1999 Lexus RX300 How to replace VVT Variable Valve Timing Solenoid Part 1 of 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2017
- Link to the parts I used amzn.to/2Ixwdcc
If your car is stumbling and dying out and the brakes feel like they are not working sometimes. This fix may solve your problem. Some of the code associated can be P1346 P1349 or P1354 and could even be others. This should apply to many different Lexus models using the 3.3L engine such as the RX400H, RX330, RX300 EX300 and Toyota models such as the Avalon, Sienna, Camry Highlander Solara using the same VVTS system on model years 1999 to 2006 on the 3.0L 2995CC V6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated engine and on the 3.3L 3300CC V6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated engine. I found my replacements on ebay, I think it cost me $35 for both. If you have any questions please post them below, and don't forget to subscribe!
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1999-03 Lexus ES300 Front Bank Variable Valve Timing Solenoid
2004-06 Lexus ES330 Front Bank Variable Valve Timing Solenoid
1999-03 Lexus RX300 Front Bank Variable Valve Timing Solenoid
2004-06 Lexus RX330 Front Bank Variable Valve Timing Solenoid
2006-07 Lexus RX400h Front Bank Variable Valve Timing Solenoid
2000-04 Toyota Avalon Front Bank Variable Valve Timing Solenoid
2004-06 Toyota Camry Front Bank V6 3.3L
2003-06 Toyota Camry Front Bank V6 3.0L
2004-07 Toyota Highlander Front Bank V6 3.3L
2001-03 Toyota Highlander Front Bank V6 3.0L
2000-06 Toyota Sienna Front Bank Variable Valve Timing Solenoid
2004-08 Toyota Solara Front Bank V6 3.3L
Thanks
Joe - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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I know this is an old video but I wanted to thank you. Honestly I was so overwhelmed thinking about replacing the rear vvt solenoid on my rx300 but your detailed video gave me the confidence I needed and now she's back on the road.
Thank you so much. I bought a ‘99 RX300 for my son’s first car. The Harbor Freight OBD scanner and your videos have helped solve a problem and allowed me to help teach my son how to fix his car.
👍 Excellent video. People should also be aware there is a filter/mesh screen located near each (2 total) oil control valve(vvt solinoid) that can clog up due to sludge etc.... I'd recommend using quality synthetic engine oil and changing it and the oil filter every 3,000-5,000 miles....
Thanks Joe I purchased my es on yesterday and symptoms were failing brakes with car studder. I changed coils thinking that was the problem but it wasn't. Saw your video and with your help I was able to fix in about 30 minutes. Purchased both sloenoids from local junkyard for less than $20. Oh yeah the coils were purchased from junkyard as well. Set of 4 for $22.50. I feel as if I gave this car a whole new life!!! Thanks Joe.
I bought both because they were not that expensive. I wasn't sure where the back one was and the video was very helpful with that part. Thanks.
Thanks for your two part videos. I just replaced both oil control valves and wouldn't have attempted it without your demo videos Mahalo from Honolulu! I was getting codes 1349 and 1354 in case that helps anyone else out. I cleared them and the codes haven't come back. The shop I usually take the RX300 for repairs wanted $450 including parts to swap out the two oil control valves.
Thanks I'm glad it was able to help you! Maybe one day I'll make it to the Big Island!
TWO WORDS,
LIFE SAVER!
Thank you so much. My car had a same issue and after watching your video I was able to fix it. Thanks a lot!!!
Just had to replace the VVT in my girlfriends car. This video was extremely helpful!
Thanks to your video I was able to replace my vvt on my rx300.
thanx buddy ,,,when you said brakes lacking i knew it was solenoid ,had diagnostic check and he said could be spark plug or coil or solenoid,i replaced my coils and plugs 3 months ago,,,much appreciated on the replacement course.
I've been trying everything changing spark plugs and coil packs and stupid TPS sensor just to find out the reason my Lexus RX 300 has been driving like shit was the to stupid parts. Great video . Now I can sleep better
Hi John,
Glad I could help!
Thanks
Joe
1999 Lexus RX300 around 160K miles and has been running good for years. Only past issue has been the CEL is on and according to my mechanic, it is caused by blow-by and minute amounts of oil recirculating into the intake. The mechanic preforms the periodic maintenance, resets the codes, but shortly thereafter, the CEL comes back on. The RX has been running great otherwise.
Recently my Lexus started stalling and sometimes the brakes are weak as described in your video. Also at the same time, the OVER DRIVE (OD) gear will not engage (@40 mph, the engine is @2500rpms).
Relative to the stall, it last 1 to several seconds. Lightly pumping the gas pedal helps the engine recover. Relative to the OD, I read that sometimes the computer sees the CEL on and keeps OD off to protect the engine. It has never done that before now.
Trouble started sometime around pulling my 5x10 foot trailer with light furniture, my Lexus is factory equipped for pulling and I have pulled it many times in the past with no issue. Also, during that time, I had to change the starter. No problem. And I really hate to mention it, but a few ounces (and not the whole container) of STP oil additive treatment was poured into the gas tank. Relative to the latter, I read online that the oil would not hurt the engine, but would cause it run rough for a while. Since then, I have burned about 5 tanks of high octane fuel with STP GAS additives. So far, the stalling and break issues persist, so I don't think it is an issues with the oil.
I purchased a Lemur Blue Driver scan tool (recommend) to read the codes and there were several (Bank 1 P1349, P0171, P305, ...). The Lemur can also clear the codes and when I do so, the OD preforms perfectly, for a while, but I still get the stalls. CEL comes back on and OD does not engage.
So I will attempt to replace the Variable Valve Timing Solenoids after the holidays. Any other suggestions (besides being careful what one puts in the gas tank)? Thanks for the videos.
Te Bo this is most definitely your Variable Valve Solenoids, you need to replace them right away as you can severely damage your engine if you let it go. Hope that helps! Thanks
Joe
@@joesnowmobiles , Many thanks for the information. Been driving, and clearing codes, for a couple of weeks trying to get a handle on which one of the, or ones, of the trouble codes to try and work. Will not drive until I get banks 1 and 2 VVSers installed. Your video will be my guide. Hope my RX then goes back to normal. : ). BTW, when I cleaned the MAF, I plugged all the air dam holes, was extremely careful, and still dropped one of the two small screws down the engine, TWICE, into dirt, grass, and sand. And I managed to find them - pucker factor.
Did replacing the vvt fix your problems?
Someone just returned my rx after borrowing it for a month.
It has the EXACT symptoms you are describing here. I really hope the VVT solenoids are the fix I'm looking for 🤞
Sadly, the borrower put 2k miles on the car and I don't know which point these started to fail.
@@devonblaine mine did too and I replaced them. All good now
Thank you, this video saved me a lot of time.
This video was on point and accurate!!
Thank you so much, l from Kazakhstan,Central Asia your videos ara very helped to me!
Giz Tologonov, thanks for your kind comments. I am glad to see that this is helping people all across the globe!
Thanks
Joe
Excellent work. Thank you SO MUCH for sharing. :D
Hi there, I had my front one changed, and now I want to change the rear one. But, its not listed as front and rear, but left and right. Is the rear considered the left or the right?
Thanks
Awesome video! Thank you for the help!
I've watched a few long videos by professionals on problematic VVT solenoids. Mostly those videos emphasize how to prove the diagnosis before replacing parts. They never fail to mention that poor oil quality from inadequate maintenance is a common cause of premature failure. They often don't even go over how to replace them, perhaps because professionals consider it a minor detail. People should bear in mind that if you hire a reputable shop to do this, most of the cost is for diagnostic steps not covered here. On the other hand, as an outsider without a $10,000 Verus, I can understand the motivation to take a chance and fire the parts cannon.
spelunkerd thanks for your observations! Thankfully I have a $200 scanner that is able to diagnose the codes as the VVT solenoids. I agree that poor maintenance can contribute to a failed solenoid, however it is also inevitable that they will probably fail due to age also, my Lexus had about 160k on it when they failed.
Thanks Joe!
What the Verus adds is bidirectional control, which makes complete testing much easier because it allows the tech to prove the problem is in the solenoid rather than the wiring or PCM. As much as I paid for my $1000 scanner, it can't give me bidirectional control (Autoenginuity Pro has been a real disappointment). Top level scanners can also show any disconnect between where the PCM thinks the actuator is and where it actually is. As a work around for most sensors and actuators I can usually prove the wiring is good, and sometimes find a signal from the PCM on a scope. However with the increasing complexity of these signals, complete testing requires equipment and skills that most of us don't have. Of course the other issue is the question as to whether professionals actually do the recommended testing. Flat rate techs do their best to avoid misdiagnoses but their work flow is always aimed at maximizing efficiency. If the solenoid is only $20, some might consider the extra expense for the labor of testing to be inappropriate. On the other hand, aftermarket hardware so often fails, it's usually better to know the original part was bad before moving forward. For people who do this at home, I would keep the labelled old part in a shop drawer, in case it turns out the OEM part was good after all. It sounds like the way these fail is because of sludging oil inside the small hydraulic passageways that drive the actuator, and at least one case I know of was resolved by flushing the oil passage with compressed air. Whether that would be a long term fix is a deeper question....
Thank you for the video.
Perfect!! Thanks!!
The most easy way to remove the front vvt: disconnect the pcv valve hose, then the space is just enough to remove vvt by wiggle wiggle trick
Hey I want to tell you thank you very much for this video help me lot save me money and I learn to thanks man.
I’m having problems disconnecting the electrical on the valve, any tips or recommendations?
I wish I would have seen this video before i replaced bank 2..PHOTOGRAPH everything first..MAPPING.. He's got some great plyers..disconnect the connectors then the bolts.. Mine were very loose, pulled #2 right out..We'll see on #1 as that one just coded on my sons trip down to Tucson
P1153 code on lexus rx300 how to fix?
Did you address the screens?
Good info
What brand parts are recommended? And since replacement is everything still working good? I have a feeling I should replace the VVT and the CamShaft Position Sensor on mine... :-/
I would replace with whatever you can afford, if you can afford the OEM replacement parts those are always recommended. If not look for something with a warranty in case it fails prematurely. I sold the car last year but the parts were still working that I installed. I believe the link is in my description. Hope that helps.
Thanks
Joe
cant find part 2
Can you give me the link for the parts please I will greatly appreciate
Here ya go!
amzn.to/2Akdm1I
If you buy on amazon I will get a small commission.
You can get them on ebay also.
www.ebay.com/itm/L-R-VVT-Variable-Valve-Timing-Solenoid-Valve-for-Lexus-ES300-ES330-RX330-RX350/182768829923?fits=Year%3A1999%7CMake%3ALexus%7CModel%3ARX300&epid=2281172960&hash=item2a8ddf05e3:g:j1EAAOSw3s1aCoHU&vxp=mtr
Which one is left & right?
Hi Peter, they are actually front and back depending on how you look at it. Since the engine is in sideways. They are different though if you look at them, the mounting holes are different. Hope that helps.
Darn I didn't know it was two how do you know which one went bad
RANDOM LIVESTREAMS when you scan it it will tell you which one is bad. I would suggest you change both though while your in there if one has gone bad the other isn’t long to follow and it’s pretty easy to do both. Hope that helps!
Thanks
Joe
joesnowmobiles thank you for the quick response may I ask where did you get your replacement parts and I read the codes and it said variable timing bank 1
RANDOM LIVESTREAMS bank 2 is closest to the radiator bank 1 is closest to the cabin. I bought my parts on eBay I think they were about $30 for both.
I replaced both, about $80 for OEM ones. Worth it, do it once and you dont need to worry about them anymore till next time. If you decide to change only the bad one (and try to test them), that might make the job harder and cost more money. Once you replace the two valves, make sure to clean or replace it filters too. I wonder if valves and filter get replaced, it will help gears shift easier?
Bank 1 VVT will not come out. I was able to change out Bank 2 VVT and Bank1 and 2 filter screens. Having much trouble with the pulling Bank 1 VVT out the engine. Removed the signal cable and the small bolt. At first, the VVT rotate but with some tpping on the bolt eye and applying as much strength as I could, it finally broke free and can be rotate about 180 degrees, until either the bolt eye or plug hits something. Twisting it back and forth while pulling, the VVT did not come out at all. Used a screw driver under the bolt eye tried to pry it up, tapped on the top of it, tried to put oil between the VVT and engine, used vice grips and tired to pull it out while twisting, nothing worked.
So any ideas?
Also the 1998-2005 gs300 🙂
Did this fix the vehicle and about how much did this fix cost
Kadrian Williams yes it did fix it, I think the two valves cost me about $40. Hope that helps!
Joe
joesnowmobiles wherd yoi get um my fiancee truck has the vvt code and a few misfire codes tune up n coil packs still running like crap now its starting to act like it don't wanna start
Kadrian Williams I bought them on eBay they are relatively inexpensive I think $20 each. Just search by year make and model. I would definitely do these and see if it makes an improvement! Hope that helps thanks
Joe
joesnowmobiles i will thanks
My daughter said its knocking to loud to drive. Huh?
wow ever heard of snap-on cordless battery powered ratchets .