I was sitting there all chill and learning from you And you had to break out solder on an automobile. Let me teach an old dog new tricks and go check out Devon vanderhoof on TH-cam
Excellent video folks! First video of your's I have seen, I look forward to checking out more of your work! Both of you communicate well clear speaking so you can be understood as well as explaining in simple English. I deeply appreciate this! I have been intimidated by these new fangled engines as in LS type engines. Have been involved in cars & trucks since 1976. I look forward to learning so much more from you two and your videos! Thank you be safe and take care! ✌ 🇺🇸
I noticed you used a scan tool? To reset the fuel trim I did a ls swap on a 71 Camaro I got the engine running but not idling right do you think I need to adjust the fuel trim your answer will be greatly appreciated thank you
I’ve watched this video 15 times. No exaggeration lol. Today I get to wire the truck and hopefully start it soon. I had to order a new throttle body and a few sensors but watching these videos gets me motivated to complete it. I just did the suspension, brakes, and bushings and it took longer than expected. Can’t wait it hear it run. 😅
@@UglyTruckExperience yes, they are aftermarket. They came with the swap and we’re in the truck when I took ownership of the project. Someone recommended shims so I’m looking into that before spending more cash.
There is always something to learn from your videos, I love that about your TH-cam channel. Too many others don't give the details of how they do the work. Keep on keepin on!
Thanks!!! We have been watching your videos and really enjoy them. We are behind on a couple of them and will catch up tomorrow night most likely. Keep at it and we will too.
My 15 year old son and i are in the process of doing this. 1987 stepside gmc and have a 05 tahoe doner. Have been watching your videos and it has been a lot of help. Thank you.
Thanks Jwag! We appreciate you watching our stuff! Sounds like a great project. We were just talking this morning, out of all the trucks we've had, we've never had a stepside. Keep us posted on your swap! You're going to love it! Emily and Jerry
I'm grateful that I just stumbled across your video and channel. You provide the type of educational instructional videos that actually show you details of how, what, and why to do _______! This style of video and HOST unfortunately seem to be very rare on the ole inner weebs today. Thank you (and crew you may have) for your time, effort and sharing your knowledge. Subscribed and binge-watching now. 👍😎
Thanks for sharing, I did a 6.0 ls swap into my 1967 c 10 stepside. Iam loving it . Thier is a lot more to it than people tell us , for instances a posi rear cause the power is to much for a one tire peel , especially in wet road conditions.next is was a returning gas line to the fuel tank ug. Steem line from engine to waterpump.then there's the gauges n speedodometer . After all that I love that is starts right up after sitting a couple months in the winter no preparation, thanks .God bless yall real good 👍
just seen your channel today, my son and I have been considering swaping a LS in our 1972 C30 Chevy flat bed. It belonged to my father's and has been sitting since 1997. We now have all the parts for the project and after your watching your video can check making it start of the list. I will check out all your videos and maybe see you at a event this year near Springfield MO.
I some what enjoy soildering and clamping. Car audio as a young man was my passion. gaining wisdom and proper tools changed my life. lol besides just twisting and black tape.
We like to throw as much information at you as we can, and hope some of it sticks. 🤣 And wire colors can't always be trusted... #pinsdontlie 😁 We appreciate you watching!
Thanks Scott! We use AllData for our shop program, so we have a bluetooth scanner from them that just goes to a tablet. We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
We have another swap coming up and I will make sure we show that. I use all of the original battery harness and basically just run a 6 gauge wire from the battery over to the drivers side and bolt it to the #1 lug on the fuse box. cover that wire in conduit use heavy duty crimp connections on both side of that #6. Thanks for watching We appreciate it. Jerry
Thanks for your videos. Got me re-energized on a project I started a long time ago. I put a low mileage '03 5.3 and 4L60E in a Jeep Comanche but due to various issues, it never got finished. I have the engine, transmission, 4:1crawl box and an aluminum Dana 300 transfer case that's not even made anymore mounted in the vehicle, but never got many parts of the project finished. The actual body is an '88, but it has a '93 Jeep Cherokee dash and main wiring harness that's been melded to the pickup part of the in cab harness. It has a Jeep TJ plastic fuel tank with a stock 5.3 fuel pump, but the tank/pump are not installed as the back of the cab has been cut off and I'm working on building a double triangulated 4 link suspension and eventually a cage to mount the tank to. I have the engine harness, transmission harness, Throttle Control Module with it's harness, electronic throttle, AND the '93 Cherokee engine harness with it's PDC (Power Distribution Center-under hood fuse block). I do NOT have a GM under hood fuse block nor any of the connectors other than the engine one. The engine compartment is a work in progress as I have narrowed the front grill and cut the inner fenders etc etc. The point is that there is not much room in there for the things that need to be in there. I like the idea of using a stock '03 vintage GM under hood fuse block, but would rather not have TWO under hood fuse boxes. Do you think it would be feasible to use parts of the GM fuse block not being used to run the engine etc. to take the place of the stock Jeep under hood fuse block? Have you ever done something like this? Jeff
Totally possible. We have not done that in the past but am pretty familiar with the jeep fuse block. It would for sure be a challenge of a persons wiring skills. The Jeep box is not the most reliable and if I we're building what you describe, that is exactly what I would do. Let us know if you get into it and how it goes. Thanks Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Forward 2 months and I have torn the '93 Jeep engine bay harness apart and removed a bunch of stuff including the '93 Power Distribution Center (underhood fuse box.) I have laid the '03 engine harness on the engine in the engine bay and tried to figure out how it was originally laid out. In doing so, it soon became apparent that the '03 underhood fuse box was designed to go mid way up on the Drivers side fender well. Not going to work on my project. I managed to find a spot in my engine bay where I was able to shoe horn the '03 fuse box after doing a lot of cutting on the mounting bracket but it is in the passengers rear engine bay area. And, I could not find a great place for the computer and TAC. So, I tore the loom off the '03 harness and pulled every fuse wire back through the harness until they all exited the rear of the intake/engine. I then did the same for each computer wire! I routed the fuse wires to the fuse box area and the computer wires toward the drivers side back of the engine bay. I ended up doing some changes to the firewall but got the computer and TAC mounted up under the dash where the '88 Comanche computer lived! I then had to shorten or lengthen darn near every wire! I used a set of factory '03 manuals, '92 and '93 Jeep manuals, LT1swap.com and other internet searches for help. I think it'll work, but time will tell. :) Somewhere in this project I also decided a custom harness would have probably been a better choice. Anyway, there are some details that I am struggling with now. One being the fuel tank and vent. Not sure what to do. I live in WI where emissions are not a big deal, but I also don't want gas smell to be permeating the air with the tank vented to atmosphere. I've read through the '03 manual where it describes the stock '03 Evap system and it mentions a fuel tank pressure sensor, Purge solenoid, Vent Solenoid, and Evap canister. I think you kept the Evap Canister but what did you do about the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor? Also, I think there is a Control Module for this system. Any input? I also have questions about how to make A/C work on this project...not that I really need it, but it would be cool. I've watched your video on using the '03 A/C module, but I'm not really understanding the whole system. What do you do with the stock square body controls? What would I do with the stock '93 Jeep controls? I saw that you used an AC compressor that is not the '03 GM compressor. I have a non '03 GM, non '93 Jeep compressor mocked up in the same basic position as the stock '03 unit, but am not sure how to plumb it into a system. Again, not real important at this point, but if you've got input, I'm all ears. Thanks, Jeff
Something else to consider is that I removed the truck intake and front accessory drive, switched to a Corvette Harmonic Balancer and currently have a LS1 intake manifold with the truck fuel rails/injectors/crossover/throttle body in order to shorten and lower the whole engine package to better fit it in the rig (hood clears when closed!) I have a LS3 water pump mounted that clears the truck throttle body and locates the radiator output/input well. I am using a custom bracket to hold a power steering pump lower drivers side and the alternator upper drivers side (but lower and further drivers than the truck layout.) There is also a bracket to hold a York A/C compressor for onboard air on the upper passengers side. I thought this information may be helpful concerning the Purge solenoid and where exactly it would dump fumes compared to the truck intake manifold. Jeff
As always great video very informative you guys are the best... I don't know what I would do without you guys walking me through my swap so thank you for that..... MY QUESTION IS: I am working on a 1971 Caprice which does not have HEI ignition.... instead had a coil ignition, I'm curious as to what steps need to be done on pre-HEI ignitions? As far as my factory wires coming from my firewall I have two wires (+/-) for my coil in place of the one wire for HEI 🤷
Hello Mathew. That power wire that came from your junction block that lead to the positive side of the coil is probably a resistor wire and needs to be changed to a 14 gauge regular wire. That would be your new hot in run start and crank wire. Hope that helps. Thank you for watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperienceanother question what's if my 1971 didn't have wire coming out of the firewall that went to a fuel pump, being that it used mechanical fuel pump on the side of the block, what do I do about the absent wire? Any input is greatly appreciated.... Thank you in advance
Excellent job sir, you make it very self explanatory . An the lady, all so was very helpful just about asking all the questions needed, Thank s great job
I was going to swap my 2001 suburban 5.3 into my 68 C10, but it's looking like that I'll be picking up a 76 C10 without a motor for my 15 yo daughter. This will be a great little project for the both of us. BTW, it look like that you folks are only about 45 minutes away from my brother in law who lives in Mount Vernon.
Watching this video made me confident , I’m buying a suburban run and driving tomorrow for the donor for my 64 impala!!!! I’ll come back to this comment to let you know it runs !!!!
Thanks Hunter. That's a question we've had quite a bit. We'll be sure to cover that in a video soon! If there's a specific question you have, we'd be glad to try to answer it. We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
Have you guys ever swapped a 88 silverado obs and used a 700r4 transmission ...your installs are super clean I bought my harness for my first one but since I have seen your videos I'm going to use the stock harness on this next one
Hello Eric. The 700r4 uses a throttle vacuum cable to control its shifts which can be a problem especially if you are going fly by wire. If doing fly by cable you will need to run that cable up and have it operate similar to what it did with the throttle body. I have never used one for that reason. Thanks for watching and keep us posted. Thanks
@@UglyTruckExperience I will definitely have to find a vehicle that comes with a longer cable the one on that came on the 88 silverado Is at least 8 maybe 10 inches to short ...I want to thank you guys for sharing all the knowledge I appreciate all your videos
Your videos have been so helpful in swapping a 5.3 into my ‘87 El Camino. Due to space constraints in the G body I wasn’t able to use the factory fuse block. I have almost everything figured out due all the great resources on the web, but I haven’t been able to get clarity on wiring the starter. I’m assuming I should run a relay with the switch wire from key triggering purple wire to starter. Someone suggested running a diode to this relay to protect the circuit. Thanks for any insight.
The reason for running a relay for that starter wire is to reduce the amperage that is running through your ignition switch to that starter. If you still have the original gauge purple wire that will reach the starter solenoid you can just run it directly to starter. That 87 switch and wiring was made to handle that. If you do use a relay, there is no reason for diode but you would want it to be protected by a fuse. Let us know how it goes. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
Hi guys, love your videos! I see that you seem to focus on older precomputer swaps I’m currently considering a swap on my 2002 Sonoma and am wondering if you guys have any plans to do any work on anything similar? I really want it to use the factory gauges and speedometer etc.. thanks for your great content!!!!
@@UglyTruckExperience plan is bore the 5.3 to a 5.7 and full rebuild with Camaro heads with new summit pistons and rods with a chopacabra cam unless you guys have some ideas that go better together
Everything that we do for customers is all stock. We recently had a truck in with Truck Norris cam in it that we had to have tuned. It ended up running really nice. I don't have the time or equipment to tune so for the most part we stay away from changing anything that wouldn't be a stock tune. Let us know how it goes. Always curious to see how those combinations turn out. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
Hi Dustin! We appreciate you watching! Here's a link to a playlist for fuel system info. th-cam.com/play/PL3Xf8yWArPC4TUjRqrBmqWNkxiJSnf84p.html And here's a link to a video to power up the 4L60E. th-cam.com/video/FDF76UCmB4c/w-d-xo.html Thanks for tuning in!
Cool great job I have a 1977 GMC SIERRA CLASSIC C15 pickup and I have a 1985 GMC SIERRA CLASSIC C15 SUBURBAN I'm restoring now it's painted now I was thinking about doing a LS swap.
My first truck was a 97 Silverado SWB step side 4x4! I haven't talked Jerry into swapping one yet, but it sounds like fun! Thanks for watching! --Emily
Thanks for your great videos. I have a 2002 fuse block. On the C1 connector, I'm using A9 pink for Run/Start. With this year, do you still use the A3 yellow? On Lt1swap for 2002 they say to use B11-Red. Only that makes no sense to me because I only need to quickly engage starter. At Lt1swap they go on to say that B11-Red feeds 12v battery + to ignition switch hot at all times. Are C1 connectors on 2002 and 03 and up color wired the same? I have a 85 wagoneer and my ignition switch is already feed from what used to be the Alternator and is battery hot now (with fuse links) like you showed us how to make. /again thanks for all you do to help us.
The 2002 wiring is different. Your trucks starter wire would go to f11 on connector #2. It is either purple with white tracer or might be yellow. A9 on C1 is correct for key on run power. B11 would work fine for supplying power to your interior fuse box as long as it is protected with link or a fuse which it sounds like you have done. We need to do a video on the 2002 and earlier one of these days. They are quite a bit different and it trips people up pretty often. Let us know how it goes. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
Jerry and Emily, thanks again for taking the time to answer our questions. On the 2002 fuse block, my F11 is a yellow wire, circuit 1737 described as Neutral Safty Switch Park/Neutral Signal. The F10 is purple with a white tracer described as Starter Relay Coil Supply. I just wanted to check with you to see if I should still use F11 yellow for my crank wire or F10. Thanks again, Randy @@UglyTruckExperience
@@nanningying did you ever get clarification on this I have the same fuse block and now I’m confused thinking that it’s just the diff fuses and no big deal … of course assuming gets me all the time please help thanks
Hello Brendan. The general rule would be to use a fusible link with a gauge that is four sizes smaller than the gauge of wire you are protecting. So If you have a 12 awg wire going to fuse box, you would use a 16 gauge fusible link. If you are using the OEM fuse box, you could use the fuse that protects lug number 2 eliminating the need for the link. Thanks. Jerry
I’m doing an LS swap in a FSJ. Your videos are the best. I have a issue that maybe you can help with. The 5.3 is coupled to a th400 what do I do with the park neutral switch? I really want to incorporate the p/n switch in the steering column of the Jeep. Any advise you have would be appreciated
Hello David. Give me some more details about your jeep. Year and any other info that would help. Donor motor and what you are using for a harness, etc. Will take a look at a wiring diagram and see what you are working with. Thanks. Jerry
You would use a fusible link that is 4 wire gauge smaller than the wire you are trying to protect. For example. If your wire was 12 gauge wire you would use a 16 gauge fusible link to protect that circuit. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
When you guys use a factory 2005 truck engine harness do you take it apart and de pin and remove the the wires that don't get used or do you just use it as is? Example if you were doing a swap and using a non electric transmission like a 400 turbo would you de pin and eliminate the transmission wires from the harness?
Hey David. I have looked at the number of wires going to that ECM that we don't use and really didn't see the sense in removing them. Even if I wasn't using the electronic transmission I think I would keep them just in case I wanted to go with a electronic version in the future. I do cut the not needed wires off, heat shrink them and shove them back in the harness just for looks. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
Glad you liked it! We use AllData for our shop program, so we use their scan tool. We pay a monthly fee, but it gives us all the info and wiring diagrams we need. We appreciate you watching!
I love your videos, very easy to comprehend. Im interested in knowing what type or brand of scan tool your using. Im looking into buying one. Please let me know. Thanks.
We appreciate you watching! We use AllData for our shop program, so we use their bluetooth scanner and a tablet. It gives us all the wiring diagrams and info we need, but we do pay a monthly fee.
Super simple is right! Lots of other simple ls swap vids go way past simple. Working on my first ls swap and wanted to know who you use to program the ecu and what all you have done to it? I’m running an 02 5.3, tbw with a 4l60e trans and want to keep ac also. Thanks for the advice. Def subscribed. Already gone through obd port, trans lock up and more.
Thanks so much for your comment! We use lt1swap.com/programming.htm for our programming. He has a ton of great LS swap info on his site, definitely worth checking out. On this truck we deleted VATS, rear O2 sensors, and had him program it for the gear ratio. Other than that, it is a stock tune. Here's a whole playlist of LS swap videos that might help you out! We really appreciate you watching! th-cam.com/play/PL3Xf8yWArPC5Zw2UPwTvSvFt8CjEBSFiO.html
Thanks you are welcome Good infor. You broke it down real eazy & simple 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽❤️ i burn my whole cab harness & and motor harness i order off ebay and could have just did it that way 💪🏼💪🏼💯
I have a 79 square body. Want to do a swap. Question: do they make adapters if I wanna run a turbo 400 or 700 R4? Also what video show the engine swap. Great video 👍thanks
They do make adapters for bolting up the torque converter. The bell housings are already compatible, no adapter required. The 700r4 is exactly the same as the 4l60e so you may be better off with no adapter and just the electronic 4l60e. The 700r4 requires a throttle vacuum cable that moves with the accelerator cable which can be a problem on a swap especially if it is fly by wire. Here's a link to the engine and transmission install on this 78 Bonanza. We appreciate you watching! th-cam.com/video/XanlbyNiLzE/w-d-xo.html
I’ve enjoyed watching your videos. Super informative. I’m about to start a LS swap in a 78 c10. Who do you guys use to program your PCMs? Not many options locally to get mine done.
We appreciate you watching! We have two 86 C10's lined up for LS swaps, so if there's anything you'd like to see, let us know! We use LT1swap.com for our programming. He has a ton of info on his website, and is always quick to get them back to us. 👍
I enjoy your guys content also the info on were to send the computer I have a few other questions about this what fuel pump do you use and also how about the 02 sensors and knock sensors
Hi Brian! Sounds like a great project. Yes, you will need to have the security system (VATS) turned off on your computer. Here's a video that might be helpful. th-cam.com/video/otPF2laSGwc/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching! Emily and Jerry
Great video as always yall! Just curious if you've ever had an issue with the sending units not reading correctly with the fuel pump on? I go over it a little on my latest video on the 86 C10 I'm swapping. I used a Delphi sending unit for an 87 in the 87 tank with an AEM pump (Holley subsidiary). Anyway I was just wondering if you've had that problem before.
@@UglyTruckExperience Hey Jerry, it was a ground issue. The gauge would go to full when the pump was running. If the ignition was in the on position without the pump on, it would read accurately.
@@UglyTruckExperience thank you! I saw in one of your videos you’re planning on using the donor fuse/relay box to power the headlights etc, looking forward to that! I’m going to attempt to use it for the electric fans and other items on my next swap. Thanks for all the great content. You guys are awesome!
I just tried starting my LS swapped S10 today using this wiring method and I think I might be using the wrong fuse box I have power in places that I should not have power when the key is off
A 70 c10 would have had a resistor wire going to the ignition coil that would need to be changed. Other than that the wiring would be the same for what is required to start up the LS.
First of all my wife wants to no What your dogs name is , And 2nd thing is your cold air intake you put on the LS and 78 pickup is that a custom one or what did you order And tell your honey he has inspired me on my lemon drop square body truck picked up 03 suburban 5.3 to put in it Thank you and your honey for showing the affordable way of LS swapping
Her name is Ripley and she is a mess. 😆 Here's a link to the intake kit we ordered, but it took quite a bit of engineering to get it just right. Had to make some brackets to mount it, and we recycled the flexible rubber duct from an original LS intake tube. But the finished product turned out great and the customer loved it! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGJ9JCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That's awesome to hear you decided to make the swap! Keep us posted!
Would all these steps be the same for a originally 3.6 v6 2012 Camaro to swap a 4.8/5.3 into it and get it going? It came with a 6 speed so I’ll probably bolt it to that. I’ve never done a motor swap but I’ve done a few transmissions. I’m super nervous but this video helped
The 2012 twelve camaro was available with a V8 and and also the v6 which had around 300 horsepower. It will be a totally different monster to put a V8 in. Technically it should be easier when it comes to the wiring. If you give it a shot, please let us know. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
Thanks for watching! Here's a link to the intake kit we ordered, but it took quite a bit of engineering to get it just right. Had to make some brackets to mount it, and we recycled the flexible rubber duct from an original LS intake tube. But the finished product turned out great and the customer loved it! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGJ9JCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nice catch Rickn8or. They we're totally unnecessary. I see people running those red wires to the lug on the firewall with no protection, so I was just trying to drive it home with protecting the circuit. Thanks. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience, I wouldn't have noticed it myself, but I've been chasing out every fuse in the fuse block to find power for building a fan control relay like you did, only in my '03 Suburban. FYI, the red wire on Stud 1 goes to the power pin on the 7-way trailer lights connector, but has no power because of the red plastic "B+" block prevents putting a fuse there until you're ready. The red wire on Stud 2 goes to an area near the Instrument Panel Relay and Circuit Breaker Panel to the left of the steering column, to join several others for a Trailer Brake Controller installation. Yes, GM left a live wire floating around under the dash all these years. Chasing wiring diagrams for days to find a fuse that I could convert to provide coil power to Relay #3, I finally looked at the fuse block itself and realized there were three empty locations to put in fuse wiring. (Sloped shoulders and flat foreheads...)
I’ve got all of your videos bookmarked! Both of these are keepers!!! If you can figure out how to Mount the AC compressor in the stock location without butchering the frame, I’d love to see what you can come up with. I’m always waiting for your next video. I love how y’all explain everything! Keep ‘em coming!!!
Hello Mike, A 2000 is a hole different fuse box. The wire that you will need to supply a voltage to the starter relay is F11 in connector number 2 which I believe is black. Wire will be purple and white, or could be yellow.
It will go to A3 in Connector 1. It should be a bigger yellow wire. If you back it up just a bit to 16:16 he explains it a little more. Thanks for tuning in! --Emily
Thanks for watching! We're still working on an accel pedal video. We had the PCM programmed for the swap, but as far as tuning the engine, no. The PCM controls everything, so all we did was fire it up and confirm that everything looked good on the scan tool. 👍
The green connector goes to your headlamps, horn and crash sensors. If you don't think you will ever run the headlights off that oem box, go ahead and chuck it. I personally have never thrown anything car related away but that is just one of my problems. Thanks Waylon.
If you are using the original donor harness like we are in this video. The purple wire that goes to Yellow in the fuse box is used to fire up the Starter relay that sends power to your starter solenoid through the donor harness. Jerry
As you mentioned about the main hot power wire (that originally came from the battery / starter) and now leads from the pcm / fuse box. Do I still need the “midi fuse” on the firewall for anything else?
If you are using the lug on the donor fuse box to power up the interior fuse box of the truck, you would not need another fuse. I know in this video I also used fusible link on that circuit. It was not necessary. I just don't want people out there creating circuits that are not protected by some form of fuse. You can run as many fuses you like on a circuit with no problems. But making a circuit with no protection can be a real problem. Thanks. Jerry
If you are talking the fusible link from alternator to battery, It is 8 awg. Part number STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS A118L. For other circuits, As and example. If you were going to a 12 awg wire you would add 4 to it and use 16 awg fuse link. Just add 4 to whatever wire size you are protecting and that is your fuse link size. Hope that helps
@@UglyTruckExperience that’s extremely helpful! I was on step one where you guys added the two fusible links. I need to start with my harness and measure the wire thickness. Thanks!
If your running those power wires to a donor OEM fuse box to lug number 2 you can actually skip using the fusible links if that helps. Lug number 2 is protected by a Maxi fuse that sits right next to the lug. It doesn't hurt to have both though if you like. Keep us posted Thanks Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience oh very helpful! I found a link at my local parts store I might try that and return it. I’ve got to say, I watched all your LS swap videos at least 5 times each. From the wiring to the installation, the refresh of gaskets, and knock sensors. You guys have a VERY clear and easy way of explaining these steps to people who aren’t affluent in LS. Thank you for taking the time to document your knowledge and answer these questions from the community. 🙏🏽
I have a question i am doing a swap in a 1975 caprice and a 1971 Caprice... This info applies to the '75 as it ran a hei ignition.... But the'71 utilizes a coil ignition, any input on the wiring as far as coil ignition as opposed to hei... Any input from you guys is alway appreciated y'all are the LS gurus for sure, love your videos always learn something👍 and alway get inspiration
Hello Matthew. Your 71 will have a resistor wire that came from the firewall and went to the positive side of your ignition coil. You will want to replace that wire with a regular 14 awg wire that will now be your wire going to your ls wiring the same as that wire that went to your 75 HEI. It also had a wire that went from the starter solenoid up to the positive side of coil but that wire is not needed for a ls swap and you will just need to eliminate it. Good luck. Hope this helps. Jerry
Thanks for watching! We use Alldata for our shop program, so we use their bluetooth scanner and tablet. It does most everything I need but we do pay a monthly subscription for it that includes all the shop info that I need also. There are a ton of options out there and the cost of them has come down a bunch which is great. Thanks for watching Jerry
I send the computer to a programmer that removes the security system, eliminates some of the emissions that I don't use and programs it for gear ratios and tire size for the vehicle it is going in. In this truck I used a Holley part # 12-156 fuel pump. Thanks
Do you guys recall what you did with the brown wire that runs from the firewall bulkhead to the alternator? Im wiring up an almost identical swap (78 C10/ 04 Silverado donor) and see conflicting information on it.
You shouldn't have to do anything with that wire. I fold it over and throw some heat shrink over it. Doesn't have anything to do with the amp meter. Jerry
Hello Bill. Your the first person to catch that. I see most of these done with the power leads tied to that lug on the firewall or another power source that is not protected. So I just try to stress the importance of protecting that circuit. In this case it doesn't hurt anything, but it is definitely overkill. Thanks. Jerry
Love this channel! U got me lookin for a powertrain from 04ish tahoe. I think they're lm7 . Putting it in my 1969 gmc. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Plz. Ty.🙏🏽 I'm trying to figure out the easiest way. What do I do with wiring I won't use like abs ect.? Should I use stock harness or a painless? What do I do about gauge cluster? Oem or Dakota digital? Connectivity? I'm overwhelmed . Tha KS again fellas.
Hello Chicanopatriot. We have a 1970 c10 that has a LM7 and a 4L60 transmission. Was a fun truck to swap and is great driving now. We prefer to work with the original harness. If removed from the donor properly, It will only have what is needed to run the engine, transmission, AC and cooling fans. All other items like ABS are a different harness and just not used. I like the original cluster but also like the digital dash. It is just a preference. Both are pretty simple to wire. When your looking for that donor, whatever year you end up with I would just try to stay with the Gen 3 and keep the stock camshaft. It will save you some headache. Thanks for watching and keep us posted. Jerry and Emily
On the white connector, you have a yellow wire that you connect to starter solenoid wire on original harness (purple). I do not have the yellow wire. Harness is off 02 2500hd with same 6.0 engine.
The 2002 is a totally different monster. Your purple starter wire from the original trucks firewall will go to position F11 in connector number 2 in your donor fuse box. It will either be a purple wire with white tracer or could be a yellow wire. Hope that helps. Jerry
And do I just splice into the existing wire in the donor fuse box, or do I put the purple wire on firewall in place of that wire, removing the existing wire (purple wire with white tracer or yellow)
You can just spice your original purple from your truck to the wire that is going into position f11 on connector 2 and that will be your power that makes the starter relay work. What are you swapping a motor into?
👋 Using a 4L60E transmission too? Check out this video! ▶▶ th-cam.com/video/FDF76UCmB4c/w-d-xo.html
I was sitting there all chill and learning from you And you had to break out solder on an automobile. Let me teach an old dog new tricks and go check out Devon vanderhoof on TH-cam
Excellent video folks! First video of your's I have seen, I look forward to checking out more of your work! Both of you communicate well clear speaking so you can be understood as well as explaining in simple English. I deeply appreciate this! I have been intimidated by these new fangled engines as in LS type engines. Have been involved in cars & trucks since 1976. I look forward to learning so much more from you two and your videos! Thank you be safe and take care! ✌ 🇺🇸
Thank you! We had another LS swap show up last weekend, so there's plenty more LS content on the horizon! We appreciate you watching! 👋
I noticed you used a scan tool? To reset the fuel trim I did a ls swap on a 71 Camaro I got the engine running but not idling right do you think I need to adjust the fuel trim your answer will be greatly appreciated thank you
Can you give me a description of what it's doing? How it's idling?
I’ve watched this video 15 times. No exaggeration lol. Today I get to wire the truck and hopefully start it soon. I had to order a new throttle body and a few sensors but watching these videos gets me motivated to complete it. I just did the suspension, brakes, and bushings and it took longer than expected. Can’t wait it hear it run. 😅
It always takes longer than expected. How did the start go? Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience my replacement starter isn’t fitting correctly so no start. Soon!
Are you running headers? Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience yes, they are aftermarket. They came with the swap and we’re in the truck when I took ownership of the project. Someone recommended shims so I’m looking into that before spending more cash.
@@Fahrenheit_Motorsports you running?
There is always something to learn from your videos, I love that about your TH-cam channel. Too many others don't give the details of how they do the work. Keep on keepin on!
You know we love details! 🤓
Exactly, my son and I watch to learn something new every video!
Thanks!!! We have been watching your videos and really enjoy them. We are behind on a couple of them and will catch up tomorrow night most likely. Keep at it and we will too.
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@clunkersandclassics needs to do some homework before he burns his Chevy nomad wagon up
This is the best wiring tutorial I’ve seen for ls squarebodies.
Thank you! 👋 We appreciate you watching! We have a bunch of other LS swap stuff too! th-cam.com/play/PL3Xf8yWArPC5Zw2UPwTvSvFt8CjEBSFiO.html
Outstanding video! My tired 84 SBC 350 is just about ready to be replaced and I plan on doing a 6.0L LS swap and this is a massive help.
Thanks so much, and best of luck with your swap! You're going to love it! --Emily
I started watching these¹ because I heard they like to solder here. Soldering is what I'm into, I'm a Soldering fan!
😆 You came to the right place! Check out this video! 😁 th-cam.com/video/d8mcQl-rYr4/w-d-xo.html
My 15 year old son and i are in the process of doing this.
1987 stepside gmc and have a 05 tahoe doner. Have been watching your videos and it has been a lot of help.
Thank you.
Thanks Jwag! We appreciate you watching our stuff! Sounds like a great project. We were just talking this morning, out of all the trucks we've had, we've never had a stepside. Keep us posted on your swap! You're going to love it! Emily and Jerry
I'm grateful that I just stumbled across your video and channel. You provide the type of educational instructional videos that actually show you details of how, what, and why to do _______! This style of video and HOST unfortunately seem to be very rare on the ole inner weebs today. Thank you (and crew you may have) for your time, effort and sharing your knowledge. Subscribed and binge-watching now. 👍😎
Thanks so much John! We're glad you found us! 😁 --Emily and Jerry
Sunday morning beautiful, hearing that truck start was like a sermon an dinner waiting after service.. great job brother
Thanks William! We appreciate you watching!
Thanks for sharing, I did a 6.0 ls swap into my 1967 c 10 stepside. Iam loving it . Thier is a lot more to it than people tell us , for instances a posi rear cause the power is to much for a one tire peel , especially in wet road conditions.next is was a returning gas line to the fuel tank ug. Steem line from engine to waterpump.then there's the gauges n speedodometer . After all that I love that is starts right up after sitting a couple months in the winter no preparation, thanks .God bless yall real good 👍
There is a lot more to it than people think. But it's definitely worth it!
Love these informative videos. Your channel is growing because of that as well! Thank You.
Thanks for watching!
just seen your channel today, my son and I have been considering swaping a LS in our 1972 C30 Chevy flat bed. It belonged to my father's and has been sitting since 1997. We now have all the parts for the project and after your watching your video can check making it start of the list. I will check out all your videos and maybe see you at a event this year near Springfield MO.
Sounds like an awesome project! If you see us around somewhere, be sure to say hey! Thanks for tuning in!
I some what enjoy soildering and clamping. Car audio as a young man was my passion. gaining wisdom and proper tools changed my life. lol besides just twisting and black tape.
Hey, the ol' twist and tape will get you home in a pinch! 😁 Thanks for tuning in!
Your videos are awsome. I am making my list of parts for my first ls swap in a 69 c10. Thanks for taking the time to explain in layman's terms
You're going to love it!
You guys are amazing on what you do
Love your you tube channel. Lots to learn from you sr .
Thanks! We appreciate you watching!
very nice job on that truck. There is a lot of very cool custom work done in that engine compartment, and even on the whole truck!
Thanks 👍
Recently came across your channel, very informative and will continue to watch. I really like the fact that you are using the factory harness
Glad you found us! There are a ton of reasons we like to use the factory harness. 👍 Thanks for watching. --Jerry
Keep the videos coming. I Love the simple way things are explained!!!❤
Thanks Slayer! We have plenty more videos on the way!
Great video! The explanation and demonstration are what so many others are lacking. Count me in I'm subscribed!
Thanks so much! We're just starting a couple LS swaps right now, so there's plenty more LS content headed your way! 👍👍
I like the way you show the position of the wire. i do the same thing in my videos because i have trouble with colors.
We like to throw as much information at you as we can, and hope some of it sticks. 🤣 And wire colors can't always be trusted... #pinsdontlie 😁 We appreciate you watching!
I came for the wiring tips. I subscribed for the clamping and soldering.
😆 Thanks for subscribing! We appreciate it!
I was curious as to the brand scan tool you were using . What a great how to video , thanks so much .
Thanks Scott! We use AllData for our shop program, so we have a bluetooth scanner from them that just goes to a tablet. We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
I would like to see how you ran your battery wires from the stock location to the stock fuse block.Great Videos,very good information !
We have another swap coming up and I will make sure we show that. I use all of the original battery harness and basically just run a 6 gauge wire from the battery over to the drivers side and bolt it to the #1 lug on the fuse box. cover that wire in conduit use heavy duty crimp connections on both side of that #6. Thanks for watching We appreciate it. Jerry
I can’t afforded college, I work 60 hours a week to try to provide for my family, thank you
We appreciate you taking the time to watch our videos!
Thanks for your videos. Got me re-energized on a project I started a long time ago. I put a low mileage '03 5.3 and 4L60E in a Jeep Comanche but due to various issues, it never got finished. I have the engine, transmission, 4:1crawl box and an aluminum Dana 300 transfer case that's not even made anymore mounted in the vehicle, but never got many parts of the project finished. The actual body is an '88, but it has a '93 Jeep Cherokee dash and main wiring harness that's been melded to the pickup part of the in cab harness. It has a Jeep TJ plastic fuel tank with a stock 5.3 fuel pump, but the tank/pump are not installed as the back of the cab has been cut off and I'm working on building a double triangulated 4 link suspension and eventually a cage to mount the tank to.
I have the engine harness, transmission harness, Throttle Control Module with it's harness, electronic throttle, AND the '93 Cherokee engine harness with it's PDC (Power Distribution Center-under hood fuse block). I do NOT have a GM under hood fuse block nor any of the connectors other than the engine one. The engine compartment is a work in progress as I have narrowed the front grill and cut the inner fenders etc etc. The point is that there is not much room in there for the things that need to be in there.
I like the idea of using a stock '03 vintage GM under hood fuse block, but would rather not have TWO under hood fuse boxes. Do you think it would be feasible to use parts of the GM fuse block not being used to run the engine etc. to take the place of the stock Jeep under hood fuse block? Have you ever done something like this?
Jeff
Totally possible. We have not done that in the past but am pretty familiar with the jeep fuse block. It would for sure be a challenge of a persons wiring skills. The Jeep box is not the most reliable and if I we're building what you describe, that is exactly what I would do. Let us know if you get into it and how it goes. Thanks Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Forward 2 months and I have torn the '93 Jeep engine bay harness apart and removed a bunch of stuff including the '93 Power Distribution Center (underhood fuse box.) I have laid the '03 engine harness on the engine in the engine bay and tried to figure out how it was originally laid out. In doing so, it soon became apparent that the '03 underhood fuse box was designed to go mid way up on the Drivers side fender well. Not going to work on my project. I managed to find a spot in my engine bay where I was able to shoe horn the '03 fuse box after doing a lot of cutting on the mounting bracket but it is in the passengers rear engine bay area. And, I could not find a great place for the computer and TAC. So, I tore the loom off the '03 harness and pulled every fuse wire back through the harness until they all exited the rear of the intake/engine. I then did the same for each computer wire! I routed the fuse wires to the fuse box area and the computer wires toward the drivers side back of the engine bay. I ended up doing some changes to the firewall but got the computer and TAC mounted up under the dash where the '88 Comanche computer lived! I then had to shorten or lengthen darn near every wire! I used a set of factory '03 manuals, '92 and '93 Jeep manuals, LT1swap.com and other internet searches for help. I think it'll work, but time will tell. :) Somewhere in this project I also decided a custom harness would have probably been a better choice.
Anyway, there are some details that I am struggling with now. One being the fuel tank and vent. Not sure what to do. I live in WI where emissions are not a big deal, but I also don't want gas smell to be permeating the air with the tank vented to atmosphere. I've read through the '03 manual where it describes the stock '03 Evap system and it mentions a fuel tank pressure sensor, Purge solenoid, Vent Solenoid, and Evap canister. I think you kept the Evap Canister but what did you do about the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor? Also, I think there is a Control Module for this system. Any input?
I also have questions about how to make A/C work on this project...not that I really need it, but it would be cool. I've watched your video on using the '03 A/C module, but I'm not really understanding the whole system. What do you do with the stock square body controls? What would I do with the stock '93 Jeep controls? I saw that you used an AC compressor that is not the '03 GM compressor. I have a non '03 GM, non '93 Jeep compressor mocked up in the same basic position as the stock '03 unit, but am not sure how to plumb it into a system. Again, not real important at this point, but if you've got input, I'm all ears.
Thanks, Jeff
Something else to consider is that I removed the truck intake and front accessory drive, switched to a Corvette Harmonic Balancer and currently have a LS1 intake manifold with the truck fuel rails/injectors/crossover/throttle body in order to shorten and lower the whole engine package to better fit it in the rig (hood clears when closed!) I have a LS3 water pump mounted that clears the truck throttle body and locates the radiator output/input well. I am using a custom bracket to hold a power steering pump lower drivers side and the alternator upper drivers side (but lower and further drivers than the truck layout.) There is also a bracket to hold a York A/C compressor for onboard air on the upper passengers side. I thought this information may be helpful concerning the Purge solenoid and where exactly it would dump fumes compared to the truck intake manifold. Jeff
Nice lc. Really like the Toyota logo mod. Going to this on my 1997. I’m in the process of the ls swap. Lc has 400k miles.
As always great video very informative you guys are the best... I don't know what I would do without you guys walking me through my swap so thank you for that..... MY QUESTION IS: I am working on a 1971 Caprice which does not have HEI ignition.... instead had a coil ignition, I'm curious as to what steps need to be done on pre-HEI ignitions? As far as my factory wires coming from my firewall I have two wires (+/-) for my coil in place of the one wire for HEI 🤷
Hello Mathew. That power wire that came from your junction block that lead to the positive side of the coil is probably a resistor wire and needs to be changed to a 14 gauge regular wire. That would be your new hot in run start and crank wire. Hope that helps. Thank you for watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperienceanother question what's if my 1971 didn't have wire coming out of the firewall that went to a fuel pump, being that it used mechanical fuel pump on the side of the block, what do I do about the absent wire? Any input is greatly appreciated.... Thank you in advance
Your camera girl is smart and quick witted 😂😂😂. Nice “how to” video!
I like to keep him on his toes. 😂😂 We appreciate you watching!
Excellent job sir, you make it very self explanatory . An the lady, all so was very helpful just about asking all the questions needed, Thank s great job
Thanks so much, Carlos! We appreciate you watching our stuff! --Emily and Jerry
I was going to swap my 2001 suburban 5.3 into my 68 C10, but it's looking like that I'll be picking up a 76 C10 without a motor for my 15 yo daughter. This will be a great little project for the both of us.
BTW, it look like that you folks are only about 45 minutes away from my brother in law who lives in Mount Vernon.
Small world! That sounds like an awesome project! If you guys have any questions along the way, just leave us a comment and we'll do our best to help!
Thanks for another great video and the swap looks very clean and you guys make it looks very easy to do one question what scanner you used
Thanks! And thanks for watching! We use AllData.
Cleanest video I’ve seen so far.. I got a question can I do this with a stock Colorado fuse box following your steps so it could start🎉
Hello Jonathan. You would need to elaborate a bit. What are you swapping and using in your swap? Jerry
Watching this video made me confident , I’m buying a suburban run and driving tomorrow for the donor for my 64 impala!!!!
I’ll come back to this comment to let you know it runs !!!!
Thanks Jesus. That sounds like a great car for a LS. You will enjoy it. Jerry and Emily
Wow. Very informative and what a clean install. Great job.
Thank you! And thanks for watching! 👍
Very useful info, could you go more in depth of how you routed the battery wires?
Would really appreciate it.
Thanks Hunter. That's a question we've had quite a bit. We'll be sure to cover that in a video soon! If there's a specific question you have, we'd be glad to try to answer it. We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
Have you guys ever swapped a 88 silverado obs and used a 700r4 transmission ...your installs are super clean I bought my harness for my first one but since I have seen your videos I'm going to use the stock harness on this next one
Hello Eric. The 700r4 uses a throttle vacuum cable to control its shifts which can be a problem especially if you are going fly by wire. If doing fly by cable you will need to run that cable up and have it operate similar to what it did with the throttle body. I have never used one for that reason. Thanks for watching and keep us posted. Thanks
@@UglyTruckExperience I will definitely have to find a vehicle that comes with a longer cable the one on that came on the 88 silverado Is at least 8 maybe 10 inches to short ...I want to thank you guys for sharing all the knowledge I appreciate all your videos
Your videos have been so helpful in swapping a 5.3 into my ‘87 El Camino. Due to space constraints in the G body I wasn’t able to use the factory fuse block. I have almost everything figured out due all the great resources on the web, but I haven’t been able to get clarity on wiring the starter. I’m assuming I should run a relay with the switch wire from key triggering purple wire to starter. Someone suggested running a diode to this relay to protect the circuit. Thanks for any insight.
The reason for running a relay for that starter wire is to reduce the amperage that is running through your ignition switch to that starter. If you still have the original gauge purple wire that will reach the starter solenoid you can just run it directly to starter. That 87 switch and wiring was made to handle that. If you do use a relay, there is no reason for diode but you would want it to be protected by a fuse. Let us know how it goes. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience awesome, thank you so much for such a quick reply.
Just found your channel. Americans doing America stuff! Had to sub.
💪😎 Thanks for subscribing! Glad you found us!
Hi guys, love your videos! I see that you seem to focus on older precomputer swaps I’m currently considering a swap on my 2002 Sonoma and am wondering if you guys have any plans to do any work on anything similar? I really want it to use the factory gauges and speedometer etc.. thanks for your great content!!!!
We are always open to doing a swap on anything, but don't have anything like that on our schedule right now. Would be an interesting one though. Jerry
Glad I found this channel sure it will help me a lot when I do my 01 Sierra.
We hope it helps. What are you going to be doing to the Sierra? Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience plan is bore the 5.3 to a 5.7 and full rebuild with Camaro heads with new summit pistons and rods with a chopacabra cam unless you guys have some ideas that go better together
Everything that we do for customers is all stock. We recently had a truck in with Truck Norris cam in it that we had to have tuned. It ended up running really nice. I don't have the time or equipment to tune so for the most part we stay away from changing anything that wouldn't be a stock tune. Let us know how it goes. Always curious to see how those combinations turn out. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
New Subscriber! Can’t wait to do a LS swap on my Dads (original owner) ‘76 Stepside
Thanks for subscribing! That sounds like an awesome project! You're definitely going to love it! 😁
You should do a video on hooking up your fuel system,and if your running a 4l60,I'm swaping 5.3 into 80 monte with 4l60e n 5.3 stock harness ecu
Hi Dustin! We appreciate you watching! Here's a link to a playlist for fuel system info. th-cam.com/play/PL3Xf8yWArPC4TUjRqrBmqWNkxiJSnf84p.html
And here's a link to a video to power up the 4L60E. th-cam.com/video/FDF76UCmB4c/w-d-xo.html Thanks for tuning in!
Wow, like it. Serious work with little funny comments. Great job.! .
We try to keep it fun! 😁 Thanks for watching!
Excellent video, thank you so much for sharing. It was super informative. I really appreciate it.
Thanks so much! Glad to hear it was helpful. We appreciate you tuning in!
Cool great job I have a 1977 GMC SIERRA CLASSIC C15 pickup and I have a 1985 GMC SIERRA CLASSIC C15 SUBURBAN I'm restoring now it's painted now I was thinking about doing a LS swap.
Thanks Ray! You definitely won't regret it after the first test drive! 😁
@UglyTruckExperience Thank you for the reply question can the 700R4 work with the LS?
It can, but the cable on the 700r4 makes it very difficult. You will be much happier to go with the 4l60e. Jerry
I'm planning on a swap on my 1997 silverado with a 2004 6.0 this helped alot thanks
My first truck was a 97 Silverado SWB step side 4x4! I haven't talked Jerry into swapping one yet, but it sounds like fun! Thanks for watching! --Emily
Thanks for your great videos. I have a 2002 fuse block. On the C1 connector, I'm using A9 pink for Run/Start. With this year, do you still use the A3 yellow? On Lt1swap for 2002 they say to use B11-Red. Only that makes no sense to me because I only need to quickly engage starter. At Lt1swap they go on to say that B11-Red feeds 12v battery + to ignition switch hot at all times. Are C1 connectors on 2002 and 03 and up color wired the same? I have a 85 wagoneer and my ignition switch is already feed from what used to be the Alternator and is battery hot now (with fuse links) like you showed us how to make. /again thanks for all you do to help us.
The 2002 wiring is different. Your trucks starter wire would go to f11 on connector #2. It is either purple with white tracer or might be yellow. A9 on C1 is correct for key on run power. B11 would work fine for supplying power to your interior fuse box as long as it is protected with link or a fuse which it sounds like you have done. We need to do a video on the 2002 and earlier one of these days. They are quite a bit different and it trips people up pretty often. Let us know how it goes. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
Jerry and Emily, thanks again for taking the time to answer our questions. On the 2002 fuse block, my F11 is a yellow wire, circuit 1737 described as Neutral Safty Switch Park/Neutral Signal. The F10 is purple with a white tracer described as Starter Relay Coil Supply. I just wanted to check with you to see if I should still use F11 yellow for my crank wire or F10. Thanks again, Randy @@UglyTruckExperience
@@nanningying did you ever get clarification on this I have the same fuse block and now I’m confused thinking that it’s just the diff fuses and no big deal … of course assuming gets me all the time please help thanks
What size of fusable link should be used for wire going to interior power ? Thanks for the great videos !
Hello Brendan. The general rule would be to use a fusible link with a gauge that is four sizes smaller than the gauge of wire you are protecting. So If you have a 12 awg wire going to fuse box, you would use a 16 gauge fusible link. If you are using the OEM fuse box, you could use the fuse that protects lug number 2 eliminating the need for the link. Thanks. Jerry
Makes wiring look fun, good content .
Thanks Jeremy. I think wiring is fun and am glad the video comes across that way. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
I’m doing an LS swap in a FSJ. Your videos are the best. I have a issue that maybe you can help with. The 5.3 is coupled to a th400 what do I do with the park neutral switch? I really want to incorporate the p/n switch in the steering column of the Jeep. Any advise you have would be appreciated
Hello David. Give me some more details about your jeep. Year and any other info that would help. Donor motor and what you are using for a harness, etc. Will take a look at a wiring diagram and see what you are working with. Thanks. Jerry
Excellent information, thanks for sharing this with us...!!! Where are you located?
Thanks for watching! We're in SW Missouri. 👍
What size fuseable link should be used to not double them up? Love the video's but wish there were more on the 70. Swapping a 68'.
You would use a fusible link that is 4 wire gauge smaller than the wire you are trying to protect. For example. If your wire was 12 gauge wire you would use a 16 gauge fusible link to protect that circuit. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
When you guys use a factory 2005 truck engine harness do you take it apart and de pin and remove the the wires that don't get used or do you just use it as is? Example if you were doing a swap and using a non electric transmission like a 400 turbo would you de pin and eliminate the transmission wires from the harness?
Hey David. I have looked at the number of wires going to that ECM that we don't use and really didn't see the sense in removing them. Even if I wasn't using the electronic transmission I think I would keep them just in case I wanted to go with a electronic version in the future. I do cut the not needed wires off, heat shrink them and shove them back in the harness just for looks. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily
I really enjoy your show. I would like to know where are y’all located?
Thanks Tonie! We're just outside of Springfield, MO. Thanks for watching! Emily and Jerry
I enjoyed this video it was very informative. What are you using for a scan tool. I need to get one for my swap projects.
Glad you liked it! We use AllData for our shop program, so we use their scan tool. We pay a monthly fee, but it gives us all the info and wiring diagrams we need. We appreciate you watching!
Same way I sell my swaps on a runstand. Only thing I didn't see was c1 connector b11. Which is needs a constant 12v supply. For the ecu
On this application pin b11 in connector 1 is the power supply for a power sun roof. Thanks for watching.
Do you have a video of hooking up the a/c and cruise control systems?
Yep, here you go! Thanks for watching!
CRUISE CONTROL: th-cam.com/video/UtX16_j0JlQ/w-d-xo.html
A/C WIRING: th-cam.com/video/tv1LtLT9zmM/w-d-xo.html
@@UglyTruckExperience Thank you!
Wow, you guys made that look easy.
Thanks Rich, we appreciate you watching. Keep us posted on the 81.
I love your videos, very easy to comprehend. Im interested in knowing what type or brand of scan tool your using. Im looking into buying one. Please let me know. Thanks.
We appreciate you watching! We use AllData for our shop program, so we use their bluetooth scanner and a tablet. It gives us all the wiring diagrams and info we need, but we do pay a monthly fee.
I watched your video and I’m in I’m subscribed great information
Thanks for subscribing!
Super simple is right! Lots of other simple ls swap vids go way past simple. Working on my first ls swap and wanted to know who you use to program the ecu and what all you have done to it? I’m running an 02 5.3, tbw with a 4l60e trans and want to keep ac also. Thanks for the advice. Def subscribed. Already gone through obd port, trans lock up and more.
Thanks so much for your comment! We use lt1swap.com/programming.htm for our programming. He has a ton of great LS swap info on his site, definitely worth checking out. On this truck we deleted VATS, rear O2 sensors, and had him program it for the gear ratio. Other than that, it is a stock tune.
Here's a whole playlist of LS swap videos that might help you out! We really appreciate you watching! th-cam.com/play/PL3Xf8yWArPC5Zw2UPwTvSvFt8CjEBSFiO.html
@@UglyTruckExperience that’s who I was planning on using. Thanks for the advice and content.
What you do bout foot pedal
Thanks you are welcome
Good infor. You broke it down real eazy & simple 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽❤️ i burn my whole cab harness & and motor harness i order off ebay and could have just did it that way 💪🏼💪🏼💯
Thanks for watching!
I have a 79 square body. Want to do a swap. Question: do they make adapters if I wanna run a turbo 400 or 700 R4? Also what video show the engine swap. Great video 👍thanks
They do make adapters for bolting up the torque converter. The bell housings are already compatible, no adapter required. The 700r4 is exactly the same as the 4l60e so you may be better off with no adapter and just the electronic 4l60e. The 700r4 requires a throttle vacuum cable that moves with the accelerator cable which can be a problem on a swap especially if it is fly by wire.
Here's a link to the engine and transmission install on this 78 Bonanza. We appreciate you watching! th-cam.com/video/XanlbyNiLzE/w-d-xo.html
I’ve enjoyed watching your videos. Super informative. I’m about to start a LS swap in a 78 c10. Who do you guys use to program your PCMs? Not many options locally to get mine done.
We appreciate you watching! We have two 86 C10's lined up for LS swaps, so if there's anything you'd like to see, let us know! We use LT1swap.com for our programming. He has a ton of info on his website, and is always quick to get them back to us. 👍
I enjoy your guys content also the info on were to send the computer I have a few other questions about this what fuel pump do you use and also how about the 02 sensors and knock sensors
New subscriber and already hooked!! Very useful for my 74 c10 ls swap..
Welcome aboard! 👋
Love the videos, I'm taking out 5.3 vortex from donor an putting in a '40 ford,do I need to delete anything on computer for it to run
Hi Brian! Sounds like a great project. Yes, you will need to have the security system (VATS) turned off on your computer. Here's a video that might be helpful. th-cam.com/video/otPF2laSGwc/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching! Emily and Jerry
Great video as always yall! Just curious if you've ever had an issue with the sending units not reading correctly with the fuel pump on? I go over it a little on my latest video on the 86 C10 I'm swapping. I used a Delphi sending unit for an 87 in the 87 tank with an AEM pump (Holley subsidiary). Anyway I was just wondering if you've had that problem before.
Have not had that issue but sounds like it would have to be a grounding issue. What does the gauge do with the pump on? Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Hey Jerry, it was a ground issue. The gauge would go to full when the pump was running. If the ignition was in the on position without the pump on, it would read accurately.
Awesome. Glad you found the problem. I think that's why I like wiring so much, because of the weird things that happen.
@@UglyTruckExperience thank you! I saw in one of your videos you’re planning on using the donor fuse/relay box to power the headlights etc, looking forward to that! I’m going to attempt to use it for the electric fans and other items on my next swap. Thanks for all the great content. You guys are awesome!
I just tried starting my LS swapped S10 today using this wiring method and I think I might be using the wrong fuse box I have power in places that I should not have power when the key is off
Does your fuse box have large rectangular fuses or square fuses? Jerry
Hi great video! Will work with a 70 c-10 or is the wiring different?
A 70 c10 would have had a resistor wire going to the ignition coil that would need to be changed. Other than that the wiring would be the same for what is required to start up the LS.
16:54 the greatest part of this video is when the camera lady sats, “you said, ‘butt’ “. Lol😅
😆😆 Glad someone appreciates my jokes! Thanks for tuning in! --Emily
That was one of my my question how does the power to the cab get there , thanks ....
Yep, that's a pretty important wire if you want to use the key to start it! 😁 Thanks for watching!
First of all my wife wants to no
What your dogs name is ,
And 2nd thing is your cold air intake you put on the LS and 78 pickup is that a custom one or what did you order
And tell your honey he has inspired me on my lemon drop square body truck picked up 03 suburban 5.3 to put in it
Thank you and your honey for showing the affordable way of LS swapping
Her name is Ripley and she is a mess. 😆 Here's a link to the intake kit we ordered, but it took quite a bit of engineering to get it just right. Had to make some brackets to mount it, and we recycled the flexible rubber duct from an original LS intake tube. But the finished product turned out great and the customer loved it! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGJ9JCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's awesome to hear you decided to make the swap! Keep us posted!
@@UglyTruckExperience your the best and thank you for the quick response
Awesome job !!explaining everything best video I ever seen
Thank you! We appreciate you watching!
Would all these steps be the same for a originally 3.6 v6 2012 Camaro to swap a 4.8/5.3 into it and get it going? It came with a 6 speed so I’ll probably bolt it to that. I’ve never done a motor swap but I’ve done a few transmissions. I’m super nervous but this video helped
The 2012 twelve camaro was available with a V8 and and also the v6 which had around 300 horsepower. It will be a totally different monster to put a V8 in. Technically it should be easier when it comes to the wiring. If you give it a shot, please let us know. Thanks. Jerry and Emily
Great video what throttle air intake pipe you used?
Thanks for watching! Here's a link to the intake kit we ordered, but it took quite a bit of engineering to get it just right. Had to make some brackets to mount it, and we recycled the flexible rubber duct from an original LS intake tube. But the finished product turned out great and the customer loved it! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGJ9JCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks
Those two fusible links you put on Stud 2 are gonna last forever, because they're protected by that 30A Stud 2 fuse. 😁
Nice catch Rickn8or. They we're totally unnecessary. I see people running those red wires to the lug on the firewall with no protection, so I was just trying to drive it home with protecting the circuit. Thanks. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience, I wouldn't have noticed it myself, but I've been chasing out every fuse in the fuse block to find power for building a fan control relay like you did, only in my '03 Suburban.
FYI, the red wire on Stud 1 goes to the power pin on the 7-way trailer lights connector, but has no power because of the red plastic "B+" block prevents putting a fuse there until you're ready.
The red wire on Stud 2 goes to an area near the Instrument Panel Relay and Circuit Breaker Panel to the left of the steering column, to join several others for a Trailer Brake Controller installation. Yes, GM left a live wire floating around under the dash all these years.
Chasing wiring diagrams for days to find a fuse that I could convert to provide coil power to Relay #3, I finally looked at the fuse block itself and realized there were three empty locations to put in fuse wiring. (Sloped shoulders and flat foreheads...)
I also wired mine this way. Didn’t get mine mounted as well as you… may be doing the same soon.
Thanks Ya’ll!
We appreciate you watching, Rob! Here's a link to a video on how we mount these OEM fuse boxes! th-cam.com/video/MWwtB0nbPwY/w-d-xo.html
I’ve got all of your videos bookmarked! Both of these are keepers!!!
If you can figure out how to Mount the AC compressor in the stock location without butchering the frame, I’d love to see what you can come up with.
I’m always waiting for your next video. I love how y’all explain everything!
Keep ‘em coming!!!
Thanks Rob! It's funny you should mention that! No spoilers, but don't go cutting that frame too soon! 😉😉
I have a harness out of a 2000 Silverado, On the white fuse block you said we use for starter was yellow (A3) but mine in A3 is 2 black wires.
Hello Mike, A 2000 is a hole different fuse box. The wire that you will need to supply a voltage to the starter relay is F11 in connector number 2 which I believe is black. Wire will be purple and white, or could be yellow.
Thanks. I just checked it and the wire in F11 is light blue. Now I’m really stumped. 😂
F11 on what connector
@@UglyTruckExperience my bad. Wrong connector but black connector doesn’t have a wire In F11
Is the wire in D11 Purple?
Very useful info! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Sam. We have a bunch more on the way. Thanks. Jerry
At 16:32 you said “used to go to the starter “ in regards to the purple wire. where dose it go now?
It will go to A3 in Connector 1. It should be a bigger yellow wire. If you back it up just a bit to 16:16 he explains it a little more. Thanks for tuning in! --Emily
@@UglyTruckExperiencemy A3 is 2 black thin wires should i connect to those? My donor is a 2002 DBW Tahoe
That's what mine is like also. Did you ever figure out if the 2 black wires worked @jesusrosales6864
very helpful ,how did you mount the accel pedal and do you have to tune engine?
Thanks for watching! We're still working on an accel pedal video. We had the PCM programmed for the swap, but as far as tuning the engine, no. The PCM controls everything, so all we did was fire it up and confirm that everything looked good on the scan tool. 👍
I just hit the subscription button bud.really good info
That's awesome! Thank you! 👍
What's the price on something like ls swap?
Should I save the green C4 connector for any future things? Or will I never need it
The green connector goes to your headlamps, horn and crash sensors. If you don't think you will ever run the headlights off that oem box, go ahead and chuck it. I personally have never thrown anything car related away but that is just one of my problems. Thanks Waylon.
@@UglyTruckExperience haha same. I will more than likely keep the connector itself and the short pieces of wiring around
If you put yellow wire to the purple that went to solenoid . What tire did you use for starter
If you are using the original donor harness like we are in this video. The purple wire that goes to Yellow in the fuse box is used to fire up the Starter relay that sends power to your starter solenoid through the donor harness. Jerry
As you mentioned about the main hot power wire (that originally came from the battery / starter) and now leads from the pcm / fuse box.
Do I still need the “midi fuse” on the firewall for anything else?
If you are using the lug on the donor fuse box to power up the interior fuse box of the truck, you would not need another fuse. I know in this video I also used fusible link on that circuit. It was not necessary. I just don't want people out there creating circuits that are not protected by some form of fuse. You can run as many fuses you like on a circuit with no problems. But making a circuit with no protection can be a real problem. Thanks. Jerry
Thank you for what you do! All of your videos are by far the best explanations I’ve found. I think I’ve watched this one 10 times already.
Definitely one of my faves!
Thanks William. We appreciate it. Jerry and Emily
Great video well explain for the average person
Thank you Tony. We appreciate you watching..
Was the fusible link 16 AWG? Trying to decide which to get and not 100% sure how I’d determine that answer 🤦🏽♂️
Thanks in advance!
If you are talking the fusible link from alternator to battery, It is 8 awg. Part number STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS A118L. For other circuits, As and example. If you were going to a 12 awg wire you would add 4 to it and use 16 awg fuse link. Just add 4 to whatever wire size you are protecting and that is your fuse link size. Hope that helps
@@UglyTruckExperience that’s extremely helpful! I was on step one where you guys added the two fusible links. I need to start with my harness and measure the wire thickness. Thanks!
If your running those power wires to a donor OEM fuse box to lug number 2 you can actually skip using the fusible links if that helps. Lug number 2 is protected by a Maxi fuse that sits right next to the lug. It doesn't hurt to have both though if you like. Keep us posted Thanks Jerry and Emily
@@UglyTruckExperience oh very helpful! I found a link at my local parts store I might try that and return it.
I’ve got to say, I watched all your LS swap videos at least 5 times each. From the wiring to the installation, the refresh of gaskets, and knock sensors. You guys have a VERY clear and easy way of explaining these steps to people who aren’t affluent in LS. Thank you for taking the time to document your knowledge and answer these questions from the community. 🙏🏽
Hey Jerry, can you give me an idea of what size fuseable link to use?
Hey Joey. What circuit are you protecting?
@@UglyTruckExperience the interior fuse box as you did in the video
I have a question i am doing a swap in a 1975 caprice and a 1971 Caprice... This info applies to the '75 as it ran a hei ignition.... But the'71 utilizes a coil ignition, any input on the wiring as far as coil ignition as opposed to hei... Any input from you guys is alway appreciated y'all are the LS gurus for sure, love your videos always learn something👍 and alway get inspiration
Hello Matthew. Your 71 will have a resistor wire that came from the firewall and went to the positive side of your ignition coil. You will want to replace that wire with a regular 14 awg wire that will now be your wire going to your ls wiring the same as that wire that went to your 75 HEI. It also had a wire that went from the starter solenoid up to the positive side of coil but that wire is not needed for a ls swap and you will just need to eliminate it. Good luck. Hope this helps. Jerry
What scan tool do you use
Thanks for watching! We use Alldata for our shop program, so we use their bluetooth scanner and tablet. It does most everything I need but we do pay a monthly subscription for it that includes all the shop info that I need also. There are a ton of options out there and the cost of them has come down a bunch which is great. Thanks for watching Jerry
After I do the same wiring should I be able to drive it right after I fire it up
Yes, as long as your transmission is wired up also. Check out this video. th-cam.com/video/FDF76UCmB4c/w-d-xo.html We appreciate you watching!
How did you delete security codes? And what fuel pump did you use if you don’t mind me asking?
I send the computer to a programmer that removes the security system, eliminates some of the emissions that I don't use and programs it for gear ratios and tire size for the vehicle it is going in. In this truck I used a Holley part # 12-156 fuel pump. Thanks
Subscribed for more crimps and solders :p Great Videos! Thank You :D
We knew there were some crimp and solder fans out there! 😁👍 Thanks for subscribing! --Emily and Jerry
Very good video...keep up the good work!
Thanks! And thanks for watching!
"Thanks for watching the video" oh we should start it 🤣🤣🤣
😂 We wouldn't leave you hanging like that!
Do you guys recall what you did with the brown wire that runs from the firewall bulkhead to the alternator? Im wiring up an almost identical swap (78 C10/ 04 Silverado donor) and see conflicting information on it.
You shouldn't have to do anything with that wire. I fold it over and throw some heat shrink over it. Doesn't have anything to do with the amp meter. Jerry
@ that’s what I was leaning towards. Thanks for the confirmation!
Question... why use a fusible like on constant power into the cab when the lug you are connecting it to is already protected with a 40 amp fuse?
Hello Bill. Your the first person to catch that. I see most of these done with the power leads tied to that lug on the firewall or another power source that is not protected. So I just try to stress the importance of protecting that circuit. In this case it doesn't hurt anything, but it is definitely overkill. Thanks. Jerry
Love this channel! U got me lookin for a powertrain from 04ish tahoe. I think they're lm7 . Putting it in my 1969 gmc. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Plz. Ty.🙏🏽 I'm trying to figure out the easiest way. What do I do with wiring I won't use like abs ect.? Should I use stock harness or a painless? What do I do about gauge cluster? Oem or Dakota digital? Connectivity? I'm overwhelmed . Tha KS again fellas.
Hello Chicanopatriot. We have a 1970 c10 that has a LM7 and a 4L60 transmission. Was a fun truck to swap and is great driving now. We prefer to work with the original harness. If removed from the donor properly, It will only have what is needed to run the engine, transmission, AC and cooling fans. All other items like ABS are a different harness and just not used. I like the original cluster but also like the digital dash. It is just a preference. Both are pretty simple to wire. When your looking for that donor, whatever year you end up with I would just try to stay with the Gen 3 and keep the stock camshaft. It will save you some headache. Thanks for watching and keep us posted. Jerry and Emily
On the white connector, you have a yellow wire that you connect to starter solenoid wire on original harness (purple). I do not have the yellow wire. Harness is off 02 2500hd with same 6.0 engine.
Ok give me a second.
The 2002 is a totally different monster. Your purple starter wire from the original trucks firewall will go to position F11 in connector number 2 in your donor fuse box. It will either be a purple wire with white tracer or could be a yellow wire. Hope that helps. Jerry
And do I just splice into the existing wire in the donor fuse box, or do I put the purple wire on firewall in place of that wire, removing the existing wire (purple wire with white tracer or yellow)
You can just spice your original purple from your truck to the wire that is going into position f11 on connector 2 and that will be your power that makes the starter relay work. What are you swapping a motor into?
Another question haha. Do you leave the transmission wiring or do you get rid of that?
Have you done this swap in a 73-79 ford f150?
We haven't, but that would be pretty sweet!