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Hey Joe, I wanted to share that I fully restored my 1983 Wellcraft V20 in 2007-2008. During the process, I replaced all the wood in the hull. Your videos would have been incredibly helpful back then; I had to self-educate through countless hours of research. Your content is truly invaluable. Thank you!
Sounds like a cool project, sorry you had to learn the hard way. I am happy to share the knowledge about boats and there repair that my family has learned over the years. Welcome to the channel and thanks for sharing and commenting!
Going to fix my transom with coosa board, what is the order of the fiberglass you recommend, the transom is 2 inches while the coosa is 1.5 so i have 1/2 inch to fill
I’m repairing the transom on my racing trimaran and am bracing with marine ply , this channel is the best . There exists much misinformation about resin and glass / tomorrow gonna start with chopped, then woven and finish with chopped , did not know the importance of woven for strength . Thank you.
If you had a school id be first in line to sign up. Currently doing a 76’ formula got stuck on stringers until I found your channel. Priceless info thank you 🙏
@@FishBumpTV have you ever considered a school or program of sorts for those thinking of a career in boat building and restoration? I’d def be on the list!!
@@MichaelHooten85 I would consider it for sure! It would take some time to figure out the details but who knows. We will see where things go with the channel, and go from there. It means alot to me that you guys are enjoying the channel so much, and I am excited to see its growth. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
You have consistently put out some the most useful videos….thoroughly enjoyed your series on building the 29 ft bay boat, but this informational videos are invaluable as I tackle repairs on my boat
I'm currently restoring an old 80's model procraft bass boat. And I've got some badly damaged outside corners (top cap and casting deck around compartment lids). Id love a video of how to tackle a repair of this nature. I found your video of a gouge repair on the bottom of the hull really helpful in this restoration. Thanks for the great work you're a great teacher!
Amazing video Joe. When you get a repair project in your shop lead us through steps like you did it now. I think repair video will get a lot of views 😍
Great video on the different types of glass and their uses. Love the detailed and easy to understand information. Another fantastic job, thanks and please keep em coming.
Yes, you did a great job! Explanations are thorough without unnecessary blather. Demonstrations are complete in showing exactly what to do. Best fiberglass channel on the web.
Magnificent videos Captain. I unfortunately had to close down my business due to COVID and retire but I can't just sit around so I've begun collecting boats for projects! Your videos have been very helpful. It's been a learning curve and with your help it has made it easier. My budget is always my biggest concern and I was wondering if you could share the best place to purchase fiberglass. Much appreciated. And please keep on cooking. My wife loves it.
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Sorry to hear what covid did to your business! That was a really tough time for a lot of folks. It is good that you have found some project boats to keep you busy, and I am happy to share what we can with you guys. We buy most of our supplies locally from a company called Advanced Plastics. We are working on putting up amazon links with our videos as well, that could help you and help our channel. We love doing the cooking episode as well! It is always a lot of fun for us, wish you guys could sample what we make! It sure is good! Please tell your wife I said Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing your expertise. I have a 30 ft boat that I've had since 1988 and now trying to learn the best way to replace deck and change frome single inboard to bracket and twin outboards.
Glad the videos are helpful! I will try to keep the how to videos rolling out for you. We do offer consulting work on an hourly basis. If that would be something you are interested in, just let me know. Thanks
Good day capt. Joe id like to ask ur profesional opinion im planning to make a large shower pan and sectional wall pannels .. the wall panels will be foam board base . What type of fiberglass sheet and layering would u suggest for foam panels and wood frame base shower pan ? I will be finishing this with a resin stone coat color finish .. thanks for all the great vids its been really inspiring my buiding ideas safe stravels✨️👍 p.s. i exept full resposabilty so please no worries lol thanks again from "Rooster"!
I love this channel you really know your glass and I can't wait to do some repairs on my boat Bimini top. Cheers and wishing you the very best from God.
Started watching your videos a month or so ago. Really informative. Thank you very much. Starting a boat floor rebuild soon and I think your videos have me more confident doing it myself.. Thank you.
Love your work Joe, thanks for your advice, going to watch your ‘over plywood’ video because I’m about to glass over a new floor in my boat, a beautiful 1973 Sea Nymph made in New Zealand. Love your accent too btw, very cool.
I’d enjoy a video on osmotic or hull blister repair. But if I’m picking up what you’re laying down, it sounds like I should start the blister repair with mat, then alternate between 1708 and 1808, finishing with more mat, before proceeding with the rest of the repair.?.
Mat or csm works well with vinyl ester resins, but not so well with epoxy resins. Generally, for below the waterline repairs, you would want to use vinyl ester or epoxy resins for their excellent bonding and moisture blocking characteristics. So your fiberglass selection would depend on which resin you plan to use. 1708 with the csm backer is very popular all around. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
One thing I would mention, internet says, it takes about a gallon of resin, to wet out a yard of 1808. Joe, if I didn't care about looks, could I use complete mat for both layers, and call it done? Then just sand out the edges prior to paint? The Roven is nice, but I'm not going to fiberglass the hull of my my 50' Beneteau Man, that finishing cloth is transparent, with a nice finish.
Great Channel Joe, Leaned a lot already. Maybe you could do a jetski hull repair video. I know the concepts are the same but it would still be very helpful especially with how contoured the bottom of a jetski is. Keep up the great work my friend. Thank you sir!
I have a question for you. You don’t talk about Kevlar material used on a boat. I know some people have used it. Can you explain its properties and the good and bad also you are the newest person I’ve ever seen working this stuff you don’t get a drop on you, it’s amazing. I have that stuff in my hair and my toes and everywhere in between I do like the ones person comment about you writing a book or putting this in digital form like a e-book. Thanks for all your time. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the suggestions and for watching! Honestly, I don't have any need for materials like Kevlar and carbon fiber for the type of work that I do. It does have applications in very light weight, and high performance parts, but it can be quite expensive and has a learning curve to it. There is a good chance that as the channel grows, I will be able to do a video covering those materials for you all. So stay tuned!
Hey Joe, I’m in the middle of a Bass boat repair and would love to pick your brain regarding the best way to approach the glass repair. The repair is in the stern bilge to stringer seam. Stringers are fiberglass so glass hull to glass stringer. Thank you. Tim
Fantastic content and info, thank you! I'm going to search your channel to see if you've ever demonstrated the best way to make composite fiberglass panels over XPS board, which I'd like to make for a custom RV/camper wall and roof application. Thanks!
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos! We use a lot of Coosa board on the channel. Sorry no xps yet, but I will try to do a Core selection video for you guys soon. Best of luck with your RV project!
Hi Joe from the far far far south., the southern tip of african continent, place called Aguhlas. Joined your invaluable series and thoroughly enjoy your hands on case studies as well as your knowledge of all the rawaterials. I have a 9mx2.2m triple hull river barge where the deck ply has separated so I need to replace the entire deck...would love any advice..can email pic if you would like
Rookie here: It is my understanding that "mat" does not work well with epoxy due to the binders in the mat; therefore, can 1708, which does work well with epoxy (?), be used exclusively without applying the mat as a base? I'm preparing to install a reinforcement transom in an old I/O that I'm transitioning to an outboard motor. I'm using 2-pieces of 3/4" plywood for the project and will combine that with the transom already in place....the objective is to extend the transom to the bulkhead and pay special attention to glassing-in the transom ends to the fiberglass hull. I've have already ordered 90-feet x 50" of 1708 and a couple of gallons of "Total Boat" epoxy and slow hardener. I'm in SW Florida and the temps here are now in the mid to upper 80's during the day - humid. It is good protocol to use 1708 exclusively with the epoxy to both seal the plywood transom, add strength and integrity to the wood while also feathering the 1708 to the fiberglass inner hull to counter the forces of the motor on the transom? I'm a little confused concerning the application of mat or strand, which requires a polyester resin (?) and 1708 which works with epoxy for strength. Thank you for your help...much appreciated. Your videos are invaluable.
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Yes, mat does not work as well with epoxy as it does with polyester or vinyl Ester resins. Epoxy doesn't have the solvents in the resin that dissolves the binders in the mat, which makes it a little more difficult to work with. Most 1708 has a layer of 3/4 Oz csm stitched to the backside of the main 45 degree glass strands, but it is not held together with binders like pure csm is. 1708, 1808, and 6 Oz finishing clothe are the most popular fiberglass fabrics when working with epoxy resins. I hope this helps and best of luck with your project!
Go figure I scatter the internet looking for tutorials on how to build a fiberglass subwoofer enclosure for my car with no success on the degree of detail I'm looking for and come to find out I find it and how to fiberglass boats from you the most detailed TH-cam video instruction guide on fiberglass everything thank you
Welcome to the channel! I am glad to hear that you found what you are looking for, and appreciate the level of detail that we put into our videos! Thanks for watching, and I wish you all the best with your subwoofer enclosure!
So much useful information! I’m trying to reinforce an area to install a winch anchor, the fibreglass is pretty thin where the winch comes, and I was thinking about adding some marine ply and then putting fibreglass over it using matt and 1708. Would putting a first layer of matt and sticking the ply to it be the best way to bond the ply to the existing fibreglass? Cheers from Australia.
Hi joe I really need your advice I'm doing a fiberglass pond project the pond will be made off panels they will have to be thick and strong could you advise me on what matting to use I think I'll have to do about 5 layers but your advice would be helpful on what goes on first
Great and helpful videos 🙏 I was wondering; you lay new layers on the already cured fiberglass. What’s the exact process for this? Do you have to sand it down first, or can you simply wet it and put the next layer on? And how about the primer? Should you prime it and wait for it to get tacky or can you just wet it and get started? - same question for wood that has already gotten primer but cured without fiberglass. I am starting a project where I will split the work up in sections and I cannot find any clear answers to this online Your videos have already been a great help and I hope you can help me with this too Thank you 🙏
I have several videos in our How to Fiberglass over plywood series of videos here on the channel that will be helpful I think. I also offer consulting through our patreon account to help people that need more time and info. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
When replacing stringers in an old boat (1979 Pennyan) what resin would you use? I have been told that older fiberglass does not adhere to some materials. Thanks for another great video.
There is no one resin that is perfect for all applications. Most boats are built of polyester resins. But once the poly resin has fully cured, you are relying on a mechanical bond, vs a chemical bond when adding new stringers, transom etc. As far as secondary bonding goes, epoxy is the best, followed by vinyl Ester, then polyester. They can all be used with success in certain applications. A clean surface, with VERY aggressive grinder marks or tooth is critical. We get this by using a 24 grit disc on a high speed grinder. Then vacuum the surface, and wipe down with acetone. I plan on doing a video on this topic very soon. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Ok I will try to make this as short as possible. I am working a Stratos late 80's and they used mostly woven-roven on stringers and I think that is where a lot of failures come from because of where it is woven seems that it created holes that water could get through and the quality of the fiberglassing was poor. In your professional opinion which I value highly! how many layers of 1708 would you use to equal woven-roven on the stringers and other places that they have used it. I want to use only 1708 and chopped strand. My stringers are so bad that there is just a skeleton of fiberglass with a few chunks of wood in the bottom of them. I will use all of the techniques I have learned from you to make this boat better than it ever was. I will be using only Coosa board for it. To sum it all up I think you have the best boat repair DIY videos on TH-cam and I commend you for starting this channel. Thanks so much and have a great day!
Glad you are enjoying the videos on the channel and finding them helpful! We used 3 layer of 1708 on each side of the Coosa stringers on our 29, and it is very solid. Be sure to consider the quality of the resin as well. A quality isophthalic polyester laminating resin, or even better a vinyl Ester resin is really going to help improve the strength and quality of the job. I hope this helps and wish we the best with your restoration project!
Wondeful content Joe! I have a question about too much resin though. You pointed out the problems with too much resin with 6oz. cloth but what about the other materials that were used? You said not to have pooling of resin but I’m not sure why. Is it a structural issue or just wastage?
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos! You want the fiberglass to be saturated but not oversaturated because Resin by itself can be quite brittle. Resin Oversaturation or puddling also adds extra weight and cost without any benefits. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
Captain Joe!! I love watching your videos. Learning a ton. Much appreciate your work ethic and the family heritage for boat building is also outstanding. Quick question. I am restoring a 1981 TMI Sailboat (Chrysler design) and have large areas such as in the sail lockers and settees that need mat and woven or 1708 to restabilze the surface to re-gelcoat. I know epoxy covers nearly all, but I would like to use vinylester or polyester resin - For economy of material mainly. How do I know if the original resin by manufacturer is compatible with vinylester or polyester resin? Thank you
Glad you are enjoying the videos! The vast majority of fiberglass boats ever built are going to be polyester resin. Probably only 5 percent or less are built with epoxy. There is not any easy way that I know of to test your boat, but I can almost guarantee that it is polyester. So using a good quality iso polyester laminating resin or vinyl Ester resin should work well. There are links below our video descriptions if you would like to use the same kinds of resin we use in our videos. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thanks! The piece we fiberglassed was just for demonstration purposes. If it was going in a boat, yes you would encapsulate it completely in glass. Hope this clarifies what we did. Appreciate you watching!
That's a good question. Different Temps, plywood, type of glass fabric and how many layers as well as the person doing the work could all have an effect on how much resin you could use on a job like that. You can usually figure on approx 2 to 3 Oz of resin used per Sq ft covered with 1 layer of 1708 biaxial. Based on your Diminsions you are looking at 880 or so Sq ft. Let's round up to 900 Sq ft x 3 Oz per Sq ft on the high end would be 2700 ozs divided by 128 Oz per gallon would be 21 gallons of resin used approximately for one layer.I would recommend at least 2 or 3 layers of biaxial with a finish coat of csm or mat as well, for a vessel this size. This is just just my opinion of course! And a ballpark estimate. You should do your own calculations and research, as well as talk to your local fiberglass and resin suppliers. Safety is always a factor on a project like this so you may also want to pay for some more technical advice from a boat builder marine surveyor or boat repairman in your area. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Glad you are enjoying the videos! We will be replacing stringers, transom and the floor in our 21 foot Blazer project boat after the hardtop build. So stay tuned and thanks for watching!
Could you show how you would take an older boat with thin flimsy flooring or walls and strengthen them with fresh fiberglass? I'd really appreciate the advice and help with that. Thank you
Sure! I have a 21 ft center console project boat that needs new floors, stringers, transom ect that we will be starting a new series of videos on soon. I actually posted a couple videos on it before I started the hardtop build series of videos. So stay tuned and thanks for watching!
I really like Coosa board a lot. That's what we used in the floor and stringer of our custom 29 that we built on this channel. You might enjoy those videos. Thanks for watching!
wow nice video! I can use all the help I can get with fiberglass. I do have a question about the choosing the right fiberglass video. I assume you're using polyester resin with your demonstrations?
Thanks! Yes, we are using polyester resin in that video. I also have some videos working with epoxy also. There are some different techniques we use when working with the two different resins. Hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
Thanks Capt! Sure, the 6oz fiberglass cloth is generally used for just sealing or finishing out raw wood. We use it in applications like epoxy over plywood skiffs for example. It is quite expensive per pound compared to other fabrics and builds up thickness very slow compared to csm and roven or biaxials. Hope this answers your question. Appreciate you watching and commenting, it helps the channel!
Yes, you can use chopped strand mat if you are going to use polyester or vinyl Ester resins for your job. If you are going to use epoxy resin, I would go with the 6 Oz clothe or 1708 biaxial. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I wrote you before about bonding an epoxy coated material to a polyester fiberglass hull. I am now preparing to bond two pieces of epoxy coated material together. Your video shows the use of 403 and 406 into the resin. My concern is added thickness/separation . My overall thickness is critical. Why not just use epoxy only for bonding?
The thickened epoxy resin is stronger and stays in place better than unthickened epoxy in my opinion, but I am just showing you guys how we do things in our shop. If you don't think it will work for your application you should do what you feel most comfortable with, or do some test panels to see if it will work for you.
I may have missed it, but when you say "primer coat" are you allowing it to completely dry before adding layers? Also, if you are allowing it to fully harden, are you abrading the primer coat before starting the next step? Again, apologize if I missed it but I am very new with fiberglass and there is so much information and techniques to learn. Thanks for your videos, they are the easiest for me to follow/understand than some of the other creators.
Yes, I usually let the primer coat cure. Then you can sand it lightly just to knock down any small imperfections. Glad you are finding the videos helpful, and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
I heard in order to add a layer to old cured you need to sand to abrade. But with "new" there is an open time when you can apply another layer and the epoxy will adhere. Is this epoxy and not a poly resin issue, or not an issue at all?
There are several different types of resin available, but there isn't really a one resin for every situation answer. I currently use a lot of the vinyl ester resin from fiberglass warehouse. It is a great, all around resin that covers a broad range of applications. I do have a resin selection guide video here on the channel that you might find helpful. Fiberglass warehouse is also offering a discount code for fish bump tv viewers, so be sure to take advantage of that and save some money. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Great video. I built a 16’ runabout with plans from Glen-L but I used epoxy. The restore project I’m working on(1979 Checkmate), I used epoxy because I was familiar with it plus I needed the work time. Transom, stringers and floor. 1708 with epoxy. Do you ever use epoxy? )
Thanks! Glen L has some really nice plans, but I have never built one of their boats. I have designed and built several stitch and glue , epoxy over plywood skiffs that were fun to build. I plan on doing a poly vs vinyl vs epoxy video soon. Maybe cover the pros and cons of each. I would appreciate your thoughts and feedback on future content. Maybe we will do some epoxy work soon. Appreciate you watching!
Joe, are you familiar with the product Plascore, a honeycomb material made by Plascore, Inc, in Zeeland, Michigan, and if so would it be a good substrate for fiber glassing a boat deck? Your time and consideration is apreciated.
Sorry, I am not familiar with that product. I am a big fan of the Coosa board that we used to build our 29 ft charter boats. We have had really good performance out of it! Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Content suggestion - I would like to see how to mix your own putty and fillers using polyester and silica and/or glass balloons, fibre cut offs or what nots. I am a bit confused with all the ready made products with brands and product names. Please explain in depth how to use the different additives and when. That would really be of great help.
Thanks for the suggestion.I do have a video showing epoxy with different additives. You can basically do the same thing with polyester and vinyl Ester. Thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Seen it, good one! It is all about demystifying. Buying cans is no fun. Forgot to say, you are the best demystifier channel yet! Have a nice day sir!
I believed it should be noted that you cannot used CSM with epoxy because it is held together with styrene but you can use 1708 because it is stich no styrene. 🙂
Thanks for the suggestion. It can be challenging to cover every variable when doing videos like these. I plan on doing a poly vs vinyl vs epoxy resin video soon. I will make a special note to cover csm's incompatibility with epoxy resins. Appreciate you watching
Building two skegs for a catamaran, they are about 27"x12" i made them with coosa board 1/2" that will be the core. They will be mounted to 4"x27" base. Then bolted to the hulls by the base. What fiberglass cover should i use to cover these fins with so they hold well to the base? I was thinking 2 layers of 1708 and and extra 6" wide tape joint of 1708 on the angle area where they connect to the base. There are pretty heavy side loads when sailing and probably when turning too.
I remember you saying not to use CSM with epoxy, so for my little boat project, what should I start with? So far I have the plywood shell and tomorrow I buy the epoxy and fibre glass. What's your recommendation? I need this thing really durable really water proof
1708 biaxial works good with epoxy resin as does the 6 Oz clothe. 1708 is thicker, heavier material. 6 Oz is smoother and lighter. The how to choose the right fiberglass video and the how to fiberglass over plywood videos should have some of the info you need as well. I plan on doing a epoxy on plywood video very soon. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Thanks! We always use 1708 in structural applications like stringers, transons, bulkheads etc. It is just a much stronger material. The csm is good for initial bonding, waterproofing, and finish cosmetics. Hope this helps and we appreciate you watching
Thank you for your videos. I have cut the back out of my '77 Grady White 17' (bad transom). I saved the back panel to put over new plywood. Should I use CSM or 1708 (have both) to cover the cut? Will grind a bevel and plan to use polyester resin then cover with gelcoat. Any help would be appreciated.
Glad you are enjoying the videos! The 1708 biaxial is going to be the stronger of the two materials. The csm is good for initial bonding and finish cosmetics. You should use the materials where there best qualities will work for you. We plan on doing more structural fiberglass videos soon as it is much easier to discuss best techniques and options that way. Hopes this helps, thanks for watching!
Sure, 1708 or 1808 could work with stringers. I have a how-to fiberglass over plywood video here on the channel that shows exactly how I would use 1708 on a stringer. I also have a whole series of videos documenting the build of our 29 ft center console that you see in the background. Lots of fiberglass work showcased in that series. I will also be replacing the transom, floor, and stringers in our project boat that we are currently working on. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
I would check out fiberglass warehouse. That is where I am getting most of my supplies. They are also offering a 15 percent discount code for fish bump tv viewers. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
you mentioned on working with fiberglass, kay down CSM first then woven roving, would it be safe if we do CSM then woven roving then another woven roving then biaxial or just alternate the material like CSM then woven roving then biaxial? thank you. please reply.
The only fiberglass fabric that you should not laminate on itself over and over again is woven roven. If you have csm and roven to work with, you would always start with csm then roven then csm etc. You would always want to start and finish with csm on any project when you are also using roven. With 1708 and 1808 you can stack them on themselves over and over again with no problem. With 1708 and 1808 you can use csm on the last layer as a better cosmetic finish. You can also use layer after layer of csm stacked on itself with no bonding issues, it just will not be as strong as alternating layers of csm first then roven then csm. You may want to watch the video How to fiberglass over plywood, which we just did it should be helpful.. I also offer consulting on an hourly fee for folks that need more of my time. Hope that helps ,and good luck with your project!
please break down the cost comparison between mat and 1730 including the strength vs cost of resin . I am sure that in your business, the performance vs the cost comes into play. please note that less resin is more strength per pound of product. The strongest layups are vacuum bagged to minimize resin.
It is easier to do repair work right side up if that is an option. If it is a smaller boat, I would turn it over. If the damage is below the waterline that makes it more critical, Could be structural damage. Damaged glass should be removed, and new glass applied. We don't currently have a video detailing that process, but hope to have one soon. Yes, epoxy is the premium choice for that kind of repair, followed by vinyl and polyester resins. Hope this helps, good luck with your project!
There are many different ways stringers can be built. I imagine the original stringer were lumber or plywood and they rotted out. If that is the case I would go back with Coosa board in the same thickness as the original, or slightly thicker. Two layers glued and screwed together with with the joints staggered is the way to go. On most boats 3 layer of 1708 with the edges staggered works good in most cases. We have a video or two where we are working on the stringers and glassing them in our boatbuilding series that might be helpful. Stringers are not an area to take shortcuts or skimp on materials, so always a good idea to go on the heavy duty side of things. Of course these are just suggestions, and every boat is different. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
I like a vinyl Ester or a iso polyester laminating resin when working with csm. Epoxy doesn't work that great with csm, in my opinion. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
1 layer of 1708 biaxial, followed by a layer of 1oz csm is what I put on the floor of our 29. We doubled that amount in all of the corners for strength. The vinyl ester resin from fiberglass warehouse would work very good for that application. Of course you could put down more glass than that, but I wouldn't put down any less. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I got one ? Jw which one would be best used for stringers on a 1979 bass boat running from the the bow to the stern to the back of the boat to the transom cause I'm redo them and the transom in it?
OK just one other ? Do I do the csm too and then 1708 or just 1708 jw cause what I've seen on videos they do the 3 layers csm and 3 layers of 1708 so do I do that? Or just 1708
@@Billy_M_Gamer It doesn't hurt to start with csm, but most 1708 has a layer of csm on one side already. It can be done both ways with good results. I hope this helps
you mention 1oz. CSM. I have been using 1.5 oz. and sometimes 2oz. Csm. should i be using 1oz? i hope this isnt a stupid question. but yes i have some trouble with conforming to bends.
I like the 1 Oz because it works out much easier in my opinion, and remember that csm doesn't work as well with epoxy resin as it does with polyester and vinyl ester resins. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thank you, I've only used polyester. I want to try epoxy sometime though. I will order a roll of 1708 biaxial to try as well. Thanks again!
We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
Hey Joe, I wanted to share that I fully restored my 1983 Wellcraft V20 in 2007-2008. During the process, I replaced all the wood in the hull. Your videos would have been incredibly helpful back then; I had to self-educate through countless hours of research. Your content is truly invaluable. Thank you!
Sounds like a cool project, sorry you had to learn the hard way. I am happy to share the knowledge about boats and there repair that my family has learned over the years. Welcome to the channel and thanks for sharing and commenting!
@@FishBumpTV Thank you, Sir.
Going to fix my transom with coosa board, what is the order of the fiberglass you recommend, the transom is 2 inches while the coosa is 1.5 so i have 1/2 inch to fill
I’m repairing the transom on my racing trimaran and am bracing with marine ply , this channel is the best . There exists much misinformation about resin and glass / tomorrow gonna start with chopped, then woven and finish with chopped , did not know the importance of woven for strength . Thank you.
Sounds like you are on the right track, hope the transom repair goes smoothly! Thanks for watching!
If you had a school id be first in line to sign up. Currently doing a 76’ formula got stuck on stringers until I found your channel. Priceless info thank you 🙏
Wow, thanks so much! Glad the videos have been helpful. We have a lot more planned for you guys!
@@FishBumpTV have you ever considered a school or program of sorts for those thinking of a career in boat building and restoration? I’d def be on the list!!
@@MichaelHooten85 I would consider it for sure! It would take some time to figure out the details but who knows. We will see where things go with the channel, and go from there. It means alot to me that you guys are enjoying the channel so much, and I am excited to see its growth. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
You have consistently put out some the most useful videos….thoroughly enjoyed your series on building the 29 ft bay boat, but this informational videos are invaluable as I tackle repairs on my boat
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm currently restoring an old 80's model procraft bass boat. And I've got some badly damaged outside corners (top cap and casting deck around compartment lids). Id love a video of how to tackle a repair of this nature. I found your video of a gouge repair on the bottom of the hull really helpful in this restoration. Thanks for the great work you're a great teacher!
Thanks for the video suggestion! I will try to get something like that out to you guys soon.
Just wanted to say- My 10 year old son and I are tackling a 1974 Bristol 40 and are glued to your channel!
Sounds like a great project for you guys! Thanks so much for watching
Best video on glass work on utube.
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate that! I will try to keep the how to glass videos rolling out. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Thank you Joe for sharing your knowledge
You are very welcome! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Keeping coming thanks for sharing family legacy Capt Joe and regards to the rest of the family!
More to come! Thanks so much, and to your as well!
As always, very impressive. Well laid out, well demonstrated material. Thanks
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it!
Amazing video Joe.
When you get a repair project in your shop lead us through steps like you did it now. I think repair video will get a lot of views 😍
Thanks for the suggestion, I will try to make that happen! I really appreciate you watching and commenting!
Best channel yet! Good pace, upbeat tone, breaking everything down to understand.
Wow, thanks so much! Glad you are enjoying the channel!
Great video on the different types of glass and their uses. Love the detailed and easy to understand information. Another fantastic job, thanks and please keep em coming.
Thanks, glad you like them!
Well done..takes some of the mystery out in this kind of work for me as a novice. Thank you.
Thanks! I really appreciate you watching and commenting!
Yes, you did a great job! Explanations are thorough without unnecessary blather. Demonstrations are complete in showing exactly what to do. Best fiberglass channel on the web.
Wow, thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Magnificent videos Captain. I unfortunately had to close down my business due to COVID and retire but I can't just sit around so I've begun collecting boats for projects! Your videos have been very helpful. It's been a learning curve and with your help it has made it easier. My budget is always my biggest concern and I was wondering if you could share the best place to purchase fiberglass. Much appreciated. And please keep on cooking. My wife loves it.
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Sorry to hear what covid did to your business! That was a really tough time for a lot of folks. It is good that you have found some project boats to keep you busy, and I am happy to share what we can with you guys. We buy most of our supplies locally from a company called Advanced Plastics. We are working on putting up amazon links with our videos as well, that could help you and help our channel. We love doing the cooking episode as well! It is always a lot of fun for us, wish you guys could sample what we make! It sure is good! Please tell your wife I said Thanks for watching!
The content of your videos are so helpful, thanks so much for taking the time to create and share you’re an absolute legend 👍🇦🇺
Thanks So Much! Glad you are enjoying the videos. The comments and encouraging words mean a lot!
Just getting into the boating thing and starting my own project thanks for the knowledge
Welcome to the channel! I appreciate you watching, and best of luck with your projects!
Thank you again. Learned a lot. I needed to see your vids before I did my projects.
Glad to help! Best of luck with your projects!
You are the man Joe! Keep up the great and educational content brother!
Thanks so Much! Glad you are enjoying the content!
Thanks for sharing your expertise. I have a 30 ft boat that I've had since 1988 and now trying to learn the best way to replace deck and change frome single inboard to bracket and twin outboards.
Glad the videos are helpful! I will try to keep the how to videos rolling out for you. We do offer consulting work on an hourly basis. If that would be something you are interested in, just let me know. Thanks
Good day capt. Joe id like to ask ur profesional opinion im planning to make a large shower pan and sectional wall pannels .. the wall panels will be foam board base . What type of fiberglass sheet and layering would u suggest for foam panels and wood frame base shower pan ? I will be finishing this with a resin stone coat color finish .. thanks for all the great vids its been really inspiring my buiding ideas safe stravels✨️👍 p.s. i exept full resposabilty so please no worries lol thanks again from "Rooster"!
Great stuff Capt Joe and thank you for helping me find a supplier
Thanks! Glad to help anytime!
This video was very helpful. I am in the process of fully restoring my 15 ft skiff and I have no glassing experience at all.
Thanks, glad it was helpful! I have more fiberglass related videos on the way. Best of luck with your project!
Joe you are a brilliant educator thankyou so much.
Wow, thanks! I appreciate that!
I love this channel you really know your glass and I can't wait to do some repairs on my boat Bimini top. Cheers and wishing you the very best from God.
Wow, thanks so much! Glad you are enjoying the channel!
Started watching your videos a month or so ago. Really informative. Thank you very much. Starting a boat floor rebuild soon and I think your videos have me more confident doing it myself.. Thank you.
Welcome aboard! Glad the videos are helpful!
Love your work Joe, thanks for your advice, going to watch your ‘over plywood’ video because I’m about to glass over a new floor in my boat, a beautiful 1973 Sea Nymph made in New Zealand. Love your accent too btw, very cool.
Wow, thanks! I wish you the very best with your Sea Nymph!
No thank you c joe you have explained yourself very well and taught me some grate tip
Glad to hear it!
Very informative! It is sure nice to be able to use non-toxic regular vinegar to clean up wet epoxy resin.
Great point! Thanks for the comment!
Great Video Capt Joe! Thank you for sharing your time and many talents! All the Best…. Chuck
Thank you very much, I appreciate your comment!
Hey Capt. Joe! Thanks for the great instructional videos. Loved seeing you and Mark running the lagoon in your beautiful new boat!
Thank You so Much! Appreciate You watching! Mark loves the new boat.
I’d enjoy a video on osmotic or hull blister repair. But if I’m picking up what you’re laying down, it sounds like I should start the blister repair with mat, then alternate between 1708 and 1808, finishing with more mat, before proceeding with the rest of the repair.?.
Mat or csm works well with vinyl ester resins, but not so well with epoxy resins. Generally, for below the waterline repairs, you would want to use vinyl ester or epoxy resins for their excellent bonding and moisture blocking characteristics. So your fiberglass selection would depend on which resin you plan to use. 1708 with the csm backer is very popular all around. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
One thing I would mention, internet says, it takes about a gallon of resin, to wet out a yard of 1808. Joe, if I didn't care about looks, could I use complete mat for both layers, and call it done? Then just sand out the edges prior to paint? The Roven is nice, but I'm not going to fiberglass the hull of my my 50' Beneteau
Man, that finishing cloth is transparent, with a nice finish.
Good job capt. Joe
Thank you so much!
Great Channel Joe, Leaned a lot already. Maybe you could do a jetski hull repair video. I know the concepts are the same but it would still be very helpful especially with how contoured the bottom of a jetski is. Keep up the great work my friend. Thank you sir!
Great suggestion!
I have a question for you. You don’t talk about Kevlar material used on a boat. I know some people have used it. Can you explain its properties and the good and bad also you are the newest person I’ve ever seen working this stuff you don’t get a drop on you, it’s amazing. I have that stuff in my hair and my toes and everywhere in between
I do like the ones person comment about you writing a book or putting this in digital form like a e-book. Thanks for all your time. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the suggestions and for watching! Honestly, I don't have any need for materials like Kevlar and carbon fiber for the type of work that I do. It does have applications in very light weight, and high performance parts, but it can be quite expensive and has a learning curve to it. There is a good chance that as the channel grows, I will be able to do a video covering those materials for you all. So stay tuned!
Hey Joe, I’m in the middle of a Bass boat repair and would love to pick your brain regarding the best way to approach the glass repair. The repair is in the stern bilge to stringer seam. Stringers are fiberglass so glass hull to glass stringer. Thank you.
Tim
Sounds great! Thanks for watching
Fantastic content and info, thank you! I'm going to search your channel to see if you've ever demonstrated the best way to make composite fiberglass panels over XPS board, which I'd like to make for a custom RV/camper wall and roof application. Thanks!
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos! We use a lot of Coosa board on the channel. Sorry no xps yet, but I will try to do a Core selection video for you guys soon. Best of luck with your RV project!
Love your work great show
Much appreciated! Thank you!
Hi Joe from the far far far south., the southern tip of african continent, place called Aguhlas. Joined your invaluable series and thoroughly enjoy your hands on case studies as well as your knowledge of all the rawaterials. I have a 9mx2.2m triple hull river barge where the deck ply has separated so I need to replace the entire deck...would love any advice..can email pic if you would like
Rookie here: It is my understanding that "mat" does not work well with epoxy due to the binders in the mat; therefore, can 1708, which does work well with epoxy (?), be used exclusively without applying the mat as a base? I'm preparing to install a reinforcement transom in an old I/O that I'm transitioning to an outboard motor. I'm using 2-pieces of 3/4" plywood for the project and will combine that with the transom already in place....the objective is to extend the transom to the bulkhead and pay special attention to glassing-in the transom ends to the fiberglass hull. I've have already ordered 90-feet x 50" of 1708 and a couple of gallons of "Total Boat" epoxy and slow hardener. I'm in SW Florida and the temps here are now in the mid to upper 80's during the day - humid. It is good protocol to use 1708 exclusively with the epoxy to both seal the plywood transom, add strength and integrity to the wood while also feathering the 1708 to the fiberglass inner hull to counter the forces of the motor on the transom? I'm a little confused concerning the application of mat or strand, which requires a polyester resin (?) and 1708 which works with epoxy for strength. Thank you for your help...much appreciated. Your videos are invaluable.
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Yes, mat does not work as well with epoxy as it does with polyester or vinyl Ester resins. Epoxy doesn't have the solvents in the resin that dissolves the binders in the mat, which makes it a little more difficult to work with. Most 1708 has a layer of 3/4 Oz csm stitched to the backside of the main 45 degree glass strands, but it is not held together with binders like pure csm is. 1708, 1808, and 6 Oz finishing clothe are the most popular fiberglass fabrics when working with epoxy resins. I hope this helps and best of luck with your project!
@@FishBumpTV Thank you for your help!
Go figure I scatter the internet looking for tutorials on how to build a fiberglass subwoofer enclosure for my car with no success on the degree of detail I'm looking for and come to find out I find it and how to fiberglass boats from you the most detailed TH-cam video instruction guide on fiberglass everything thank you
Welcome to the channel! I am glad to hear that you found what you are looking for, and appreciate the level of detail that we put into our videos! Thanks for watching, and I wish you all the best with your subwoofer enclosure!
So much useful information!
I’m trying to reinforce an area to install a winch anchor, the fibreglass is pretty thin where the winch comes, and I was thinking about adding some marine ply and then putting fibreglass over it using matt and 1708.
Would putting a first layer of matt and sticking the ply to it be the best way to bond the ply to the existing fibreglass?
Cheers from Australia.
Hi joe I really need your advice I'm doing a fiberglass pond project the pond will be made off panels they will have to be thick and strong could you advise me on what matting to use I think I'll have to do about 5 layers but your advice would be helpful on what goes on first
Great and helpful videos 🙏
I was wondering; you lay new layers on the already cured fiberglass. What’s the exact process for this? Do you have to sand it down first, or can you simply wet it and put the next layer on?
And how about the primer? Should you prime it and wait for it to get tacky or can you just wet it and get started? - same question for wood that has already gotten primer but cured without fiberglass.
I am starting a project where I will split the work up in sections and I cannot find any clear answers to this online
Your videos have already been a great help and I hope you can help me with this too
Thank you 🙏
I have several videos in our How to Fiberglass over plywood series of videos here on the channel that will be helpful I think. I also offer consulting through our patreon account to help people that need more time and info. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@ thanks for the reply. I’ll check it out
Really appreciate it, thank you 🙏🙏🙏
Wow! I took some amazing points away from this informative video. Thank you l!
That's great, glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching!
Oh I very like it.this's gonna be my first time to do it.thanks for your advice. What is The band name for raising glue that you roll on that?
Glad you enjoyed the video! We usually use a isophthalic polyester resin or vinyl ester resins. Thanks for watching!
When replacing stringers in an old boat (1979 Pennyan) what resin would you use? I have been told that older fiberglass does not adhere to some materials. Thanks for another great video.
There is no one resin that is perfect for all applications. Most boats are built of polyester resins. But once the poly resin has fully cured, you are relying on a mechanical bond, vs a chemical bond when adding new stringers, transom etc. As far as secondary bonding goes, epoxy is the best, followed by vinyl Ester, then polyester. They can all be used with success in certain applications. A clean surface, with VERY aggressive grinder marks or tooth is critical. We get this by using a 24 grit disc on a high speed grinder. Then vacuum the surface, and wipe down with acetone. I plan on doing a video on this topic very soon. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Ok I will try to make this as short as possible. I am working a Stratos late 80's and they used mostly woven-roven on stringers and I think that is where a lot of failures come from because of where it is woven seems that it created holes that water could get through and the quality of the fiberglassing was poor. In your professional opinion which I value highly! how many layers of 1708 would you use to equal woven-roven on the stringers and other places that they have used it. I want to use only 1708 and chopped strand. My stringers are so bad that there is just a skeleton of fiberglass with a few chunks of wood in the bottom of them. I will use all of the techniques I have learned from you to make this boat better than it ever was. I will be using only Coosa board for it. To sum it all up I think you have the best boat repair DIY videos on TH-cam and I commend you for starting this channel. Thanks so much and have a great day!
Glad you are enjoying the videos on the channel and finding them helpful! We used 3 layer of 1708 on each side of the Coosa stringers on our 29, and it is very solid. Be sure to consider the quality of the resin as well. A quality isophthalic polyester laminating resin, or even better a vinyl Ester resin is really going to help improve the strength and quality of the job. I hope this helps and wish we the best with your restoration project!
Wondeful content Joe! I have a question about too much resin though. You pointed out the problems with too much resin with 6oz. cloth but what about the other materials that were used? You said not to have pooling of resin but I’m not sure why. Is it a structural issue or just wastage?
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos! You want the fiberglass to be saturated but not oversaturated because Resin by itself can be quite brittle. Resin Oversaturation or puddling also adds extra weight and cost without any benefits. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
Captain Joe!!
I love watching your videos. Learning a ton. Much appreciate your work ethic and the family heritage for boat building is also outstanding.
Quick question. I am restoring a 1981 TMI Sailboat (Chrysler design) and have large areas such as in the sail lockers and settees that need mat and woven or 1708 to restabilze the surface to re-gelcoat. I know epoxy covers nearly all, but I would like to use vinylester or polyester resin - For economy of material mainly. How do I know if the original resin by manufacturer is compatible with vinylester or polyester resin?
Thank you
Glad you are enjoying the videos! The vast majority of fiberglass boats ever built are going to be polyester resin. Probably only 5 percent or less are built with epoxy. There is not any easy way that I know of to test your boat, but I can almost guarantee that it is polyester. So using a good quality iso polyester laminating resin or vinyl Ester resin should work well. There are links below our video descriptions if you would like to use the same kinds of resin we use in our videos. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Are you using epoxy or polyester resin .great video
Very clear presentation. From Tampa.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate your comment!
Really enjoy your channel, keep it up. I personally would level both sides and round them off more and maybe double ply.
Thanks! The piece we fiberglassed was just for demonstration purposes. If it was going in a boat, yes you would encapsulate it completely in glass. Hope this clarifies what we did. Appreciate you watching!
Hey Joe a 3' deep 16' x 40' barge type bottom for a house boat. How much resin would I need please.
That's a good question. Different Temps, plywood, type of glass fabric and how many layers as well as the person doing the work could all have an effect on how much resin you could use on a job like that. You can usually figure on approx 2 to 3 Oz of resin used per Sq ft covered with 1 layer of 1708 biaxial. Based on your Diminsions you are looking at 880 or so Sq ft. Let's round up to 900 Sq ft x 3 Oz per Sq ft on the high end would be 2700 ozs divided by 128 Oz per gallon would be 21 gallons of resin used approximately for one layer.I would recommend at least 2 or 3 layers of biaxial with a finish coat of csm or mat as well, for a vessel this size. This is just just my opinion of course! And a ballpark estimate. You should do your own calculations and research, as well as talk to your local fiberglass and resin suppliers. Safety is always a factor on a project like this so you may also want to pay for some more technical advice from a boat builder marine surveyor or boat repairman in your area. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Hey great videos can you do one replacing a transom and stringers actually in a boat
Glad you are enjoying the videos! We will be replacing stringers, transom and the floor in our 21 foot Blazer project boat after the hardtop build. So stay tuned and thanks for watching!
Great content Joe 👍👍
Thanks 👍I really appreciate you watching and commenting!
Could you show how you would take an older boat with thin flimsy flooring or walls and strengthen them with fresh fiberglass?
I'd really appreciate the advice and help with that.
Thank you
Sure! I have a 21 ft center console project boat that needs new floors, stringers, transom ect that we will be starting a new series of videos on soon. I actually posted a couple videos on it before I started the hardtop build series of videos. So stay tuned and thanks for watching!
What’s best board material is best fl to use for bottom of homemade flats boat . Ply,coosa,0r honeycomb with fiberglass over all of them
I really like Coosa board a lot. That's what we used in the floor and stringer of our custom 29 that we built on this channel. You might enjoy those videos. Thanks for watching!
Excellent.
Thanks! Much appreciated!
Iam building a plywood aquarium soon this helps thanks.
Best of luck with your project, and thanks for watching!
wow nice video! I can use all the help I can get with fiberglass. I do have a question about the choosing the right fiberglass video. I assume you're using polyester resin with your demonstrations?
Thanks! Yes, we are using polyester resin in that video. I also have some videos working with epoxy also. There are some different techniques we use when working with the two different resins. Hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
Great Video as always!!! Can you please explain what you mean by “finishing cloth”…..Thanks!!!
Thanks Capt! Sure, the 6oz fiberglass cloth is generally used for just sealing or finishing out raw wood. We use it in applications like epoxy over plywood skiffs for example. It is quite expensive per pound compared to other fabrics and builds up thickness very slow compared to csm and roven or biaxials. Hope this answers your question. Appreciate you watching and commenting, it helps the channel!
@@FishBumpTV that’s exactly what I needed to know!!!! Thanks!!!!
Would chop strand be okay to use on the exterior of a wooden boat instead of the 6oz finishing cloth?
Yes, you can use chopped strand mat if you are going to use polyester or vinyl Ester resins for your job. If you are going to use epoxy resin, I would go with the 6 Oz clothe or 1708 biaxial. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thanks, bro that's very helpful
Glad to help and I appreciate you watching!
I wrote you before about bonding an epoxy coated material to a polyester fiberglass hull. I am now preparing to bond two pieces of epoxy coated material together. Your video shows the use of 403 and 406 into the resin. My concern is added thickness/separation . My overall thickness is critical. Why not just use epoxy only for bonding?
The thickened epoxy resin is stronger and stays in place better than unthickened epoxy in my opinion, but I am just showing you guys how we do things in our shop. If you don't think it will work for your application you should do what you feel most comfortable with, or do some test panels to see if it will work for you.
Excellent
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
I may have missed it, but when you say "primer coat" are you allowing it to completely dry before adding layers? Also, if you are allowing it to fully harden, are you abrading the primer coat before starting the next step? Again, apologize if I missed it but I am very new with fiberglass and there is so much information and techniques to learn. Thanks for your videos, they are the easiest for me to follow/understand than some of the other creators.
Yes, I usually let the primer coat cure. Then you can sand it lightly just to knock down any small imperfections. Glad you are finding the videos helpful, and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
I heard in order to add a layer to old cured you need to sand to abrade. But with "new" there is an open time when you can apply another layer and the epoxy will adhere. Is this epoxy and not a poly resin issue, or not an issue at all?
Hello, great job. What resin do you use? I'm doing a restoration of a Coronado 25.
There are several different types of resin available, but there isn't really a one resin for every situation answer. I currently use a lot of the vinyl ester resin from fiberglass warehouse. It is a great, all around resin that covers a broad range of applications. I do have a resin selection guide video here on the channel that you might find helpful. Fiberglass warehouse is also offering a discount code for fish bump tv viewers, so be sure to take advantage of that and save some money. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@FishBumpTV Thank you very much for your answer. I will definitely use your advice.
As always, great video, Joe..!!! 👌
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Great video. I built a 16’ runabout with plans from Glen-L but I used epoxy. The restore project I’m working on(1979 Checkmate), I used epoxy because I was familiar with it plus I needed the work time. Transom, stringers and floor. 1708 with epoxy. Do you ever use epoxy?
)
Thanks! Glen L has some really nice plans, but I have never built one of their boats. I have designed and built several stitch and glue , epoxy over plywood skiffs that were fun to build. I plan on doing a poly vs vinyl vs epoxy video soon. Maybe cover the pros and cons of each. I would appreciate your thoughts and feedback on future content. Maybe we will do some epoxy work soon. Appreciate you watching!
Have you ever made stringers with foam or hollow stringers? I have seen videos of people doing it that way. What are your thoughts on that?
Maybe on a small or light craft, but I prefer Coosa or laminated plywood on larger boats. Thanks for watching!
Your awesome, a excellent teacher
Glad you think so! I appreciate your comment!
You need to write a book (paper and digital(digital needs links to these videos in each chapter)).
Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!
Awesome video! You just earned yourself a subscriber
Welcome aboard! Thanks so much!
Joe, are you familiar with the product Plascore, a honeycomb material made by Plascore, Inc, in Zeeland, Michigan, and if so would it be a good substrate for fiber glassing a boat deck? Your time and consideration is apreciated.
Sorry, I am not familiar with that product. I am a big fan of the Coosa board that we used to build our 29 ft charter boats. We have had really good performance out of it! Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Thanks ❤❤❤❤
No problem!
Content suggestion - I would like to see how to mix your own putty and fillers using polyester and silica and/or glass balloons, fibre cut offs or what nots. I am a bit confused with all the ready made products with brands and product names. Please explain in depth how to use the different additives and when. That would really be of great help.
Thanks for the suggestion.I do have a video showing epoxy with different additives. You can basically do the same thing with polyester and vinyl Ester. Thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Seen it, good one! It is all about demystifying. Buying cans is no fun. Forgot to say, you are the best demystifier channel yet! Have a nice day sir!
I believed it should be noted that you cannot used CSM with epoxy because it is held together with styrene but you can use 1708 because it is stich no styrene. 🙂
Thanks for the suggestion. It can be challenging to cover every variable when doing videos like these. I plan on doing a poly vs vinyl vs epoxy resin video soon. I will make a special note to cover csm's incompatibility with epoxy resins. Appreciate you watching
thank you
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Building two skegs for a catamaran, they are about 27"x12" i made them with coosa board 1/2" that will be the core. They will be mounted to 4"x27" base. Then bolted to the hulls by the base. What fiberglass cover should i use to cover these fins with so they hold well to the base? I was thinking 2 layers of 1708 and and extra 6" wide tape joint of 1708 on the angle area where they connect to the base. There are pretty heavy side loads when sailing and probably when turning too.
I remember you saying not to use CSM with epoxy, so for my little boat project, what should I start with? So far I have the plywood shell and tomorrow I buy the epoxy and fibre glass. What's your recommendation? I need this thing really durable really water proof
1708 biaxial works good with epoxy resin as does the 6 Oz clothe. 1708 is thicker, heavier material. 6 Oz is smoother and lighter. The how to choose the right fiberglass video and the how to fiberglass over plywood videos should have some of the info you need as well. I plan on doing a epoxy on plywood video very soon. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Another great vid..do I need to use a 1708 for my stringers, would 3 layers of 600 CSM be sufficient ?
Thanks! We always use 1708 in structural applications like stringers, transons, bulkheads etc. It is just a much stronger material. The csm is good for initial bonding, waterproofing, and finish cosmetics. Hope this helps and we appreciate you watching
Great video man, keep it up. I have a question, what should I use to repair a crack transom with 1708, should I do Epoxy or Poly resin?
Thanks
Thank you for your videos. I have cut the back out of my '77 Grady White 17' (bad transom). I saved the back panel to put over new plywood. Should I use CSM or 1708 (have both) to cover the cut? Will grind a bevel and plan to use polyester resin then cover with gelcoat. Any help would be appreciated.
Glad you are enjoying the videos! The 1708 biaxial is going to be the stronger of the two materials. The csm is good for initial bonding and finish cosmetics. You should use the materials where there best qualities will work for you. We plan on doing more structural fiberglass videos soon as it is much easier to discuss best techniques and options that way. Hopes this helps, thanks for watching!
Genius and generous!!! THX
Wow, thanks!
Can you use just 1708 biaxule on stringers since it already had mat on the back?
Sure, 1708 or 1808 could work with stringers. I have a how-to fiberglass over plywood video here on the channel that shows exactly how I would use 1708 on a stringer. I also have a whole series of videos documenting the build of our 29 ft center console that you see in the background. Lots of fiberglass work showcased in that series. I will also be replacing the transom, floor, and stringers in our project boat that we are currently working on. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Where or how would you recommend me getting a significant portion of material in a cost effective way to rebuild a 17ft boat?
I would check out fiberglass warehouse. That is where I am getting most of my supplies. They are also offering a 15 percent discount code for fish bump tv viewers. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks my brother
you mentioned on working with fiberglass, kay down CSM first then woven roving, would it be safe if we do CSM then woven roving then another woven roving then biaxial or just alternate the material like CSM then woven roving then biaxial? thank you. please reply.
The only fiberglass fabric that you should not laminate on itself over and over again is woven roven. If you have csm and roven to work with, you would always start with csm then roven then csm etc. You would always want to start and finish with csm on any project when you are also using roven. With 1708 and 1808 you can stack them on themselves over and over again with no problem. With 1708 and 1808 you can use csm on the last layer as a better cosmetic finish. You can also use layer after layer of csm stacked on itself with no bonding issues, it just will not be as strong as alternating layers of csm first then roven then csm. You may want to watch the video How to fiberglass over plywood, which we just did it should be helpful.. I also offer consulting on an hourly fee for folks that need more of my time. Hope that helps ,and good luck with your project!
thanks sir, I am enlightened of your reply. God bless you.
@@jojinapigkit4680 glad to help
please break down the cost comparison between mat and 1730 including the strength vs cost of resin . I am sure that in your business, the performance vs the cost comes into play. please note that less resin is more strength per pound of product. The strongest layups are vacuum bagged to minimize resin.
We may be able to add some of that kind of info into future videos. Thanks for watching!
So your not pulling from a mold or? Either way your take on wood in the boat?
Do I need to turn my fiberglass boat over to do repairs on 1ft crack below the water line. Also, do I need to use epoxy resin?
It is easier to do repair work right side up if that is an option. If it is a smaller boat, I would turn it over. If the damage is below the waterline that makes it more critical, Could be structural damage. Damaged glass should be removed, and new glass applied. We don't currently have a video detailing that process, but hope to have one soon. Yes, epoxy is the premium choice for that kind of repair, followed by vinyl and polyester resins. Hope this helps, good luck with your project!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks my brother. This is extremely helpful.
Hey Joe, what glass and what layering would you recommend to replace my stringers with styrofoam or EPS?
There are many different ways stringers can be built. I imagine the original stringer were lumber or plywood and they rotted out. If that is the case I would go back with Coosa board in the same thickness as the original, or slightly thicker. Two layers glued and screwed together with with the joints staggered is the way to go. On most boats 3 layer of 1708 with the edges staggered works good in most cases. We have a video or two where we are working on the stringers and glassing them in our boatbuilding series that might be helpful. Stringers are not an area to take shortcuts or skimp on materials, so always a good idea to go on the heavy duty side of things. Of course these are just suggestions, and every boat is different. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
What kind of resin used on the chopped mat
I like a vinyl Ester or a iso polyester laminating resin when working with csm. Epoxy doesn't work that great with csm, in my opinion. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I'm going to be replacing a plywood floor in my bowrider. What glass do you recommend?
1 layer of 1708 biaxial, followed by a layer of 1oz csm is what I put on the floor of our 29. We doubled that amount in all of the corners for strength. The vinyl ester resin from fiberglass warehouse would work very good for that application. Of course you could put down more glass than that, but I wouldn't put down any less. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thanks for the quick reply! Did not expect that. I'll run with that. Appreciate it.
thank you man !
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I got one ? Jw which one would be best used for stringers on a 1979 bass boat running from the the bow to the stern to the back of the boat to the transom cause I'm redo them and the transom in it?
We use alot of the 1708 fiberglass fabric. It works well for us. Hope this helps and best of luck with your project!
@FishBumpTV
it does and thank you so much and also love your videos they help alot ppl out alot.
OK just one other ? Do I do the csm too and then 1708 or just 1708 jw cause what I've seen on videos they do the 3 layers csm and 3 layers of 1708 so do I do that? Or just 1708
@@Billy_M_Gamer It doesn't hurt to start with csm, but most 1708 has a layer of csm on one side already. It can be done both ways with good results. I hope this helps
you mention 1oz. CSM. I have been using 1.5 oz. and sometimes 2oz. Csm. should i be using 1oz? i hope this isnt a stupid question. but yes i have some trouble with conforming to bends.
I like the 1 Oz because it works out much easier in my opinion, and remember that csm doesn't work as well with epoxy resin as it does with polyester and vinyl ester resins. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV thank you, I've only used polyester. I want to try epoxy sometime though. I will order a roll of 1708 biaxial to try as well. Thanks again!
They've also got 3/4 oz csm