Hello friend, you lucky man tea and cake whilst giving us your exellent knowledge of beekeeping. Thank you for sharing your vlog with us. Already caught two swarms in my swarm trap boxes up here in Liverpool first swarm went straight into a ten frame langstroth and are building new cone and bringing plenty of pollen and nectar the second swarm a lot smaller went into a five frame nuc both doing well with this nice April weather we are having at the moment.
Chris. Very good of you to take the time to make this video, really appreciated. I must admit that I used to be somewhat lax about swarm control but will make every effort this year to conduct a more proactive management, I am sure the video will give others the confidence to do the same. Thanks again. Peter
Excellent. Very helpful etc.etc. Love the cake thing too. Wish I were able to join you in that bit. One teensy issue - when you feed the artificially swarmed bees, you say give them a pound of sugar to a pint of water - OK, I'm british too, so I know a pint of water is 20 Oz, but to Americans that is, the majority of your audience, a pint is 16 Oz, not 20Oz. Maybe not a significant issue, but there, you have it. More importantly,, how much to feed. Are you suggesting a single pound of sugar per deep hive body, or is that just the degree of concentration? Obviously, it must depend on how light the hive body is, together with the weather forecast etc. Also - this is a pet peeve of mine - I encourage makers of bee-keeping TH-cam videos, to make it super clear, where they are and what the date is. We both know that your from the south west of England, but so many videos give advise that does not apply to people in a very different climatic region. I'm a second year bee keeper - having caught my first swarm last April - here in the Charente region of western France. Much of the advise found on line refers to small hive beetles (that I don't think we have here). On the other hand, last autumn, I found out about the absolute menace of the Asian hornet, and how to protect hives here from their predation. This will become a big thing in the UK too in a year or two, so get ready. Thanks again, and have a second slice of Lemon curd cake. You deserve it. Michael Moore
Thanks again Chris (working my way through your videos ). Is there a video or could you do one to explain the seasons . When to do things and most importantly when not to do things . just about to start out so I’m digging at all resources before I start
Just one question. What do you do with the honey super? Do you move it with the old brood box? Which of the two hives will have enough worker bees to continue to produce honey? So far I have always made splits befor they produce swarm cells, or just destroyed swarm cells. But I might try this option.
The super goes with the “swarm” as they need to draw out new cells. If you make the split before they want to swarm you will force them to make a new queen before they are ready & you will often get a “scratch” queen or lower quality one. I prefer to just help them do what comes naturally & so keep stress to a minimum
Where did you get those Artificial Bees ? 😉 I guess these frames with photographed bees are a teaching Aid. Useful for Clubs etc. Have you a Supplier contact or website for these ? Thanks. 🤗 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
That one belongs to our local beekeeping society. I think it originally came from the British Beekeepers Association but I couldn’t find it on their site just now so I may be wrong.
Hi Chris. Just to confirm, supers stay with original hive (in new position) yes? Also, with two frames (in your example) with QC on, can this then be used to produce a nuc or would it be risky with the reduced number of bees left? Thanks
Thanks - I would not move it until the new queen is laying really well and there is some sealed brood. You will also need to remember the three feet or three miles rule when you move it otherwise the older flying bees will come back to the original hive. I hope this helps.
@@cotswoldbees Final question I promise - I would like to site my second hive approx 60 feet away from the original. Would it not be a good time to do this having just done the artificial swarm so that the older flying bees go back to the new brood box with the queen in the original position. This would then leave the nurse bees to reorientate themselves to the new location as they evolve and become the flying bees - or am I missing something?
No problem with all the questions. It’s great. You could do as you suggest. You would need to do the artificial swarm and then once the flying bees had gone back to the original hive position move the hive. The only problems are that you run the risk of a cast. also if the new queen fails to mate or gets in with some bad lads and is aggressive then putting the hives back together will be difficult. I hope this helps.
I wanted to ask about the second move of the original hive, so that the second load of flying bees join the new artificial swarm colony. Why not move an additional frame of capped brood to the artificial swarm, rather than the second move? Would that not accomplish the same thing, with boosting bee numbers in the new artificial swarm?
The idea is to pursued them not to throw a cast (second small swarm) and so it is best to bleed off older bees who would be the ones who would leave with the new virgin queen.
Hi Chris, I am impressed with your style and the quality of your video. However, I totally disagree with the statement you made about the profile of a natural swarm. Research has shown that the prime swarm consists of the old queen and mostly young bees, not old bees. To be more specific, 70% of a swarm are 10 days and under. The remaining 30% are scout bees and maybe a couple of confused drones. Why would the swarm leave with with a load of old bees which have atrophied wax and hyperpharangeal glands? The swarm needs to be able to establish a new nest and so needs bees able to make wax (age for this activity is around 8 to 12 days). They need to have some life ahead of them because it will take a while for new bees to be replace them. Also, old bees are not attracted to the queen. I know that old bees can go back and become nurse and wax builders, but its all a lot of effort to do this. Read Tom Seeley (Honey bee Democracy) who has studied swarms, swarming and feral colonies for more than 40 years. There are better ways to perform a more natural split. The Pagden method does work, but isn't empathetic to what the bees would be doing naturally. Clare Densley.
Hello Clare. Thank you for your comments. I am always willing to learn. My understanding has always been that the majority of the swarm is older bees and I have never had a problem with wax production or brood rearing using the Pagden Method but your comments have got me thinking. Would you be so kind as to let me have details of the research that you quote as I would love to read it. Also, it is some years since I read Tom Seeley’s book and I have just checked my copy but on a quick glance I can’t see where he mentions the age of bees in a swarm. To save me searching would you let me know the page numbers please. Finally, I am intrigued as to what method you use to perform a more natural split or are you just referring to standard hive splitting? Thanks. All the best. Chris
If you go to the website under About and the Recipes you will find one for Whole Clementine Cake. Make it as per the recipe but use blood orange instead of clementine then slice in half and put lemon curd in the middle. If you want the recipe for the lemon curd let me know and I will ask Carol and we will put it up on the website.
You've completely lost me! I need to start over. I can usually follow you very well. You are an excellent teacher. But on this subject I'm just not grasping the main idea. And then everything that follows.
Sorry to hear that. A swarm is the old queen with approximately half the bees. It separates itself from the brood, queen cells and the nurse bees when it swarms. An artificial swarm puts the flying bees plus the old queen in a new box leaving the queen cells and the nurse bees and brood in the old box.
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Super video as ever Chris. Nicely delivered…..Thank you
Hello friend, you lucky man tea and cake whilst giving us your exellent knowledge of beekeeping. Thank you for sharing your vlog with us. Already caught two swarms in my swarm trap boxes up here in Liverpool first swarm went straight into a ten frame langstroth and are building new cone and bringing plenty of pollen and nectar the second swarm a lot smaller went into a five frame nuc both doing well with this nice April weather we are having at the moment.
Brilliant. I’m glad you like the videos. All you need now is the tea & cake.
Chris. Very good of you to take the time to make this video, really appreciated. I must admit that I used to be somewhat lax about swarm control but will make every effort this year to conduct a more proactive management, I am sure the video will give others the confidence to do the same. Thanks again. Peter
Thank you Peter. Any other suggestions are always welcome. I am glad you enjoyed the video.
Brilliant informative video.
So glad you enjoyed it.
Fantastic video, very helpful and easy to follow. So glad I’ve found your you tube link.
That’s really kind. So glad you are enjoying the videos. Stay tuned there’s lots more on the way.
Excellent. Very helpful etc.etc. Love the cake thing too. Wish I were able to join you in that bit.
One teensy issue - when you feed the artificially swarmed bees, you say give them a pound of sugar to a pint of water - OK, I'm british too, so I know a pint of water is 20 Oz, but to Americans that is, the majority of your audience, a pint is 16 Oz, not 20Oz. Maybe not a significant issue, but there, you have it.
More importantly,, how much to feed. Are you suggesting a single pound of sugar per deep hive body, or is that just the degree of concentration? Obviously, it must depend on how light the hive body is, together with the weather forecast etc.
Also - this is a pet peeve of mine - I encourage makers of bee-keeping TH-cam videos, to make it super clear, where they are and what the date is. We both know that your from the south west of England, but so many videos give advise that does not apply to people in a very different climatic region. I'm a second year bee keeper - having caught my first swarm last April - here in the Charente region of western France. Much of the advise found on line refers to small hive beetles (that I don't think we have here). On the other hand, last autumn, I found out about the absolute menace of the Asian hornet, and how to protect hives here from their predation. This will become a big thing in the UK too in a year or two, so get ready.
Thanks again, and have a second slice of Lemon curd cake. You deserve it.
Michael Moore
Very easy to follow, many thanks.
Another great video thanks for sharing :)
Superb!
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Thanks again Chris (working my way through your videos ).
Is there a video or could you do one to explain the seasons . When to do things and most importantly when not to do things .
just about to start out so I’m digging at all resources before I start
Nice idea. I will look into doing one.
Just one question. What do you do with the honey super? Do you move it with the old brood box? Which of the two hives will have enough worker bees to continue to produce honey? So far I have always made splits befor they produce swarm cells, or just destroyed swarm cells. But I might try this option.
The super goes with the “swarm” as they need to draw out new cells. If you make the split before they want to swarm you will force them to make a new queen before they are ready & you will often get a “scratch” queen or lower quality one. I prefer to just help them do what comes naturally & so keep stress to a minimum
Where did you get those Artificial Bees ? 😉 I guess these frames with photographed bees are a teaching Aid. Useful for Clubs etc. Have you a Supplier contact or website for these ? Thanks. 🤗
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
That one belongs to our local beekeeping society. I think it originally came from the British Beekeepers Association but I couldn’t find it on their site just now so I may be wrong.
Hi Chris. Just to confirm, supers stay with original hive (in new position) yes? Also, with two frames (in your example) with QC on, can this then be used to produce a nuc or would it be risky with the reduced number of bees left? Thanks
Any supers go with the swarm so yes the original in the new position. You can make up a nuc as well or instead & I will do a video in the summer.
Great video. Very useful. Just wanted to ask - when is the best time to resite the second hive if you don't want it next to the original hive?
Thanks - I would not move it until the new queen is laying really well and there is some sealed brood. You will also need to remember the three feet or three miles rule when you move it otherwise the older flying bees will come back to the original hive. I hope this helps.
@@cotswoldbees Final question I promise - I would like to site my second hive approx 60 feet away from the original. Would it not be a good time to do this having just done the artificial swarm so that the older flying bees go back to the new brood box with the queen in the original position. This would then leave the nurse bees to reorientate themselves to the new location as they evolve and become the flying bees - or am I missing something?
No problem with all the questions. It’s great. You could do as you suggest. You would need to do the artificial swarm and then once the flying bees had gone back to the original hive position move the hive. The only problems are that you run the risk of a cast. also if the new queen fails to mate or gets in with some bad lads and is aggressive then putting the hives back together will be difficult. I hope this helps.
You leave two queen cells after the first queen has hatched.what happens the remaining queen cell..? Thks
Assuming the first queen out is a good one then she will kill the other one.
I wanted to ask about the second move of the original hive, so that the second load of flying bees join the new artificial swarm colony. Why not move an additional frame of capped brood to the artificial swarm, rather than the second move? Would that not accomplish the same thing, with boosting bee numbers in the new artificial swarm?
The idea is to pursued them not to throw a cast (second small swarm) and so it is best to bleed off older bees who would be the ones who would leave with the new virgin queen.
Hi Chris, I am impressed with your style and the quality of your video. However, I totally disagree with the statement you made about the profile of a natural swarm. Research has shown that the prime swarm consists of the old queen and mostly young bees, not old bees. To be more specific, 70% of a swarm are 10 days and under. The remaining 30% are scout bees and maybe a couple of confused drones. Why would the swarm leave with with a load of old bees which have atrophied wax and hyperpharangeal glands? The swarm needs to be able to establish a new nest and so needs bees able to make wax (age for this activity is around 8 to 12 days). They need to have some life ahead of them because it will take a while for new bees to be replace them. Also, old bees are not attracted to the queen. I know that old bees can go back and become nurse and wax builders, but its all a lot of effort to do this. Read Tom Seeley (Honey bee Democracy) who has studied swarms, swarming and feral colonies for more than 40 years.
There are better ways to perform a more natural split. The Pagden method does work, but isn't empathetic to what the bees would be doing naturally.
Clare Densley.
Hello Clare. Thank you for your comments. I am always willing to learn. My understanding has always been that the majority of the swarm is older bees and I have never had a problem with wax production or brood rearing using the Pagden Method but your comments have got me thinking. Would you be so kind as to let me have details of the research that you quote as I would love to read it. Also, it is some years since I read Tom Seeley’s book and I have just checked my copy but on a quick glance I can’t see where he mentions the age of bees in a swarm. To save me searching would you let me know the page numbers please. Finally, I am intrigued as to what method you use to perform a more natural split or are you just referring to standard hive splitting? Thanks. All the best. Chris
Recipe???
If you go to the website under About and the Recipes you will find one for Whole Clementine Cake. Make it as per the recipe but use blood orange instead of clementine then slice in half and put lemon curd in the middle. If you want the recipe for the lemon curd let me know and I will ask Carol and we will put it up on the website.
You've completely lost me! I need to start over. I can usually follow you very well. You are an excellent teacher. But on this subject I'm just not grasping the main idea. And then everything that follows.
Sorry to hear that. A swarm is the old queen with approximately half the bees. It separates itself from the brood, queen cells and the nurse bees when it swarms. An artificial swarm puts the flying bees plus the old queen in a new box leaving the queen cells and the nurse bees and brood in the old box.