Screw extractor | easyout | broken bolt removal
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Get screw extractors here fave.co/1LU8x19
Screw extractors are often called easyouts, these can be used to remove a broken bolt or a broken stud from a tapped hole. Here we demonstrate how to use the screw extractor to remove a broken bolt from a shaft. Brought to you by www.ultimatehan...
Great video. I just bought a set of these extractors which also came with a set of matching drill bits. However there were no instructions and so - being a complete novice to this - I wasn't quite sure how I was supposed to use this properly. Your video made it very clear. Thanks!
Man, I could kiss ya! 9 year old video and still works perfectly. Using your video, I extracted a broken bolt out of the skid plate frame on my dirt bike. It was a nearly irreplaceable part. Thank you so much! Let me know if you want the pic. I am pretty proud of it considering it was my first try ever.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you for this - I have a V12 engine project to learn with and 3 broken studs to get out ! I'm confident now I can can progress.
You are welcome
Best of luck with it ;-)
I didn't need the extractor. I drilled an uneven, ragged hole about half inch inside the bolt. Then I took a huge screwdriver and hammered it inside the hole. Then I took vise grips, and turned the huge screwdriver with the vise grips attached to the end of the screwdriver. It was very easy. Thank you for your videos.
👍
Thanks for posting the video. I checked it out and you were not at all mis-leading. Any mechanic worthy of his craft will make intelligent decisions about when to use what tools. Others will simply criticize. There are many who will benefit from your video. Well done.
Orville Boutilier Wow, 7 year old comment with no likes or replies! That’s ‘cos it’s true! 👍🏻
You're welcome. In fact I have actually bought a set of extractors now and that's thanks to your video. So cheers!
I love the subtle differences between traditional English and American English, anti-clockwise vs counter-clockwise
also spanner=wrench
Good point that folks may have missed in that video is you made sure the hole drilled was deep enough before trying the extractor.
Have seen two lads now not drill the hole deep enough and the extractor has not got a grip and spun out because the end of it could not wind in far enough. :)
Have a go with a metabo drill by the way the 18v has a pulse function that is great for starting small pilot holes or going through tile e.t.c. :)
what if the easy out breaks off inside?
I've watched like, 10 bolt extraction videos tonight. They're so satisfying! Like yeah! Take that bolt! Ha!
LOL
Thanks for the comment
Yeah, I broke the Screw Extractor in the Bolt.... Now what?
God has forsaken you I’m sorry
You're fucked, that's what. Don't worry, I've done it. It's a rite of passage.
Doh
Same sold the car…
The old adage is it can’t be tight if it’s liquid
I just had to thank you for this video! I accidentally broke a valve cover bolt off leaving the remaining screw in the top of the head. I wend and bought a drill bit and ease out and presto.. It came right out. Thanks again!!
Dude I did this yesterday x2 man it’s an bitch
@@moekhan95 I'm trying to do it today, but the easy out just won't fucking hammer in, how'd you do it?
If you would have had a left handed bit, you'd of walked that bad boy right out. ; ))
You are right-
Remove a broken bolt using a left handed drill bit
pretty sure he said that as one of his first point...but thanks for repeating it...
He’s showing the purpose of the tool. It’s an example.
Left hand bits dont always work
Thanks bro. Your tutorial is really a life saver. I just removed a broken bolt inside my motorcycle engine mounting. Thanks again.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for making the video. I was successful at removing a broken exhaust manifold stud out of the head. It was my first time using one of these extractors.
I'm glad the video helped.
Well done for getting that out, exhaust bolts are probably the most difficult types of broken bolts to remove!
Thanks for the comment 👍
By far the best method to use, to remove bolts and screws of this sort.
Thanks for the comment
Spray it with AeroKroil then wait a hour then set the drill clutch to low and put it in reverse the impacting action of the drill will help remove the part.
Oh my! Thank you so much! I just watched the video on how to do it wrong and almost wrecked the bolt or screw actually I'm working with but I got it out. Thank you very much. Mine never came with drill bits but I just had a little drill bit so it worked
Perfect . Made a difficult problem easy. Thanks
+George Goehl
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
If the screw was tighten you would be fucked up.
Perfect demonstration of using such a tool! Cheers mate! 😌
No problem 👍
We do not often give praise or thanks to those who make our lives much easier .
Thank You.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
This worked perfectly for me! Thanks!
Great to hear 👍
Thank you! 12 years after posting this, helped me get out a rounded allan bolt from a shower handle
I would advise against the use of the centre drill to start the hole... these bits are designed to only
be used in a lathe tailstock & the tips are EXTREMELY fragile... don't ask me how I know 😒
As a machinist of 25 years experience, I can tell u the tip will be very difficult, if not if impossible, to pick out &
don't even think of drilling it with a cobalt bit as the hard tip will deflect the cobalt bit towards the softer surrounding metal...
I start with a light centre punch as u did in the vid ... then wack a good centre dot when you are happy its fairly well centred...
Good vid man keep up the good work on a great channel 😎👍
Thanks for the comment
Now onto learning the difference between a shifter and a spanner :D
A small adjustable spanner 😁
Oh ok thank u soo much for the response ... Yeah cuz I used a regular drill bit n doesn't work so ima try this new method like you .. Thanks
Have you ever used left handed drill bits? I have a set that I only use to drill out broken bolts. That way, if the broken bolt moves, it is coming out, not going in deeper. I started doing this when I had one go in as this one did, but refused to come out. As you can imagine, this made a bad situation worse.
TIP: If you break off a drill bit, Or screw extractor, in the hole, Heat it until red hot, then let cool to room temperature, repeat, then drill out. The heat will soften the broken piece, making it drillable.
I have used left handed drill bits, they are very useful-
Remove a broken bolt using a left handed drill bit
Thanks for the tip about heating up the broken piece ;-)
How do you heat just the extractor bit and not the bolt it is stuck in?
K
I like the heat idea unfortunately the machinery on the operating floor wont allow us to do that.flammable material
That should have been used
Nice to see you using the great bahco spanner . Thanks for makin these great videos!!
Bahco make the best adjustable spanners IMHO and some of their other tools are also good ;-)
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Wow excellent video!
I have a broken stud that's been on my cylinder head cover for a year now and thanks to ur video I've gained the knowledge to go about fixing this issue. Thanks alot man!
Did u get it out
Gerad Butler narrating DIY's! awesome.Thanks for the great vid btw, looked it up after I broke a screw on my mototrcycle's alternator cover. The example shown was sizably larger than mine (6x70 mm) and judging by the way you gingerly handled yours I pretty much feel i'm SOL.
Even at 70 years of age, I can still pick up a piece of useful information. Center drills. How have I missed them all my life? I do know that it is almost impossible to keep a regular drill bit in the center of what you are drilling. But, with the start a center drill gives, it is no longer impossible.
Thanks a bunch.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
They work great... I got mine from Drill Pro for very little money and they do work
Never thought of using a centre drill actually, might give that a go! I usually use a 3mm drill but carefully centre punch first. Getting it central is the key, no matter how it goes!
@@andygilbert1877 are these center drills, countersunk?
You've got some mighty sharp drillbits there mate!
Thank you so much. I have a set of easy-outs, and a shower cold-control I can't get unscrewed. I now know how to use the tools my late hubby left. I really appreciate the bit at the end that explains the science.
Excellent video. Exactly the info I was looking for. Thank you! I will give this a try.
jmiles1960
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thanks heaps. I had a grub screw in a tap mixer fitting to take out. The Allen key slot was rounded out so i just purchased an easy out kit and followed your instructions, worked a treat.
Thanks for sharing this video. Follow your instructions and get my job done.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Appreciate the concept here but you've faked one for the video - show us one that is bottomed out or seized and corroded - generally found easy outs in smaller sizes to be near to useless - generally for serious broken bolts/studs spline drive style extracors or good old drill & retap are required. The very first thing to try is the good old tap around with a centre punch - which would have worked in this instance -demonstrated by the fact the thread 'ran' to the bottom during the drilling !
nice demonstration! but i wouldn't even use those pilot bits! because those pilot bits can easily broke, once they broke i cant even drilled on those!
Good video
Thanks
I have 5 mm scre broken in an assembly and its depth is less than 1/2 inch
How to remove?
i need to perform this in my rig wich has 4 really rusted bolts ( 10 mm bolts head size) with no head at all ( broke when try to remove) so i have a few questions:
1) how i choose the right drill bit size?
2) how deep should i drill the hole?
3) once i drilled the hole: should i hammer the extractor?
@ Garry Gemmell
German tools are generally the best available. I think my screw extractors are made by Teng, which are okay for the money.
Ultimate Handyman
Legend! Thank you great video. I had a nightmare with a snapped off terrible quality 'titanium' bolt in handle bare stem of my road bike. I noticed your bolt stated to screw in when you drilled with the larger drill bit. Well I tried same and was able to drill and screw it straight out the other side . Soo so happy. :-) thank you
Well done getting that bolt out.
Sometimes if it is a blind hole I use a left handed drill bit, which bites in and unscrews the broken bolt.
Thanks for the comment
You have shown the ideal situation here, where the bolt/stud is not seized in! You might want to consider showing a vid with a more complex extraction (seized in) and the problems of a broken easyout in the stud, the way they come to me when someone has already had a go and stuffed it completely. The one shown I would have wound out with the centre punch in a minute or so. Easyout is a misleading term in reality. Cheers from John.
give this guy a 24 pack of beer
That just happened to me, the extractor bit broke off and im looking for a way to fix it. I dont know what to do
Actually you can also keep stepping the drill up a size at a time until you can literally peel the threads out.
Thanks for the comment 👍
It’s really satisfying to be able to do that...can take a bit of practice to get to that point though!
Tut tut-an engineer using an adjustable spanner-Like you I have had mixed results when it works-fantastic, you're the greatest-when the extractor snaps flush with the work,well you know the feeling!
Use a tap handle.
Nice quality of easy out. Here in France only crap thing that broke easily
What if the bolt was used with "Loctite" do you follow the same procedure, or is the a different technique??
Same but you want too heat the bolt with a torch till its glowing to weaken the metal and the loctite
Heats the only way
like your video some people use tig welding and wild small bolte to take this off great video sir take care
Thanks man. Japanese motorcycles are notorious for broken bolts. May I also add that it helps using a torch for direct heat to loosen up the threads a bit as well.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
This is one of those things that looks simple and easy but in reality is a job that leaves no room for error.
Much respect to you for having the patients and finesse to tackle that bitch of a bolt- very nicely done!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Yes, you did this with hand tools. No drill press. No lathe. Just your eye and hands. Well done!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks, used this years ago but good to see it being demonstrated. I have a need to use my old tool to help my son
+Sandor Karl
You are welcome ;-)
Thanks for the comment
yes i think so, thanks, i got to be careful of the metal dust because the screw is stuck in a electric motor and i cant get any metal dust onto the magnets.
Left handed drill bits, find them at Snapon, Matco, etc., not Home Depot. They can be a life saver.
thanks man, mine came out first time, easy - thanks for the vid
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
When having sex, never forget to wear safety glasses, helmet and gloves...
Don't forget the easy out
Jesper Hansen. What's wrong with you guys and your foul minds, you make me sick!!!
Don't forget respiratory and face shield
And never attempt w\out apron
Hey kid you could put your eye out.
I think I found the right sized extractor. I will be taking off the other bed bolts that came off ... thankfully, to see what size I will need for sure *crossing fingers I don't have to pay an arm and a leg for it.
What do you do if the broken bolt is extremely tight?
Cuss and pray
Part out
Get a tap and die set. Then completely drill it out and tap it again.
Im stuck on a 1999 taho bolt for the starter smfh😅
Good video clear instructions, I didnt get it stuck in a cieling fan this time.
Glad it helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video. My luck is the broken off bolt is usually rusted to surrounding metal. It was great to see someone actually have success using an easy out. I'm going to have to purchase a center drill as that is a critical part of the process.
Thanks, I needed that. But question. Did you use a left-handed drill bit? If so, which way did you spin it? Or did you use a right-handed drill bit? If so, which way did you spin it? Which is better when using an extractor? Sorry for all the questions. New at this and with rust, corrosion, and age--me nuts are going bad!
No, I used a right-handed drill bit, so that rotates to the right if you are behind the drill (the drill should be in forwards)
If you use a left-handed drill bit you need to put the drill in reverse.
Here's an old video that I made about left-handed drill bits- th-cam.com/video/FYvaPbX1sT4/w-d-xo.html
Removing bolts when they are rusty, is always hard work!
Thanks for the comment 👍
In my experience, these are the most disappointing handyman tool there is, and are generally derided by tradesmen. They only work for studs or bolts which are free enough to turn that you could grind a slot in them with a Dremel and wind them out with a screwdriver.
If the broken stud is hard to turn, these will just expand it more tightly into the hole, At this point, any further torque will simply break the hardened easyout.
You will now spend easily five times as much getting a tradesman machinist/welder to do a difficult extraction job.
Here's my recommendation: either take it to a machine shop, or (if you have the skills, but don't have a TIG aka GTAW welding plant): Make a guide jig which you can clamp to the part in order to drill an accurate pilot hole in the middle of the broken stud. If you can get your hands on left handed bits, so much the better, otherwise, simply take a couple of suitably sized conventional bits and sharpen them (and run them) backwards. Don't worry about getting the geometry perfect: if they grab, so much the better. The final one of these drill bits (if needed) should be the largest you can run into the hole without removing the thread crests of the female (tapped) hole. The remnants will almost certainly run themselves out like a helicoil, connected to the stub at the bottom. If not, drill right through, then coax the coil out with a scriber and some needle nose pliers.
Gottenhimfella check out the videos from JerrysBrokenTap channel he has interesting edm tap removal videos
have you ever tried heating up the broken bolt with a torch and melting some wax into the threads? works everytime for me when using screw extractors. the wax penetrates and lubes up corroded threads 10x better than any pb blaster or wd-40
+Beeroxin
I have heated up broken bolts before but I have never used wax.
What kind of wax do you use, just normal candle wax?
Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman Beeswax is the one for the job. If you can't find it Toilet seal rings have beeswax. I think a more modern approach would be to soak it in Kroil.
+rwsmith29456
Thanks ;-)
@ultimatehandyman I'm sorry it's not so much a stud as it is just a snapped bolt (I learned the hard way they don't need to be so tight). Either way thanks!
From the searching I did online, some people stated that the truck bed bolts had Loc Tite on them. Would I have to heat up the bolt, then drill in into the bolt as you did in the video or is there specific steps to take into account?
Excellent videos, thanks ! :) 🔩
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Anytime ! :)
@ John Eley
Yes, I have about five tap wrenches, but they were in my tool box at work ;-)
great video thanks. I have this problem on my honda motorcycle. 1975 so i can't get replacement parts either :(
What if you actually snap the drill out in the power tool and use it anti clockwise? Do you think it would do the work for a frozen screw?
That is often true, just not in your demo. It may help to comment that the broken bolt is usually rusted in place, which is why it broke in the first place. Soaking with WD40 can help, but the screw extractor will be unavoidably stressed and it really sucks if that also breaks. I always grease the drill tip before drilling steel.
thank you sir, that's easy because it's shallow what if it's deep inside? the same steps like this?
You are welcome.
This might help- th-cam.com/video/dJfkCj3FWBs/w-d-xo.html&t
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thank you sir, I really appreciate it. I'll subscribed now. till next time😉
Finally a good video
Thanks for the comment 👍
i have tried to remove a tiny broken bolt on my eaxhaust manifold underneath my scooter using this method, it is very diificult because the bolt is underneath the scooter and there isn't much room. And to make it worse the screw extractor has snapped off inside the hole that i drilled, any help?
You are correct, sometime they work. But it was useless tools from Sears & the actual extractor bits broke, making more work.
Nice clear & close up video, sir.
+angelisone Thanks for the comment ;-)
+angelisone Try to drill a broken extractor out. Impossible. My Dad found the right solution. He chiseled it until the bolt broke up and ended up inside my car's water jacket!
+rwsmith29456 Heck, I am having a very hard time removing the crankshaft bolt that was snapped on the crankshaft pulley.
I still can't remove it out. Any suggestions?
Very clear and concise. great video. thanks.
If the screw extractor doesn't work on a screw that's exposed and not broken off or flush, rather than go the oft-repeated route of taking a Dremel and cutting a slot for a standard flat screwdriver (that still may strip), here's a less frustrating and more fool-proof method:
Take a grinder (full-size or a grinding bit on a Dremel, or a file if you don't have one) and flatten two sides of the screw head on opposite sides. Then grab it with vice grips and unscrew it. The flats will let you get a better grip without it slipping like it would with a round head. You'll get a lot more leverage on a stuck screw with vice grips than you would with a screwdriver and it's a lot less likely to strip again than a slot for a standard screwdriver might.
Thanks for the comment
Would this work with the bolt having a lot or rust in the threads or can I torch the bolt ? Worried about the heat warping the threads
Have any tips for dealing with a broken screw extractor?
th-cam.com/video/7JCfEMrCjhc/w-d-xo.html&t
Smart devices. They are like "progressing friction drills" - they just drill their way inside the broken bolt's hole in a continuously increasing friction fashion. At some point the friction overcomes the bolt and it starts getting unscrewed.
Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman you are the man!!!!! Thank you!!!!!!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
1:42.. these are the type of Center drills I have and they work great for this
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for this, great video
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Will these work on striped bolts aswell
So what do you do if you snap the extractor inside 👀
th-cam.com/video/7JCfEMrCjhc/w-d-xo.html&t
@2:35 I would've been running to get my left thread drill bits..lol
Did you say CENTER drill at the beginning? I'll look that up but I've never heard the term. Okay, I've now ordered a set of center drills from Amazon. I've seen many videos on using extractor bits, but none of them mentioned using a center drill. On the other hand, most of the time, my extractor drills don't do the job. Maybe your video will turn the tide. EDiT: Another thing you did that I've never seen before is to drill in after using the center drill but BEFORE using the extractor bit. I'm beginning to think that I should have come here first. You take about twice as many steps as are usually recommended with screw extractors. Let's hope that you're also twice as effective as with those methods.
Yes, Centre drills can often help to get the hole started directly in the centre. Screw extractors can be hit and miss, it really depends how the bolt has snapped in the first place. If the bolt has rusted in and the head has sheared when attempting to undo it, the chances of removing it with a screw extractor are not good. I do not always use a centre drill, but it often helps people that don't do this kind of thing often.
Drilling out the majority of the bolt (without going so large in diameter that you damage the threads) can help as it can weaken what is left of the bolt.
I made this video a few months back which might help- th-cam.com/video/_R1b8niX13w/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment
Another thing I like about you and your videos is that you don't guarantee success. You come right out and say that sometimes, despite your best efforts, it's not possible to remove the screw, at least without taking much more drastic action. I'd like to see more such honesty from others. They make it sound like removing a screw is child's play. IT ISN'T.
Thanks, it can be very difficult. Only a few weeks ago I spent over 6 hours knelt down on a machine trying to get out a sheared off M20 cap head bolt which had been thread locked in! Cap head bolts (sometimes called socket head bolts) are much harder then normal bolts and after 6 hours of drilling and swearing had to leave it for another day!
But then a few weeks later I was called to a machine with two sheared off M12 bolts and I managed to remove them just by tapping them round with a centre punch and hammer.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
Like this situation no need to drill more... just use the reverse drill bit, it will come out.
That is correct, but this is a demonstration of how to use a screw extractor.
Thanks for the comment
when you used the drill bit, did you drill clock wise, or anti clock wise ?
Clockwise.
Thanks for the comment
I have a counter sunk stainless screw with Allen head. I have used penatrine and it won't budge, the Allen head has now stripped. how would you suggest I remove? the bolt is about an M6 thread. Thanks
also it's very very tight! when I cracked the others it was a loud crack.
+Jacob Inglis
If you have a welder I would try welding a nut on the top of it. We do this all the time on site- but with larger countersink bolts. It might work- it might not. If not you could try drilling it out, preferably with a left handed drill bit.
th-cam.com/video/aRrz-cphBY4/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/FYvaPbX1sT4/w-d-xo.html
If anyone going to attemp what he do then dont tap your stud extractor or bolt extractor or whatever too hard cause if the extractor breaks it will be a hell of a day to remove it, if it snap flush with the bolt ur going to replace the part that u snap your extractor in
I mean the threads in the hole of the main part. Not the threads in the screw or the ez out tool.
I think the word you're looking for is 'staged'. "Faked" doesn't do you justice. Thanks for the video.
Why is the newly removed old bolt shiny on the opposite end of the easy out from being cut off??...the rest of the entire threaded portion is sorta rusty aged, but the very end is very shiny...something fishy about that threaded portion screwing in while drilling...stuck so bad the srew breaks off but so loose it screws in??😒😒😒
The bolt was in the end of the shaft that had been sheared off. I do not know how it got sheared off, but asked if I could take the shaft to demonstrate how to use a screw extractor ;-)
Hi how to identify left hand drill bit please let me know
Great tutorial
Thanks for the comment
I had a torx bit fail inside a grub srcrew. Its hardend steel and im strgling to get the tip that broke of the grub screw. Any thoughts?
I'm afraid you might need a carbide drill bit for that, we sometimes use these at work- fave.co/3pzJSpB
Awesome! got a guitar with cheap bridge screws that snapped right off, got me a screw extractor for it, hopefully it'll work out :D
@Ultimate Handyman, would tapping a left handed thread and using a left handed bolt work better than a stud extractor?
It might do. The problem with screw extractors is that they are tapered, so there is a tendency for them to make the original bolt expand slightly.
A bolt might be a better option, but I would use a steel socket head bolt as they have a higher tensile strength than a hex head bolt.
Ultimate Handyman I have a sheered off brake bleed nipple and I'm trying to work out whether to send them off or try it myself. But I guess you can't comment on that over the interwebs.
If you don't wear safety glasses it won't work
LoL
But at least you will have both of your eyes if something goes wrong, unlike two friends of mine- who only have two eyes between them ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
I love this vid just because he said anti clockwise instead of 'counter clockwise'
Thanks for the comment
Great video!
Thanks for the comment 👍
and what do you do if the bolt won't come out so easily? Do you tap the easy out while turning it?
Drill out as much of the bolt, then tap in the easy out using a hammer.
They have a limited success rate, if the bolt is rusted in there - you don't have much chance with an easy out.
@@ultimatehandyman It's not rusted. It is in the bottom part of the crankshaft of my john deere x320 mower engine. The electronic clutch for the mower deck belt is held on by this bolt. I have a heat gun. I will heat up the outside of the crank shaft and then spray wd40 into the drilled hole so it will suck it in and through the threads. I was tapping and tapping on the easy out as I turned it and it got a really good bite to the point it is turning the engine backwards. So I had to grab the belt to stop it. 😁 Thanks for fast reply. I'll keep you posted.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv It's not deep in the hole is it?
th-cam.com/video/dJfkCj3FWBs/w-d-xo.html
@@ultimatehandyman No. Maybe 1/4 inch in. I have tried my heat gun and wd40 and it still will not move. Next, heat gun and the computer duster spray that is very cold to shrink the stud on the inside after heating the outside. It worked years ago when I was in the Navy. If I could stand the mower up on end then it would be so much easier. Thanks. 😁
@@ultimatehandyman Well, after 2 days of heating and turn and beating on the easy out and using penetrating oil the large easy out finally snapped off in the hole. Impossible to drill out an easy out. I either need another cranks shaft or another engine. As much as I heat that shaft and cooled the inner bolt and also with nut buster, it would not budge.
Going to have to give this one a try tomorrow. Was putting the exhaust mani back on when the very last stud snapped off :(
MrSoupMonster Exhaust studs are one of the hardest studs to remove because the heating up and cooling down.
Best of luck with it ;-)