Why not flux inside, lat the solder wire on the seam and heat from the outside ??? No chance to burn the flux and the solder will flow nice to the heat source ...
We always put the seam on bottom. Just slightly flat. Slide it off the edge a little at a time. heat from the outside. Apply solder on the inside and let the heat pull it into the seam.
I done the same thing on my still I had a leak so I had a brass plate over and I had to do the same thing except I was sodaring brass to copper works good but has to be very clean
you know they make a tool its a 2"x2"steel cube on one side the 4 sides come to a point and you use this to apply the heat to the steel and the steel to the copper and solder. this way you dont over heat then under heat etc. good lucky it only has to work !! thumps up
Although it may, we don't have an issue with leaks there. The additional time it takes to do that seem only makes the production line slower. In order to offer customers the lowest price all copper stills on the market, time has taught us the most efficient and effective way to build our equipment. Really appreciate the info however and love feedback that we can implement.
Why not use copper rivets prior to soldering? Makes it much easier (in my experience) and you only need to lay a minimal amount of solder in the joint after. This isn't a knock at all, I am mainly just curious. Love the bead rolling.
We do use them on larger stills. Its just not needed with the amount of pressure smaller home brew stills produce. Rivets ad more cost, and time for the builder as well. We take pride in being the best value in the Country with regards to not only price but functionality. We offer upgrades throughout the build process to the end user like copper thickness, EZ Clamp®, and riveting when called for. Thanks for the inquiry and hope you will spread the word about our products.
you are the first one ive seen mentioned Rivets .. they make rivet burrs soft copper for tack work with a copper washer that work great . we use to take a 4x4 sheet of copper find center cut a circle then take ply wood make a circle 1 inch shy and pound out a 1 inch lip and rivet burr it about two inched around the bottom of the pot and then run soder . or braze with copper wire and flux you have to scuff the shit out of it but it works
He could do a nicer job, but there is a way to add advice without sounding like a dick. My tip would be the solder will flow to the flame tip and suck it under the seam. Could be stronger and look a lot better. 22$ a pound for Silverbrite I'd have a 1/8" showing and 2" under that seam. Practice makes perfect. But, I applaud this guy for doing it and not talking about it.
They stay mostly at our TIG welding tables. These DIY videos are meant for the DIY'ers and we don't want them to think you need a bunch of extra tools to build these, trust me those small clamps do just fine. But yes I agree with you, spend $50 on some long handle clamps and it can be easier.
I enjoy watching these Boys . Now to me But who Am I !! A locking seam to me would make a better seam and laying the seam about 10 oclock when you lay that solder to that seam it will flow very nicely into the Joint . And using a 14 ga or even a 20ga bottom would be better for Heat But again who am I everyone has their own way of doing things .
Looking at about 2:25 in the video. Could he have spot tacked a few places down thru there in order too keep the gap tight win he does the full cover pass?
Looking at about 2:25 in the video. Could he have spot tacked a few places down thru there in order too keep the gap tight win he does the full cover pass?
Several reasons.. Speed, efficiency, cost, mass production and since our systems only run less than 10 psi, strength is a no real concern when soldered correctly.
Well sir, when its your responsibilty to answer to customers as to why they develop leaks, we found it prudent to overcompensate rather then try and save a few dollars on solder. I do agree with your statement however, if you see our builds currently, you can barely even see the soldered joints.
Yeah I know guess he did not think of angeling the seam at 10:30 to allow the flow .run into the seam .. along as it holds the main think and dont leak .. sloppy workman ship shows lack of experience .. Cutting the kid some slack heil grow outta it ..
To jest zaprzeczenie tego, jak powinno się lutować😐Im więcej lutu, tym spoina słabsza. Do tego wygląda to na cynę z ołowiem, cyna bezołowiowa tak łatwo się nie topi, więc nie nadaje się do celów spożywczych. Lutowanie powinno odbywać się na zakładkę zagniecioną, tym bardziej dno. Od wewnętrznej strony zakładka również powinna być zalutowana w przeciwnym razie, będzie zbierał się tam brud, patyna, bakterie. O estetyce nie wspomnę...
Why not flux inside, lat the solder wire on the seam and heat from the outside ??? No chance to burn the flux and the solder will flow nice to the heat source ...
We always put the seam on bottom. Just slightly flat. Slide it off the edge a little at a time. heat from the outside. Apply solder on the inside and let the heat pull it into the seam.
Got any suggestions on how to make 20inch around vapor cone??? You have really great videos.thankx much
I am glad u done that with the wet tall I can use that on mine
Towel
I done the same thing on my still I had a leak so I had a brass plate over and I had to do the same thing except I was sodaring brass to copper works good but has to be very clean
Got a sheet metal cut plan pls? I can try roll my own
you know they make a tool its a 2"x2"steel cube on one side the 4 sides come to a point and you use this to apply the heat to the steel and the steel to the copper and solder. this way you dont over heat then under heat etc. good lucky it only has to work !! thumps up
dont know why he didnt do a locking seam .stronger .
something like that I would be using copper RivetBurrs
Try putting some copper rivets along that seemed and you won't have to use 35 lb of solder
I would like to get the kit but we're do you get it
How much is your kit And how long of wait time
What if you stoped the corregation a bit befor the end, and putting a pittsburghe seam there? Would that not be more water tight?
You also would not need the clamps
Although it may, we don't have an issue with leaks there. The additional time it takes to do that seem only makes the production line slower. In order to offer customers the lowest price all copper stills on the market, time has taught us the most efficient and effective way to build our equipment.
Really appreciate the info however and love feedback that we can implement.
where do u get this kit?
TwIzTiD Marc www.vstills.com
Why not use copper rivets prior to soldering? Makes it much easier (in my experience) and you only need to lay a minimal amount of solder in the joint after. This isn't a knock at all, I am mainly just curious. Love the bead rolling.
We do use them on larger stills. Its just not needed with the amount of pressure smaller home brew stills produce. Rivets ad more cost, and time for the builder as well. We take pride in being the best value in the Country with regards to not only price but functionality. We offer upgrades throughout the build process to the end user like copper thickness, EZ Clamp®, and riveting when called for. Thanks for the inquiry and hope you will spread the word about our products.
you are the first one ive seen mentioned Rivets .. they make rivet burrs soft copper for tack work with a copper washer that work great . we use to take a 4x4 sheet of copper find center cut a circle then take ply wood make a circle 1 inch shy and pound out a 1 inch lip and rivet burr it about two inched around the bottom of the pot
and then run soder . or braze with copper wire and flux you have to scuff the shit out of it but it works
@@LUCKYB. what do you mean a rivet burr? You are talking about making a lip for the kettle body to sit down in? thanks ..
@@jessejames9155 its a tight fitting washer
He could do a nicer job, but there is a way to add advice without sounding like a dick.
My tip would be the solder will flow to the flame tip and suck it under the seam. Could be stronger and look a lot better. 22$ a pound for Silverbrite I'd have a 1/8" showing and 2" under that seam. Practice makes perfect. But, I applaud this guy for doing it and not talking about it.
You're not using enough long sheet metal clamps Boss
They stay mostly at our TIG welding tables. These DIY videos are meant for the DIY'ers and we don't want them to think you need a bunch of extra tools to build these, trust me those small clamps do just fine. But yes I agree with you, spend $50 on some long handle clamps and it can be easier.
I enjoy watching these Boys . Now to me But who Am I !!
A locking seam to me would make a better seam and laying the seam about 10 oclock when you lay that solder to that seam it will flow very nicely into the Joint . And using a 14 ga or even a 20ga bottom would be better for Heat But again who am I everyone has their own way of doing things .
Looking at about 2:25 in the video. Could he have spot tacked a few places down thru there in order too keep the gap tight win he does the full cover pass?
Looking at about 2:25 in the video. Could he have spot tacked a few places down thru there in order too keep the gap tight win he does the full cover pass?
How much is the kit? Do you ship to Canada?
Around $500 built for the kit and yes we ship to Canada
@@vengeancestills It is just too bad that shipping costs as much as the kit
Why are u trying to use solder like welding? U could just use copper rods and be done with it.a lot stronger
Several reasons.. Speed, efficiency, cost, mass production and since our systems only run less than 10 psi, strength is a no real concern when soldered correctly.
How do you order the kit and how much?
Paul Kirkland, we have both built and self build kits on our website.
WWW.VSTILLS.COM
Our 20 gallon self build kit which includes the condenser worm is only $329. Helluva deal
I'd like to have my hands on that much copper laying around I'd have copper sides on my still instead of white oak lol
Can I get a 50 gallon kit. What the heck. Can I buy a 50 gallon already made?
Off course Gary, call us at 678-208-3161 and we'll get started right away
Buy it lol .
cant get in the homepage..
www.vstills.com
his torch is too close to the the copper, if he'd back off a couple inches it would heat up without overheating.
Why apply solder 2 inches from the seam?? Solder is 50 bucks a roll, save it!
Well sir, when its your responsibilty to answer to customers as to why they develop leaks, we found it prudent to overcompensate rather then try and save a few dollars on solder. I do agree with your statement however, if you see our builds currently, you can barely even see the soldered joints.
Wow bud. Thats a lot of solder to clean up. Way too much.
My old man would of hit the roof with that much laid down on the inside ,
Yeah I know guess he did not think of angeling the seam at 10:30 to allow the flow .run into the seam .. along as it holds the main think and dont leak .. sloppy workman ship shows lack of experience ..
Cutting the kid some slack heil grow outta it ..
22$ a pound for Silverbrite Solder. When I was an apprentice I'd hear about that bead all day. Then again we used lead 60/40 then.
To jest zaprzeczenie tego, jak powinno się lutować😐Im więcej lutu, tym spoina słabsza. Do tego wygląda to na cynę z ołowiem, cyna bezołowiowa tak łatwo się nie topi, więc nie nadaje się do celów spożywczych.
Lutowanie powinno odbywać się na zakładkę zagniecioną, tym bardziej dno. Od wewnętrznej strony zakładka również powinna być zalutowana w przeciwnym razie, będzie zbierał się tam brud, patyna, bakterie. O estetyce nie wspomnę...