How to Fix many GM Truck/SUV Electrical Problems
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ม.ค. 2015
- This fix addresses several electrical issues with Silverado / Sierra, Tahoe / Yukon / Denali / Escalade Trucks and SUV's.
This fixed ABS light, Brake light, Service Brake System Message, Traction Active Message, Traction Control Off light, Chimes constantly dinging and the speedometer / gauges in the cluster jumping.
Try this quick fix before trading in your GMC / Chevy Truck
Subject: Information on Engine Misfire MIL/SES Light Illuminated or Flashing DTC P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308, P0420 or P0430
Models: 1999-2007 Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC Full-Size Pickup and/or Utility Trucks
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L or 6.2L VORTEC GEN III, GEN IV, V-8 Engine (VINs V, C, T, Z, B, 3, M, 0, J, R, U, N, Y, K, 8 -- RPOs LR4, LY2, LM7, L59, L33, LC9, LH6, LMG, LY5, L31, LQ4, LQ9, L76, LY6, L92)
with/without Active Fuel Management™ and E85 Flex Fuel
As a general rule. Any intermittent electrical problem which effects multiple systems usually it’s a ground issue.
True,never knew there was an additional ground on the frame ,left side,across from drivers door
YOU ARE THE MAN !!!!!!! I had same issue when I’d hit a pothole. It would do it once and a while then after time 10 times a day. Got to the point it would stall on a really bad bump. Did exactly what you video said and I’m homefree. Saved me a bunch of money bro !!! Thanks for caring enough to save people from everyday misery.
Glad to help!
TYSVM. My husband was having this same issue while on a job site. started with locks randomly unlocking and locking while driving. then ABS light went on. Then check engine light went on. Today it said reduced engine power vehicle would not drive over 20 mph. he had to coast it into our driveway. Then it wouldn't start. he watched this. found that same problem and fixed it. THANK YOU AGAIN!!!
Love hearing this! So happy I could help
My car is doing the same thing I need help
John, You are the man! Had the same mysterious, intermittent electrical problems you described. I went right to that ground wire on my 05 Tahoe, with 205,000 miles. Sure enough, the wire had been worn through because it was rubbing. Made the fix like you did and fix er right up!! Thanks so much man!
Good to hear it!
Thank you for posting this video, what a HUGE help! My '03 Suburban was driving me nuts until I saw this. My dash's Battery trouble light and Transmission Selector dial always stayed illuminated. After seeing the video, I figured what'd I have to lose by trying this before going to the garage. I replaced the braided ground from hood to firewall and installed another ground (#4 insulated ground by 2 feet long) from the same firewall point, to the alternator mount. I double checked the other connections, I had access to, and BAM....no more issues! I did have to place the battery on a 120v Craftsman charger for a few hours but, other than that, it's all good!
Nicely done John!!! Just went through this issue with my 2003 Tahoe 5.3L. (Hit a bump and ABS, Park Brake, Door locks all start chiming) Followed your instructions and everything works perfect. Thanks for posting you saved me a bunch of cash!!!!
Yep!
You have saved me probably a thousand dollars. Thank you so much!! I can return all the battery leads that the other TH-cam videos told me to replace.
My 99 Silverado was having these issues, radio turning off too, and even wouldn't start, everything would die once I turned the key. Cut the wire and spliced the two wires and added a 10 gauge wire and grounded it where ground strap was grounded. Truck running great and radio even sounds better! Thanks for the video.
Boom! You're welcome, glad it runs again
I can't believe it, for month's my truck has been acting up. Battery light on, abs light on, brake light on, service engine light on hooked up a code reader to it and no codes found. Then the other day my g/f hit a pothole and the dash went nut's. Lights on lights off blower quit blowing. So we came home i got on you tube and found this video, i thought to myself there is no way that wire could be causing all my problems. So i found that wire in the video, i pulled on it and it was tight but i couldn't see it because of the location, i had two wires running to that ground so i cut both then stripped the ends then used a piece of speaker wire, wired it all together and ran it to that ground post. And all be dammed i started the truck and every thing works they way it should. Thank you John you are a life saver.
What year truck you have? I have a 2008 Chevy avalanche and I'm having the same issues but most people mention older trucks. This shit is driving me Looney because nobody wants lights all lit up to make you worry everyday. I think I can handle rerouting the wires, just curious if anyone has a 08 or newer.
Solder or crimp the new connections or it may occur again when the wires in the new connection oxidize.
I've been having a lot of these issues with my '07 Tahoe. I'll go check this out.
Thank you for putting this video up. On my 2003 Chevy Suburban I had been fighting ABS issues and reduce engine power issues for about 1 year now every time I hit a hard bump, I have put in an ABS control unit, one computer under the hood, at the mechanics advice. I have chased the wiring harness, and cleaned the grounds near the ABS computer. But all along it was the paired wire on the back left hand cylinder head on the same bolt as the braided bear cable. Once I spliced into that two wire connection and put it up to the stud on the firewall like you did, I problems have so far been remedied. Wish I could have found this video about 6 months ago and $500 prior! So again, thank you for bringing this to attention, because I probably would have ended up selling this Gremlin ridden vehicle for a bargain instead of fixing it and driving it till the wheels fall off.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the input John, having the same problem and going to check it. If not the problem it's still a good starting point, thanks for posting.
Thanks for listing the codes. As soon as you said high voltage fuel circuit I knew this was probably my issue.
I have an 06 Cadillac Escalade and this was my problem on my vehicle. Just wanna say thank you for pointing out the problem.
This video was a big help to me about 3 or 4 years ago, I meant to post then but never did. Thanks again, this saved me a lot of time.
Thank you for the feedback! I love knowing that it has helped others!
Thanks John! I was experiencing intermittent issues like the ones you've described...
You got it Tech5015!
Thank you! I had the "hit a bump - doors lock, ABS - Service Brakes - Service Engine - door chimes" syndrome on a 2003 Yukon that popped up last fall. I watched your video, barely tugged on that wiring harness and the wire just snapped. Followed your fix and I think I just fixed the problem. Great video.
Chris Blain glad to hear it!
Dude I take my keys out and the seat wants to kill me it’s no fucking joke I am getting tried of it gmc sucks
Just reprogram your automatic seats... there's a driver 1 and 2 button on your door near the lock slide. Put the seat where you want it to stay, and hold down "1" until it's programmed.
I just programmed both to where I wanted them to stay
You need to replace that ground going from the hood to the body. Same issues there. Creates an electromagnetic field that can cause you problems if that breaks
@@sbond1963 stupid question, do I have to buy ground wire? Or can I go to AutoZone and pick up any wire
Thank you so much John I had the same issues with my hummer h2 2004 and now it’s running as it should 🙏
Happy to help!
Just did the same thing to my '04 yukon xl. My wire happened to be covered in yuke probably an oil leak over the years that caused it. I tried cleaning the wire first but then decided rerouting it would be more fun. I used 16g wire because my local box didn't have 18g. Anywho, I put a heat shrink rubber sleave on, spliced the old with some of the new wire and warmed up the sleave. Put everything back together and bam, fired right up. So far no more crazy lights going off on the dash and phone calls from the wife.
BTW, I also disconnected the batter before I cut the ground. Read that somewhere and it kinda made sense to do. Thanks for posting John!
Yessir
I think I have some ground issues as well. Thanks for sharing what you've discovered
My 1993 1500 had a speedometer needle going all crazy flickering all over. Oil pressure doing the same, turned out to be the negative battery screw/bolt had stripped and loosened.
Thanks for the video!
You bet! Glad you straightened it out...
Just used this video to fix a 2003 3500HD with a weird no start problem that occurred while plowing snow here in RI!!! It was the pcm ground behind the pass side of the engine!! Thanks!!!!!
Hi John,
I just wanted to thank you for this easy fix to electrical problems I have had for over a year with my 2004 Silverado! Two mechanics and one automotive electric guy later, I followed your advice and problem solved......amazing!!!
Here is a list of all symptoms that I noticed.
1. ABS warning light would come on and parking brake warning light.
2. Service brake warning message.
3. Severe voltage gauge drop whenever I operate the power windows or the A/C unit above the #2 fan speed setting.
4. Warning chime.
5. If I set the fan speed to number 3, 4 or 5, all gauges would drop to bottom of range or below and all warning lights and chimes would go on.
6. Headlights would never dim during these periods even though the inside lighting would go to almost off.
7. Check engine light would come on during use of power windows and / or with the A/C on 3,4 or 5 fan speed setting.
8. Power windows would go up or down at about half normal speed and sometimes they would just refuse to move either up or down.
9. I don't have a code reader, so I have no idea about how many codes this poor ground might have triggered.
I didn't have all of the problems that you mentioned and that may have been because my existing ground wire wasn't as bad as yours. That connection point at the back of the block wasn't loose either.
A few comments on what I did. One, I followed that ground wire from the harness, down to the back of the engine where it was connected, but I could not see the actual connection and by only feeling it , it felt like it was fine and intact and not loose or frayed at all and it made me think that perhaps this ground wire is not bad or the cause of my electrical problems. I also noticed there was another wire attached at this same point on the back of the engine. I could not tell what type of connection it was as it was not a nut or bolt, so I decided to connect to the wire that you cut and use a a side by side wire quick connect3 splicer to add my new wire to the existing wire without cutting it. My thinking was this would be additive in terms of a good ground and would possibly help the other wire that is connected at the same point on the back of the engine to also achieve a good ground. I used a 16 gauge wire to run over to the ground strap and attached it there with a connector that slides onto that grounding stud and tightened it. For the side by side "quick connector that I tied onto the existing ground wire with, I located it about two inches from where the ground wire came out of the wiring harness and that was about the only place I could put it as there wasn't a lot of extra play in that existing ground wire.
A word of warning: when I was trying to get to the ground wire to attach to it, I put very little pressure on one of the two heater core hoses which is just to the left of the harness that the ground wire comes from and the plastic fitting that the hose attaches to broke off! I thought I was going to have to replace the heater core, but it turned out that Chevy/GM uses a plastic quick connector there and it was this plastic connector that broke off and you could see by looking at the plastic quick connector that had it not broken on me right then, it wouldn't have been long before it would have broken on its own. In any case, I had to watch another video to see how to replace this quick connector which wasn't hard at all. You just have to buy a new quick connector and a special plastic tool set to release the old broken quick connector along with a new hose clamp. This is apparently another common problem with these trucks. After completing that repair, I was able to add in the new ground wire. All of the parts for both repairs came out to under $60!
All of my electrical problems that I was aware of, are now gone! Thank you, again, John!
art thank you, this post made my day!
I've been know to remove those plastic connectors on the heater core and just connect the hose with a hose clamp. But that's a video for another day!
John, that thought crossed my mind when I was looking at that port on the heater core once the quick connector was removed, but then I thought my truck has 185,000 miles on it and that cheap plastic part lasted this long, so maybe it does something to absorb vibration to help isolate and protect the heater core itself as I have seen heater cores go bad at much less mileage than this. The plastic removal tools were 3x the price of the connector itself, but you have to have that to get it off or you have to very carefully try and chew it off with a pair of needle nose pliers without damaging the heater core port......I'd prefer the removal tool any day!
It does seem strange that that little 16 gauge wire can create such a wide range of problems as can be seen by other posts on your video and others. The other wire that connects at the same place on the back of the engine is hard to tell where it goes, but it does seem to be going toward the other side of the engine compartment. I'll have to apply some silicone to seal that electrical connector to help prevent oxidation of the copper wire and keep a good connection over time.
Thank you again, John, this has been bugging me for a year and now it is fixed.....so simply, thanks to you! The two mechanics had no clue what the problem was and the auto electric guy told me he could fix it because that was his specialty! He had no clue either. He told me it was the cluster that was causing the problem and he charged me $285 to supposedly replace it, but when I talked to other people about the cluster, they told me that they doubted he even changed it because my mileage didn't show all zeros, it was still the same as when I dropped it off. I was told that the dealer is the only one who could reset the mileage on a new cluster to where it should be to accurately reflect the true mileage of the vehicle, but I have no idea if that is correct or not? When I took my truck back to him the next day because it still had the same problem, he kept it all day and told me he fixed it, but by the time I got it home, I realized it was still doing the exact same thing. Called him in the morning to tell him that and he said he didn't know what the problem was. I didn't bother taking it back to him.
My next project will be changing the power steering pump as my steering is getting stiff at low rpm and making a groaning noise when turning while backing out of parking spaces or driveways. Once I get going it is fine, but it is just a matter of time before it just quits.
The cluster can be reprogrammed by a dealer but can also be programmed by a tool that most auto techs have access to purchase, I know snap-on sells them. I wouldn't sweat it.
For the power steering, I have had incredible luck with a product called Liqui Moly 20040 ATF additive. I've seen it make hard gearboxes incredibly smooth and quiet as long as they are not damaged! I get it at Napa or, more conveniently, at Amazon amzn.to/2AucGGX - it's worth a shot, pump out the old fluid (turkey baster) and add this product with some fresh ATF. It just may bring it back...
amzn.to/2AucGGX is the shortened Amazon link
I ordered the Liqui Moly 20040 ATF Additive from Amazon today and they said it should arrive Saturday, so I'll try it out. I had thought about trying Marvel Mystery Oil since I already have a bottle, but I'll try the Liqui Moly first. Can I use the Liqui Moly with power steering fluid or does it have to be ATF fluid? Looks like my local Napa doesn't carry it. In any case, I'll post back here to let you know if the Liqui Moly helped with the power steering unit. Thanks again!
art I used it with Pennzoil synthetic power steering fluid and it was fine. It's spec'd for both PS and ATF
Thanks and I have ordered some new ground cables and CRC battery cleaner & protective spray as well. I have CRC 2-26 spray from work that we use a lot of so will just start at battery and work thru each grounding cable or point.
2020 2003 ext Escalade. All the same issues. traction warnings, battery light, all dash fades but head lights and engine are on. LIFE SAVER my man truck works 100% now. I knew it was not my alt or battery or fuses, THNKS !
BOOM! Glad it worked, such an obscure issue.
Hello John thank you for the video been fighting with an 04 sierra random electrical issues and misfires gonna try this tomorrow and see if it helps at all will update you
Man you saved me
I have been messing with this truck 03 Dinali XL stalled on me while driving the start of a battery and the ignition switch all new still no fix battery cable ground and positive still no fix ground strap I relocated to another spot on the black cause I knew I couldn’t get to the bolt so I I just put a new one up no fix I had the top and the right side of the engine cover off but I didn’t take the left side off and as soon as I did and started looking for that wire, it was broken in half you are the man thank you for posting this fix-it video. I appreciate it very much you found my fix. Thank you very very much for posting this.
Man this makes me so happy that it helped!
This just happened to me today, I was trying to figure it out cause when it just went dead, I tapped the battery and it started up. Now I see you video and it makes sense. That wire is close to the batter, so I must have inadvertently hit it as well. Thank u so much.
Yes indeed! Glad to be of service!!
I have an 08 caddy esv. Riding down the highway this vehicle went stir crazy. All the things you mentioned happened. I called every major dealer even called cadillac manufacturer they all claim that they had never heard of this problem. I found that when i would wiggle the negative cable on the battery, everything would go away. I did find a shop in covington ga .Dickerson automotive that had fixed tahoes and several general motors vechicles.they knew about the problem. Thx for the video
Previs Seldon a
Oh my I can not say thanks enough for posting I have Yukon xl 04' I've had issues every bump pothole rock dip in road my engine would shut down come on or go into power reduction mode and my ac compressor went out, fuel pump went out and stability issues because of this one dumb wire I have been looking at every ground wire cleaning them and making sure no breaks and had no clue about this one took 5 min to find and fix after months of going through wires in and around motor. Thanks so much for posting mine wasnt even attached anymore just hanging back there ran it like you did and everything but my stability is fixed I went down old bumpy dirt road and nothing thanks thank thanks a million times. I have 5 kids and it was my only mode transportation......
So glad to hear that it helped 😊
Straight forward video. I had the same warning light come on. Additionally my A/C would work but didn't blow cold air, my power door locks and windows were inoperable, the signal light chime was disabled and the instrument cluster would not light up. The ground wire you mentioned in the video appeared fine from what I could see. I decided to cut it anyways since I couldn't get a good look at the connection. I re-routed it similar to the way you did and to the same ground point as you. All is working great now. To others fixing this same problem, your battery may die depending on how long you wait to address the problem. I waited three days and at some point in between, the battery died. A simple jump start fixed the issue. Many thanks for the video! Keep em coming.
good point - I replaced my battery twice that year, second time it was warrantied but still...
John Burk my 00 suburban gauges is going crazy to every time we have a rain storms or snow storms it just started to happen 2 weeks ago then it fixes it self now it's doing it again I can't see the needle to take it out of park in to drive my gas says it's on E in its not in my temperature on 0 when it's not battery gauge is good fuel pressure gauges good airbag light is on service 4 by 4 light is blinking low fuel light is blinking ABS light is on speedometer is good RPM is good security light is on blinking battery light is blinking I am going to try this next now I just came outside to give this list of things no it now it didn't want to start I had to try 6 time before it started smh
Darrell Stokley sounds like the PCM it's freaking out, could be ground or alternator or even PCM harness
@@jburk21 my 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.8 engine has a problem tha in the mornings it cranks and start but runs a rough idle. Later as the day warms up, it cranks and starts...runs perfect. By the end of the day I try to crank it and starts but run a rough idle. Changed the gas pedal, throttle body 3 times , spark plugs and change oil. It still doe the same thing. Put new grounds with the exception of the ground wire in the back engine and the spiral one. Also, put a new engine coolant temperature sensor and no crank or start but let set for few hours and tried it ...crank only but no start! Going out of head and frustrated!!!!!! Any advice? Thank you from the deep south end of Texas.
Thanks wasted 50$ on a junkyard alternator beofre stumbling along your vid. That wire pulled right off and i changed location and bingo no more issues. Thanks !!
Sweet!
Thanks for the video having the same issues in my 2015 put me deaf on it Thanks again
Thank you man ! Fixing this obscure problem took care of everything !
- Gauge cluster not working including back lighting. Only speedo and tach were working.
- Electric door locks and windows not working. Slow battery drain.
- Battery and abs warning lights were on. Shift indicator light not working.
This fixed all those things and saved me a ton of money. I can't thank you enough.
Good news
Great info! Thanks for sharing this
For anyone with these symptoms, and ABS engaging at low speed, nearly killing you on the street...if you find out it's not your ABS speed sensor or ABS module, and traction light stays on, check if it only happens at night when your HIDs are on. I had a bad ballast causing almost all the issues in this video. It also kept the data link from giving my OBDII bluedriver any data.
Side not--- If you put a new ABS sensor in. The little washer they give isn't a washer it's a shim. If your ABS come on at low speed remove that washer.
On my 2009 Chevy Silverado (approaching 90,000 miles). Since ** I had already been through the business of replacing the brake light switch I decided to contribute the following & for a couple weeks it appeared that it worked. When service traction control, & stabilitrak came back on a few weeks later (wet cold rainy morning) I decided to investigate further. Rather than repeat the mistake of many "filling the switch with anti ox" trying to make the connection "cooler" I decided to look at my chassis grounding. An interesting study, note your battery display voltage before performing the following. ****You'll need a 10mm shallow socket, and an aerosol spray can of contact cleaner *with the little red straw -(I used Ideal brand from Lowe's/Home Depot). You may also want something "gently abrasive" to get the hardened grease off and get back to bare, clean metal (I used fiberglass sheetrock tape, LOL).
Chassis Ground 1) (which seemed to be in proximity to the fuse boxes) was behind (& just inside) the drivers side front tire. Chassis Ground 2) was found further down the drivers side, visible (when clean) between the bed and extended cab - behind & below fueling port. Chassis Ground 3) can be found by following the smaller Negative battery cable. You will end up under the front bumper on the passenger side where 2 cables actually connect to this ground. ** IN EVERY CASE, pull them off, wash them *& where they mount thoroughly with contact cleaner. Be sure to get the little cracks and crevices. These little pits are the first places that will fill with dirt and challenge a good contact. This removes most "nuisance" or meaningless codes. It certainly seems to have worked on mine. GOOD LUCK!!!!!
I have a 08' extended cab silverado. And getting a p0690 code, turns on and off. Have you experienced this with your truck?
On my 1999 gmc Sierra 3500 5.7l vortec...AFTER DISCONNECTING GROUND ON PASSENGER SIDE INNER FENDER (BY BATTERY) AND METAL BRUSHING EM UNTILL NICE N SHINY, TIGHTLY SECURED (over turned a bit to get bare metal to the fresh metal connection) ...WOOO OOOOW! ITS A DIFFERENT ANIMAL! SO MUCH SMOTHER even though i still feel "unnecessary" vibrating, next step- sensors...
THANKS!
Thank you for posting ./my chevy 2007 6 litre 270000 miles is having issues with reduced power .Many many parts have been replaced. numerous trouble codes , tps,pts tac
we found a broken ground and fixed it .,looked OK but broke after pulling on it. Check your grounds .Yes there can be worn out parts. but if you are experiencing on going problems, without the fixing the reduced engine power . .Check these engines for loose and corroded grounds .
Glad to hear that the ground wire fixed it! Common problem.
I've been having so many of these types of problems. Thanks for the video. I'll check this out tomorrow morning.
It's almost as if the truck's computer has been shutting down or giving less power to what it deems as non-essential. Some interior lights, and trailer lights are really dim. And, after driving about 6-7 straight hours, the truck will stall (shut off), particularly if it downshifts. After that happens the cruise control doesn't work, the rear wiper doesn't work, and power mirrors. Then it stalls more frequently.
The next day, everything is fine again.
Your a life saver thank you for this video I was,stumped until I watched this and it fixed my instrument cluster and truck quitting!
I like it. I have some crazy ass behavor just like you mentioned. It was after replacing all 8 injectors. I had to move the harness to the side to acess the fuel rail. I bet its this ground you speak off. Also i have the newer model its set up simalar.
Is that the 07-14 model? Same PCM ground? That is super helpful because I get asked that a lot.
good video and another thing that could be causing all the problems you are describing is a failing body control module. Thanks
Great point!
i had the same problem thanks for the video
You're a movie star!
Dustin Williams long as I point the camera away from my face I can keep it that way ;P
Thank you for posting buddy.
Africa farmers
Thank you so much! I was stumped getting ready to replace my pcm had already replaced ignition switch. watched this video and sure enough that wire was split in two. you saved me a lot of time and money. much obliged.
Glad to help!
I have an 07 that's had the same issues . I'm gonna look in to this. Might just get rid of it and buy a 72 Chevelle and drive it daily .
Make me a deal on the 07 :)
I'm gonna try this tomorrow and if it works I will praise you!!!!!! Thanks for the video!!!!!
Haha nice! Did it work?
John Burk It did! My abs and break light went away and my seat has been in the same position. It was weird how my seat would move on its own. lol Thanks for the video!!!
@@jburk21 was it making your battery die after a couple of days without starting like a parasitic draw? I'm going to check this out first thing tomorrow morning on my 05 GMC Sierra 1500, I've replaced the alternator and battery recently, Luckily they were both still under warranty so I've only been out the Price of a serpentine belt, but still having the issue and hope to finally have it fixed tomorrow by doing this!
Did it work???
@@Irish4u2nv did it work?
GM Engineer - "Let's see, where should I connect this ground wire? I can connect to the chassis, at that nice clean ground bolt, or I can connect to that hot greasy engine, at its aft most location, making it impossible for a human being to reach. And use a cheap unreinforced connector to make sure it breaks off prematurely". GM Hires only the smartest engineers.
Lol and it's the PCM ground, at that... Brilliant. 🙄
🤟
@jburk21 can this make my ac clutch not engage?
Omg yes!!
thank you for the video i got these problems i gona check it
Thanks John!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for the vid bro
Cleaning this connection seems to have fixed my "reduced engine power" p1516 and 01518 intermittent problem. Did this AFTER spending $600 on other things.
dig it
2005 Tahoe. If the interior ever goes dead, follow the parking brake release cable and you may find it leaning against a black box in a galvanized bracket. Move the cable away and everything will work again.
Thanks for this tip!
I have seen a car after engine change where they didn't hook up the engine grounds.The throttle cable instantly became red hot and smoked when the battery was hooked up.Time for new throttle cable!
Yes sir, that power still needs to go to ground somewhere to complete the circuit.
THANKS BROTHER, HEADED OUT TO POP THE HOOD NOW!! WILL LET YOU KNOW WHAT THE RESULT IS!
Did it works?
Man you've been out there for 4 months???
Should we call and file a missing person report 🤷🤷 or he got it fixed and fled the country 🤣
@@EpilepsyWarning 😭😭😭😭
Quick update. He popped the hood, fixed the truck, went to the corner store for a pack of cigarettes and never came back.
Same problem on my 03 Silverado 3/4 ton had P1518 and an abs Christmas tree along with reduced engine power, replaced throttle body, gas pedal didn’t fix. Then after reading more figured out it was the two grounds behind the heads and my engine ground strap was frayed bad, replaced the grounds with new crimp ends all codes and lights gone along with reduced engine power.
Thanks for posting this... I've had sporadic door ajar indicator, 4wd service light, back door not unlocking, and now my truck keeps kicking into low power. I hope this is my problem.
was this your problem?
Been having this problem exactly. I'll try and see if it works.
Didn't help.
You just saved my new to me 2004 YUKON DENALI HERE IN 2019 lol
Check engine. ABS. Traction control. Air bag passenger.
Ok know the fun 😆 stopped shifting just kind of when and ware ever it felt like it
O and the really nice gauges in the dashboard just some times would just not move at all although occasionally I'll just driving down the road nothing special it would turn on unexpectedly sometimes the lights would be on gauges not working after X no lights and no gauges this one wire fixed it all also it is a 6. 0 motor not sure that makes that much difference
Awesome!
This was the exact same thing on my Tahoe I appreciate this video it was a life saver !
Hey what about dem COWBOYS?
Who DAT??!!
@@jburk21 heard they found a cure for 19...wear a cowboy jersey and you never catch it...lol lol lol.
Wery helpfull THX
Thank lots of help
Thank you 🙏🙏🙏🙏
I have a 2002 Suburban Z71. Occasionally my abs/brake light comes on (maybe my front speed sensors need cleaned). I looked for this wire, but can't find anything like it in the position of the loom that you show. All that is there in that location is a two wire lead to my oil pressure switch. Thoughts?
I have a black and black/white wire, do i ground the black only or do I ground both the black and black/white wire?
I'll have to check it out. I have an 04 silverado 2500 and the blower motor will shut off tripping the abs light, check engine light (shift solenoid B code), service brake system and service 4x4.
Outside of that the 05 seems to be charging and running good in this cooler weather. The low power surge also seems to get lower after my engine has been drove warm. Please help Sir!
Gonna see if it will fix my "reduced engine power" on my 05 Silverado SS in the morning. Replaced everything the codes said and still doing it. Driving me nuts!!!
Did it fix your problem? I replaced a lot of things as well but I'm still getting reduced engine power!
So I have a 2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV and am experiencing all sorts of electrical issues as well. Both brake lights work but don’t turn on when I brake, only the left one which didn’t work last week when I switched out my after market lights for other after market lights. Also the left blinker works now but doesn’t flash in the back and when I turn on the right blinker, the left brake light flashes. Also when I brake, the right blinker light turns on without flashing. I switched out the LR Park and it would burn out immediately when used.
Any suggestions?
MY 2012 Silverado has almost all of these same problems for 2 years now. It only has 60K miles on it, it looks fantastic on the outside but has a little too much rust underneath considering such a youthful truck. The truck has sat for the last 3 months because of all these weird electrical issues. The severity changes from day to day. The worst is the constantly dead 3 year old battery. The dealer thought he found the problem, he blamed a wheel sensor near the rear axle and replaced it, but the problems came back after just 2 weeks. I'm going to try to do your fix on it this weekend before I start replacing other things. If I can't fix it correctly I'm going to replace the truck with a less rusty truck. Thanks.
Figured anything?
Did this fix work?
On the 2012 series of GM trucks, the battery ground cable is usually the culprit. Look at the point it attaches to the battery, if you can see bare wires showing coming out of the terminal, (doesn't have to be much, not supposed to be any at all) there's your problem.
New battery...new cables...so far so good ..thanks guys
John Burk is this the 5.3 Vortec engine? I have an 05 GMC Sierra with very similar problems.
Well .. i have got two blk/wht wires in that place were loosin together so i grounded them both .. so are they both grounds ??
Please reply ASAP
hey thanks for this video my instrument panel kept going off and on over bumps yesterday I felt around took the panel out moved wires and it didn't work then I moved wires in the hood and after shaking the wires I found where it was coming from I just yanked the black wires with white stripes and pulled it out and gambled and just twisted them together and it worked and everything is working great ...but it's not grounded to anything I just tied the wires together and taped them with electrical tape but IDK if it's fine to leave it that way should I ground them to a bolt or will it be fine to just keep it the way it is thank you hopefully someone can answer me
HilBill Doll I would ground them to avoid future problems, but you may be okay
Did u take it off the back of the block or did you run it from the back of the block to the firewall
Thank you. 👍
You are welcome!
My 03 Yukon Denali is in the shop right now because of electrical problem I’m having the truck works fine but engine light came on service ride control came on and some times my dome light works and doesn’t also when it rains my truck dies out like once I drive it for a while and then try to start it back up and nothing I thought it was the fuel pump and I changed it and still nothing and truck has power any suggestions are welcome thank you
Would that work on my 96 2500?? I got flickering lights and all kinds of crazy shit going on
I have a 03 suburban that keeps giving me the maf code and the rpm would jump and a few times shut off. I replaced the maf but the code kept coming up for bank 1. I'm gonna check this wire and see if it's the culprit. My bf has a 03 Yukon thats doing the same to him so his wire is gettin checked to. Only difference between mine and his is my engine,abs,break and air bag light goes on and off. His truck only did it once when we had a cold snap
what kind of wire do i need to use for reroute? any specific gauge or material/brand that you recommend?
ku62jo62 I used 18ga wire
Bcm recall. Bad ground should have some corrosion on neg battery terminal.
Don't forget the one to the hood as well after a certain model year. I'm not sure of the 1st year.
Thanks for mentioning that!
I have a 2004 Silverado 2500hd if I start the truck at night time the headlights came on and the truck runs rough (Engine power reduced) if I disconnect the battery negative post and start the truck during day time without using the turns signal, hazard or lights it runs great. I’m out of ideas. Any suggestions. Thank you
Were the fues that go to the secondary information center
OK, spot on that ground was broke. so yes and you put me right on it thanks. this is the info. we look for. like hey dude. this. is a comon issue check this ground wire, its probally broke. and it was. did not fix issue but when youre chasing grounds youre chasing grounds. got to start somewhere and you got to fix em all...
mine is odd, the fuel pump relay get hot and the stalls the truck at any speed. Im not sure what is causing this but thanks for the video I am gonna check the ground
This is happening to my 14 Silverado. Dashboard going crazy, door chime all the lights come on and off I’ve tried just about everything. I’m gonna try to mess around in there and see if I can find this wire
When you had this issue, did your gauges ever just all freeze? Seems like I’m having ground issues as well. Glad I found this.
Yes, they would jump around sporadically and freeze up. So much erratic behavior.
Is that why my radio and my odometer keeps cutting off? Causing the PRND TO NOT BE SEEN ON THE DASH ALSO
i have a 2002 suburban , and iv lookt all around the place but i cant find the dam cable .... donk know how i will fix it :/
Voltage drops when i put into gear the voltage drops and have to hold the throttle tested ithe alternator with a multimeter and its only output 8. Something volts getting it tested tomorrow and possibly a new one other then that idk i checked most of the grounds
Has anyone had this same issue on a 2009 Tahoe or newer ?
Trying to see if that wire in same location, I have a 09 Tahoe ....thanks
So my abs windows wipers have no power on a gmc savanna with the 4.3 in it which ground is it
Hi
Thanks for the video
I just one question where the other wire ending is connected to
PCM Wiring harness.
Worked like a wonder just pulled on it lightly and snapped right off the ground I was hoping I didn't have to replace that body control module my tail light are still messed up tho I'll hit the breaks and my 4 ways will light up on the dash
Josh Baliko sounds like a short...
Would this work for my 2003 yukon xl? We have spent a ton of money fixing things trying to see why our yukon would go into low power mode. They think they got it taken care of at the shop they replaced a few wire harness but anyway the Yukon would go into low power mode make that dinging sound engine light come on and all that. I couldn’t drive it more the 10-20 miles an hour then it would eventually stall and die. It has done this every summer when the weather gets really hot. I think we will keep any eye out for this and see if this issue comes up even after all the work done. Thank you!
Autumn Fauver yes, it would, this was a 2003 Yukon in the video
Couldn't see exactly where the wire came out of the harness. Also, what if the truck has two wires running there instead of the one wire set up that you have?
Regardless, thanks for taking time to make this valuable, informative, video for us.
I had same 2 wires, hence question/problem - found somewhere else on internet someone asked same question and was told just cut both instead of unbolting. Then, connect each wire together with extension wires/couplers grommets and added rings ( which connect to the driver side ground ). In summary, instead of single you're adding those two separate wires to driver side ground. My entire cluster was down. I had bought a new cluster to no avail and was also ready to change fuel pump. The rest is history...got my truck back !! whooot whooot. Although sometimes can seemingly be your worst nightmare...you gotta love the internet. Thanks John !
This ground wire true for 2009 Avalanche? I am having this problem intermittently and you described it to a T!
PCM Ground on 09 Avy should be at the front of the Passenger Side head next to the '243' stamp.
I have a 03 Tahoe with 175,000 on dash some doors won’t unlock the trunk doesn’t open ac blows low abs on also the engine doesn’t turn off then I turn the key off I have to take one of the battery terminals off and tap the alternator to cut the car off could this be the solution