man over the years you have been a wealth of knowledge. ive been building my wj off and on for a few years now, and even on tasks that ive done before such as this one I always check out your channel because you cover everything so specifically. thanks for the work and effort you put into your channel just know there is a multitude of WJ owners that appreciate you!
Thank you, Mark I really appreciate that. I needed to hear that especially after some crap I got from my last video, accusing me of using clicked bait.
@@martinbuilt have you thought about doing the pressure mod on the back vari lok? Essentially pulling it out, pulling side cover off and locking the ball seat under the reed. It’ll still drive smooth but locks up more like a Detroit truetrac. It’ll still bleed off and behave like an open. Might be fun, especially in your street performance build.
I saw that too, but 30 ft-lb on those little bolts seems excessive. It's only a cover plate, and the housing is aluminum. I'm doing mine right now, and I'll start with 15, then maybe try 20 and see how it goes. When I broke loose the bolts, it didn't take much torque. UPDATE: Torqued it to 30 ft-lb no problem.
I'm getting new tires this week, and will change my diff and transfer case fluids. I am getting that chatter in the rear when I turn. Again, Martin, you are the GURU
Thanks Martin! I just noticed by chance that the entire inside rear wheel on my WJ GR was wet. Axle seals already replaced, but diff was DRY! I've got more work to do, but will eventually do what you did in this video!
I came up with an easy way to drain and fill the axle without even taking the cover off, or if you are taking it off it makes it MUCH easier getting the fluid in and out. I use an AC vacuum pump to extract it and air pressure to fill it. Picked up a 64 oz Ball Wide Mouth Mason jar with lid and band and two 3/8" barbed bulkhead pass through fittings and installed the fittings in the lid. Now to extract the fluid I put a hose on one fitting that will go into the axle housing through the fill hole, I cut an angle on the end going into the axle. On the other end of the same barb put a piece of hose that reaches the bottom of the jar, it will be inside the jar. On the other fitting run a hose to a vacuum source, I use a HF AC vacuum pump. The vacuum created in the jar will pull the fluid right out of the housing, quite quickly also. You will have to modulate the vacuum power, I do by squeezing the hose. To put fluid back in it is the same setup with the exception of pressurized air instead of vacuum. Fill the jar with the fluid you want in the housing and apply air to the same hose the vacuum was applied to. Again be careful, it doesn't take much pressure to do the job, a couple pounds will do it. The pressure applied to the inside of the jar pushes the fluid up the other hose and into the housing, again very quickly. I made a custom box to fit the jar in to avoid breakage of the glass. This method is so easy it almost makes a fluid change fun. A trick I learned working marinas, extraction was the only way to change engine oil on large boats with inboard V-8's.
Hey im new to the channel but i appreciate videos like this. Im getting into the world of cars and hope to be a mechanic one day. as such part of it is keeping my car running and right now thats servicing my leaky front diff. very informative, very helpful.
Great video!! I changed out the rear diff fluid on a 2003 Grand Cherokee Laredo and there were two tags: the gear ratio tag on the driver's side and the gear oil weight tag on the passenger. Thanks again for the great vid.
I wanted to post up that I had my fluid done at a shop and they thought it was ok with the oil having the lsd additive in there. Instantly started making noise. Tried adding some OTC additive and it didn't like it still. I bought the mopar additive to redo the service myself. I noticed it was more viscous than the otc brand from the auto parts store.
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful thank you for watching. I think it's the additive that's really important if you wanted to you could probably siphon off 4 oz of fluid and replace it with the additive.
Super great video!!! I just bought a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited from my brother. Heaven knows he probably never changed the Differential. Also, before your video I thought it had a drain and fill plug. This is good stuff! Thanks again!
Thank you glad you liked it and found it helpful. Congratulations on purchasing the JGC. Yeah most vehicles probably go through their entire life and never have the differential fluid replaced.
Hey, great to see you again... amazed you change the diff fluid and your hands don't get messy... Jurota pump, is really gerotor, which you know is the star-shaped impeller in the volute having one (or more) points that the rotor. Now, Valvoline has the Valvoline FlexFill 75W140 Full Synthetic Gear Oil, which is in a pouch, very, very easy to use. I was hoping you, personally, had acted as my guinea pig, to test the Valvoline synthetic. Have any info in actual usage? Valvoline claims already has the FM added. PS: I now have a new 2004 with PowerTech 4.7, only 144k miles, and in the process of de-punking it. New shocks, 1" sway bar on rear, fluids, headlamps, fix the bummed out rear brake lamp bulb holder, right PDM not responding to the fob, nor the lock switch (unlock motion works??), boom box power bus to gone boom amp, replace rear headrests, new rear bumper cover, put a Walker Quietflow with actual tail pipe (I see your tailpipe is shortened to in front of the axle tube), instead of the simple resonator someone had attached aft the cats, and... the auto-dimming rear mirror won't power on... Thankfully, have the FSM 3-vol set and diagnostic manuals, PLUS, I have my OWN DRBIII! keith20mm on JeepForum
I have a 12 volt suction pump that I use to draw the old oil out of my boat engine at the end of each season. For my Grand Cherokee and other axles that I change oil in, it comes in really handy -- pop out the plug, insert the 3/16" diameter hose and let it suck all the oil out. Takes less than 5 minutes. Use any empty gallon container and kindly recycle. Then, use the pump in reverse to fill the housing with new oil. No mess, no fuss, no other tools except a screwdriver to pop the plug out. 15 minutes total time and nary a spot of grease on the hands. I actually don't even have to jack the vehicle up or mess with the anti-sway bar. And the pump works great for automatic transmissions as well. Just make sure the suction hose is longer than the dipstick, suck out all you can and fill with the same amount of new fluid. Top up if necessary.
So two quarts and 4oz of additive for the rear and two quarts and 2.5oz for the front. Having a hard time finding exactly how much diff oil to put in the front
From Kevin knew you in west palm @ironhorse had my a.c. system checked checking up on this big condenser thinking your custom modification will work see ya at the spheer
Yes, this can tell you the condition of the rear axle and if there are any problems. This will also keep the metal shavings from damaging bearing and gears.
very informative video on changing the differential gear oil, one question, i am not sure when the last time was I changed the gear oil, but is it ok to just add oil rather than replacing it?
If it is a true limited slip like the one I described in the video I would recommend changing the fluid and adding the additive. If it is a conventional open differential I guess you can get away with just adding, I assume it is leaking a little bit if you need to add.
I watched your video, then looked at my rear end. I was thinking how do you have such great access to your cover!? Did you take the tank or tank protection off? Then I watch it again. You must have put your jack stands on the frame so that the axle would hang down creating more access to the diff cover bolts! Thanks for the great vid!! Question: Which WJ do you think is the best one? 2008? Trim? Runner up? You could do a video on this!!
Yes placing jack stands on the frame and letting the rear axle hang lower will definitely help but I believe I did the gas tank tuck prior to doing this video which raised the fuel tank 4 inches. Well I may be a little biased but the 04 WJ is definitely my favorite in the limited edition I only wish it had the 08 or newer 4.7 for the added horsepower. I really feel that the 99 through '04 Jeep Grand Cherokee is one of the best body styles especially compared to the WK that came after. Thank you for watching.
Should i be concerned if both axels seem to have lil bit of diff fluid on the bottom. Just bought a wj. Guy was good at maintaining so not sure if he just serviced them and fluid was left or they are sweating a lil bit.
Martin you are the man! Thanks for all your videos you have helped me out big time. I have a question on the front differential, do I need the additive in front if I need it in rear differential. I have AWD and thanks for your time.
Thank you Mike I appreciate that. Yeah if you have the Vari lok in the rear, you'll definitely haven't it in the front as well, and you only need 2 and a 1/2 ounces of the friction modifier for the front differential. Thank you for watching 👀
Hi I’m new in your channel I liked your video I have a grand Cherokee 2004 and my 4x4 it’s hard to change what type of oil or other liquid go to make it smooth? Thank you very much
Nice and informative! Thanks for doing this! I’m looking to possibly doing this myself. Along with your transfer case video on my 99 JGC 4.7 limited. What’s the brake cleaner used? It opens to multiple on your link description. Thanks
I found out that if you have the factory tow package it comes with a dana 44 with a 3:73 ratio with limited slip. My 01 2wd with a 4.7 has the the tow package and has this axle.
Thanks for saving me a bunch of time. Martin! Every time I watch one of your videos I want to go to my garage and caress some tools. Jacked to do some mods this weekend!
Hi Martin. Great video but I have a question. Both Valvoline and Royal Purple 75W140 synthetic gear oil claim to have a friction modifier. I used the Royal Purple on my last gear oil change for my '99 WJ with the Dana M44 limited slip differential, but after about 5000 miles I'm hearing the groan in some turns. Although they claim to have a friction modifier, do you recommend the full 4 ounces of the MOPAR modifier be added. I noticed you did when you used Valvoline; just wondered if you recommend 4 ounces with the Royal Purple too. Thanks.
Yes I recommend a full 4 oz of the Mopar friction modifier. The Dana 44 in a Jeep Grand Cherokee is not a typical limited slip and requires the special friction modifier.
Thank you Levon Helm! Lol sorry I had to. You remind me of the great Levon. Anyway, I'm going to give this a go on my 02 Sunday. Man I sure hope it's as easy as you made it look!
I've been called Harrison Ford and Bob Ross, probably because of the way I talk. And now Levon. I had to check out a video of his where he was interviewed with david letterman. The only thing that may give you a little trouble. Is the fuel tank being in the way I did a gas tank tuck where I raised the fuel tank 4 inches. Thank you for watching.
@martinbuilt Bob Ross? Lol I don't know what he sounds like but you need a big Garfunkel hairdo to be that guy. Here's kinda the age of Levon I was going off of. th-cam.com/video/0yuWwdQxw68/w-d-xo.htmlsi=v1jqwP-9wIsswHnN Anyway, I looked at mine and you're right about the tank. That's gonna be a real pain I think. I was going to do it at work yesterday because it's heated in there and they have a lot more tools than I have at home but I just didn't feel up to doin it. Maybe the weekend after Christmas I'll give it a shot. I'm not looking forward to it I can tell you that. Amazon no longer sells the mopar additive so I got 2 bottles from a jeep dealer. Man your WJ so much nicer than mine! You've done a lot to it. Mines pretty stock, 126k miles, airbag light is on, driver side hearted seat stopped working last winter, one of the front right speakers is blown, it runs on oil. I don't get that. It doesn't leak, doesn't smoke and it's always low on oil! I'm not much for working on cars but everything new and used these days you gotta be a millionaire to buy! Ridiculous. I'm hoping to keep it getting me to work and back for at least another year. It sure is great in the snow but doesn't look like we're gonna get any this year in Chicago which is fine with me! Thanks for the help. I'll be watching the video again as I'm cursing up a storm under my vehicle I'm sure.
Is the additive in the front end, too? My manual doesn't specify that, and I asked the dealer, and they said only the rear...any idea what's the right way going about it?
Hi, so basically you fill the differential housing till the oil reaches the filling hole.? Asking because just bought my first jeep wj 02 and decided to change the fluids. The seller was ok and all but better be on the safe side.
Hi Martin. Is it possible to install the Verilock rear end in the Quadra Trac 2, or does it only work with Quadradrive? I actually put the additive in both my diffs, not realizing it's ONLY for Verilock which I don't have. I spun my wheels, and they stayed moving opposite to each other, was sad. Thank you.
Hi, I've got an 04 with quadra drive and tried spinning the rear like you did with the cover off and it kept spinning the opposite direction after 30 seconds of turning and the gears wouldn't spin on the inside. Can it be because there's no fluid in it or do I have to put in drive for it to engage?
Generally does the rear axle only take 2 qrts? doing this soon and I wana make sure I buy enough gonna do rear & front so I bought 4qrts two for each diffs at $35each (mopar75/140) it’s a 07 jgc laredo v6 3.7 btw if I don’t have acetone what’s another alternative 70% rubbing alcohol works?
Do both front and rear diff take two quarts of gear lube ? and only rear takes 4oz of mopar additive and front takes 2oz additive ? But both get two quarts + additive
Martin, Quick question. The fluid you are using states " Contains Limited - Slip Additive" on the bottle. Is this fluid correct even with the addition of Mopar LSP Additive? Thanks!
Hey Martin, met you one time at the car wash. Question, what motor oil weight are you using? Just curious as I got an 03 Overland with a 4.7HO in the same climate as you. I've been reading a lot of threads regarding the proper weight for the lash adjusters. Thanks
Yeah, I remember you, nice to hear from you. I have been using 5w30 Full synthetic I have the non-HO engine but during the summer months, I think I should be using 10W30. The HO engines recommend 10W30.
Very good post...if you will spray around the diff cover with carb cleaner (or acetone) it will help greatly in getting that cover off. That way you can lessen risk of deep scratches in that aluminum case from case hardened steel screwdrivers, etc. Take my word for it, the vari-lok rear end needs the Mopar additive. Regards!!
@@martinbuilt I'll be honest with you, I don't have a WJ myself, but I like them and I'm doing a lot of research. Seems to me the QuadraDrive is the best choice. Surely the 4hi - N -4lo shifter is not as fancy as a SelecTrac one, but the system is very good with 50/50 in 4lo + Vari-Loks
Hey MartinBuilt, I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8 (VIN-N) standard output engine. What fluid do I use for the Rear, front differential and transfer case? I hear the Dana 44 requires (75W90/80W90 with normal use) and 90W140 with heavy towing but I'm not sure what my model has.
Glad to see you taking care of the black beast as always martin.i see ur really enjoying that tank tuk!!now more than ever no more soggy bottom blues!!hey just outa curosity did you think or look into that tramsmission dip stick slop i have that i mentioned! Before.yours may be tight but mines loose and protrudes out of tube.worried about dust and fluid loss!!!!snookie pa.
I have this same problem with the trans dipstick tube...no matter how you orient the thing it pops itself out of the tube about an inch. I used one of my wife's stretchy hair tie things (scuncci?) to hold it in. They last about 2-3 months before the engine bay environment destroys the rubber, but it keeps everything sealed up
@@stonewallcrippen2237 yeah its irritating at very least!!i was thinking of cutting top end somehow and shorting and weld back.or maybe one of those truckers screw rubber tops integrated, if you can find one small enough!!!hard to believe martin hasnt rebooted or designed something better for this one.dont think the scoonch is longterm fix but works temp.thAnks,snookie pa.
@@stonewallcrippen2237 yeah its irritating at very least!!i was thinking of cutting top end somehow and shorting and weld back.or maybe one of those truckers screw rubber tops integrated, if you can find one small enough!!!hard to believe martin hasnt rebooted or designed something better for this one.dont think the scoonch is longterm fix but works temp.thAnks,snookie pa.
Hi Martin, I have a 2000 grand Cherokee 4WD and checked the dealer with my 8 digit VIN. Did you do the same. I have thought I had the same need as you, but not according to my vin.
here is a great website where you can get a build sheet for your vehicle, it is case sensitive so enter the VIN using capital letters. Chrysler Build Sheet fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing
So if you don’t have a Vari-Loc then both wheels would turn the opposite direction? How do you know if you have a limited slip? Thinking about doing this to my car. Just want to make sure I get the right fluids.
Enter your vehicle VIN on this website, it will give you all the info like Vari-lok or open. Chrysler Build Sheet fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing Enter the VIN as it appears, case sensitive.
Hi Martin, I am removing my right rear axle shaft and putting new bearings on. When I reinstall that shaft do I have to put anything on it like oil or anything or just go ahead and put it in tighten everything down and fill it up with differential. Thank you and I really appreciate your channel I learn a lot from it as well and I've told some people about it on some of the forms.
Yes reinstall the bearing, you can put a small amount of oil on the bearing but it should get oiled as you refill the diff and put a good film of grease on the seal so that the axle doesn't damage it as you reinstall it.
@@martinbuilt thank you. I found someone to press it back on. I just need to get that outer ring out of the axle tube. Any suggestions? Then once pressed just slide shaft back in and tighten down and fill correct?
Thanks Martin. I have it apart right now and the carrier will not spin at all. My tires initially rotate in opposite directions until the diff engages and then it is just locked up and will not rotate. I found zero metal in the diff case or oil and there is only a super fine paste on the magnet. What should I do from this point? Is it possible that the fluid / friction modifier might be the only cause of this? Seems unlikely
I need your help. Own the Grand Cherokee 99. 8V 4.7l and 3-step conversion box we face the problem of the acceleration after 120 kilometers per hour crashes I have the front axle not this time and I have many times changed the axis please reply 🙏
If the rear is a Dana 44, what is the front? Does that mean they both are 44s, or is the front considered a different axle by itself? Mine is a 2004 Limited 4.7 non HO.
@martinbuilt OK, thanks. I just had my Jeep on a lift, I spun 1 rear wheel, they didn't spin in same direction. Even after several spins, they still moved opposite. That means I don't have Verilock, correct? I actually put the additive in the oil when I changed both 2 months ago.
How can you tell if your rear diff is a Dana44 or Dana44hd? I’m thinking about using a felpro gasket that’s available for the Dana44. It’s a 2004 grand Cherokee limited 4.7 ho with Quadra drive
@@martinbuilt thanks for the info, I’ll probably just use the paste then . Do you wait 24 hours to allow it to cure before driving? Also, aren’t the bolts supposed to be torqued to 30 pounds not 15?
I printed my equipment list. It says DANA 44/226MM REAR AXLE VARI-LOK PROGRESSIVE REAR AXLE. I don't have a trailer hitch. So per the manual you showed in the video I'm thinking I don't need the additive. Would you agree?
Nice work. Is that magnet on the cover OEM? My 9 1/4" on the Ram has a magnet in the housing. I used a Fel-Pro gasket on mine. It makes removal so much easier. No leaks after 3 years. Im almost due; with my usage I go 30k miles on diff fluid
You may need to disconnect the shocks at the axle and then raise the body and that should lower the axle to the point where you can get to them. My Jeep is actually lowered 1"
Hi Martin. Need your input. As we spoke, took jeep to shop this morning. Was told besides my seal and baring replaced, that the differental housing is bad and they asking $1200 to fix. Do you have a vedio on it? And any advice?? Picking up in 2 1/2 hours. Costing $310 for new seal and baring. Edit: so they said the axel housing around the race is worn and the race is spinning. $1200 complete axel housing and $400 for labor.
I did a fuel tank tuck that raised the the fuel tank 4 inches but, I don't think that should have made that much of a difference since I also have limit straps that keep the rear axle from dropping any farther down. Raise the Jeep at the frame that will give you the most clearness.
Thanks! I ended up jacking up the body to let the wheels and axle drop down. Gave me plenty of room. Waiting to fill it tomorrow as the gasket sealer says to wait 24 hours after torquing them down. Thanks for the awesome video!
Good morning sir I have a couple questions I Have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2004 with the 4.7 Engine I don't think that the transfer case lubricate has ever been changed and I think it has the wrong stuff in it but I've been operating with it like this for so long will it hurt me to change it in the long run
Martin, I have an '04 WJ, quadra trac II, 4.7 v8. The clutch discs in the rear differential are shot. The shop says that the parts I need are discontinued through Dana. Do you know of a suitable replacement? I know you need info like gear ratio, is it a Dana 35, or 44 axle. I just wanted to get your thoughts, as the shop says the only way to replace it is with a used axle, or ARB Locker.....I'm not saying I know more than them, since that is their job, but as many WJ's and jeeps in general that are still out there 17+ years old, there has to be aftermarket replacement parts.
Hey Martin, looks like tucking that tank gives you a nice amount of clearance. If I just disconnect the sway bar and link, have the WJ supported on the frame, can I lower the axle with a jack to get more clearance? Going to be installing the Aussielocker on my Dana 44A soon and I need to remove the carrier to remove the cross shaft. Thanks
yes the tuck helps some and sure looks better, just lift the Jeep at the frame and you should be okay. Why do you need to remove the carrier to get the cross pin out?
@@martinbuilt Going to tackle this today, I will report back with findings for people in the future if they decide to install on the Dana 44A any lunchbox locker. I am going into this assuming that there will be interference between the ring gear and the cross pin and that it will need to be removed in order to remove the spider gears.
@@martinbuilt So i pulled the cover, and you can easily remove the cross pin without needing to remove the carrier. I decided to remove the carrier to check the bearings and clean out the assembly, plus I didn't have much room to work on the ground. If I had a hydraulic lift (maybe one day haha), i would have just left it. So in recap, you can install a lunchbox locker in the Dana 44a WJ rears without the need to remove the carrier, cross pin does not interfer with the ring gear.
@@martinbuilt Brilliant, I will have to try that. I really just want to see if there is gear oil in the diff. I bought the JGC from my son's mother-in-law with 106k and I don't believe she abused it, but it lived in Pennsylvania so I'll have to look at the frame carefully. Thanks for the reply, take care.
9:33 ... Que the erotica musika . . . . I added a drain plug to my covers so I wouldn't have to remove them as often. Just drain and fill, and do a more thorough cleaning intermittently.
@@martinbuilt ... I used an O2 sensor bung and a ford drain plug w/a magnet on the end. I got everything as hot as I could with propane and brazed the bung over a pre-drilled hole. Great video, nevertheless.
Hi, Your doing great and you have nice car. I have a question. My 2002 grand Cherokee when turning sharp rubbing noise at back. Do you know what is the problem. Just let me know. Thanks
@@genrics.5466 what I meant to say is that the rear end fluid needs to be changed or maybe something wrong with the brakes, like the rotors and brake pads.
Jeep tell me I need normal 80/90 gear oil!!!! For a 2001 wj Quadra drive with Lsd!! No parts in the UK! Nightmare!!!! Can I use any 75/140 with any friction additive at 7%? Please help
Hi Martin, Great video! Do you think that it's too late to change my differential fluid? My 2000 jeep WJ is at 270 000 km. Im not sure if previous owners did it or not. Just curious if it's like transmissions where changing it now could have some negative effects or should I go ahead and change it?
@@martinbuilt Thank you for the quick response. I will be changing it. Also would you say I should do the same for the transfer case fluid as well ? Thanks in advance.
Went with some cheap ass WalMart "Super Tech" 80w-90 in my front diff (Selec-Trac) and the people in the forums went batshit, because I had the axle tag on the rear saying 75w-140, which I did actually use (Valvoline synthetic) in there. 🙃 I came to this conclusion by reading the same passage was was highlighted in this video, from m original owners' manual, even though it was a 2002 model. Should I have put 75w-140 in BOTH the front and rear diffs?
Just 1 question. I have the 2002 Overland. Should I add the 4oz. FM with the Valvoline SAE 75W-140 in the rear? The bottle says it contains FM already.
Good day. My cherokee wj does not have that effect that you do when you turn the wheel that they turn in the opposite direction and then they turn in the same direction I did that test and it does not only turn in the opposite direction. Could it be that my wj does not have the vari lok or is it damaged?
man over the years you have been a wealth of knowledge. ive been building my wj off and on for a few years now, and even on tasks that ive done before such as this one I always check out your channel because you cover everything so specifically. thanks for the work and effort you put into your channel just know there is a multitude of WJ owners that appreciate you!
Thank you, Mark I really appreciate that. I needed to hear that especially after some crap I got from my last video, accusing me of using clicked bait.
I will second that comment you are the only one i go to before i lay hands on my 2004 WJ
@@martinbuilt have you thought about doing the pressure mod on the back vari lok? Essentially pulling it out, pulling side cover off and locking the ball seat under the reed. It’ll still drive smooth but locks up more like a Detroit truetrac. It’ll still bleed off and behave like an open. Might be fun, especially in your street performance build.
@@martinbuilt 04' service manual specs 41Nm/30 ft lb for diff cover bolts, and reason to go only 15 ft lb, because of the Al?
04' service manual specs 41Nm/30 ft lb for diff cover bolts...
I saw that too, but 30 ft-lb on those little bolts seems excessive. It's only a cover plate, and the housing is aluminum. I'm doing mine right now, and I'll start with 15, then maybe try 20 and see how it goes. When I broke loose the bolts, it didn't take much torque. UPDATE: Torqued it to 30 ft-lb no problem.
I'm getting new tires this week, and will change my diff and transfer case fluids. I am getting that chatter in the rear when I turn. Again, Martin, you are the GURU
Dude you have the best videos. Extremely clear and concise.
Thank you I really appreciate that. I'm glad you like them and find them helpful.
It has been 6 years since I have done this to one of my WJs and I need to again, thanks for the refresher. Great Vid!
You are very welcome ☺
Excellent Video. Thank You for another great informative video
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Thanks Martin! I just noticed by chance that the entire inside rear wheel on my WJ GR was wet. Axle seals already replaced, but diff was DRY! I've got more work to do, but will eventually do what you did in this video!
I came up with an easy way to drain and fill the axle without even taking the cover off, or if you are taking it off it makes it MUCH easier getting the fluid in and out. I use an AC vacuum pump to extract it and air pressure to fill it. Picked up a 64 oz Ball Wide Mouth Mason jar with lid and band and two 3/8" barbed bulkhead pass through fittings and installed the fittings in the lid. Now to extract the fluid I put a hose on one fitting that will go into the axle housing through the fill hole, I cut an angle on the end going into the axle. On the other end of the same barb put a piece of hose that reaches the bottom of the jar, it will be inside the jar. On the other fitting run a hose to a vacuum source, I use a HF AC vacuum pump. The vacuum created in the jar will pull the fluid right out of the housing, quite quickly also. You will have to modulate the vacuum power, I do by squeezing the hose. To put fluid back in it is the same setup with the exception of pressurized air instead of vacuum. Fill the jar with the fluid you want in the housing and apply air to the same hose the vacuum was applied to. Again be careful, it doesn't take much pressure to do the job, a couple pounds will do it. The pressure applied to the inside of the jar pushes the fluid up the other hose and into the housing, again very quickly. I made a custom box to fit the jar in to avoid breakage of the glass. This method is so easy it almost makes a fluid change fun. A trick I learned working marinas, extraction was the only way to change engine oil on large boats with inboard V-8's.
Thank you for sharing
@@martinbuilt Paying forward from one backyard wrench to another.
Hey im new to the channel but i appreciate videos like this. Im getting into the world of cars and hope to be a mechanic one day. as such part of it is keeping my car running and right now thats servicing my leaky front diff. very informative, very helpful.
Great video!! I changed out the rear diff fluid on a 2003 Grand Cherokee Laredo and there were two tags: the gear ratio tag on the driver's side and the gear oil weight tag on the passenger. Thanks again for the great vid.
Thank you 😊 I'm glad you found it helpful 👍
I wanted to post up that I had my fluid done at a shop and they thought it was ok with the oil having the lsd additive in there. Instantly started making noise. Tried adding some OTC additive and it didn't like it still. I bought the mopar additive to redo the service myself. I noticed it was more viscous than the otc brand from the auto parts store.
This is one of the reasons I like doing things myself. That shop should refund your money.
@@martinbuilt I had the ambition but not the time. I was disappointed especially for what they charged.
Holy cow every 12k miles. Awesome video.
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful thank you for watching.
I think it's the additive that's really important if you wanted to you could probably siphon off 4 oz of fluid and replace it with the additive.
Thanks for the reminder I have never done it on my 96 Cherokee. Geter done Doug
You can do it!
Super great video!!! I just bought a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited from my brother. Heaven knows he probably never changed the Differential. Also, before your video I thought it had a drain and fill plug. This is good stuff! Thanks again!
Thank you glad you liked it and found it helpful. Congratulations on purchasing the JGC. Yeah most vehicles probably go through their entire life and never have the differential fluid replaced.
Hey, great to see you again... amazed you change the diff fluid and your hands don't get messy... Jurota pump, is really gerotor, which you know is the star-shaped impeller in the volute having one (or more) points that the rotor. Now, Valvoline has the Valvoline FlexFill 75W140 Full Synthetic Gear Oil, which is in a pouch, very, very easy to use. I was hoping you, personally, had acted as my guinea pig, to test the Valvoline synthetic. Have any info in actual usage? Valvoline claims already has the FM added.
PS: I now have a new 2004 with PowerTech 4.7, only 144k miles, and in the process of de-punking it. New shocks, 1" sway bar on rear, fluids, headlamps, fix the bummed out rear brake lamp bulb holder, right PDM not responding to the fob, nor the lock switch (unlock motion works??), boom box power bus to gone boom amp, replace rear headrests, new rear bumper cover, put a Walker Quietflow with actual tail pipe (I see your tailpipe is shortened to in front of the axle tube), instead of the simple resonator someone had attached aft the cats, and... the auto-dimming rear mirror won't power on... Thankfully, have the FSM 3-vol set and diagnostic manuals, PLUS, I have my OWN DRBIII! keith20mm on JeepForum
Thanks, Martin, I really learn a lot from ya!
Glad to hear it, thank you!
I have a 12 volt suction pump that I use to draw the old oil out of my boat engine at the end of each season.
For my Grand Cherokee and other axles that I change oil in, it comes in really handy -- pop out the plug, insert the 3/16" diameter hose and let it suck all the oil out.
Takes less than 5 minutes. Use any empty gallon container and kindly recycle.
Then, use the pump in reverse to fill the housing with new oil.
No mess, no fuss, no other tools except a screwdriver to pop the plug out.
15 minutes total time and nary a spot of grease on the hands.
I actually don't even have to jack the vehicle up or mess with the anti-sway bar.
And the pump works great for automatic transmissions as well. Just make sure the suction hose is longer than the dipstick, suck out all you can and fill with the same amount of new fluid. Top up if necessary.
Thanks for your input it must be similar to the one I've got a link here for
amzn.to/4eNPC9k
So two quarts and 4oz of additive for the rear and two quarts and 2.5oz for the front. Having a hard time finding exactly how much diff oil to put in the front
1.2 quarts for the front.
From Kevin knew you in west palm @ironhorse had my a.c. system checked checking up on this big condenser thinking your custom modification will work see ya at the spheer
Hello friend, good video, how many liters of 75w 140 oil did you use?
I can’t believe every 12000! I’m at 300000 miles on a 2004 and never been done I sure will now though. Ty so much
Yeah that is kind of typical for many owners to never change their rear axle fluid.
@@martinbuilt well I’m going to now hoping to get 500000 out of it ! Be well
Is the magnet there to ‘pick up’ and hold any stray metal pieces/shavings?
Yes, this can tell you the condition of the rear axle and if there are any problems. This will also keep the metal shavings from damaging bearing and gears.
very informative video on changing the differential gear oil, one question, i am not sure when the last time was I changed the gear oil, but is it ok to just add oil rather than replacing it?
If it is a true limited slip like the one I described in the video I would recommend changing the fluid and adding the additive. If it is a conventional open differential I guess you can get away with just adding, I assume it is leaking a little bit if you need to add.
I watched your video, then looked at my rear end. I was thinking how do you have such great access to your cover!? Did you take the tank or tank protection off? Then I watch it again. You must have put your jack stands on the frame so that the axle would hang down creating more access to the diff cover bolts! Thanks for the great vid!!
Question: Which WJ do you think is the best one? 2008? Trim? Runner up? You could do a video on this!!
Yes placing jack stands on the frame and letting the rear axle hang lower will definitely help but I believe I did the gas tank tuck prior to doing this video which raised the fuel tank 4 inches.
Well I may be a little biased but the 04 WJ is definitely my favorite in the limited edition I only wish it had the 08 or newer 4.7 for the added horsepower.
I really feel that the 99 through '04 Jeep Grand Cherokee is one of the best body styles especially compared to the WK that came after.
Thank you for watching.
@@martinbuilt I agree. I like the 99-04 body style.
I wish you good health and hapiness man ..
thank you, and the same to you.
awesome every video is very helpful save me lots of money doing my own repairs
Glad you found it helpful.
Should i be concerned if both axels seem to have lil bit of diff fluid on the bottom. Just bought a wj. Guy was good at maintaining so not sure if he just serviced them and fluid was left or they are sweating a lil bit.
Best video yet on this process. Thank you!
Wow, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Also is this the same technique and process and procedure for the front?
Yes it is basically the same. Thank you for watching.
Martin you are the man! Thanks for all your videos you have helped me out big time. I have a question on the front differential, do I need the additive in front if I need it in rear differential. I have AWD and thanks for your time.
Thank you Mike I appreciate that. Yeah if you have the Vari lok in the rear, you'll definitely haven't it in the front as well, and you only need 2 and a 1/2 ounces of the friction modifier for the front differential.
Thank you for watching 👀
Hello from France, nice work! You work well with care! I really appreciate!
Hello 👋 I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful 👍 😊
Thank you :) greetings from Poland !
You are very welcome.
Hi I’m new in your channel I liked your video I have a grand Cherokee 2004 and my 4x4 it’s hard to change what type of oil or other liquid go to make it smooth? Thank you very much
Hello Victor, I'm glad to hear you like and subscribe to the channel.
Good to hear you found the content helpful.
Nice and informative! Thanks for doing this! I’m looking to possibly doing this myself. Along with your transfer case video on my 99 JGC 4.7 limited. What’s the brake cleaner used? It opens to multiple on your link description. Thanks
Can't recall exactly what brake cleaner I did use but I wouldn't use anything expensive, go cheap.
@@martinbuilt another question. If using the HD lube locker do you need the other stuff you use in the tube? Or just the locker. Thanks again
I found out that if you have the factory tow package it comes with a dana 44 with a 3:73 ratio with limited slip. My 01 2wd with a 4.7 has the the tow package and has this axle.
thank you for commenting.
Did you allow the Permatex sealant to set up before you fully torqued the bolts or did you just torque to spec right away?
Thanks for saving me a bunch of time. Martin! Every time I watch one of your videos I want to go to my garage and caress some tools. Jacked to do some mods this weekend!
Good to hear that I inspire you to get something done...😆
Now I wish that would work for me.😁
BTW Royal Purple has the friction modifier already in it, its noted on the label.
Their friction modifier is not the same as the one from Mopar. I would highly recommend you use the correct one.
@@martinbuilt I am going to add the Mopar one just in case
Can I simply add fluid if below the indicator hole?
Having your tank moved up definitely helped too I see. Great video. Always great videos. Thanks so much
Thanks 👍yea, loving the fuel tank tuck
All one need do is jack the body up, and let the axle(s) droop. *shrug*
I have a 2004 I would like to do, how do you get too it with the tank covering the rear ?
Very helpful but is it 4oz of friction modifier per quart of diff. lube?
Thank you, it's 4oz total for the rear diff and 2.5oz for the front.
Hi Martin. Great video but I have a question. Both Valvoline and Royal Purple 75W140 synthetic gear oil claim to have a friction modifier. I used the Royal Purple on my last gear oil change for my '99 WJ with the Dana M44 limited slip differential, but after about 5000 miles I'm hearing the groan in some turns. Although they claim to have a friction modifier, do you recommend the full 4 ounces of the MOPAR modifier be added. I noticed you did when you used Valvoline; just wondered if you recommend 4 ounces with the Royal Purple too. Thanks.
Yes I recommend a full 4 oz of the Mopar friction modifier.
The Dana 44 in a Jeep Grand Cherokee is not a typical limited slip and requires the special friction modifier.
Thank you Levon Helm! Lol sorry I had to. You remind me of the great Levon. Anyway, I'm going to give this a go on my 02 Sunday. Man I sure hope it's as easy as you made it look!
I've been called Harrison Ford and Bob Ross, probably because of the way I talk. And now Levon. I had to check out a video of his where he was interviewed with david letterman.
The only thing that may give you a little trouble. Is the fuel tank being in the way I did a gas tank tuck where I raised the fuel tank 4 inches.
Thank you for watching.
@martinbuilt Bob Ross? Lol I don't know what he sounds like but you need a big Garfunkel hairdo to be that guy. Here's kinda the age of Levon I was going off of. th-cam.com/video/0yuWwdQxw68/w-d-xo.htmlsi=v1jqwP-9wIsswHnN
Anyway, I looked at mine and you're right about the tank. That's gonna be a real pain I think. I was going to do it at work yesterday because it's heated in there and they have a lot more tools than
I have at home but I just didn't feel up to doin it. Maybe the weekend after Christmas I'll give it a shot. I'm not looking forward to it I can tell you that. Amazon no longer sells the mopar additive so I got 2 bottles from a jeep dealer. Man your WJ so much nicer than mine! You've done a lot to it. Mines pretty stock, 126k miles, airbag light is on, driver side hearted seat stopped working last winter, one of the front right speakers is blown, it runs on oil. I don't get that. It doesn't leak, doesn't smoke and it's always low on oil! I'm not much for working on cars but everything new and used these days you gotta be a millionaire to buy! Ridiculous. I'm hoping to keep it getting me to work and back for at least another year. It sure is great in the snow but doesn't look like we're gonna get any this year in Chicago which is fine with me! Thanks for the help. I'll be watching the video again as I'm cursing up a storm under my vehicle I'm sure.
Is this correct? Same process for both rear and front, except: Front=2.5oz mopar additive, 1.25 qts 75W-140. Rear=4oz mopar add., 2 qts 75W-140?
Yes that is correct for these vehicles the procedure is the same.
Thank you for watching.
very nicely done Martin. great video as always my friend.
Is the additive in the front end, too? My manual doesn't specify that, and I asked the dealer, and they said only the rear...any idea what's the right way going about it?
Hi, so basically you fill the differential housing till the oil reaches the filling hole.? Asking because just bought my first jeep wj 02 and decided to change the fluids. The seller was ok and all but better be on the safe side.
Hi Martin. Is it possible to install the Verilock rear end in the Quadra Trac 2, or does it only work with Quadradrive? I actually put the additive in both my diffs, not realizing it's ONLY for Verilock which I don't have. I spun my wheels, and they stayed moving opposite to each other, was sad. Thank you.
Doesn't it state to only finger tighten for an hour before tightening completely and allow 24 hours to cure before filling?
Hey Martin. There are 2 ID tags in the diff. The 1 you have and the other one has the 75w-140 syn/72 oz + FM 4 oz
nice, so confirms what I was say about the amount of fluid and also tells you that you have a Varilock differential.
Hey Martin, I have a noise only when I do a slow turn. Changed the fluid and it still is doing it. Do you think it can be the axle seals? Thanks
Thanks for the help sir. Amazing knowledge. God bless you.
Thank you. I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Thanks for watching.
My friend i have a wj 2003 overland.i have a issue.when i turn left the rear right wheel stuck and bad noise .when i turn right os less noise.
That really sounds like the CV joints in the front axle.
Great Video ! IT helps me a lot ! Thank you .
Thank you. I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
So i need to add the additive ONLY IF i'm also towing? If i never tow, does it mean i can only fill it with plain oil? Thx.
What I said was if you have a vari-lock you need to use the additive. Check the VIN number on your vehicle to see if you have one.
Cool danke das ich wieder was lernen durfte. Jetzt mache ich dass selber. Schönes Wochenende und lg Daniel Förster aus der steiermark👌👍
thank you, I will have a good weekend.
@@martinbuilt tahnk you tu👍
Thanks Martin.
Great information.
You're very welcome. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Good stuff sir. Just got a 2003 GC Laredo... last owner did not do much maintenance... just going thru the check list 👍🏽
Right on! Make sure you change the Transfer case fluid th-cam.com/video/YgnEyhuXoOY/w-d-xo.html
Hi, I've got an 04 with quadra drive and tried spinning the rear like you did with the cover off and it kept spinning the opposite direction after 30 seconds of turning and the gears wouldn't spin on the inside. Can it be because there's no fluid in it or do I have to put in drive for it to engage?
Generally does the rear axle only take 2 qrts? doing this soon and I wana make sure I buy enough gonna do rear & front so I bought 4qrts two for each diffs at $35each (mopar75/140) it’s a 07 jgc laredo v6 3.7 btw if I don’t have acetone what’s another alternative 70% rubbing alcohol works?
4 quarts will be enough. Once you have removed all gasket sealer, rubbing alcohol would be okay to remove any residue.
@@martinbuilt awesome 👏🏽 ty for the reply sir! 🤙🏽
Which oil for a Laredo 2.7 crd wit quadra trac? Thanks
Do both front and rear diff take two quarts of gear lube ? and only rear takes 4oz of mopar additive and front takes 2oz additive ? But both get two quarts + additive
The front takes 1.25 quarts plus 2.5oz. additive.
One more question Martin is it ok to use Lucas 75w 140 synthetic or does it have to be fully synthetic like mobile 1
You are a legend! Thank you, sir!
Thank you. I really appreciate that.
Martin, Quick question. The fluid you are using states " Contains Limited - Slip Additive" on the bottle. Is this fluid correct even with the addition of Mopar LSP Additive? Thanks!
It is a different fluid required from Mopar. It is not the same attitive found in that bottle. This is why I added the Mopar additive.
Ahh, thank you Sir!!!
Hey Martin, met you one time at the car wash. Question, what motor oil weight are you using? Just curious as I got an 03 Overland with a 4.7HO in the same climate as you. I've been reading a lot of threads regarding the proper weight for the lash adjusters. Thanks
Yeah, I remember you, nice to hear from you. I have been using 5w30 Full synthetic I have the non-HO engine but during the summer months, I think I should be using 10W30. The HO engines recommend 10W30.
Thanks Martin, yep, that’s what I’ve been running in it.
Very good post...if you will spray around the diff cover with carb cleaner (or acetone) it will help greatly in getting that cover off. That way you can lessen risk of deep scratches in that aluminum case from case hardened steel screwdrivers, etc. Take my word for it, the vari-lok rear end needs the Mopar additive. Regards!!
Great tip, thank you.
5:51 Vari-Lok locks that easily without any load??
Yes and the SureGrip that I have in my Dakota locks up even easier.
@@martinbuilt I'll be honest with you, I don't have a WJ myself, but I like them and I'm doing a lot of research. Seems to me the QuadraDrive is the best choice. Surely the 4hi - N -4lo shifter is not as fancy as a SelecTrac one, but the system is very good with 50/50 in 4lo + Vari-Loks
Hey MartinBuilt, I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8 (VIN-N) standard output engine.
What fluid do I use for the Rear, front differential and transfer case?
I hear the Dana 44 requires (75W90/80W90 with normal use) and 90W140 with heavy towing but I'm not sure what my model has.
Glad to see you taking care of the black beast as always martin.i see ur really enjoying that tank tuk!!now more than ever no more soggy bottom blues!!hey just outa curosity did you think or look into that tramsmission dip stick slop i have that i mentioned! Before.yours may be tight but mines loose and protrudes out of tube.worried about dust and fluid loss!!!!snookie pa.
I have this same problem with the trans dipstick tube...no matter how you orient the thing it pops itself out of the tube about an inch. I used one of my wife's stretchy hair tie things (scuncci?) to hold it in. They last about 2-3 months before the engine bay environment destroys the rubber, but it keeps everything sealed up
I wounder if the vent for the transmission is plugged or pitched and this is causing the dip stick to come out.
@@stonewallcrippen2237 yeah its irritating at very least!!i was thinking of cutting top end somehow and shorting and weld back.or maybe one of those truckers screw rubber tops integrated, if you can find one small enough!!!hard to believe martin hasnt rebooted or designed something better for this one.dont think the scoonch is longterm fix but works temp.thAnks,snookie pa.
@@stonewallcrippen2237 yeah its irritating at very least!!i was thinking of cutting top end somehow and shorting and weld back.or maybe one of those truckers screw rubber tops integrated, if you can find one small enough!!!hard to believe martin hasnt rebooted or designed something better for this one.dont think the scoonch is longterm fix but works temp.thAnks,snookie pa.
Hi Martin, I have a 2000 grand Cherokee 4WD and checked the dealer with my 8 digit VIN. Did you do the same. I have thought I had the same need as you, but not according to my vin.
here is a great website where you can get a build sheet for your vehicle, it is case sensitive so enter the VIN using capital letters.
Chrysler Build Sheet fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing
So if you don’t have a Vari-Loc then both wheels would turn the opposite direction?
How do you know if you have a limited slip?
Thinking about doing this to my car. Just want to make sure I get the right fluids.
Enter your vehicle VIN on this website, it will give you all the info like Vari-lok or open.
Chrysler Build Sheet fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing Enter the VIN as it appears, case sensitive.
@@martinbuilt thanks!
Hi Martin, I am removing my right rear axle shaft and putting new bearings on. When I reinstall that shaft do I have to put anything on it like oil or anything or just go ahead and put it in tighten everything down and fill it up with differential. Thank you and I really appreciate your channel I learn a lot from it as well and I've told some people about it on some of the forms.
Yes reinstall the bearing, you can put a small amount of oil on the bearing but it should get oiled as you refill the diff and put a good film of grease on the seal so that the axle doesn't damage it as you reinstall it.
@@martinbuilt thank you. I found someone to press it back on. I just need to get that outer ring out of the axle tube. Any suggestions? Then once pressed just slide shaft back in and tighten down and fill correct?
@@phennig2003 We did get one out by using two crossed larger wrenches as levers and simultaneously hitting them with hammers on the ends.
Thanks Martin. I have it apart right now and the carrier will not spin at all. My tires initially rotate in opposite directions until the diff engages and then it is just locked up and will not rotate. I found zero metal in the diff case or oil and there is only a super fine paste on the magnet. What should I do from this point? Is it possible that the fluid / friction modifier might be the only cause of this? Seems unlikely
This is a mild form of self immolation. The answer to my previous question is to simply shift it into Neutral! My bad!
@@nottito
glad to hear you figured it out.
I need your help. Own the Grand Cherokee 99. 8V 4.7l and 3-step conversion box we face the problem of the acceleration after 120 kilometers per hour crashes I have the front axle not this time and I have many times changed the axis please reply 🙏
3-step conversion box?
If the rear is a Dana 44, what is the front? Does that mean they both are 44s, or is the front considered a different axle by itself? Mine is a 2004 Limited 4.7 non HO.
The front axle is a Dana 30
@martinbuilt OK, thanks. I just had my Jeep on a lift, I spun 1 rear wheel, they didn't spin in same direction. Even after several spins, they still moved opposite. That means I don't have Verilock, correct? I actually put the additive in the oil when I changed both 2 months ago.
How can you tell if your rear diff is a Dana44 or Dana44hd? I’m thinking about using a felpro gasket that’s available for the Dana44. It’s a 2004 grand Cherokee limited 4.7 ho with Quadra drive
All the Dana 44Hd's have have a aluminum center section. But you definitely have the hd model.
@@martinbuilt thanks for the info, I’ll probably just use the paste then . Do you wait 24 hours to allow it to cure before driving? Also, aren’t the bolts supposed to be torqued to 30 pounds not 15?
I printed my equipment list. It says DANA 44/226MM REAR AXLE
VARI-LOK PROGRESSIVE REAR AXLE.
I don't have a trailer hitch. So per the manual you showed in the video I'm thinking I don't need the additive. Would you agree?
I'm thinking because it is a vari-lok you do need the additive.
@@martinbuilt my 2003 manual reads same as your 2004. I'm thinking now the last statement covers all references to the vari-lok. Thanks
Nice work. Is that magnet on the cover OEM? My 9 1/4" on the Ram has a magnet in the housing.
I used a Fel-Pro gasket on mine. It makes removal so much easier. No leaks after 3 years. Im almost due; with my usage I go 30k miles on diff fluid
yes that magnet was OEM
My spare tire compartment is way lower than yours so I can’t even get to most of my bolts , how can I get to them ?
You may need to disconnect the shocks at the axle and then raise the body and that should lower the axle to the point where you can get to them.
My Jeep is actually lowered 1"
Hi Martin. Need your input. As we spoke, took jeep to shop this morning. Was told besides my seal and baring replaced, that the differental housing is bad and they asking $1200 to fix. Do you have a vedio on it? And any advice?? Picking up in 2 1/2 hours. Costing $310 for new seal and baring. Edit: so they said the axel housing around the race is worn and the race is spinning. $1200 complete axel housing and $400 for labor.
I would get another complete axle from the local salvage yard for no more than $200 and replace the whole thing.
What did they say was wrong with it?
@@martinbuilt . It's not the axel, it's the housing tube that's rounded out so the race is spinning and is not tight.
How did you get the vehicle jacked up to get that much clearance to get at all the differential bolts?
I did a fuel tank tuck that raised the the fuel tank 4 inches but, I don't think that should have made that much of a difference since I also have limit straps that keep the rear axle from dropping any farther down. Raise the Jeep at the frame that will give you the most clearness.
Thanks! I ended up jacking up the body to let the wheels and axle drop down. Gave me plenty of room. Waiting to fill it tomorrow as the gasket sealer says to wait 24 hours after torquing them down.
Thanks for the awesome video!
Good morning sir I have a couple questions I Have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2004 with the 4.7 Engine I don't think that the transfer case lubricate has ever been changed and I think it has the wrong stuff in it but I've been operating with it like this for so long will it hurt me to change it in the long run
I would change the fluid to the recommended fluid here is a link.
Genuine Chrysler Transfer Case Lubricant NV 245/247/249 1 Quart amzn.to/2TehFs6
@@martinbuilt please forgive my ignorance . Is one quart all that it takes? Also is it the same fluid for the front?
Martin, I have an '04 WJ, quadra trac II, 4.7 v8. The clutch discs in the rear differential are shot. The shop says that the parts I need are discontinued through Dana. Do you know of a suitable replacement? I know you need info like gear ratio, is it a Dana 35, or 44 axle. I just wanted to get your thoughts, as the shop says the only way to replace it is with a used axle, or ARB Locker.....I'm not saying I know more than them, since that is their job, but as many WJ's and jeeps in general that are still out there 17+ years old, there has to be aftermarket replacement parts.
What wheels you got on there? My oem 5 star chrome rims are delaminating and just going to crap. Ive always loved your rims.
Here is a link OE Wheels 20 Inch Style Gloss Black 20x9 Rim amzn.to/2EV6Fan
Hey Martin, looks like tucking that tank gives you a nice amount of clearance.
If I just disconnect the sway bar and link, have the WJ supported on the frame, can I lower the axle with a jack to get more clearance? Going to be installing the Aussielocker on my Dana 44A soon and I need to remove the carrier to remove the cross shaft.
Thanks
yes the tuck helps some and sure looks better, just lift the Jeep at the frame and you should be okay. Why do you need to remove the carrier to get the cross pin out?
@@martinbuilt Going to tackle this today, I will report back with findings for people in the future if they decide to install on the Dana 44A any lunchbox locker. I am going into this assuming that there will be interference between the ring gear and the cross pin and that it will need to be removed in order to remove the spider gears.
@@martinbuilt So i pulled the cover, and you can easily remove the cross pin without needing to remove the carrier. I decided to remove the carrier to check the bearings and clean out the assembly, plus I didn't have much room to work on the ground. If I had a hydraulic lift (maybe one day haha), i would have just left it.
So in recap, you can install a lunchbox locker in the Dana 44a WJ rears without the need to remove the carrier, cross pin does not interfer with the ring gear.
Glad it all worked out.
Hello Martin. I have a 2004 JGC WJ with Select-Trac, how do you check the rear diff if you have the gas tank in the way?
raise the Jeep at the frame and support this should allow the axle to drop and give you access.
@@martinbuilt Brilliant, I will have to try that. I really just want to see if there is gear oil in the diff. I bought the JGC from my son's mother-in-law with 106k and I don't believe she abused it, but it lived in Pennsylvania so I'll have to look at the frame carefully. Thanks for the reply, take care.
9:33 ... Que the erotica musika . . . . I added a drain plug to my covers so I wouldn't have to remove them as often.
Just drain and fill, and do a more thorough cleaning intermittently.
I was debating if I should have added one, maybe next time.
@@martinbuilt ... I used an O2 sensor bung and a ford drain plug w/a magnet on the end. I got everything as hot as I could with propane and brazed the bung over a pre-drilled hole. Great video, nevertheless.
I like that idea another great one!!snookie pa.never trusted just that rubber plug!!
Hi, Your doing great and you have nice car. I have a question. My 2002 grand Cherokee when turning sharp rubbing noise at back. Do you know what is the problem. Just let me know. Thanks
That doesn't sound familiar, maybe something with the brake or it could be the fluid needs to be changed.
martinbuilt what fluid! I will take look the break fluid. Thank you so much
@@genrics.5466 what I meant to say is that the rear end fluid needs to be changed or maybe something wrong with the brakes, like the rotors and brake pads.
Awesome video!!!
I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. thank you for watching 😁
Is it 2QT's for both front and rear?
The front needs 1.25 Quarts
@@martinbuilt got it thanks!
Doing my front diff right now. Boy is it tough to reach in there. Not looking forward to the rear. That fuel tank tuck sure does he’ll
yes, the fuel tank tuck probably helped. You raise the Jeep from the frame, disconnect the shocks and the rear axle will drop more for better access.
Mártin, another greath greath job, i make in my Grand Cherokke WJ. THANKS BRO.
Thank you Marco
Hy! How many spline have this differential on his axle? My Jeep GC is 2003 with V8 (4.7L) engine!
That should have a 30 spline axle
Congratulations; I need thist.
Thanks
you are welcome
Jeep tell me I need normal 80/90 gear oil!!!! For a 2001 wj Quadra drive with Lsd!! No parts in the UK! Nightmare!!!! Can I use any 75/140 with any friction additive at 7%? Please help
Yes you can use the 75/140 with friction modifier that should not be a problem.
@@martinbuilt chers Martin! Really appreciate your help! As do thousands of old jeep owners!!!!! Knowledge is POWER!!!! 😎
Hi Martin,
Great video! Do you think that it's too late to change my differential fluid? My 2000 jeep WJ is at 270 000 km. Im not sure if previous owners did it or not. Just curious if it's like transmissions where changing it now could have some negative effects or should I go ahead and change it?
Thank you, It's never too late, go ahead and change it.
@@martinbuilt Thank you for the quick response. I will be changing it. Also would you say I should do the same for the transfer case fluid as well ? Thanks in advance.
Went with some cheap ass WalMart "Super Tech" 80w-90 in my front diff (Selec-Trac) and the people in the forums went batshit, because I had the axle tag on the rear saying 75w-140, which I did actually use (Valvoline synthetic) in there. 🙃
I came to this conclusion by reading the same passage was was highlighted in this video, from m original owners' manual, even though it was a 2002 model. Should I have put 75w-140 in BOTH the front and rear diffs?
Thanks for what you are doing
My pleasure! 😊
Just 1 question. I have the 2002 Overland. Should I add the 4oz. FM with the Valvoline SAE 75W-140 in the rear? The bottle says it contains FM already.
yes, use the additive the one in the Valvoline is not adequate for the posi unit it the Jeeps.
@@martinbuilt ty
Good day. My cherokee wj does not have that effect that you do when you turn the wheel that they turn in the opposite direction and then they turn in the same direction I did that test and it does not only turn in the opposite direction. Could it be that my wj does not have the vari lok or is it damaged?
it is most likely has a open differential
@@martinbuilt but you primed the vari lok pump before running the test. i just saw the manual and i need to prime the vari lok pump first.