Hell yeah man 🤘 makes such a big difference! Couldn’t tell in the video, but it was hitting hard enough to make it spin for a second between shifts lol feels so good now! What valvebody did you go with?
@@idontlikecops1 tbh I think it does but my exhaust is to loud at WOT so I can’t really hear it. And the truck is stock basically nothing but intake header back exhaust(just have the high flow cats from bassani) want to do more but I risk getting state ref sadly I’m in Cali. Recently pulled the blower off cleaned everything and replaced my intercooler pump because I’d seize from time to time.
What made you go with A1? I'm leaning towards JLP. They have a great deal right now VB, deep pan and filter for $415 but still deciding between JLP, A1 and punisher. They all have good reviews. Definitely seems like Chris at A1 has the best street cred when it comes to transmissions though.
A1 is second to none and he really knows his stuff. You can tell him your exact setup, and he can build a valvebody exactly how you need it. That being said, if your truck is just bolt ons with a stock converter, the JLP will be good, I had one and was pretty happy with it (it'd bark the tires in 2nd lol). But once you start doing different converters, go built, ect, A1 is the only option.
@@mercury0214 alittle bit, not going to lower it too much. 1 inch in the front, 3 in the back, just to close up some wheel gap. Definitely not low low though. I want it to work at the track/for racing LOL
My truck is lowered 3/2 bought it like that and recently installed the 4x4 pan doesn’t hang that low it does depends on the streets in your area my streets are usually pretty good.
A1 is the guru for these transmissions, really knows the ins and outs, and builds a better valvebody. JLP is ok, I had one when my converter was stock, and it shifted good. But now that I have a higher stall, it softens the shifts even with the valvebody, and I have to compensate for that with a better, more aggressive valvebody, and Chris Garret at A1 is the man for that.
Shift points, yes, but as far as stiffness goes, that's the wrong way to go about doing it, as it puts extra stress on the trans pump, causes more heat, and wear on the trans. The valvebody is the correct way to stiffen shifts (mechanically via springs, valves, ect in the valvebody), reducing clutch slippage, heat, and extending the life of your trans, all without putting any extra stress on your trans pump. Not to mention, you'll never get them anywhere near as stiff as you can by doing it correct, by changing the valvebody.
Sure you can but it's nothing compared to a valve body. I have also done electronic tuning on these truck. I modified the tq lock from 37mph to 42. In overdrive. Moved the shift schedule up a bit with low TP. The tuner is limited to what you should modify in TP pressure because there is a slip timing on these trucks that other trans don't have. You can firm up the torque reduction on shifts also. But a higher shift reduction sounds mighty cool when the ignition shuts off and it spits out the exhaust pipe. I wouldn't add to much shift pressure on these trans electronically because it will drain the global circuit when turning up shift 1-2 3-4 shift pressures. Your best bet is a drilled pump with a shift kit like suggested in this video. You can also add a 500 line modulator valve along with the kit. You can't go wrong at all
On my truck, it’s great, but I also have a converter. On a stock converter it may be too much, you’d have to ask him. On a stock converter truck, I’d say go with street.
What kind of cold air intake is that? I have a CNL elbow I didn’t know if I can retain that still use whatever you got? Cause that looks like it works.
JLP Ram air kit, truest cold air kit for these trucks, and It work's with the C&L, but it will rub unless you do alittle trick I learned. Buy a 45 degree coupler from siliconeintakes.com, and cut the ends off so its not so long. That angles the top of the box down, giving plenty of clearance for the hood.
@@DebtLife_Projects thanks for the reply. was just wondering, I recently bought a lightning and don't know what fluid the previous owner used so just wanted to make sure Mercon V would be fine.
In the works! It's got a fully built longblock, trans, ect. Ready for all the power I can make! M122 swap coming soon, then 2.3TVS. Wanna push the Eaton first and see what I can do, should be mid 500s/low 11's.
If your just dropping the pan and doing the valvebody you'll need 6-8 qts, depending on what pan you use. If your changing the entire system, you'll need 16-18qts.
16 is for the entire transmission system (filling the rest of the trans, converter, lines, cooler, ect). If you're just dropping the pan to change the valvebody, it's only 6-8 qts.
@@michaelthompson4178 yeah the shifts were way to hard for my taste. I'd ease off from a stop light making a turn and it would chirp the tires. Over time it just becomes so annoying
Thanks for Watching! What'd ya think? Let me know below!
Drop a LIKE for that WHINE too! ⚡⚡⚡
I would've happily given you the Punisher valve body that's in mine FOR FREE.
I guess I'm getting old. I just want a smooth factory-style shift lol
Great how to vid! Amazing that you were able to change that valve body, without raising the truck!?!? 🤔 Wow!!! 😳😊
Thanks! 🤘 It helps that my truck is still sitting high lol 😆 no way I’d do that if it was lowered
One of the best sounding trucks I’ve heard!
Super nice truck.I bought the same accumulater valve body.it definitely made big difference in my shifts.
Thank you! Makes a night and day difference, that's for sure 🤘😁 I love mine!
I just installed my valve body on Tuesday made the 1-2 2-3 10x better just waiting on my trac bars to show up.
Also installed my 4x4 pan.
Does it chirp?
Hell yeah man 🤘 makes such a big difference! Couldn’t tell in the video, but it was hitting hard enough to make it spin for a second between shifts lol feels so good now! What valvebody did you go with?
@@idontlikecops1 tbh I think it does but my exhaust is to loud at WOT so I can’t really hear it. And the truck is stock basically nothing but intake header back exhaust(just have the high flow cats from bassani) want to do more but I risk getting state ref sadly I’m in Cali. Recently pulled the blower off cleaned everything and replaced my intercooler pump because I’d seize from time to time.
@@DebtLife_Projects went with the Punisher street valve body.
I've got a 99 lightning..man that sounds incredible!
Thanks! 🤘😁
Nice...got one in mines too...shifts firm and chirps 1-2nd when I get on it...it's a bad ass feeling lol
Hell yeah it is, really changes the whole truck, one of my top mods
Great work! Do you happen to have the part# for the transmission pan gasket?
What made you go with A1? I'm leaning towards JLP. They have a great deal right now VB, deep pan and filter for $415 but still deciding between JLP, A1 and punisher. They all have good reviews. Definitely seems like Chris at A1 has the best street cred when it comes to transmissions though.
A1 is second to none and he really knows his stuff. You can tell him your exact setup, and he can build a valvebody exactly how you need it. That being said, if your truck is just bolt ons with a stock converter, the JLP will be good, I had one and was pretty happy with it (it'd bark the tires in 2nd lol). But once you start doing different converters, go built, ect, A1 is the only option.
She is screaming bro I love it great work bro 🙌
Thanks bro! It’s screaming pretty good! Cant wait to get it to the track and see some numbers 😁🤘
@@DebtLife_Projects can't wait to see that video bro 🙌
Would you recommend the 4x4 transmission pan even if you have the truck lowered.
Now that's a good question, I'd ask chris at A1 about that, he'd know better than I would. I'm still rocking 4x4 stance LOL, so idk yet 😅
@@DebtLife_Projects you ever think you’ll lower it? I like lowered trucks but at the same time I also love function lol
@@mercury0214 alittle bit, not going to lower it too much. 1 inch in the front, 3 in the back, just to close up some wheel gap. Definitely not low low though. I want it to work at the track/for racing LOL
My truck is lowered 3/2 bought it like that and recently installed the 4x4 pan doesn’t hang that low it does depends on the streets in your area my streets are usually pretty good.
When you were doing your test hits , was the OD on or off?
Off. Always do any pulls, races, or WOT runs with OD off.
@@DebtLife_Projects 🫡
Mercon is like gold to me lol my 5r55w takes it and sucks to find!
And great video bro you can hear In the exhaust how much harder it’s shifting
Thanks! Yeah it feels pretty damn good! Spins the tires over between shifts now 🤘😁
@@DebtLife_Projects sick dude absolutely love the build
Why you went with A1 and not jlp just asking cause I’m buying a valve body and can’t decide
A1 is the guru for these transmissions, really knows the ins and outs, and builds a better valvebody. JLP is ok, I had one when my converter was stock, and it shifted good. But now that I have a higher stall, it softens the shifts even with the valvebody, and I have to compensate for that with a better, more aggressive valvebody, and Chris Garret at A1 is the man for that.
@@DebtLife_Projects I have stock converter what you recommend I’ll add it to the cart right now lol
I'd personally do the A1 street.
@@DebtLife_Projects done thanks man!
nice truck man sounds gooood !! 🔥⚡️🔥⚡️
Thanks man 🤘😁 appreciate it! ⚡️
What size are your Weld wheels? Backspacing? Tire size?
These are RaceStars. 15x10s with 325/50r15 in the rear and 17x7 with 235/65r17s in front. Not sure of the backspacing, it's been a while.
You can adjust shift points and stiffness with a tuner.
Shift points, yes, but as far as stiffness goes, that's the wrong way to go about doing it, as it puts extra stress on the trans pump, causes more heat, and wear on the trans. The valvebody is the correct way to stiffen shifts (mechanically via springs, valves, ect in the valvebody), reducing clutch slippage, heat, and extending the life of your trans, all without putting any extra stress on your trans pump. Not to mention, you'll never get them anywhere near as stiff as you can by doing it correct, by changing the valvebody.
Sure you can but it's nothing compared to a valve body.
I have also done electronic tuning on these truck. I modified the tq lock from 37mph to 42. In overdrive. Moved the shift schedule up a bit with low TP.
The tuner is limited to what you should modify in TP pressure because there is a slip timing on these trucks that other trans don't have. You can firm up the torque reduction on shifts also. But a higher shift reduction sounds mighty cool when the ignition shuts off and it spits out the exhaust pipe.
I wouldn't add to much shift pressure on these trans electronically because it will drain the global circuit when turning up shift 1-2 3-4 shift pressures.
Your best bet is a drilled pump with a shift kit like suggested in this video.
You can also add a 500 line modulator valve along with the kit. You can't go wrong at all
I plan on buying a lightning here soon and I wanna change the valve body which one do you recommend for a stock converter and transmission
A1 street version. A1 is really good at what they do, and know what these transmissions like. It'll be a whole different animal
@@DebtLife_Projects thank you! I love your lightning and your videos are so helpful thank you for what you do!
Nice...................I miss my truck....
I bet! Probably sucks watching my videos lol 😆
He has race and street. How's the driveability of the race valve body?
On my truck, it’s great, but I also have a converter. On a stock converter it may be too much, you’d have to ask him. On a stock converter truck, I’d say go with street.
Definitely a nice mod to do! Nice video!
Thanks man! 🤘
What kind of cold air intake is that? I have a CNL elbow I didn’t know if I can retain that still use whatever you got? Cause that looks like it works.
JLP Ram air kit, truest cold air kit for these trucks, and It work's with the C&L, but it will rub unless you do alittle trick I learned. Buy a 45 degree coupler from siliconeintakes.com, and cut the ends off so its not so long. That angles the top of the box down, giving plenty of clearance for the hood.
Is mercon V good for these? I thought it was supposed to use mercon III
Yup. Mercon V supersedes that and is what everyone uses now, including the guru for these transmissions, Chris Garret at A1
@@DebtLife_Projects thanks for the reply. was just wondering, I recently bought a lightning and don't know what fluid the previous owner used so just wanted to make sure Mercon V would be fine.
Hi does the truck have aftermarket cams? Sounds dope!
Yup, fully built JDM Engineering longblock with stage 2 cams. Thanks! 🤘
@@DebtLife_Projects Good stuff! Thanks!
Been waiting for this video bro thank you!✅
Also if i only drive my truck on the weekends which valvebody you think i should run? Street or race?
I’d get with chris at A1on that, he’d know whether or not the race would be too much for your truck.
Can I remplace the VALVE BODY with out a tune ?
No tune is technically required, but if you have your shift pressure raised in your current tune, you will want to have them lowered back down.
@@DebtLife_Projects thanks! ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Wow bad ass man ! 🤩
How do you like the CAI? I have the same one and I think it’s pretty nice.
what size is the accumulator on the valve body? Im hoping its the 427......
Would you do (2) Wide band Afr or one?
Great question. I’m actually addressing this soon, I would run two widebands, and tune to the leanest bank, for maximum safety.
Sorry random question but what bedcover do you have? Link?
Truxedo Lo Pro, I got it from Jeff Wallace on the facebook groups.
@@DebtLife_Projects bed size?
@@DebtLife_Projects bed size?
6.5 ft bed. Pretty sure the part number is TruXedo 548601
How do I get a printed list of all those mods you recommended to do on the 2003 Lightning ?
Thanks
Nice !! What exhaust are you running?
Full ARH. 1 7/8 longtube headers, 3 inch with high flow cats. My favorite exhaust for sure, I love it, sounds so good
Looks like its shifting hard, hard to tell, but it sure does seem like its pulling good! Sounds 🤤 soooo good 🤘
Thanks! It is shifting harder than the video shows, feels sooooo good!
Great video! Thank you for the great detail. 02 f150 Harley #1595.
Nice truck. Put a bigger blower on it
In the works! It's got a fully built longblock, trans, ect. Ready for all the power I can make! M122 swap coming soon, then 2.3TVS. Wanna push the Eaton first and see what I can do, should be mid 500s/low 11's.
How much are you at ?
Power
Does the stock lightning take 15 quarts or 5 for the transmission video got me confused can anyone help ?
If your just dropping the pan and doing the valvebody you'll need 6-8 qts, depending on what pan you use. If your changing the entire system, you'll need 16-18qts.
6 quarts? I thought for Lightning’s it was 16
16 is for the entire transmission system (filling the rest of the trans, converter, lines, cooler, ect). If you're just dropping the pan to change the valvebody, it's only 6-8 qts.
RRRRrrrrEEEEEEEEeeeEEEEEEEeeeEEE ⚡⚡⚡
I put one in my Lightning and I absolutely hate it. If you DD your truck, I don't recommend this mod at all.
Why is that? Are the shifts too hard? I don't daily my ⚡more of a weekend/weekday cruiser.
@@michaelthompson4178 yeah the shifts were way to hard for my taste. I'd ease off from a stop light making a turn and it would chirp the tires. Over time it just becomes so annoying
@@CMichaelLyle was it street setting?