Finding The Best Temperature For Your Filament (OrcaSlicer Calibration)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มี.ค. 2024
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In today's video we continue in our series of using OrcaSlicer built in calibration tools to dial in a filament profile. We have already covered flow, and pressure advance so its time for us to dive into temperature tests. For this a fairly standard tower is used, but OrcaSlicer makes it super easy to generate them in a few clicks. Well cover how to set them up, and what you should be looking at!
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Missed the break test on the little peak. At the VERY end after you checked everything else you are supposed to use you finger to apply light force and slowly apply more fore till it breaks, This allows you to kinda test layer adhesion
Thats hilarious. I have been around temp towers/used them in some way shape or form for many years and this is probably the first time ive heard this. Its always been a visual inspection for me. The peaks are not reachable with a finger on this particular tower but you could still push on them with an allen key to see which one is the sturdiest. Now to go snap some peaks.
Came here to say almost the same thing: if multiple temperature results look the same, try breaking the spike and see which takes the most force.
The towers generated by Orca slicer are too small for my fingers though, so I usually use a screwdriver for that.
Granted, everything I do appears to be wrong, but for layer adhesion I actually try breaking the tower at different heights to see what sticks the best.
In my experience, I'm incapable of getting any two redeemable qualities at any one given temperature. I might get decent adhesion but stringing and bridging suck. I might get low stringing but bridging, adhesion, suck. And so on.
I'm fully convinced it's a PEBPAC issue. (Problem Exists Between Printer And Chair)
Its important to keep in mind that temperature settings should be in sync with your extrusion speed. Printing at 210 at 10mms3 flow will yield different results printing at 15-20mms3. The best thing that I have found for me is to tune the temperature based on the max flowrate with no more than 1% under extrusion. I typically print at 210 (mfg recommended setting) and I adjust my printer speed to be right at the edge of the extrusion limit without any under extrusion. This has always yielded excellent results.
This is something I'm still trying to get my head around. I print 95-98% Polymaker filaments and if I were to limit to recommended speeds then printer design likely could have ended years ago as you can't approach anywhere near modern speeds.
I'm greatly appreciating Daniel's series on what most experienced printers just take for granted as there are no definitive guides on the basics in my opinion. Ellis's guide gets a printer dialed in but you can't rerun that guide every time you change a filament. Without being able to identify what you are even seeing it's impossible to go learning solutions.
I'm currently battling a cycle of printing and putting up with disappointing results or just walking away and leaving it alone because I'm tired of watching videos of awesome prints and continuing to get sub-par results myself.
I only learned this when I started to print TPU
The one test I'd like to see the most is a fan test. That's what I have always had the most trouble with. It's easy to see when you have enough fan, but hard to determine when you have too much
Great video as always
Thanks for sharing your expirence with all of us 😀
Good info. Anytime I buy a new type or brand of filament, I print a temp tower and a cube to keep as a reference. It's not quite as important on basic PLA's but having temp tower samples of silks and engineering materials that you can refer back to is really handy.
I started using these fairly recently at the suggestion of someone else; wasn't really sure what I was looking for at first, but I thought I had roughly figured it out. From this video it seems like everything I've bin doing is fine
It's good that OrcaSlicer has included this test in the software. This is nothing new. The exact test has been implemented in SuperSlicer for years. And by having dialed a ton of material. The tower test is the least useful one. Very rarely do I get a useful result out of it. Only if you dramatically go out of the range for the material will you see anything meaningful. And in the case of the material you are using in this example, I would absolutely go as high as possible and not in the middle of the range. Layer adhesion with any filled ABS should printed as high as possible.
Temp towers are great, but I’d love to see a video on exhausting ABS/ASA fumes from some of the common enclosed printers like the QiDi X Max 3 and the X1 Carbon, or even that Q1 Pro. Ducting options/models, inline fans, what effect air coming back in through the vent has on prints.. etc. there are videos out there that cover some of this topic but usually from a custom enclosure or a resin printer etc..
Great video, In Orcaslicer, what’s the best order for the various calibration tests?
I am curious how part cooling affects the temp towers…. Less of an issue with PLA, but with ABS and ASA I’m thinking I have some experiments to do now! Thanks for the inspiration!!!
In your last calibration-related video, you made sure to mention that you recommended calibrating the flow rate before the PA test (though you released the videos in the opposite order). Is the timing of this video intended to be a recommendation that the Temp Tower test be performed after Flow Rate and PA, or is there another point that you think it should be done?
Didn't knew that POM could release such nasty compounds. Back when I was in uni, I use to work as a machinist and had to work with POM now and then. Would have been nice to know...
always found it strange that the tower printed, backwards, in terms of temps. As its much faster (depending on heater) to warm the nozzle up to higher temps, then it is to cool them down.
You mentioned about the change from a shiny finish to matte finish. Does that have a relevance to strength or optimal temperature settings? Or just something that happens within the temp range.
I printed a few of these when I first got started. Couldn't tell an appreciable difference so picked 215 for PLA and ran with it.
Yeah it really depends on the filament. Its hit or miss for me if I will use a temp tower. Alot of times Ill just shoot in the target range and make adjustments based on what I see. I do think they can be really helpful for troubleshooting or when starting out.
Any tips on how to calibrate acceleration?
Input shaper
@@thetigerflyerHow would I do that?
@@netherful you need to be running a firmware that supports input shaper. Then you need an accelerometer (some version of an adxl345) attached to a print head that supports mounting (or a toolhead board with the accelerometer incorporated into it). Connect that to your host (rpi for instance) and run input shaping tests. It will tell you all kinds of info for acceleration, smoothing, etc.
Not a fan of this test as it prints at pretty conservative speeds. If you find your temp on this test, it might not be hot enough for faster, bigger prints, and might lead to weaker parts or even under extrusion.
This was kinda of neutral. I recall doing a temp tower in eSun ABS+ and getting identical results all the way to 280C - including poor layer adhesion. Eventually I gave up and put another filament on, and it was totally different. So IMHO, you should do towers in different plastics and different vendors to help yourself see differences, rather than just analyzing a single tower in isolation.
Thats not a bad idea. I find wildly different behaviors in different filaments. From vendor, to color, some show a large difference while others its almost a guess. In the times I can't find the obvious winner I pick something middle of the range given and run some prints. Usually based on that I can tell whether I should be bumping up or down.
@@ModBotArmy The trick is in getting a feel for the difference between a valid test result and a null test result, and for that you really need to see a valid test result in action. I love the example image out there of z offset where it shows an inch of each of five or six variations from "way too close" to "just right" to "way too high", it's too bad that you can't reliably get that kind of temp-tower difference with different filament formulations.
Haha, that calibration generates models with errors, and fix model is not available outside of Windows it seems.
I never noticed it before so I wonder if its in just the more recent versions. I went to file a bug in github but it looks like someone already did this past week.
@@ModBotArmy seems to be after v1.8.1
Disappointing video for me, I was hoping to get more info compared to the existing orca wiki entry on calibration. While the video did a slightly better job explaining what to look for to get to the right temp, it didn't really help for filaments like the one in the video, where the differences are minute. Also missed the break test, as already commented by others. Basically, this video is a waste of time for anyone who has read the wiki and searched reddit for a few minutes. Which is a pitty, as the little information you do present, you are presenting very well.
Sorry to hear. Temp towers wont always give you the answer your looking for, like we saw with the filament I was testing out. My goal with this series is to stick with the calibration tools available in OrcaSlicer. In cases where I cannot find an obvious winner I will take a guess and run some prints. Based on the results of each of those prints I will decide if tweaks needs to be made by bumping temp up or down in 5C increments.