Mk1 Volkswagen Engine mounts, tips and advice
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Just me talking about the longevity, removal and installation of Rabbit, Caddy, Cabby, Golf, Jetta, Scirocco engine mounts
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Awesome stuff man, I keep having my front one fall apart, it starts cracking because it doesn't seem exactly parallel, the engine tries to pull on it and idk if its a defect or the engine isn't sitting right.
A front polyurethane will help
@@seanobrienrdt9655 Where do you get them?
Thank you for the video!
Very clear and concise. I have a ‘91 cabriolet with a cracked/torn front mount. I have been torn between ordering the original mount or a harder durometer rubber one and this video cleared up the confusion.
I appreciate the comment brother. It's the only reason I do these videos. I hope my opinion works for you. I'm 46 now and the rabbits I had when I was in my 20's had harder mounts for "performance" and now I like as quiet and smooth a ride as I can. So my opinion has definitely evolved and the advice I give tends to change depending on the usage and goals of the owner. Cheers!
Techtonics tuning has really nice mounts. You can get a full set for around 100 to 130 depending which set you choose
Thanks Nigel, that answered a ton of questions I had. 🤗
That is great to hear, I just hope that they are the correct answers! Thank you for watching and commenting, Cheers!
Thanks nigel
Great Video! Thank You!
Hey man, I noticed your alternator positioning, what bracket is that? I’d like to ditch my AC compressor and place the alternator right where yours is.
It is the stock mounts and mounting location for non AC JH and RD 1.8L engines, I am not sure of the part numbers. You really need a donor car to get all the parts affordably. In Canada it is rare to see a Mk1 with AC. Cheers!
I stopped by hoping this was a video showing how to remove the passenger side engine mount. I read through the .pdf on cabby-info and it seems not to be written in the easiest way to do the job. Do you have to remove the timing belt like they say? I like your advice to loosen all of the mounts in order to get the passenger side out.
I have been able to remove the Passenger side Mount bracket without removing the timing belt. If I remember correctly you will have to fuss with the alternator bracket and the various bits of stamped sheet metal that shroud the timing belt. There are 4 bolts holding on the Passenger side engine mount bracket 2 - 13 mm head M8 and 2 - 6mm allen socket, a ball end allen key set will help here significantly. I hope that helps, it always becomes more apparent once you dig in and abstract discussion becomes tangible, hope that helps!
@@nigel-Rollercam-channel thanks! I'll probably do the timing belt at the same time, because why not. But the write-ups I've read so far seemed excessive. But I won't know until I get in there myself to see if there's any room for revision or different techniques.
Hi Nigel
I tried the DIY for the right hand mount... It is a challenge for me because I know nothing about timing belts. And when I tried to remove the bracket I realised I had to go through the timing belt. The alternator casing is blocking me as well. I thought it is only the Bracket bolts I have to get out.
2. How do I DIY removing the old mount and insertimg the new one with limited tools?
Hi, Molefi, this might be more of a challenge than is feasible to complete with limited tools, If you have a hachsaw as well as a fairly large and decent quality bench vice then you can attempt to continue. Without those tools I would abort your replacement of the right side engine mount. The Timing belt can remain in place but remove the battery ground as you will need to remove the alternator and a bracket or two plus some of the sheet metal that shrouds the Tbelt. As for pressing the new mount in that would be what the vice is used for, which will need to be mounted to a solid surface. I may have to do a seperate video on this. The hack saw will need to be disassembled and then reassembled through the mount in order to cut the old mount sleeve out of the cylinder that retains it to the block. You can try the solid BFI mount for the drivers side but they seem to dramatically increase engine vibration transmitted to the interior, they can be pressed in significantly easier than stock. I hope that helps but I'm concerned that you my have bitten off abit for than is feasible for your current experience level and familiarity with the MK1. I do wish you success brother and I apologize if I have led you down a difficult path here, Cheers Nigel
@@nigel-Rollercam-channel I will just have to take it to the spares and they have a press which they ridiculously charge for its use.
However your video gave me an idea of what is needed to be fixed.
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for= $100> techtonics tuning heavy duty mounts are very good; and they last
Hey! I have a 89 cabby and I wanted to know where I can search for the upper transmission mount? If I'm not mistaken it has a metal bar attached but the ones online do not, little help?
The metal bracket is a separate and the mount will need to be pressed in. I rarely replace these as the bulk of the weight and torque stress is handled by the right side engine mount and the 2 mounts front and rear. This may be helpful cabby-info.com/Files/EngineMounts.pdf
These are the parts numbers the letter is the supersession or revision of the mount and is not as critical as the 9 digit part number 171199214C, 171199214D, 171199214H.
Alternatively you may be able to find the bracket and mount assembly on ebay or other online used car parts retailers second hand. HTH, Cheers!
I just got a 79 mk 1 golf. The mount completely fell apart and had to change it. However the car is swinging but not starting. How the hell. I changed the fuel pump and coil pack. Checked for spark which I'm getting but I'm not getting ignition. Any suggestions
Ignition switch, fuel filter, fuel tank to pump hose, rust in the tank. Rust is common on the fuel filler neck which often rusts through at the top from the spray of any water or road debris off the right rear tire. It is hard to spot without removing the filler neck. I was unable to determine which mount failed from the post. I also do not know if you have CIS or carb. There are quite a few different specifications of the Golf/Rabbit in the world market most of my experience is with Canadian and American market Mk1s. Cheers
Thanks for uploading. In wich order would u recommend to change them.
The passenger side or right side engine mount bolted to the timing belt side of the engine seems to be one of the most important for vibration. The rear transmission mount and front engine mount which affect torque from acceleration and deceleration are the next most important in my opinion. The fourth and final mount on the transmission under the battery tray being the least important from my experience, but also contributing to NVH if allowed to fail.
Cheers!
Thanks for replying man. I'll do mine in about 2weeks. Take care.
Any questions please check in, Hopefully I haven't sabotaged you in any way with my advice!
Cheers
So how many mounts tottal?
4 mounts in total
I thought this was how to ?