It really was subpar for a long time. Even at the start, whether the fabric (from garment to garment) was quality or not, was always a crapshoot. Varied from style to style.
have clothes from the 90ies, and the cost per wär form me is like pennies, they’re holding up so well. But I’m not even thinking buying stuff from them today.
Poor J. Crew. My last several trips to a J. Crew end up with me walking out empty handed shaking my head at the low quality, cheap textiles and high price points. On a happier note, the sales associates are always extremely helpful and nice.
I loved JCrew in the 80s, 90s, and 2000s. They didn't skimp on the quality of their fabrics. Now, everything is thin and quite CHEAP. Sadly, Talbots will be the next to fall.
I just hate that the quality of clothes has fallen so much, its really such a shame, but im glad theres people like Andrea Cheong (I hope I got her name right) who review clothes so customers can know whats good value
@@understitchYT Customer needs are dramatically changing and we have a big need for good quality. Andrea Wang is another “influencer” who’s focusing on teaching people about quality. Even second hand is having a revolution that’s going to demand good quality from companies. I’m very optimistic and think that the next fashion revolution is already here and fast fashion is going to die. Hopefully
You really see it in the coats, sweaters and shoes. I have some vintage jCrew flats that are all leather with leather sock. Made in Italy. 15 years old and still going. And the new ones… 🤢 Same with the sweaters. A JCrew merino sweater used to last a decade. The modern ones - which are more expensive with a worse fit - will last a season if you’re lucky. They’re about the quality of Uniqlo, which is why I now buy such sweaters at Uniqlo, where they cost $35-50
I have a closet full of vintage j crew. It’s a big motivator for staying in shape lol since I can still wear things from 15 years ago that get compliments alllll the time, the quality is unparalleled. Same with Ralph Lauren, etc.
I, as well, have a closet full of vintage JCrew. Thank goodness for Poshmark, which is where I purchased most of the clothing in recent years. The quality from 2010-2014 cannot be replaced with anything that is on the market today. I treasure my pieces and I also agree with you, it forces me to stay in shape to fit into my 4 and 6 sizes and the compliments that I get are unsurmountable to any other clothing lines. Vintage JCrew forever!! Cheers!!
LL Bean should be the anthesis of J.Crew. The Bean Brand stands for quality. Can't imagine they would be peddling schlock to status seekers. My current go to summer moccasins ( which I wear year round cause they are so comfortable ) were on my feet when I went to hospital in 2004. The shoes are still fantastic all these years later. I have a pair of all-black Bean boat shoes that are even older. They are just too too comfortable to relinquish. We are old friends. I have J. Crew clothes, now mostly shirts. I thought of J.Crew as more like "fast fashion." Ralph Lauren always sold better quality than J.Crew. The Ralph things look crisp next to my limpid Crew shirts.
Yes! I worked at J Crew in college in the 2000s. The clothing was somehow young and fresh but also classic, and the quality was excellent. I bought my first real business casual/professional wardrobe from J. Crew, and that clothing lasted. Then something shifted, and there was a slow but steady downhill trend. I remember this pair of khakis I had and a few tops that I wore all the time. I would buy OG J Crew immediately if it was available again.
I worked at Abercrombie during the same time and the quality of the clothing is vastly different from today. I still have pieces from both A&F, and JCrew that have help up.
This channel is so good. You provide so much valuable insight and an insane amount of research. I hope you know this doesn't go unnoticed across all your viewers!
i recently started my first year of fashion design and im so glad i found your amazing channel !! i would really like to get more and more educated about fashion and history, so your videos are super helpful and i love them tysm 😙🩷
Great video! When I was in my late 20’s (early 2000’s) working in a business-formal environment, almost my entire wardrobe budget went to J.Crew. I felt stylish and appropriate. I think it was something like 2019 when I placed an online order and received plastic, ill-fitting clothes that I realized it was all over. Such a shame. If they’d kept the quality up and raised the prices as needed, I’d still be a customer. RIP J.Crew. You were the MVP for a long time.
Really for a company that makes basics, as Jcrew was known, it makes no sense to make them badly because then people are not motivated to invest in them again. You’re not going to buy every colour of a T-shirt you know that will fall apart
@@understitchYT100% I used to buy up their merino Tippi sweaters and cashmere tees in the rainbow. I loved their suiting, too. The quality was aligned with the prices (to me). The faulty logic is that higher quality goods means fewer replacement sales. The reality is that I used to spend thousands annually at J Crew and now I almost never find something good enough to buy.
The era of J Lyons was the pinnacle. I bought so many beautiful things that were so special. Then they got rid of her and I stopped shopping there. I've seen it go downhill since.
I worked at J. Crew during the Drexler days. Being from inner city Philly, I felt out of place at first. So many rich kids coming into the Charleston store. But looking back, the brand was at its peak in those days and unstoppable (around 2004). That catalog! RIP classic J Crew-isha 😂. Always such good content on this channel!
@@understitchYT I never met him. However, what I do remember is that he called the store and personally left voicemails for me a few times. Somehow, customers would contact corporate and leave glowing reviews for me and he would acknowledge it each time. He did this for all the stores. What CEO does that? I was so happy and even wrote him a letter (that the general manager never sent to him, because I was Black and they were big time haters in South Carolina). He added amazing energy to the brand that you didn’t have to meet him to experience or feel. Good time, good times!
One part of the reason why I follow this channel is purely because of the narration. The quality of the voice and like all about it. Really appreciate listening to these videos.
Im 33 and getting tired of fast fashion clothing. Im transitioning to a more mature style which is causing me look at J.Crew. I want clothes that are classic with a little bit of trend but still good quality. Im pretty sure other ppl my age are starting to feel this way so maybe J. Crew might have a up tick in sales soon. Overall, i think since millennials are getting older, we’re stepping away from fast fashion and wanting better quality clothing. Hopefully, the fashion industry picks up on that and creates a space and/or solution for this.
Do you know what’s interesting, given that brands need to make a profit these days, I feel like you can find those basic comments in basically any brand. A lot of its styling.
A new video from you is like a piping hot cuppa at the end of the day. Always a pleasure. And about J.Crew? I can't wait to watch and learn from your thorough and expansive knowledge of the fashion business. - from your number one Danish fan :)
@@understitchYT I loved it. I didn't know much about J.Crew prior to watching your video, but I LOVE their 80's catalogue (had I been alive then, I'd have a stack of them by my bed). That preppy men's looks with the chinos and sweaters tied around their shoulders is my current style obsession (JFK Jr.'s streetwear comes to mind). And I know Jenna Lyons from her appearance on Lena Dunham's show Girls. I really like her and the woman knows how to dress, that's for sure.
I used to shop J Crew all the time then the styling became stale. The stores all looked the same and the merchandising did not change. It was the same season after season. On another note, I did not care for Jenna Lyons who was being treated like a celebrity by the press. I moved over to Club Monaco & Theory.
Theory still does surprisingly well too, but unlike J.Crew they have a notable presence in Asia. Their foreplanning of that has been so smart, probably something j.crew shouldve done🤷
Thank you so much for this. I'm searching for vintage J Crew on eBay right now! This might be a good time for me to request a video idea that's been on my mind for a long time: the rise and fall of Brooks Brothers. You could do an incredible job with it. The entire history of the Ivy League Look, and many other styles, all in one brand with a remarkable history. I would love you see you analyze it all. Thanks again for your great videos!
Lots of request for Brooke brothers, I really think I need to make that video, but I have the next few planned, so no promises for imminency just yet 😅 (two videos a month really limits the quantity of brands, but Id like to think I have quality instead 🥰)
@@understitchYT Would like to add 3 'to the queue' 😅 ▪︎ Christian Lacroix. (Sure - It probably failed b/c it wasn't selling enuff merchandise 2 become financially viable.) But how did it get to that? (B/c 2 my mind, they were joyous, artisanal, idiosyncratic apparell.) And which consumer wouldn't want that? (Also felt they missed a trick by not being stocked @ *Liberty) * Liberty = An upmarket Dept Store...somewhat quirkly...and based in London. ▪︎ Charles Jordan - A luxe shoe brand; big in the 70's and 80's. Then dropped off the radar.... ▪︎ A premium...'Made in Germany' womenswear brand. Which seemed 2 go into freefall after the death of its founder. At one point, it was owned by Meghan Mittal. (Of the Mittal family.) I I remember being surprised that with her fabulous wealth...she was unable to turn the brand around.
I used to love J.Crew, but they’ve cheapened the fabrics too much and the styles just don’t work anymore. It’s a shame to see a once-good brand lose it. Once a brand starts using all those crappy synthetic fibers, it’s on a downhill slide.
I live in Germany now and was raised in Italy. I heard of J.Crew before but that's basically it. It kind of seems like the equivalent of Benetton? Which, btw, deserves a video! Benetton holds a special place in my heart.
Anyone have any suggestions for alternative clothing stores? I've found clothing even in the $100-$200 range to be horrible quality. Isn't there anywhere with quality fabric that isn't several hundred dollars per dress??
I used to buy J Crew and Eddie Bauer the most but I'm in a more feminine era now and I find myself really loving Draper James. I think the quality is very good. I think the sale prices have been great so far. I like that it's preppy but also Southern and it's also vintage and coastal and it pays homage to the great women of Nashville and the music made in Nashville. The online boutique is very good and I believe they also have a line on QVC. There are a couple dresses I'm saving up for but generally it's very reasonably priced with boutique charm. Also, if you find yourself in Nashville you should stop by the physical store, there aren't a lot of extended size choices in the boutique but the accessories are super fun.
What a great video! I really enjoyed this! I graduated high school in 2010 right in the Lyons era! And most of the clothes I still own today are from J.Crew. I still really appreciate the overall prep look and I still wear it. I don’t know what J Crew can do at this point to save themselves in the world Being destroyed by fast fashion, but I hope they can survive and create products that people genuinely want to be seen in. Thank you so much for this information.
This was such an interesting video, thank you! I was very smitten with J. Crew during it's preppy heyday and even into Jenna's reign. Collection items were so amazing, often very fashion forward and always great quality. I still have a few. This era of J. Crew spawned entire online communities devoted to the retailer, like the now-defunct blog J. Crew Aficionado. People shared reviews, sizing tips, availability of sought-after products in local stores, and even bought, sold and traded pieces. Some of these online J. Crew lovers were even invited to fashion week shows. It's rare to see this level of devotion to a fashion retailer. Sadly, I now slot them firmly in the fast fashion category, more akin to Forever21 than they are to even Banana Republic. I haven't shopped J. Crew in years.
Youre so right that its rare to see for a high street label. That kind of devotion and fandom is often found in more luxury houses, or smaller brands because they’re so generous to the people that helped the company find its footing. But often those loyal customers get overlooked by mass fashion brands today.
I remember this, and I also remember that there were blogs that were against the era too. There was always somewhat a battle at that time between the younger women that loved Lyons and the ones that preferred the more "classic" subdued colors. I think there was a part of that going on as well. As Lyons became more entrenched she started to break from some of the "rules" and some women didn't like it. While those of us that do really like fashion did, some didn't. And started to not shop as much there. Then as quality dropped, even more stopped shopping. The example is in one of the comments here, when someone criticized her for changing up the JCrew aesthetic. Without realizing that was one of the reasons WHY she got hired and promoted.
Thanks for the deep dive. I didn't really follow J. Crew during their early days. I started to pay attention to them when Jenna Lyons came on the scene. They had A LOT of hype during this time. I was shocked that Jenna was unable to get another high profile job in the fashion industry when her time at J Crew was over.
I would imagine she probably could have quite easily, I wonder if the timing just wasnt right or if she chose to bow out because she likes RHONY so much 🤣
In 2005-2006, the Creative Director of Clothing was Everick Brown. He worked on his first collection of clothing & was fired before it reached the stores. He was replaced by Jenna Lyons. She became part of almost all branding in NYC for J. Crew in the subway & posters throughout NYC. I found her focus in the posters insufferable. Everick Brown then went into his own Furniture Store EBHome (which I initially helped with branding).
I've been complaining about the decline in JCrew quality for a decade. I bought a lot of their garments in the 2000s and very early 2010s because they were classic styles and silhouettes often with a twist, like an unusual color. I've never followed trends and I'm willing to spend more on items that will last longer and JCrew no longer fits the bill. For a while, I replaced it with Boden, but that brand seems to have followed JCrew's failing business model. Both switched away from nice wool and classic designs to tons of jersey dresses and disposable t-shirts, essentially disposable fast fashion for a higher price that H&M or Shein. I've taken to thrifting and sewing my own clothes, which is time-consuming. I wish I could find a good JCrew replacement.
Theres a few people offering alternatives in the comments here, but honestly it seems like most people have nowherr to go now, which is really crappy but just shows how big of a gap there is in the market now
While I was working for a fashion NGO, J.crew were the few companies that actually donated their excess materials for us to repurpose them and even donated clothes for us to fund for Tsunami victims. Sad to see them struggle 😔
@@understitchYT Ya, back in the 2000's era. Not sure there was a change in management thereafter but had heard about J.crew through our non-profit designer/founder
I think that J Crew are really getting beat up by the return of Banana Republic and Abercrombie and Fitch. AF has targeted a more laidback, casual, younger preppy look very effectively and has successfully made themselves desirable to the early 20’s set again, while BR has gone after the young professional that was formerly J. Crews bread and butter. Their clothes generally use worse fabrics but better construction than J. Crew and undercut them slightly on price. They both adopted the muted and warmer tones of the “old money” aesthetic better than J crew, which always seems to offer very vibrant colors that are difficult to style with many outfits.
Banana republic I have to admit isnt my favourite, I dont think the quality is enough for how repetitive their product lines are. A&F however has been really fascinating in their rebrand
@@understitchYT I agree, their fabrics often include significant polyester blends as well as lots of nylon and elastane. I mostly avoid them. I do think their designs are more modern and curated than J.Crew, however, and I understand the draw.
I love J. Crew's Liberty of London print shirts, I find them on eBay. Other than that I guess I haven't bought anything from J Crew in a while. They were everything back in the day! The supermodels in the catalogues cemented J. Crew's iconic status, for me. Interesting to learn what happened. Great video!
Liberty’s fabrics are just on another level! When I was a kid and learning to sew literally noone in my family knew where to get good fabrics from and I ended up begging for a metre and a half of just anything to make shirts from. They were all terrible because I was 8, but god I loved the fabric. (Also, Im guessing this is why I didnt have many pokemon cards 🤣)
@@understitchYT lol wow it's so good to meet another Liberty fan! I'm a bit of a collector. I have some scarves, shirts, two sets of rather glorious Tana Lawn pajamas... the colors never fade! The fabric never pills, it's so silky smooth. Heaven. Expensive pajamas but so worth it. The detail & quality, about as close to perfect as it's possible to get. It's silly but I feel loved every time I wear anything by Liberty of London 😄😊
I am a huge J. Crew fan. My 3 year old Lhasa Apso is named J. Crew! I still have a lot of catalogs from the mid 2000s. The mid 2000 style was one I desired to have. Jenna had this ability to take basic pieces and make them modern. The women’s pieces started to change a year or two before she left and I remember not liking the J. Crew style as much. I started buying more pieces from Factory. Now, I can’t remember the last time I bought an item from retail. I think it’s been almost two years in December. I think maybe I have bought two shirts in the last three years. The new head of women’s design, Olympia, is not doing any favors to the brand. I hate the current looks - cropped and boxy tops and baggy bottoms. Not for me. I will keep buying from Factory.
I have been buying JCrew for a very long time...I still get shirts and sweaters from them and unique blouses.... I am 76 so by now the pants are not fitting right. But I do want them to succeed again. Fingers crossed. Thank you for this very informative video on their journey.
I loveeee J Crew, I will not stop shopping there. I get clothes for my frequent Caribbean vacations. Amazing finds for the office and casual tees etc for a busy career woman, running errands on a day off ❤❤
I agree, and I’m sure I’m not who they have in mind for their target demographic (I’m 59). But they have a huge size range, great styles and their tees are very comfy.
There was a long stretch of time in the late aughts to early-mid 2010s when, without exaggerating, I could say that at least half of my wardrobe came from J. Crew, both for workwear and casual wear. I’m not sure who they’re trying to appeal to now, but I’m definitely no longer their target demographic, because nothing appeals to me. I don’t care if it’s no longer on trend - I would still happily purchase the classic J. Crew preppy style! Btw, I would love to see a full video on Madewell. Also, while we’re on the topic of classic heritage American labels, pleeeaaaase consider doing a video on Brooks Brothers. That’s another brand that has tragically lost its way, and I still actively miss the Red Fleece line. Love your videos 🩷💕 They’re the perfect balance of education and entertainment!
@@understitchYT I honestly haven’t found another brand that could reliably deliver styles that I liked. I started to buy a lot more workwear from Brooks Brothers, especially after the launch of Red Fleece, but that line seems to have been quietly retired at some time during the earlier part of the pandemic 😭 This also happens to be when I transitioned to work-from-home, so I’ve purchased next to no workwear since 2020. I should find out if there are any support groups for others going through prep withdrawal - prepaholics anonymous? Even the (very mild) resurgence of neo-prep seems to be mostly limited to menswear, so shopping hasn’t been nearly as fun for a long time.
@@understitchYT I was in that boat as well- I have mostly switched to LL Bean for casual fall and winter wear and Suitsupply for suiting. I also really like Onia and Brooks Brothers and I will occasionally still buy J. Crew for cheap summer casual clothes (especially shorts because they sell a five inch inseam). Thankfully, the old J. Crew items I have have held up well, but the new stuff I doubt will last as long.
Jenna Lyons is a visionary to be sure. Her designs and styling were fresh and exciting. However, I feel that she took J. Crew away from what they have always represented, which is high quality (cotton, wool, cashmere, twill, tweed, oxfords, chinos, loafers etc.) clothing staples that represented a tasteful way of dressing to the more modern ideas that J. Crew came to represent. Personally, I can't afford a $400 herringbone tweed blazer, coat, cashmere sweater or loafers but I still feel that offering quality pieces is the standard for many to aspire to own. I look at Brooks Brothers, LL Bean and Lands End to compare prices of a simple cotton tee or seasonal turtle neck and most of the time J. Crew's price points are higher. With the addition of polyester and other trash fabrics, it's a hard no for a lot of their pieces for me.
I do agree that she took the visions of the company away from what it was originally known for, but that was exactly what she was tasked to do, because they knew that the original aesthetic of the whole thing wasn’t selling anymore
The problem is the price is astronomical and the quality and design is complete sh!t. No one in their right mind would buy that full price, so they rely on the sales. But I also wonder how much inventory is just thrown in the trash bc it’s already disintegrating on the rack. They could have improved the quality and style and have regained a wealthier clientele willing to spend more and a more middle class clientele willing to invest in quality-this, actually, would have been a fantastic differentiator as it’s difficult to find good quality fabrics and construction now even from designer labels-but they had already alienated this entire clientele and was unwilling to win them back. I wonder how much of this is J.Crew’s fault and the shifting market vs how much of this is just internal gouging from the private equity companies that owned them.
@@understitchYT when I was in high school/secondary school I went to boarding school and everyone there wore almost exclusively J.Crew. The American WASPs respected it so much because for a period of time the quality was really that fantastic and the style seemingly so classic or at least aiming for timelessness.
This was highly informative! I’ve really been enjoying your videos; thank you. Do you have any insight into what happened with Madewell? It’s been bothering me over the years.
I really don’t, they’re a very American brands, and obviously I’m not American, so off the top of my head I don’t have a lot of information, maybe I’ll make a video in the future though and I can do all the research 🥰
I really loved the brand during the Jenna Lyons years, and even now looking at the runway shows from that era, it all looks so good and fun. Now when I go in there, nothing pulls me in. I leave empty-handed.
I worked at J.Crew from Nov 2007 - Nov 2014. I have great memories of my time there. I recognized one of the videos with Mickey Drexler going into the stores, I think we watched it during a meeting 😂. Things were really changing when I left, but I'm so glad I was there for the seven years when it was good!
10 years ago I used to buy my son a lot at J.Crew for college. Everything I bought him fell apart within two or three months. The quality is horrible despite other changes in management and CEOs. I grew up in a prep background in Connecticut and I would never ever shop there. They’re done.
@@understitchYT Exactly. It’s fallen to the ranks of Ann Taylor and Banana Republic. It’s too bad. Remember their J Crew Collection? It was higher quality but too costly for a J Crew product.
Anthropologie and Free People have really creative designs and appealing stores but their fabrics fall apart and the items have no staying power. I was in J Crew yesterday for the first time in years and i feel as if the design and quality has greatly improved. I have been through several revitalizations of J Crew and hope this is the beginning of a return to their core quality and design.
@@leslie4551 I agree about J Crew! I bought the 2023 version of their lady day coat and was very pleased with it, it feels like a return to the quality of earlier versions, and overall the 2024 selections have been classic, seem quite well made, and the fit/sizing/consistency has really improved. I’m very happy about it because the decline I was seeing was so disappointing and I really had my fingers crossed that they would rally!
I had no idea J.Crew was together with madewell. I just purchased a madewell leather purse from Nordstrom last year, it was my first purchase from the brand. I had read reviews that their leather items were of good quality but also affordable. It has been my everyday bag since I bought it. I’m pretty hard on my bags and it’s still in great shape.
Ive heard good things about the quality, but as far as I know the styles arent the most up to date. Perhaps I could say more reliable evergreen products
@@understitchYT that could be, my bag is a very basic slouchy crossbody. It’s not a structured bag. I was looking for a basic everyday bag and it fit the bill.
Nope, it hasn't been incredible style in years. It looks like every other "luxury" company now. So I haven't bought into it. But if you like them, that's your choice.
Highly doubtful she experienced hate for her particular religion in the 80s at an ivy league university. Even more unlikely that she was prohibited from wearing preppy clothes at said University specifically because of her religion.
I worked for Jantzen in 1979-80. They went through a buy-out from Blue Bell (Wrangler) during this time period. Employees had to sell their retirement stock. Previously they had started a marker (pattern) business, making sized markers for other brands like Jones New York. Jantzen also had franchises they supplied with swimwear designs all over the world. The sale to Blue Bell started a further downward slide with a sale to Perry Ellis. They closed the men's and women's sportswear lines. They must have closed their marker making business at some point. They also had knitwear (polo shirt textile) factories in South Carolina. Their garment manufacturing went overseas, as most garment production has gone. They limited design to swimwear. Sales limped along only with swimwear onlne sales and a few other outlets. Jantzen was sold again to Florida based INC along with 30 other brands underneath Perry Ellis International. Production has increased for swimwear sales and they are making more of an effort.
@@understitchYT... it was sad to see it all happen in front of my eyes. I thought everybody saw $ signs (Chairman, Company Board, large stockholders and Blue Bell). Some of Jantzen management was forward looking (my boss, Jim Angell, Project Engineering). He did the computerized marker making implementation. He was also working on the computerized cutting system for the cutting rooms. It did not work well with Lycra swimsuit fabric. It works best on a low number of plies and not stretchy fabrics. Slowly parts of the company were closed...local production in Portland, Vancouver and Hood River. The marker making contract production closed. Men and women's sportswear lines closed. Only women's swimwear lines were left. The Main office and archive, in Portland, is still there. Design offices in Los Angeles and New York are probably closed. INC is based in Miami. There is a better online presence now. I still like their swimwear.
Things that have kept me away from J crew in the last few years. 1) return shipping isn’t free. I need to be able to do free returns by mail. I don’t have a store anywhere close to where I live. 2) the quality has gone downhill a lot. 3) my main reason-prices are still too high and the sales aren’t great. Items are priced too high so even the occasional 40% off full priced items still doesn’t cut it for me. 4) final sale markdowns is something I will not purchase. I considered a linen dress thats on their website now. originally priced at $198, it’s marked down to $177 now, so not that big of a discount and it’s marked final sale. I won’t spend nearly $200 on an item that I don’t know if it’ll fit me and I can’t return. I know final sale items has become the norm for some smaller designers but it’s not the norm for majority of the well known, established online clothing stores. 5) lastly, overall poor style and design.
i worked at J. Crew the summer of 1999 for a couple of months before going into my senior year of college. i had such a wonderful time working for them. years later i reapplied for a stylist assistant position with the company (Madewell too), but i didn't get it...oh well, their loss.
After seeing jenna and her classically gorgeous aryle on RHONY I revisited jcrew and i have been pleasantly surprised. Now I'm obsessed like i was in the 1980s. Love!!!!! I'm 51 and rhe sexy quiet luxury is my go to.
Thanks for that walk down memory lane, really well done. I started as a part time sales associate in Philadelphia in Women's Classics. We would pull all nighter's doing floor moves and folding every item of clothing before a corporate visit. Aurthur and Emily even came to the store. By the time I left J. Crew about 1998, I was the Store Manager in Raleigh NC. There were some amazing years, a bit of a roller coaster at times, but I met some great people and life long friends. I still have a couple of pieces from Collection...it was my favorite line and the quality was incredible back then. I can't see a Rollneck sweater without flashbacks!
So sad to see how hard it is for anything like the original J Crew to compete in the current market. A lower priced “subversive prep” like Miu Miu has shown on the runway would be cool. Having been a fan since their original catalogues came out (and still scouting early J Crew on eBAy), I wish them well.
Honestly these days I doubt youll find quality like old J.Crew even in more luxurious brands tbh, its just not the focus of the market rn, which is a real shame. By and large consumers today have been taught to want the clothes to be considered cool more than wanting them to last a long time. Im sure itll change eventually, but for now that seems to be the market
First, I appreciate how you attribute and recognize your sources. I’m a boomer who was swept up in the preppy craze of the late 70s, when I was in college. I looked to LLBean because of their vast range of size offerings (I’m 6’3” - 190 cm, 185 pounds - 84 kg), price, and air of old-school authenticity. J. Crew seemed too new and inauthentic. I never liked pink and lime green, but I like the comfortable and timeless preppy style, which I still wear in a modified version that isn’t so kitsch.
The book is honestly so good, if youre wanting to read and reminisce more, it was just so good, Ive read it at least twice now Have you looked at Jack Wills for taller preppy stuff? The Im 5’10 and the clothes were always long on me so maybe its worth a try. I cant speak to their quality now because I just havent been in in years, but in the 2010s the quality was incredible
As a teen I moved to the states for uni in the mid-80s so the prep look for this British born prep / conservative style of dress was perfect. Freshman year my peers were wearing blue jeans and I just couldn't do the dungaree thing..... so J.Crew khakis and Oxford's and sweaters were my thing. I have new lived on three continents but I don't think I've purchased anything J.Crew since the late nineties. At that point I was dissatisfied with the slipping quality of the cloth which was always my first priority. I still have JCrew sweaters that I can wear 30 years later but I see nothing in the stores I would want at this point. _FYI first time viewer of a video on your channel and I'll consider subscribing! As I'm always a multitasker I definitely appreciate you putting the timeline just in a simple year/date at the bottom left of the screen. I wouldn't be paying attention and you would say something very informative and then I'd look back and instead of having to rewind there was the year that we were covering._ _Incredibly informative. Thank you!_
Its so interesting to me that they clearly knew quality was a huge selling point for them and still on multiple occasions chose to lower it in order to widen profit margins. Really silly bcs it pushes out true preppy customers who help legitimise the company in that space 🤷 Also thank you so much, Im glad you subscribed, we have a great community of people here 🥰
I want to know what happened to: Cache, Lillie Rubin, Casual Corner, Carole Little. All had great clothes for a long time and the quality was just fine. Within maybe a 10 year period they all disappeared.
What a surprise - a venture capital firm buys in and suddenly any long-term goals are based on boosting short-term profitability with a total lack on vision or understanding of brand and customers.
I haven't read the book yet, but the history recounted here varies from my own personal experience. I ran a hot advertising agency and was approached by Arthur Cinader to manage a redesign of the company image and look. The story I heard was that Emily, while at college, was bringing home simple "prep" designs her friends were wearing. Arthur gave her some space to launch the new line, piggybacking off of the capabilities of their existing catalog operation. She started quite small and the brand exploded. As for me, the job wasn't really did, but I referred them to someone I knew at Gap, who went in as their creative director.
Oh thats so interesting, was it Mickey Drexler by any chance or someone else? If you have everand the book is available there on the basic subscription. If you do end up reading it please do let me know what you think and if your own history fits because Id love to knwo. Im available here, on email (contact@understitch.co.uk) and on instagram 🤍
@@understitchYT No, it wasn't Mickey. It was just a creative director for the catalog design and ads. Went to the offices in NYC and met Emily. I went to prep school and dressed their style naturally, so I think that was part of my appeal for them. I already "lived" their look. Their interest was very flattering, but not what I did.
How interesting, thank you so much for sharing your perspective, I guess everyone has different lived experiences so that may account for the varied memory of how it all started/happened. I do recommend the book though, esp if it differs from your exp, itd be interesting to see how they differ
I am a big J.Crew fan and loved their aesthetic in the mid-2000s. Recently I feel like they sell too much stuff that is too trendy. Of course, they still have the classic pieces, but most of their stuff is trendy. Also, the prices have gone up and the quality has gone down. I still think the quality is better than like H&M but used to better for sure.
I think they probably could’ve been okay if they responded better to what people wanted at that time, they seem to not understand that people weren’t going to be able to return if they couldn’t find what they wanted
@@understitchYT the bohemian clothes were not what folks wanted….geez! I never stopped looking and just purchased quite a few pieces after looking at this vid.
I wonder if they still released their paper catalogs, I loved those. It has been a long time since I went to J. Crew, I loved their simple and classic designs. And their quality was good.
As a semi young (23) J. Crew consumer, I am always looking for timeless staples in the current fash fashion world. I love J. Crew, I am always complimented when wearing their pieces. I feel like I can build outfits around their designs that will be age appropriate but also trendy. Not trying to say that J. Crew is the place for trendy items (no one my age really shops there) but I think I am able to maintain my style with the help of their basic high quality staples. I hope J. Crew finds their stride ⛵️
Honestly thats so great, thats what so many consumers want; dependability and trust. It can be very hard to find so Im really glad youve found that so early
Having lived through, and eaten up, the j. crew story as it was sold by catalog (rather like novels had been printed chapter by chapter in magazines previously), we looked forward to each new installment and poured over the invented lifestyle, I don't think enough credit goes to the j. peterman catalogs before it. They really mastered weaving insider cool, carefree, classy stories of privilege.
I remember my favorite J.Crew staple. A thick wool roll neck sweater with rolled sleeves in grey. I loved the forest green version too. J.Crew was best when their clothes were beautifully crafted minimalist staples with earthy colors. The J.Crew men's store in Soho was a jewel, as good as but less expensive than John Varvatos. I lost interest when J.Crew started to look like the GAP and Banana Republic, using cheap fabrics, generic prints, and garish colors. Incredibly, at 29:42, this image from inside of J.Crew at South Coast Plaza is exactly as I remember it. I was shocked to see that the clothes looked nothing like J.Crew. The label said J.Crew but the clothes were not J.Crew. It was the end of an era. Sadly, I walked out and never looked back.
hello I want to start a TH-cam channel and was wondering what platforms are good for editing videos? I want to make videos with a VoiceOver so I was just wondering. Thanks.
I ordered a few sweaters from J Crew in the 1990s. It was so exciting! And I wore them a lot. The next year, I was in Palm Springs and went to the J Crew at the outlet mall there. It was decidedly less great. There was a lot of junk clothing, unlike in the home catalogue.
As with most brands, mid or high-end, I tend to source our older/vintage pieces. Quality of stuff today, considering the prices have doubled and even tripled in some cases is nowhere near where it should be. Sad.
Bought 2 mock turtle necks from one of the first catalogues. Incredible quality, had them for about 20 years. Shorts and khakis i bought in the early 2000s were crap. 1st store in South Street Seaport was great
I agree J Crew has faltered. I recently walked into a Banana Republic for the first time in more than a decade and was pleasantly surprised. The quality and styles were much better than in years past... Perhaps even J Crew, once acclaimed, can regain their footing.
These classic “preppy” or “heritage” clothing companies have all downgraded in quality. I wore J Crew, Lands End, and of course Polo Ralph Lauren and Izod Lacoste. These brands have all skimped on quality and increased in price all hoping to rely on their brand name loyalty. I used to wear J Crew khakis back in the mid nineties because they were the best khakis I could buy for the price and they offered cuffed or regular hem. They wore well and they lasted. The khakis they offer now are not well made, are light weight, and cost more. I wish they’d go back to better quality for a fair price like they did back in the 1990’s through the early 2000’s.
Not sure who wrote the description, but "its" should be used when possessive. So "from its beginnings as a mail-order catalogue, through to its brick and mortar expansion."
Loved both the original prep feel & Jenna Lyons phase that has seemed to change but us older millennials are hoping for a revival of past things we loved. If they can't, they may die out.
Have to disagree with much you have to say in the first 5 minutes of your video. 1-mail order catalogs have been around for 100 years before J.Crew selling clothing along with a wide variety of goods. (Sears, Montgomery Ward, JC Penney) 2-Lands End and LL Bean were selling affordable “preppy” clothing long before J.Crew, Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfiger.
Great you commented so I can clear this up. Yes, catalogues did exist before J.Crew, as I said the family even had one called Popular Club Plan which was not the first either, it was just successful. And secondly, I had to google to check, but Lands end was founded in 1967 and LLBean, though founded earlier, at that time were making shoes and outdoor wear, they had a bit of a rebrand to look more preppy around the same time of J.Crew. It seems they werent really selling prep before, but of course I wasnt around between the 40s to 70s to know how well it was adopted by the Yale crowd
Yup..the quality of fabrics and design and manufacture have been so subpar, it’s truly sad. I miss the old decades of JCrew.
Its wild how thats the main thing that sells preppy or simpler clothing and it still ebbs and flows
As with most brands 😔
It really was subpar for a long time. Even at the start, whether the fabric (from garment to garment) was quality or not, was always a crapshoot. Varied from style to style.
The sizes don’t run the same way anymore.
have clothes from the 90ies, and the cost per wär form me is like pennies, they’re holding up so well. But I’m not even thinking buying stuff from them today.
Poor J. Crew. My last several trips to a J. Crew end up with me walking out empty handed shaking my head at the low quality, cheap textiles and high price points. On a happier note, the sales associates are always extremely helpful and nice.
Low quality will never encourage people to come back 🤷 silly of them to drop it for short term profits
I loved JCrew in the 80s, 90s, and 2000s. They didn't skimp on the quality of their fabrics. Now, everything is thin and quite CHEAP.
Sadly, Talbots will be the next to fall.
I just hate that the quality of clothes has fallen so much, its really such a shame, but im glad theres people like Andrea Cheong (I hope I got her name right) who review clothes so customers can know whats good value
@@understitchYT Customer needs are dramatically changing and we have a big need for good quality. Andrea Wang is another “influencer” who’s focusing on teaching people about quality. Even second hand is having a revolution that’s going to demand good quality from companies. I’m very optimistic and think that the next fashion revolution is already here and fast fashion is going to die. Hopefully
You really see it in the coats, sweaters and shoes. I have some vintage jCrew flats that are all leather with leather sock. Made in Italy. 15 years old and still going. And the new ones… 🤢
Same with the sweaters. A JCrew merino sweater used to last a decade. The modern ones - which are more expensive with a worse fit - will last a season if you’re lucky. They’re about the quality of Uniqlo, which is why I now buy such sweaters at Uniqlo, where they cost $35-50
True. I was thinking the same. I do shop at Talbots. I love their 100% cotton, linen or wool clothing.
Nine years ago Talbot cardigans were beautiful. They had the fabric, colors and fit. Now they’re like fast fashion.
I have a closet full of vintage j crew. It’s a big motivator for staying in shape lol since I can still wear things from 15 years ago that get compliments alllll the time, the quality is unparalleled. Same with Ralph Lauren, etc.
When you buy something that’s great quality, it’s supposed to last, that’s why so many people are disappointed with JCrew today
@@understitchYT I absolutely agree, the current standards have fallen drastically! This was a great video
I, as well, have a closet full of vintage JCrew. Thank goodness for Poshmark, which is where I purchased most of the clothing in recent years. The quality from 2010-2014 cannot be replaced with anything that is on the market today. I treasure my pieces and I also agree with you, it forces me to stay in shape to fit into my 4 and 6 sizes and the compliments that I get are unsurmountable to any other clothing lines. Vintage JCrew forever!! Cheers!!
LL Bean would be a good video. I always wondered about that company.
Oh yeah for sure
LL Bean should be the anthesis of J.Crew. The Bean Brand stands for quality. Can't imagine they would be peddling schlock to status seekers. My current go to summer moccasins ( which I wear year round cause they are so comfortable ) were on my feet when I went to hospital in 2004. The shoes are still fantastic all these years later. I have a pair of all-black Bean boat shoes that are even older. They are just too too comfortable to relinquish. We are old friends. I have J. Crew clothes, now mostly shirts. I thought of J.Crew as more like "fast fashion." Ralph Lauren always sold better quality than J.Crew. The Ralph things look crisp next to my limpid Crew shirts.
Yes! I worked at J Crew in college in the 2000s. The clothing was somehow young and fresh but also classic, and the quality was excellent. I bought my first real business casual/professional wardrobe from J. Crew, and that clothing lasted. Then something shifted, and there was a slow but steady downhill trend. I remember this pair of khakis I had and a few tops that I wore all the time. I would buy OG J Crew immediately if it was available again.
To me, it was really good how they translated that Christopher Kane neon energy into something that was salable for their audience
I worked at Abercrombie during the same time and the quality of the clothing is vastly different from today. I still have pieces from both A&F, and JCrew that have help up.
This channel is so good. You provide so much valuable insight and an insane amount of research. I hope you know this doesn't go unnoticed across all your viewers!
I’m so glad you think so, I was at fashion week this season in London and so it seems like things are on the up for me 🥰, it’s very humbling
i recently started my first year of fashion design and im so glad i found your amazing channel !! i would really like to get more and more educated about fashion and history, so your videos are super helpful and i love them tysm 😙🩷
Im so glad, always happy to see new talent
Greed ruins everything. Thank you for such a detailed interesting presentation. I learned a lot!
Greed 👏 ruins 👏 everything👏
Great video! When I was in my late 20’s (early 2000’s) working in a business-formal environment, almost my entire wardrobe budget went to J.Crew. I felt stylish and appropriate. I think it was something like 2019 when I placed an online order and received plastic, ill-fitting clothes that I realized it was all over.
Such a shame. If they’d kept the quality up and raised the prices as needed, I’d still be a customer. RIP J.Crew. You were the MVP for a long time.
Really for a company that makes basics, as Jcrew was known, it makes no sense to make them badly because then people are not motivated to invest in them again. You’re not going to buy every colour of a T-shirt you know that will fall apart
@@understitchYT100% I used to buy up their merino Tippi sweaters and cashmere tees in the rainbow. I loved their suiting, too. The quality was aligned with the prices (to me). The faulty logic is that higher quality goods means fewer replacement sales. The reality is that I used to spend thousands annually at J Crew and now I almost never find something good enough to buy.
The era of J Lyons was the pinnacle. I bought so many beautiful things that were so special. Then they got rid of her and I stopped shopping there. I've seen it go downhill since.
I agree! She combined quirk and classic style. Definitely my taste!
She always had a really good mix of interesting things and basics, that I always really appreciate
Same!
I worked at J. Crew during the Drexler days. Being from inner city Philly, I felt out of place at first. So many rich kids coming into the Charleston store. But looking back, the brand was at its peak in those days and unstoppable (around 2004). That catalog! RIP classic J Crew-isha 😂. Always such good content on this channel!
Did you meet him? What was he like?
@@understitchYT I never met him. However, what I do remember is that he called the store and personally left voicemails for me a few times. Somehow, customers would contact corporate and leave glowing reviews for me and he would acknowledge it each time. He did this for all the stores. What CEO does that? I was so happy and even wrote him a letter (that the general manager never sent to him, because I was Black and they were big time haters in South Carolina). He added amazing energy to the brand that you didn’t have to meet him to experience or feel. Good time, good times!
Tremaine Emory worked at J Crew back in the day! They stressed him about his Afro! Long story short. Now we have Denim Tears ❤
One part of the reason why I follow this channel is purely because of the narration. The quality of the voice and like all about it. Really appreciate listening to these videos.
What a lovely thing to read thank you so much
Im 33 and getting tired of fast fashion clothing. Im transitioning to a more mature style which is causing me look at J.Crew. I want clothes that are classic with a little bit of trend but still good quality. Im pretty sure other ppl my age are starting to feel this way so maybe J. Crew might have a up tick in sales soon.
Overall, i think since millennials are getting older, we’re stepping away from fast fashion and wanting better quality clothing. Hopefully, the fashion industry picks up on that and creates a space and/or solution for this.
Do you know what’s interesting, given that brands need to make a profit these days, I feel like you can find those basic comments in basically any brand. A lot of its styling.
The quality isn’t great, not for the price. That’s the issue.
A new video from you is like a piping hot cuppa at the end of the day. Always a pleasure. And about J.Crew? I can't wait to watch and learn from your thorough and expansive knowledge of the fashion business. - from your number one Danish fan :)
Im so happy to have a number one danish fan 🥰 Let me know if you liked the video
@@understitchYT I loved it. I didn't know much about J.Crew prior to watching your video, but I LOVE their 80's catalogue (had I been alive then, I'd have a stack of them by my bed). That preppy men's looks with the chinos and sweaters tied around their shoulders is my current style obsession (JFK Jr.'s streetwear comes to mind). And I know Jenna Lyons from her appearance on Lena Dunham's show Girls. I really like her and the woman knows how to dress, that's for sure.
100% agree! Had no idea that TPG was involved with JCrew at that time.
I used to shop J Crew all the time then the styling became stale. The stores all looked the same and the merchandising did not change. It was the same season after season. On another note, I did not care for Jenna Lyons who was being treated like a celebrity by the press. I moved over to Club Monaco & Theory.
Theory still does surprisingly well too, but unlike J.Crew they have a notable presence in Asia. Their foreplanning of that has been so smart, probably something j.crew shouldve done🤷
Thank you so much for this. I'm searching for vintage J Crew on eBay right now! This might be a good time for me to request a video idea that's been on my mind for a long time: the rise and fall of Brooks Brothers. You could do an incredible job with it. The entire history of the Ivy League Look, and many other styles, all in one brand with a remarkable history. I would love you see you analyze it all. Thanks again for your great videos!
Lots of request for Brooke brothers, I really think I need to make that video, but I have the next few planned, so no promises for imminency just yet 😅 (two videos a month really limits the quantity of brands, but Id like to think I have quality instead 🥰)
Would love for you to do a video on Kimora Lee Simmons and Baby Phat!
I got quite a few requests for that recently, the next two/three are planned but maybe after that
@@understitchYT
Would like to add 3 'to the queue' 😅
▪︎ Christian Lacroix.
(Sure - It probably failed b/c it wasn't selling enuff merchandise 2 become financially viable.) But how did it get to that? (B/c 2 my mind, they were joyous, artisanal, idiosyncratic apparell.) And which consumer wouldn't want that?
(Also felt they missed a trick by not being stocked @ *Liberty)
* Liberty = An upmarket Dept Store...somewhat quirkly...and based in London.
▪︎ Charles Jordan - A luxe shoe brand; big in the 70's and 80's. Then dropped off the radar....
▪︎ A premium...'Made in Germany' womenswear brand. Which seemed 2 go into freefall after the death of its founder.
At one point, it was owned by Meghan Mittal. (Of the Mittal family.) I
I remember being surprised that with her fabulous wealth...she was unable to turn the brand around.
I used to love J.Crew, but they’ve cheapened the fabrics too much and the styles just don’t work anymore. It’s a shame to see a once-good brand lose it. Once a brand starts using all those crappy synthetic fibers, it’s on a downhill slide.
I think most brands have dropped their quality to be honest, but it’s most noticeable when a brand has championed itself on quality
Last winter I liked military coat in catalog . When saw
It in store, didnt liked the fabric. 😟
I live in Germany now and was raised in Italy. I heard of J.Crew before but that's basically it. It kind of seems like the equivalent of Benetton? Which, btw, deserves a video! Benetton holds a special place in my heart.
Yeah its really similar to benetton imo, j.crew is obviously more american, but yeah quite close
My senior year was all about Benetton!
Anyone have any suggestions for alternative clothing stores? I've found clothing even in the $100-$200 range to be horrible quality. Isn't there anywhere with quality fabric that isn't several hundred dollars per dress??
Try Madewell, Anthropologie, Talbots, Ann Taylor, banana republic
@@mynameispeaches Thank you!
Everlane
I used to buy J Crew and Eddie Bauer the most but I'm in a more feminine era now and I find myself really loving Draper James. I think the quality is very good. I think the sale prices have been great so far. I like that it's preppy but also Southern and it's also vintage and coastal and it pays homage to the great women of Nashville and the music made in Nashville. The online boutique is very good and I believe they also have a line on QVC. There are a couple dresses I'm saving up for but generally it's very reasonably priced with boutique charm. Also, if you find yourself in Nashville you should stop by the physical store, there aren't a lot of extended size choices in the boutique but the accessories are super fun.
What a great video! I really enjoyed this! I graduated high school in 2010 right in the Lyons era! And most of the clothes I still own today are from J.Crew. I still really appreciate the overall prep look and I still wear it. I don’t know what J Crew can do at this point to save themselves in the world Being destroyed by fast fashion, but I hope they can survive and create products that people genuinely want to be seen in. Thank you so much for this information.
This was such an interesting video, thank you! I was very smitten with J. Crew during it's preppy heyday and even into Jenna's reign. Collection items were so amazing, often very fashion forward and always great quality. I still have a few. This era of J. Crew spawned entire online communities devoted to the retailer, like the now-defunct blog J. Crew Aficionado. People shared reviews, sizing tips, availability of sought-after products in local stores, and even bought, sold and traded pieces. Some of these online J. Crew lovers were even invited to fashion week shows. It's rare to see this level of devotion to a fashion retailer. Sadly, I now slot them firmly in the fast fashion category, more akin to Forever21 than they are to even Banana Republic. I haven't shopped J. Crew in years.
Youre so right that its rare to see for a high street label. That kind of devotion and fandom is often found in more luxury houses, or smaller brands because they’re so generous to the people that helped the company find its footing. But often those loyal customers get overlooked by mass fashion brands today.
I remember this, and I also remember that there were blogs that were against the era too. There was always somewhat a battle at that time between the younger women that loved Lyons and the ones that preferred the more "classic" subdued colors. I think there was a part of that going on as well. As Lyons became more entrenched she started to break from some of the "rules" and some women didn't like it. While those of us that do really like fashion did, some didn't. And started to not shop as much there. Then as quality dropped, even more stopped shopping. The example is in one of the comments here, when someone criticized her for changing up the JCrew aesthetic. Without realizing that was one of the reasons WHY she got hired and promoted.
Thanks for the deep dive. I didn't really follow J. Crew during their early days. I started to pay attention to them when Jenna Lyons came on the scene. They had A LOT of hype during this time. I was shocked that Jenna was unable to get another high profile job in the fashion industry when her time at J Crew was over.
I would imagine she probably could have quite easily, I wonder if the timing just wasnt right or if she chose to bow out because she likes RHONY so much 🤣
Just made a cup of coffee. Perfect timing! Hope you're having a great day as well
Ah it's perfect! Let me know if you like it :)
In 2005-2006, the Creative Director of Clothing was Everick Brown. He worked on his first collection of clothing & was fired before it reached the stores. He was replaced by Jenna Lyons. She became part of almost all branding in NYC for J. Crew in the subway & posters throughout NYC. I found her focus in the posters insufferable. Everick Brown then went into his own Furniture Store EBHome (which I initially helped with branding).
The book actually goes into this and how he ended up leaving really well. I didnt choose to touch on it for time’s sake 🥰
I've been complaining about the decline in JCrew quality for a decade. I bought a lot of their garments in the 2000s and very early 2010s because they were classic styles and silhouettes often with a twist, like an unusual color. I've never followed trends and I'm willing to spend more on items that will last longer and JCrew no longer fits the bill. For a while, I replaced it with Boden, but that brand seems to have followed JCrew's failing business model. Both switched away from nice wool and classic designs to tons of jersey dresses and disposable t-shirts, essentially disposable fast fashion for a higher price that H&M or Shein. I've taken to thrifting and sewing my own clothes, which is time-consuming. I wish I could find a good JCrew replacement.
Theres a few people offering alternatives in the comments here, but honestly it seems like most people have nowherr to go now, which is really crappy but just shows how big of a gap there is in the market now
I would love if you did a video on Banana Republic someday, I have a soft spot for them. I love your videos!
While I was working for a fashion NGO, J.crew were the few companies that actually donated their excess materials for us to repurpose them and even donated clothes for us to fund for Tsunami victims.
Sad to see them struggle 😔
Oh I didnt know that, thats so kind. And how becoming of them not to shout it from the rooftops
@@understitchYT Ya, back in the 2000's era. Not sure there was a change in management thereafter but had heard about J.crew through our non-profit designer/founder
I think that J Crew are really getting beat up by the return of Banana Republic and Abercrombie and Fitch. AF has targeted a more laidback, casual, younger preppy look very effectively and has successfully made themselves desirable to the early 20’s set again, while BR has gone after the young professional that was formerly J. Crews bread and butter. Their clothes generally use worse fabrics but better construction than J. Crew and undercut them slightly on price. They both adopted the muted and warmer tones of the “old money” aesthetic better than J crew, which always seems to offer very vibrant colors that are difficult to style with many outfits.
Banana republic I have to admit isnt my favourite, I dont think the quality is enough for how repetitive their product lines are. A&F however has been really fascinating in their rebrand
@@understitchYT I agree, their fabrics often include significant polyester blends as well as lots of nylon and elastane. I mostly avoid them. I do think their designs are more modern and curated than J.Crew, however, and I understand the draw.
Banana Republic uses so many cheap fabrics. Many don’t survive a wash .
I love J. Crew's Liberty of London print shirts, I find them on eBay. Other than that I guess I haven't bought anything from J Crew in a while. They were everything back in the day! The supermodels in the catalogues cemented J. Crew's iconic status, for me. Interesting to learn what happened. Great video!
Liberty’s fabrics are just on another level! When I was a kid and learning to sew literally noone in my family knew where to get good fabrics from and I ended up begging for a metre and a half of just anything to make shirts from. They were all terrible because I was 8, but god I loved the fabric. (Also, Im guessing this is why I didnt have many pokemon cards 🤣)
@@understitchYT lol wow it's so good to meet another Liberty fan! I'm a bit of a collector. I have some scarves, shirts, two sets of rather glorious Tana Lawn pajamas... the colors never fade! The fabric never pills, it's so silky smooth. Heaven. Expensive pajamas but so worth it. The detail & quality, about as close to perfect as it's possible to get. It's silly but I feel loved every time I wear anything by Liberty of London 😄😊
I am a huge J. Crew fan. My 3 year old Lhasa Apso is named J. Crew! I still have a lot of catalogs from the mid 2000s. The mid 2000 style was one I desired to have. Jenna had this ability to take basic pieces and make them modern. The women’s pieces started to change a year or two before she left and I remember not liking the J. Crew style as much. I started buying more pieces from Factory. Now, I can’t remember the last time I bought an item from retail. I think it’s been almost two years in December. I think maybe I have bought two shirts in the last three years. The new head of women’s design, Olympia, is not doing any favors to the brand. I hate the current looks - cropped and boxy tops and baggy bottoms. Not for me. I will keep buying from Factory.
I have been buying JCrew for a very long time...I still get shirts and sweaters from them and unique blouses.... I am 76 so by now the pants are not fitting right. But I do want them to succeed again. Fingers crossed. Thank you for this very informative video on their journey.
I loveeee J Crew, I will not stop shopping there. I get clothes for my frequent Caribbean vacations. Amazing finds for the office and casual tees etc for a busy career woman, running errands on a day off ❤❤
No need to stop shopping there if you enjoy it for sure
I agree, and I’m sure I’m not who they have in mind for their target demographic (I’m 59). But they have a huge size range, great styles and their tees are very comfy.
Such a shame, as preppy 80’s style will be trending soon enough and they were the original.
I think its coming back too, Im already buying blazers and ties
So nice to just listen to your voice in this doc and great job overall! 😊👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you so much 🥰
There was a long stretch of time in the late aughts to early-mid 2010s when, without exaggerating, I could say that at least half of my wardrobe came from J. Crew, both for workwear and casual wear. I’m not sure who they’re trying to appeal to now, but I’m definitely no longer their target demographic, because nothing appeals to me. I don’t care if it’s no longer on trend - I would still happily purchase the classic J. Crew preppy style!
Btw, I would love to see a full video on Madewell. Also, while we’re on the topic of classic heritage American labels, pleeeaaaase consider doing a video on Brooks Brothers. That’s another brand that has tragically lost its way, and I still actively miss the Red Fleece line.
Love your videos 🩷💕 They’re the perfect balance of education and entertainment!
Can I ask who youve transitioned onto now? (Also totally agree brooks would make a great video
@@understitchYT I honestly haven’t found another brand that could reliably deliver styles that I liked. I started to buy a lot more workwear from Brooks Brothers, especially after the launch of Red Fleece, but that line seems to have been quietly retired at some time during the earlier part of the pandemic 😭 This also happens to be when I transitioned to work-from-home, so I’ve purchased next to no workwear since 2020.
I should find out if there are any support groups for others going through prep withdrawal - prepaholics anonymous? Even the (very mild) resurgence of neo-prep seems to be mostly limited to menswear, so shopping hasn’t been nearly as fun for a long time.
@@understitchYT I was in that boat as well- I have mostly switched to LL Bean for casual fall and winter wear and Suitsupply for suiting. I also really like Onia and Brooks Brothers and I will occasionally still buy J. Crew for cheap summer casual clothes (especially shorts because they sell a five inch inseam). Thankfully, the old J. Crew items I have have held up well, but the new stuff I doubt will last as long.
Have either of you tried Jack Wills? They used to be amazing quality in the 210s, but I haven’t heard anything of them in years.
@@understitchYT I have not.
Jenna Lyons is a visionary to be sure. Her designs and styling were fresh and exciting. However, I feel that she took J. Crew away from what they have always represented, which is high quality (cotton, wool, cashmere, twill, tweed, oxfords, chinos, loafers etc.) clothing staples that represented a tasteful way of dressing to the more modern ideas that J. Crew came to represent. Personally, I can't afford a $400 herringbone tweed blazer, coat, cashmere sweater or loafers but I still feel that offering quality pieces is the standard for many to aspire to own. I look at Brooks Brothers, LL Bean and Lands End to compare prices of a simple cotton tee or seasonal turtle neck and most of the time J. Crew's price points are higher. With the addition of polyester and other trash fabrics, it's a hard no for a lot of their pieces for me.
I do agree that she took the visions of the company away from what it was originally known for, but that was exactly what she was tasked to do, because they knew that the original aesthetic of the whole thing wasn’t selling anymore
The problem is the price is astronomical and the quality and design is complete sh!t. No one in their right mind would buy that full price, so they rely on the sales. But I also wonder how much inventory is just thrown in the trash bc it’s already disintegrating on the rack. They could have improved the quality and style and have regained a wealthier clientele willing to spend more and a more middle class clientele willing to invest in quality-this, actually, would have been a fantastic differentiator as it’s difficult to find good quality fabrics and construction now even from designer labels-but they had already alienated this entire clientele and was unwilling to win them back. I wonder how much of this is J.Crew’s fault and the shifting market vs how much of this is just internal gouging from the private equity companies that owned them.
Certainly, J.crew is decently to blame because by not having a consistent product quality they lose that reliability that customers can come back for
@@understitchYT when I was in high school/secondary school I went to boarding school and everyone there wore almost exclusively J.Crew. The American WASPs respected it so much because for a period of time the quality was really that fantastic and the style seemingly so classic or at least aiming for timelessness.
This was highly informative! I’ve really been enjoying your videos; thank you. Do you have any insight into what happened with Madewell? It’s been bothering me over the years.
I really don’t, they’re a very American brands, and obviously I’m not American, so off the top of my head I don’t have a lot of information, maybe I’ll make a video in the future though and I can do all the research 🥰
I really loved the brand during the Jenna Lyons years, and even now looking at the runway shows from that era, it all looks so good and fun. Now when I go in there, nothing pulls me in. I leave empty-handed.
Its wild how many people say the same thing. Theyve really lost the trust lf their customer
I worked at J.Crew from Nov 2007 - Nov 2014. I have great memories of my time there. I recognized one of the videos with Mickey Drexler going into the stores, I think we watched it during a meeting 😂. Things were really changing when I left, but I'm so glad I was there for the seven years when it was good!
How lucky have you to have seen it at its absolute height, it must’ve been either extremely fun or extremely stressful to work there
10 years ago I used to buy my son a lot at J.Crew for college. Everything I bought him fell apart within two or three months. The quality is horrible despite other changes in management and CEOs. I grew up in a prep background in Connecticut and I would never ever shop there. They’re done.
Oh no thats awful. The main selling point of prep is the longevity of the clothes 😬
@@understitchYT Exactly. It’s fallen to the ranks of Ann Taylor and Banana Republic. It’s too bad. Remember their J Crew Collection? It was higher quality but too costly for a J Crew product.
I feel Anthropologie is also dying. would love to know their story
Yeah I see that too, such a shame
Oh yeah I completely agree. The last few times I’ve been in I’ve walked out with a candle… and thought huh, something’s wrong here lol
Anthropologie and Free People have really creative designs and appealing stores but their fabrics fall apart and the items have no staying power. I was in J Crew yesterday for the first time in years and i feel as if the design and quality has greatly improved. I have been through several revitalizations of J Crew and hope this is the beginning of a return to their core quality and design.
@@leslie4551 I agree about J Crew! I bought the 2023 version of their lady day coat and was very pleased with it, it feels like a return to the quality of earlier versions, and overall the 2024 selections have been classic, seem quite well made, and the fit/sizing/consistency has really improved. I’m very happy about it because the decline I was seeing was so disappointing and I really had my fingers crossed that they would rally!
I had no idea J.Crew was together with madewell. I just purchased a madewell leather purse from Nordstrom last year, it was my first purchase from the brand. I had read reviews that their leather items were of good quality but also affordable. It has been my everyday bag since I bought it. I’m pretty hard on my bags and it’s still in great shape.
Ive heard good things about the quality, but as far as I know the styles arent the most up to date. Perhaps I could say more reliable evergreen products
@@understitchYT that could be, my bag is a very basic slouchy crossbody. It’s not a structured bag. I was looking for a basic everyday bag and it fit the bill.
Has anyone tried J Crew this Summer season?! Incredible style and quality….have purchased over a dozen pieces and loving them!
Nope, it hasn't been incredible style in years. It looks like every other "luxury" company now. So I haven't bought into it. But if you like them, that's your choice.
Hi J Crew
Highly doubtful she experienced hate for her particular religion in the 80s at an ivy league university. Even more unlikely that she was prohibited from wearing preppy clothes at said University specifically because of her religion.
I worked for Jantzen in 1979-80. They went through a buy-out from Blue Bell (Wrangler) during this time period. Employees had to sell their retirement stock. Previously they had started a marker (pattern) business, making sized markers for other brands like Jones New York. Jantzen also had franchises they supplied with swimwear designs all over the world. The sale to Blue Bell started a further downward slide with a sale to Perry Ellis. They closed the men's and women's sportswear lines. They must have closed their marker making business at some point. They also had knitwear (polo shirt textile) factories in South Carolina. Their garment manufacturing went overseas, as most garment production has gone. They limited design to swimwear. Sales limped along only with swimwear onlne sales and a few other outlets. Jantzen was sold again to Florida based INC along with 30 other brands underneath Perry Ellis International. Production has increased for swimwear sales and they are making more of an effort.
Wow Jantzen was so iconic, I didnt realise their fall was so drawn out, thank you so much
@@understitchYT... it was sad to see it all happen in front of my eyes. I thought everybody saw $ signs (Chairman, Company Board, large stockholders and Blue Bell). Some of Jantzen management was forward looking (my boss, Jim Angell, Project Engineering). He did the computerized marker making implementation. He was also working on the computerized cutting system for the cutting rooms. It did not work well with Lycra swimsuit fabric. It works best on a low number of plies and not stretchy fabrics. Slowly parts of the company were closed...local production in Portland, Vancouver and Hood River. The marker making contract production closed. Men and women's sportswear lines closed. Only women's swimwear lines were left. The Main office and archive, in Portland, is still there. Design offices in Los Angeles and New York are probably closed. INC is based in Miami. There is a better online presence now. I still like their swimwear.
Things that have kept me away from J crew in the last few years. 1) return shipping isn’t free. I need to be able to do free returns by mail. I don’t have a store anywhere close to where I live. 2) the quality has gone downhill a lot. 3) my main reason-prices are still too high and the sales aren’t great. Items are priced too high so even the occasional 40% off full priced items still doesn’t cut it for me. 4) final sale markdowns is something I will not purchase. I considered a linen dress thats on their website now. originally priced at $198, it’s marked down to $177 now, so not that big of a discount and it’s marked final sale. I won’t spend nearly $200 on an item that I don’t know if it’ll fit me and I can’t return. I know final sale items has become the norm for some smaller designers but it’s not the norm for majority of the well known, established online clothing stores. 5) lastly, overall poor style and design.
Hearing all these references of 80s style brings back so many fond memories. Great video ❤
I’m so glad you enjoyed it, and I’m so glad it helped you reminisce
I loved how soft the basic tees were and the color held up great after washing.
I wonder why we find an alternative to that now, unbranded I mean, because the uniqlo ones are really quite thick
i worked at J. Crew the summer of 1999 for a couple of months before going into my senior year of college. i had such a wonderful time working for them. years later i reapplied for a stylist assistant position with the company (Madewell too), but i didn't get it...oh well, their loss.
I’m so glad to hear that you had such a wonderful experience with them, sorry they didn’t see the value in you a second time 🤍
Another brilliant video ! Can you please do a video on Isabel marant , Ferragamo and Givenchy one of these days
I miss the old days of J. Crew.
It was so iconic
After seeing jenna and her classically gorgeous aryle on RHONY I revisited jcrew and i have been pleasantly surprised. Now I'm obsessed like i was in the 1980s. Love!!!!! I'm 51 and rhe sexy quiet luxury is my go to.
So iconic honestly
Thanks for that walk down memory lane, really well done. I started as a part time sales associate in Philadelphia in Women's Classics. We would pull all nighter's doing floor moves and folding every item of clothing before a corporate visit. Aurthur and Emily even came to the store. By the time I left J. Crew about 1998, I was the Store Manager in Raleigh NC. There were some amazing years, a bit of a roller coaster at times, but I met some great people and life long friends. I still have a couple of pieces from Collection...it was my favorite line and the quality was incredible back then. I can't see a Rollneck sweater without flashbacks!
Oh how lucky you were to see the height of JCrew! Are you still in Philly? Im dying to see the Philadelphia Art Museum
@@understitchYT I finally settled down outside of Raleigh after bouncing around opening new J. Crew stores.
5:45 i guessed the other brands but what is the P_ E_ brand on this list?
I haven’t gone back to look, but I would assume it’s Perry Ellis
I love how much research you do. You are wonderful! Would you consider covering Betsey Johnson or Anna Sui?
I genuinely would love to cover both of these brands so much
Wonderful job in lending complete insight from a business, marketing perspective.
Thank you so much
Could you do Paloma Wool? Do you think it deserves a video or is ther still work to do for the brand?
Oh thats actually such a smart idea
So sad to see how hard it is for anything like the original J Crew to compete in the current market. A lower priced “subversive prep” like Miu Miu has shown on the runway would be cool. Having been a fan since their original catalogues came out (and still scouting early J Crew on eBAy), I wish them well.
Honestly these days I doubt youll find quality like old J.Crew even in more luxurious brands tbh, its just not the focus of the market rn, which is a real shame. By and large consumers today have been taught to want the clothes to be considered cool more than wanting them to last a long time. Im sure itll change eventually, but for now that seems to be the market
First, I appreciate how you attribute and recognize your sources. I’m a boomer who was swept up in the preppy craze of the late 70s, when I was in college. I looked to LLBean because of their vast range of size offerings (I’m 6’3” - 190 cm, 185 pounds - 84 kg), price, and air of old-school authenticity. J. Crew seemed too new and inauthentic. I never liked pink and lime green, but I like the comfortable and timeless preppy style, which I still wear in a modified version that isn’t so kitsch.
The book is honestly so good, if youre wanting to read and reminisce more, it was just so good, Ive read it at least twice now
Have you looked at Jack Wills for taller preppy stuff? The Im 5’10 and the clothes were always long on me so maybe its worth a try. I cant speak to their quality now because I just havent been in in years, but in the 2010s the quality was incredible
I’m in UK and stopped shopping with J.Crew when they started to charge stupid money to return online orders.
Free returns has long been very important for online/mail order
I read Maggie Bullock's book on J. Crew last fall. I highly recommend it.
Its brilliant! I messaged her on insta in the hopes she sees this, but no word yet
These videos make my day better!! Thank you ❤❤❤
Im so glad! 🥰
Another day another video from my fav channel ❤
So happy you enjoy them 🥰
Really well edited and thoroughly researched video… great work- thank you!!
So glad you enjoyed it 🥰
love this! rise and fall of zac posen next please
As a teen I moved to the states for uni in the mid-80s so the prep look for this British born prep / conservative style of dress was perfect. Freshman year my peers were wearing blue jeans and I just couldn't do the dungaree thing..... so J.Crew khakis and Oxford's and sweaters were my thing.
I have new lived on three continents but I don't think I've purchased anything J.Crew since the late nineties. At that point I was dissatisfied with the slipping quality of the cloth which was always my first priority. I still have JCrew sweaters that I can wear 30 years later but I see nothing in the stores I would want at this point.
_FYI first time viewer of a video on your channel and I'll consider subscribing! As I'm always a multitasker I definitely appreciate you putting the timeline just in a simple year/date at the bottom left of the screen. I wouldn't be paying attention and you would say something very informative and then I'd look back and instead of having to rewind there was the year that we were covering._
_Incredibly informative. Thank you!_
Its so interesting to me that they clearly knew quality was a huge selling point for them and still on multiple occasions chose to lower it in order to widen profit margins. Really silly bcs it pushes out true preppy customers who help legitimise the company in that space 🤷
Also thank you so much, Im glad you subscribed, we have a great community of people here 🥰
I want to know what happened to: Cache, Lillie Rubin, Casual Corner, Carole Little. All had great clothes for a long time and the quality was just fine. Within maybe a 10 year period they all disappeared.
Noted, thank you 😜
What a surprise - a venture capital firm buys in and suddenly any long-term goals are based on boosting short-term profitability with a total lack on vision or understanding of brand and customers.
Your 1990 slide at 14:10 is a J Crew parody by Spy featuring "gangsta" style :D
I haven't read the book yet, but the history recounted here varies from my own personal experience. I ran a hot advertising agency and was approached by Arthur Cinader to manage a redesign of the company image and look. The story I heard was that Emily, while at college, was bringing home simple "prep" designs her friends were wearing. Arthur gave her some space to launch the new line, piggybacking off of the capabilities of their existing catalog operation. She started quite small and the brand exploded. As for me, the job wasn't really did, but I referred them to someone I knew at Gap, who went in as their creative director.
Oh thats so interesting, was it Mickey Drexler by any chance or someone else? If you have everand the book is available there on the basic subscription. If you do end up reading it please do let me know what you think and if your own history fits because Id love to knwo. Im available here, on email (contact@understitch.co.uk) and on instagram 🤍
@@understitchYT No, it wasn't Mickey. It was just a creative director for the catalog design and ads. Went to the offices in NYC and met Emily. I went to prep school and dressed their style naturally, so I think that was part of my appeal for them. I already "lived" their look. Their interest was very flattering, but not what I did.
How interesting, thank you so much for sharing your perspective, I guess everyone has different lived experiences so that may account for the varied memory of how it all started/happened. I do recommend the book though, esp if it differs from your exp, itd be interesting to see how they differ
A J Crew closed down near me and I walked out with 2 bikinis and 2 pair of jeans for $18 total😳
Oh shame about the closure, but great for the sale!
I am a big J.Crew fan and loved their aesthetic in the mid-2000s. Recently I feel like they sell too much stuff that is too trendy. Of course, they still have the classic pieces, but most of their stuff is trendy. Also, the prices have gone up and the quality has gone down. I still think the quality is better than like H&M but used to better for sure.
Comparing anything to H&M is an easy win 🤣
It was a good brand shopped from there some clothes attach themselves with u❤❤🎉🎉
All clothes that are loved are good clothes 🥰
I liked the classic cuts/fabrics/clothing….as soon as they went bohemian/muffin, they lost their base.
I think they probably could’ve been okay if they responded better to what people wanted at that time, they seem to not understand that people weren’t going to be able to return if they couldn’t find what they wanted
@@understitchYT the bohemian clothes were not what folks wanted….geez! I never stopped looking and just purchased quite a few pieces after looking at this vid.
I took a decade of a break from buying anything from them, came back with my kids and the quality is just horrible...
Isnt it so sad how quality has fallen so badly
@@understitchYT very much so, and the change is so drastic!
I wonder if they still released their paper catalogs, I loved those. It has been a long time since I went to J. Crew, I loved their simple and classic designs. And their quality was good.
It could be a great differentiator today honestly, we are all so desperate for something tangible these days
As a semi young (23) J. Crew consumer, I am always looking for timeless staples in the current fash fashion world. I love J. Crew, I am always complimented when wearing their pieces. I feel like I can build outfits around their designs that will be age appropriate but also trendy. Not trying to say that J. Crew is the place for trendy items (no one my age really shops there) but I think I am able to maintain my style with the help of their basic high quality staples. I hope J. Crew finds their stride ⛵️
Honestly thats so great, thats what so many consumers want; dependability and trust. It can be very hard to find so Im really glad youve found that so early
Having lived through, and eaten up, the j. crew story as it was sold by catalog (rather like novels had been printed chapter by chapter in magazines previously), we looked forward to each new installment and poured over the invented lifestyle, I don't think enough credit goes to the j. peterman catalogs before it. They really mastered weaving insider cool, carefree, classy stories of privilege.
Oh I bet, catalogues were such an era, I remember Argos in England holding on for dear life all up until their reformat
Awww I loved my roll-up sweaters from JCrew in the mid-to-late 90s. Great documentary! Thank you for your hard work.
So glad you liked it 🥰
Still have my original copy of "The Official Preppy Handbook" - Bitsy 😂
Oh Im jealous! I want to see!
I remember my favorite J.Crew staple. A thick wool roll neck sweater with rolled sleeves in grey. I loved the forest green version too. J.Crew was best when their clothes were beautifully crafted minimalist staples with earthy colors. The J.Crew men's store in Soho was a jewel, as good as but less expensive than John Varvatos. I lost interest when J.Crew started to look like the GAP and Banana Republic, using cheap fabrics, generic prints, and garish colors. Incredibly, at 29:42, this image from inside of J.Crew at South Coast Plaza is exactly as I remember it. I was shocked to see that the clothes looked nothing like J.Crew. The label said J.Crew but the clothes were not J.Crew. It was the end of an era. Sadly, I walked out and never looked back.
Updating aesthetics can be tricky, but to alienate the existing audience for a brand that needed that heritage was just silly
Jenna Lyons, I feel, was a deterrent to the brand. I didn't care for her vision of what J Crew became.
Graduated from private college in 1984 but only because my Dad worked there so was primed to be J. Crew customer back then! 😅
Polo shirts and khakis 🤣
The quality of the fabrics has gone down but I still love J. Crew. I hope they bring back velvet blazers for the holidays.
Theyre better than so many even with the dip in quality that theyve had
hello I want to start a TH-cam channel and was wondering what platforms are good for editing videos? I want to make videos with a VoiceOver so I was just wondering. Thanks.
I use final cut pro, but Im no expert
I ordered a few sweaters from J Crew in the 1990s. It was so exciting! And I wore them a lot. The next year, I was in Palm Springs and went to the J Crew at the outlet mall there. It was decidedly less great. There was a lot of junk clothing, unlike in the home catalogue.
Generally the quality of clothes has fallen so much, its so disappointing
As with most brands, mid or high-end, I tend to source our older/vintage pieces. Quality of stuff today, considering the prices have doubled and even tripled in some cases is nowhere near where it should be. Sad.
Worked at J.Crew corporate for five years in the 2010s. You are correct that the storefront image that says 1996 is not from 1996
Love your videos. I learn so much!
That makes me so happy, thank you
Bought 2 mock turtle necks from one of the first catalogues. Incredible quality, had them for about 20 years. Shorts and khakis i bought in the early 2000s were crap.
1st store in South Street Seaport was great
And it’s so hard to find a good knit too
Main lesson: private equity ruins everything
I agree J Crew has faltered. I recently walked into a Banana Republic for the first time in more than a decade and was pleasantly surprised. The quality and styles were much better than in years past... Perhaps even J Crew, once acclaimed, can regain their footing.
I think Brave New Wear had the best idea at the end of teh video where he said they can get a foot in with menswear tbh
These classic “preppy” or “heritage” clothing companies have all downgraded in quality. I wore J Crew, Lands End, and of course Polo Ralph Lauren and Izod Lacoste. These brands have all skimped on quality and increased in price all hoping to rely on their brand name loyalty. I used to wear J Crew khakis back in the mid nineties because they were the best khakis I could buy for the price and they offered cuffed or regular hem. They wore well and they lasted. The khakis they offer now are not well made, are light weight, and cost more.
I wish they’d go back to better quality for a fair price like they did back in the 1990’s through the early 2000’s.
Not sure who wrote the description, but "its" should be used when possessive. So "from its beginnings as a mail-order catalogue, through to its brick and mortar expansion."
I’m illiterate, what can I say?
Loved both the original prep feel & Jenna Lyons phase that has seemed to change but us older millennials are hoping for a revival of past things we loved. If they can't, they may die out.
Have to disagree with much you have to say in the first 5 minutes of your video.
1-mail order catalogs have been around for 100 years before J.Crew selling clothing along with a wide variety of goods. (Sears, Montgomery Ward, JC Penney)
2-Lands End and LL Bean were selling affordable “preppy” clothing long before J.Crew, Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfiger.
Great you commented so I can clear this up. Yes, catalogues did exist before J.Crew, as I said the family even had one called Popular Club Plan which was not the first either, it was just successful. And secondly, I had to google to check, but Lands end was founded in 1967 and LLBean, though founded earlier, at that time were making shoes and outdoor wear, they had a bit of a rebrand to look more preppy around the same time of J.Crew. It seems they werent really selling prep before, but of course I wasnt around between the 40s to 70s to know how well it was adopted by the Yale crowd