Hi Captain Joe! If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a demo video is worth a thousand pictures! Awesome information! Thank you so much! All the best from California!🧡
Fish Bump TV University.... Joe your videos go where no man has gone before. Thanks for being so comprehensive with your video content, and targeting the most important subjects for those building or rebuilding anything related to composite material construction. Well done... Joe in Augusta, we got hit pretty hard up here from the Hurricane, looks like a war zone. We managed to get to our kids home in Atlanta the day of the Hurricane as soon as a route was cleared enough for us to make it out. I hope your situation is ok and all family is doing well. Take care....
I'm glad you guys are safe, and I'm sorry to hear that you all got hit so hard over there! We are on the far western edge of it all over here, so there is no damage at all for us. We aren't out of the woods yet with this hurricane season, though. As always, I appreciate everyone out there who's been following the channel and hope the DIY content might help some folks out there with their storm related repairs.
Joe, I'm going to do my best here to share what I did with 2 part foam and fiberglass, but it is hard to explain... Imagine a boat like a Boston Whaler with seats and such molded into the upper fiberglass section. Now imagine that the foam poured between the hull and upper seat/decks section did not fill all of the available space, but that space (those spaces) were intended to be closed up. This describes the boat I am restoring (it is an inboard power version of a Skipper 20 sailboat) The previous owner cut holes in the vertical seat walls to create storage spaces. The "inside bottoms" of these sea areas was the inside of the hull. The seat/deck section had gaps/spaces that allowed warer to down into the deck/hull gaps. The water that got into those holes now had nowhere to go. Over time, this waterlogged the trapped foam. With some strategic draining and drying (over months) I got to a point where I could start fixing things. I did not want to lose the storage, but it had to be done differently. I cut new access lids into the seat tops. I fiberglassed the holes in the vertical sections. I poured new/additional foam into the storage areas so it could fill the gaps. I shaped the cured foam (miserable job) so the floor of the storage areas was higher than the deck/sole outside the storage area. My objective was to then glass over the foam to create these storage areas. I would later add drain holes through the side wall so water could drain onto the sole and eventually to the proper bilge. The issue was that the foam expanded and cured in such a way that the edges and corners had deep gaps. I used deep pour epoxy to fill those areas and close up the forest the shaped foam. I was then able to glass the floors of the storage areas. Anyhow, I thought this was a worth sharing.
Thanks so much! We try to add helpful info all through the videos, not just the first couple minutes. Your support and encouragement of the channel is much appreciated!
Im redoing a fiberglass bed cap for my truck they dont offer anymore and i strictly use your videos to answer my questions or for tips and tricks. So far its working out great
Great video Captain no TH-cam channel has gone so deep in technics and applications before in regards to boat building, your last 4 videos are a perfect example of it, I am glad I found your channel because it has helped me immensely and I'm sure it will be the reference for thousands of people from now on. Looking forward to see the installation of the hardtop and see trial to compare and gauge the difference before and after. Let's go fishing 🎣.
Wow, thanks! I'm glad to hear that you are finding the videos to be helpful! Yes, it will be exciting to get the hardtop installed, I just don't know exactly when that will be. I sure do appreciate everyone's support and encouragement. Thank you for watching!
WOW Capt. Joe, this video just answered a question I sent you on a previous video! THANKYOU! I have another question; I was taught to lay down the media (resin) then apply the glass and let it soak up thru. Have not yet seen that except on the plywood, but then you added more wedia (resin). A huge differance between your work and the school is that you are "doing it" on a large scale . . .vs . . .Let's not do anything bigger than (usually) 1 sq ft! Again, MANY THANKS! Looking fwd to see if you have any vacuum glassing video's!
That's awesome, I'm glad to hear that you are finding the videos helpful! I plan to do some vacuum bagging in the future, so stay tuned and I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
Thanks, I'm glad you are enjoying the videos! It's hard to say for sure. It would depend on exactly how it is being used in the deer blind. If it's non structural and you want to use epoxy resin, the xps foam might be good. For structural purposes, the Coosa board or Divinycell are great. You might want to just take a few minutes and scroll through our channels videos, I am sure you will find some useful info. Appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
I’ve restored a few whalers as well as my current pro line project. I use Last A Foam to make custom radar arches, stringers, decks and fish boxes. The foam machines really well on the CNC and is compatible with all resins. Just choose the density required for your project and glass on.
Joe, great video. I experimented with the purple XPS foam. Built a plug, rolled a coat of PPG "Gripper" water based primer on it, added a layer of fiberglass window screen mesh while it was wet, then after the primer dried I added 2 more coats of primer, waxed the plug with couple coats of release wax, sprayed one coat of PVA and built an offshore outboard bracket with Vinylester resin and the plug was unaffected by the resin. Definitely fun experimenting
Your videos have been just what have been looking for. They are applicable to more than just boat building. I am going to repair a shower pan. My plan was drill some holes pour some marine grade expansion foam to give it some support then fiberglass and gel coat over it with a roller. Thanks
Glad the videos are helpful! Sounds like a plan! Just remember that 2 part polyurethane foam have a tremendous amount of power when it is expanding. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Hey Capt. Joe! thanks for being a great resource as I built my 18' Flats Skiff. I am about to start filling my below deck compartments with foam, and i was curious if you think it would be a good idea to put some epoxy on top of the foam to add another layer of waterproofing?i don't think a layer of fiberglass would be necessary, but i'd be curious to hear what you think. Thanks again for the great videos! these have helped me a TON!
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos! I don't think it's a bad idea at all to seal the foam surface. I have done that in the past with boats I have built and restored.
I have an application where it would be advantageous to remove the foam core after an outer (multiple layer) fiberglass shell has been constructed around it-for a one-off, light weight structure. Is there a chemical (acetone perhaps?) that might be used to dissolve the foam after the construction is complete? Thanks for for your professional, well-done presentations. I've been glued to my computer screen ever since I discovered your channel two weeks ago. A suggestion for a future topic: carbon fiber and kevlar in place of fiberglass. I'm a velomobile enthusiast (recumbent, tricycle, pedal and electric-motor-powered transportation vehicles that are shrouded in an aerodynamic shell -thus my primary interest in your work.
You could, in theory, use epoxy resin over xps type foam or Styrofoam. Then use a solvent like acetone to dissolve the foam. I think that using sandpaper, a scraper, or a wire wheel would be the best way to remove the bulk of the foam materials first. A good shop vacuum would really help keep airborne particles down, or a vacuum assisted sander like the festool that we are currently using in the shop. Some small-scale experimentation on your side, before you tackle the actual part that you want to build, is always a good idea. I hope this helps and thanks for watching and commenting!
Good morning, your channel is very good and professional. I have a question. I am making the floor of my commercial boat, and they told me that I could put fiber to the starbor, PVC. What do you think about this? Thanks in advance.
Thanks, I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying the videos! There are lots of different possible resin, fiberglass, and core options out there, and new products are constantly coming out. With that being said, it's hard to know for sure if your combo could work out well without some testing or speaking to someone in detail who has used it before. I do offer patreon for people who need consulting on their projects. Maybe with more info, I could point you in the right direction. I wish you all the best, and I appreciate you watching!
Yes Joe you really show just how versatile the foam and resin can be and allows creative thinking to flow and what someone can build out of such materials. You got me thinking how l can build a light weight boat.🧐
I build custom kids planesvtovride in. Your videos save me alot of hassles in the long run...especially enjoy the tests...helps me knowbwhatvroute to take during builds
Great video as always and an interesting experiment! I have a followup for you, how would it be to fiberglass over the easily available boards with different resins. How would it react and more interesting, how easily would it delaminate? Maybe, what will the sandwich strength be?
I have chosen to go with a polyester gelcoat paste to fill cracks and small holes in my hull. Everyone kept telling me to use epoxy or puddle but I wanted to use original materials that I could sand easily and gelcoat over. I would definitely use epoxy for some structural repairs though.
Thanks! I don't know if a hot wire will work with polyurethane foam or not. I have never seen anyone do that. I would be cautious if you are going to try it. Wish I had more for you on that one. Appreciate you watching!
I'm glad you enjoyed the videos! The Coosa board in the Bluewater 26 pound density is an amazing product. It is designed to be a marine plywood replacement. I used it exclusively in the build of our custom 29 ft center console that you see in the background of our videos. I have 25 videos documenting the build of the 29 and another video on working with Coosa board here on the channel that you might find very interesting. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Hey Joe, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I would like to ask you about flanges. I’m a saddle maker in Australia. I’m starting to explore making my saddle trees with these pour foam and fiber glass. I started working on my plug once that done I will need to make flanges to be able to bolt the mould together to then pour the foam and will expand it the shape of my saddle tree. Do you have any information already or would you be willing to share some of your techniques about making flanges. Please and thank you so much your knowledge so far has helped me so much I will for forever great full
Interesting line of work that you are involved in! Some molds are very simple, and others are quite complex. I really don't know a lot about saddle making, so I'm a little in the dark on this one. I do have some videos back in our 29ft boat build series of videos that show me building the console and seat base for our 29. And of course, our hardtop mold building series. Maybe the answer is in there. If not, I will try to do some research. Maybe you can comment back after watching and let me know. I will also be opening up some of our patreon spots very soon. That allows me to consult directly with you via phone calls and emails. I wish you the very best with your project, and thanks for watching all of the way from Australia 🇦🇺!
Excellent presentation; learned a lot; and interested in applying it to fabricating a structural foam carbon fiber chassis for an automotive application. Again Thank You
Thanks Joe, I really enjoyed this one! My camper project is on hold until I finish my subframe, but I’m trying to soak up all the information I can on the use of foam and fiberglass for building structural components. One question, I’ve noticed most builders follow foam with CSM, is that for structural reason or aesthetics? I build a 2’x2’ sample 2” thick using 2 layers of 1720 and 6# polyurethane foam and it appears to be fine. I used a router sled to flatten the side that wasn’t in the mold and short of using more resin on the first layer of 1720 I didn’t notice any issues. Should I plan on using CSM before 1720? I don’t care about the way it looks cause it will be on the inside of the camper and will be covered with some form of paneling.
I'm glad you are enjoying the videos! Csm seems to bond very well on the initial coat, and I do think that it has a nice look when finishing out. Just remember that csm doesn't behave with epoxy resin like it does with polyester and vinyl ester resins. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching
Should there be “weep holes” or drains through the stringers/bulkheads in the compartment filled with foam, or should you try to seal these compartments off as much as possible?
What do you think of white pvc foam? Do you think it's a good material to build a boat? How it's compared to the other foams? What type of resin should I use?
Did you use some sort of release agent on that container? I've used that pour foam before and it sticks to EVERYTHING. I'm planning on fiberglassing my bathroom subfloor so I have been watching your videos to prepare. You make it seem easy and almost relaxing but i know that anytime i work with something that has a limited working time i am stressed out, i always forget something in the prep phase, and i wind up with material everywhere.
No, I didn't use any kind of release agent. The little clear bins came straight from Lowes. I always try to lay everything out beforehand and mentally run through every step of the job. Having a nice work table on wheels that you can position near your work is also a big help. Having grown up using these materials my whole life also gives me a high comfort level working with these materials. That will happen for you all as well. The more you work with it, the easier it will get for you. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV I try to think of everything but I always forget something. Fiberglass is definitely something that I want to add to my skill set but I don't plan on doing enough to get to your level. I'm more in the jack of all trades category. While I wish I could be a master of all trades I think the best I can hope for is competency in each. If it weren't for people like you, thunderhead289, essential craftsman, mrpete222, adept ape, abom79, stud pack, and many more it just wouldn't be possible. Books can only go so far and few tradesmen would ever bother trying to pass on their knowledge that way. While the printing press was a huge leap forward the Internet allows average people to share their knowledge. Of course you have to filter out the noise that comes with that but how else can you learn so much so fast? People may spend their entire career in one trade, watch a few TH-cam videos, and learn something they never knew.
My dad built boats with marine grade Douglas fir plywood back in the late 50’s to early 60’s. He covered the bottom and deck with fiberglass. Many of those boats are still around. To me that suggests that marine grade plywood is certainly not “garbage”. If a boat is constructed of plywood with skill and care it can still be a very fine boat that lasts a long time.
Joe, you are a Modest man.... The beauty of youtube is anyone and everyone can view your or anyones videos, and I bet or I can see a guy from a boat Co. like Azimut, or Sunseeker watching and being like, Hhhmmmmm, I am going in monday and telling my guys to Get this method down!
I appreciate that! You know, you might be right! I guess it's all good though. Glad to share what I know with you all and happy to see the channel growing!
The idea I just had is creating foam shaped, fiberglass shelled solar panel mounts and fiberglass encased, water-resistant wood frames for the solar panels. People are creating arches over the cockpit for mounting solar cells. But if you go that high you going to need a pretty firm structure. I am more thinking over the cabin of the boat and only a few inches up. But there is a lot of those kind of things happening.
Those three structural foams to the left are perfect if your looking to sandwich it between two layers of S-fiberglass/epoxy for a DIY 24 foot boat to circumnavigate the globe. Great way too add thickness to your thin hull and presumably the foam also has good? heat insulation properties too...
Yes, I recently did a very in-depth 13 part series detailing the build of the pattern, mold, and complete custom hardtop for our custom 29ft center console. The series covers every detail of the mold building process. Hopefully, it's what you are looking for. Thanks for watching
Haha, I hear ya! I'm glad I can share what my boat building family has learned over the years with the TH-cam community! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I bought some Foamular and Bondo fiberglass from Home Depot, but ended up melting parts of the foam board. When i tried to fiber glass it. I wish I had seen this video yesterday!
Hi Captain Joe How about PVC foam board? I plan to use it as flooring for the boat console. The plan is to laminate it with poly resin and csm. What is your opinion ok this method?
Sure, PVC foam board that is designed for structural marine applications can be a great material. Just do plenty of research, and maybe some testing before you start your project. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I'm looking to an alternative to 'stitch and glue' build up for a small sailing dinghy. I was wonder if some form of fiberglass, foam and resin might have some advantages...perhaps 1. Cheaper, 2. Easier to build 3. More Floatation 4. Lighter. Any thoughts if this is a good idea? Or, should I just stick with marine plywood and 'stitch and glue'? Thanks
Nidacore honeycomb core is about the cheapest core material available. It weighs almost nothing and is super strong after fiberglass is laid over it. You can lay one layer of chapped strand or surfboard cloth over it and still bend it into shape. Tape the seams instead of stitch, with big gaps between tape. Fill the gaps with thickened resin to hold it together, then remove the tape and glue the gaps with the same thickened resin and fiberglass a bunch of layers over the completed shape.
Sounds interesting! I have built several stitch and glue style skiffs before, and it is pretty hard to beat plywood for strength and cost. I think coosa board could be good, but it costs considerably more. Some testing on your end could be a good idea though. Hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
@@ninehundreddollarluxuryyac5958 Thanks for your suggestions. Would Nicadore and fiberglass have any advantages for me regarding cost, weight, buoyancy or ease of build?
Hi Captain, I'm glad you guys are okay. I was worried about you guys. Damn Joe I never really realized how in shape you are. Your actually pretty buffed. That shirt hides it pretty well but I can tell. I guess when you battle game fish and work as hard as you do all the time you get pretty buffed. Sorry for going completely off topic but it just hit me😂.
Haha, I try to stay active, man! Our lifestyle helps, I think, and enjoying what you do is a big part of it! I appreciate you all so much. Watching and commenting is very encouraging!
My dad used to have a company making Polyurethane kit (not yacht based). When he was sorting the mixture out he would stick enough into a plant pot type vase. There would be enough that it would expand and just overflow enough to make a mushroom shape. Quick spray over that with white for the "stalk" and red paint over the top with a bunch of white spay dots.......sold them to the local garden centre for more than he'd have got for throwing the test pieces in the bin 😆 My concern is how Polyurethane these days handles any "sweat". Although it is water proof it can rot with any water ingress. Too many people insulate their homes with Polyurethane and it's just going to cause issues. Hopefully this Polyurethane doesn't have those issues (I'm 30yrs out of date when it comes to Polyurethane)
Interesting story. Thanks for sharing! Modern foams are better than they used to be, but still have to be used and installed properly for the best performance. Just hope the videos can help take some of the mystery out of the process. Thanks for watching!
The foam comes in spray cans too. You can use masking tape to close off areas and spray foam in through a hole in the tape to fill in an void or hollow area. It takes almost nothing to hold a bunch of foam in place to build up an area, then sand back to the shape you want once its hard.
Very nice, so as to summarize: Poly ISO = good for all resins, XPS Pink = epoxy only, EPS = do not use. Airex, Divinycell, Coosa = good for all. Is that about right?
Theoretically, yes. You might want to experiment with something small first. Just to be sure, it could be right for your application. Thanks for watching!
Very cool, I think that could work! My family loves some shaved ice. Now you've got me wanting a pina colada with some condensed milk! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yes, we are all good down our way. Thanks for checking in on us! I feel terrible for the folks who were directly in the path of this one. What a mess, especially up in the mountains!
What surfaces does that foam NOT stick to? The reason why I'm asking is I would like to create a foam structure, strengthen it with fiberglass then spray gel coat over it. And I don't know if I should spray the gel coat first on a waxy surface then while it's tacky add the fiberglass and then the spray foam in a framed enclosure? Or the reverse... make the foam wall then do the fiberglass then the gel coat. What do you think [if you don't mind asking you advice]?
@@FiberglassWarehouse thank you. I just did a test piece where I laid down some plastic and I made a fiberglass mesh resin wafer. It came off the plastic pretty easy and I was left with a nice flat wafer ish thing. Which is cool I'm thinking. Because I can put spray foam sandwich between two of these pieces sort of like a smores ha ha
What about the PVC foam? Am interested in a boat made with a PVC foam sandwiched between fiberglass in 1974. The boat has some blistering. Should I be concerned?
But there will be no adhesion between the resin and the foam - the resin will stick to the paint and the paint to the foam, so the adhesion of the paint will be the weakest link in the chain, not very ideal..
@@daiquiri. Wouldn't the weak link be the foam itself? I have made planter boxes using that foam, wood glue, and old sheets. While I have had some flex under weight, I have not had any failures yet to say where it fails. But I would bet the foam, not the joint.
Came across this by accident. I wasn't at all disappointed. Great information.
Fantastic, welcome to the channel! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Once again, thanks a lot to Joe & Logan, for all the time, information, knowledge and passion you share with us. It is a real treat from you to us.
Our pleasure! I'm glad you are enjoying the videos!
Hi Captain Joe!
If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a demo video is worth a thousand pictures! Awesome information! Thank you so much!
All the best from California!🧡
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate the encouraging words!
Fish Bump TV University.... Joe your videos go where no man has gone before. Thanks for being so comprehensive with your video content, and targeting the most important subjects for those building or rebuilding anything related to composite material construction. Well done... Joe in Augusta, we got hit pretty hard up here from the Hurricane, looks like a war zone. We managed to get to our kids home in Atlanta the day of the Hurricane as soon as a route was cleared enough for us to make it out. I hope your situation is ok and all family is doing well. Take care....
I'm glad you guys are safe, and I'm sorry to hear that you all got hit so hard over there! We are on the far western edge of it all over here, so there is no damage at all for us. We aren't out of the woods yet with this hurricane season, though. As always, I appreciate everyone out there who's been following the channel and hope the DIY content might help some folks out there with their storm related repairs.
Joe, I'm going to do my best here to share what I did with 2 part foam and fiberglass, but it is hard to explain...
Imagine a boat like a Boston Whaler with seats and such molded into the upper fiberglass section. Now imagine that the foam poured between the hull and upper seat/decks section did not fill all of the available space, but that space (those spaces) were intended to be closed up. This describes the boat I am restoring (it is an inboard power version of a Skipper 20 sailboat)
The previous owner cut holes in the vertical seat walls to create storage spaces. The "inside bottoms" of these sea areas was the inside of the hull. The seat/deck section had gaps/spaces that allowed warer to down into the deck/hull gaps. The water that got into those holes now had nowhere to go. Over time, this waterlogged the trapped foam.
With some strategic draining and drying (over months) I got to a point where I could start fixing things.
I did not want to lose the storage, but it had to be done differently.
I cut new access lids into the seat tops. I fiberglassed the holes in the vertical sections. I poured new/additional foam into the storage areas so it could fill the gaps. I shaped the cured foam (miserable job) so the floor of the storage areas was higher than the deck/sole outside the storage area.
My objective was to then glass over the foam to create these storage areas. I would later add drain holes through the side wall so water could drain onto the sole and eventually to the proper bilge.
The issue was that the foam expanded and cured in such a way that the edges and corners had deep gaps.
I used deep pour epoxy to fill those areas and close up the forest the shaped foam. I was then able to glass the floors of the storage areas.
Anyhow, I thought this was a worth sharing.
That sounds like an interesting project. Thanks for sharing your experience with the channel!
Joe anyone that starts watching your videos always goes to the end . You fill it with so much info it’s fabulous
Thanks so much! We try to add helpful info all through the videos, not just the first couple minutes. Your support and encouragement of the channel is much appreciated!
Im redoing a fiberglass bed cap for my truck they dont offer anymore and i strictly use your videos to answer my questions or for tips and tricks. So far its working out great
That's fantastic, glad to help! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video Captain no TH-cam channel has gone so deep in technics and applications before in regards to boat building, your last 4 videos are a perfect example of it, I am glad I found your channel because it has helped me immensely and I'm sure it will be the reference for thousands of people from now on. Looking forward to see the installation of the hardtop and see trial to compare and gauge the difference before and after. Let's go fishing 🎣.
Wow, thanks! I'm glad to hear that you are finding the videos to be helpful! Yes, it will be exciting to get the hardtop installed, I just don't know exactly when that will be. I sure do appreciate everyone's support and encouragement. Thank you for watching!
WOW Capt. Joe, this video just answered a question I sent you on a previous video! THANKYOU! I have another question; I was taught to lay down the media (resin) then apply the glass and let it soak up thru. Have not yet seen that except on the plywood, but then you added more wedia (resin). A huge differance between your work and the school is that you are "doing it" on a large scale . . .vs . . .Let's not do anything bigger than (usually) 1 sq ft! Again, MANY THANKS! Looking fwd to see if you have any vacuum glassing video's!
That's awesome, I'm glad to hear that you are finding the videos helpful! I plan to do some vacuum bagging in the future, so stay tuned and I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
Which would you recommend for insulated deer blinds? Love the content.
Thanks, I'm glad you are enjoying the videos! It's hard to say for sure. It would depend on exactly how it is being used in the deer blind. If it's non structural and you want to use epoxy resin, the xps foam might be good. For structural purposes, the Coosa board or Divinycell are great. You might want to just take a few minutes and scroll through our channels videos, I am sure you will find some useful info. Appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
How did you fare with the hurricane. I'm in Tampa and it hit us pretty hard. You were right in the path.
I'm in Jacksonville. We had some crazy wind. Not nearly as much rain as I thought though.
Bought your DIY CNC book years ago. Hello 👋
@@SAILBOATJACARANDA Wow!! Awesome! Thank You! By the way, I love the Jacaranda tree. We planted a wonderful one in Jamaica and has grown so large.
Which foam is less likely to absorb water?
@@PatrickHoodDaniel Glad to hear it. Is that where you live? I'm Scotland based.
What a demo; you always do such a good job! Thank you for your effort and please keep it up.
Thanks so much! I'm glad to hear how much you are enjoying the channel!
I’ve restored a few whalers as well as my current pro line project. I use Last A Foam to make custom radar arches, stringers, decks and fish boxes. The foam machines really well on the CNC and is compatible with all resins. Just choose the density required for your project and glass on.
Joe, great video. I experimented with the purple XPS foam. Built a plug, rolled a coat of PPG "Gripper" water based primer on it, added a layer of fiberglass window screen mesh while it was wet, then after the primer dried I added 2 more coats of primer, waxed the plug with couple coats of release wax, sprayed one coat of PVA and built an offshore outboard bracket with Vinylester resin and the plug was unaffected by the resin.
Definitely fun experimenting
Interesting! Thanks for sharing your experience with us, and thanks for watching!
Your videos have been just what have been looking for. They are applicable to more than just boat building. I am going to repair a shower pan. My plan was drill some holes pour some marine grade expansion foam to give it some support then fiberglass and gel coat over it with a roller. Thanks
Glad the videos are helpful! Sounds like a plan! Just remember that 2 part polyurethane foam have a tremendous amount of power when it is expanding. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Yes, you can do this. I would use a 6 lb foam for added support underneath your floor pan. Make sure you have some vent holes.
Awesome job as usual. Great information. Great video guys
Much appreciated! Thank you for watching!
Hey Capt. Joe! thanks for being a great resource as I built my 18' Flats Skiff. I am about to start filling my below deck compartments with foam, and i was curious if you think it would be a good idea to put some epoxy on top of the foam to add another layer of waterproofing?i don't think a layer of fiberglass would be necessary, but i'd be curious to hear what you think. Thanks again for the great videos! these have helped me a TON!
Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos! I don't think it's a bad idea at all to seal the foam surface. I have done that in the past with boats I have built and restored.
I have an application where it would be advantageous to remove the foam core after an outer (multiple layer) fiberglass shell has been constructed around it-for a one-off, light weight structure. Is there a chemical (acetone perhaps?) that might be used to dissolve the foam after the construction is complete?
Thanks for for your professional, well-done presentations. I've been glued to my computer screen ever since I discovered your channel two weeks ago. A suggestion for a future topic: carbon fiber and kevlar in place of fiberglass. I'm a velomobile enthusiast (recumbent, tricycle, pedal and electric-motor-powered transportation vehicles that are shrouded in an aerodynamic shell -thus my primary interest in your work.
You could, in theory, use epoxy resin over xps type foam or Styrofoam. Then use a solvent like acetone to dissolve the foam. I think that using sandpaper, a scraper, or a wire wheel would be the best way to remove the bulk of the foam materials first. A good shop vacuum would really help keep airborne particles down, or a vacuum assisted sander like the festool that we are currently using in the shop. Some small-scale experimentation on your side, before you tackle the actual part that you want to build, is always a good idea. I hope this helps and thanks for watching and commenting!
Great Information !! Thank You again for helping out those of us who like to do things ourselves !!
Awesome, thanks!
Great info, thanks
Thanks, I appreciate you watching!
Good morning, your channel is very good and professional. I have a question. I am making the floor of my commercial boat, and they told me that I could put fiber to the starbor, PVC. What do you think about this? Thanks in advance.
Thanks, I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying the videos! There are lots of different possible resin, fiberglass, and core options out there, and new products are constantly coming out. With that being said, it's hard to know for sure if your combo could work out well without some testing or speaking to someone in detail who has used it before. I do offer patreon for people who need consulting on their projects. Maybe with more info, I could point you in the right direction. I wish you all the best, and I appreciate you watching!
Yes Joe you really show just how versatile the foam and resin can be and allows creative thinking to flow and what someone can build out of such materials. You got me thinking how l can build a light weight boat.🧐
Great video! Thanks Joe!
Glad you liked it! I appreciate you watching and commenting!
I build custom kids planesvtovride in. Your videos save me alot of hassles in the long run...especially enjoy the tests...helps me knowbwhatvroute to take during builds
Great video as always and an interesting experiment! I have a followup for you, how would it be to fiberglass over the easily available boards with different resins. How would it react and more interesting, how easily would it delaminate? Maybe, what will the sandwich strength be?
Thanks! I appreciate your suggestions!
Brilliant, this opens up a ton of interesting applications. Thank you and your son for this wonderful content.
Glad you enjoy it! Thanks for watching!
Nice demonstration.
Thank you! Appreciate you watching!
I really, really appreciate your videos. You put the tech behind the practice and that sir, helps my level of understanding.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Lost foam molding would be a cool episode while you are on the topic
I have chosen to go with a polyester gelcoat paste to fill cracks and small holes in my hull. Everyone kept telling me to use epoxy or puddle but I wanted to use original materials that I could sand easily and gelcoat over. I would definitely use epoxy for some structural repairs though.
Thanks for watching and sharing your experiences with everyone!
Great vid again!! Do you know, will the pour foam cut with a hot wire after curing? Thx Joe!
Thanks! I don't know if a hot wire will work with polyurethane foam or not. I have never seen anyone do that. I would be cautious if you are going to try it. Wish I had more for you on that one. Appreciate you watching!
No, it won't cut with a hot wire. That is a trick when shaping EPS foam.
@@FiberglassWarehouse Thanks much!
So informative and educational. Thank You ! Does any of that foam outperform marine plywood for strength and durability in stringers?
I'm glad you enjoyed the videos! The Coosa board in the Bluewater 26 pound density is an amazing product. It is designed to be a marine plywood replacement. I used it exclusively in the build of our custom 29 ft center console that you see in the background of our videos. I have 25 videos documenting the build of the 29 and another video on working with Coosa board here on the channel that you might find very interesting. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Was it just me but was picturing DJT in the morning at 13.30... really interesting video Joe.
Great information. Very well done.
Hey Joe, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I would like to ask you about flanges. I’m a saddle maker in Australia. I’m starting to explore making my saddle trees with these pour foam and fiber glass. I started working on my plug once that done I will need to make flanges to be able to bolt the mould together to then pour the foam and will expand it the shape of my saddle tree. Do you have any information already or would you be willing to share some of your techniques about making flanges. Please and thank you so much your knowledge so far has helped me so much I will for forever great full
Interesting line of work that you are involved in! Some molds are very simple, and others are quite complex. I really don't know a lot about saddle making, so I'm a little in the dark on this one. I do have some videos back in our 29ft boat build series of videos that show me building the console and seat base for our 29. And of course, our hardtop mold building series. Maybe the answer is in there. If not, I will try to do some research. Maybe you can comment back after watching and let me know. I will also be opening up some of our patreon spots very soon. That allows me to consult directly with you via phone calls and emails. I wish you the very best with your project, and thanks for watching all of the way from Australia 🇦🇺!
Thanks so much for your time, this was very interesting. Looking forward to the new build👍🇦🇺
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks so much for your support of the channel!
@@FishBumpTV best TH-cam channel ever, do you have any merchandise available I can purchase? I’ll do some advertising Down Under🇦🇺
@@davewheeler5850 We are working on that! We will be sure to get some heading your way when it's available.
Excellent presentation; learned a lot; and interested in applying it to fabricating a structural foam carbon fiber chassis for an automotive application. Again Thank You
Thank you for sharing your experience with us 😀
From Scotland
Our pleasure! Thanks for watching all of the way from beautiful Scotland!
Thank you master ❤
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching
Thanks Joe, I really enjoyed this one! My camper project is on hold until I finish my subframe, but I’m trying to soak up all the information I can on the use of foam and fiberglass for building structural components. One question, I’ve noticed most builders follow foam with CSM, is that for structural reason or aesthetics? I build a 2’x2’ sample 2” thick using 2 layers of 1720 and 6# polyurethane foam and it appears to be fine. I used a router sled to flatten the side that wasn’t in the mold and short of using more resin on the first layer of 1720 I didn’t notice any issues. Should I plan on using CSM before 1720? I don’t care about the way it looks cause it will be on the inside of the camper and will be covered with some form of paneling.
I'm glad you are enjoying the videos! Csm seems to bond very well on the initial coat, and I do think that it has a nice look when finishing out. Just remember that csm doesn't behave with epoxy resin like it does with polyester and vinyl ester resins. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching
Should there be “weep holes” or drains through the stringers/bulkheads in the compartment filled with foam, or should you try to seal these compartments off as much as possible?
What do you think of white pvc foam? Do you think it's a good material to build a boat? How it's compared to the other foams? What type of resin should I use?
Thanks
Did you use some sort of release agent on that container? I've used that pour foam before and it sticks to EVERYTHING.
I'm planning on fiberglassing my bathroom subfloor so I have been watching your videos to prepare. You make it seem easy and almost relaxing but i know that anytime i work with something that has a limited working time i am stressed out, i always forget something in the prep phase, and i wind up with material everywhere.
No, I didn't use any kind of release agent. The little clear bins came straight from Lowes. I always try to lay everything out beforehand and mentally run through every step of the job. Having a nice work table on wheels that you can position near your work is also a big help. Having grown up using these materials my whole life also gives me a high comfort level working with these materials. That will happen for you all as well. The more you work with it, the easier it will get for you. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV I try to think of everything but I always forget something. Fiberglass is definitely something that I want to add to my skill set but I don't plan on doing enough to get to your level.
I'm more in the jack of all trades category. While I wish I could be a master of all trades I think the best I can hope for is competency in each. If it weren't for people like you, thunderhead289, essential craftsman, mrpete222, adept ape, abom79, stud pack, and many more it just wouldn't be possible.
Books can only go so far and few tradesmen would ever bother trying to pass on their knowledge that way. While the printing press was a huge leap forward the Internet allows average people to share their knowledge. Of course you have to filter out the noise that comes with that but how else can you learn so much so fast? People may spend their entire career in one trade, watch a few TH-cam videos, and learn something they never knew.
Do you have any videos on making cushions? Ive been wanting to make a new middle cushion between the seats.
My dad built boats with marine grade Douglas fir plywood back in the late 50’s to early 60’s. He covered the bottom and deck with fiberglass. Many of those boats are still around. To me that suggests that marine grade plywood is certainly not “garbage”.
If a boat is constructed of plywood with skill and care it can still be a very fine boat that lasts a long time.
I agree! My father did the same thing. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video! Do the shop mixed foams have an R value for heat transfer!
2 lb foam has an R-Value of 6.6-7. It is a great insulator.
Joe, you are a Modest man.... The beauty of youtube is anyone and everyone can view your or anyones videos, and I bet or I can see a guy from a boat Co. like Azimut, or Sunseeker watching and being like, Hhhmmmmm, I am going in monday and telling my guys to Get this method down!
I appreciate that! You know, you might be right! I guess it's all good though. Glad to share what I know with you all and happy to see the channel growing!
The idea I just had is creating foam shaped, fiberglass shelled solar panel mounts and fiberglass encased, water-resistant wood frames for the solar panels. People are creating arches over the cockpit for mounting solar cells. But if you go that high you going to need a pretty firm structure. I am more thinking over the cabin of the boat and only a few inches up. But there is a lot of those kind of things happening.
My 50 year old trimaran is airex foam core with fiberglass over it. Its super light and still dry.
Wow, impressive! Thanks for watching!
Those three structural foams to the left are perfect if your looking to sandwich it between two layers of S-fiberglass/epoxy for a DIY 24 foot boat to circumnavigate the globe.
Great way too add thickness to your thin hull and presumably the foam also has good? heat insulation properties too...
Agreed! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Have you covered making a fiberglass mold yet? We will be attempting one soon 😂.
Yes, I recently did a very in-depth 13 part series detailing the build of the pattern, mold, and complete custom hardtop for our custom 29ft center console. The series covers every detail of the mold building process. Hopefully, it's what you are looking for. Thanks for watching
Thank you again
Glad to help!
Did you build your Buskins 29 in a mold?
still amazed that i can just hop on youtube and get this type of information... for free.. Thank you, Captain
Haha, I hear ya! I'm glad I can share what my boat building family has learned over the years with the TH-cam community! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I bought some Foamular and Bondo fiberglass from Home Depot, but ended up melting parts of the foam board. When i tried to fiber glass it. I wish I had seen this video yesterday!
Thanks for sharing, I hope this video helps!
Hi Captain Joe
How about PVC foam board? I plan to use it as flooring for the boat console. The plan is to laminate it with poly resin and csm. What is your opinion ok this method?
Sure, PVC foam board that is designed for structural marine applications can be a great material. Just do plenty of research, and maybe some testing before you start your project. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I'm looking to an alternative to 'stitch and glue' build up for a small sailing dinghy. I was wonder if some form of fiberglass, foam and resin might have some advantages...perhaps 1. Cheaper, 2. Easier to build 3. More Floatation 4. Lighter. Any thoughts if this is a good idea? Or, should I just stick with marine plywood and 'stitch and glue'? Thanks
Nidacore honeycomb core is about the cheapest core material available. It weighs almost nothing and is super strong after fiberglass is laid over it. You can lay one layer of chapped strand or surfboard cloth over it and still bend it into shape. Tape the seams instead of stitch, with big gaps between tape. Fill the gaps with thickened resin to hold it together, then remove the tape and glue the gaps with the same thickened resin and fiberglass a bunch of layers over the completed shape.
Sounds interesting! I have built several stitch and glue style skiffs before, and it is pretty hard to beat plywood for strength and cost. I think coosa board could be good, but it costs considerably more. Some testing on your end could be a good idea though. Hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
@@ninehundreddollarluxuryyac5958 Thanks for your suggestions. Would Nicadore and fiberglass have any advantages for me regarding cost, weight, buoyancy or ease of build?
Hi Captain, I'm glad you guys are okay. I was worried about you guys. Damn Joe I never really realized how in shape you are. Your actually pretty buffed. That shirt hides it pretty well but I can tell. I guess when you battle game fish and work as hard as you do all the time you get pretty buffed. Sorry for going completely off topic but it just hit me😂.
Haha, I try to stay active, man! Our lifestyle helps, I think, and enjoying what you do is a big part of it! I appreciate you all so much. Watching and commenting is very encouraging!
My dad used to have a company making Polyurethane kit (not yacht based). When he was sorting the mixture out he would stick enough into a plant pot type vase. There would be enough that it would expand and just overflow enough to make a mushroom shape. Quick spray over that with white for the "stalk" and red paint over the top with a bunch of white spay dots.......sold them to the local garden centre for more than he'd have got for throwing the test pieces in the bin 😆
My concern is how Polyurethane these days handles any "sweat". Although it is water proof it can rot with any water ingress. Too many people insulate their homes with Polyurethane and it's just going to cause issues. Hopefully this Polyurethane doesn't have those issues (I'm 30yrs out of date when it comes to Polyurethane)
Interesting story. Thanks for sharing! Modern foams are better than they used to be, but still have to be used and installed properly for the best performance. Just hope the videos can help take some of the mystery out of the process. Thanks for watching!
The foam comes in spray cans too. You can use masking tape to close off areas and spray foam in through a hole in the tape to fill in an void or hollow area. It takes almost nothing to hold a bunch of foam in place to build up an area, then sand back to the shape you want once its hard.
how would you repair screw holes on fiberglass houseboat panels? The holes range from 1/4" to 1". thanks
Did the middle eps foam react to the epoxy?
Very nice, so as to summarize: Poly ISO = good for all resins, XPS Pink = epoxy only, EPS = do not use. Airex, Divinycell, Coosa = good for all. Is that about right?
Yep, that's about right! Thanks for watching!
Can you make a plug with the foam by pouring into or over a object with some plastic layed down so the foam won't stick?
Theoretically, yes. You might want to experiment with something small first. Just to be sure, it could be right for your application. Thanks for watching!
I'm looking for this to create a snow cap roof for my shaved Ice trailer
Very cool, I think that could work! My family loves some shaved ice. Now you've got me wanting a pina colada with some condensed milk! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@FishBumpTV you are welcome lol
Hey boss, hope you all made and are making it out okay. Respect from up north..
Yes, we are all good down our way. Thanks for checking in on us! I feel terrible for the folks who were directly in the path of this one. What a mess, especially up in the mountains!
Never fiberglass polystyrene foam! I learned the hard way!
G,day Captain Joe from Sydney Australia
Which resin is most commonly used in your shop:
A. Polyester
B. Vinylester
C. Epoxy
🌏🇦🇺
So, what resin is used for carbon fiber? I've heard it is a lot worse, during a fire, than fiberglass would be.
What is flame rating of polystyrene foam
Please do destruction and stress tests.
Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!
What surfaces does that foam NOT stick to? The reason why I'm asking is I would like to create a foam structure, strengthen it with fiberglass then spray gel coat over it. And I don't know if I should spray the gel coat first on a waxy surface then while it's tacky add the fiberglass and then the spray foam in a framed enclosure? Or the reverse... make the foam wall then do the fiberglass then the gel coat. What do you think [if you don't mind asking you advice]?
It won't stick to very well mold released surface, or plastic. It sticks to everything else.
@@FiberglassWarehouse thank you. I just did a test piece where I laid down some plastic and I made a fiberglass mesh resin wafer. It came off the plastic pretty easy and I was left with a nice flat wafer ish thing. Which is cool I'm thinking. Because I can put spray foam sandwich between two of these pieces sort of like a smores ha ha
Cool
Thanks! Appreciate you watching
👌👌👌
What about the PVC foam? Am interested in a boat made with a PVC foam sandwiched between fiberglass in 1974. The boat has some blistering. Should I be concerned?
💪💪
It's the MEK that melts some foam products.
Styrene also dissolves and melts and is present in most of the products we are using. Thanks for watching
If you paint XPS, resins will not distort.
But there will be no adhesion between the resin and the foam - the resin will stick to the paint and the paint to the foam, so the adhesion of the paint will be the weakest link in the chain, not very ideal..
@@daiquiri. Wouldn't the weak link be the foam itself? I have made planter boxes using that foam, wood glue, and old sheets. While I have had some flex under weight, I have not had any failures yet to say where it fails. But I would bet the foam, not the joint.
Sorry Buskens.
Natural born presenter, should be a trade college lecturer !
Wow, thanks so much! Glad you are enjoying the channel!