Thanks for the video. I was having a helluva time getting that inner race off and was cutting into the retainer bracket. I didn't even think to angle the cutoff wheel at an angle like that.
Differential oil lubes the bearing you don't initially grease them, petroleum jelly that will melt is just fine. Actually it's plugging up the bearing passage for the 90w to get in there.
I wish I had a bearing press, great video! I had one side cooperate taking the bearing race out, the other side I had to get creative.. Too late to grind and stuff so Ill have to tackle that tomorrow.
The black wire is not a speed sensor for the speedometer, but for the ABS braking system ;-) It's not necessary to remove the sensor. The new bearing will be greased better if the outer race is taken off. It comes off easy.
great video. my childs 04 had the axle come out and start rubbing the rotor against the caliper bracket actually wore 1/4-1/2 inch off of it. have taken the axle out and am doing this procedure tomorrow. luck has it my father in law has a press. thx joel
great video. A couple of things for those of us lacking tools and a garage. The puller can be substitude by turning the rotor around and using it, as a puller. An electric angle grinder works too along with a metal chisel. Any advice on getting the outer race out of the shaft assembly? Mine seems stuck and I'm not about to start pounding it....Why was the speed sensor removed?I don't have a press so taking axle to a local mechanic and hopefully I will not be raked over to coals.Thanks for the step by step
Great video. I will stress to notice how old bearing came out. Manufacturers label facing toward wheel or you when you pull it out. I knew to do this but still put it on backwards. Couldn’t believe it. So stupid lol. Anyway some folks at store and others say it doesn’t matter. I cut f/up one off and bought another new one and put it on correctly. I suspect some that say they did it exactly like this video and now have noise prolly put it on backwards. It’s not hard mistake to make. Also I didn’t have a press, nor was I gonna buy one and take it back. Shops around here wanna charge a Normal vehicle repair job around 600$ for 10 minute press job for both axles. BS I know. Anyway saw a video and the guy had a pipe and slammed it a few times and was done. I bought a 12” pipe, think it was 1 or 1 1/2 diameter, (matched pipe with bearing at store) and four or five whacks and it was pressed. Make sure the pipe doesn’t have any residue inside it or it will come off and prolly get into bearings. I was replacing rotors so I put old ones on backwards. That way I could stand axle vertical when I was sliding/slamming pipe/bearing, and used it knocking axle out with hammer.
note: if you pull the axle on a dana 35 44 and no axle oil flows out then do the other side too because the oil is what keeps those bearings lubed. u should do both sides anyway many reasons but cost is lower if u get the sets. plus u know they came from same manufacturer and u know both are good. and done
It's important to note that you should NOT reuse the four nuts holding the shaft and seals to the axle. Even cleaning the nuts, using locktite can still allow the four nuts to vibrate loose. The nuts are inexpensive through after market like Dorman. The nuts have been discontinued according to Jeep. So for the few extra dollars it costs do NOT reuse the retainer nuts. On the new nuts and retainer bolts it's a good idea to use the locktite.
First time seeing a rear greased axel bearing??? But you got it all done, no more contamination! The retainer plate substitute seems thinner than the OEM, check it after a while.
Or just drag the bearing up your palm repeatedly, grabbing a bit more grease with each pull until you see it come out the other side. A mechanic taught me that back when I was a kid.
I’ve heard to always use new locking nuts ! They don’t come w most kits. So be sure to get them, 14 mm wrench removed them! Not sure w mm nut size! Also if you want to know which differential you have it is stamped on the fill plug! You may have said this … just good info would’ve saved me hrs of cross reference every part!
Your need to put Mopar diff fluid additive in the rear diff orr you'll burn it up. These are limited slip differentials. Mix it in with your gear oil and have it in level ground and add it till it starts pouring out.
I dont get "packing" the bearing as its lubed by gear oil. Also, the diff may need special additive or oil for the limited slip or locker depending on which 4x4 system the vehicle has.
It has to go back in (all of the way). Try turning the axle so the “teeth” at the end you are inserting will mesh up with the teeth in the differential. If it can out relatively easy, it should go in easy (with some turning of the axle). If you absolutely can’t get it in, you may have an issue with the rear differential and may need to remove the differential cover (which will necessitate change the fluid, but it should be done around every 30,000 miles anyway.
Furthermore, the rear differential cover is visible at 20:42 in the video (when I begin to top off the fluid lost from removing the axle). The bolt (visible in the video) all around the edge would need to be removed. You would use silicone to re-seal it when re-installing the cover. Again, this is if you can’t get the axle completely in and need to remove the cover to inspect the “guts” of the differential for a problem or obstruction. Otherwise, if just changing the fluid, it is easier to pump out the old fluid (with a transfer pump) and pump in new fluid.
probably didn't need to pack bearing that is soaked it gear oil but just an fyi you pack a bearing by taking a small amount of grease in the palm of one hand and slap the bearing into the grease until grease oozes out the top of the bearing and rotate it until it is full ... aside from that great video
I thought this was an excellent video. I've normally only owned a Chevy (2 Camaros and a Cutlass) Just recently bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, 1999 185k miles, for 2500 Tax, Title and License. So, i hear this noise from the rear driver's side wheel. Whirring noise. Knowing bearings i knew it had to be them, no leaks no smoke. Took it to Les Schwab they said its either the bearings or a bent axle. Went to go buy bearings and he said they're in the axle, now from watching your video i understand what he said. LOL thank you. It sounds like bearings don't have any, or very little grease in them, whirring kind of noise, gets faster with speed and slower with deceleration, under 10mp cant hear it at all. slowing or speeding up. Any ideas would be greatly appreciative. A guy i know and trust said 800 or so, with the a/c problem im having. think that's a good price? im thinking it might be low on fluid?
If this is a gear oil lubricated bearing why are you packing that new bearing with grease? That grease would in turn break down in that gear oil and contaminate the whole axle.
thank you, I have liked to see how its put evrey thing back in place I am a begginer in this things ja ja ja . I got WJ and I started to lift it 6 inches and Ihave this questions : Which Cherokee has the strongest Transmission ?? for off road purposes ?? . Sorry for my English
Thanks for the feedback everyone. Thanks for the correction Svein - maybe I can dub the audio over ;) Edgar, the only thing I can think of for the rubbing sound is: 1) the bearing was bad 2) the bearing wasn't greased properly 3) the differential is low on fluid 4) another bearing or component of the vehicle is making the sound
Hi I was wondering I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee quad drive. can I replace my axle the same way. I was told I couldn't I have to get the part from the dealer and drain my rear release a pin?
I Noticed you put the race on the bearing. That would be backwards than how it comes from factory. Is that a better means of doing that install? Did it hold up good?
just had this done for 2nd time same wheel 1st time in jan 20 20 told seal leaking was caused by my axel rod that was not replaced 1st time dif oil leaked onto drum and had burning smell also 2nd time car sounded like i was dragging something.new axelrod now so far so good 100miles your opinion please.have 2001 jgc with 144000 miles
off topic a bit , i have a 99 jeep grand cherokee limited, full time 4 wheel, started making noise on the freeway this am, told it might be wheel bearing, when i jack up the front with it in park should the front wheels spin easy
Nice video...did you open the differential to remove the C-clip before you pulled out the axle or this model doesn't have C-clip? Really appreciate it if you could give me some info., thanks!
After replacing Wheel bearing.....the bearing/race failed to keep the axle in place. Brake caliper bracket started rubbing rotor which in turn locket up the wheel. The race bearings and other components were fully seated. Any suggestions on how to prevent this?
Edgar, might be a bad bearing, u joint, or an issue with your brakes. Try jacking up the rear end with the truck in neutral (make sure the front tires are chocked good and that you are on a level surface!!!!!!!!). With the rear end jacked up, try turning the rear wheels. If a bearing is bad, you should hear and/or feel a "growl."
Hi My garage has change mine twice now, same nearside wheel, 1st one lasted 2 weeks the second about a month and its still leaking, any ideas whats going on, even he is stumped
@@r.weaver3769 i had mine done in jan this year then again last week told my axelrod cut into seal. since been replaced.wasnt cheep.thats when i found out what jeep stands for Empty Every Pocket.
I have to replace my bearing for a 3rd time. somehow the hub starts off with a little play on it and gets worse as time goes on. What is it that holds the hub in place and stops it from moving? Garage says it maybe the shaft is worn and bearing is not holding tight anymore. Thoughts?
I am having the same problem. I replaced bearings on both axles. The passenger side held but the drivers side did not hold. Within one week of driving the bearings failed. This is the second time in two months. Did you find the problem and the solution?
@@mdew24 i got about 5000 miles on my driver rear just have to redo now paid a shop 3 00 to fix them i tenn ,,gurr they used a torch to cut off an messed up the axle ,,now 306 for new part again 11.24 18
Why not just replace the entire hub assembly? Opposed to sawing the bearing off ? I live in northern Michigan and if I were to go through all that trouble on a vehicle with over 100k miles it'd make sense to replace everything
Hey flash....The noises are gone...now the only thing I notice is a wobble when being driven on flat road...both sides!!!it's driving me crazy...did you have to hit the axles with slide hammer when putting back in?
I'm about to do this same job on my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L. Do the 4.7 and the 4.0 share the same rear end? If so, this video will be amazingly helpful!
We heat bearings in a oven at 250 for heavy equipment still expands a thousandth an inch for every inch of diameter not sure if the bearing is big enough for that tho
Let him do it. That’s about how much the parts cost. I’m doing both sides though. Think the kits that have plate, bearing w/ races and seal is around $160.
@@peterdahlstrom3632kool. Thanks. Where are buying the kit from? Online?... Do share the link if you have any recommendation for me. Appreciate your reply.
@@peterdahlstrom3632 Thank for your reply. So I was making a purchase at the advanced auto part. Wanted to share the link with you to see if I need anything in addition to this. shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/crown-auto-jeep-replacmnt-axle-shaft-bearing-kit-left-or-right-rear-dana-35-dana-44-ball-bearing-incl-seals-single-d35wjabk/11740134-P?searchTerm=wheel+seals
That’s it. I changed my rear pads cause one side was wet with oil from leaky seal. I also adjusted parking brake pads and replaced both rotors. I also didn’t use a press. Just got a pipe and slammed the collar down. 5 hits or so. Worked great
I habe a problem with my 2002 Grand Cherokee. When I try to reverse, my right tire locks up. It's ok in forward. I drove it home, 200 miles with no issue. just no back travel. pulled the rotor disc, put the tire back on, and problem still there. Eliminated tje brakes. Any suggestions... I'm at a loss...
Great walk through... done this on many vehicles myself and I couldn't have done it better. Off topic what rotors are you running, stillen? Any who I'm 99wj01tj on jeep forum. And to Edgar if its not the bearing making g the sound it may be u joint on the driveshaft. When they go bad they him too.
Very good video, and great explanation. How did you clean the inside if the axel shaft? Also, did you have any difficulty with the wonky stud plate that came with your kit? Did they supply the fasteners?
Anyone can help? First time i changed It was leaking but bearings were ok, It lasted for a week, thought maybe i put something wrong or the part was not good. So i did It again lasted for 5 months and now again leaking the same wheel, bearings are ok though its always the seal?
my 2002 laredo 4.7 ho has bad seals in the right rear, im gonna replace it mysepf but i have a few questions, what bearing grease did you use, and how do i find out what gear oil to use? also im getting some move to the left (rear end shifts left) when accelerating, and back to the right when i let off the gas, much more noticable at highway speeds, have i blow my diff? how do i know if i have a limited slip diff? and if the not a blow rear ens could it be a bad control arm or somwthing of thay nature, thanks to anyway who can respond and help
John Aranjo mine shifts slightly as well when accelerating and decelerating, almost feels like its steering slightly from the rear. I crawled under my WJ and found one of the side bushings on the upper Y link severely worn and believe that's my issue. Crawl under yours and grab every link with a bushing/ball joint and try to see if it moves any. There should be nearly no movement by hand.
I have to do the same work on my Liberty 2004 in the rear end. Anyone has done it for a liberty?? Is it the same process? Do you always need to cut the bearing to get it out??? Thanks in advance
When you put the axle back in did you have to press or use the sliding hammer to push the bearing back into the housing? I can't imagine the bearing retainer is used to pull it back into the housing? Thanks.
rmontez No, the completed axle just slides right in. Once it is almost all the way in, you may have to jiggle it or rotate it slightly so the splines at the end of the axle line up (but it should not take any significant force to push it back in).
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ALL I CAN SAY IS THAT THIS IS AMONG THE BEST CONTENT, BEST PRODUCED AND BEST EXPLAINED VIDEOS I HAVE EVER SEEN!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
Thank you for saving my life I still haven't taken the last ring but you showed me thank you so much thank you
I'm taking my son's Cherokee to the shop tomorrow to have this done. Thanks for showing how it's done.
FINALLY! A 2000 WJ video and on a repair I need done! New subscriber. 👍
I know I will be having to replace mine soon so thank you for the very good video on how to do this. Thank you
Thanks for the video. I was having a helluva time getting that inner race off and was cutting into the retainer bracket. I didn't even think to angle the cutoff wheel at an angle like that.
instaBlaster...
Differential oil lubes the bearing you don't initially grease them, petroleum jelly that will melt is just fine. Actually it's plugging up the bearing passage for the 90w to get in there.
I wish I had a bearing press, great video! I had one side cooperate taking the bearing race out, the other side I had to get creative.. Too late to grind and stuff so Ill have to tackle that tomorrow.
Awesome video. You make it look EZ. You helped me a lot. Thank you. You saved me big $$$.
bought a grand cherokee off my uncle and the rear axle shaft was bent so this helps greatly
The black wire is not a speed sensor for the speedometer, but for the ABS braking system ;-) It's not necessary to remove the sensor.
The new bearing will be greased better if the outer race is taken off. It comes off easy.
Awesome video mate, thank you for your time doing this 👍
great video. my childs 04 had the axle come out and start rubbing the rotor against the caliper bracket actually wore 1/4-1/2 inch off of it. have taken the axle out and am doing this procedure tomorrow. luck has it my father in law has a press.
thx
joel
great video. A couple of things for those of us lacking tools and a garage. The puller can be substitude by turning the rotor around and using it, as a puller. An electric angle grinder works too along with a metal chisel. Any advice on getting the outer race out of the shaft assembly? Mine seems stuck and I'm not about to start pounding it....Why was the speed sensor removed?I don't have a press so taking axle to a local mechanic and hopefully I will not be raked over to coals.Thanks for the step by step
Great video. I will stress to notice how old bearing came out. Manufacturers label facing toward wheel or you when you pull it out. I knew to do this but still put it on backwards. Couldn’t believe it. So stupid lol. Anyway some folks at store and others say it doesn’t matter. I cut f/up one off and bought another new one and put it on correctly. I suspect some that say they did it exactly like this video and now have noise prolly put it on backwards. It’s not hard mistake to make.
Also I didn’t have a press, nor was I gonna buy one and take it back. Shops around here wanna charge a Normal vehicle repair job around 600$ for 10 minute press job for both axles. BS I know. Anyway saw a video and the guy had a pipe and slammed it a few times and was done. I bought a 12” pipe, think it was 1 or 1 1/2 diameter, (matched pipe with bearing at store) and four or five whacks and it was pressed. Make sure the pipe doesn’t have any residue inside it or it will come off and prolly get into bearings. I was replacing rotors so I put old ones on backwards. That way I could stand axle vertical when I was sliding/slamming pipe/bearing, and used it knocking axle out with hammer.
note: if you pull the axle on a dana 35 44 and no axle oil flows out then do the other side too because the oil is what keeps those bearings lubed. u should do both sides anyway many reasons but cost is lower if u get the sets. plus u know they came from same manufacturer and u know both are good. and done
Definitely makes cents!
It's important to note that you should NOT reuse the four nuts holding the shaft and seals to the axle. Even cleaning the nuts, using locktite can still allow the four nuts to vibrate loose. The nuts are inexpensive through after market like Dorman. The nuts have been discontinued according to Jeep. So for the few extra dollars it costs do NOT reuse the retainer nuts. On the new nuts and retainer bolts it's a good idea to use the locktite.
To remove the retainer and inner race, put a bead of weld on the outside of them. when they cool, the weld shrinks and they slide right off 😃
This dude has never packed a bearing by hand before or pressed one and it shows
Exactly !!! ! !!!
No doubt...grinding and chief is last resort
Came to the comments to say that.
@@PorkCh0pExpr3ss the problem is those bearings are not packed right and will fail prematurely.
@@jamesallbright3170 ahh yeah.... I'm agreeing with you.th-cam.com/video/BhL1uAp_WCw/w-d-xo.html
Still relevant, Thanks mate...
First time seeing a rear greased axel bearing??? But you got it all done, no more contamination! The retainer plate substitute seems thinner than the OEM, check it after a while.
Thank you Sir. Very informative and instructive.
Best way to pack a bearing is to put a decent amount on you hand and slap the bearing against it this forces the grease between the bearing races.
Or just drag the bearing up your palm repeatedly, grabbing a bit more grease with each pull until you see it come out the other side. A mechanic taught me that back when I was a kid.
I’ve heard to always use new locking nuts !
They don’t come w most kits. So be sure to get them, 14 mm wrench removed them! Not sure w mm nut size!
Also if you want to know which differential you have it is stamped on the fill plug!
You may have said this … just good info would’ve saved me hrs of cross reference every part!
Your need to put Mopar diff fluid additive in the rear diff orr you'll burn it up. These are limited slip differentials. Mix it in with your gear oil and have it in level ground and add it till it starts pouring out.
I dont get "packing" the bearing as its lubed by gear oil. Also, the diff may need special additive or oil for the limited slip or locker depending on which 4x4 system the vehicle has.
It has to go back in (all of the way). Try turning the axle so the “teeth” at the end you are inserting will mesh up with the teeth in the differential. If it can out relatively easy, it should go in easy (with some turning of the axle). If you absolutely can’t get it in, you may have an issue with the rear differential and may need to remove the differential cover (which will necessitate change the fluid, but it should be done around every 30,000 miles anyway.
Furthermore, the rear differential cover is visible at 20:42 in the video (when I begin to top off the fluid lost from removing the axle). The bolt (visible in the video) all around the edge would need to be removed. You would use silicone to re-seal it when re-installing the cover. Again, this is if you can’t get the axle completely in and need to remove the cover to inspect the “guts” of the differential for a problem or obstruction. Otherwise, if just changing the fluid, it is easier to pump out the old fluid (with a transfer pump) and pump in new fluid.
@@PSFlash-rg8nm can you tell me the part number of the seal and the bearings
probably didn't need to pack bearing that is soaked it gear oil but just an fyi you pack a bearing by taking a small amount of grease in the palm of one hand and slap the bearing into the grease until grease oozes out the top of the bearing and rotate it until it is full ... aside from that great video
inflation got us hard on that press
This is really great content
David, I'm running "Powerstop Extreme - truck and tow" pads and rotors. I put them in about 18 months ago and they seem good so far.
Great video my friend, doing this soon. Came here from jeepforum
I thought this was an excellent video. I've normally only owned a Chevy (2 Camaros and a Cutlass) Just recently bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, 1999 185k miles, for 2500 Tax, Title and License. So, i hear this noise from the rear driver's side wheel. Whirring noise. Knowing bearings i knew it had to be them, no leaks no smoke. Took it to Les Schwab they said its either the bearings or a bent axle. Went to go buy bearings and he said they're in the axle, now from watching your video i understand what he said. LOL thank you. It sounds like bearings don't have any, or very little grease in them, whirring kind of noise, gets faster with speed and slower with deceleration, under 10mp cant hear it at all. slowing or speeding up. Any ideas would be greatly appreciative. A guy i know and trust said 800 or so, with the a/c problem im having. think that's a good price? im thinking it might be low on fluid?
I like your channel I have subscribed 👍
If this is a gear oil lubricated bearing why are you packing that new bearing with grease? That grease would in turn break down in that gear oil and contaminate the whole axle.
thank you, I have liked to see how its put evrey thing back in place I am a begginer in this things ja ja ja . I got WJ and I started to lift it 6 inches and Ihave this questions : Which Cherokee has the strongest Transmission ?? for off road purposes ?? . Sorry for my English
Thanks for the feedback everyone.
Thanks for the correction Svein - maybe I can dub the audio over ;)
Edgar, the only thing I can think of for the rubbing sound is:
1) the bearing was bad
2) the bearing wasn't greased properly
3) the differential is low on fluid
4) another bearing or component of the vehicle is making the sound
Hi I was wondering I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee quad drive. can I replace my axle the same way. I was told I couldn't I have to get the part from the dealer and drain my rear release a pin?
Rich Gos The 2002 is still a WJ and should be the same,
Excelente gran video
Me deja buenas ideas para ese el cambio de balero
I Noticed you put the race on the bearing. That would be backwards than how it comes from factory. Is that a better means of doing that install? Did it hold up good?
just had this done for 2nd time same wheel 1st time in jan 20 20 told seal leaking was caused by my axel rod that was not replaced 1st time dif oil leaked onto drum and had burning smell also 2nd time car sounded like i was dragging something.new axelrod now so far so good 100miles your opinion please.have 2001 jgc with 144000 miles
Excellent video, thanks.
Excellent video
Very Well explained!!!👍👍👍‼️
How much dose a job like that run? have the same issue on the same side rear wheel.
Gracias amigo x su EXPLICACION OS FELICITO
How the hell did you just pull on that race and it just pop out of the axle housing?
Great vid
Can you remove the seal and bearing without cutting??
it's NOT a speed sensor! it's a ABS sensor
Hey man this is an awesome video. Thank you so much for sharing!
Good job
off topic a bit , i have a 99 jeep grand cherokee limited, full time 4 wheel, started making noise on the freeway this am, told it might be wheel bearing, when i jack up the front with it in park should the front wheels spin easy
Thanks for the video needed the hammer get job done .
I didn’t see a Jack stand under the vehicle….also that speed sensor you removed is not for the speedometer, it’s for the antilock brakes.
Great job right up to the "PBR"....;-)
Dude how did your rotor come off so easy what I'm I doing wrong
Nice video...did you open the differential to remove the C-clip before you pulled out the axle or this model doesn't have C-clip? Really appreciate it if you could give me some info., thanks!
The bolts and nuts that he took off behind the backing plate are the retaining clip. No C clip in this application.
After replacing Wheel bearing.....the bearing/race failed to keep the axle in place. Brake caliper bracket started rubbing rotor which in turn locket up the wheel. The race bearings and other components were fully seated. Any suggestions on how to prevent this?
GR8 video.
Edgar, might be a bad bearing, u joint, or an issue with your brakes. Try jacking up the rear end with the truck in neutral (make sure the front tires are chocked good and that you are on a level surface!!!!!!!!). With the rear end jacked up, try turning the rear wheels. If a bearing is bad, you should hear and/or feel a "growl."
Hi
My garage has change mine twice now, same nearside wheel, 1st one lasted 2 weeks the second about a month
and its still leaking, any ideas whats going on, even he is stumped
Mine is the same. Twice already same wheel, first time It lasted a week and now after 5 montes again, no idea whats wrong with It?
@@eltiburon466 The part of the axle that the seal ride on is worn (there is a groove that is preventing a good seal) Replace the axle.
The axle is worn where seal rides, replace the axle.
@@r.weaver3769 i had mine done in jan this year then again last week told my axelrod cut into seal. since been replaced.wasnt cheep.thats when i found out what jeep stands for Empty Every Pocket.
Replace retainer
I have to replace my bearing for a 3rd time. somehow the hub starts off with a little play on it and gets worse as time goes on. What is it that holds the hub in place and stops it from moving? Garage says it maybe the shaft is worn and bearing is not holding tight anymore. Thoughts?
I am having the same problem. I replaced bearings on both axles. The passenger side held but the drivers side did not hold. Within one week of driving the bearings failed. This is the second time in two months. Did you find the problem and the solution?
@@mdew24 i got about 5000 miles on my driver rear just have to redo now paid a shop 3 00 to fix them i tenn ,,gurr they used a torch to cut off an messed up the axle ,,now 306 for new part again 11.24 18
Does the backing plate create the preload? In which case if the bolts were overtightened or not torqued to spec there would be play.
why does this have to be cut off ? Is this the only way of removal ?
Why not just replace the entire hub assembly? Opposed to sawing the bearing off ? I live in northern Michigan and if I were to go through all that trouble on a vehicle with over 100k miles it'd make sense to replace everything
Great video thanks
Which axle is longer ? Right or left ?
Does anybody know?
excelente gracias por la información. .te felicito
would you happen to know why i hear all kinds of rubbing after this procedure? i did it exactly how you show here> ..
Yeah me too sounds like metal to metal rubbing
Hey flash....The noises are gone...now the only thing I notice is a wobble when being driven on flat road...both sides!!!it's driving me crazy...did you have to hit the axles with slide hammer when putting back in?
Got it diagnosed and fixed now....axels where warped.
But yes everything was put in correctly when I did it.
Does that housing/back plate for the rotor comes off like the rotor? When I took mines out that housing was lose
hard work
and great job
I'm about to do this same job on my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L. Do the 4.7 and the 4.0 share the same rear end? If so, this video will be amazingly helpful!
H g ff#
Before you do this make sure to remove the 1/2 moon clip out of the dif
These axles don't have a clip.
Nice
What are the part's for this job ???
05:40 - Tool : "Axle Bearing Puller Kit and Slide Hammer Set "
Great video, thanks. Looks like a crap load of work. By doing it yourself you paid for the bearing press.
is there a way to put the bearing on without a press?
I am attempting this on Saturday with a hot oven, a length of 1 1/2 inch pipe and a bid mallet. Wish me luck !
Done this today. The bearing went on easy enough, the spacer/retainer didnt go on so easy tho, took a lot of careful hammering.
no
We heat bearings in a oven at 250 for heavy equipment still expands a thousandth an inch for every inch of diameter not sure if the bearing is big enough for that tho
I got the same jeep, same color, same build with the same issue. How much did all the parts cost? I got a mechanic willing to do it for 300$..
Let him do it. That’s about how much the parts cost. I’m doing both sides though. Think the kits that have plate, bearing w/ races and seal is around $160.
@@peterdahlstrom3632kool. Thanks. Where are buying the kit from? Online?... Do share the link if you have any recommendation for me. Appreciate your reply.
Syed Siraj Rizvi
I got mine from Oreillys but advanced auto parts has them as well. They come in kits that have everything on their online sites.
@@peterdahlstrom3632 Thank for your reply. So I was making a purchase at the advanced auto part. Wanted to share the link with you to see if I need anything in addition to this.
shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/crown-auto-jeep-replacmnt-axle-shaft-bearing-kit-left-or-right-rear-dana-35-dana-44-ball-bearing-incl-seals-single-d35wjabk/11740134-P?searchTerm=wheel+seals
That’s it. I changed my rear pads cause one side was wet with oil from leaky seal. I also adjusted parking brake pads and replaced both rotors.
I also didn’t use a press. Just got a pipe and slammed the collar down. 5 hits or so. Worked great
I habe a problem with my 2002 Grand Cherokee. When I try to reverse, my right tire locks up. It's ok in forward. I drove it home, 200 miles with no issue. just no back travel. pulled the rotor disc, put the tire back on, and problem still there. Eliminated tje brakes. Any suggestions... I'm at a loss...
Not sure- sounds like your rear differential. What Power rain do you have (Quadratrac or Quadradrive)?
James Boles caliper bracket
dude the axel is not perpendicular how is this okay ? 16:51
Same procedure with my 2003 quadra drive dana 44
does 99 gran cherokee have the dana quadra trak chromoly 29 spline44 axels an wheres the best buy
Great walk through... done this on many vehicles myself and I couldn't have done it better. Off topic what rotors are you running, stillen? Any who I'm 99wj01tj on jeep forum. And to Edgar if its not the bearing making g the sound it may be u joint on the driveshaft. When they go bad they him too.
Great video...
Very good video, and great explanation. How did you clean the inside if the axel shaft? Also, did you have any difficulty with the wonky stud plate that came with your kit? Did they supply the fasteners?
I have same press guess im ready.
great video..thanks
Anyone can help? First time i changed It was leaking but bearings were ok, It lasted for a week, thought maybe i put something wrong or the part was not good. So i did It again lasted for 5 months and now again leaking the same wheel, bearings are ok though its always the seal?
Axle is worn, replace axle. Seal lip wore a groove in axle preventing new seals from retaining gear oil.
Good except shaking camera. Thanks for sharing.
i have to do this, but I'm scared to use a cutting wheel.
whats the torque for the 4 bolts on bracket
my 2002 laredo 4.7 ho has bad seals in the right rear, im gonna replace it mysepf but i have a few questions, what bearing grease did you use, and how do i find out what gear oil to use? also im getting some move to the left (rear end shifts left) when accelerating, and back to the right when i let off the gas, much more noticable at highway speeds, have i blow my diff? how do i know if i have a limited slip diff? and if the not a blow rear ens could it be a bad control arm or somwthing of thay nature, thanks to anyway who can respond and help
it has 82k and is in really good shape otherwise so i def wanna fix it
I used carquest premium high temp bearing grease. Many have said that you don't even need the grease (the bearing is lubed by the gear oil).
John Aranjo I'm not sure about the shift.
John Aranjo mine shifts slightly as well when accelerating and decelerating, almost feels like its steering slightly from the rear. I crawled under my WJ and found one of the side bushings on the upper Y link severely worn and believe that's my issue. Crawl under yours and grab every link with a bushing/ball joint and try to see if it moves any. There should be nearly no movement by hand.
Don't happen to remember any part numbers?
Does anyone know what gear ratio is on a 99 grandcherokee Laredo 4x4 4.0. Is? No tags on rear
I have to do the same work on my Liberty 2004 in the rear end. Anyone has done it for a liberty?? Is it the same process? Do you always need to cut the bearing to get it out???
Thanks in advance
What about the outer race that's stuck in the axle?
Slide hammer to pull that out and install it.
can I remove my axle shaft without removing the retainer and seal?
Nope. They all come out at the same time.
What If it wont go back in all the way like an inch
How do you know when its properly pressed. Does anyone know how far the bearings should be in the axl
It will bottom out.
When you put the axle back in did you have to press or use the sliding hammer to push the bearing back into the housing? I can't imagine the bearing retainer is used to pull it back into the housing? Thanks.
rmontez No, the completed axle just slides right in. Once it is almost all the way in, you may have to jiggle it or rotate it slightly so the splines at the end of the axle line up (but it should not take any significant force to push it back in).