I used to make custom speaker enclosures out of sheets of abs. If that works anything like that best approach is to cut your template out and bolt it in on the drivers side so it’s sticking straight up. Then heat it and let it fall into place with little to no coercing. It’s how I used to make angles in the abs sheets.
Next vid comp ? 😀😀 Can't wait, i'm probably as excited as you Taylor 👍 Don't worry that its not wrapped, it is Red,White & Blue which should make a lot of people happy 🙂
Building a Wiring harness is always my favorite part of the build from mockup to looming it when it comes out looking better than factory is like you said so satisfying
My trade is sheet plastic, Vacuum forming, gluing, heat bending and much more. Tip when drilling Plastic sheet, such as Acrylic, Polycarbonate (Lexan is a brand name) grind the drills leading cutting edge so the surface is same angle as the drill shaft. That will reduce risks of cracking from the hole , That prevents the drill 'grabbing' the last bit causing cracks. And also slightly chamfer the hole edges.
the blower fan sucking up tire chunks , can easily be resolved if they carry a turbo guard that small.. may not catch everything and tire residue is not gonna get caught but at the very least large pieces and straps will be stopped/deflected. love the build series, and cant wait to see this car perform!!!
one thing that can help the rear hatch from cracking is to s drill a small pilot hole and drill slightly in front the bottom before drilling all the way from the top. Drill bits also bite in too easily so if you drill at a high speed and put light to little pressure on the drill, it should help from cracking. Any tiny crack will grow over time or all at once so you don't want any around the holes if you can help. It was probably the starting point of that crack.You also might have to bend it slightly into place and leave it for a while and applying heat a few times and bend it a little more and repeat to normalize the bend a little bit at a time.
I genuinely think this could be sema worthy, it’s a work of art that needs showing off 👌 hats off to you both, this build has been the best TH-cam series out there, very informative, I bet many have learned a lot from your videos, I know I have.
An idea for the rear lexan window, i know you're in a time crunch right now, but if you need to do it again and have more time. Maybe try and leave it out in the blazing sun, give it a more uniform heating to prevent stress cracking. I know with epoxy and other plastics when it gets heated up it gets more workable and easier to form into shape.
Honestly take this from someone with 36 years experience working on cars. If you can wire a circuit and understand how it works from input to output it will help you be able to troubleshoot absolutely everything mechanical from cars to industrial. I made an entire career from the experience I got when I got my first car at 14 years old and learning how to install a radio. If you comprehend a circuit you will be able to fix everything. Some people just throw parts at a problem and never even try to understand why what is happening is happening. Always been a fan of Taylor since early LZ days and I'm proud to say I have been a fan since the early days. Dude is potentially going to be a top drift contender. Hope he goes pro at some point
When drilling acrylic try using a 60 degree point drill bit. I run a plastics shop and that works much better than a traditional drill bit. Also maybe try polycarbonate (lexan) it bends without cracking.
If you had an original window, surely you could roll that on the new material and get closer to start with..... And, without sounding daft, surely the coolant radiator gets and sheds air through the opening.... and the fans pull tyre smoke through, which looked pretty cool in testing....
For back window make sure you relieve the flutes on the drill bit so instead of scooping they just push as in flat and basically melt through the material. You can also just spin the drill bit in reverse to help with possible cracking. These are all things I learned after buying a custom $800 windshield for my boat and cracking it during install not knowing these things. To say I was in tears after it cracking would be an understatement
Maybe for the rear window you could build a sort of skeletal brace for the lexan to fit onto, and if there's any local place that has a big walk-in oven get it molded there. Then just bolt the brace to the car. I know it's definitely not simple but seems like it might be less stressful on the lexan.
There's a pretty handly little video on here on how to form your windows. You, as handy as you are, could easily build the "oven" for evenly heating and laying it out. 👌 love the build. Can't wait to see the first comp
Taylor cut your shape out pin it at top and bottom, before doing the sides slowly heat it up and watch it slowly bend down. I would mark it - - - - a 4” to 5” inch channel to give you an idea where to heat it up to bend it remember the tortoise always wins. I know you need it done ASAP sometimes slower is faster man.
Idea for the rear polycarbonate - maybe crazy, but what about using a soldering iron to melt the holes instead of drilling? I can't help but think the drilling (especially if it's already causing small cracks) is creating stress risers. Plus since there's a need for a ton of holes, the material is just begging to crack as soon as it sees high stress. Just a thought. Sick build btw, awesome to see someone building what's honestly a high-end race car with mostly tools an average dude or dudette might have in their garage 👍👍
With poly when drilling use a step drill to make the holes. Dunno why it works but an old guy told me this who works with poly for years. Doesn’t crack the poly like a normal drill bit does.
This car is the definition of garage built and I love it so much. I’m ready to see this car in competition and shredding some tires. Best of luck Taylor
Yo Taylor, create a plug or a negative for the shape you need, cut your poly into a rough shape, lots of indirect heat and then vacuum or pressure, depending on if you're using a positive or a negative mold. You can do what you want to do with that material, but you gotta heat it up more and more uniformly. Also, will help to create some thin fiberglass straps where your fastener line will be to reinforce the material. Put it on the mating face then drill all your holes.
You can use a fiberglass tape and CA glue/superglue if you don't want to do a whole fiberglass and resin layup. Just gotta get enough glue in the fibers to make it a solid strip.
Hey, try to use a propane torch when heating the lexan to bend it. The heat will spread better and warm it up faster. Just don't spend too much time in one spot
An idea for the rear window: you could make it out of three pieces (2 sides and a top piece). So you wouldn't have to bend it out of one piece. You could do old school louvers in the middle, it would look cool and provide enough space for the air to escape
Hell yeah man 2 pieces of aluminum flat stock running from the deck lid to the halo and that will mount all 3 pieces with softer bends to keep the vette shape, then you can frame the vent for the radiator if you want or just leave it an open hole
I use to have to put plexy in farm vehicles years ago the only way I could for sure put holes in was to heat a bolt the size of the hole to cherry red and burn the hole into it. After a little clean up of the hole it always worked without cracking the plastic.
Almost had it! I remember a guy making his race car rear window. After a lot of experimenting (and wasting Lexan) he used 3mm Acrylic instead of Lexan. (Less cracking) And he made his own oven to carefully pre-form it. This after pre-dryng it for ten hours to get the moisture out or it goes bubbly. Not easy!
What I think is cool is that, although you have not had adds before, this was different and I stayed with it and respect it, because of you. The vendor is lucky to have you and you did a great job representing the concept. You are as real as they come and we all know it. Darn if me and mine don't buy some of that stuff. We work out and if you do not EAT you do damage, thats the big take away. I hope some read my comment here, this is real stuff fiends, no kidding. LETS GO !
I've done quite a lot of work with lexan, my advice- if you're going to drill a hole, pilot them in 1/8 (or close), and melt to size with a "one size smaller than desired size" bit run BACKWARDS. Melting the holes will reduce the chances of stress risers that can form cracks. When attempting to form lexan to shape, a heat gun can work, but a mat gas or butane torch will generate the localized heat better. If you're unsure how much heat the plastic will take without blistering, practice on some scrap. And the last bit of advice I've got is instead of worrying about bending the sides, I would support the center (aka the area you don't want bent much) and heat the rest until it falls into place. You are also going to encounter cracking issues when you drill the holes for cooling unless those holes are melted (aka- hole saw backwards) Lexan is a pretty decent material to work with as long as you realize that it doesn't like being cut or drilled (or any method that leaves a "clean", sharp edge), and attempting to bend it at room temp will ALWAYS cause it to crack, it's just a matter of when.
You seem to be describing acrylic(Plexiglass™), not polycarbonate(Lexan™). Lexan is a dream to work with, but scratches easier. Acrylic sucks to work with cracks easily, but it's more scratch resistant.
That lexan you can apply heat until It starts falling into shape on its own. There is a fine line of overheating it however that is the key. Also I tint windows and those corvette windows aren’t as curvy as you think. Attach the top and bottom then heat the sides until the fall into place.
in my experience plexiglass is brittle and will shatter, but i tried to break a piece of Lexan and was unable to make it do anything other than bend, this was in the eighties, and I have not worked with lexan since. Good luck with your endeavors.
When I did my rear end breather/catch can set up the way I understand it the can needs to be at or slightly above the level of the fluid in the diff. With the vent line slightly above fluid level coming in the side from the top of the can. This way if the diff boils over the can will catch it, and be drain able from the bottom of the can. Being the vent line goes above fluid level under all other conditions it will breath through the catch can filter.
Favorite car built by any of the youtube guys because it was all done in a 2 car garage right until the end. Huge respect for this whole project, now I'm dying to see it compete🙌🏻
Can you reverse the blower motors to suck air out of the engine bay, 1 to stop blowing rubber into the bay, and 2 help draw the fresh air your intercooler fans are sucking in. Beautiful car man love this build
Make sure you tape the front and back when you're drilling. I place it onto a block of wood and drill into that instead of free handing it. Also heat the lexan more uniformly when bending it. Good luck
Maybe do the rear lexan with the open center for exhausting the heat? You could do pieces and then you could clear rtv them to seal the pieces.that way the heat from the rad can vent out to atmosphere. Just an idea. Love the content
as a fab guy your struggle to get that bracket tacked at 5:35 made me feel a lot better lol. I have the same press and brake, I need to get much more proficient at using it after seeing you whip up that bracket.
The car is absolutely incredible. Ive watched this build all the way from the very beginning when you first bought the car and couldn't wait to see you get it running and burning some tires with it. Just an amazing built all the way through. Good luck !! I hope you guys kick some a$$ !!
This might not help, but I have a couple suggestions that would help with your rear window: 1) Don’t use a drill with the plastic/lexan/poly. Use an awl or centerpunch, heat it with a torch for each hole and punch it through (or you can drill a small hole and expand it with the awl. 2) for the really sharp bends pre-heat the material, it will keep the stress from forming and causing cracks. Hope at least one of these helps a little. Cheers! 🖖😎👍
Lexan has a pliability temp of 280F and although it's more flexible than hardware store Polycarbonate or Acrylic you should try some "Copolyester" which is the most flexible form with a pliability temp of 250F and better impact strength. Although it's not UV resistant you can use a UV protective clear wrap after drilling your vent holes to keep it from yellowing over the years. *(Heat is you're friend) when working with any Poly and the way you ended up securing the top & bottom then working the sides is the correct way. Next time try a small heater underneath in the back and let it heat up for a while... then use the heat gun up top as well. Also drill the fastener holes oversize for rubber grommets and use thin 1/8 in black neoprene insulation tape in the frame channel prior to final mounting of the window thus helping to prevent any cracking when tossing this beast around the track, which I'm stoked about, good job guys cant wait for KK's!
Instead of trying to form the back window like a hatch car, why not go for the ZO6/ FCR look. Build a "cap" right at the back of the roof line down to the top of the hatch and leave the hole in the hatch open from there back. Would look good and would allow for a larger air exit for the radiators etc.
Old vet window and a heat gun and it works perfectly I have done a lot of Lexan /plastic pvc /Acrylic heat is your friend some time a map gas torch can help just have to have a backer or jig set to the shape
Stoked that you both have built this car so quickly and the car works well. Really hope the Vette is a strong contender for the next round of Klutchkickers. Hope you give it hell lad 💪. Plus I'm really impressed with the build quality of the BC coilovers. As I've just got a set for my Altezza. Can't wait to fire them on 👌.
IMO you should be exhausting the hot air OUT of the engine bay with those inline fans. You don't need more air blowing around randomly(mostly in the opposite direction the car is moving) in the engine bay. Your temps should get lower and you also won't be sucking up tire rubber into the fans!
Taylor Ray I have an idea to make the rear window.....this is something I saw on the show that make custom fish tanks and first you make a metal buck that fits the hole and put wood behind it so it keeps the shape, then heat it up so it's not cold, then heat the plastic and this where you need 2 people and heat resistant gloves, pick up the soft plastic and form over the buck with your hands and while you're holding down on the plastic someone spraying compressed air to cool it down and trim it to fit when cooled down. It's worth a try good luck
Could try spraying water as u drill it works and use a glass or Tile drill bit Diamond tipped and alot more heat to form it hole thing not just sides good luck looking good can't wait to see u win in it
You need a second heat gun, heat it up a lot more. At least you have a good template for a second attempt. The last time that I worked with plexi I even heated it before drilling. That could be overkill, but it worked.
C.A.D & Polycarbonate sheet = Make your pattern from card, cut the sheet, then go to fitting. Polycarbonate is easyto deal with and actually quite forgiving, providing you do not overheat/stress it. Also depends on what thickness you use. Personally? I would say 1.5mm at most for that window...
ive made a few back windows like that. i use alot of heat and i use the factory window to make my shape because i can clamp it to the window till it cools off to hold its shape
You could make the window the Ed Roth way, you make a mould then heat the plastic sheet up with gas burners, in a big coffin like enclosure, then put compressed air in underneath and blow the window shape into the mould. An old rear window might make the mould for you.
You and Josue put together a banger. You’ve done the proper shake downs so good luck with the comp. Representing for all the grassroots out there. Big respect for you guys and what you make happen
Why not see if you can pick up a set of louvers for the rear and just forgo the plexiglass, it would allow all the airflow you need and I think it would look good and you cannot see out the back anyway
I can't wait to see this build go to work, after all the time and effort in the built and test it's time. Also if no one has told you this in a while, I love the very simple outro, Goodbye.
You should have considered the obvious solution for the rear glass and used the old real glass as a shaping jig. A small bit of heat would allow the plex to drape over the glass and take its actual shape. MAYBE NEXT TIME
Try making a cad layout of it so you can get the right cuts first Use a large propane rose bud torch(weed/dandelion burner) at a decent distance with quick movement to not burn.
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
I used to make custom speaker enclosures out of sheets of abs. If that works anything like that best approach is to cut your template out and bolt it in on the drivers side so it’s sticking straight up. Then heat it and let it fall into place with little to no coercing. It’s how I used to make angles in the abs sheets.
I'd also use a soldering iron instead of a drill for the holes.
Next vid comp ? 😀😀 Can't wait, i'm probably as excited as you Taylor 👍 Don't worry that its not wrapped, it is Red,White & Blue which should make a lot of people happy 🙂
Building a Wiring harness is always my favorite part of the build from mockup to looming it when it comes out looking better than factory is like you said so satisfying
Man I saw this thing in the clutch kickers short on TH-cam. Looking good man
My trade is sheet plastic, Vacuum forming, gluing, heat bending and much more. Tip when drilling Plastic sheet, such as Acrylic, Polycarbonate (Lexan is a brand name) grind the drills leading cutting edge so the surface is same angle as the drill shaft. That will reduce risks of cracking from the hole , That prevents the drill 'grabbing' the last bit causing cracks. And also slightly chamfer the hole edges.
Please never stop with The technical mumbo jumbo! That’s one of the great features of the channel! #EnoughJibberJabber
the blower fan sucking up tire chunks , can easily be resolved if they carry a turbo guard that small.. may not catch everything and tire residue is not gonna get caught but at the very least large pieces and straps will be stopped/deflected. love the build series, and cant wait to see this car perform!!!
Or even a pvc drain pipe style screen.
You could clean up the edges of the back window with a flame polish. Experiment on some scrap with a torch, it works quickly.
one thing that can help the rear hatch from cracking is to s
drill a small pilot hole and drill slightly in front the bottom before drilling all the way from the top. Drill bits also bite in too easily so if you drill at a high speed and put light to little pressure on the drill, it should help from cracking. Any tiny crack will grow over time or all at once so you don't want any around the holes if you can help. It was probably the starting point of that crack.You also might have to bend it slightly into place and leave it for a while and applying heat a few times and bend it a little more and repeat to normalize the bend a little bit at a time.
I genuinely think this could be sema worthy, it’s a work of art that needs showing off 👌 hats off to you both, this build has been the best TH-cam series out there, very informative, I bet many have learned a lot from your videos, I know I have.
Use the old glass as a forming template for the lexan. Heat and form it against the glass and then trim.
An idea for the rear lexan window, i know you're in a time crunch right now, but if you need to do it again and have more time.
Maybe try and leave it out in the blazing sun, give it a more uniform heating to prevent stress cracking.
I know with epoxy and other plastics when it gets heated up it gets more workable and easier to form into shape.
Honestly take this from someone with 36 years experience working on cars. If you can wire a circuit and understand how it works from input to output it will help you be able to troubleshoot absolutely everything mechanical from cars to industrial. I made an entire career from the experience I got when I got my first car at 14 years old and learning how to install a radio. If you comprehend a circuit you will be able to fix everything. Some people just throw parts at a problem and never even try to understand why what is happening is happening. Always been a fan of Taylor since early LZ days and I'm proud to say I have been a fan since the early days. Dude is potentially going to be a top drift contender. Hope he goes pro at some point
This car going to be a serious contender with you behind the wheel. So excited to see the video! Good luck Taylor! We are all rooting for you!
You should put a mesh screen over the vent holes like window screen so it cant suck up any tire pieces
When drilling acrylic try using a 60 degree point drill bit. I run a plastics shop and that works much better than a traditional drill bit. Also maybe try polycarbonate (lexan) it bends without cracking.
If you had an original window, surely you could roll that on the new material and get closer to start with.....
And, without sounding daft, surely the coolant radiator gets and sheds air through the opening.... and the fans pull tyre smoke through, which looked pretty cool in testing....
For back window make sure you relieve the flutes on the drill bit so instead of scooping they just push as in flat and basically melt through the material. You can also just spin the drill bit in reverse to help with possible cracking. These are all things I learned after buying a custom $800 windshield for my boat and cracking it during install not knowing these things. To say I was in tears after it cracking would be an understatement
can we just say that Hosway is an absolute homie? love that dudes work really really works as cleanly as taylor does lol
With the way the plastic lens filters out parts of the light spectrum, red LED bulbs would appear brighter than white bulbs for the brake lights.
I really like that little attachment on the heat gun that you used for the heat shrinking.
Maybe for the rear window you could build a sort of skeletal brace for the lexan to fit onto, and if there's any local place that has a big walk-in oven get it molded there. Then just bolt the brace to the car. I know it's definitely not simple but seems like it might be less stressful on the lexan.
Every time a Taylor ray upload pops up , instant like. Thanks 4 sharing Taylor.
There's a pretty handly little video on here on how to form your windows. You, as handy as you are, could easily build the "oven" for evenly heating and laying it out. 👌 love the build. Can't wait to see the first comp
Taylor cut your shape out pin it at top and bottom, before doing the sides slowly heat it up and watch it slowly bend down.
I would mark it - - - - a 4” to 5” inch channel to give you an idea where to heat it up to bend it remember the tortoise always wins. I know you need it done ASAP sometimes slower is faster man.
Idea for the rear polycarbonate - maybe crazy, but what about using a soldering iron to melt the holes instead of drilling? I can't help but think the drilling (especially if it's already causing small cracks) is creating stress risers. Plus since there's a need for a ton of holes, the material is just begging to crack as soon as it sees high stress. Just a thought.
Sick build btw, awesome to see someone building what's honestly a high-end race car with mostly tools an average dude or dudette might have in their garage 👍👍
Use either porch/window screen over the bottom of the fan or some grill cloth to prevent large debris from getting into the fan
With poly when drilling use a step drill to make the holes. Dunno why it works but an old guy told me this who works with poly for years. Doesn’t crack the poly like a normal drill bit does.
To drill lexan or plexiglass, get a small pick/awl, heat it up and melt/poke your holes instead of drilling it works good and wont crack
This car is the definition of garage built and I love it so much. I’m ready to see this car in competition and shredding some tires. Best of luck Taylor
Yo Taylor, create a plug or a negative for the shape you need, cut your poly into a rough shape, lots of indirect heat and then vacuum or pressure, depending on if you're using a positive or a negative mold.
You can do what you want to do with that material, but you gotta heat it up more and more uniformly. Also, will help to create some thin fiberglass straps where your fastener line will be to reinforce the material. Put it on the mating face then drill all your holes.
You can use a fiberglass tape and CA glue/superglue if you don't want to do a whole fiberglass and resin layup. Just gotta get enough glue in the fibers to make it a solid strip.
Hey, try to use a propane torch when heating the lexan to bend it. The heat will spread better and warm it up faster. Just don't spend too much time in one spot
An idea for the rear window: you could make it out of three pieces (2 sides and a top piece). So you wouldn't have to bend it out of one piece.
You could do old school louvers in the middle, it would look cool and provide enough space for the air to escape
I should read comments before I comment myself lol cause I thought the same thing
Louvers 🤢🤮
Hell yeah man 2 pieces of aluminum flat stock running from the deck lid to the halo and that will mount all 3 pieces with softer bends to keep the vette shape, then you can frame the vent for the radiator if you want or just leave it an open hole
I use to have to put plexy in farm vehicles years ago the only way I could for sure put holes in was to heat
a bolt the size of the hole to cherry red and burn the hole into it. After a little clean up of the hole it always worked
without cracking the plastic.
@@blakehudson78 what's wrong with louvres? They look good if they're done right.
Almost had it!
I remember a guy making his race car rear window. After a lot of experimenting (and wasting Lexan) he used 3mm Acrylic instead of Lexan. (Less cracking) And he made his own oven to carefully pre-form it. This after pre-dryng it for ten hours to get the moisture out or it goes bubbly. Not easy!
Maybe try using a hot soldering iron tip to make the holes instead of drilling.
What I think is cool is that, although you have not had adds before, this was different and I stayed with it and respect it, because of you. The vendor is lucky to have you and you did a great job representing the concept. You are as real as they come and we all know it. Darn if me and mine don't buy some of that stuff. We work out and if you do not EAT you do damage, thats the big take away. I hope some read my comment here, this is real stuff fiends, no kidding. LETS GO !
I keep a bunch of those switches in my toolbox. There used all over the place in farm equipment
I've done quite a lot of work with lexan, my advice- if you're going to drill a hole, pilot them in 1/8 (or close), and melt to size with a "one size smaller than desired size" bit run BACKWARDS. Melting the holes will reduce the chances of stress risers that can form cracks.
When attempting to form lexan to shape, a heat gun can work, but a mat gas or butane torch will generate the localized heat better. If you're unsure how much heat the plastic will take without blistering, practice on some scrap.
And the last bit of advice I've got is instead of worrying about bending the sides, I would support the center (aka the area you don't want bent much) and heat the rest until it falls into place.
You are also going to encounter cracking issues when you drill the holes for cooling unless those holes are melted (aka- hole saw backwards)
Lexan is a pretty decent material to work with as long as you realize that it doesn't like being cut or drilled (or any method that leaves a "clean", sharp edge), and attempting to bend it at room temp will ALWAYS cause it to crack, it's just a matter of when.
You seem to be describing acrylic(Plexiglass™), not polycarbonate(Lexan™). Lexan is a dream to work with, but scratches easier. Acrylic sucks to work with cracks easily, but it's more scratch resistant.
That lexan you can apply heat until
It starts falling into shape on its own. There is a fine line of overheating it however that is the key. Also I tint windows and those corvette windows aren’t as curvy as you think. Attach the top and bottom then heat the sides until the fall into place.
in my experience plexiglass is brittle and will shatter, but i tried to break a piece of Lexan and was unable to make it do anything other than bend, this was in the eighties, and I have not worked with lexan since. Good luck with your endeavors.
When I did my rear end breather/catch can set up the way I understand it the can needs to be at or slightly above the level of the fluid in the diff. With the vent line slightly above fluid level coming in the side from the top of the can. This way if the diff boils over the can will catch it, and be drain able from the bottom of the can. Being the vent line goes above fluid level under all other conditions it will breath through the catch can filter.
Looked great in qualifying. Waiting for top 64. You looked super comfortable in the car. 🤙
Favorite car built by any of the youtube guys because it was all done in a 2 car garage right until the end. Huge respect for this whole project, now I'm dying to see it compete🙌🏻
I wish someone would do a versus. Your time lapse vs anyone else haha. You're the king!!!!
Can you reverse the blower motors to suck air out of the engine bay, 1 to stop blowing rubber into the bay, and 2 help draw the fresh air your intercooler fans are sucking in. Beautiful car man love this build
They're already set up to suck air out of the engine bay. They don't blow air into it. Rubber just somehow made it's way into it.
@@gmula1987 I don't think they do
Really hot water will help soften the Lexan for easier installation. Soak trim drill repeat
Make sure you tape the front and back when you're drilling. I place it onto a block of wood and drill into that instead of free handing it. Also heat the lexan more uniformly when bending it. Good luck
Haha, pure gold...this coming out 30mins before top64 starts! Just waiting you to win, then on to round 5 and le mullets!
That's what I call a "Taylor made" drift car. (Also Jose made haha) good job guys 👍
Maybe do the rear lexan with the open center for exhausting the heat? You could do pieces and then you could clear rtv them to seal the pieces.that way the heat from the rad can vent out to atmosphere. Just an idea. Love the content
If you put some pieces of screen (screen door style) over the blower fans, it will help keep debris from damaging the fans.
as a fab guy your struggle to get that bracket tacked at 5:35 made me feel a lot better lol. I have the same press and brake, I need to get much more proficient at using it after seeing you whip up that bracket.
Just saw your qualifying run on the klutch kicker's live stream you looked super comfortable and dialed great job! Good luck in comp tomorrow!
Right on! Looks great can't Waite to see it rip I'll be at a KK event very soon!
The car is absolutely incredible. Ive watched this build all the way from the very beginning when you first bought the car and couldn't wait to see you get it running and burning some tires with it. Just an amazing built all the way through. Good luck !! I hope you guys kick some a$$ !!
Awesome Taylor, hope your first comp will go smoothly.
This might not help, but I have a couple suggestions that would help with your rear window:
1) Don’t use a drill with the plastic/lexan/poly. Use an awl or centerpunch, heat it with a torch for each hole and punch it through (or you can drill a small hole and expand it with the awl.
2) for the really sharp bends pre-heat the material, it will keep the stress from forming and causing cracks.
Hope at least one of these helps a little.
Cheers! 🖖😎👍
I just realized how long this build is going on seeing the engine and heat wrap love the dedication 💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿
Good luck this weekend Taylor!!! Can't wait 4 the next vid... looks as ready as it'll ever be, time to send it!!!
Go fiberglass or carbon fiber for the back lexan. Would look good. Like a Shelby coupe.
You can't see out the back anyways.
I have been the most excited for this out of all builds and I'm so happy to see it being done.
Still so amazed at your attention to detail on this build. It’s really inspirational!
Lexan has a pliability temp of 280F and although it's more flexible than hardware store Polycarbonate or Acrylic you should try some "Copolyester" which is the most flexible form with a pliability temp of 250F and better impact strength. Although it's not UV resistant you can use a UV protective clear wrap after drilling your vent holes to keep it from yellowing over the years. *(Heat is you're friend) when working with any Poly and the way you ended up securing the top & bottom then working the sides is the correct way. Next time try a small heater underneath in the back and let it heat up for a while... then use the heat gun up top as well. Also drill the fastener holes oversize for rubber grommets and use thin 1/8 in black neoprene insulation tape in the frame channel prior to final mounting of the window thus helping to prevent any cracking when tossing this beast around the track, which I'm stoked about, good job guys cant wait for KK's!
Instead of trying to form the back window like a hatch car, why not go for the ZO6/ FCR look. Build a "cap" right at the back of the roof line down to the top of the hatch and leave the hole in the hatch open from there back. Would look good and would allow for a larger air exit for the radiators etc.
Can't wait to see it finally shred! Annnnd hopefully get a wrap job! 🤩✌🏼
Old vet window and a heat gun and it works perfectly I have done a lot of Lexan /plastic pvc /Acrylic heat is your friend some time a map gas torch can help just have to have a backer or jig set to the shape
Its fine, just make as if the red white and blue is on purpose! Very happy and excited to see it compete soon. Later youll get it dialed in! Enjoy!
Was just thinking if he painted the doors white it wouldn't look that bad. Kinda has that 60's LeMans look going.
Taylor could be a decent foley artist judging by the timelapse sound effects! Respect!
Even without the back window the car still looks mean. It just looks even more custom without it 👍
Stoked that you both have built this car so quickly and the car works well.
Really hope the Vette is a strong contender for the next round of Klutchkickers. Hope you give it hell lad 💪.
Plus I'm really impressed with the build quality of the BC coilovers. As I've just got a set for my Altezza. Can't wait to fire them on 👌.
IMO you should be exhausting the hot air OUT of the engine bay with those inline fans. You don't need more air blowing around randomly(mostly in the opposite direction the car is moving) in the engine bay. Your temps should get lower and you also won't be sucking up tire rubber into the fans!
Taylor Ray I have an idea to make the rear window.....this is something I saw on the show that make custom fish tanks and first you make a metal buck that fits the hole and put wood behind it so it keeps the shape, then heat it up so it's not cold, then heat the plastic and this where you need 2 people and heat resistant gloves, pick up the soft plastic and form over the buck with your hands and while you're holding down on the plastic someone spraying compressed air to cool it down and trim it to fit when cooled down. It's worth a try good luck
The switches have a name - PBNC (push button normally closed) or PBNO (push button normally open). The normal state is when no pressure is applied.
I like the bandsaw for polycarbonate work.
Could try spraying water as u drill it works and use a glass or Tile drill bit Diamond tipped and alot more heat to form it hole thing not just sides good luck looking good can't wait to see u win in it
More heat in that back window!!!!! Let the plastic bend for you
Can't wait to see how the car performs on its first race. Goodluck man!!💪
There was a channel live streaming practice. IT RIPPED. Easily kept up ith th big boy pro cars
Been really enjoying watching the progression of the build so inspirational
Awesome video man! I can't wait for the Clutch Kickers video!!
You need a second heat gun, heat it up a lot more. At least you have a good template for a second attempt. The last time that I worked with plexi I even heated it before drilling. That could be overkill, but it worked.
Good luck tomorrow in top 32!!
C.A.D & Polycarbonate sheet = Make your pattern from card, cut the sheet, then go to fitting.
Polycarbonate is easyto deal with and actually quite forgiving, providing you do not overheat/stress it. Also depends on what thickness you use. Personally? I would say 1.5mm at most for that window...
ive made a few back windows like that. i use alot of heat and i use the factory window to make my shape because i can clamp it to the window till it cools off to hold its shape
You could make the window the Ed Roth way, you make a mould then heat the plastic sheet up with gas burners, in a big coffin like enclosure, then put compressed air in underneath and blow the window shape into the mould. An old rear window might make the mould for you.
You should look into louver kits for the rear window.
You and Josue put together a banger. You’ve done the proper shake downs so good luck with the comp. Representing for all the grassroots out there. Big respect for you guys and what you make happen
With the brake switch could make a little cover to keep debris out.
Why not see if you can pick up a set of louvers for the rear and just forgo the plexiglass, it would allow all the airflow you need and I think it would look good and you cannot see out the back anyway
Just saw you at klutch kickers the car looks and sounds amazing
I can't wait to see this build go to work, after all the time and effort in the built and test it's time.
Also if no one has told you this in a while, I love the very simple outro, Goodbye.
I can’t wait to see you win this next
Round
I can’t wait to see how klutch kickers goes. Hope you do well!
Go to Garret and Donie for your jig back window should be same just keep heating till it starts bending over on it’s own
You should have considered the obvious solution for the rear glass and used the old real glass as a shaping jig. A small bit of heat would allow the plex to drape over the glass and take its actual shape.
MAYBE NEXT TIME
We are behind you Taylor. Looking forward to the next comp.
Congrats on making it to the top 32 in Klutch Kickers
A lot of the guys that do Lexan like that take it up to an oven that does anodizing works wonders
Try making a cad layout of it so you can get the right cuts first
Use a large propane rose bud torch(weed/dandelion burner) at a decent distance with quick movement to not burn.
Should make some carbon sheet ducting too direct air through the coolers
Watched your practice at klutchkickers. You're going to kill it man!