i am not a professional painter but have painted several cars and im embarrassed to admit that the finish that you got with the higher priced gun looked pretty good to me. I can see the orange peel, but many cars factory paint has that amount of orange peel anyways. As a matter of fact, you can spot a car that has been wrecked before often times by the LACK of orange peel on the refinished panels ONLY. (Most body shops use real high quality guns, hence no orange peel) Great video, and you sure did have some great results for painting a car outside. Excellent video as usual!
Thank you very much!!! The finish that I got with the second gun wasn't too bad. But that orange peel was heavier than the original Acura orange peel. If I wasn't doing a video I would've done just a slight cut and buff where some of the orange peel would have remained. But for the sake of the video I want to show people that even a really bad paint job can still turn out to look show quality, so I went ahead and made it look like glass.
In reference to the orange peel - it actually depends on the age of the car. A car that is 15 years old will have less orange peel because it gets knocked down over the life of vehicle by owner(s) washing and buffing their car. If you ever look at 20 year old car that has been well kept for, it has pretty flat paint.
@@fix206 Good job and excellent video the only question I have is the fact u were painting that close to the truck? Is that ok? How did you avoid overspray?
Been using both guns for years take apart and clean silicone off and you will get great results with these guns what's nice about it is you can have several guns at your use at the same time. All my paint jobs are in my driveway.
I did realize that toward the end... So in reality they are not HVPL, too much materials would get waisted at that high of pressure setting. I've set those guns up just as I setup my Iwata and DeVilbiss,
I use the Harbor Freight two gun set for shooting primer. The 74 dollar gun I use for base coat and clear. I spray the clear at 20 psi and get a nice finish. If for some reason things don’t look perfect you can color sand and make it look great.A lot can be said for proper setup of your gun and cleaning it throughly before you ever spray with it.
I did not do a thorough cleaning before spraying, just ran some thinner through it a few times and called it good. I sat the gun up the same way as I set up my Iwata and you saw the result that I got with it. With my Iwata I can lay both base and clear down where I normally don't have to do any color correction afterwards, might just have to take out a nib or two and that's about it
I agree if you plan to spray on a regular basis or plan to make it a sideline or business get a professional gun. I have used the cheaper guns for work trucks and in the shop for different projects with good results. While not a professional unit they work for those of us that might use a spray gun a couple times a year.
I normally pick up a lot of my tools used so I don't pay the premium when you would if you buy new. Pretty sure I paid right around $200 for each of my guns that I spray with. I don't paint a whole lot maybe two-three times a year. But I always try to achieve the best result possible without doing a whole lot of cutting and buffing afterwards, and these guns help me achieve that good finish so that's what makes it worth it for me
It says on the price tag that the $15.99 gun is also HVLP. I'm just saying. The guns I've always used are all $500 plus. I've always used cheap guns for primer. I appreciate seeing how the Harbor Freight guns perform.
Yeah I've realized that they where basically the same after the vid was posted... I was just looking at physical attributes of both guns, one of them was stamped HVLP so that's why I went with it. I personally have always been an Iwata guy... Good, solid quality guns, can't say the same about harbor freight guns
Another very informative video (as usual). It was interesting to see the difference in the finish quality with the two guns. I was expecting the more expensive gun to do a better job and that proved to be the case. One thing though, as you pointed out, the preparation is far more important to getting a good result. Even with the cheap guns and orange peel, by the time you sand and buff the clear, it will be as good as using a good quality gun, just more work. But either way, the preparation defines the final finish. You are doing well painting outside, but it just goes to show what you can do at home without all the professional equipment, for less severe damage.
Howdy Bruce !! Yes, as you've said it, all that these cheap guns do is create more work for you in the end to achieve the desired end result. Because I ended up spending a majority of the day on a paint correction that I otherwise would not have done if I wouldn't have used my nice guns
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video and show us how bad a cheaper gun will cost you in time. I personally could not do that. I was honestly thinking about one of those guns from harbor freight, and as a beginner I'm so grateful for this! Now I'll just go ahead and get one of the better 2 you have. Thanks again and keep that content coming!! God bless
If I were you I would avoid Harbor freight altogether when it comes to paint guns. If you're trying to do this on a budget go ahead and just buy a used gun on eBay or something like that. Trust me it will be easier to learn with a professional gun, you will achieve better results after a bit of practice, but with a cheap gun even with a lot of practice you're still not going to get a satisfactory finish. And at that point you probably would just blame yourself for doing something wrong rather than blaming a crappy gun. It's worth it to spend a bit more but save yourself a ton of headache in the end.
Turn up the pressure. Most cases the cheaper the gun the more pressure is needed. (most cases) The purple gun will lay a professional looking finish as long as prep is done properly. Wet sand after helps tremendously.
You probably could get a better result with that gun by turning the pressure way up, but it's suppose to be an HVLP gun and I just wanted to see how it would perform by setting it up the same way as I set up my HVLP Iwata. With higher pressure you end up with much more overspray, which basically means that you're losing a lot more material... It's an OK gun for a beginner and even a weekend warrior. I guess there's a reason you don't see painters at collision shops using these, and I personally wouldn't use it for anything more then to lay down some primer...
With a bit of practice just about anyone can paint in the driveway or a garage and get good results in the process... And if you're not not too sure about what it is that you're doing, it's better to lay the pain down on the dryer side rather than on the wet side. It is much easier to cut and buff orange peel than trying to sand down runs or sags in your paint job... Ask me how I know :)
I have painted quite a few cars with the purple gun, a new one each time old one with a little mods become my primer gun, I use about 35- 40 lbs pressure to loose the orange peel, get just as good a job as my expensive guns. Got to clean that new gun perfect and then do it again, has a lot of oil on and in it.
The main point I was trying to make is that if I set up the purple gun the same way as I set up my expensive guns it doesn't perform the same... Sure you can achieve a better finish at 35-40 psi but that point you turn a lot of your material into overspray. Professional guns achieve nice finish at lower pressure thus depositing more material onto the panel rather than into the air. And just like you I do keep a purple gun for primer.
It is possible to achieve a good result by using that gun, but to do that you have to crank the air pressure way up. When you do that you create a lot more overspray, meaning that you lose a lot of your material into the atmosphere instead of it ending up on the panel that you're trying to paint. Good quality guns can achieve a good finish at much lower air pressure so this way you're not wasting expensive materials
I paint at home and have a few DIY budget guns. The profesional HF is one of my favs along with my Devilbiss FLG5. I use pressures on the lower end to keep overspray down but the profesional and purple guns do not like pressures under 2 bar for base/sealer and more for clear. I dont buy the purple guns anymore because they all leak air into the cup. My FLG5 can run at 15-20psi base/sealer and 22-25psi clear with low overspray. Cranking up the pressure on alll these guns give you better finishes at the expense of overspray. I have used expensive guns and they are great but for the DIY you can get it done with a less expensive gun if you learn to set it up to suit your needs. Cheers
I don't paint much at all. But I will admit the purple gun works good as a primer gun, just not for real paint. I have heard sometimes you get lucky and the machining on the tips works out really well, but that is an exception and not the rule. All in all, a very informative video. I have heard all this before, but to see it in action is much better.
That's just about all the purple gun is good for, I've been using one of those for a primer gone for the past few years with good results. But with primer you're not really looking for a good finish, just coverage. Thanks for the comment Matthew !! Also let me know if you ever come across Holland Landing gear :-)
Huh I have painted a lawn mower, bunch of furniture, a pair of French door and several other things with the purple gun and get very good results. Yes they had some orange peel but nothing to cry about and I run anywhere between 25-40 psi depending on the paint I’m spraying. Not sure what you are doing with it but I’m getting good results with it? Here’s my mower painted and clear coated with purple gun no polishing pin.it/53sqyiN
Been painting stuff for aout 40 years now. Even tried out the same guns and still use them on small parts etc with good results. You have a mess there yes but dude, it's not all the guns fault. You should have known painting outside will be a hazard and with any breeze at all you picked up massive ust and crap out of the air. The orange peel you could have fixed with wetsanding and wax or a new coat. From a step away it looks better lol. For times i have to paint outdoors I do the wet ground, use yardguard bug killer for as far out as possible , killing all the flying bugs you have in your paint. Then I built a 2x4 frame to go around the vehicle or parts and tarp over the frame giving some defense against what happened to you. In the end, normally have to do some wetsanding, then polish or another layer of clear if the formula allows it. The good about the guns? Cheap and they did not create runs.
I"ve been painting outside for a while and got it down pretty good. I always pick a right day for spraying. I never paint if it's breezy, alway saturate the ground around the work area so amount of dirt that I get in the paint is very minimal, but hey you can even get dirt in your paint job if you're spraying in the booth (been there done that :) ) Those guns just weren't that good, whenever I use my Iwata/Devilbiss guns I always get good results with them
Sharpe makes some pretty good entry level professional guns. Think they are in the $150 range. All the materials are expensive. The average Joe would be shocked what sheets of sandpaper go for above the 800 grit range. Your clear could have been part of the issue too. I've become a fan of Southern Polyurethane's products, but you can't just pick it up off the jobbers shelf. You are pretty creative in your work.
I have never used Sharpe guns, but I've heard good things about them. I've only ever used Iwata and Devilbiss guns, and had some pretty good luck with them. Personally if I were to get into painting but couldn't afford some higher end guns, I would just try to find a good used gun for a half or even third of the price. And you are not kidding when you talk about price of materials, and everything just keeps getting more and more expensive as the years go by. I have noticed that the clear that I used, set up a bit quicker than I thought it would so it didn't really have a whole lot of time to flow out, but the cheap guns that I used for spraying didn't atomize it very good either, especially the first gun used. I do appreciate the comment, more videos to come here shortly. Stay tuned 👍
Maybe it's something that you have to get used to, maybe if I would've spent more time experimenting with different settings I might've gotten a different outcome . But I went head and set these guns up like I would normally set up my other guns that I've been using with great results for a while, and the settings didn't work. And also I probably would've gotten better results if I would have cranked the air pressure way up because these guns didn't seem to itemize the paint too well. But at that point you're creating a ton of overspray and you're wasting a bunch of materials... Something tells me they're not true HVLP
This was a great video, I am looking for a sprayer to use on my fence and the $30 Harbor Freight seems like a winner. After seeing this, I will also repaint my wife's car, which is pretty sun burnt. If I can get it half as good as your worst job I will be pretty happy and a big improvement over the existing.
Don't think this paint gun would work out too well to spray a house or a fence with, because that type of paint would be too thick to pass through the small tip at the end of this paint gun. But I'm sure you can get your wife's car done with one of these no problem :-)
I stumbled upon this video as we inherited a 09 civic that I am restoring for my wife. It needs a 100% paint job and in several parts, large portions of metal are showing. I was wondering if I need a HVLP or a LVLP for my current set up. Someone have given me 2 of those purple guns My compressor is a harbor freight and the specs are as follows It's a 27 gal 200 PSI Flow rate 6.3 SCFM @ 40 PSI, 5.1 SCFM @ 90 PSI Volume 27 Gallon AC Volts 120 Amperage 15 I am an absolute noob to paint. So if you're willing to spend some time I have some questions, I really appreciate you taking time to look at this
The compressor that you have will not work for auto paint unless you have some small items that you're painting. It will run out of pressure very fast and I don't think you would even be able to paint a single door with a compressor even if the tank is fully charged. Those purple guns from Harbor freight are garbage in my opinion, but if that is all you have then just go for it. HVLP is the way to go
Also, the black widow paint gun is amazing, you should try it out, it also has a rebuild catalog for parts, you can get a 1.4 and 1.3 tip, and it gives great OEM and show paint results
@@fix206 I live in Auburn! I was literally just at that same harbor freight to buy the "Professional HVLP" gun to learn how to do autobody paint in my own garage, but after this video I went straight back and returned it haha.
@@fix206 sweet! СПАСИБА!! I'm officially trawling for project cars to buy with the confidence from watching your videos. I also bet you know about data recovery. I was doing that for a while using a PC3000, made by Ace Labs in Moscow), before that I used a DDI4 by DeepSpar (made by a Ukrainian-Russian living in Canada), and before that ... started with an Atola ... made by another Rusky. And sometimes to change the head I had to use parts from Serbia, Belgrade. As soon as I saw you were using a hard drive's actuator magnet I figured you knew about that too. I'm basically moving on from that business, but it was great seeing how intelligent Russians are. The US FBI and CIA had to get special permission to use Russian hardware bc theirs is the best. lol. You buys are amazing. In fact, in the first video I already suspected you were Russian just from your appearance and how many things you knew how to do. УРААА!!!
What i've learned painting my classic VW Bug with the purple gun is that you need to crank the pressure way up to like 50psi to get them to atomize correctly. That way I get way less orange peel than in the video.
But at that point you create a huge cloud of overspray and a lot of your material doesn't make it to the panel thus being waisted... Still doesn't make it a good gun, you can normally lay the clear down like glass at 25-30 psi with a good, professional gun... I'm sure you can use a sandblasting gun and turn the pressure up to 100 psi and you'll be able to lay down some basecoat and clear through it 😂😂😂
I think the clear having all that peel might have also been because of the temperatures outside probably got too cold causing the clear to have a reaction or it got dirty
One of the ways of lessening the orange peel is to turn their air pressure way up. But then you create way too much overspray and lose a lot of your material and that kind of defeats the purpose. Good professional paint guns will help you achieve good results at lower air pressure with more material on the panel rather then in the air... Brian from paint society channel tested out the cheap purple gun and he was able to get more or less good result with it. However you don't see him use that gun in any of his other videos. He always uses the high-end professional guns...
You are welcome pitbull, I started using that system about three years ago and never looked back. It is so much more convenient to use than the standard cups that come with a gun. What really got me sold on it is the ease of cleanup. That part takes no time at all !!
looking forward to your paint correction video this is a great video might be a good idea to put the names of the two harbor freight guns so more users can pick this up in there recommend feeds!
Like somebody else mentioned, a little more pressure would have laid that clear out better. The $75 paint gun is actually a really good gun. I don't feel that it got a fair chance.
Maybe so, I just went ahead and set this gun up the same way as I set up my Iwata or DeVillbiss guns. With my guns I get satisfactory result at lower pressure. Because that's how HVLP guns are set up to operate...
No, I have not. I actually returned both of those guns after filming. I wasn't impressed with either one of them so I wasn't planning on using them any longer
Great video! Just bought a beater car and want to try painting car myself, would love to see video showing complete tools, supplies and cost breakdown for doing a budget friendly project like that. What air compressor and hose should I get at Harbor Freight?
Good prep work is foundation for a good paint job. It may take you a day or even two days to get the car prepped, but if you want your paint job to turn out better and last longer don't cut corners and take your time prepping. I cannot really give you a cost breakdown because prices will vary depending on your location. But you would basically need to find an auto paint supplies store in your area and tell them that you need a lower end/cheaper basecoat/clearcoat materials. Try pricing it out that way. As far as the air compressor goes that would also depend on what it is that you're painting. Are you just going to paint one fender? Or are you going to be spraying the entire car all at once. Bigger is always better. I personally run a 60 gallon compressor and that should be a minimum for auto paint in my opinion. Also look at the specs on the compressor's air pump. Once again the higher the numbers of the pump output the better, that means that the compressor will have enough air output to recover while you are painting so that way your air pressure does not drop too low while your spraying. That would for sure be the problem with using a smaller compressors, they just don't have the adequate air output, so as you are painting the air is being supplied will drop in pressure and there will not be enough air to properly atomize the paint and clearcoat therefore your end result will look like sh!t. Instead of going to Harbor freight, take a look on craigslist or offerup in your area I bet you'll be able to find a decent used 60 gallon compressor for $200-$400... If nothing is available right away just wait out a bit until the right deal will come along. Just recently I helped a friend acquire a nice 80 gallon compressor on craigslist which is perfect for auto paint and he only paid $130 for it. That was a steal of a deal...
Thanks bro, but yeah, there is only so much you can do with a shitty gun like that. I guess if your dirt poor and can't afford anything better then it would do LOL
LOL exactly. Honestly I get my primer sealers to lay like glass with this gun. But I never use it for clear being if the gun fucks up there's no going back in the final stage. All in all great Job tho!
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 I'm all good for now with the guns that I currently use. At the very most I may upgrade my Iwata LpH 400 gun to an Iwata Supernova for clearcoat sometime down the road. I do appreciate the offer though 👍👍👍
You are right about that, especially when it's warm outside, paint materials don't have a whole lot of time to floor out and start setting up rather quickly
The truck is actually just fine, I know there's no masking film on it but since do a lot of paint around it, it usually gets a coat of "3M Overspray Masking Liquid Dry" 😉 before I paint.
If you are in the market for a paint gun, I would highly recommend the new Iwata KIWAMI4-13BA4 1.3mm... Before tax they run just under $200 on eBay, it is a great name brand gun on a budget
I have two of the cheapest HF paint guns. I always get orange peel and I thought I just sucked. Maybe time for better tools. Also - you didn’t get overspray on the truck?
Using professional guns versus harbor freight guns it's like night and day. That's why right after I finished with that paint job I went ahead and returned both of those guns. The truck is actually just fine, I know there's no masking film on it but since do a lot of paint around it, it usually gets a coat of "3M Overspray Masking Liquid Dry" 😉 before I paint.
Fix206 @Fix206 Thanks. I’ve learned a lot of good tips from you : frame pulling fixture, how to make a spotter, roof puller, tram gage, and now overspray masking. Much appreciated.
I would like to see the correction of the paint. I assume you are sanding and buffing it out to get a better finish with the clear. Thanks for this video, I was thinking about painting my Tahoe with one of those cheap guns.
Yes I will be cutting and buffing the car in the next video. I'll try to make the process as detailed as possible. It's a pretty time-consuming process so I try to avoid it if I can, and one sure way of avoiding most of it or at least some of it is by using a quality professional paint gun.
@@fix206 thanks again for the video. I have worked in a paint shop before, so I know how it all can be time consuming. I mainly dealt with the prep though. Spraying primer and all is easy for me. It was over 20 years ago though but I just thought i would give the base and clear a go at it and see how it comes out.
You can definitely do it especially if you have some prior experience. As long as all of your prep is good and you using good equipment, after a bit of practice to get your body and arm moving in unison at correct speed you can start pumping paint jobs out one after another :-)
how do you mix the cars primay paint before putting it in the spray gun, like what ratio should i use and what specifically should i use? Also, how do you find the right paint to buy before starting the job? I know how to find the color code, i just dont know what paint i should be getting
Basecoat a.k.a. paint usually mixes 1 part paint to 1 part reducer, some paints may have to be mixed different, you can always find your mixing directions right on the label of the can of paint. As far as the type of the reducer being used, most of the time you'll be using a urethane reduce. There is fast, medium, slow and extra slow reducers... Each of those reducers will have a temperature range they should be used within, printed on the label... So if it is cold outside like 50 -60°F then you are going to want to use a fast reducer, and it's warm outside then you may want to use slow or even extra slow reducer and so on... Find a paint store in your area that deals in auto paint, they will sell you the right type of paint that you would need, they can also answer a lot of the question that you may have...
I painted my ol 81 chevy truck with a harbor freight kit. Came with pint size sprayer/tank an a 1/4 pint(or so,numbers are guesstimate's) sprayer/tank. Did it in 2 days, 1 day 3 coats primer an 1 day 4 coats paint. I used high quality paint that has paint/clear coat in 1. An people thought it was a 4g professional job. 🤣🤣🤣
Id say 3 coats of primer is an overkill, the reason I say that is because primer shrinks and the more coat you put on the longer you have to wait for it to fully cure. You can put as many coats on as you want and then sand the primer down to make it flat as glass, right after you get it painted it will look great, but a month or two down the road especially in the summer when it's pretty warm out, as time goes on you will see that a perfect body work that looked amazing at first will shift a little bit. You are going to notice that there will be some slight waves in the areas that got repaired and primered. That's because a thicker coat of primer needs a good bit of time to fully cure and shrink before it could be sanded down and painted for the best results possible. Don't take this the wrong way, I'm not judging your work, just talking from experience. Paint/clear coat in 1 is called single stage paint, generally this is not a high-end paint material but something that is used on fleet vehicles such as trucks, taxis, etc. Its generally only used if you are repainting an entire vehicle since it os pretty bad at trying to match it up to an existing color of your vehicle, you cannot use it in a repair scenario where you only have to paint a fender or a door or a hood, because that paint will not match to the existing color on the vehicle, I have personally only used it one time about 20 years ago to repaint friend's car, it turned out fine, but generally you will never see a respectable paint shop use this type of paint, unless the customer is on the budget and wants his paint job to be done as cheap as possible, it's always going to be base coat/clear coat... Unless you go to Maaco if you live in United States... Once again I'm not judging your work, there are many different ways to approach a repair or a pint job
With a cheaper gun a different air-pressure and way of using makes a big difference for no orange peel on finished result. Even if you buy a $ 800,00 paint gun doesn't mean the result will be perfect.... the painter create the finish.
You can crank your air pressure way up to 50psi in an attempt to get a better finish and turn most of your material into overspray in the process. These cheap guns just don't atomize materials the right way. An $800 paint gun will not make someone a great painter if they don't know what they are doing and at the same time you won't see professional painters who paint day in and day out using these cheap Chinese guns, because they are junk! Otherwise why would a guy who really knows what he's doing spend hundreds of dollars on a paint gun when he can just get away with using a $15 or a $50 gun?
Professional guns is what I use 100% of the time, that was the first Time ever I've used anything but professional equipment. I may do another review of couple of Chinese copies of the Devilbiss and Sata guns sometime down the road just to see if they are any good, because not everyone can afford a good, top-of-the-line paint gun 👍
don't blame the gun - I've laid flat ass clear coats down with the harbor freight purple gun - it's the clear your using and your mix rates. I've thrown away more expensive guns and always go back to harbor freight guns - they are great for one - two paint jobs then throw them away and buy a new one for the next project also don't just "full open" the adjustments - if you dial it in before spraying you'll get better results
I know you can crank the air pressure way up on these guns and end up with better/flatter finish, but at the same time you'll create so much more overspray and you're just gonna end up losing a lot of the material into the air. I personally just did not have a good luck with these cheap guns, but I can lay the sealer/base/clear out nicely with my Iwata just about every time...
Please post a video using your professional guns being used in your driveway at dusk so we can compare. I think under those conditions you got better results than I would have expected. Paint Society has a video up using the 15.00 gun in a paint booth being used by a professional painter and he got way better results than you. There are a lot of things that factor into a paint job and the paint gun is only one of them.
I do all of my painting outside, if you look at some of my previous videos such as Rolls Royce Ghost, Acura RDX or Honda Civic videos. You'll see how well my paint comes out when I use quality guns. I actually watch paint society videos. That guy is real good, paint is what he does day in and day out. And I have seen the video of him using the $15 gun.. For all I know he spent a bit of time setting up that gun, while doing some spray out panels to see which settings work and which don't. I just quickly set it up the same way as I would normally set up my professional guns and I went to town. Maybe if I tinkered with it a bit more I might've been able to get slightly better result, but those guns are not great to begin with. I can guarantee you one thing though, you will never see Brian from paint society use that gun again on his channel. Because obviously it isn't that great otherwise he would continue using it :-)
If you don’t thin the paint well and if you shake the paint instead of stirring and if you hold the gun at an angle instead of perpendicular or if you have too much paint output (which you did all of the above) than no matter how expensive or high end the equipment is, you will always get orange peel.
I thinned the paint out 1:1 as per spec sheet, I thin it out just the same when I use my Iwata/DeVilbiss guns and it lays down perfect. I do thoroughly shake the paint up once the cup is on the gun. These Chinese guns just don't atomize the material very well, I don't think they are true HVLP guns. I could probably get better results if I cranked the air pressure way up but then I would end up with a ton of overspray and a bunch of wasted materials that aren't cheap these days... This isn't my first rodeo when it comes to auto paint, but I can tell right away the difference between a cheap, crappy gun and a good professional one
Orange peel i used to get from high end paints no matter what ...like glasurit.. And if u over thin it youll end up with a bunch of hangers,but i use iwata for clear its just beautiful how it lays on even cheap clear,and base i use sata hvlp or tge rp
HVLP gun should perform much better at lower pressure. The 14.99 would probably do a bit better if I cranked up the air pressure, but then it wouldn't exactly perform as HVLP... That's just my experience with these cheap guns, maybe someone else could get them to work better for them
@@fix206 doubt anyone could do any better. My personal opinion is that the gun is worth the money and that's about all. I've bought 3 of them total. Only due to losing the needle spring in both of the first 2( I'm notoriously bad about losing tiny parts) I'd lose my little michael if it wasn't attached. But out of all 3 I never paid more than $10 because I made sure to get them on sale and with 20% coupon. The way I see it the gun is a steal for $10 but I'd probably never pay full price when I can have a good few options in the $30ish range on amazon that would perform a lot better. It's also worth noting that I do not paint professionally but I do prime cars several times a week doing body work and no matter what anybody says, that gun will shoot 2k primer with no problems whatsoever and I've ran at least 200 cups through my 3rd purple gun. It absolutely must be thoroughly cleaned after every single cup but it will lay it down as well as you could ever need a gun to because at the end of it all its gonna be sanded anyway. My purple gun has been used and cleaned so much its gray now. I'm officially retiring it tomorrow though. I've upgraded to the $25 green gun harbor freight has and I'm already thinking I made a mistake. It seems like worse quality than the purple lol but we will see
Funny thing is I've been rocking the $15 gun for the past few years to shoot primer out of. And to be honest I think that's the only thing that is good for. Quality of the finish isn't relevant when most of it will be sanded down anyways. And both of the professional guns that I use for base and clear I picked up used that way I only paid 25-30 cents on the dollar for them. This way it doesn't break the bank and I get a great quality paint job straight out of the gun.
@@fix206 I never thought of buying paint guns used. I guess I just figured high end guns were lifetime purchases. I feel slow now. Time to hit ebay thanks for the tip
I figured if you are a professional painter and you work at the shop where all you do day in and day out is lay down some paint, then sure, buy a new one it will pay for itself pretty soon. Nowadays I do auto body and paint on the side as a hobby, only paint 2-3 times a year and dropping $700-800 on just one of the paint guns wouldn't be such a great investment for me. The Iwata LPH-400 gun I paid about $180 (around $700-750 new ) at a local pawn shop about five years ago, and my DeVilbiss Tekna I picked up on eBay for right around $200 couple of years back ($$700-800 when new) and it came with a bunch of extra accessories.
I've been painting in the drive way for a while and the way I do stuff normally I don't get any overspray on any of my cars. I normally throw some plastic wrap over cars, some time I apply spray on masking that washes off with water and sometimes I park cars just far enough away that by the time overspray hits nearby vehicle it's already dry so it doesn't stick
I think the correct way to say this would be but it's not always the gun. There are folks out there who could probably set this gun up a bit better and they may get better results with it. But at the end of the day it is much easier to get better results with a better gun. You do get what you pay for
@@fix206 The old timers did amazing art pieces with hardly anything! Most used regular house tools or carpentry tools. Yet they created masterpieces! Also is not always the gun u have to also see what compressor is compatible. is the gun clean or does it have old paint left on the inside. Do u have filters or are your air lines water free. prep work is key also. so many different things the list goes on forever. A painter is a painter with a 10 dollar gun or a 1500 dollar gun. Even guys with 100k booths still get orange peel, dirt or dust. Just saying! My uncle is been painting since the days of Laquer, Centary, Imron. Dulux back when Dupont made lead based paints. He still uses a old Sharpe or Devilbis from 40 years ago no booth and the jobs are masterpieces. U do not need a expensive gun to be a painter just have enough experience and skills. The gun just hides the skills or experience. Good Luck my friend.
For sure there's a lot that goes into a good paint job. Correct prep work usually takes much longer than the actual paint job. And as you said amazing results can be had with just about any gun, however chances of you nailing a perfect paint job with cheap bottom of the barrel unfamiliar paint gun are slim. It takes some time to figure out the way the gun sprays, on average you'll go through a few paint jobs with slightly different adjustments of the gun until you find the right settings that work for you based on the way that you spray. But it takes a lot less effort to get everything dialed in and spring just about perfect with one of the high end, professional modern paint guns. They'll lay the paint/clear down great almost right out of the box, with some slight adjutants. Thats the point I was trying to make
I've been doing this for a while and over the years I've learned the patterns of when the bugs are out (Time of the year/time of the day) so I generally try to do it when bugs aren't out in high numbers (always keep tweezers nearby so you can pluck out anything that will fly into the paint). And as far as the dirt goes, I don't ever paint when it's windy or even breezy, and even then I hose down the ground about 15-20 feet around the car that I'm painting this way any of the dirt that may tumble into the work area will get trapped in the water minimizing the risk of foreign debris making its way into fresh paint
Neither of those guns are HVLP. It doesn't matter what's written on the box, they're not what anyone would call a HVLP designed gun. With what looks like a poorly designed conventional air cap, 1.4 nozzle wide open, and say only 30psi, there's no hope of getting a better result. I believe, (but could well be very wrong), that if you set the pressure to say 45-50psi and only had the needle wound say 1.5 turns out (to compensate for the extra fluid flow) that you might be surprised how well it could potentially finish! I'm not saying the guns aren't garbage, but I wouldn't expect any other result if sprayed in that nominal 2 Bar range that modern guns are "designed" for.
Totally agree with you, if you want professional results, you gotta use professional equipment. I'm sure there are people out there that were able to get those junk guns to work for them after a lot of trial and error I bet. Personally I will stick with my Iwata and DeVilbiss guns
I highly doubt that those guns are HVLP... I'm pretty sure I could have gotten better end result with them if I cranked the air up higher, but at low pressure where they "should" have performed better they actually sucked and that leads me to believe that they are not true HVLP guns
The brand of basecoat that I'm using is called PerfectCoat... One of my local paint suppliers carries this product, PPG and Dupont paint is just way too expensive... PerfectCoat base covers very well and paint match is very good as well and it is affordable !!! So it's a win, win, win in my book :-)
Actually if you are on the market for a great, professional paint gun I would highly recommend this gun right here: ebay.us/LK3cGo . I've been using one of these at my buddie's shop and liked it so much that I ended up picking one up for myself. It's under $200 shipped to your door. It lays the sealer, paint and clear down better than any of the guns that I've owned before, I will actually do a review on this gun a bit down the road. If I were you I wouldn't hesitate and get one. This is one of the best guns I have ever used, at any price, I promise you won't regret it!
Why do you say the other purple gun at Harbor freight is not a HVLP when it says it right on the box and price tag? I was under the impression that one just came with a regulator and the other one didn’t
Yes I wasn't looking at the box of the tag, but at the guns themselves that were out on display. One of them had an HVLP stamp on it and the other one didn't... So I just made an assumption... And you are correct, as far as I can tell the only difference between the two is one comes with the air regulator and the other one doesn't
If you're going to use of 2 guns in the vid, get the more expensive one... And crank the air pressure up to about 35PSI... You'll go through more materials, because there will be more overspray, but you may get a bit better result then I did...
@@fix206 thank you very much sir,i really need those guns bcoz of the price is cheaper then the original one and not bcoz the original is not worth it but here in my country they are 4x expensive money for us dollar sir that's is a sadness in my life😅
I run a 60 gallon compressor. Since filming of this video I have changed my compressor set up, it is still 60 gallon capacity but is much quieter and flows about twice the amount of air. I actually did a video on the compressor build. I'll be posting it a bit down the road. Stay tuned
Awesome channel! I found your channel through my home page. To keep the subscribers coming and active like me I usually watch 2 videos a week from various different channels Im subscribed to. Its alot of work pushing out 2 videos a week but its worth it so you don't loose peoples interest. In the past I found myself intrigued by a channel at first but after awhile you loose interest if you have to wait months for new content.
You are making a valid point, consistency is the key to make it on TH-cam. My plan is to push out 2-3 videos a week, that basically means that you have to put in a day of work/filming and the following day all of the footage would have to be edited and uploaded. It is somewhat easier to do if you already have an established channel that makes you enough money to cover all of the bills, but it's a bit easier said than done for a regular Joe such as myself that also has to work full-time to support a family. So I would have to come up with a plan to make this work, because eventually it would be nice to do TH-cam as a full-time gig...
I don't think purple guns are HVLP. HVLP guns are designed to perform much better at lower pressure. But in order to get them to spray halfway decent you have to turn the pressure way up
I see the results but it still look good to me to be getting painted with a cheap gun. If I can learn how to paint my own vehicle with that cheap paint gun i would paint all of the vehicles I have at the house😊 Nice video by the way. And Thanks for the Help of what to look for when prepping and what type of paint gun to use and what to look for when buying a product
To tell you the truth, it is harder to get good results with a cheap gun. Using a professional gun makes painting so much easier, almost as if there is less room for error
Here is the video where I did paint correction on the same vehicle th-cam.com/video/vq4dDB8hrAU/w-d-xo.html Here is another video where I paint corrected a Rolls Royce after I painted it in the driveway th-cam.com/video/7x9l2XlFr9w/w-d-xo.html
Maybe you are right, to be honest I don't remember which reducer I was using when filming that video, generally I use temperature specific reducer based on the outside ambient temperature. Other times I would use slow or even extra slow reducer if I'm laying down some silvers or heavy metallic content base coats.
@@fix206 ,,PPG use to give away these nice thermometers that would tell you what reducer to use and win that way your stuff always comes out nice…tho it’s also Gun setup,,Air to Gun,, distance from panel,,it could be one of 8 different things,,I’m not bagging on you,, I’m helping ,,, lmao keep the videos coming…
I hear you man... But a quality gun plays a big role in getting a nice finish... And this $15 gun just is just not cutting it... I get real nice finish with my Iwata though
@@fix206 ok,,not enough pressure to the gun or to much pressure to the gun ,,to close,,to far away,,the wrong temp reducer,,,won’t even help with a 800.00 Gun,,but there is guys painting 2020 BMW and making them look like Glass,,,with a HF $16.95 gun,,good Luck
The way I look at it, if these guns worked this good, then there would be no market for Iwata, Sata, DeVilbiss, Walcom and even 3M guns... Personally I have never seen a painter from any reputable paint shop use anything but a top-notch name brand gun
To be honest with you I'm not even sure, but I'm pretty sure that most of the 60 gallon compressors are going to be within the same ballpark as far as the CFM goes
Yes I've seen them, but they are big and bulky. To be honest I think it's more of a gimmick. And they are not cheap, I believe they start out round thousand dollars and go up from there. If you want to have a bit more of a controlled environment then I would suggest getting a 10 x 20 tent that is enclosed from all 4 sides. I actually have one on the side of my house that I bought from Costco awhile back and I used to paint inside of it years ago until I filed it with a bunch of car parts 😂
I've had other people tell me that they get better results at 40-45 psi... At any rate, at that point you're wasting most of the sprayable material by turning it into overspray... And materials aren't cheap these days, therefore getting a better paint gun will in time pay for itself
Both the purple guns are exactly the same it's just the pressure gauge included with the $29 gun but the other gun is actually a really good one you just have to completely disassemble both guns & clean them really good before using them just like u would clean them after using them. The purple gun works really good for high build primer if u make the hole bigger on the cap drill it out to 1.7 & u have a very good primer gun but either way u have to get rid of the little filter on the purple gun it works much better without it. Hope this helps guys
Funny thing is I do have the $15 purple gun that I bought few years back that I use just for primer because that is all that it's really good for. No need to spend extra bucks on a primer gun. 50-60% of primer gets sanded down anyway so the quality of that finish does not matter. But purple gun makes one terrible base/clear gun 🤯😡🤬
I didn't really see it as an issue since the finish wasn't to my liking anyways and I knew that I would be cutting and buffing the whole freshly painted side of the car..
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i am not a professional painter but have painted several cars and im embarrassed to admit that the finish that you got with the higher priced gun looked pretty good to me. I can see the orange peel, but many cars factory paint has that amount of orange peel anyways. As a matter of fact, you can spot a car that has been wrecked before often times by the LACK of orange peel on the refinished panels ONLY. (Most body shops use real high quality guns, hence no orange peel) Great video, and you sure did have some great results for painting a car outside. Excellent video as usual!
Thank you very much!!! The finish that I got with the second gun wasn't too bad. But that orange peel was heavier than the original Acura orange peel. If I wasn't doing a video I would've done just a slight cut and buff where some of the orange peel would have remained. But for the sake of the video I want to show people that even a really bad paint job can still turn out to look show quality, so I went ahead and made it look like glass.
In reference to the orange peel - it actually depends on the age of the car. A car that is 15 years old will have less orange peel because it gets knocked down over the life of vehicle by owner(s) washing and buffing their car. If you ever look at 20 year old car that has been well kept for, it has pretty flat paint.
@@fix206 Good job and excellent video the only question I have is the fact u were painting that close to the truck? Is that ok? How did you avoid overspray?
Been using both guns for years take apart and clean silicone off and you will get great results with these guns what's nice about it is you can have several guns at your use at the same time. All my paint jobs are in my driveway.
Do you crank the air pressure way up to get better paint/clear atomization ?
These harbor freight guns like a lot of air 35 to 40 psi to atomize better smoother finish
I did realize that toward the end... So in reality they are not HVPL, too much materials would get waisted at that high of pressure setting. I've set those guns up just as I setup my Iwata and DeVilbiss,
DONT BUY ANYTHING FROM HARBOR FREIGHT ITS ALL JUNK JUNK JUNK JUN
@@gene7902 brother I can lay clear with a BLK widow the as good as I can with a sata 5k
@@gene7902 ehh if u doing something onna budget it will be great
Also cheap paint likes to orange peel.
I use the Harbor Freight two gun set for shooting primer. The 74 dollar gun I use for base coat and clear. I spray the clear at 20 psi and get a nice finish. If for some reason things don’t look perfect you can color sand and make it look great.A lot can be said for proper setup of your gun and cleaning it throughly before you ever spray with it.
I did not do a thorough cleaning before spraying, just ran some thinner through it a few times and called it good. I sat the gun up the same way as I set up my Iwata and you saw the result that I got with it. With my Iwata I can lay both base and clear down where I normally don't have to do any color correction afterwards, might just have to take out a nib or two and that's about it
I agree if you plan to spray on a regular basis or plan to make it a sideline or business get a professional gun. I have used the cheaper guns for work trucks and in the shop for different projects with good results. While not a professional unit they work for those of us that might use a spray gun a couple times a year.
I normally pick up a lot of my tools used so I don't pay the premium when you would if you buy new. Pretty sure I paid right around $200 for each of my guns that I spray with. I don't paint a whole lot maybe two-three times a year. But I always try to achieve the best result possible without doing a whole lot of cutting and buffing afterwards, and these guns help me achieve that good finish so that's what makes it worth it for me
@@fix206
Same here buy gently used tools and equipment. Harbor freight sprayers are what I call my one and done, modification, or sacrificial tools.
It says on the price tag that the $15.99 gun is also HVLP. I'm just saying. The guns I've always used are all $500 plus. I've always used cheap guns for primer. I appreciate seeing how the Harbor Freight guns perform.
Yeah I've realized that they where basically the same after the vid was posted... I was just looking at physical attributes of both guns, one of them was stamped HVLP so that's why I went with it. I personally have always been an Iwata guy... Good, solid quality guns, can't say the same about harbor freight guns
Another very informative video (as usual). It was interesting to see the difference in the finish quality with the two guns. I was expecting the more expensive gun to do a better job and that proved to be the case. One thing though, as you pointed out, the preparation is far more important to getting a good result. Even with the cheap guns and orange peel, by the time you sand and buff the clear, it will be as good as using a good quality gun, just more work. But either way, the preparation defines the final finish. You are doing well painting outside, but it just goes to show what you can do at home without all the professional equipment, for less severe damage.
Howdy Bruce !! Yes, as you've said it, all that these cheap guns do is create more work for you in the end to achieve the desired end result. Because I ended up spending a majority of the day on a paint correction that I otherwise would not have done if I wouldn't have used my nice guns
It's all about the painter but it looked great even with the cheap gun.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video and show us how bad a cheaper gun will cost you in time. I personally could not do that. I was honestly thinking about one of those guns from harbor freight, and as a beginner I'm so grateful for this! Now I'll just go ahead and get one of the better 2 you have. Thanks again and keep that content coming!! God bless
If I were you I would avoid Harbor freight altogether when it comes to paint guns. If you're trying to do this on a budget go ahead and just buy a used gun on eBay or something like that. Trust me it will be easier to learn with a professional gun, you will achieve better results after a bit of practice, but with a cheap gun even with a lot of practice you're still not going to get a satisfactory finish. And at that point you probably would just blame yourself for doing something wrong rather than blaming a crappy gun. It's worth it to spend a bit more but save yourself a ton of headache in the end.
What did I end up getting?
I've seen a cheap gun do a lot better it was actually amazing
Turn up the pressure. Most cases the cheaper the gun the more pressure is needed. (most cases) The purple gun will lay a professional looking finish as long as prep is done properly. Wet sand after helps tremendously.
You probably could get a better result with that gun by turning the pressure way up, but it's suppose to be an HVLP gun and I just wanted to see how it would perform by setting it up the same way as I set up my HVLP Iwata. With higher pressure you end up with much more overspray, which basically means that you're losing a lot more material... It's an OK gun for a beginner and even a weekend warrior. I guess there's a reason you don't see painters at collision shops using these, and I personally wouldn't use it for anything more then to lay down some primer...
Mirror finish...good enough for the DIY guys just trying to get paint down...like you said. A little cut/buff would be fine. Great vid!! 🍺🍺
With a bit of practice just about anyone can paint in the driveway or a garage and get good results in the process... And if you're not not too sure about what it is that you're doing, it's better to lay the pain down on the dryer side rather than on the wet side. It is much easier to cut and buff orange peel than trying to sand down runs or sags in your paint job... Ask me how I know :)
I have painted quite a few cars with the purple gun, a new one each time old one with a little mods become my primer gun, I use about 35- 40 lbs pressure to loose the orange peel, get just as good a job as my expensive guns.
Got to clean that new gun perfect and then do it again, has a lot of oil on and in it.
The main point I was trying to make is that if I set up the purple gun the same way as I set up my expensive guns it doesn't perform the same... Sure you can achieve a better finish at 35-40 psi but that point you turn a lot of your material into overspray. Professional guns achieve nice finish at lower pressure thus depositing more material onto the panel rather than into the air.
And just like you I do keep a purple gun for primer.
A guy I follow on TH-cam painted a Corvette hood and achieved Excellent results with the Harbor freight cheapo gun.👍🏿
It is possible to achieve a good result by using that gun, but to do that you have to crank the air pressure way up. When you do that you create a lot more overspray, meaning that you lose a lot of your material into the atmosphere instead of it ending up on the panel that you're trying to paint. Good quality guns can achieve a good finish at much lower air pressure so this way you're not wasting expensive materials
I paint at home and have a few DIY budget guns. The profesional HF is one of my favs along with my Devilbiss FLG5. I use pressures on the lower end to keep overspray down but the profesional and purple guns do not like pressures under 2 bar for base/sealer and more for clear. I dont buy the purple guns anymore because they all leak air into the cup. My FLG5 can run at 15-20psi base/sealer and 22-25psi clear with low overspray. Cranking up the pressure on alll these guns give you better finishes at the expense of overspray. I have used expensive guns and they are great but for the DIY you can get it done with a less expensive gun if you learn to set it up to suit your needs. Cheers
I don't paint much at all. But I will admit the purple gun works good as a primer gun, just not for real paint. I have heard sometimes you get lucky and the machining on the tips works out really well, but that is an exception and not the rule.
All in all, a very informative video. I have heard all this before, but to see it in action is much better.
That's just about all the purple gun is good for, I've been using one of those for a primer gone for the past few years with good results. But with primer you're not really looking for a good finish, just coverage. Thanks for the comment Matthew !! Also let me know if you ever come across Holland Landing gear :-)
Huh I have painted a lawn mower, bunch of furniture, a pair of French door and several other things with the purple gun and get very good results. Yes they had some orange peel but nothing to cry about and I run anywhere between 25-40 psi depending on the paint I’m spraying. Not sure what you are doing with it but I’m getting good results with it?
Here’s my mower painted and clear coated with purple gun no polishing
pin.it/53sqyiN
I've painted several with the cheap gun and an 06 Chevy cateye with the $74 gun and the truck turned out great. May have just got lucky....
Been painting stuff for aout 40 years now. Even tried out the same guns and still use them on small parts etc with good results. You have a mess there yes but dude, it's not all the guns fault. You should have known painting outside will be a hazard and with any breeze at all you picked up massive ust and crap out of the air. The orange peel you could have fixed with wetsanding and wax or a new coat. From a step away it looks better lol. For times i have to paint outdoors I do the wet ground, use yardguard bug killer for as far out as possible , killing all the flying bugs you have in your paint. Then I built a 2x4 frame to go around the vehicle or parts and tarp over the frame giving some defense against what happened to you. In the end, normally have to do some wetsanding, then polish or another layer of clear if the formula allows it. The good about the guns? Cheap and they did not create runs.
I"ve been painting outside for a while and got it down pretty good. I always pick a right day for spraying. I never paint if it's breezy, alway saturate the ground around the work area so amount of dirt that I get in the paint is very minimal, but hey you can even get dirt in your paint job if you're spraying in the booth (been there done that :) ) Those guns just weren't that good, whenever I use my Iwata/Devilbiss guns I always get good results with them
Sharpe makes some pretty good entry level professional guns. Think they are in the $150 range. All the materials are expensive. The average Joe would be shocked what sheets of sandpaper go for above the 800 grit range. Your clear could have been part of the issue too. I've become a fan of Southern Polyurethane's products, but you can't just pick it up off the jobbers shelf. You are pretty creative in your work.
I have never used Sharpe guns, but I've heard good things about them. I've only ever used Iwata and Devilbiss guns, and had some pretty good luck with them. Personally if I were to get into painting but couldn't afford some higher end guns, I would just try to find a good used gun for a half or even third of the price. And you are not kidding when you talk about price of materials, and everything just keeps getting more and more expensive as the years go by. I have noticed that the clear that I used, set up a bit quicker than I thought it would so it didn't really have a whole lot of time to flow out, but the cheap guns that I used for spraying didn't atomize it very good either, especially the first gun used. I do appreciate the comment, more videos to come here shortly. Stay tuned 👍
I use these cheap guns all the time and they are good. Just clean all the silicon out of them and they are great guns.
Maybe it's something that you have to get used to, maybe if I would've spent more time experimenting with different settings I might've gotten a different outcome . But I went head and set these guns up like I would normally set up my other guns that I've been using with great results for a while, and the settings didn't work. And also I probably would've gotten better results if I would have cranked the air pressure way up because these guns didn't seem to itemize the paint too well. But at that point you're creating a ton of overspray and you're wasting a bunch of materials... Something tells me they're not true HVLP
This was a great video, I am looking for a sprayer to use on my fence and the $30 Harbor Freight seems like a winner. After seeing this, I will also repaint my wife's car, which is pretty sun burnt. If I can get it half as good as your worst job I will be pretty happy and a big improvement over the existing.
Don't think this paint gun would work out too well to spray a house or a fence with, because that type of paint would be too thick to pass through the small tip at the end of this paint gun. But I'm sure you can get your wife's car done with one of these no problem :-)
I stumbled upon this video as we inherited a 09 civic that I am restoring for my wife. It needs a 100% paint job and in several parts, large portions of metal are showing. I was wondering if I need a HVLP or a LVLP for my current set up. Someone have given me 2 of those purple guns
My compressor is a harbor freight and the specs are as follows
It's a 27 gal 200 PSI
Flow rate
6.3 SCFM @ 40 PSI, 5.1 SCFM @ 90 PSI
Volume
27 Gallon
AC Volts
120
Amperage
15
I am an absolute noob to paint. So if you're willing to spend some time I have some questions, I really appreciate you taking time to look at this
The compressor that you have will not work for auto paint unless you have some small items that you're painting. It will run out of pressure very fast and I don't think you would even be able to paint a single door with a compressor even if the tank is fully charged. Those purple guns from Harbor freight are garbage in my opinion, but if that is all you have then just go for it. HVLP is the way to go
Also, the black widow paint gun is amazing, you should try it out, it also has a rebuild catalog for parts, you can get a 1.4 and 1.3 tip, and it gives great OEM and show paint results
I may do a review on a black widow gun sometime down the road, just to see if it's any good
Where can I find this for I've owned the BLK widow HTE for 2yrs now and this is the first time I've heard of a parts catalogue
I was like "Woah.. that harbor freight looks familiar.." and then I realized you went to the harbor freight down the street from my house haha
LOL... what city do you live in?
@@fix206 I live in Auburn! I was literally just at that same harbor freight to buy the "Professional HVLP" gun to learn how to do autobody paint in my own garage, but after this video I went straight back and returned it haha.
Lol I am in Auburn myself... I live off of Warehouser exit off of Hwy18
@@fix206 Small world! At least I know there's auto body guru near by now lol
@@TikiMedia that's right LOL
What I would do: buy those paint guns (the ones he usually uses) on "flea-bay" for $250-400.
- Anest Iwata LPH-400
- Tekna Prolite
I've been using an Ebay LPH400 for many years, but just recently made a move to Iwata Kiwami4 and I'm very happy with it's performance !
@@fix206 sweet! СПАСИБА!! I'm officially trawling for project cars to buy with the confidence from watching your videos.
I also bet you know about data recovery. I was doing that for a while using a PC3000, made by Ace Labs in Moscow), before that I used a DDI4 by DeepSpar (made by a Ukrainian-Russian living in Canada), and before that ... started with an Atola ... made by another Rusky. And sometimes to change the head I had to use parts from Serbia, Belgrade. As soon as I saw you were using a hard drive's actuator magnet I figured you knew about that too. I'm basically moving on from that business, but it was great seeing how intelligent Russians are. The US FBI and CIA had to get special permission to use Russian hardware bc theirs is the best. lol. You buys are amazing. In fact, in the first video I already suspected you were Russian just from your appearance and how many things you knew how to do. УРААА!!!
What i've learned painting my classic VW Bug with the purple gun is that you need to crank the pressure way up to like 50psi to get them to atomize correctly. That way I get way less orange peel than in the video.
But at that point you create a huge cloud of overspray and a lot of your material doesn't make it to the panel thus being waisted... Still doesn't make it a good gun, you can normally lay the clear down like glass at 25-30 psi with a good, professional gun... I'm sure you can use a sandblasting gun and turn the pressure up to 100 psi and you'll be able to lay down some basecoat and clear through it 😂😂😂
I think the clear having all that peel might have also been because of the temperatures outside probably got too cold causing the clear to have a reaction or it got dirty
These guns just don't atomize the paint as well as my professional Iwata or DeVilbiss gun. There was no dirt in paint, mostly just the orange peel
@@fix206 yea it’s strange I didn’t even get that much orange peel while using spray paint and I used dupli color lol
One of the ways of lessening the orange peel is to turn their air pressure way up. But then you create way too much overspray and lose a lot of your material and that kind of defeats the purpose. Good professional paint guns will help you achieve good results at lower air pressure with more material on the panel rather then in the air... Brian from paint society channel tested out the cheap purple gun and he was able to get more or less good result with it. However you don't see him use that gun in any of his other videos. He always uses the high-end professional guns...
a really good review of the devilbiss d cup system. thanks for taking us through that.
You are welcome pitbull, I started using that system about three years ago and never looked back. It is so much more convenient to use than the standard cups that come with a gun. What really got me sold on it is the ease of cleanup. That part takes no time at all !!
looking forward to your paint correction video this is a great video might be a good idea to put the names of the two harbor freight guns so more users can pick this up in there recommend feeds!
I should have the paint correction video in a day or two. 👍
Thank you! Clear information especially on how you blended the clear coat on the bumper.
Glad it was helpful... Thanks for watching!
definitely needed to raise the pressure.....but it could be the clear as well, depending if its a speed clear and speed of hardener.
I to mi się podoba...pod chmurą a zrobione lepiej niż papraki w kabinach...
I'm loving your sanding technology.
Thank you very much!
Like somebody else mentioned, a little more pressure would have laid that clear out better. The $75 paint gun is actually a really good gun. I don't feel that it got a fair chance.
Maybe so, I just went ahead and set this gun up the same way as I set up my Iwata or DeVillbiss guns. With my guns I get satisfactory result at lower pressure. Because that's how HVLP guns are set up to operate...
@@fix206 Have you tried it since with more pressure?
No, I have not. I actually returned both of those guns after filming. I wasn't impressed with either one of them so I wasn't planning on using them any longer
Great video! Just bought a beater car and want to try painting car myself, would love to see video showing complete tools, supplies and cost breakdown for doing a budget friendly project like that.
What air compressor and hose should I get at Harbor Freight?
Good prep work is foundation for a good paint job. It may take you a day or even two days to get the car prepped, but if you want your paint job to turn out better and last longer don't cut corners and take your time prepping. I cannot really give you a cost breakdown because prices will vary depending on your location. But you would basically need to find an auto paint supplies store in your area and tell them that you need a lower end/cheaper basecoat/clearcoat materials. Try pricing it out that way. As far as the air compressor goes that would also depend on what it is that you're painting. Are you just going to paint one fender? Or are you going to be spraying the entire car all at once. Bigger is always better. I personally run a 60 gallon compressor and that should be a minimum for auto paint in my opinion. Also look at the specs on the compressor's air pump. Once again the higher the numbers of the pump output the better, that means that the compressor will have enough air output to recover while you are painting so that way your air pressure does not drop too low while your spraying. That would for sure be the problem with using a smaller compressors, they just don't have the adequate air output, so as you are painting the air is being supplied will drop in pressure and there will not be enough air to properly atomize the paint and clearcoat therefore your end result will look like sh!t. Instead of going to Harbor freight, take a look on craigslist or offerup in your area I bet you'll be able to find a decent used 60 gallon compressor for $200-$400... If nothing is available right away just wait out a bit until the right deal will come along. Just recently I helped a friend acquire a nice 80 gallon compressor on craigslist which is perfect for auto paint and he only paid $130 for it. That was a steal of a deal...
@@fix206 thank you so much for taking time to provide such a detailed, helpful reply! Much appreciated!
Don't be mad at yourself bro. Your spraying your car in a driveway with a 10$ spray gun, amazing job for the circumstances!!!
Thanks bro, but yeah, there is only so much you can do with a shitty gun like that. I guess if your dirt poor and can't afford anything better then it would do LOL
LOL exactly. Honestly I get my primer sealers to lay like glass with this gun. But I never use it for clear being if the gun fucks up there's no going back in the final stage. All in all great Job tho!
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 funny thing is I have been using that cheaper gun for primer for the past few years, that's about all its good for :-)
@@fix206 yup! If your ever looking for a seriously professional spray gun system hmu. I have the deal of a century
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 I'm all good for now with the guns that I currently use. At the very most I may upgrade my Iwata LpH 400 gun to an Iwata Supernova for clearcoat sometime down the road. I do appreciate the offer though 👍👍👍
Muy bien Bro saludos desde Honduras 🇭🇳👍excelente video 👌
Marco me Amigo... Mucho Gracias !!!
tempature plays a big roll in how your paint atomizes. thats the problem with spraying out side. but ultimately cut n buff is almost always necessary
You are right about that, especially when it's warm outside, paint materials don't have a whole lot of time to floor out and start setting up rather quickly
Always I learn something new because of you thank you very much for teaching us personally I appreciate it
My pleasure Carlos !!
one of the best paint review and instruction video
Glad you think so! Thank you !!
@@fix206 what is the different cup system you use? Do I need it?
I'm glad that truck wasn't mine!!
The truck is actually just fine, I know there's no masking film on it but since do a lot of paint around it, it usually gets a coat of "3M Overspray Masking Liquid Dry" 😉 before I paint.
Great video what spray gun do you recommend that's not too high end
If you are in the market for a paint gun, I would highly recommend the new Iwata KIWAMI4-13BA4 1.3mm... Before tax they run just under $200 on eBay, it is a great name brand gun on a budget
I have two of the cheapest HF paint guns. I always get orange peel and I thought I just sucked. Maybe time for better tools. Also - you didn’t get overspray on the truck?
Using professional guns versus harbor freight guns it's like night and day. That's why right after I finished with that paint job I went ahead and returned both of those guns. The truck is actually just fine, I know there's no masking film on it but since do a lot of paint around it, it usually gets a coat of "3M Overspray Masking Liquid Dry" 😉 before I paint.
Fix206 @Fix206 Thanks. I’ve learned a lot of good tips from you : frame pulling fixture, how to make a spotter, roof puller, tram gage, and now overspray masking. Much appreciated.
I got a lot more good stuff in the works for you, stay tuned my friend !
I would like to see the correction of the paint. I assume you are sanding and buffing it out to get a better finish with the clear. Thanks for this video, I was thinking about painting my Tahoe with one of those cheap guns.
Yes I will be cutting and buffing the car in the next video. I'll try to make the process as detailed as possible. It's a pretty time-consuming process so I try to avoid it if I can, and one sure way of avoiding most of it or at least some of it is by using a quality professional paint gun.
@@fix206 thanks again for the video. I have worked in a paint shop before, so I know how it all can be time consuming. I mainly dealt with the prep though. Spraying primer and all is easy for me. It was over 20 years ago though but I just thought i would give the base and clear a go at it and see how it comes out.
You can definitely do it especially if you have some prior experience. As long as all of your prep is good and you using good equipment, after a bit of practice to get your body and arm moving in unison at correct speed you can start pumping paint jobs out one after another :-)
What paint gun would you recommend for home garage paint job with 30 pound compressor?
Best way to go about it would be to get a used professional paint gun whether it is an Iwata, DeVilbiss or Sata.. Check eBay
how do you mix the cars primay paint before putting it in the spray gun, like what ratio should i use and what specifically should i use? Also, how do you find the right paint to buy before starting the job? I know how to find the color code, i just dont know what paint i should be getting
Basecoat a.k.a. paint usually mixes 1 part paint to 1 part reducer, some paints may have to be mixed different, you can always find your mixing directions right on the label of the can of paint. As far as the type of the reducer being used, most of the time you'll be using a urethane reduce. There is fast, medium, slow and extra slow reducers... Each of those reducers will have a temperature range they should be used within, printed on the label... So if it is cold outside like 50 -60°F then you are going to want to use a fast reducer, and it's warm outside then you may want to use slow or even extra slow reducer and so on... Find a paint store in your area that deals in auto paint, they will sell you the right type of paint that you would need, they can also answer a lot of the question that you may have...
The tag on the shelf says HVLP,the only difference is that one comes with the regulator.
You are correct !
Nice video! What size compressor are you using?
It's a 60Gallon capacity compressor... Usually keeps up pretty well while I paint
what kind of primer are you using before prepping and when you start wet sanding
I use a high build primer that I normally apply over the areas that get fixed. Normally I let the primer set up for about 24 hours before sanding
I can't believe you painted it outside
You better believe it !! I paint all of my cars outside 😎😊💪 Just check my other videos.
The middle gun was HVLP it was just the Non Regulator version.
Either way both of those cheap as guns are nothing to write home about
This is a perfect example that cheap costs you more in the long run. If you have the skills to do professional work, buy professional tools.
Yeah no kidding, now I have to spend a few more hours cutting and buffing. I generally don't have to cut and buff after I use my usual guns.
I use these cheap guns all the time and they are good. Just clean all the silicon out of them and they are great guns.
totally agree, 4 another 30 beans u couldve got a devillbis flg5 from spray guns direct $136 beans 😀
Exactly, if these are tools used to make money then cost should be low on the list of priorities.
Great video, im so far from painting but this video helps to undesirable all tricky parts, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I painted my ol 81 chevy truck with a harbor freight kit. Came with pint size sprayer/tank an a 1/4 pint(or so,numbers are guesstimate's) sprayer/tank. Did it in 2 days, 1 day 3 coats primer an 1 day 4 coats paint. I used high quality paint that has paint/clear coat in 1. An people thought it was a 4g professional job. 🤣🤣🤣
Id say 3 coats of primer is an overkill, the reason I say that is because primer shrinks and the more coat you put on the longer you have to wait for it to fully cure. You can put as many coats on as you want and then sand the primer down to make it flat as glass, right after you get it painted it will look great, but a month or two down the road especially in the summer when it's pretty warm out, as time goes on you will see that a perfect body work that looked amazing at first will shift a little bit. You are going to notice that there will be some slight waves in the areas that got repaired and primered. That's because a thicker coat of primer needs a good bit of time to fully cure and shrink before it could be sanded down and painted for the best results possible. Don't take this the wrong way, I'm not judging your work, just talking from experience. Paint/clear coat in 1 is called single stage paint, generally this is not a high-end paint material but something that is used on fleet vehicles such as trucks, taxis, etc. Its generally only used if you are repainting an entire vehicle since it os pretty bad at trying to match it up to an existing color of your vehicle, you cannot use it in a repair scenario where you only have to paint a fender or a door or a hood, because that paint will not match to the existing color on the vehicle, I have personally only used it one time about 20 years ago to repaint friend's car, it turned out fine, but generally you will never see a respectable paint shop use this type of paint, unless the customer is on the budget and wants his paint job to be done as cheap as possible, it's always going to be base coat/clear coat... Unless you go to Maaco if you live in United States... Once again I'm not judging your work, there are many different ways to approach a repair or a pint job
How do you clean the gun between different coats?
I use lacquer thiner to clean the gun out
I just got this same gun,on my first car..hope it works
I personally wasn't too impressed, hopefully it works better for you than it did for me :-)
With a cheaper gun a different air-pressure and way of using makes a big difference for no orange peel on finished result.
Even if you buy a $ 800,00 paint gun doesn't mean the result will be perfect.... the painter create the finish.
You can crank your air pressure way up to 50psi in an attempt to get a better finish and turn most of your material into overspray in the process. These cheap guns just don't atomize materials the right way. An $800 paint gun will not make someone a great painter if they don't know what they are doing and at the same time you won't see professional painters who paint day in and day out using these cheap Chinese guns, because they are junk! Otherwise why would a guy who really knows what he's doing spend hundreds of dollars on a paint gun when he can just get away with using a $15 or a $50 gun?
It would be nice to see the professional guns at use
Professional guns is what I use 100% of the time, that was the first Time ever I've used anything but professional equipment. I may do another review of couple of Chinese copies of the Devilbiss and Sata guns sometime down the road just to see if they are any good, because not everyone can afford a good, top-of-the-line paint gun 👍
don't blame the gun - I've laid flat ass clear coats down with the harbor freight purple gun - it's the clear your using and your mix rates. I've thrown away more expensive guns and always go back to harbor freight guns - they are great for one - two paint jobs then throw them away and buy a new one for the next project also don't just "full open" the adjustments - if you dial it in before spraying you'll get better results
I know you can crank the air pressure way up on these guns and end up with better/flatter finish, but at the same time you'll create so much more overspray and you're just gonna end up losing a lot of the material into the air. I personally just did not have a good luck with these cheap guns, but I can lay the sealer/base/clear out nicely with my Iwata just about every time...
Please post a video using your professional guns being used in your driveway at dusk so we can compare. I think under those conditions you got better results than I would have expected.
Paint Society has a video up using the 15.00 gun in a paint booth being used by a professional painter and he got way better results than you. There are a lot of things that factor into a paint job and the paint gun is only one of them.
I do all of my painting outside, if you look at some of my previous videos such as Rolls Royce Ghost, Acura RDX or Honda Civic videos. You'll see how well my paint comes out when I use quality guns. I actually watch paint society videos. That guy is real good, paint is what he does day in and day out. And I have seen the video of him using the $15 gun.. For all I know he spent a bit of time setting up that gun, while doing some spray out panels to see which settings work and which don't. I just quickly set it up the same way as I would normally set up my professional guns and I went to town. Maybe if I tinkered with it a bit more I might've been able to get slightly better result, but those guns are not great to begin with. I can guarantee you one thing though, you will never see Brian from paint society use that gun again on his channel. Because obviously it isn't that great otherwise he would continue using it :-)
Nice
Thanks, man !!
If you don’t thin the paint well and if you shake the paint instead of stirring and if you hold the gun at an angle instead of perpendicular or if you have too much paint output (which you did all of the above) than no matter how expensive or high end the equipment is, you will always get orange peel.
I thinned the paint out 1:1 as per spec sheet, I thin it out just the same when I use my Iwata/DeVilbiss guns and it lays down perfect. I do thoroughly shake the paint up once the cup is on the gun. These Chinese guns just don't atomize the material very well, I don't think they are true HVLP guns. I could probably get better results if I cranked the air pressure way up but then I would end up with a ton of overspray and a bunch of wasted materials that aren't cheap these days... This isn't my first rodeo when it comes to auto paint, but I can tell right away the difference between a cheap, crappy gun and a good professional one
Orange peel i used to get from high end paints no matter what ...like glasurit..
And if u over thin it youll end up with a bunch of hangers,but i use iwata for clear its just beautiful how it lays on even cheap clear,and base i use sata hvlp or tge rp
Also old school labour extensive teaching i had from europe and key is wet sanding the surface to 800ish ..youll see the difference
Where have you been miss not see any new videos good job as always
New vid is out with the explanation :)
Perfect
Thank you Luiz !!!
The 14.99 gun is definitely HVLP. The only difference in the 24.99 is the regulator and the tool is included. The cheaper one has neither
HVLP gun should perform much better at lower pressure. The 14.99 would probably do a bit better if I cranked up the air pressure, but then it wouldn't exactly perform as HVLP... That's just my experience with these cheap guns, maybe someone else could get them to work better for them
@@fix206 doubt anyone could do any better. My personal opinion is that the gun is worth the money and that's about all. I've bought 3 of them total. Only due to losing the needle spring in both of the first 2( I'm notoriously bad about losing tiny parts) I'd lose my little michael if it wasn't attached. But out of all 3 I never paid more than $10 because I made sure to get them on sale and with 20% coupon. The way I see it the gun is a steal for $10 but I'd probably never pay full price when I can have a good few options in the $30ish range on amazon that would perform a lot better. It's also worth noting that I do not paint professionally but I do prime cars several times a week doing body work and no matter what anybody says, that gun will shoot 2k primer with no problems whatsoever and I've ran at least 200 cups through my 3rd purple gun. It absolutely must be thoroughly cleaned after every single cup but it will lay it down as well as you could ever need a gun to because at the end of it all its gonna be sanded anyway. My purple gun has been used and cleaned so much its gray now. I'm officially retiring it tomorrow though. I've upgraded to the $25 green gun harbor freight has and I'm already thinking I made a mistake. It seems like worse quality than the purple lol but we will see
Funny thing is I've been rocking the $15 gun for the past few years to shoot primer out of. And to be honest I think that's the only thing that is good for. Quality of the finish isn't relevant when most of it will be sanded down anyways. And both of the professional guns that I use for base and clear I picked up used that way I only paid 25-30 cents on the dollar for them. This way it doesn't break the bank and I get a great quality paint job straight out of the gun.
@@fix206 I never thought of buying paint guns used. I guess I just figured high end guns were lifetime purchases. I feel slow now. Time to hit ebay thanks for the tip
I figured if you are a professional painter and you work at the shop where all you do day in and day out is lay down some paint, then sure, buy a new one it will pay for itself pretty soon. Nowadays I do auto body and paint on the side as a hobby, only paint 2-3 times a year and dropping $700-800 on just one of the paint guns wouldn't be such a great investment for me. The Iwata LPH-400 gun I paid about $180 (around $700-750 new ) at a local pawn shop about five years ago, and my DeVilbiss Tekna I picked up on eBay for right around $200 couple of years back ($$700-800 when new) and it came with a bunch of extra accessories.
Did you only use the red filter for trap the moisture?
I do have one moisture trap attached to the compressor and then I also use this small red filter right before the gun
Hey I have the same result on my 2022 Camry. From the factory.
Orange peel??
@@fix206 yes. Look at most new cars you'll see it.
Oh, I've noticed.. It's no joke !!
Good video. But did you have to paint so close to the other cars that weren't covered up. All that excess spray could be seen going over them. 🤔
I've been painting in the drive way for a while and the way I do stuff normally I don't get any overspray on any of my cars. I normally throw some plastic wrap over cars, some time I apply spray on masking that washes off with water and sometimes I park cars just far enough away that by the time overspray hits nearby vehicle it's already dry so it doesn't stick
It's never the gun! it is always the experience or the painters skills!
I think the correct way to say this would be but it's not always the gun. There are folks out there who could probably set this gun up a bit better and they may get better results with it. But at the end of the day it is much easier to get better results with a better gun. You do get what you pay for
@@fix206 The old timers did amazing art pieces with hardly anything! Most used regular house tools or carpentry tools. Yet they created masterpieces! Also is not always the gun u have to also see what compressor is compatible. is the gun clean or does it have old paint left on the inside. Do u have filters or are your air lines water free. prep work is key also. so many different things the list goes on forever. A painter is a painter with a 10 dollar gun or a 1500 dollar gun. Even guys with 100k booths still get orange peel, dirt or dust. Just saying! My uncle is been painting since the days of Laquer, Centary, Imron. Dulux back when Dupont made lead based paints. He still uses a old Sharpe or Devilbis from 40 years ago no booth and the jobs are masterpieces. U do not need a expensive gun to be a painter just have enough experience and skills. The gun just hides the skills or experience. Good Luck my friend.
For sure there's a lot that goes into a good paint job. Correct prep work usually takes much longer than the actual paint job. And as you said amazing results can be had with just about any gun, however chances of you nailing a perfect paint job with cheap bottom of the barrel unfamiliar paint gun are slim. It takes some time to figure out the way the gun sprays, on average you'll go through a few paint jobs with slightly different adjustments of the gun until you find the right settings that work for you based on the way that you spray. But it takes a lot less effort to get everything dialed in and spring just about perfect with one of the high end, professional modern paint guns. They'll lay the paint/clear down great almost right out of the box, with some slight adjutants. Thats the point I was trying to make
i just about to harbor freight thank for cool video
Be careful, you do get what you pay for ...
How do you do this outside without the bugs and other things sticking to the wet paint?
I've been doing this for a while and over the years I've learned the patterns of when the bugs are out (Time of the year/time of the day) so I generally try to do it when bugs aren't out in high numbers (always keep tweezers nearby so you can pluck out anything that will fly into the paint). And as far as the dirt goes, I don't ever paint when it's windy or even breezy, and even then I hose down the ground about 15-20 feet around the car that I'm painting this way any of the dirt that may tumble into the work area will get trapped in the water minimizing the risk of foreign debris making its way into fresh paint
@@fix206 Cool. Thanks for the advice.
What psi did you spray at with the chrome harbor freight gun?
I sprayed sealer and base 26-28 psi, and clear was sprayed at 32-34 psi
@@fix206 have u tried harbors freights black widow or the spectrum hte “professional”
عمل رائع...👍👍👍👍👍🥰🥰🥰🥰
Thank you very much !!!
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it... Cheers !!
Neither of those guns are HVLP. It doesn't matter what's written on the box, they're not what anyone would call a HVLP designed gun. With what looks like a poorly designed conventional air cap, 1.4 nozzle wide open, and say only 30psi, there's no hope of getting a better result. I believe, (but could well be very wrong), that if you set the pressure to say 45-50psi and only had the needle wound say 1.5 turns out (to compensate for the extra fluid flow) that you might be surprised how well it could potentially finish! I'm not saying the guns aren't garbage, but I wouldn't expect any other result if sprayed in that nominal 2 Bar range that modern guns are "designed" for.
Totally agree with you, if you want professional results, you gotta use professional equipment. I'm sure there are people out there that were able to get those junk guns to work for them after a lot of trial and error I bet. Personally I will stick with my Iwata and DeVilbiss guns
Harbor Freight website says that both the $16 and $30 gun are HVLP
I highly doubt that those guns are HVLP... I'm pretty sure I could have gotten better end result with them if I cranked the air up higher, but at low pressure where they "should" have performed better they actually sucked and that leads me to believe that they are not true HVLP guns
@@fix206 Agreed, Paint Society on TH-cam used the Harbor Freight gun and got an amazing finish, but he shot at 35psi
So what kind of black paint is that that you’re using I didn’t catch it
The brand of basecoat that I'm using is called PerfectCoat... One of my local paint suppliers carries this product, PPG and Dupont paint is just way too expensive... PerfectCoat base covers very well and paint match is very good as well and it is affordable !!! So it's a win, win, win in my book :-)
How much does a good or great paint gun cost?
Actually if you are on the market for a great, professional paint gun I would highly recommend this gun right here: ebay.us/LK3cGo . I've been using one of these at my buddie's shop and liked it so much that I ended up picking one up for myself. It's under $200 shipped to your door. It lays the sealer, paint and clear down better than any of the guns that I've owned before, I will actually do a review on this gun a bit down the road. If I were you I wouldn't hesitate and get one. This is one of the best guns I have ever used, at any price, I promise you won't regret it!
What primer have you used ?
I think I used OMNI primer
Why do you say the other purple gun at Harbor freight is not a HVLP when it says it right on the box and price tag? I was under the impression that one just came with a regulator and the other one didn’t
Yes I wasn't looking at the box of the tag, but at the guns themselves that were out on display. One of them had an HVLP stamp on it and the other one didn't... So I just made an assumption... And you are correct, as far as I can tell the only difference between the two is one comes with the air regulator and the other one doesn't
Am I the only one that thinks this looks pretty good?
LOL... I'm a perfectionist, so if it aint perfect, it aint good enough :)
@@fix206 I would be happy with that paint job on my work truck. I’m gonna give it a go this spring wish me luck. Gotta get a spray gun though.
If you're going to use of 2 guns in the vid, get the more expensive one... And crank the air pressure up to about 35PSI... You'll go through more materials, because there will be more overspray, but you may get a bit better result then I did...
@@fix206 🙏
Sir can you make a review for the fake devilbiss and fake sata jet china made from banggood please sir
I may do a review of those guns sometime later on down the road
@@fix206 thank you very much sir,i really need those guns bcoz of the price is cheaper then the original one and not bcoz the original is not worth it but here in my country they are 4x expensive money for us dollar sir that's is a sadness in my life😅
Great information
Glad you liked it !
what size compressor and CFM?
I run a 60 gallon compressor. Since filming of this video I have changed my compressor set up, it is still 60 gallon capacity but is much quieter and flows about twice the amount of air. I actually did a video on the compressor build. I'll be posting it a bit down the road. Stay tuned
Awesome channel! I found your channel through my home page. To keep the subscribers coming and active like me I usually watch 2 videos a week from various different channels Im subscribed to. Its alot of work pushing out 2 videos a week but its worth it so you don't loose peoples interest. In the past I found myself intrigued by a channel at first but after awhile you loose interest if you have to wait months for new content.
You are making a valid point, consistency is the key to make it on TH-cam. My plan is to push out 2-3 videos a week, that basically means that you have to put in a day of work/filming and the following day all of the footage would have to be edited and uploaded. It is somewhat easier to do if you already have an established channel that makes you enough money to cover all of the bills, but it's a bit easier said than done for a regular Joe such as myself that also has to work full-time to support a family. So I would have to come up with a plan to make this work, because eventually it would be nice to do TH-cam as a full-time gig...
Thank you for your videos
My pleasure!
Both purple guns were HVLP, the only difference is the regulator. exact same gun
I don't think purple guns are HVLP. HVLP guns are designed to perform much better at lower pressure. But in order to get them to spray halfway decent you have to turn the pressure way up
@@fix206 Can confirm this myself.
good vid what type mask you use sir
I use an 3M paint mask
I see the results but it still look good to me to be getting painted with a cheap gun. If I can learn how to paint my own vehicle with that cheap paint gun i would paint all of the vehicles I have at the house😊 Nice video by the way. And Thanks for the Help of what to look for when prepping and what type of paint gun to use and what to look for when buying a product
To tell you the truth, it is harder to get good results with a cheap gun. Using a professional gun makes painting so much easier, almost as if there is less room for error
good lesson in this... good video thanks ;-)
Thanks Brett... Glad you liked it!
you got a new subscriber. well done
Thank you Peter, Welcome aboard!
You aren’t worried about all that overspray on your others cars in the driveway?
Normally whenever I paint I either cover the nearby cars up with plastic sheet or move them across the street.
Can you send me the video for pain correction like you said or the link
Here is the video where I did paint correction on the same vehicle th-cam.com/video/vq4dDB8hrAU/w-d-xo.html
Here is another video where I paint corrected a Rolls Royce after I painted it in the driveway th-cam.com/video/7x9l2XlFr9w/w-d-xo.html
You missed it on the temp of reducer is all,,you needed a slower reducer and it would’ve flowed out…great Video tho,,,keep them coming
Maybe you are right, to be honest I don't remember which reducer I was using when filming that video, generally I use temperature specific reducer based on the outside ambient temperature. Other times I would use slow or even extra slow reducer if I'm laying down some silvers or heavy metallic content base coats.
@@fix206 ,,PPG use to give away these nice thermometers that would tell you what reducer to use and win that way your stuff always comes out nice…tho it’s also Gun setup,,Air to Gun,, distance from panel,,it could be one of 8 different things,,I’m not bagging on you,, I’m helping ,,, lmao keep the videos coming…
I hear you man... But a quality gun plays a big role in getting a nice finish... And this $15 gun just is just not cutting it... I get real nice finish with my Iwata though
@@fix206 ok,,not enough pressure to the gun or to much pressure to the gun ,,to close,,to far away,,the wrong temp reducer,,,won’t even help with a 800.00 Gun,,but there is guys painting 2020 BMW and making them look like Glass,,,with a HF $16.95 gun,,good Luck
The way I look at it, if these guns worked this good, then there would be no market for Iwata, Sata, DeVilbiss, Walcom and even 3M guns... Personally I have never seen a painter from any reputable paint shop use anything but a top-notch name brand gun
thanks for the great video.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
What compressor do you have
I got a 60 gallon DeVilbiss compressor... nothing special...
@@fix206 what cfm does it do
To be honest with you I'm not even sure, but I'm pretty sure that most of the 60 gallon compressors are going to be within the same ballpark as far as the CFM goes
@@fix206 ok cool, would you you make a pulling bridge and sell it to me? lol don’t have a welder to put one together. Of not it cool
Have you seen the inflatable paint booth?
Yes I've seen them, but they are big and bulky. To be honest I think it's more of a gimmick. And they are not cheap, I believe they start out round thousand dollars and go up from there. If you want to have a bit more of a controlled environment then I would suggest getting a 10 x 20 tent that is enclosed from all 4 sides. I actually have one on the side of my house that I bought from Costco awhile back and I used to paint inside of it years ago until I filed it with a bunch of car parts 😂
@@fix206 ok thank you
Ive heard harbor freight gun needs 35psi to lay clear down better
I've had other people tell me that they get better results at 40-45 psi... At any rate, at that point you're wasting most of the sprayable material by turning it into overspray... And materials aren't cheap these days, therefore getting a better paint gun will in time pay for itself
What tip measure used??? 1.4 diameter 1.3??
Creo que el acabado tipo piel de naranja tiene que ver con el tipo de punta que se usa mientras mas reducido el diametro mas lizo
Tip size is 1.4 on the cheese guns, But the tip size is also 1.4 on my professional guns and they lay the clear down very nicely
when you use 1.2 1.3 the breeze with the clear is softer 🤷♂️
I used the pneumatic and it demands more air pressure between 50 and 60 psi. leaves a better finish
Wow 50-60 psi is pretty high, I normally spray my clear at no more than 36 psi with good results
Good video
Thanks for the visit !
Both the purple guns are exactly the same it's just the pressure gauge included with the $29 gun but the other gun is actually a really good one you just have to completely disassemble both guns & clean them really good before using them just like u would clean them after using them. The purple gun works really good for high build primer if u make the hole bigger on the cap drill it out to 1.7 & u have a very good primer gun but either way u have to get rid of the little filter on the purple gun it works much better without it. Hope this helps guys
Funny thing is I do have the $15 purple gun that I bought few years back that I use just for primer because that is all that it's really good for. No need to spend extra bucks on a primer gun. 50-60% of primer gets sanded down anyway so the quality of that finish does not matter. But purple gun makes one terrible base/clear gun 🤯😡🤬
I see people using it for single stage allot also but I wouldn't even try shooting clear with it 🤣🤣
I've never shot single stage, but personally I would not use this thing for any kind of finish that I wasn't going to be sending down later on
Not so sure I’d be rubbing my fresh paint with dirt on it 😂
I didn't really see it as an issue since the finish wasn't to my liking anyways and I knew that I would be cutting and buffing the whole freshly painted side of the car..