Just checked this wire on my 07 classic Silverado, No pinch but the connection to frame was corroded and loose. Man!! Thank you! This saved me! I had the intermittent door locking unlocking stutter then a slew of codes pop up with the check engine. Powertrain, O2 sensor heaters, misfire codes, and more. This fixed it all. I went ahead and checked the other frame grounds, Fusebox positive connections, battery post connections and the alternator connections. Reset the codes and Nothing abnormal has happened since! Running strong! ❤
I think I might be having the same issue. Can you please what it was doing for them to say it needs a transmission? Was it struggling to accelerate on 1st,2nd and 3rd? Almost like the E-Brake is on
Definitely about to change my negative wire on my 08 Sierra this will be very helpful thank you! I've been having the same issues where I'll be driving 75mph and then the electrical will wack out. It's a fun time. I had already cleaned off a lot of corrosion on the cylinder head end of the wire, but it's still happening. I checked with a multimeter, was only showing 4V across that wire.
@slow_restoration Where did u get the red wire that goes from the mega fuse to the fuse box ive searched everywhere if u have a part number please let me know🙏🙏🙏
Dude.. thank god for you. Hours of videos to remember how my fuse is supposed to look like on the battery. I disassembled whole thing to replace alternator and forgot to take a photo.
I been waiting on a video like this i did my 2013 Cadillac Escalade ESV luxury today and My My Ground wire was just like yours and it was in the same Spot I think when they built them trucks and a lot of them was done like that
On that note, if everything goes dead in your car but it runs fine, follow the parking brake release cable to see if it is leaning against a small black box and pushing it to the left. If pulling it away lets everything come back on, then relocate the cable.
Thanks for sharing this I was having electrical issues with my 09” Cadillac Escalade with lights flickering changed the negative wire and no more problems
Y 2010 Sierra went from working perfectly to no start-no crank. It would start with a booster pack and stay running but had several weird electrical issues. I put a load test on the battery with the vehicle running and it instantly shut off. A new battery solved the problem.
GM discontinued the negative battery cable. You have to go with aftermarket and its not made as well. The posts all said the negative clamp was installed backwards and they are correct. I'm not gonna change out till I do more troubleshooting
Man this is just crazy. Absolute crack addict design. My cable looked IDENTICAL to yours with all the same problems. Surly I can’t be smarter than the engineers who designed this junk
I just got done doing that same on my 2013 Cadillac Escalade ESV luxury I think it was done when they built the truck that wire cost me a $130.00 at the dealer ship no parts place had it
Man omg I really hope this is my issue! Just checked that smaller ground connected to the battery and it and another wire is smashed in that bushing. I’m getting turnovers in on position my itself. How did you get the wires out?
Would this cause the interior lights from working. Mine has come on like 2 times this year, and after i turn it off and next time going somewhere, they won't go on when i open the door to get in. Other time it would work thru a couple off on cycles. But i have the 04 Envoy
My 2009 Suburban constantly loses power, won't open or close the doors electrically or start the engine, it literally goes dead. So when I move the red cable that comes out of the battery all the electricity comes back. Is this problem due to a false contact of the cable? Should I change it?
Little by little having more electrical problems. I didn’t use the cruise control often but I noticed about a month earlier that I had to try a few times before it would turn on, then a couple of weeks after that I noticed that the engine didn’t turn spontaneously when I turned the key. Just slightly sluggish. This happened a few times. Then we replaced its fuel pump because it had a hole in the top of it. The Tahoe drove home from the garage fine but since then it has had issues with starting. Sometimes it will chug chug and the next time it will start without a hitch and then the next time it wont start. Now a week later the remote stopped working the door locks. Can anyone figure that out. Could it be that negative battery cord?
Hey good afternoon I just came across your video I'm having the same problem with my 2009 Denali the lights flicker the door locks unlocked unlock unlock up and down and sometime when I come out I have to push the positive battery cable for it to start where are you located at
2013 GMC Yukon service charging station comes on then cuts off in like 30 seconds or less sometimes parked sometimes on the go, could this be the same problem ? I replaced the battery about 6 months ago
To sum up the whole video and every GM repair video, before buying any parts for dash lights. It’s Canbus controlled- •Check and clean all ground straps bolt points •clean the 175amp in line fuse on the fire wall •replace the engine to fire wall ground strap if it’s green and crunchy •remove the fuse box, inspect for corrosion on pins and plugs- spray heavily with contact cleaner. Fuse box is notorious for internal corrosion causing false codes. Fuse box is not universal, match to tag code, 07-08 has a relay for the fuel pump, 09+ does not. Mismatching will cause a no start no crank.
Thanks... I was about to check my ground against firewall. I noticed was a lil green last week but felt sturdy. Haven't checked voltage drop. I've changed my negative from battery b4 with a gm part. I checked voltage drop for the one going to the head and is hood but I still get a no start sometimes and radio & dash lights go out intermittently while driving. Gonna check the strap by the master cylinder for sure and cable going to frame in front from battery.
I got a 2007 suburban and I'm having no crank no start but have power inside. I did the 30 min relearn and it started again but had a Christmas tree dash so I unhooked battery and reset ecu and no back to no crank.
Please tell us what's the status with your truck. I'm having nothing but issues with mine for the past eight months it's crazy but pretty much destroyed my life and my business. Tomorrow I'm changing the starter again and crankshaft position sensor directly above it. That doesn't solve the issue Wally percent I'm going to do everything that was done in this video asap. Good luck to you 🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼
@@bizzlefashizle Yes I got a new starter because it was under warranty and I change the crankshaft position sensor. I believe that's what was causing the starter to go bad also I don't know if that was the last starter or the one that I had put on six months before hand but they broke the wiring harness clip so it was kind of just dangling there and not a secure connection. Everybody sucks at their job. I also disconnected every ground and wire brush them. It's been perfect ever since 🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼
Wow looks like GM does nothing well. I bought an old 2007 Tahoe as a project, and it turned into a nightmare. I have the gear selector does not show what gear it is in, the transmission will not shift out of third, limp mode is on, check engine, traction control, brakes lights are all on, the rear power gate will not open and sometimes it hesitates to start.
@@slow_restorationI think as long as the smashed section isn't broken it ironically just adds another ground point. I would bet on the fuse box or positive cable with its sketchy connector as fixing the problem.
Here's a test to everyone's electrical knowledge. 2005 Tahoe. New battery. Starter is good. Turn the key and everything comes on, but the starter doesn't turn over. Try connecting a wire from the 87 pin on the relay to the positive on the battery with the key in the run position and nothing. Tried it for hours. Put the key in the on position and tried to straighten the wheel but it wouldn't turn, and I tried it one more time and it started right up. Parked it with a straight wheel, shut it off but it wouldn't turn over. Wiggled the wheel and it still wouldn't turn over. The ground at the back of the engine "Feels" tight but couldn't climb back there to check for sure. Anybody experience something like this?
Mine is sitting in the driveway right now, won't start. It has had a long crank I guess they call it for about six months even after replacing the starter. I did not replace the starter myself, the shop replaced it without talking to me. Still the long crank. So I just pulled the starter replace it under warranty and directly above the starter is the crankshaft position sensor. I'm replacing that also. 110 mm bolt and it is like $52 AC Delco AutoZone. I've had so many issues with my truck in the past year has actually completely destroyed my world. If it doesn't fix my truck completely even if it does actually I'm probably going to do everything you see in this video just to be safe and prevent future issues from destroying my life for a second time lol I'll let you know what happens tomorrow and you do the same please 🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼
@@c_mac7773 Update. This may not help you, but this was my problem. I kept thinking an entire system was grounding out. Long story "short", the parking brake release cable was pressing against a black box and pushing it to the left which killed everything. Not the BCM. When I made a left turn, the box and cable would swing to the right, back into position and everything would come back on. Moved the cable and it never happened again. Everybody thinks, "Gounds" but there is more to look for before that. Last Saturday the starter started acting up. Drove around stopping and going places. Then it wouldn't turn over. After three hours of searching and trying it, I gave it one more try and it started right up. Got home and wouldn't restart after an hour of trying. Next morning, started right up. Took it straight to the shop where they installed a no name starter and it turned over like a screaming little girl or a ripping sheet. They will replace that one with an AC Delco on Monday. Now there's the new problem that has cropped up since the electrical problem. P0420 code. Cat efficiency low. After Chevron fuel system cleaner, Chevron injector cleaner and Cataclean, it still comes on. Today, a gallon of Lacquer Thinner in a half tank of gas and drive it almost dry then refill it. 17-year-old cats must be dirty.
Hey Dann I got a question for you on yhe fuse you replace I see a stud looks like a positive stud can I run a positive wire from this stud to the life wire to the Alternator please let me know and again thank you for your help
Just checked this wire on my 07 classic Silverado, No pinch but the connection to frame was corroded and loose. Man!! Thank you! This saved me! I had the intermittent door locking unlocking stutter then a slew of codes pop up with the check engine. Powertrain, O2 sensor heaters, misfire codes, and more. This fixed it all. I went ahead and checked the other frame grounds, Fusebox positive connections, battery post connections and the alternator connections. Reset the codes and Nothing abnormal has happened since! Running strong! ❤
Nice! Sounds like it's going to be a problem on the GMT 900's Glad you got it fixed!
About to do this right now! I'll post back if it works
Any idea which one was bad?
Thank you Sir ❤❤❤❤❤ spent $480 for the dealership to tell me they didn’t know what was wrong and they told me to just buy a new transmission from them
I think I might be having the same issue.
Can you please what it was doing for them to say it needs a transmission?
Was it struggling to accelerate on 1st,2nd and 3rd? Almost like the E-Brake is on
Definitely about to change my negative wire on my 08 Sierra this will be very helpful thank you! I've been having the same issues where I'll be driving 75mph and then the electrical will wack out. It's a fun time. I had already cleaned off a lot of corrosion on the cylinder head end of the wire, but it's still happening. I checked with a multimeter, was only showing 4V across that wire.
The most detailed and informative video for the electrical system and prone issues with a vehicle with higher mileage.
Thanks!
@slow_restoration Where did u get the red wire that goes from the mega fuse to the fuse box ive searched everywhere if u have a part number please let me know🙏🙏🙏
@@NORCALPYRO_ Amazon has them but most of the time a delco dealer because I also put new ones on
Just had a motor mount replaced and developed electrical issues...going to check this now!!!! thank you
Was that the issue
You figure out what it was?
Thanks that was a nice thorough video. I'm having some electrical issues in my 2009 GMC Sierra and so far I haven't found it. The hunt continues.
Drivers side to the frame is a ground that's always terrible right under drivers side door
Under driver side door?
Can you be more specific please?@@antisocialjusticewarrior2073
Dude.. thank god for you. Hours of videos to remember how my fuse is supposed to look like on the battery. I disassembled whole thing to replace alternator and forgot to take a photo.
Immensely helpful. Thank you. The ground wire attached to the frame was a dousy but your video made locating it, easier.
Glad it helped
Not too hard of an electrical issue to fix. Your great with details! Be nice to see you get the truck in the shop! Be a nice build to follow!
Thanks 👍
I been waiting on a video like this i did my 2013 Cadillac Escalade ESV luxury today and My My Ground wire was just like yours and it was in the same Spot I think when they built them trucks and a lot of them was done like that
@@ethenisme wat issues did yours have
On that note, if everything goes dead in your car but it runs fine, follow the parking brake release cable to see if it is leaning against a small black box and pushing it to the left. If pulling it away lets everything come back on, then relocate the cable.
Thanks for sharing this I was having electrical issues with my 09” Cadillac Escalade with lights flickering changed the negative wire and no more problems
Y 2010 Sierra went from working perfectly to no start-no crank. It would start with a booster pack and stay running but had several weird electrical issues. I put a load test on the battery with the vehicle running and it instantly shut off. A new battery solved the problem.
I might have not showed that, but the battery condition should always be the first check.
I have a 2006 chevy express and I had weird start problems and the gauges on the dash going haywire, it was a kinked negative battery cable as well.
Very good and detailed video, helped us out and saved us some cash and that’s always a good thing in these precarious days!!!
Wow 👏!! Great video !!! I have been having the same issue. I will try all this when I go home
Very clear and concise, strait to the point and great video thank-you !
Thank you very much. Love the simplicity and very informative.. keep marking GM videos..
Good evening Sir.. where did you order the Fuse replacement block from??? I have a 2007 Chevy Avalanche and I need to replace mines
JUST A FYI: take rings off when working around batteries. I had a gold band melt to the bone before, no fun.
Is there any way we can get a parts # and where to find them for all the parts used in this video
Replace negative cable(run frame ground to metal dash),check ignition switch
This explains a lot. My 2011 does this consistently with locks and keeps saying rear access door open and it’s closed. Ever bump I go over it flickers
Can you post a part number or something? I’m having trouble finding the right cables for the battery
I'd like part number information as well
GM discontinued the negative battery cable. You have to go with aftermarket and its not made as well. The posts all said the negative clamp was installed backwards and they are correct. I'm not gonna change out till I do more troubleshooting
But this is factory info...OEM# 22846471
very nice video. wonder the dangling ground wire was it on the head or on the lower bumper area? and wonder what it is ground wire for?
Man this is just crazy. Absolute crack addict design. My cable looked IDENTICAL to yours with all the same problems. Surly I can’t be smarter than the engineers who designed this junk
Did your car have prior engine work? Or you don’t know?
@@travisussery258 no idea really
I just got done doing that same on my 2013 Cadillac Escalade ESV luxury I think it was done when they built the truck that wire cost me a $130.00 at the dealer ship no parts place had it
Interesting, I wonder how many have the same problem!
Is the problem fixed now?
Where or what link did you purchase the new fuse box from?
Great tutorial. Pretty simple main electrical supply replacement
Man omg I really hope this is my issue! Just checked that smaller ground connected to the battery and it and another wire is smashed in that bushing. I’m getting turnovers in on position my itself. How did you get the wires out?
Would this cause the interior lights from working. Mine has come on like 2 times this year, and after i turn it off and next time going somewhere, they won't go on when i open the door to get in. Other time it would work thru a couple off on cycles. But i have the 04 Envoy
Where did u get the red wire that goes from the mega fuse to the fuse box ive searched everywhere if u have a part number please let me know🙏🙏🙏
Did you just have to unhook the plastic on the bottom?
I’ve got door lock cycling for the first 5 mins after driving. Seems like a bad connection somewhere or a short in the bcm?
My 2009 Suburban constantly loses power, won't open or close the doors electrically or start the engine, it literally goes dead. So when I move the red cable that comes out of the battery all the electricity comes back. Is this problem due to a false contact of the cable? Should I change it?
I would definitely check there first!
Same here
Little by little having more electrical problems. I didn’t use the cruise control often but I noticed about a month earlier that I had to try a few times before it would turn on, then a couple of weeks after that I noticed that the engine didn’t turn spontaneously when I turned the key. Just slightly sluggish. This happened a few times. Then we replaced its fuel pump because it had a hole in the top of it. The Tahoe drove home from the garage fine but since then it has had issues with starting. Sometimes it will chug chug and the next time it will start without a hitch and then the next time it wont start. Now a week later the remote stopped working the door locks. Can anyone figure that out. Could it be that negative battery cord?
I would definitely say yes... most common problem with these yrs on these vehicles
I change my fog light since a while and i start to have electric issues battery gose dead i will check thats out
Hey good afternoon I just came across your video I'm having the same problem with my 2009 Denali the lights flicker the door locks unlocked unlock unlock up and down and sometime when I come out I have to push the positive battery cable for it to start where are you located at
2013 GMC Yukon service charging station comes on then cuts off in like 30 seconds or less sometimes parked sometimes on the go, could this be the same problem ? I replaced the battery about 6 months ago
Very well done and greatly appreciated!
I have a 2009 Silverado - it's having the same issues. Where are you located? I'm on the road traveling.
What was it?
Excellent detail on the video
Thank you!
My truck starts but my windows don’t go up and my lift gate will not open. Not getting no power to the fuse box located on the inside of truck.
Did you figure out what was wrong?
I’m having the same issue but my driver turn signal won’t work either, it’s driving me crazy
Where did you get the new fuse box from?
Gm parts direct
This help me out of all the other videos
Question about the voltage sensor on the ground cable, Is that replaceable?
Good question 🙋♂️
I believe it is, but the whole cable is pretty cheap. Might save yourself some time later by replacing the whole thing.
@@slow_restoration thanks for the response, i ended up getting the cable by itself and was able to use the original sensor.
@@MRRAY84 it is called a voltage current sensor
My problem is fuse 60 keeps blown widow on the passenger side will not go down help me it's been like this for yrs
This video seems very helpful I hope this fix my problem
awesome find
To sum up the whole video and every GM repair video, before buying any parts for dash lights.
It’s Canbus controlled-
•Check and clean all ground straps bolt points
•clean the 175amp in line fuse on the fire wall
•replace the engine to fire wall ground strap if it’s green and crunchy
•remove the fuse box, inspect for corrosion on pins and plugs- spray heavily with contact cleaner.
Fuse box is notorious for internal corrosion causing false codes. Fuse box is not universal, match to tag code, 07-08 has a relay for the fuel pump, 09+ does not. Mismatching will cause a no start no crank.
Thanks... I was about to check my ground against firewall. I noticed was a lil green last week but felt sturdy. Haven't checked voltage drop. I've changed my negative from battery b4 with a gm part. I checked voltage drop for the one going to the head and is hood but I still get a no start sometimes and radio & dash lights go out intermittently while driving. Gonna check the strap by the master cylinder for sure and cable going to frame in front from battery.
Mine is a 2008 yukon...
Gonna check fuse box first. Probably easiest
And of course the 175 Amp fuse
Good info...
Thanks. That was 2 things I wasn't gonna check bcuz thinking was good.
Was your check engine light on when you were having issues?
It was not. But doesn't mean it couldn't have come on if it persisted.
Mine never has.... but if u put on a scanner it pulled up about 30 pending codes.
What is the harness called! Needing to buy one not sure what would be the specifics on it
Harness? What harness? It's a ground wire..
Excellent you doing good job
Would this cause the service battery charging system?
Possibly.
I got a 2007 suburban and I'm having no crank no start but have power inside. I did the 30 min relearn and it started again but had a Christmas tree dash so I unhooked battery and reset ecu and no back to no crank.
Please tell us what's the status with your truck. I'm having nothing but issues with mine for the past eight months it's crazy but pretty much destroyed my life and my business. Tomorrow I'm changing the starter again and crankshaft position sensor directly above it. That doesn't solve the issue Wally percent I'm going to do everything that was done in this video asap. Good luck to you
🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼
@@c_mac7773 Did you get it fixed?
@@bizzlefashizle Yes I got a new starter because it was under warranty and I change the crankshaft position sensor. I believe that's what was causing the starter to go bad also I don't know if that was the last starter or the one that I had put on six months before hand but they broke the wiring harness clip so it was kind of just dangling there and not a secure connection. Everybody sucks at their job. I also disconnected every ground and wire brush them. It's been perfect ever since
🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼
Great video Danny
Thanks for watching!
Good video, thanks.
what is the red cable called that's against the fire wall ?
It's the main power feed to the fuse box.
Very helpful. Gracias 🙏
Thank you.
Part #?
Cool to see
Wow looks like GM does nothing well. I bought an old 2007 Tahoe as a project, and it turned into a nightmare. I have the gear selector does not show what gear it is in, the transmission will not shift out of third, limp mode is on, check engine, traction control, brakes lights are all on, the rear power gate will not open and sometimes it hesitates to start.
grounds
Dog gone have some EXPLOSIVE SHIT
This was awesome! Ty!
Any time! Thanks
Great video!
Thanks for the visit
Where can a buy neg an pos wires?
Gmdirect.com
@@slow_restorationI know negative is discontinued. Have to go aftermarket
I’m confused on how a pinched ground wire can cause problems?
Inconsistent grounding. The wire was almost smashed in two. Also the power side had issues.
@@slow_restorationI think as long as the smashed section isn't broken it ironically just adds another ground point. I would bet on the fuse box or positive cable with its sketchy connector as fixing the problem.
The ground wire on my 2008 Tahoe is pinched in the same spot.
Interesting! I wonder if it's a coincidence or a problem?
@@slow_restorationstarting to sound like a problem from the assembly line
i have a electrical short form the cigarette lighter
Why would you put a fuse on the battery? Just make the new cars the same way Honda and Toyota made them in the 90s... Jesus Christ!!
Probably to keep from having a fire or battery exploding if ever touched ground..
grounds
Here's a test to everyone's electrical knowledge. 2005 Tahoe. New battery. Starter is good.
Turn the key and everything comes on, but the starter doesn't turn over.
Try connecting a wire from the 87 pin on the relay to the positive on the battery with the key in the run position and nothing. Tried it for hours.
Put the key in the on position and tried to straighten the wheel but it wouldn't turn, and I tried it one more time and it started right up.
Parked it with a straight wheel, shut it off but it wouldn't turn over. Wiggled the wheel and it still wouldn't turn over.
The ground at the back of the engine "Feels" tight but couldn't climb back there to check for sure.
Anybody experience something like this?
Mine is sitting in the driveway right now, won't start. It has had a long crank I guess they call it for about six months even after replacing the starter. I did not replace the starter myself, the shop replaced it without talking to me. Still the long crank. So I just pulled the starter replace it under warranty and directly above the starter is the crankshaft position sensor. I'm replacing that also. 110 mm bolt and it is like $52 AC Delco AutoZone. I've had so many issues with my truck in the past year has actually completely destroyed my world. If it doesn't fix my truck completely even if it does actually I'm probably going to do everything you see in this video just to be safe and prevent future issues from destroying my life for a second time lol I'll let you know what happens tomorrow and you do the same please
🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼
@@c_mac7773 Update. This may not help you, but this was my problem. I kept thinking an entire system was grounding out. Long story "short", the parking brake release cable was pressing against a black box and pushing it to the left which killed everything. Not the BCM. When I made a left turn, the box and cable would swing to the right, back into position and everything would come back on. Moved the cable and it never happened again. Everybody thinks, "Gounds" but there is more to look for before that.
Last Saturday the starter started acting up. Drove around stopping and going places. Then it wouldn't turn over. After three hours of searching and trying it, I gave it one more try and it started right up. Got home and wouldn't restart after an hour of trying. Next morning, started right up. Took it straight to the shop where they installed a no name starter and it turned over like a screaming little girl or a ripping sheet. They will replace that one with an AC Delco on Monday.
Now there's the new problem that has cropped up since the electrical problem. P0420 code. Cat efficiency low. After Chevron fuel system cleaner, Chevron injector cleaner and Cataclean, it still comes on. Today, a gallon of Lacquer Thinner in a half tank of gas and drive it almost dry then refill it. 17-year-old cats must be dirty.
@@JB91710Thanks for updating. IMO that is truly what helps the most in troubleshooting. Other people's updates.
STFD
this guy leaves out critical info on removing the fuse block. Don't give this idiot any credit. You'll see when you try to do the work.
Wow! What critical information was that?
@@slow_restorationmaybe disconnecting the ground first?
But most should know that if your attempting this kind of repair on your vehicle
Am having the same issue with my 09 tahoe thank you for your vedio
Hey Dann I got a question for you on yhe fuse you replace I see a stud looks like a positive stud can I run a positive wire from this stud to the life wire to the Alternator please let me know and again thank you for your help
Great and helpful video