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the frame looks rusty already.. I was a quality control supervisor at an oil platform factory. They use sandblasting for pretty much everything that needs to be coated. I wouldn´t even let them get near the sandblaster if the relative humidity was above certain level let alone get the sandblasted metal get wet or even be touched with bare hands. Sure, a car frame is not going to explode if some rust gets trapped but... I wonder how did you remove the rust before coating the frame?
Yo. I know you know about eastwood products. I had rust on my 2006 Chevy Van's roof (like they all get) and used an SCT from eastwood. it's short for Surface Conditioning Tool. It's hard to say whether sandblasting would've been faster or slower ... but in your face for the under-side, I think it's by far the best product with the abrasive wheel they recommended for me. I think the abrasive was either 80 or 120 grit. Which I then used with their epoxy primer which did a pretty good job.
I'm mad at Peter tbh. They had a great thing going and he fucked up. I liked seeing him on the channel. It's too bad some people just can't keep it together. Oh well.
@ GldRush98, check out Steve Summers channel. He has recently done the same thing for blasting parts on his 80's Chevy Square body rebuild. A real nice guy( I visited his shop and met him while on holiday in the states from the UK back in March)
It Happens... 😆 Never seen a Wet Sandblasting like that.. 👀 I have a nice Air pressured Sandblaster tank; but, it's only practical for Small areas.. it Devours Air and I Hate the Dust.
I love that any build on TH-cam I watch has a garage that looks as destroyed as mine while in project mode. You can tell who does work by how the garage looks. I really need to spend a good hour on my garage to get it in order.
I need to spend an hour psyching myself up to plan out what I would need to do to get my garage in order...ohh look, Engine Masters has a new episode....Yea, garage is not getting organized soon.
Use a tennis ball to hold the trigger on. It will pop in and out easily and if you do drop the pressure cleaner gun the ball will pop out stopping it automatically. This trick makes the job a lot less physical. Also you probably should bund around any drains to catch the sand so you can shovel it up. The sand may be natural but it will block up drains eventually. Great video.
This is why I love watching your channel. Instead of plunking down a few thousand to get it done professionally like most big TH-camrs would, you roll up your sleeves and go the DIY route which is what most of us commonfolk can afford to do.
Then he also shows good and bad of mostly purchased (not free - I'm actually ok with free products, as long as review is for us normal folks - his car budgets are creeping though - Alpinas, etc). But like your cousin was doing this , advising. Thanks!
I was always wondering if anyone has used electrolysis first to removed rust from a automotive frame. You could build forms around the frame to hold water and just let sit and let electrolysis do the the work for several days. Follow up with blasting in the video. Finally evaporust to remove in areas you could not get into with the previous two processes. You could place stones or other material that would take up space to limit the evaporust required.
Pro-tip! Try to keep the jet at 90 degrees to the surface you're blasting as a general rule. Using it at an angle diminishes the impact energy of each sand particle and therefore its power!
Heartily disagree. At least with sandblasters that I've used (particulate specifically) holding at 90 degrees will increase the impact energy but less sand will abrade because it has nowhere to go. Its easier to get a consistent finish and faster to blast at a ~45 degree angle bc the sand "skips" across the surface and away. Probably different for vapor blasting
@@jimgordon3468 as a professional sandblaster. 90° is not the perfect angle. One should start with 70° and find what distance and angle works best while completing the project. Different media acts differently to different pressures, and when water is introduced it slows the media dramatically.
Can I just say I love that you were willing to accept possibly changing course with the sanding pad upon realizing it might be of some use instead of trying to push the blasting method. That's super cool.
@@prydzen and of course it is actually removing metal whereas the sand will lift the rust scale and do little to damage the surface. Of course if you were to hold it in one position for long enough it would finally blast a hole through the chassis rail, but kept moving it would have negligible effect on the steel's thickness
I used a HF pressure sand blaster and it worked great. You need a LOT of compressor to do real sand blasting, but it's really pretty effective. I treat the metal with phosphoric acid, as many times as needed to get a good dark grey color, then clean and POR15 or paint. IDK about pressure washing with sand, it seems to have gone slower and the thing about sand is really the speed and how sharp the sand is. One quick tip is that if you clean things up so you don't have all the grease and oil, it really helps. Sand doesn't do well against grease.
A pro tip, if you have a car lift ... 2 posts lifts, like the ones you have... Use the lift to lift the bed off the frame.. then roll the frame out of the way and then you can set you bed down on the ground or rollers etc.. work smarter not harder.
Back when these trucks came out. Someone thought it would be a good idea to buy one for their kid to have as their first car. That kid almost hit my house after loosing control of the truck. Love these trucks but can’t understand why anyone would buy one for their kids, lol One of the best looking trucks the past 20 years.
It didn't take me to terribly long into my sandblasting "career" to recognize the value of an angle grinder and a wire wheel/flap disc. You can race over the large flat areas with the grinder and then just touch up with the sandblaster. I do not suggest using your finest grinder for that job. Harbor Freight corded for $15 is the perfect tool to pack full of rust dust and overheat. Drills are useless.
My friend bought 2 h. F. grinders so he didn't have to stop when he killed the first one, plus h f will swap them out if you burn it up "too fast" Chevy truck is a 3-4 grinder job
Glad you mentioned the flash rust, I was thinking that taking the frame to bare metal with water in 100 deg heat might create its own problems. Clearly much less of an issue if you can keep water out of the picture either using compressed air-fed sand or even vapor blasting but they are much less DIY friendly.
Compressed air sandblasting is WAY more messy and requires much more personal safety equipment. Dry sand comes right back at you. If you watch to professional, they have moon suits on, covering head to toe. Plus takes a pretty big compressor. My 4 hp is not big enough to run my cheap siphon feed blaster.
Cost me about 500 bucks to do it myself with a sandblaster from Harbor Freight. Worked out well. Also might help if you use a more abrasive sand. I used coal slag.
sodium bicarbonate as an abrasive media. Then raptor line it. Keep and clean all your old bottles. clean well, reuse it for rubber under coating by the gallon.
For rust removal, I like flap discs and wire wheels and twisted wire cups for grinders. You can really strip away big areas fast. And for smaller areas, they make wheels for drills and dremels too.
Thanks for the introduction to the sandblaster pressure washer attachment. I have a large wrought iron set of shelves made by my dad and his classmates back in the early 70's; it was a fundraiser thing for the school. I thought I would have to haul it to a shop with a giant blast enclosure, or maybe one with a CO2 blaster. Now I can clean it to bare metal myself before the repaint. Thanks again guys!
I literally watch pretty much ALL of the car TH-cam channels and I can 100% say that your content is the most entertaining and relatable. Please keep up the great work.
I am straight up so down for this, seeing the Lightning getting a full resto makes me very happy! Keep up the great work Alex! Can't wait to see the next one! P.S. You together with Peter & Max are a great team, love seeing you all together, you seem to have such a good dynamic!
I liked the Bernoulli principle.. where you create a vacuum due to the pressure you introduce in the hose line. Way to go, Peter.. as for you Alex, you need to put more time into reading hahahhahahaha.. thanks for the efforts you put into this channel dudes, we really enjoy every second of it, especially the comedy parts .. by that, I mean the jokes Alex throws every now and then, cheers bros.
I had a guy who owned a portable dustless sandblaster on a trailer come to my house and did my 16ft trailer for $700. He put some kind of anti flashing agent mixed in and he said that gives you 24hrs before the surface rust comes out.
I know sand is an aggressive medium, I just would not have thought "kids" play sand would be aggressive enough. Also, I have never seen water used with sand blasting before. Yet again you have educated me and probably many others. Thanks Alex.
Alex, I know you probably don't have to do this very often but investing in a set of chest high waiters, would make the job less missing!! It would Also help me wash bay!!!
Taking the term “while your in there” to a new level is right! For what it’s worth I’m thoroughly enjoying it! I had no idea a nozzle like that existed, I may have to try this….
They do make a additive they hooks up to the pressure washer soap hookup that coats it with a rust inhibitor while you blast the frame saves a ton of time. Js great job on the frame by the way ! I have blasted with over a hundred different set ups for blasting through the years and water blasting is the safest and cleanest way to blast . But doesn't work so well on heavy equipment as it doesn't get the presser to remove the industrial paints . The more you know lol thanks guys .😎👍❤️🇨🇦🇺🇲
I’m curious about this rust inhibitor addition. Is it an additive you put in the soap tank or a unit that connects where the soap tank goes? Any more info that will help me track it down? Thanks Also, any suggestions on minimum psi and flow rate needed for wet sand blasting to remove rust?
@@Tonisuperfly It is a additive that goes in the soap tank. Harbor freight has it princess Auto has it. And wet sandblasting companies have it as well. Really works awesome I think Zep even makes it as well.
@@Tonisuperfly no worries glad I could help . I have used this rust inhibitor wet sandblasting and it works very well it however doesn't last forever but it does last about three weeks till some rust starts to show itself. I paint asap but it does last three weeks outside in the elements .. js Cheer's
After the sand dries you can just sweep/shovel it up. Cool. BTW, you could probably replace the unused shop toilet with a shower. The “drain” and water is already there. I’m sure they make an all-in-one unit.
I did exactly this with an old 87 S-10... Not long after that, I had to replace all the bushings and leaf spring hardware... The squeaks drove me crazy... So that's something to look out for... That sand likes to go where you don't want it...
A strip and clean disk on a angle grinder might get better results than the driver you were using Alex. Peter is a great addition to the channel - love to see you guys working on cars together. Always better than doing it by yourself !!
5:44 That's the same reaction I got from my Grandma when I removed the bumper off of my car to do some work on the fog light housing. I responded to her saying "I'm just removing the bumper not the whole engine". Love the vids and I'm learning a lot. Though I'm not tearing up my car to the frame just yet 😂
Great video as usual!! For the underneath, try a heavy de-greaser to clean first. I like the yellow Harbor Freight stuff, and then a wire wheel to knock off any remaining scale. From there you can use rust converter and/or encapsulator from Eastman, and then take a look at Eastman's chassis black. You can spray it over anything and wears like iron. I've used their products in the past with really good results. Thanks!!
Alex disassembles whole car to bare frame "It's a DIY project". Still love to see this mad project in your garage. Unlike other youtubers (I'm looking at you Sam) Alex will finish this in timely manner and will give us all awesome content.
It would be possible to sweep up the used sand, dry it out, sift out big stuff, and use it again. Great job! Nice to see this option. What truly amazes me is that you will remember what goes back to where when it's time to put it all back together. Thanks for the demo.
Flapper discs for grinder not drill and you can get different coarseness. You will love ‘em ! Also I think there is a product you can put in the water to eliminate the immediate rust after blasting. I have purchased a 2003 HD F-150 with the same motor a little detuned and 3,000 miles on it . Like new zero rust and $32,000 Canadian !
Us Porsche guys are using CO2 blasting to literally turn a 1972 car into a 2022. There is a shop here in south Florida that does it but it is NOT cheap! Great video!
Next time you need to take a bed off by hand use a cherry picker and a 2x4 frame bolted into the bed mounts from inside the bed. You can use a similar method with a 2x4 frame bolted to the end of the cherry picker itself to pick up a cab. Just need to put a blanket on the 2x4 and bolt it together from inside. I also recently found out I can unbolt the engine, trans, and subframe from my 64 dodge 440. Then hook a chain up to the nose and tilt the car on the rear axle, up and off the drivetrain. Cherry pickers are useful for so much more than pulling engines.
You can get an corrosion inhibitor like holdtight 102 to prevent the rust at least in the short term. Coal slag like Black Beauty from TSC works great with the pressure washer. I did an iron radiator for a house with that, blew it dry with a leaf blower and painted it. Looked amazing.
If anyone is tempted to try this, remember to clean up the sand properly - 5 bags of sand getting washed into the street drain by pressure washer and subsequent rain showers will make you pretty unpopular with your neighbours next time it rains heavily... For some reason civil engineers don't think "we better size the drain assuming someone will dump 125kg of wet sand down there all at once " 😀
Yep, "Off Site Sedimentation" is also a legal problem. But you'd never get in trouble for it because they focus on big developments, not one-off violations like this. It's not "just sand," either. It's everything he's blasting off, which is an environmental problem. But hey, it's entertaining, so who cares right! Not whining, just saying facts🤷♂
I love the chapters to this whole truck saga. What started off as a basic project has now become a full on frame off restoration but a really satisfying one at that.
The way the syphon works on the pickup, i use a small ball with lots of holes (watch a video on how that pipe collector for the blaster works, you'll come up with a solution very quickly with what you have laying around. The ball lets the abrasive get collected by the syphon effect without clogging as easy. After blasting, i use phosphoric acid to convert any flash oxidisation prior to re-sealing, which i do the moment the acid has finished doing it's colour change. Very cool video thank you as always
I mean, if you're trying to take them back to bare metal with a fine textured finish, you'll be very happy. But you would need to plan a new surface finish, as the raw blasted part won't stay pretty for long.
Interesting to see this, especially since Watch JR Go recently had his S10 Extreme frame soda blasted professionally. It did look more even, but I suspect they might have applied a rust converter before returning it to avoid the appearance of the flash rust.
@Anastasia Annika prosper Yeah, My first investment with Mr owen hayden earned me profit of over $25,530 US dollars, and ever since then he has been delivering
@Anastasia Annika prosper Yeah, My first investment with Mr owen hayden earned me profit of over $25,530 US dollars, and ever since then he has been delivering
I bought one new in 1999 and just sold it last year. I didn't think it would bother me much but it does. Glad to see this one being treated as it should. Over the years I put about $18,000 in it, none of it was labor. It was worth every penny. These are amazing trucks.
I sold my 10 year old Chevy Silverado because the frame was totally covered in heavy rust, the bumpers had rusted through. All the brake and gas lines were rusted out. There was not a speck of rust or even a scratch on the body. I bought a new Ford and had it rust proofed. The truck is five years old now and the frame looks like new. Well worth the money.
Try searching for "nylon wire wheel". We powe washed the used 1 red nylon wheel to clean up my buddies 63 c10 frame, the did the por15 (metal prep, coating, top coat) turned out great. Pair these up with the sand idea would be great.
Looking forward to seeing the frame all finished. I'm guessing you'll use POR15 or Rust Encapsulator for the coating. I use POR15 a lot and more recently began using their Metal Prep zinc phosphate as the pre-coating etch. Also, a wading pool works great as a catch pan for dry sandblasting so you can reuse the media.
for a sand recovery system, I saw a guy do this years back himself and he used vizscreen (builders heavy duty plastic sheet 25' wide) under the chassis and around the side he used those portable barriers you see at public events to keep people on pavements, they link together and are about 4 foot high and held the vizscreen up with cable ties, it captured all the sand for him, a bit heath robinson and makeshift but as he said easier than having it all over his front garden and drive, it was a spitfire he was blasting and it was like new when finished, he recycled most the sand, folded up the vizscreen and took it to the tip, job done,
Just a heds up for future projects. The substrate needs to be completely clean of any oils, grease, or other petroleum product. If it's not cleaed off prior to blasting, its possible to trap contaminates in the surface, and that will cause premature coatings failure.
I have a Wet blast rig for my Stihl 130plus power washer (2000PSI) and its not a bad thing but I also use a Blast gun with Bicarb soda and a shop compressor for finer work and surface rust mainly because a quick run over with degreaser or solvent prepwash dissolves the Bi Carb so you dont get the grit issues you do with non soluble blast media. The other upside with Soda blasting is the enviro rules as the waste from the process is way easier to dispose of when you blast paint or oily parts and with rust and scale its simply a hose away proposition although i do use Sand berms to filter and protect drainage when I wash down.
I wish I woulda found this video earlier lol. I'm restoring my 1964 impala, full frame off. I already stripped and painted the frame but I did it the hard way with a drill, grinder and wire brushes. I was out in my hot shop for like 4 weekends getting as dirty as a human possibly can when I could have just pressure blasted it all. Dang lol.
I bought one of these , I haven't used it yet , my 86 F150 was out of CA , and still Has original chassis paint , I've got a 385 ci windsor , motec injected , on a tremec 5 speed , you might want to add a lid to that sand you don't want moisture in there , if the sand doesn't flow well add a very small air bleed line to fluidize the sand .Cheers good job .
Great video I have done this before. POR 15 has a product that you apply while your project is still wet and it will stop the flash rusting it is awesome.
You know , I have helped do some care off-fram restos before , and i never understood when the manufacturers are using u-shaped stampings, they always put the U facing up so it collects water. Why can't they turn it 180 degrees?
Just a thought. Build a battery pack between the frame rails. Drop in a few Tesla motors. with a cooling system, and you have a modern truck. Takes about, $25,000. Cheap F-150.
As long as you dry out the inner frame where sand got in while blasting. completely removing it, just made the outside clen, got get all the debris from inside the rails.
I have no idea what it costs but dry ice blasting is another alternative. No sand residue or dust and you can even do it indoors. Tavarish did a video on it about six months ago.
9:56 That's how a carburettor works Instead of water,imagine atmospheric pressure and the sand is your gas Pistons moving in the cylinders is your jet wash.
Ahhh! There’s something to be said for pushing dry sand thru a 1” nozzle with a 150hp diesel compressor😂. No more than an hour tops! But definitely would cost more!
Thanks for this video.. I have an older truck that I was not going to touch the frame because it does get expensive. But thanks to you i will soend the extra time & get it done 😅
I did this to a c10 frame, it worked good for a while, then just stopped feeding well. I think the nozzle wore out. But I got the frame done. When it was working well it really worked well, if these units could be improved to feed better they could be really good; particularly with a 4K psi, 4 gpm pressure washer.
When I had a go at this I got a ten gallon metal bucket and fixed a metal funnel to the bottom put feet on it and the sand only had one way to go and that was down and absolutely no feed issues 👍👍
I’ve used the products of Caprotech anti rust. Do you know that? Use the Caprotech RX5 and RX10 to protect the chassis. It needs some surface rust to work properly. I’m not sure of you can buy it in the US, but it’s worth a try to get it. Keep up the good work! Greetings from the Netherlands.
I'm not 100% clear on the head gasket connection to stripping the frame.... but i'm really getting into the sandblasting. I just hope AMSOIL sponsors with the sealant!! So cool. Keep going!! After using a sandblasting box as kid for machine parts. I always wanted to try a car or frame!! LoL..
Very cool. I am building an adventure trailer from a utility trailer, and want to blast it, etc.. with the sand flying my neighborhood would lose their marbles. Thinking of putting up a make shift booth of sorts, plastic sheeting, etc. to retain the sand in a more compact area. Thanks.
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Por-15, Metal Prep, prevents, the flash rust. Leaves metal, a zinc grey, if kept dry, till paint
the frame looks rusty already..
I was a quality control supervisor at an oil platform factory. They use sandblasting for pretty much everything that needs to be coated. I wouldn´t even let them get near the sandblaster if the relative humidity was above certain level let alone get the sandblasted metal get wet or even be touched with bare hands. Sure, a car frame is not going to explode if some rust gets trapped but...
I wonder how did you remove the rust before coating the frame?
Yo. I know you know about eastwood products. I had rust on my 2006 Chevy Van's roof (like they all get) and used an SCT from eastwood. it's short for Surface Conditioning Tool. It's hard to say whether sandblasting would've been faster or slower ... but in your face for the under-side, I think it's by far the best product with the abrasive wheel they recommended for me. I think the abrasive was either 80 or 120 grit. Which I then used with their epoxy primer which did a pretty good job.
Peter deserves more on screen time, Alex. He's a very positive introduction to the channel. He comes across as a thoroughly decent chap!
He is such a loveable guy, seems genuinely nice and knows what he is doing.. Good add to the crew..
These aged nicely
I'm mad at Peter tbh. They had a great thing going and he fucked up. I liked seeing him on the channel. It's too bad some people just can't keep it together. Oh well.
What actually happened with Peter?
I don't know how we went from head gaskets to frame off sand blasting, but I love it. I've never seen one of those DIY sandblasters before. Very cool.
@ GldRush98, check out Steve Summers channel. He has recently done the same thing for blasting parts on his 80's Chevy Square body rebuild. A real nice guy( I visited his shop and met him while on holiday in the states from the UK back in March)
It Happens... 😆
Never seen a Wet Sandblasting like that.. 👀
I have a nice Air pressured Sandblaster tank; but, it's only practical for Small areas.. it Devours Air and I Hate the Dust.
While we’re in there….
I think im gonna use that line on my wife "Honey we need head gaskets on the truck" Translation " frame off restoration"
I guess if you already have a huge air compressor, sure. But the cfm you need is way above typical household compressors, unfortunately.
I love that any build on TH-cam I watch has a garage that looks as destroyed as mine while in project mode. You can tell who does work by how the garage looks. I really need to spend a good hour on my garage to get it in order.
I need to spend a good week getting my garage in order. It is bad! lol
I need to spend an hour psyching myself up to plan out what I would need to do to get my garage in order...ohh look, Engine Masters has a new episode....Yea, garage is not getting organized soon.
garage
Use a tennis ball to hold the trigger on. It will pop in and out easily and if you do drop the pressure cleaner gun the ball will pop out stopping it automatically. This trick makes the job a lot less physical.
Also you probably should bund around any drains to catch the sand so you can shovel it up. The sand may be natural but it will block up drains eventually.
Great video.
This is why I love watching your channel. Instead of plunking down a few thousand to get it done professionally like most big TH-camrs would, you roll up your sleeves and go the DIY route which is what most of us commonfolk can afford to do.
Then he also shows good and bad of mostly purchased (not free - I'm actually ok with free products, as long as review is for us normal folks - his car budgets are creeping though - Alpinas, etc). But like your cousin was doing this , advising. Thanks!
Gotta love Peter ! He’s lots of fun . Thank goodness for him .
A needle scaler is a great tool that helps remove scale and surface rust.
I was always wondering if anyone has used electrolysis first to removed rust from a automotive frame. You could build forms around the frame to hold water and just let sit and let electrolysis do the the work for several days. Follow up with blasting in the video. Finally evaporust to remove in areas you could not get into with the previous two processes. You could place stones or other material that would take up space to limit the evaporust required.
Pro-tip! Try to keep the jet at 90 degrees to the surface you're blasting as a general rule. Using it at an angle diminishes the impact energy of each sand particle and therefore its power!
Heartily disagree. At least with sandblasters that I've used (particulate specifically) holding at 90 degrees will increase the impact energy but less sand will abrade because it has nowhere to go. Its easier to get a consistent finish and faster to blast at a ~45 degree angle bc the sand "skips" across the surface and away. Probably different for vapor blasting
Totally disagree. Your science is flawed.
90 degrees angle is the absolute perfect way to sand blast.
I like between 77° and 79° when I sand blast, not a degree over or under. You've been warned.
@@jimgordon3468 as a professional sandblaster. 90° is not the perfect angle. One should start with 70° and find what distance and angle works best while completing the project. Different media acts differently to different pressures, and when water is introduced it slows the media dramatically.
Can I just say I love that you were willing to accept possibly changing course with the sanding pad upon realizing it might be of some use instead of trying to push the blasting method. That's super cool.
that pad was scratching up the frame a lot. blasting is a lot better.
@@prydzen and of course it is actually removing metal whereas the sand will lift the rust scale and do little to damage the surface. Of course if you were to hold it in one position for long enough it would finally blast a hole through the chassis rail, but kept moving it would have negligible effect on the steel's thickness
@@samrodian919 you dont say
I used a HF pressure sand blaster and it worked great. You need a LOT of compressor to do real sand blasting, but it's really pretty effective.
I treat the metal with phosphoric acid, as many times as needed to get a good dark grey color, then clean and POR15 or paint. IDK about pressure washing with sand, it seems to have gone slower and the thing about sand is really the speed and how sharp the sand is. One quick tip is that if you clean things up so you don't have all the grease and oil, it really helps. Sand doesn't do well against grease.
A pro tip, if you have a car lift ... 2 posts lifts, like the ones you have... Use the lift to lift the bed off the frame.. then roll the frame out of the way and then you can set you bed down on the ground or rollers etc.. work smarter not harder.
Back when these trucks came out. Someone thought it would be a good idea to buy one for their kid to have as their first car. That kid almost hit my house after loosing control of the truck. Love these trucks but can’t understand why anyone would buy one for their kids, lol
One of the best looking trucks the past 20 years.
It didn't take me to terribly long into my sandblasting "career" to recognize the value of an angle grinder and a wire wheel/flap disc. You can race over the large flat areas with the grinder and then just touch up with the sandblaster. I do not suggest using your finest grinder for that job. Harbor Freight corded for $15 is the perfect tool to pack full of rust dust and overheat.
Drills are useless.
Was looking for this comment
@@jstephens1193 I live to serve. 🤣
My friend bought 2 h. F. grinders so he didn't have to stop when he killed the first one, plus h f will swap them out if you burn it up "too fast" Chevy truck is a 3-4 grinder job
@@ryurc3033 I bought triplets on sale for like $12.99/ea. 😆
Not to mention saving some of the 3,000 gallons of water (2.5 gpm * 20 hours) that goes into sandblasting the whole frame.
Glad you mentioned the flash rust, I was thinking that taking the frame to bare metal with water in 100 deg heat might create its own problems. Clearly much less of an issue if you can keep water out of the picture either using compressed air-fed sand or even vapor blasting but they are much less DIY friendly.
Compressed air sandblasting is WAY more messy and requires much more personal safety equipment. Dry sand comes right back at you. If you watch to professional, they have moon suits on, covering head to toe. Plus takes a pretty big compressor. My 4 hp is not big enough to run my cheap siphon feed blaster.
@@hotpuppy1 Absolutely ! See 2min 14 secs into this for a DIY example th-cam.com/video/-4gOVAzEvB0/w-d-xo.html
if you spray it with vinegar it stops the flash rust
I add vinegar to the water and also works good for neutralizing Playa dust in parts of desert
@@lutomson3496 how much vinegar? Could it be applied directly after spraying the water instead of mixing it with the water before spraying?
Cost me about 500 bucks to do it myself with a sandblaster from Harbor Freight. Worked out well. Also might help if you use a more abrasive sand. I used coal slag.
sodium bicarbonate as an abrasive media. Then raptor line it. Keep and clean all your old bottles. clean well, reuse it for rubber under coating by the gallon.
Salt?
@@JakeSullivanMedia Baking soda
@@JakeSullivanMedia salt is sodium chloride
@@2exiw won't remove heavy rust,
unless you turn the pressure right up
For rust removal, I like flap discs and wire wheels and twisted wire cups for grinders. You can really strip away big areas fast. And for smaller areas, they make wheels for drills and dremels too.
its eating the rust, dirt and broken wires from the wire wheel that sucks doing it that way but it def works
Thanks for the introduction to the sandblaster pressure washer attachment. I have a large wrought iron set of shelves made by my dad and his classmates back in the early 70's; it was a fundraiser thing for the school. I thought I would have to haul it to a shop with a giant blast enclosure, or maybe one with a CO2 blaster. Now I can clean it to bare metal myself before the repaint. Thanks again guys!
I literally watch pretty much ALL of the car TH-cam channels and I can 100% say that your content is the most entertaining and relatable. Please keep up the great work.
I normally repaint the underneath of my truck with Bitchumen, as it has Oil in it so it seems to last a long time without any rust issues...
I am straight up so down for this, seeing the Lightning getting a full resto makes me very happy! Keep up the great work Alex! Can't wait to see the next one! P.S. You together with Peter & Max are a great team, love seeing you all together, you seem to have such a good dynamic!
I liked the Bernoulli principle.. where you create a vacuum due to the pressure you introduce in the hose line. Way to go, Peter.. as for you Alex, you need to put more time into reading hahahhahahaha.. thanks for the efforts you put into this channel dudes, we really enjoy every second of it, especially the comedy parts .. by that, I mean the jokes Alex throws every now and then, cheers bros.
Be careful with those blue canisters in the tank they easily crack and hard to find replacements
I had a guy who owned a portable dustless sandblaster on a trailer come to my house and did my 16ft trailer for $700. He put some kind of anti flashing agent mixed in and he said that gives you 24hrs before the surface rust comes out.
I know sand is an aggressive medium, I just would not have thought "kids" play sand would be aggressive enough. Also, I have never seen water used with sand blasting before. Yet again you have educated me and probably many others. Thanks Alex.
Alex, I know you probably don't have to do this very often but investing in a set of chest high waiters, would make the job less missing!! It would Also help me wash bay!!!
90 seconds in and can attest, Peter is a beast. Get that man a sammich!!!!
Taking the term “while your in there” to a new level is right! For what it’s worth I’m thoroughly enjoying it! I had no idea a nozzle like that existed, I may have to try this….
They do make a additive they hooks up to the pressure washer soap hookup that coats it with a rust inhibitor while you blast the frame saves a ton of time. Js great job on the frame by the way ! I have blasted with over a hundred different set ups for blasting through the years and water blasting is the safest and cleanest way to blast . But doesn't work so well on heavy equipment as it doesn't get the presser to remove the industrial paints . The more you know lol thanks guys .😎👍❤️🇨🇦🇺🇲
I’m curious about this rust inhibitor addition. Is it an additive you put in the soap tank or a unit that connects where the soap tank goes? Any more info that will help me track it down? Thanks
Also, any suggestions on minimum psi and flow rate needed for wet sand blasting to remove rust?
@@Tonisuperfly It is a additive that goes in the soap tank. Harbor freight has it princess Auto has it. And wet sandblasting companies have it as well. Really works awesome I think Zep even makes it as well.
@@Tonisuperfly this is a link to it.above
@@k.g.kennedy9471 thanks, I can’t see a link and I’m in New Zealand so we don’t have any of those companies here. I might ask around though. Thanks :)
@@Tonisuperfly no worries glad I could help . I have used this rust inhibitor wet sandblasting and it works very well it however doesn't last forever but it does last about three weeks till some rust starts to show itself. I paint asap but it does last three weeks outside in the elements .. js Cheer's
After the sand dries you can just sweep/shovel it up. Cool.
BTW, you could probably replace the unused shop toilet with a shower. The “drain” and water is already there. I’m sure they make an all-in-one unit.
This is more effective than I really expected.
By the way, the bernoulli effect is the same thing that makes carbuerators work
Yea likes the Bermuda Triangle...
I did exactly this with an old 87 S-10... Not long after that, I had to replace all the bushings and leaf spring hardware... The squeaks drove me crazy... So that's something to look out for... That sand likes to go where you don't want it...
A strip and clean disk on a angle grinder might get better results than the driver you were using Alex.
Peter is a great addition to the channel - love to see you guys working on cars together. Always better than doing it by yourself !!
Search for " Dustless Blasting Rust Inhibitor" if your pressure washer has a chemical draw tank you can use it and keep away the flash rust.
Using dry ice would've been nice to see...so satisfying. Excited to see what this looks like when you're done.
Dry ice doesn't remove rust well. That's used more for sound deadening removal. Dry ice and rubbing alcohol.
5:44
That's the same reaction I got from my Grandma when I removed the bumper off of my car to do some work on the fog light housing. I responded to her saying "I'm just removing the bumper not the whole engine".
Love the vids and I'm learning a lot. Though I'm not tearing up my car to the frame just yet 😂
Great video as usual!! For the underneath, try a heavy de-greaser to clean first. I like the yellow Harbor Freight stuff, and then a wire wheel to knock off any remaining scale. From there you can use rust converter and/or encapsulator from Eastman, and then take a look at Eastman's chassis black. You can spray it over anything and wears like iron. I've used their products in the past with really good results. Thanks!!
Alex disassembles whole car to bare frame "It's a DIY project".
Still love to see this mad project in your garage. Unlike other youtubers (I'm looking at you Sam) Alex will finish this in timely manner and will give us all awesome content.
how'd ya get underneath?
It would be possible to sweep up the used sand, dry it out, sift out big stuff, and use it again. Great job! Nice to see this option. What truly amazes me is that you will remember what goes back to where when it's time to put it all back together. Thanks for the demo.
I suspected you were bonkers now I know! 🤣 The frame is looking great can't wait to see it finished. Keep em coming.
I absolutely died!!!! Me mom!!!!! Sounds like my momma!!! You’re absolutely so humble!! Killer content!! My Saturday soap! ❤️
Flapper discs for grinder not drill and you can get different coarseness. You will love ‘em ! Also I think there is a product you can put in the water to eliminate the immediate rust after blasting. I have purchased a 2003 HD F-150 with the same motor a little detuned and 3,000 miles on it . Like new zero rust and $32,000 Canadian !
Getting it done right! Show truck time!
Us Porsche guys are using CO2 blasting to literally turn a 1972 car into a 2022. There is a shop here in south Florida that does it but it is NOT cheap!
Great video!
I think my sal-mon colored shirt is really where it's at. You and Peter are just jealous...
Next time you need to take a bed off by hand use a cherry picker and a 2x4 frame bolted into the bed mounts from inside the bed. You can use a similar method with a 2x4 frame bolted to the end of the cherry picker itself to pick up a cab. Just need to put a blanket on the 2x4 and bolt it together from inside. I also recently found out I can unbolt the engine, trans, and subframe from my 64 dodge 440. Then hook a chain up to the nose and tilt the car on the rear axle, up and off the drivetrain. Cherry pickers are useful for so much more than pulling engines.
Craziest head gasket change I've ever seen 😅
You can get an corrosion inhibitor like holdtight 102 to prevent the rust at least in the short term. Coal slag like Black Beauty from TSC works great with the pressure washer. I did an iron radiator for a house with that, blew it dry with a leaf blower and painted it. Looked amazing.
If anyone is tempted to try this, remember to clean up the sand properly - 5 bags of sand getting washed into the street drain by pressure washer and subsequent rain showers will make you pretty unpopular with your neighbours next time it rains heavily... For some reason civil engineers don't think "we better size the drain assuming someone will dump 125kg of wet sand down there all at once " 😀
Yep, "Off Site Sedimentation" is also a legal problem. But you'd never get in trouble for it because they focus on big developments, not one-off violations like this. It's not "just sand," either. It's everything he's blasting off, which is an environmental problem. But hey, it's entertaining, so who cares right! Not whining, just saying facts🤷♂
I love the chapters to this whole truck saga. What started off as a basic project has now become a full on frame off restoration but a really satisfying one at that.
Engines f'd... might as well build it and restore. Project scope creep will bite ya in nuts sometimes.
Always I hate looking I always find a ton to do
The way the syphon works on the pickup, i use a small ball with lots of holes (watch a video on how that pipe collector for the blaster works, you'll come up with a solution very quickly with what you have laying around. The ball lets the abrasive get collected by the syphon effect without clogging as easy. After blasting, i use phosphoric acid to convert any flash oxidisation prior to re-sealing, which i do the moment the acid has finished doing it's colour change. Very cool video thank you as always
I'd love to see how effective this is on aluminum wheels pitted with brake dust!
I mean, if you're trying to take them back to bare metal with a fine textured finish, you'll be very happy. But you would need to plan a new surface finish, as the raw blasted part won't stay pretty for long.
I have to say dude.. your videos have been getting better lately..not that they have been bad before, but the standard has been raised.
Well, this build got out of hand quickly.🤣Love it! Keep the vids on the L coming!
Interesting to see this, especially since Watch JR Go recently had his S10 Extreme frame soda blasted professionally. It did look more even, but I suspect they might have applied a rust converter before returning it to avoid the appearance of the flash rust.
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That will work great for removing paint off concrete too. 29.99$ i have to get one and try it out.
Sir, you are absolutely an inspiration. You tackle anything and everything and just get it done. Very impressive.
I bought one new in 1999 and just sold it last year. I didn't think it would bother me much but it does. Glad to see this one being treated as it should. Over the years I put about $18,000 in it, none of it was labor. It was worth every penny. These are amazing trucks.
I sold my 10 year old Chevy Silverado because the frame was totally covered in heavy rust, the bumpers had rusted through. All the brake and gas lines were rusted out. There was not a speck of rust or even a scratch on the body.
I bought a new Ford and had it rust proofed. The truck is five years old now and the frame looks like new. Well worth the money.
Now sand down frame Useing sandpaper too really make it pop then paint color of your choice ! I'd go with light blue .
I am really enjoying the direction this project has taken with the diy videos for stuff I never even considered. Thanks for the videos.
Has anyone ever done a 4x4 conversion on one of these… just thinking while you’re in there lol!!!
You can also make a wet slurry with the sand, makes for a more consistent feed and you don’t need another person to move the pickup tube.
Peter is always happy no matter the situation i need to learn how he is so stress free, i love him
I do vapor blasting using a blast cabinet. Really need to use a rust inhibitor when blasting ferrous metals.
Try searching for "nylon wire wheel". We powe washed the used 1 red nylon wheel to clean up my buddies 63 c10 frame, the did the por15 (metal prep, coating, top coat) turned out great. Pair these up with the sand idea would be great.
Looking forward to seeing the frame all finished. I'm guessing you'll use POR15 or Rust Encapsulator for the coating. I use POR15 a lot and more recently began using their Metal Prep zinc phosphate as the pre-coating etch. Also, a wading pool works great as a catch pan for dry sandblasting so you can reuse the media.
Really like Por-15
for a sand recovery system, I saw a guy do this years back himself and he used vizscreen (builders heavy duty plastic sheet 25' wide) under the chassis and around the side he used those portable barriers you see at public events to keep people on pavements, they link together and are about 4 foot high and held the vizscreen up with cable ties, it captured all the sand for him, a bit heath robinson and makeshift but as he said easier than having it all over his front garden and drive, it was a spitfire he was blasting and it was like new when finished, he recycled most the sand, folded up the vizscreen and took it to the tip, job done,
Just a heds up for future projects. The substrate needs to be completely clean of any oils, grease, or other petroleum product. If it's not cleaed off prior to blasting, its possible to trap contaminates in the surface, and that will cause premature coatings failure.
I have a Wet blast rig for my Stihl 130plus power washer (2000PSI) and its not a bad thing but I also use a Blast gun with Bicarb soda and a shop compressor for finer work and surface rust mainly because a quick run over with degreaser or solvent prepwash dissolves the Bi Carb so you dont get the grit issues you do with non soluble blast media.
The other upside with Soda blasting is the enviro rules as the waste from the process is way easier to dispose of when you blast paint or oily parts and with rust and scale its simply a hose away proposition although i do use Sand berms to filter and protect drainage when I wash down.
POR15 has a rust converter that will turn surface rust into like a galvanized coating that you rinse off with water. I love the stuff.
I think it’s super cool that you are going the extra mile on your truck. I applaud you for your choice to make the lightning an even bigger beef cake.
I wish I woulda found this video earlier lol. I'm restoring my 1964 impala, full frame off. I already stripped and painted the frame but I did it the hard way with a drill, grinder and wire brushes. I was out in my hot shop for like 4 weekends getting as dirty as a human possibly can when I could have just pressure blasted it all. Dang lol.
It's the perfect time to replace every rubber bushing and the springs!!
Absolutely...that sand and water must have blasted itself in-between those bushes and the friction will certainly cause them to wear out quicker..👍👍
Did he plug the differential vent? Great time to plan on new diff gears possibly. Also shocks, brakes, wheel bearing seals...
I bought one of these , I haven't used it yet , my 86 F150 was out of CA , and still Has original chassis paint , I've got a 385 ci windsor , motec injected , on a tremec 5 speed , you might want to add a lid to that sand you don't want moisture in there , if the sand doesn't flow well add a very small air bleed line to fluidize the sand .Cheers good job .
Great video I have done this before. POR 15 has a product that you apply while your project is still wet and it will stop the flash rusting it is awesome.
Glad you decided to restore the frame. Got my SVT Lightning shirt in the mail this week, love it.
You know , I have helped do some care off-fram restos before , and i never understood when the manufacturers are using u-shaped stampings, they always put the U facing up so it collects water. Why can't they turn it 180 degrees?
Just a thought. Build a battery pack between the frame rails. Drop in a few Tesla motors. with a cooling system, and you have a modern truck. Takes about, $25,000. Cheap F-150.
Great progress! Can't wait to see the Lightning all finished!
Great job Alex! It's looking really good. Can't wait to see how it looks after the rust converter has gone on!
Flappy paddle 60grit on a 5" grinder for intermediate pass will save heaps of time . Liked the use of pressure washer tho , perfect for final pass
As long as you dry out the inner frame where sand got in while blasting. completely removing it, just made the outside clen, got get all the debris from inside the rails.
I have no idea what it costs but dry ice blasting is another alternative. No sand residue or dust and you can even do it indoors. Tavarish did a video on it about six months ago.
9:56
That's how a carburettor works
Instead of water,imagine atmospheric pressure and the sand is your gas
Pistons moving in the cylinders is your jet wash.
What a treat I still hope there’s a video Saturday to lol
Ahhh! There’s something to be said for pushing dry sand thru a 1” nozzle with a 150hp diesel compressor😂. No more than an hour tops! But definitely would cost more!
It helps to put the sand bags in your home in a dry space like your basement for a few days to make sure its dry dry
Nice result. There are rust inhibitors that you can add that stops the flash
Thanks for this video.. I have an older truck that I was not going to touch the frame because it does get expensive. But thanks to you i will soend the extra time & get it done 😅
last thing you want when blasting steel is get it wet before you paint it. it will flash rust very fast. how do you work with wet metal blasting?
I did this to a c10 frame, it worked good for a while, then just stopped feeding well. I think the nozzle wore out. But I got the frame done. When it was working well it really worked well, if these units could be improved to feed better they could be really good; particularly with a 4K psi, 4 gpm pressure washer.
When I had a go at this I got a ten gallon metal bucket and fixed a metal funnel to the bottom put feet on it and the sand only had one way to go and that was down and absolutely no feed issues 👍👍
I’ve used the products of Caprotech anti rust. Do you know that? Use the Caprotech RX5 and RX10 to protect the chassis. It needs some surface rust to work properly. I’m not sure of you can buy it in the US, but it’s worth a try to get it. Keep up the good work! Greetings from the Netherlands.
I'm not 100% clear on the head gasket connection to stripping the frame.... but i'm really getting into the sandblasting. I just hope AMSOIL sponsors with the sealant!! So cool. Keep going!!
After using a sandblasting box as kid for machine parts. I always wanted to try a car or frame!! LoL..
Very cool. I am building an adventure trailer from a utility trailer, and want to blast it, etc.. with the sand flying my neighborhood would lose their marbles. Thinking of putting up a make shift booth of sorts, plastic sheeting, etc. to retain the sand in a more compact area. Thanks.