My grandmother - Elsa Marie Burberry (after whom I am named) had a great saying "If you feel inferior it's because you are). She was the wife of one of the last two directors of Burberry's, Arthur Ralph Burberry. With whom she had a son , Thomas Ralph Newman Burberry, who was a Mink Farmer...Chairman of The British Mink Society. A member of this family I have been dismayed at the downgrading of this Brand. It isn't , never was meant to be worn by 'Esturial England'. Too grand , too exclusive. The original tartan has been mucked about with. Burberry was never suited to The Catwalk nor to the Mass Market Place. Burberry looks good in a Bugatti Royale , in a Morgan 4/4 , but not in a Ford Fiesta.The Brand is unique.I don't have one !
Thank you for your kind reply. One of the other Directors , Michael Ralph Burberry. Has a daughter , Elaine and I got in touch with her and it was she who told me that Burberry went into receivership and was lost to our family because the Government Office responsible for settling it's debts to it's Wartime Suppliers didn't settle. The upset to the family was massive , as you can imagine. I have a fantastic portrait of my father when a young Pilot Officer , wearing his uniform Ade by - Burberry's.Bests from me, Elsa-marie .@@understitchYT
It is a fabric and the fabric has been used to make coats that are dirt and water repellent. The rest is fantasy and money-making. I don't understand all the status nonsense. I wear mine on the subway on the way to the office. Should you be able to get upset about the quality? Absolutely. The rest is rubbish.
"my grandmother didn't want inferior people to wear our clothing and I have to agree. Inferior people have no place buying clothing that I've decided they don't deserve." Also, invest in a better translator and autocorrect lol. "Esturial" isn't a word and half of this comment is borderline unreadable. I don't have one!!
In my opinion, the best era of Burberry was Christopher Bailey's era. Everything was done beautifully, elegant and classic pieces that were not terribly trendy, the era of the early 2010's was their golden age. I'm excited to see Daniel's Lee take on it and whether or not we'd get back to that Burberry.
I think it's tricky with Burberry because there simply is less to build off of in the heritage of the label. Almost everything we think of as signatre Burberry today is from Christopher Bailey who really expanded the vision, the pov of Burberry to what we know today. I think DL is taking it back to then, which in turn was CB's take on the burberry heritage. But, I also dont think it will continue this way endlessly. I think DL is restablishing CBs burberry, almost in an erasure of RT, then will develop his idea of Burberry from there, which is why Im so excited about it
I remember my grocery store manager mom bringing me a copy of Australian vogue when I was 13/14 and there was this full page ad of newcomer Sam Riley in a Burberry coat, brooding in the cold out in the woods somewhere. I fell in love with this coat. I knew there was nothing quite like it because even back then my eyes - which would not be able to tell luxury from fast fashion- could recognise the quality, the tactile tweed fabric, the warmth, the clean lines through this BLACK and WHITE ad. I showed the picture to my 11 year old brother in awe, who fell in love with this coat just as much. It was decided, this was the first piece of designer item we would get when we become rich. To own burberry, was akin to being embraced by the English upper echelon. Oh to walk briskly across London town, on a gloomy afternoon in my grey Burberry coat. I carefully cut out the ad and to this day it sits prefectly glossy inside it's clear sleeve, waiting to be hung on a wall, or pasted onto a scrapbook or displayed at a gallery. But i keep it to myself. Offcourse I'm an adult now, I can let go of this piece of paper and go buy myself a coat. But my fulfilment of teenage dreams can't be bought with money. I'll never be able to buy what Bailey and Co tried to sell me all those years ago with their glossy pages, modeled by hot, young, not yet established, British, creatives like Roo Panes, Douglas Booth, Rosie Huntington, Emma Watson looking moody but snuggled in those thick heavy coats. That and the Australian weather would make me look like a fool. As for my brother, the keys to his BMW hang on a Burberry key chain.
Im going to need to see this image!! If you have insta please send it to me, this was such a lovely story 🙌 its so nice to hear such a heartwarming story of sibling affection
I didn't know Daniel Lee went to Burberry, this is all super interesting to see. Personally, I have a positive opinion of Burberry's coats/jackets in particular. I went to a major outlet mall a few months back and was surprised at how low the quality of materials were in most of the luxury stores - I know it's on purpose, but it was still shocking to experience. And since I'm blind, quality of material is a really big proponent of buying expensive clothes. So I was particularly impressed with how nice their outerwear felt. Especially with Daniel Lee joining the brand I'll be pining for a jacket
They havent changed their garbardine for many years I believe and all the jackets Ive had from them have all been extremely top notch. I even had a coat from Bailey’s Burberry back in the day (bought second hand) and it is still completely perfect to this day. I really agree with the fabric quality notes you made. Good quality fabric is genuinely hard to find today so its a huge marker of qulity for me
I would so wish that you were my Fashion History lecturer❤ Loved and enjoyed every video, so well done, meticulously prepared and researched, articulate presentation, and all the vintage photos and news. I really think it’s almost perfect and absolutely professional. Thank you so so much!
I just want want to add that I adore your videos! Your videos, especially this one, are amazingly well done. They are well-researched and charmingly presented. You make the history, heritage, and timeline of the fashion house or label so riveting. Great to see the vintage pictures and ads; the way you highlight text is such a creative and effective presentation device, and I love your voice! You sound the way I imagine all fashion people sound! LOL!
Honestly the whole time Bailey was CD of Burberry was its golden era. I remember epic, very emotionally touching Fashion Shows or perfume ads. Burberry used to be my favorite back in the day. Let’s hope it will get its resurrection :)
I remember, waiting with baited breath for each collection, purposefully going to the store so I could be there on the first day when it dropped, everything, I was so excited from the CB Burberry every single season, bought almost nothing because I was a child, but loved it so much
I agree. Christopher Bailey was fully supported by Angela and Stacey (the dream team) and together they made Burberry Great (the golden era). And it was great.
I'll never forget being on the bus in London and seeing Burberry's AW 11' campaign with Jourdan Dunn and Sacha M'baye plastered over the Burberry shop in Knightsbridge. It was amazing! The Christopher Bailey era of Burberry will always be my favourite, it really was something special.
That CB era of Burberry was so electric and exciting, I don’t know of another brand that has that kind of magic in today’s fashion world. A few come close but none quite the same
It’s been so interesting to observe the ups and downs of Burberry over the years. I have a few pieces I’ve collected over the years but my impression was that they were really struggling in America and on a decidedly downhill trajectory. Then this past spring I went to S. Korea and it seems to be absolutely booming there. My pre-owned Burberry Brit puffer bought from TRR fit in perfectly. Know thy market!
From my experience in korea, yeah, everyone owns a burberry trench, some people buy vintage, a lot of people buy fake, but still a lot buy new from the store definitely. Asia really is a great market especially for british brands
I was literally looking at vogue runway app at DL’s collection when the notification flashed for this video. Yay!! Thank you for the great timing bc I’m a little perplexed by Lee’s presentation…I love the styling with the gigantic hats, hopefully faux fur, great statement to differentiate from past seasons. And the initial coats are so strong!! But it’s more relaxed than I expected, in silhouettes and fabrics. And Im confused by the diagonal checks, or maybe I just don’t like the use of dark secondary colours, green and purple. I had been expecting to be immediately thrilled, anything would be better than RT. But I’m going to have to look at it again!
Yeah I agree its not a crazy reinvention as I was expecting, but Im interested that hes brought it back to Bailey’s design codes, somewhat erasing Tisci, and I feel like he them might rebuild from that point to his own vision
@@understitchYT yes I thought about Christopher Bailey too with those impressive green coats, the rose prints, and the blue and white deconstructed duffle coat. It will be interesting to see how DL combines this stripping back to Bailey and going forward with his own vision. Personally my fave items were the hot water bottle covers, funny, but also really quite a timely system on UK’s cost of living crisis…maybe expensive but the price quickly recovered in energy savings with the heat turned down?🤞🏻
even the prints were very reminiscent of when Bailey did those (was it 2015?) t-shirts in very similar tones. There was very very evident call backs to CB - who was my favourite designer for many many years, so I hope I got all of the references - but also updated for a more today look. What Im hoping is that he uses this aas a platform to then reformat the CB burberry look for his own vision of the house moving forward. It really just got me so excited
The FW10 shearling coats and the following collections from Christopher Bailey was pure gold. I miss his designs so much and I hope to see him in other fashion projects in near future!
Your page is always a delight!!! 💙I do believe though that great brands/ designers have always bounced back to what made them famous, which of course "quality" designs and quality fabrics, and Burberry I'm sure will find its way back to its origin. I'm a huge fan of Burberry. They have some rocky moments, but nonetheless, its a brand that always thrive for quality luxury
I really loved Burberry during Christopher Bailey's tenure. It's one of those fashion shows that I was excited to see on fashion TV or on TH-cam. I was saddened by his departure from the brand. I specifically remember when Burberry changed its logo and I knew right there and then that it wasn't going to go well. It's like the brand lost all its prestige and glamor with just that one misstep. Tisci, while a good designer in his own right, was not a good fit for Burberry. I'm really hoping this change with Daniel Lee is a step in the right direction.
Yeah I agree, that CB era was really electric. I remember so eagerly awaiting new content from the brand back then, but all that magic was completely lost with RT, it was so hard to see
Excellent analysis as always, your research and commentary is astounding! I sincerely am very upset at companies just throwing away their entire identity in some short sighted bid to “be relevant” but in doing so becoming utterly generic, stale, and bland like every other company. At that rate, make a new line, don’t destroy what makes up the entire essence of what you represent and what has attracted your customers to you Thank goodness Burberry had this awakening and backpeddled. Hope they all learn before it’s too late
Just finished watching the show. A lot to be desired. Very few garments felt elevated, few aspirational pieces. It skewed very young, alienating a lot of other clients that were probably looking for more polished pieces.
Love your channel! Great content. Would love to hear your thoughts about Visvim. And also, the brand Magnolia Pearl. Wondering if they are in the rising, falling or the resurrection stage...?
I have to say Daniel's output at Burberry is aesthetically pleasing. I am a stockholder at Kering and LVMH to justify my spending on luxury goods. I have since retired from purchasing luxury items as I have too many.....but Daniel's recent designs at Burberry are tempting.
I remember Christopher Bailey's era and how popular Burberry was back in those days, those trenches with leather sleeves became a meme, cloned and copied everywhere.
I really hope it does, I hope it continues to go in this direction. I was surprised when they hired RT, but I’m unfortunately glad that they are returning to the Burberry from before
If it wasn’t from there, I definitely played a huge role in popularising logo mania, but I personally think it was the paparazzi influx of the 90s, I suppose they worked together though
I just found your account and I'm so excited to watch every one of your videos! I love fashion history and you explain it in a way that's easy, interesting, and just gives so much more context on the fashion world.
The early to mid 2000s looks are just awful. They couldn’t go toe to toe with other luxury brands of that time. The early 2010s and Bailey’s last collection were def an improvement. Daniel Lee’s collection is my personal favorite. Love the nod to British punk rock too. Can’t wait to see what Daniel does next.
Its so odd how Burberry have spent the majority of their time as a label with good product and not wholly well received design - the only exception being Bailey who never had an obviously bad collection
Fashion is creative in its every molecule. The idea that a 19th century home counties raincoat maker can turn into what it is today is remarkable, but a transformation that seems to happen often in fashion. I can't think of another industry where a brand can evolve from anything into a new idea.
Respect her a lot for her position, but I dont necessarily enjoy the brand positioning she championed with Burberry in the US as more of a mid-tier offering. So instead of giving my opinion on that, which isnt really fact at all, I just chose to not mention her ❤️🔥
i think Tisci-Burberry was a case of a house-designer mismatch Burberry just solidified it’s image as a heritage brand and Tisci turned that upside down when he injected his Givenchy touch into Burberry. Suddenly Burberry was churning out streetwear and a lot of modern/young aesthetic which was out of brand for Burberry and almost harkened back to the chav culture Burberry was desperately trying to distance itself from. Burberry lost it’s heritage when the EKD disappeared from the designs and replaced with that horrendous ‘TB’ monogram. Burberry also decided to go away with its recognisable font and chose to go with that Sans Serif font every fashion house was using. Daniel Lee seems to know what he’s doing by recognising Burberry’s heritage. Him choosing to resurrect the EKD by putting it front and centre on Burberry’s campaigns is a good first step. I’m excited for what’s to come.
I really agree about Tisci, I dont think he was the right match and its not really his fault, it just tells us that the businessmen who make that choice dont know their brand well enough, nor do they trust it enough to not follow trendy designers. Its a shame rly, burberry Xopher Bailey is still my favourite era of fashion
This video touches on two really fascinating topics (1) Asian tourists, and (2) Design houses relationships with the Asian Market. I wonder if you can elaborate on this relationship, maybe even a whole video. Where Asian buyers get their spending power, how they as consumers influence primarily European markets, how designers are incorporating Asian culture - Lunar New Year, Mid Autumn Festival - and spokes people.
The reliance on western brands on asian people is staggering considering until recently they were not catering much to that audience at all, instead relying on their european heritage as their main draw. The dichotomy of this is absolutely fascinating and has been (and should be further) studied by academics. Considering this reliance, I have a lot of opinions on their catering to asian holidays like Seollal (which I think is good) and their adoption of ill-fitting asian celebrities just because they bring in large profits (which I think is bad). Kpop stars, for this reason, in fashion is very tentative for me. Many houses seem to ‘use’ their ambassadors for influence instead of aligning themselves with better fitting asian celebrities. For this reason major stars in countries like India or Japan, or even Korea, that are a much much better fit for the company are overlooked because they have less of a pull over a western audience (a really good example of this is Dior who use BlackPink member JiSoo who doesnt really fit that well into the brands aesthetic, while bands like Twice imo would make a much better fit). Perhaps in the future I will make analytical videos like this topic as I do find them really interesting, but atm, they are touched upon where appropriate in the brand videos as Im trying to build a foundation of videos on which I can become known for 💕
@@understitchYT you mentioned Twice! Sana had modeled for Prada, and the Japanese trio recently graced the covers of Vogue Japan wearing Prada to promote the upcoming MiSaMo sub unit. Twice is quite popular in Japan, especially Tzuyu, who just scored an ambassadorship deal with Visee, a cosmetic brand under Kose umbrella that is only available in Japan. I would love to see Twice members to be global ambassadors of luxury brands, especially Tzuyu and Mina who I always think as elegant personified.
I live in Southeast Asia and wasn’t aware about the chav culture situation before. It’s a shame because the Burberry check is cute! Beige, black, and red go well with our black hair and clothes. Now it feels ruined for me😂
It still sells exceptionally well across Asia. Actually, that’s one area where I was still having quite good sales, especially with the bags. It wasn’t enough to keep RT on for much longer, but at least they weren’t having a terrible crisis
When we talk about Burberry I always feel sorry for Mackintosh. The ORIGINAL inventor of the rubberised cotton coats 🧥 I feel like they aren’t as well known, when I went to their store in London it’s so much smaller than Burberry’s palatial retail space, and that was Mackintosh’s only retail space in Europe. They do most of their trade in Japan though. The stores there are much better 🇯🇵 I hope you can do a video about Mackintosh sometime! 👏
I actually think theyre trying to stay that way, from their marketing plans it seems like theyre enjoying that market position of being a truly well made garment with a cult following, very steady sales etc while being completely able to stay out of the attention grabbing nature of the big brands. Theyre a quiet luxury and they know it, I find that really interesting
Interesting I had a couple of bits of Thomas Burberry never quite knew its relationship was to the main brand. Explains how they ended up in TK Maxx. I had a legit Burberry suit I picked up in a sale 20 years ago I wore through the seat of in the end I wore it so much. I think it was navy with a brown/red pinstripe.
I remember when the Burberry trench was the poor man's Aquascutum trench. This is long before it went viral/boo. The most recent scandal I paid any attention to involved the brand dumping countless thousands of unsold items into landfills to avoid becoming available on the secondary market. As if anyone cared by then.
Yes very true, Aquascutum had long been a very respected brand for their quality, but theyve really had a hard time remaining relevant so thats hurt their value a lot
The main problem with Burberry that has cussed lots of people including myself stop buying their products is price. Their stuff have skyrocketed in terms of pricing. Just few years ago I used to buy their shirts for less than 300$ now same shirt is 800$, their polo used to be around 200$ with sale I remember even buying them for 100$ each now they are 500$ and absolutely no sales whatsoever. They are definitely not in a place of Hermes or Dior and more importantly people are not stupid!
I personally love Tisci TB monogram, but I understand not everyone like it. For me, burberry will forever have a hard time to move on since everyone expect them to keep tradition. People hate change, change can be scary.
Unfortunately, for Burberry, they have less design codes for the house that they can hold onto; nearly all of them were built off of Christopher Bailey, and he came in quite late into the brands history. So whereas new designers at Dior, Balenciaga, Gucci have something to work with, there is very little in the Burberry archives for them to be inspired by and develop on, which makes designing for the house just a bit more hard
What a great change. Love the new logo. Brought back memories of Tomas Maier at BV. It was such an elevated time for menswear before the onslaught of street wear.
The ig livestream at the end 🤣🤣 but yeah I agree the new logo that Ricardo created and the B print was a bit meh but very of the times, like they leaned into that aesthetic seemingly over night which was a shocker
I skipped through this video to see if you'd mention chavs/charvs because as a Brit growing up in that era, I still don't know anyone my age (30s) or up who would wear Burberry. Going to watch properly now =]
His take is certainly an interesting choice for the brand. I wonder why they keep pushing this persoective when Bailey’s burberry positioning did so well before
I was excited to see Daniel Lee's changes, especially in handbags. The collection and handbags now have a coheseiveness and pair well together. The collection is elevated updated wearable streetwear that supports the looks of Lee's diminished "TB" logo and replaces it with just the right amount of fresh branding details and hardware. I am looking forward to his new tote interpretations as well as everyday luxury handbags.
I am very excited to see their bag offering. I know in Asia Tisci’s bags sold fairly well towards the end whereas CBs were mild to good sellers depending on the style. Burberry havent really had a manor hit bag yet, so Im really hoping for that from Lee (and I also hope they send me one ngl!)
The new collection by Daniel Lee? - I only remember the fur hat and the diagonal check. Still Exited to see what’s come next. Tisci new logo and print was extremely tacky. And I only see influencers with his designs. I still see Baileys designs on the streets here in Copenhagen. He’s era was legendary. Many thought that Burberry needed something new - that can be very healthy. But Burberry was my go-to-brand when thinking about luxury and looking at great cuts, beautiful colours and ‘casual chic’
It was mine too back with CB honestly. I adored the tones of colours and the prints he chose, I really got excited by them! But not the Tisci ones…never the Tisci ones 💀💀
I'm so glad Burberry got rid of Tisci. I've ignored the brand ever since he took over. The one thing that should be consistently present in any Burberry collection is its 'Britishness.' Tisci never got that. So, in my view, his tenure was an epic fail. In the States, Burberry's rep isn't as wide-ranging (nor as damaged) as it was abroad. Soccer wasn't big here when the chav culture reigned. And the Burberry 'check' is almost the only thing that Americans recognize. Again, that 'Britishness' is key to success here. Most Americans are insular and haven't traveled the globe. But I think that well-made clothes from THE British fashion house from a country with such sartorial heritage is a winner.
I agree that the reputation in America is significantly different to England, it’s actually quite surprising as in England, it’s considered to be very much a luxury label, whereas I’ve seen many American people in the media, even retail stores, calling at mid tier. I’m not really sure why this is, but I find it a fascinating difference between the two. I do hope he can help pull up that reputation a little bit for the states, because the quality of the clothing is some of the best in the industry. You’re right that RT never really understood the Britishness of Burberry, without that, it pulls down the perceived value, because they lose that as a differentiator. I’m really hoping now with Daniel Lee at the helm that he is able to successfully re-inject that to the brand and pull it back to where Christopher Bailey had it before.
@@understitchYT I'm no fashion expert like you, but I do have the benefit of being from Chicago, where Burberry has an impressive store on the Magnificent Mile. That, by itself, signifies (to anyone willing do their homework) that Burberry is no mid-tier brand. But, of course, most Americans associate Burberry with two things. 1. Boring beige trench coats and 2. The ubiquitous check slapped on a myriad of accessories. That's it. Where you praise Burberry marketing in the UK for bringing back the cachet of the brand there, in the States, their marketing needs improving. Even during the peak Bailey years, the brand wasn't covered much here. Or covered enough that it reached the streets. Maybe that will change with Mr. Lee.
I'm so excited to see where Daniel takes Burberry going forward. Ricardo Tisci's time made the brand quite tacky in my opinion. Daniel is the right person to bring a healthy dose of coolness to the brand.
@@understitchYT absolutely.. The way he modernized BV while keeping the heritage and the subtle luxury of the brand was quite amazing. I'm liking his direction with Burberry so far. Really want to see Burberry do well.
I really hope so. BV has gone down the genuine luxury route since his departure too, which I think was established with the DL BV, with their lifetime warantee on bags. Considering that the Burberry quality (esp on clothing) is some of the best on the market, its very likely they could go that route and honestly they stand one of the best chances (very far in the future) of being a legacy brand like Hermes if they could only get the marketing right and stop cheapening their own brand with licensing etc. So thats what I think DL will be able to bring, and thus why Im so excited by this
@@understitchYT You're right. I also hope that Daniel can bring about an IT bag or two for Burberry, as I think that's really what will put Burberry on the map again and on people's radars. I'm also hoping he does some cool and interesting things to the Burberry check, maybe reinvent it somehow. But we'll see where he takes it. :) Looking forward to more videos from you about it in the future too!
Their tartan pattern together with Louis Vuitton logo and color scheme are just one of those things that give me the creeps: they are supposed to signify style, but their image is just so laughably ugly and it's like one is erasing one's individuality in lieu of wearing this recognizable merchandise. So you are basically saying they are sinking? Good.
Excellent history lesson. This is a playbook for rebuilding Burberry but not over. The biggest problem is have burberry pattern check that stole the important role of a burberry logo. this is a legal problem. a logo can be trademark. why have their not try to trademark the burberry check? The second strategy is update burberry check then trademark. this will stop all the counterfeit seller from surfacing. last kill off the check but that did not work, because burberry is public shareholder company. Look like Burberry is going to be LVMH takeover target the way the fashion is going. Current collection is more street than classic tailored garment because Mr Lee do not have the ability to make normal tailored jacket or a trench coat. cheers
Thanks for the video! I personally loved this show and looking forward to see these pieces in the stores! There are already few pieces I want to buy 🥰 I am so glad Burberry is going back to the British! I didn’t buy anything from RT’s collection cuz I am not a fan!
I hated the rebrand by Tisci. Did like some of their advertising and some of his surrealism but Daniel Lee seems to be bringing that Britishness back. Also the use of British models and actors is back and I’m so happy to see that.
To me, it still doesn't feel like Burberry has resurrected. The elegance and heritage of the brand died when Christopher Bailey left. It's such a shame, as the house used to be one of my favourites. Thanks for the video though!
I dont think its fully there yet either tbh, but I really dont doubt its coming. I enjoyed the collection and I can see it as a great jumping off point
There was a large helping of Adrover early 00's archival references in this latest collection by Lee (especially in look 06 and 08), however, I'm none too mad about it as it's great reference point and it feels fresh currently. I also appreciated his take on the staples of English countryside /romanticism in a grunge way. It's very understated and it feels appropriate for this moment I would say. Although, I will say that although that while the floral dresses towards the end of the show were pretty they felt very much like a nod to Erdem and a little lazy (just saying). However, aside from that, again, I felt it was very lowkey. There were suprisingly no statement accessories whatsover so it will be interesting to see how that that component evolves in the seasons to come.
It defijitely was more low key than I expected too. I think the social media campaign coming into the show really hyped it up a lot and people expected more of a bang
Burberry have almost completely eradicated Roberto Menichettis legacy from the house. He put into place what Bailey would then build on. An incredible designer whose pieces are just as modern today as they were 20 years ago.
This video is very good and I’m a fan of all your content. I just have to speak up on your comments regarding “chavs” and “chav culture.” Chav was not a subculture, it was a classist term to demonise the working class of the UK. Burberry and its clientele weren’t put off because those wearing the check were “aggressive” or “antisocial”, it was because poor people were now wearing the same clothes as them and it disgusted them. There are lots of resources out there in regards to classism in 00’s Britain which I’d advise you look into if you want more information.
It was definitely a subculture of the working-class, not all working-class. I agree that was born of classism, but it definitely wasn’t everyone. It got the reputation for being ‘agressive’ and ‘antisocial’ for the football fights and brits abroad that were attributed ‘chav’ status, but they related more like a venn disgram than being the same group. There were were both plenty of chavs and brits that liked football that were perfectly lovely
@@understitchYT sorry you are incorrect. As a working class person who grew up during this era, I’m telling you what you are saying is incredibly offensive and ill informed. Wikipedia states it as a “term to describe an anti-social lower class youth”, meaning it wasn’t a term anyone would call themselves, it was an insult, so not a subculture. Oxford dictionary classes the word as “derogatory.” It was a classist caricature invented by the upper and middle classes to demonise an already vulnerable group of people. There is a lot of information out there on this, Owen Jones’ book “Chavs: The Demonization of the Working Class” is a good place to start. TH-camr Jordan Theresa also had some incredible videos on classism and this includes exploring the Chav stereotype. As a fan of yours, I’m extremely disappointed in your response.
I knew Daniel could give well made, well finished clothing but tbh I was worried it might be a bit of a safe, bland, yawnfest taking no risks. Thankfully this was full of character, a very British character, it had playful elements and odd elements too. A battiness, a kind of eccentric heritage that brits recognise. Very promising debut cos I see the Burberry guy/gal they're going for and it's a real person. This had a very modern louche refinement a relaxedness I loved about Bailey's Burberry but with a touch of the bombast of genz.
I also really enjoyed it, I know they had mixed reviews online, but I think that’s because their lead up to this collection was so hyped on social media that this now feels like a let down, if they wanted to do something like that, maybe they should’ve gone with something that would’ve caused more of a stir (could even be done with styling). I like the collection a lot (as you know), but the lead up seemed too dramatic for what we were delivered imo
@@understitchYT Hmmm interesting, not sure what people were expecting from Lee and also Burberry I don't see those 2 entities as being particularly in your face but always good to manage expectations. I think this was a great tone-setting, world-building kind of collection.
Why do so many designers have their runway models perform the jerky, aggressive "stomp-n-klomp" style of movement? The time is ripe for a designer to capitalize on this by having her/his models move gracefully as they traverse the runway. It would be a welcome change (or reversion).
Omg I know the answer!! So back in the 80s fashion catwalks were changing, Vivienne Westwood made them more performance-based, but they were still on that high platform that was so famous, beautiful women either acting softly or as a character. Then, very late 80s, early 90s Romeo Gigli changed it all by making his models do that scowling fashion face and removing the platform by having them walk on the same level as the guests/photographers. It seems totally normal today, but everything has a history 🥰
The collection was okay, I feel like Burberrys plan is to create “it” accessories. So, I feel like a bunch of influencers will be pushing these accessories in the coming months.
This could be wrong, but my theory is that this collection was to bring us back to Christopher Bailey’s collections, almost replacing RT’s Burberry so that we can once again move forward from that point, and just forget that Ricardo was ever part of the brand. I think that they will, from this point, evolve more into a Daniel Lee aesthetic, but I think this is a really nice starting point
The first collection is okay, it's alright. The styling is not that exciting. I imagined he will immediately release new bag with a bang but I missed lol. The footwear are so bad. But the new trenches are fun. The prints are nice (those ducks make me giggle). He will be okay at least.
What I’m expecting is that this is the start of his vision for the brand, often when a designer comes in they do like to inject their vision slowly over time. So what I’m thinking, what I’m interpreting from this, is that he is taking the brand back to Christopher Bailey’s vision, and he will then develop his own take on that from there, almost like an erasure of RT
Absolutely agree, I lost interest when Tisci was creative designer but I loved him for Givenchy, I didn’t understand the direction for Burberry and being that it’s a very traditional brand, I didn’t see any classic nods 🤷🏾♂️ the brand just needed a mix right down the middle of classic / modern and Daniel Lee did that straight away so I’m fan already!
I honestly think it would’ve been better received if they hadn’t hyped it up so much on social media beforehand, the amount of drama they added to it didn’t quite equate to the drama that we saw in the collection. If they had just delivered the collection, I think it would’ve been more warmly received
Yeah, it was very modest, for sure, but I also enjoyed the return to the aesthetic references that Bailey used too, so Im interested to see how it will evolve
Hi Understitch, the sad state of Burberry, partly their own making because they are a public trade share company. They had to go to the free money license deal and they got shafted. Burberry need a more strong modern logo
the problem of overexposure was their fault for licensing and not controlling the terms well, but its also their fault of what is happening now. Both cheapen a genuinely interesting brand and really they need to have a rethink about who the burberry brand is
I remember seeing a book everywhere called Chavs: The Demonization of the Working Class by Owen Jones which has a Burberry cap on the cover. No matter how they rebrand, I personally can’t get over the link with the chav culture in the U.K when I was growing up. Younger people don’t have that association and I envy that.
My grandmother - Elsa Marie Burberry (after whom I am named) had a great saying "If you feel inferior it's because you are). She was the wife of one of the last two directors of Burberry's, Arthur Ralph Burberry. With whom she had a son , Thomas Ralph Newman Burberry, who was a Mink Farmer...Chairman of The British Mink Society. A member of this family I have been dismayed at the downgrading of this Brand. It isn't , never was meant to be worn by 'Esturial England'. Too grand , too exclusive. The original tartan has been mucked about with. Burberry was never suited to The Catwalk nor to the Mass Market Place. Burberry looks good in a Bugatti Royale , in a Morgan 4/4 , but not in a Ford Fiesta.The Brand is unique.I don't have one !
This is such an interesting perspective, thank you. Do other members of your family hold the same view?
Thank you for your kind reply. One of the other Directors , Michael Ralph Burberry. Has a daughter , Elaine and I got in touch with her and it was she who told me that Burberry went into receivership and was lost to our family because the Government Office responsible for settling it's debts to it's Wartime Suppliers didn't settle. The upset to the family was massive , as you can imagine. I have a fantastic portrait of my father when a young Pilot Officer , wearing his uniform Ade by - Burberry's.Bests from me, Elsa-marie .@@understitchYT
It is a fabric and the fabric has been used to make coats that are dirt and water repellent. The rest is fantasy and money-making. I don't understand all the status nonsense. I wear mine on the subway on the way to the office. Should you be able to get upset about the quality? Absolutely. The rest is rubbish.
I think you'll find the saying was ' no one can make us feel inferior ,without our consent.' Eleanor Roosevelt.
"my grandmother didn't want inferior people to wear our clothing and I have to agree. Inferior people have no place buying clothing that I've decided they don't deserve." Also, invest in a better translator and autocorrect lol. "Esturial" isn't a word and half of this comment is borderline unreadable. I don't have one!!
In my opinion, the best era of Burberry was Christopher Bailey's era. Everything was done beautifully, elegant and classic pieces that were not terribly trendy, the era of the early 2010's was their golden age. I'm excited to see Daniel's Lee take on it and whether or not we'd get back to that Burberry.
I really agree. I think this may be a way to lead us onto Daniel Lees vision. He has taken us back to Bailey and now I hope he develops on those codes
Aggred but exited for Daniel L’s take thought cuz he is a former Botega designer and I used to love Botega before the designer change
Agreed when he said bring back heritage thought notes would be from Bailey era with lees twist...
I think it's tricky with Burberry because there simply is less to build off of in the heritage of the label. Almost everything we think of as signatre Burberry today is from Christopher Bailey who really expanded the vision, the pov of Burberry to what we know today. I think DL is taking it back to then, which in turn was CB's take on the burberry heritage. But, I also dont think it will continue this way endlessly. I think DL is restablishing CBs burberry, almost in an erasure of RT, then will develop his idea of Burberry from there, which is why Im so excited about it
i personally hated the christopher bailey era. but i also fucking hate ruffles. imo they were declining by 2010. peak was like 2005.
I remember my grocery store manager mom bringing me a copy of Australian vogue when I was 13/14 and there was this full page ad of newcomer Sam Riley in a Burberry coat, brooding in the cold out in the woods somewhere. I fell in love with this coat. I knew there was nothing quite like it because even back then my eyes - which would not be able to tell luxury from fast fashion- could recognise the quality, the tactile tweed fabric, the warmth, the clean lines through this BLACK and WHITE ad. I showed the picture to my 11 year old brother in awe, who fell in love with this coat just as much. It was decided, this was the first piece of designer item we would get when we become rich. To own burberry, was akin to being embraced by the English upper echelon. Oh to walk briskly across London town, on a gloomy afternoon in my grey Burberry coat. I carefully cut out the ad and to this day it sits prefectly glossy inside it's clear sleeve, waiting to be hung on a wall, or pasted onto a scrapbook or displayed at a gallery. But i keep it to myself. Offcourse I'm an adult now, I can let go of this piece of paper and go buy myself a coat. But my fulfilment of teenage dreams can't be bought with money. I'll never be able to buy what Bailey and Co tried to sell me all those years ago with their glossy pages, modeled by hot, young, not yet established, British, creatives like Roo Panes, Douglas Booth, Rosie Huntington, Emma Watson looking moody but snuggled in those thick heavy coats. That and the Australian weather would make me look like a fool. As for my brother, the keys to his BMW hang on a Burberry key chain.
Im going to need to see this image!! If you have insta please send it to me, this was such a lovely story 🙌 its so nice to hear such a heartwarming story of sibling affection
Nice fiction writing.
I didn't know Daniel Lee went to Burberry, this is all super interesting to see.
Personally, I have a positive opinion of Burberry's coats/jackets in particular. I went to a major outlet mall a few months back and was surprised at how low the quality of materials were in most of the luxury stores - I know it's on purpose, but it was still shocking to experience. And since I'm blind, quality of material is a really big proponent of buying expensive clothes. So I was particularly impressed with how nice their outerwear felt. Especially with Daniel Lee joining the brand I'll be pining for a jacket
They havent changed their garbardine for many years I believe and all the jackets Ive had from them have all been extremely top notch. I even had a coat from Bailey’s Burberry back in the day (bought second hand) and it is still completely perfect to this day. I really agree with the fabric quality notes you made. Good quality fabric is genuinely hard to find today so its a huge marker of qulity for me
How do you follow fashion and not know Lee was going to burberry??
@jonnyfendi2003 I know I know, I saw he was leaving Bottega Veneta and didn't look into where he was moving
I was not aware Burberry invented Gabardine - thanks for educating me, I love learning about textile
Textiles are some of my favourite aspects to design
I would so wish that you were my Fashion History lecturer❤ Loved and enjoyed every video, so well done, meticulously prepared and researched, articulate presentation, and all the vintage photos and news. I really think it’s almost perfect and absolutely professional. Thank you so so much!
Thank you so much! Im so glad you found such value in my content 🙌
Wow that’s exciting! Going to bed now but this is the first thing I’m watching tomorrow morning enjoying a cup of coffee
Sleep well 🤌
I just want want to add that I adore your videos! Your videos, especially this one, are amazingly well done. They are well-researched and charmingly presented. You make the history, heritage, and timeline of the fashion house or label so riveting. Great to see the vintage pictures and ads; the way you highlight text is such a creative and effective presentation device, and I love your voice! You sound the way I imagine all fashion people sound! LOL!
What a lovely thing to read, thank you so much, my vocal fry and I are very touched 😂
Honestly the whole time Bailey was CD of Burberry was its golden era. I remember epic, very emotionally touching Fashion Shows or perfume ads. Burberry used to be my favorite back in the day.
Let’s hope it will get its resurrection :)
I remember, waiting with baited breath for each collection, purposefully going to the store so I could be there on the first day when it dropped, everything, I was so excited from the CB Burberry every single season, bought almost nothing because I was a child, but loved it so much
@@understitchYT same!
I agree. Christopher Bailey was fully supported by Angela and Stacey (the dream team) and together they made Burberry Great (the golden era). And it was great.
I'll never forget being on the bus in London and seeing Burberry's AW 11' campaign with Jourdan Dunn and Sacha M'baye plastered over the Burberry shop in Knightsbridge. It was amazing! The Christopher Bailey era of Burberry will always be my favourite, it really was something special.
That CB era of Burberry was so electric and exciting, I don’t know of another brand that has that kind of magic in today’s fashion world. A few come close but none quite the same
It’s been so interesting to observe the ups and downs of Burberry over the years. I have a few pieces I’ve collected over the years but my impression was that they were really struggling in America and on a decidedly downhill trajectory. Then this past spring I went to S. Korea and it seems to be absolutely booming there. My pre-owned Burberry Brit puffer bought from TRR fit in perfectly. Know thy market!
From my experience in korea, yeah, everyone owns a burberry trench, some people buy vintage, a lot of people buy fake, but still a lot buy new from the store definitely. Asia really is a great market especially for british brands
In Korea they call raincoat flashers ' burberry men'
@@michaelkennedy3372😂😂😂
I really liked Christopher Bailey's Burberry of the early 2010s. Seeing those Emma Watson campaigns were chef's kiss for me in my 20s.
Omg tell me about it, and the famously successful beckham child 😂
I was literally looking at vogue runway app at DL’s collection when the notification flashed for this video. Yay!! Thank you for the great timing bc I’m a little perplexed by Lee’s presentation…I love the styling with the gigantic hats, hopefully faux fur, great statement to differentiate from past seasons. And the initial coats are so strong!! But it’s more relaxed than I expected, in silhouettes and fabrics. And Im confused by the diagonal checks, or maybe I just don’t like the use of dark secondary colours, green and purple. I had been expecting to be immediately thrilled, anything would be better than RT. But I’m going to have to look at it again!
Yeah I agree its not a crazy reinvention as I was expecting, but Im interested that hes brought it back to Bailey’s design codes, somewhat erasing Tisci, and I feel like he them might rebuild from that point to his own vision
@@understitchYT yes I thought about Christopher Bailey too with those impressive green coats, the rose prints, and the blue and white deconstructed duffle coat. It will be interesting to see how DL combines this stripping back to Bailey and going forward with his own vision.
Personally my fave items were the hot water bottle covers, funny, but also really quite a timely system on UK’s cost of living crisis…maybe expensive but the price quickly recovered in energy savings with the heat turned down?🤞🏻
even the prints were very reminiscent of when Bailey did those (was it 2015?) t-shirts in very similar tones. There was very very evident call backs to CB - who was my favourite designer for many many years, so I hope I got all of the references - but also updated for a more today look. What Im hoping is that he uses this aas a platform to then reformat the CB burberry look for his own vision of the house moving forward. It really just got me so excited
@@understitchYT I’ll look forward to your video about it!!❤️
The FW10 shearling coats and the following collections from Christopher Bailey was pure gold. I miss his designs so much and I hope to see him in other fashion projects in near future!
I tried it on in the burberry shop, it was absolutely incredible
Personally loved the new direction. It felt quite fresh and youthful and I would love to wear a few of their coats!
I also really enjoyed it, I know that it was controversial, but I thought it was better than the previous few collections for sure
Your page is always a delight!!! 💙I do believe though that great brands/ designers have always bounced back to what made them famous, which of course "quality" designs and quality fabrics, and Burberry I'm sure will find its way back to its origin. I'm a huge fan of Burberry. They have some rocky moments, but nonetheless, its a brand that always thrive for quality luxury
Im glad you enjoyed it tysm 🤍 Im also a huge burberry fan, I hope they bounce back but I am worried about them going the rumoured mid-price route
This most recent Burberry show made me sit up straight in my seat. Talk about a breath of fresh air. Can’t wait to see more from Lee.
I agree, its certainly a new and distinct chapter for Burberry; one i hope brings them back a bit more into the zeitgeist
LOVE this video. Please do one on The Row!
Oh I'd love to
I really loved Burberry during Christopher Bailey's tenure. It's one of those fashion shows that I was excited to see on fashion TV or on TH-cam. I was saddened by his departure from the brand. I specifically remember when Burberry changed its logo and I knew right there and then that it wasn't going to go well. It's like the brand lost all its prestige and glamor with just that one misstep. Tisci, while a good designer in his own right, was not a good fit for Burberry. I'm really hoping this change with Daniel Lee is a step in the right direction.
Yeah I agree, that CB era was really electric. I remember so eagerly awaiting new content from the brand back then, but all that magic was completely lost with RT, it was so hard to see
Can you do a video about Mark Jacobs!
Oh absolutely he is on the cards for me 🙌🙌
Excellent analysis as always, your research and commentary is astounding!
I sincerely am very upset at companies just throwing away their entire identity in some short sighted bid to “be relevant” but in doing so becoming utterly generic, stale, and bland like every other company.
At that rate, make a new line, don’t destroy what makes up the entire essence of what you represent and what has attracted your customers to you
Thank goodness Burberry had this awakening and backpeddled.
Hope they all learn before it’s too late
Yes exactly, very well said
Just finished watching the show. A lot to be desired. Very few garments felt elevated, few aspirational pieces. It skewed very young, alienating a lot of other clients that were probably looking for more polished pieces.
I think this may be a way to transition us back to something new imo, like bring us back to Bailey and then develop that onto Lee’s vision
Love your channel! Great content. Would love to hear your thoughts about Visvim. And also, the brand Magnolia Pearl. Wondering if they are in the rising, falling or the resurrection stage...?
I, and I say this with all the emphasis I can muster, LOVE VISVIM so so much, I just adore their fabric combinations so much
I heard there's an obscure brand called Polo that's picking up steam.
I have to say Daniel's output at Burberry is aesthetically pleasing. I am a stockholder at Kering and LVMH to justify my spending on luxury goods. I have since retired from purchasing luxury items as I have too many.....but Daniel's recent designs at Burberry are tempting.
Thats a great excuse i may have to follow 🙌
Your stocks aged nice
I remember Christopher Bailey's era and how popular Burberry was back in those days, those trenches with leather sleeves became a meme, cloned and copied everywhere.
The leather coats, the embellished trenches, the bags, the list of other aamzing things
Very exciting to see how Daniel Lee transforms the brand
I cant wait to see more
Yeah! Let's just see what racist faux pas he pulls off at this brand. Seems to be his signature move.
An interesting and well-researched yet succinct video on Burberry - a good listen.
Thank you so much! Glad you enjoyed it!
I agree with you. The runway show starting at around 19:05 is a great direction. I think if it all comes together can do well over here in the USA.
I really hope it does, I hope it continues to go in this direction. I was surprised when they hired RT, but I’m unfortunately glad that they are returning to the Burberry from before
Yes! I personally think that logomania boom can be credited to 2004 YA American movies (Burberry print, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Dior monogram)
If it wasn’t from there, I definitely played a huge role in popularising logo mania, but I personally think it was the paparazzi influx of the 90s, I suppose they worked together though
I just found your account and I'm so excited to watch every one of your videos! I love fashion history and you explain it in a way that's easy, interesting, and just gives so much more context on the fashion world.
Im so glad you found me then!! I hope you had a nice binge
i’ve just bought. burberry bradford’s reversible trench style coat from W23…is it a good coat or should i sell it before wearing
Lol I could care less about fashion brand talk but you somehow made these videos so interesting I binged nearly all of them in one night.
Good stuff!💕
oh really? thank you so much! Thats such a good compliment to hear, Im glad you enjoyed them that much
The early to mid 2000s looks are just awful. They couldn’t go toe to toe with other luxury brands of that time. The early 2010s and Bailey’s last collection were def an improvement. Daniel Lee’s collection is my personal favorite. Love the nod to British punk rock too. Can’t wait to see what Daniel does next.
Its so odd how Burberry have spent the majority of their time as a label with good product and not wholly well received design - the only exception being Bailey who never had an obviously bad collection
Excellent review! I just got a couple of Burberry dress shirts and love them.
They really do make great basics
Fashion is creative in its every molecule. The idea that a 19th century home counties raincoat maker can turn into what it is today is remarkable, but a transformation that seems to happen often in fashion. I can't think of another industry where a brand can evolve from anything into a new idea.
Fashion is certainly an art in that way, turning nothing into something desirable
The leadership of Angela, Stacy and Christopher at Burberry was amazing and indeed truly the golden era of Burberry in terms of design and innovation.
I agree 100%
Can you provide a link to the research paper in 05:15
No mention of Angela Ahrendts?!?
Respect her a lot for her position, but I dont necessarily enjoy the brand positioning she championed with Burberry in the US as more of a mid-tier offering. So instead of giving my opinion on that, which isnt really fact at all, I just chose to not mention her ❤️🔥
i think Tisci-Burberry was a case of a house-designer mismatch
Burberry just solidified it’s image as a heritage brand and Tisci turned that upside down when he injected his Givenchy touch into Burberry. Suddenly Burberry was churning out streetwear and a lot of modern/young aesthetic which was out of brand for Burberry and almost harkened back to the chav culture Burberry was desperately trying to distance itself from. Burberry lost it’s heritage when the EKD disappeared from the designs and replaced with that horrendous ‘TB’ monogram. Burberry also decided to go away with its recognisable font and chose to go with that Sans Serif font every fashion house was using.
Daniel Lee seems to know what he’s doing by recognising Burberry’s heritage. Him choosing to resurrect the EKD by putting it front and centre on Burberry’s campaigns is a good first step. I’m excited for what’s to come.
I really agree about Tisci, I dont think he was the right match and its not really his fault, it just tells us that the businessmen who make that choice dont know their brand well enough, nor do they trust it enough to not follow trendy designers. Its a shame rly, burberry Xopher Bailey is still my favourite era of fashion
A very well-researched documentary. Thank you . . .
Thank you 🥰
This video touches on two really fascinating topics (1) Asian tourists, and (2) Design houses relationships with the Asian Market. I wonder if you can elaborate on this relationship, maybe even a whole video. Where Asian buyers get their spending power, how they as consumers influence primarily European markets, how designers are incorporating Asian culture - Lunar New Year, Mid Autumn Festival - and spokes people.
The reliance on western brands on asian people is staggering considering until recently they were not catering much to that audience at all, instead relying on their european heritage as their main draw. The dichotomy of this is absolutely fascinating and has been (and should be further) studied by academics. Considering this reliance, I have a lot of opinions on their catering to asian holidays like Seollal (which I think is good) and their adoption of ill-fitting asian celebrities just because they bring in large profits (which I think is bad). Kpop stars, for this reason, in fashion is very tentative for me. Many houses seem to ‘use’ their ambassadors for influence instead of aligning themselves with better fitting asian celebrities. For this reason major stars in countries like India or Japan, or even Korea, that are a much much better fit for the company are overlooked because they have less of a pull over a western audience (a really good example of this is Dior who use BlackPink member JiSoo who doesnt really fit that well into the brands aesthetic, while bands like Twice imo would make a much better fit). Perhaps in the future I will make analytical videos like this topic as I do find them really interesting, but atm, they are touched upon where appropriate in the brand videos as Im trying to build a foundation of videos on which I can become known for 💕
@@understitchYT you mentioned Twice! Sana had modeled for Prada, and the Japanese trio recently graced the covers of Vogue Japan wearing Prada to promote the upcoming MiSaMo sub unit. Twice is quite popular in Japan, especially Tzuyu, who just scored an ambassadorship deal with Visee, a cosmetic brand under Kose umbrella that is only available in Japan. I would love to see Twice members to be global ambassadors of luxury brands, especially Tzuyu and Mina who I always think as elegant personified.
I live in Southeast Asia and wasn’t aware about the chav culture situation before. It’s a shame because the Burberry check is cute! Beige, black, and red go well with our black hair and clothes. Now it feels ruined for me😂
It still sells exceptionally well across Asia. Actually, that’s one area where I was still having quite good sales, especially with the bags. It wasn’t enough to keep RT on for much longer, but at least they weren’t having a terrible crisis
When we talk about Burberry I always feel sorry for Mackintosh. The ORIGINAL inventor of the rubberised cotton coats 🧥 I feel like they aren’t as well known, when I went to their store in London it’s so much smaller than Burberry’s palatial retail space, and that was Mackintosh’s only retail space in Europe. They do most of their trade in Japan though. The stores there are much better 🇯🇵 I hope you can do a video about Mackintosh sometime! 👏
I actually think theyre trying to stay that way, from their marketing plans it seems like theyre enjoying that market position of being a truly well made garment with a cult following, very steady sales etc while being completely able to stay out of the attention grabbing nature of the big brands. Theyre a quiet luxury and they know it, I find that really interesting
Are you planning to do a video on Armani? :D
Maybe one day, no immediate plans
yea something interesting has been going on there lately!!!
love ur channel! Great videos
Thanks so much!
the collection was really bad 😭
Its been very divisive for syre
I saw, I click, I watch, I love.
I thank
Interesting I had a couple of bits of Thomas Burberry never quite knew its relationship was to the main brand. Explains how they ended up in TK Maxx. I had a legit Burberry suit I picked up in a sale 20 years ago I wore through the seat of in the end I wore it so much. I think it was navy with a brown/red pinstripe.
This is an exciting new chapter for Burberry. DL presented lots of bold, graphic and unique pieces that are going to photograph beautifully!
And so commercial too, I could very much see anybody wearing these designs
It was sooo disappointing bad.
I remember when the Burberry trench was the poor man's Aquascutum trench. This is long before it went viral/boo. The most recent scandal I paid any attention to involved the brand dumping countless thousands of unsold items into landfills to avoid becoming available on the secondary market. As if anyone cared by then.
Yes very true, Aquascutum had long been a very respected brand for their quality, but theyve really had a hard time remaining relevant so thats hurt their value a lot
The main problem with Burberry that has cussed lots of people including myself stop buying their products is price. Their stuff have skyrocketed in terms of pricing. Just few years ago I used to buy their shirts for less than 300$ now same shirt is 800$, their polo used to be around 200$ with sale I remember even buying them for 100$ each now they are 500$ and absolutely no sales whatsoever. They are definitely not in a place of Hermes or Dior and more importantly people are not stupid!
Theyre trying very hard to retain their lux positioning, but with the product they have and the legacy they have its not going to be easy
It’s FASHIONDAY and You’re watching UNDERSTITCH✨
🙌🙌🙌
Another excellent video!
I enjoy them sooo much!
I’m so glad to hear that, thank you so much
I doubt if that What I just saw will shake any tables here 🤔
But the burberryfiles will know exactly whats going on, its definitely heavy referencing Baileys Burberry
I heard a rumor that Armani has its clothes made in North Korea is that true?
What is the history of the Belstaff brand?
Oh thats a super interesting question
I personally love Tisci TB monogram, but I understand not everyone like it. For me, burberry will forever have a hard time to move on since everyone expect them to keep tradition. People hate change, change can be scary.
Unfortunately, for Burberry, they have less design codes for the house that they can hold onto; nearly all of them were built off of Christopher Bailey, and he came in quite late into the brands history. So whereas new designers at Dior, Balenciaga, Gucci have something to work with, there is very little in the Burberry archives for them to be inspired by and develop on, which makes designing for the house just a bit more hard
What a great change. Love the new logo. Brought back memories of Tomas Maier at BV. It was such an elevated time for menswear before the onslaught of street wear.
I agree, much much better logo, that awful one before was just the worst
I adored Tomas Maier’s vision for BV, too. Super luxe, and no cartoon character gimmickry😍
Waiiit waittt at 11:14, is that Freddie Windsor? Omgg, 90s Burberry really said: Poshhh!
HahahahHa that they did
The ig livestream at the end 🤣🤣 but yeah I agree the new logo that Ricardo created and the B print was a bit meh but very of the times, like they leaned into that aesthetic seemingly over night which was a shocker
Its because I wanted it to be out immediately as they had their show, otherwise Id have to wait weeks for them to upload it
I love the new line!
I really enjoy it too 🤌
I skipped through this video to see if you'd mention chavs/charvs because as a Brit growing up in that era, I still don't know anyone my age (30s) or up who would wear Burberry. Going to watch properly now =]
Of course I had to 😂 it changed the course of Burberrys future hugely!
Finally one on burberry!! Armani and Tom Ford next?
I would love to! I think both are about to see a return to being really hot brands again
This new line of Burberry is fabulous and fun. The pop of color raises the level of fashion to a modern look.
His take is certainly an interesting choice for the brand. I wonder why they keep pushing this persoective when Bailey’s burberry positioning did so well before
I was excited to see Daniel Lee's changes, especially in handbags. The collection and handbags now have a coheseiveness and pair well together. The collection is elevated updated wearable streetwear that supports the looks of Lee's diminished "TB" logo and replaces it with just the right amount of fresh branding details and hardware. I am looking forward to his new tote interpretations as well as everyday luxury handbags.
I am very excited to see their bag offering. I know in Asia Tisci’s bags sold fairly well towards the end whereas CBs were mild to good sellers depending on the style. Burberry havent really had a manor hit bag yet, so Im really hoping for that from Lee (and I also hope they send me one ngl!)
Your videos are just so extremely well researched, well paced and eloquent. I’m in awe!!
Thank you so much, I’m so glad you enjoyed
Do you know why Bailey left the company? Was he fired or he just moved on to something else?
I actually dont, but it is curious that it happened after a slower year for the company
So...am I the only person that kinda likes the Burberry monogram print??? 😭
I think you might be, but lucky for you less people will have it to make yours more exclusive 💪
The new collection by Daniel Lee? - I only remember the fur hat and the diagonal check. Still Exited to see what’s come next.
Tisci new logo and print was extremely tacky. And I only see influencers with his designs.
I still see Baileys designs on the streets here in Copenhagen. He’s era was legendary. Many thought that Burberry needed something new - that can be very healthy. But Burberry was my go-to-brand when thinking about luxury and looking at great cuts, beautiful colours and ‘casual chic’
It was mine too back with CB honestly. I adored the tones of colours and the prints he chose, I really got excited by them! But not the Tisci ones…never the Tisci ones 💀💀
Great video
Thank you so mcuh 💪
I'm so glad Burberry got rid of Tisci. I've ignored the brand ever since he took over. The one thing that should be consistently present in any Burberry collection is its 'Britishness.' Tisci never got that. So, in my view, his tenure was an epic fail.
In the States, Burberry's rep isn't as wide-ranging (nor as damaged) as it was abroad. Soccer wasn't big here when the chav culture reigned. And the Burberry 'check' is almost the only thing that Americans recognize. Again, that 'Britishness' is key to success here. Most Americans are insular and haven't traveled the globe. But I think that well-made clothes from THE British fashion house from a country with such sartorial heritage is a winner.
I agree that the reputation in America is significantly different to England, it’s actually quite surprising as in England, it’s considered to be very much a luxury label, whereas I’ve seen many American people in the media, even retail stores, calling at mid tier. I’m not really sure why this is, but I find it a fascinating difference between the two. I do hope he can help pull up that reputation a little bit for the states, because the quality of the clothing is some of the best in the industry.
You’re right that RT never really understood the Britishness of Burberry, without that, it pulls down the perceived value, because they lose that as a differentiator. I’m really hoping now with Daniel Lee at the helm that he is able to successfully re-inject that to the brand and pull it back to where Christopher Bailey had it before.
@@understitchYT I'm no fashion expert like you, but I do have the benefit of being from Chicago, where Burberry has an impressive store on the Magnificent Mile. That, by itself, signifies (to anyone willing do their homework) that Burberry is no mid-tier brand. But, of course, most Americans associate Burberry with two things. 1. Boring beige trench coats and 2. The ubiquitous check slapped on a myriad of accessories. That's it. Where you praise Burberry marketing in the UK for bringing back the cachet of the brand there, in the States, their marketing needs improving. Even during the peak Bailey years, the brand wasn't covered much here. Or covered enough that it reached the streets. Maybe that will change with Mr. Lee.
I worked at Burberry in London during Tisci’s time, it was very disappointing and none of the staff were fans of the designs.
Was anyone a fan? 😬
❤ very excited to see what’s new at Burberry❤
Totally, 100%, completely same
I'm so excited to see where Daniel takes Burberry going forward. Ricardo Tisci's time made the brand quite tacky in my opinion. Daniel is the right person to bring a healthy dose of coolness to the brand.
I agree, he managed to do it so well with Bottega Veneta, that think it’s possible he could help revive Burberry
@@understitchYT absolutely.. The way he modernized BV while keeping the heritage and the subtle luxury of the brand was quite amazing. I'm liking his direction with Burberry so far. Really want to see Burberry do well.
I really hope so. BV has gone down the genuine luxury route since his departure too, which I think was established with the DL BV, with their lifetime warantee on bags. Considering that the Burberry quality (esp on clothing) is some of the best on the market, its very likely they could go that route and honestly they stand one of the best chances (very far in the future) of being a legacy brand like Hermes if they could only get the marketing right and stop cheapening their own brand with licensing etc. So thats what I think DL will be able to bring, and thus why Im so excited by this
@@understitchYT You're right. I also hope that Daniel can bring about an IT bag or two for Burberry, as I think that's really what will put Burberry on the map again and on people's radars. I'm also hoping he does some cool and interesting things to the Burberry check, maybe reinvent it somehow. But we'll see where he takes it. :)
Looking forward to more videos from you about it in the future too!
Their tartan pattern together with Louis Vuitton logo and color scheme are just one of those things that give me the creeps: they are supposed to signify style, but their image is just so laughably ugly and it's like one is erasing one's individuality in lieu of wearing this recognizable merchandise. So you are basically saying they are sinking? Good.
Theyre both targetted at the mass market thats for true
Excellent history lesson. This is a playbook for rebuilding Burberry but not over. The biggest problem is have burberry pattern check that stole the important role of a burberry logo. this is a legal problem. a logo can be trademark. why have their not try to trademark the burberry check? The second strategy is update burberry check then trademark. this will stop all the counterfeit seller from surfacing.
last kill off the check but that did not work, because burberry is public shareholder company. Look like Burberry is going to be LVMH takeover target the way the fashion is going.
Current collection is more street than classic tailored garment because Mr Lee do not have the ability to make normal tailored jacket or a trench coat. cheers
Actually Im pretty sure the check is trademarked otherwise they couldnt have licensed it out, the problem is its so popular that they cant stop it 🤷
Thanks for the video! I personally loved this show and looking forward to see these pieces in the stores! There are already few pieces I want to buy 🥰 I am so glad Burberry is going back to the British! I didn’t buy anything from RT’s collection cuz I am not a fan!
Yeah I think the RT years are going to try to be forgotten by the brand 😬😬😬
I hated the rebrand by Tisci. Did like some of their advertising and some of his surrealism but Daniel Lee seems to be bringing that Britishness back. Also the use of British models and actors is back and I’m so happy to see that.
Yeah Tisci was a rough time for burberry, a very odd choice
Nigo next!!!
To me, it still doesn't feel like Burberry has resurrected. The elegance and heritage of the brand died when Christopher Bailey left. It's such a shame, as the house used to be one of my favourites. Thanks for the video though!
I dont think its fully there yet either tbh, but I really dont doubt its coming. I enjoyed the collection and I can see it as a great jumping off point
There was a large helping of Adrover early 00's archival references in this latest collection by Lee (especially in look 06 and 08), however, I'm none too mad about it as it's great reference point and it feels fresh currently. I also appreciated his take on the staples of English countryside /romanticism in a grunge way. It's very understated and it feels appropriate for this moment I would say. Although, I will say that although that while the floral dresses towards the end of the show were pretty they felt very much like a nod to Erdem and a little lazy (just saying). However, aside from that, again, I felt it was very lowkey. There were suprisingly no statement accessories whatsover so it will be interesting to see how that that component evolves in the seasons to come.
also to tack this on I felt there was a also a few nods to Acne Studios and a quite subtly few notes Demna's Balenciaga.
It defijitely was more low key than I expected too. I think the social media campaign coming into the show really hyped it up a lot and people expected more of a bang
ricardo tisci was a mistake
It’s such a shame he’ll be remembered more for this than for his other actually good design work
Burberry have almost completely eradicated Roberto Menichettis legacy from the house.
He put into place what Bailey would then build on. An incredible designer whose pieces are just as modern today as they were 20 years ago.
Its so hard to find information on him actually, I dont honestly remember if I even included him in this video, which I really should have
This video is very good and I’m a fan of all your content. I just have to speak up on your comments regarding “chavs” and “chav culture.” Chav was not a subculture, it was a classist term to demonise the working class of the UK. Burberry and its clientele weren’t put off because those wearing the check were “aggressive” or “antisocial”, it was because poor people were now wearing the same clothes as them and it disgusted them. There are lots of resources out there in regards to classism in 00’s Britain which I’d advise you look into if you want more information.
It was definitely a subculture of the working-class, not all working-class. I agree that was born of classism, but it definitely wasn’t everyone. It got the reputation for being ‘agressive’ and ‘antisocial’ for the football fights and brits abroad that were attributed ‘chav’ status, but they related more like a venn disgram than being the same group. There were were both plenty of chavs and brits that liked football that were perfectly lovely
@@understitchYT sorry you are incorrect. As a working class person who grew up during this era, I’m telling you what you are saying is incredibly offensive and ill informed. Wikipedia states it as a “term to describe an anti-social lower class youth”, meaning it wasn’t a term anyone would call themselves, it was an insult, so not a subculture. Oxford dictionary classes the word as “derogatory.” It was a classist caricature invented by the upper and middle classes to demonise an already vulnerable group of people. There is a lot of information out there on this, Owen Jones’ book “Chavs: The Demonization of the Working Class” is a good place to start. TH-camr Jordan Theresa also had some incredible videos on classism and this includes exploring the Chav stereotype. As a fan of yours, I’m extremely disappointed in your response.
Hunting" is a sport? 3:49
Historically, yes
I knew Daniel could give well made, well finished clothing but tbh I was worried it might be a bit of a safe, bland, yawnfest taking no risks. Thankfully this was full of character, a very British character, it had playful elements and odd elements too. A battiness, a kind of eccentric heritage that brits recognise. Very promising debut cos I see the Burberry guy/gal they're going for and it's a real person. This had a very modern louche refinement a relaxedness I loved about Bailey's Burberry but with a touch of the bombast of genz.
I also really enjoyed it, I know they had mixed reviews online, but I think that’s because their lead up to this collection was so hyped on social media that this now feels like a let down, if they wanted to do something like that, maybe they should’ve gone with something that would’ve caused more of a stir (could even be done with styling). I like the collection a lot (as you know), but the lead up seemed too dramatic for what we were delivered imo
@@understitchYT Hmmm interesting, not sure what people were expecting from Lee and also Burberry I don't see those 2 entities as being particularly in your face but always good to manage expectations. I think this was a great tone-setting, world-building kind of collection.
Why do so many designers have their runway models perform the jerky, aggressive "stomp-n-klomp" style of movement? The time is ripe for a designer to capitalize on this by having her/his models move gracefully as they traverse the runway. It would be a welcome change (or reversion).
Omg I know the answer!! So back in the 80s fashion catwalks were changing, Vivienne Westwood made them more performance-based, but they were still on that high platform that was so famous, beautiful women either acting softly or as a character. Then, very late 80s, early 90s Romeo Gigli changed it all by making his models do that scowling fashion face and removing the platform by having them walk on the same level as the guests/photographers. It seems totally normal today, but everything has a history 🥰
The collection was underwhelming. It’s not hard to get a trench coat wrong but he managed to.
Ive heard a few people say they were underwhelmed, but I enjoyed it because of the heavy referencing to Bailey
The collection was okay, I feel like Burberrys plan is to create “it” accessories. So, I feel like a bunch of influencers will be pushing these accessories in the coming months.
This could be wrong, but my theory is that this collection was to bring us back to Christopher Bailey’s collections, almost replacing RT’s Burberry so that we can once again move forward from that point, and just forget that Ricardo was ever part of the brand. I think that they will, from this point, evolve more into a Daniel Lee aesthetic, but I think this is a really nice starting point
i love your channel
Thank you so mcuh! 💕💕
Burberry in 11-14 was definitely it's rock star era
We all miss Bailey
The first collection is okay, it's alright. The styling is not that exciting. I imagined he will immediately release new bag with a bang but I missed lol. The footwear are so bad. But the new trenches are fun. The prints are nice (those ducks make me giggle). He will be okay at least.
What I’m expecting is that this is the start of his vision for the brand, often when a designer comes in they do like to inject their vision slowly over time. So what I’m thinking, what I’m interpreting from this, is that he is taking the brand back to Christopher Bailey’s vision, and he will then develop his own take on that from there, almost like an erasure of RT
Absolutely agree, I lost interest when Tisci was creative designer but I loved him for Givenchy, I didn’t understand the direction for Burberry and being that it’s a very traditional brand, I didn’t see any classic nods 🤷🏾♂️ the brand just needed a mix right down the middle of classic / modern and Daniel Lee did that straight away so I’m fan already!
Yeah I really agree with you so much, he was a much better fit at Givenchy and I never understood him for Burberry tbh
Growing up i had one of those Burberry trench coats :)
You have good taste
daniels collection was just okay imo, im sure it will sell okay with the younger clientele they are reaching for who will be able to afford it
I honestly think it would’ve been better received if they hadn’t hyped it up so much on social media beforehand, the amount of drama they added to it didn’t quite equate to the drama that we saw in the collection. If they had just delivered the collection, I think it would’ve been more warmly received
Give us this day our daily rain 🤦🏻♂️
And forgive us for wearing Tresspass when skiing 💀💀💀
I used to love society perfume by Burberry -80s- 90s! Those where the best times
burberry perfume was my go to back in the day too
Daniel Lee started modestly, but I enjoyed the approach so far. Excited to see what comes next.
Yeah, it was very modest, for sure, but I also enjoyed the return to the aesthetic references that Bailey used too, so Im interested to see how it will evolve
Hi Understitch, the sad state of Burberry, partly their own making because they are a public trade share company. They had to go to the free money license deal and they got shafted. Burberry need a more strong modern logo
the problem of overexposure was their fault for licensing and not controlling the terms well, but its also their fault of what is happening now. Both cheapen a genuinely interesting brand and really they need to have a rethink about who the burberry brand is
I remember seeing a book everywhere called Chavs: The Demonization of the Working Class by Owen Jones which has a Burberry cap on the cover. No matter how they rebrand, I personally can’t get over the link with the chav culture in the U.K when I was growing up. Younger people don’t have that association and I envy that.
Britain esp in the 90s was an extremely classist place for sure, its a wonder how we didnt really realise what we were doing at the time too