Question. Has the need to have the tool fit imperial heads caused any compromise in design? I ask because here in England we only work on cars with metric fasteners (unless they are 60+ years old. And that's a specialist thing) Been looking to buy a set of this type of tool to avoid drilling and heat. Assuming you do international postage
It's been my experience that these type extractors don't work very well due to the fact that the reason why the bolt broke off in the first place is it was seized in the hole to begin with... it usually requires way more than a simple extraction tool to get out the broken bolt/stud if you're lucky... drilling and a torch come to mind... 😩😩😩 .
Agreed, I have had very limited success with the "male style" extractors from various companies.. often they break off in the broken fastener and then you really have a bad day:-(
Little tip, there is this chemical called Freeze-Off. It causes the bolt to shrink and makes space for the penetrant to work through. I removed several seized bolts from my 95 Integra's rear lower control arms.
Start with a rounded bolt, break off the bolt using the rounded bolt extractor sockets. Then go to the male style and break the bit off.. now your really in a jam thinking you should have drilled and re tapped the threads to begin with.
Wow, that first set sure looked a lot like an Irwin kit. Does Eastwood Company have a factory, or do they relabel stuff? Either way those are nice tools.
Eastwood should stick to welders, after all that is the best broken bolt extraction technique of them all. Faster, easier in most cases and more reliable with the option of a “re-try” if first attempt fails…”in most cases”
@@MiguelAyala550 we had to cut them off and then drill them both out we did not have good drill bits and it took a couple weeks doing it here and there when we had time. I know there are better drill bits and tools that would get that out but we just couldn't afford it
Also these are very good at what they do. Make sure to get correct specs. Remember hardness equals brittle....... Very strong but...... The bolt he tapped the bolt extractor onto imo was to small, the extractor was more than half way on then tapped with hammer. Use a extractor that just fits, just. And CANNOT BE PUSHED ON MORE THAN HALF WAY. You wanna be hammer that sucker on. And then the instant you turn the socket it will bite in, making less possibility of chewing the bolt head further into a rounded head. Used correctly these work great. Usually the quality is what let's them down but people do still make things that actually they were meant for, doing it very well. Like drill bits. Metal wood masonry? Umpteen types for metal, why! I've bought many drill bits and spent along time realising these are crap! Doing nothing. A it of research and hey presto. For not alot more. And forever lasting and better in every way....... COBALT DRILL BITS. Enuf. Said. Already. 😅😅😅😅😅😅
I'll give the bolt extractor a go on cylinder head bolt. Then straight to the cobalt drill bits, Punch it. Drill it 6mm, then 10mm. 20mm depth. Lift head. Pipe wrench the stud out.
no thanks already bought all these back in the 90's from sears as craftsman which have a lifetime warranty. have only broken 1 screw extractor the 3/8" which seems to be the common size bolt to always break with 5/16" the second worst offender.
My dilemma right now. I have one head bolt rounded. Torque bolt. So I have my easy outs. My welder, and my drill to hand. Brutal If stripping the mess of an engine isnt enough!!! Afterwards gotta put it all back together, all 7thousand bolts nuts washers. Pipes, wires, plugs......
These are junk. Use a left handed drill bit, start small and move up. The every size bit up you go will pull on the bolt more, and removing mass from the center will release more tension from the threads. These quite literally squeeze the bolt and apply more pressure on the threads.
Hello quick question I have a Honda Ridgeline I'm trying to remove the ignition key assembly and on the steering column there are two rounded heads that online they suggest you use a chisel and a hammer to remove them but tapping them backing them out but I wanted to know if your tool would work on them
We're not familiar with that specific application - if its threaded the same way as a normal bolt it should work, if they're pressed or something this wouldn't help you.
I was looking for tips/ ideas. Nooooo ,I found a sales pitch video..thanks eastwood
it's a good sales vid though
I mean, other than the 2 I broke these worked great to remove 12 other rusted bolts lol so I'm not upset at this sales pitch
@jorikarjalainen Why don't you marry the sales vid, why don't cha?
@@jorikarjalainen😁
Question. Has the need to have the tool fit imperial heads caused any compromise in design?
I ask because here in England we only work on cars with metric fasteners (unless they are 60+ years old. And that's a specialist thing)
Been looking to buy a set of this type of tool to avoid drilling and heat.
Assuming you do international postage
1:48 is 1:48
It's been my experience that these type extractors don't work very well due to the fact that the reason why the bolt broke off in the first place is it was seized in the hole to begin with... it usually requires way more than a simple extraction tool to get out the broken bolt/stud if you're lucky... drilling and a torch come to mind... 😩😩😩
.
Agreed, I have had very limited success with the "male style" extractors from various companies.. often they break off in the broken fastener and then you really have a bad day:-(
@@matthewshambler2644Agreed that they don’t work very well. However when they are what will work and they break…that’s user error.
Little tip, there is this chemical called Freeze-Off. It causes the bolt to shrink and makes space for the penetrant to work through. I removed several seized bolts from my 95 Integra's rear lower control arms.
I used the bolt extractor and it worked fine. Problem now is removing the bolt from the extractor.
One time use thing, hopefully 😂
You should be able to clamp the extracted bolt into a vice and use your tap handle to unscrew the extractor
Great AD for a tool, but in my experience, that has never successfully worked as advertised.
For me the bolt extractor made matters worse as the extractor snapped off inside the bolt....very hard steel to drill out.
use heat first if you can,
You use the included punch to punch out the bolt, just like the video said.
Plug weld a nut to the broken bolt. Put a socket on it. Remove it.
It would be great if you could make an affordable bolt induction heat removal tool. Thought you folks had one, but must have been mistaken.
Yeah these don’t work in real world scenarios
You didn't show how to use the dam screw extractor. I waited the whole video for that and you skipped past the whole thing. 🤦♂️
I have that same escort in mint condition😂. Love that car
Start with a rounded bolt, break off the bolt using the rounded bolt extractor sockets. Then go to the male style and break the bit off.. now your really in a jam thinking you should have drilled and re tapped the threads to begin with.
Wow, that first set sure looked a lot like an Irwin kit. Does Eastwood Company have a factory, or do they relabel stuff? Either way those are nice tools.
Eastwood should stick to welders, after all that is the best broken bolt extraction technique of them all. Faster, easier in most cases and more reliable with the option of a “re-try” if first attempt fails…”in most cases”
Cars in Phoenix don't rust. Thank you
Idiotic
@@ua7pyro591 why is that? I have never had a classic rust out in Phoenix. NEVER!
is this an advert was looking for guidance not a sales pitch
It's a product video showing you how to complete the task using our tool.
Bullshit! These things rarely work. Most of the time they just round off the bolt completely.
Well we tried to remove control arm on older Honda Civic and broke one bolt inside and rounded the other one so I believe I need this kit
What did you end up doing to get it out
@@MiguelAyala550 we had to cut them off and then drill them both out we did not have good drill bits and it took a couple weeks doing it here and there when we had time. I know there are better drill bits and tools that would get that out but we just couldn't afford it
Cobalt drill bits only.....
Also these are very good at what they do.
Make sure to get correct specs.
Remember hardness equals brittle....... Very strong but......
The bolt he tapped the bolt extractor onto imo was to small, the extractor was more than half way on then tapped with hammer.
Use a extractor that just fits, just. And CANNOT BE PUSHED ON MORE THAN HALF WAY.
You wanna be hammer that sucker on.
And then the instant you turn the socket it will bite in, making less possibility of chewing the bolt head further into a rounded head.
Used correctly these work great.
Usually the quality is what let's them down but people do still make things that actually they were meant for, doing it very well.
Like drill bits.
Metal wood masonry?
Umpteen types for metal, why!
I've bought many drill bits and spent along time realising these are crap! Doing nothing.
A it of research and hey presto.
For not alot more. And forever lasting and better in every way....... COBALT DRILL BITS.
Enuf. Said. Already. 😅😅😅😅😅😅
Heat it it will fall out
I'll give the bolt extractor a go on cylinder head bolt.
Then straight to the cobalt drill bits,
Punch it. Drill it 6mm, then 10mm.
20mm depth.
Lift head.
Pipe wrench the stud out.
I just melt off broken bolts
Can't be stuck if it's a liquid.
Wow I was trying to learn how use the screw extractors.....All i got was a sales porch and a description thanksbgor nothing
Thank you for the conversion!
no thanks already bought all these back in the 90's from sears as craftsman which have a lifetime warranty. have only broken 1 screw extractor the 3/8" which seems to be the common size bolt to always break with 5/16" the second worst offender.
Lol, just sales. Sorry Eastwood. I won't be buying.
Great commercial when does the real video start?
My screw extractor bit broke when I was trying to remove it. Now I have to remove that too! Any suggestions ?
Go to a black smith he'll help. also a tip always apply grease to your bolts it will save your time and money
Will the se work on bolts with head sheared off, like a cylinder stud ?
bro come on man u havee not linked the video bro
What about a stud that has 80lbs of torque on it?
My dilemma right now. I have one head bolt rounded. Torque bolt. So I have my easy outs. My welder, and my drill to hand.
Brutal
If stripping the mess of an engine isnt enough!!!
Afterwards gotta put it all back together, all 7thousand bolts nuts washers. Pipes, wires, plugs......
Why the item could not be shipped
It's currently out of stock.
Talk too much
What a waste
Nice how too ? 👎
Thanks!!!
You bet!
-JD
#waste of time
Weren’t u at American muscle before 😂
Will that kit on a broken bolt on a header on the 5.3 v8
no thats the only one it wont work on
@@bill-nj6fc yo 💀💀💀
I have rounded bolt on head cylinder 2.0 cdti. 😟
These are junk. Use a left handed drill bit, start small and move up. The every size bit up you go will pull on the bolt more, and removing mass from the center will release more tension from the threads.
These quite literally squeeze the bolt and apply more pressure on the threads.
wow ... americans can count in millimeters
We can also add fractions.... can you 😆😆
Hello quick question I have a Honda Ridgeline I'm trying to remove the ignition key assembly and on the steering column there are two rounded heads that online they suggest you use a chisel and a hammer to remove them but tapping them backing them out but I wanted to know if your tool would work on them
We're not familiar with that specific application - if its threaded the same way as a normal bolt it should work, if they're pressed or something this wouldn't help you.
thanks for not showing it working