the stud work up and the clips, insulation between the gaps up against the wall (which is just brick) and then follow through with the rest…ie..plasterboard/tecsound/plasterboard/skim.
Thanks again 👍🏻
Yes!
Great job and glad it’s working well.
Would it not have been beneficial to put a small air gap between the vinyl and the last piece of plasterboard though?
Very difficult to achieve without another stud wall 👍
Really enjoying following the house project. Currently renovating our first house so lots to learn and this channel is very motivating and helpful so thanks! Do you think you may end up staying in this house or get it perfect and then find another?
I think we'll be here at least until the kids leave home. Best of luck with yours. 👍
Having done the alcoves, isn't the chimney stack shared so you still have a trombone going between the property and therefore taking away the good work you did on the alcoves?
Yes, duplex in the U.S.!
Cheers for the info! 👍
Could the inglenook be lined similarly, but with the seconf skin of plasterboard replaced with cement board?
It's already lined with fire board but not sure it would help much as most of the sound would escape through the registration plate and over the top.
The one downvote is from the guy that always tells people “if it’s too loud you’re too old”
or else the nosey neighbour who has their ear against the wall and likes to listen-in on the other neighrbours conversations through the wall
Even so, I'll probably keep my big drums out of the house 😁
Hi. Nice work. Do you get much noise through the back of the fireplace area where there is no sound proofing?
Yes, unfortunately the inglenook is always a problem - very difficult to treat if the chimney is used.
Is there any loading issues with the plasterbosrds on the furing bars, say if I wanted to mount a large tv on that wall?
The fireplace and chimney breast aren’t soundproofed. Is that a problem ? Appreciate the end result as you’ve done it is great but wondered about the fireplace
The chimney breast is dot & dabbed with acoustic plasterboard but the inglenook is very difficult to treat 👍
@@GosforthHandyman
Of course, thanks. You could always stuff some Sunderland supporters in there. They’re pretty dense, allegedly 😳
What would you do with sockets in the wall? I was thinking you could build an acoustic box behind it and seal with acoustic sealent
Those Genie Bars look like they flex a bit (obviously part of their isolation properties) and the gummy techsound must flex slightly, how do you avoid cracking in the plaster where the boards meet the original walls / corners?
Once they're loaded up there's no flex. Just scrim on the corners and no cracking. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman Interesting! Just thinking back to my fathers place where the ceiling has cracked where the boards meet and that's with new joists and scrim 😬
Well worth the work! Have a good week. x
Thank you, yes, huge difference! 👍
Hi, looking to use the same products just a quick question. You have installed the stud timbers horizontal, not vertical. Instead, Would a 3rd vertical piece of timber in the centre not have been better to increase the amount of mineral wool? The wool comes at 60cm wide, not sure on the size of your alcoves but keeping the gaps between the timber, or at least 1 side to 60cm, would it be beneficial?
If your doing one long stretch day 4-5m I guess you would have choice but to use isolation strip as the runs would be too long not to need support from wall or floor?
Yeah, although the GenieClips already decouple the system so probably wouldn't make a huge difference 👍
was the insulation under the floor for sound purposes too ? would be interesting to get an idea of single layer of acoustic plasterboard vs 2 vs 2 with tecsound, and also the importance of the sealant (specialist stuff vs cheap).
I just used Firemate as the sealant and apparently it's just as good as the expensive stuff. Only a couple of quid a tube. Underfloor insulation is just for heat. 👍
You're a star! Been looking for good tips for installing this stuff and this was perfect! Subbed for more!, Love doing a bit of DIY at home👍👍
Great video, very helpful! Thanks!🙂
I'm only in Sunderland, could you do my living room party wall please? I'm in desperate need! 🙌
I am about to undertake the same project. Can I ask what screws you used to attach the boards to the furring channels? Were they self drilling?
Hi, is there anyway the noise still transmits through the actual chimney breast?
I've recently moved to a victorian house with that has a similar noise issue with the alcoves, happy to do this myself after seeing this video. A bit cheeky but do know what your cost per m2 was?
If you're adding 2 layers of plasterboard, why not add the sound insulation to the 2nd board whilst on the floor, then screw in place?
It's then too heavy to lift by yourself. 👍
So, you did not treat the back of the chimney wall?
There's no real point - sound just travels through the very thin register plate above the stove. 😭
Yes, they're called duplexes over here on the other side of the pond.
👍