Just wanna say thanks man. My car had a cracked head and they where charging me 6k to fix it but i bought the parts and did it myself for 1600. Videos where perfect and my car started up first time.
When you use the wrench to rotate the holes to line up, do you know if this is possible without the entire engine open? I needed to replace that entire assembly but my bolt holes do not line up but I don’t feel like stripping it down that far. Thanks.
If I’m doing a simple exhaust cam chain tensioner swap. I will have to remove this as well correct? I don’t have much knowledge on this car. If so, would I have readjust it as well or is it be possible to create marking points and realign it?
What's the torque specs for the vvl cam? The 8 10mm screws on top of the cam tower I had a friend helping me tear a motor apart and I forgot to mention to him not to remove those screws but all he did was loosen them out. He did not remove the cap
I don't recall the torque specs being listed in the FSM for those bolts but they're the same size as the rest on the cam tower so I'd stick with that and you should be fine.
What did you do in the past when you cracked one of the wings on the VVEL sensor? Did you replace just the sensor? If so where did you source it? Or did you replace the VVEL module? I brake the wing on mine and thinking of just epoxying it.
Hey, great and detailed videos, really good job done so far. One question, are you sure you can pass vvel calibration procedure later on? According to manual vvel motor arm should be fixed with special jig (not sure why) and vvel shaft should be turned 5.5 degree prior bolts tightening. Looks like few guys had issues with calibration because they tightened it up incorrectly.
This guy showed his way of vvel shafts and motors adjustment th-cam.com/video/1w2wBKJYpSA/w-d-xo.html Just wondering what experience do you have with it.
I did everything without doing the 5.5 degrees, bolted the sensor, turned on the car then adjusted it by hand so the car idled fine. Took it for a drive, it stalled when idled after a drive. So I adjusted it again and the car been running perfectly fine for months now, didn't need to do calibration the way it's written in the manual.
@@BeeloKaouk main question what means perfectly fine... How do you know vvel works as it should, did you test car afterwards on dyno. Even after 50k km you could face consequences, for example out of spec valve clearance or even burned valves if valves timing or lifting is slightly incorrect. Maybe not, but I would be careful with these motors.
I'll visually confirm VVEL shaft position and voltage. If the sensor is put exactly where it was previously, it runs fine. I've done it the same way and always been within 100 mv, well within acceptable specifications. The only real thing to note is VVEL shaft clocked postion in relation to sensor position and voltage. That's literally it.
Hey man! was wondering if you could help me with a few DTC’s I have, I recently changed out my camshaft sprockets on my 2011 Infiniti m37s and since then my car will send its self into limp mode and DTC’s p0021, p0081, and p0075 The codes are for intake valve control circuit and camshaft position timing being over advanced. I’ve checked both solenoids and they are fine, camshaft position sensors are fine. Just need a few tips if you got any!
I'm very curious if you're accidentally off timing by one tooth on one of the sets of gears. That would definitely be something I'd look into. Maybe pull one of the cam gear covers and have a look while putting number 1 cylinder at TDC.
I got the car put back together but I have permanent codes for the p0021, P0081 but the car isn’t in limp mode anymore. But now I have p0300 (random misfires detected) and I checked my spark plugs which are brand new and those were fine so I checked coil packs and all checked out okay, I hooked my reader up while idling and I saw I had a negative short term fuel trim which was bank 1 at -3.1 and bank 2 at -1.6
After installing the vvel motors and sensors, is the car good to go? Or some type of adjustment need to be done? I need to replace vvel bank one on my g37 and not sure if it’s just replacing or needs mora than that
Hey I have a question, my car is throwing a P1090, I bought a new vvel actuator assembly with sensor, for the bank 1 (passenger side). I was wondering if I am able to just remove the old assembly and swap in a new assembly without any issues or taking off the valve cover to adjust anything. Any help would be great. Thanks
Hey I have questions my car is throwing a p1092 vvel bank 2 code and is putting my car in limp mode and doesn’t let me rev past 1rmp, I changed vvel control shaft position sensor bank2 and swapped out vvel control module and nothing yet ,any help would be greatly appreciated,thanks .
As far as I know, you cannot just swap in another VVEL sensor and expect it to work. Did you check before and after voltages compared to actual VVEL position in degrees? If you just swapped in parts to guess you probably did more harm than good at this point.
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Just wanna say thanks man. My car had a cracked head and they where charging me 6k to fix it but i bought the parts and did it myself for 1600. Videos where perfect and my car started up first time.
This is what I love to hear my man! Congrats!!
When checking the vvel motors do the motors rotate freely? Or do they have resistance, not sure if my motors are froze up
When you use the wrench to rotate the holes to line up, do you know if this is possible without the entire engine open? I needed to replace that entire assembly but my bolt holes do not line up but I don’t feel like stripping it down that far. Thanks.
Can you make a video on what parts you have on your built g37 and maybe add some links?
I'll consider doing that very soon. I have another engine build that's almost identical to mine in the G, so we'll see soon! Thanks for the idea!
If I’m doing a simple exhaust cam chain tensioner swap. I will have to remove this as well correct? I don’t have much knowledge on this car. If so, would I have readjust it as well or is it be possible to create marking points and realign it?
Hey what kind of drag wheels and tires you have in the black g37 … any modifications to make them fit ?
What's the torque specs for the vvl cam? The 8 10mm screws on top of the cam tower I had a friend helping me tear a motor apart and I forgot to mention to him not to remove those screws but all he did was loosen them out. He did not remove the cap
I don't recall the torque specs being listed in the FSM for those bolts but they're the same size as the rest on the cam tower so I'd stick with that and you should be fine.
Bro know anything about code p1089 2010 g37??
What did you do in the past when you cracked one of the wings on the VVEL sensor? Did you replace just the sensor? If so where did you source it? Or did you replace the VVEL module? I brake the wing on mine and thinking of just epoxying it.
I used a different set of heads with the sensors that came with them. I've yet to try swapping sensors yet.
Hey, great and detailed videos, really good job done so far. One question, are you sure you can pass vvel calibration procedure later on? According to manual vvel motor arm should be fixed with special jig (not sure why) and vvel shaft should be turned 5.5 degree prior bolts tightening. Looks like few guys had issues with calibration because they tightened it up incorrectly.
This guy showed his way of vvel shafts and motors adjustment th-cam.com/video/1w2wBKJYpSA/w-d-xo.html
Just wondering what experience do you have with it.
I did everything without doing the 5.5 degrees, bolted the sensor, turned on the car then adjusted it by hand so the car idled fine.
Took it for a drive, it stalled when idled after a drive. So I adjusted it again and the car been running perfectly fine for months now, didn't need to do calibration the way it's written in the manual.
@@BeeloKaouk main question what means perfectly fine... How do you know vvel works as it should, did you test car afterwards on dyno. Even after 50k km you could face consequences, for example out of spec valve clearance or even burned valves if valves timing or lifting is slightly incorrect. Maybe not, but I would be careful with these motors.
@@tarassymonik7603 yea you're right in the long run it might cause damage.
Prolly best to calibrate it properly eventually
I'll visually confirm VVEL shaft position and voltage. If the sensor is put exactly where it was previously, it runs fine. I've done it the same way and always been within 100 mv, well within acceptable specifications. The only real thing to note is VVEL shaft clocked postion in relation to sensor position and voltage. That's literally it.
Hola cuando montas los 2 motores del vvel como debe estar el tiempo
Hey man! was wondering if you could help me with a few DTC’s I have, I recently changed out my camshaft sprockets on my 2011 Infiniti m37s and since then my car will send its self into limp mode and DTC’s p0021, p0081, and p0075 The codes are for intake valve control circuit and camshaft position timing being over advanced. I’ve checked both solenoids and they are fine, camshaft position sensors are fine. Just need a few tips if you got any!
I'm very curious if you're accidentally off timing by one tooth on one of the sets of gears. That would definitely be something I'd look into. Maybe pull one of the cam gear covers and have a look while putting number 1 cylinder at TDC.
I got the car put back together but I have permanent codes for the p0021, P0081 but the car isn’t in limp mode anymore. But now I have p0300 (random misfires detected) and I checked my spark plugs which are brand new and those were fine so I checked coil packs and all checked out okay, I hooked my reader up while idling and I saw I had a negative short term fuel trim which was bank 1 at -3.1 and bank 2 at -1.6
After installing the vvel motors and sensors, is the car good to go? Or some type of adjustment need to be done? I need to replace vvel bank one on my g37 and not sure if it’s just replacing or needs mora than that
I'll link a great video on the subject.
th-cam.com/video/BejC0C3xCbk/w-d-xo.html
Hey I have a question, my car is throwing a P1090, I bought a new vvel actuator assembly with sensor, for the bank 1 (passenger side). I was wondering if I am able to just remove the old assembly and swap in a new assembly without any issues or taking off the valve cover to adjust anything. Any help would be great. Thanks
You have to remove the valve cover to put the camshaft position in the most retard position in order to install it. I'll link a great video on this.
th-cam.com/video/BejC0C3xCbk/w-d-xo.html
Hey I have questions my car is throwing a p1092 vvel bank 2 code and is putting my car in limp mode and doesn’t let me rev past 1rmp, I changed vvel control shaft position sensor bank2 and swapped out vvel control module and nothing yet ,any help would be greatly appreciated,thanks .
As far as I know, you cannot just swap in another VVEL sensor and expect it to work. Did you check before and after voltages compared to actual VVEL position in degrees? If you just swapped in parts to guess you probably did more harm than good at this point.
you’re not supposed to torque anything down when the RTV is still fresh. Read your labels guys.
There are a few things that I do that isn't standard practice but it works.
Need your help so damn much I’m getting code p1092 on a fresh swap
That appears to be fuel system related per the manual.
@@garagefanatic7830 will that cause the car to enter limp mode
@@Litlife.vq79 Absolutely could.