I have the same blasting setup, and through some trial and error, I have found that setting the air pressure around 70 to 80 psi at the pressure tank works the best. I set my compressor at 125 psi, so there's a cushion zone so that my small 25-gallon compressor can keep up. Plus, at this pressure, I don't use as much material, and I get more done with less, and my arms aren't as sore at the end of the day from holding onto a hose putting out 125 psi. Good job with everything that you have accomplished so far. I'll be following along with your progress waiting for the next video. P.S. my daughter bought some shirts off the website for my birthday.
I work in a industrial powder coating shop and we use a very big pressure pot with 2 dust collector, one of dust collector sucks up the sand and drops it into the pressure pot/reservoir while taking out the dust out of it and the other sucks out the dust in the blasting chamber (like a closed room) We use 46 grit aluminum oxide and it does wonders with rust and paint. BUT we do burn out the paint, grease or anything else stuck on the piece we coat by putting it into our big ovens. So for the grease I would recommend using a normal torch to burn it or you can use M.E.K (methyl ethyl Ketone) it's kinda like acetone but stronger def have to wear THICCC gloves and goggles.
We used a 6” angle grinder with a steel brush to break loose the big stuff. Much quicker and then the sandblaster. We used aluminum oxide for media. It would be too aggressive for some things but a truck frame is fine. Makes a fifty year old weld look better than new.
From a cost benefit analysis standpoint, having spent 24 hours sand blasting, it would seem paying more for an enterprise grade sand blaster (or doing the valve upgrades noted earlier) would quickly pay for itself. Time is money as they say.
I’m not sure what prices are in his area but I paid $600 to have my F-350 frame sandblasted by a professional. I’m someone who does absolutely everything diy but sandblasting sucks and I think it was money well spent.
That extra bracket you showed must have been an add on to beef up the F-550 frame. My F-350 frame that I just cleaned up and painted didn’t have that bracket. That crossmember is a super common place for rust and rot though so I would definitely drill a big drain hole. That’s one of the places my old frame rotted away at.
Great job buddy! Thanks for mentioning me. You must have been paying attention when we did your other stuff here at my place. Just give me a call and I can give you a couple tips to make it go faster. Pro tip always screen your sand while putting it in you never know what is in there from the plant. 1 more tip is if your valve at the bottom of the pot clogges it's prob moisture, you can choke it by closeing the valve going down there for a split second quickly while the nozzle is blasting (you might need help). I wish I was closer I would come over and do everything in one day. 😂
@@mrmotofy Window screen. You don't need to blast metal with anything larger than that. The larger the grain the heavier it is, the more air pressure you need to move it.
We used a 6” angle grinder with a steel brush to break loose the big stuff. Much quicker and then the sandblaster. We used aluminum oxide for media. It would be too aggressive for some things but a truck frame is fine. Makes a fifty year old weld look better than new. You may wish you had used plastic sheeting to work over. You can reuse the media and you can also fold the tarp over to keep it from being in the house. Little foot prints everywhere. Plus the old rust makes a pretty good media.
Change out the nozzle to get a wider pattern. You’ll go through more medium and have to boost up the pressure/volume but your compressor should be able to accommodate. I worked in a shop with that same compressor although we used it as a roughing pump for vacuum bagging huge composite layups. It doubled as a compressor and could run everything in the shop as well.
you could probably polish the hood lens on the blasting hood with a "metal" polish like mothers its really just a really fine wet grit but i see people using it for everything, as far as sand waste i would use a tarp and sift it for the next project because sifting one bag is kinda useless when its such a big project
I'd say do both knives and multi tools as they are important and I'd look at doing like fire starters or lighters. I've modified a couple hobo freight sand blasters to larger line with bigger valves but none ball valve as they flow better
Buy your sand in 2500 pound totes. It ends up being cheap that bags if you have any sort of big projects. Just make sure you store the extra somewhere dry. Frame is looking good.
Can you put a longer nozzle to get a little farther from the work and cover more area with less physical movement.maybe shield would last longer as well ? Just a thought
Great job in the end but MAN that’s a lot of media. Like others have said catch it and reuse it. Looking forward the next video of using the ambo for the last time. Hey, I was watching Isaac Turners video from Northwest Nomads and think I saw you in there. Anyway, thanks for sharing
Knives and other camping tools would be great. I just purchased a few of the next bottles and more flashlights, as my Christmas, Birthday, Anniversary, and everyday gift list is dwindling, thanks to your wonderful and useful merchandise. Thinking outside the box, do most campers already have their go-to first-aid kit? Or since you have roughed it alone, James, perhaps think of items you could have used while in the camper but did not have.
So humidity doesn't rise with colder weather. Cold air actually can't hold as much moisture as hot air. When you see a rise in humidity in cold weather you're looking at relative humidity which is a percent of the total moisture that air can hold at that temp. This means 100% humidity on a cold day may only be equal to say 50% humidity on a really hot day. It just means that cold air is maxed out as to how much moisture it can hold which is significantly less then it could on a hot day.
Proud of you and your team. Got my extra t-shirts today with the emblem Expedition Ranch. How about a sew on patches.? Or maybe a reasonably jacket? Knifeso 🔪 🔪 or tools with your label on. Winter stocking 👒 hats?
I don't know if it's cheaper but if you go back on Legit Street Cars he sandblasted the frame on his Ford lightening with what I say is a better design for a cheap one of these, and I have used a similar thing to make a cheap pressure washer
Next time use a large electric grinder with a super large cup type wire wheel to remove as much surface rust then blast. This will help you because the air compresser and blaster you have is very small compared to what is used commercially. 100 CFM is standard, most are portable with diesel motor.
Hey James that frame looks awesome, but to you question about knives an multi tool heck yeah I would definitely buy them both, I had already bought the flashlight’s that you have, so yeah if you add the knife an multi tool please let us know.
Yep need lot's of cfm for blasting. Many regulators and valves are low volume. Tons of small compressors out there too. But I have a vid on my channel called Supercharge Your Air Compressor. It shows and discusses problems and solutions like connecting multiple compressors together. FB Marketplace has tons of cheap compressors available.
Excellent video just a few things that's really important the modification to the deadmans is a risky move if you slip or drop the hose it's going to continue to blast not such a big problem with 40cfm also kiln dry sand is very bad for you and anything that breaths air I was told a 3 mile radius (not sure if thats true) it's been banned in the UK since the 60s also most of Europe blasting with sillica sand is banned for the health risks. I would say to anyone thinking about doing this have a go for the entertainment factor only because what it's cost buying the equipment/media consumables etc (not including time) it would work out cheaper faster and a better safer finish hiring a pro 👍 Excellent video showing that it can be done. I would be able to blast the full chassis and axles etc etc with 100/150kgs and take aprox 2 hour Ps washing the chassis was a waste of time the blaster would eat through grease rot rust the only thing it would struggle with is rubber
For better upgrades I would do away with the ball valve as a metering valve and use a hose and clamp type as the ball valve will burn out fairly quickly. When it cloggs the 2nd ball valve try closing this to add more air into the pot to push the clog through instead of vibrating the pot (open the metering valve full and close the choke valve that should speed things up for you)👍
Send that frame out for galvanizing. No it wont warp like people say they will. Its really not that expensive. Would probably cost around 250 to have it done
i'm wondering if using a good 'ol grinder with a sanding disc would have been faster for the flat parts then just clean up the bendy bits and holes with that little sandblaster.
did you guys ever consider - instead of removing the deadman’s switch entirely, just working in some sort of sliding latch that would lock the switch open and be easily released? it just seems like a bit of overkill to completely remove that piece and replace it with something that is almost more awkward than a deadman’s switch…
He needs to be using a finer grit than a coal because it’s a lot thicker and it’s clogging if you go with a finer grit is gonna come out a lot faster and more than something that is thicker
If I was you I’d just pay a professional to come and blast it with a dustless blaster probably pay 5/700$ but it’ll be done fast and right. I’ve done crane on my truck how you did and it’s a pain in rear lol or just get a big blaster and rent a high cfm compressor
No TMK aka dead man switch is SUPER dangerous!!! Imagine f. e. you getting a heat stroke, fall unconcious and the sand doesn't stop and you let loose of the cable and the hose goes haywire: So much can go wrong!!!
Put a big tarp down to catch your blasting media. You can sift it with a cheap dollar store sieve and reuse it.
Ngl call me lazy but that seems like a huge waste of time over $12 per 100 lbs
And what is his time worth? Would you spend a an hour+ collecting, sifting and then clearing out the jams? It's just not worth it to most people.
@@jarodmorris4408 This is what I'm sayin. It isn't anywhere near worth it for $12 per 100 lb bag.
@@jarodmorris4408 that's what kids are for :p
@@jarodmorris4408they can use a vacuum cleaner…
I have the same blasting setup, and through some trial and error, I have found that setting the air pressure around 70 to 80 psi at the pressure tank works the best. I set my compressor at 125 psi, so there's a cushion zone so that my small 25-gallon compressor can keep up. Plus, at this pressure, I don't use as much material, and I get more done with less, and my arms aren't as sore at the end of the day from holding onto a hose putting out 125 psi. Good job with everything that you have accomplished so far. I'll be following along with your progress waiting for the next video. P.S. my daughter bought some shirts off the website for my birthday.
Nice man 👍🏼
What do you sandblast? Just curious
I work in a industrial powder coating shop and we use a very big pressure pot with 2 dust collector, one of dust collector sucks up the sand and drops it into the pressure pot/reservoir while taking out the dust out of it and the other sucks out the dust in the blasting chamber (like a closed room) We use 46 grit aluminum oxide and it does wonders with rust and paint.
BUT we do burn out the paint, grease or anything else stuck on the piece we coat by putting it into our big ovens.
So for the grease I would recommend using a normal torch to burn it or you can use M.E.K (methyl ethyl Ketone) it's kinda like acetone but stronger def have to wear THICCC gloves and goggles.
crazy that you’re restoring the truck to this extent, absolutely amazing
Not reusing the sand is crazy work brodie
We used a 6” angle grinder with a steel brush to break loose the big stuff. Much quicker and then the sandblaster. We used aluminum oxide for media. It would be too aggressive for some things but a truck frame is fine. Makes a fifty year old weld look better than new.
From a cost benefit analysis standpoint, having spent 24 hours sand blasting, it would seem paying more for an enterprise grade sand blaster (or doing the valve upgrades noted earlier) would quickly pay for itself. Time is money as they say.
I’m not sure what prices are in his area but I paid $600 to have my F-350 frame sandblasted by a professional. I’m someone who does absolutely everything diy but sandblasting sucks and I think it was money well spent.
@@maineiacoffroad9969 or buy the laser one?
That extra bracket you showed must have been an add on to beef up the F-550 frame. My F-350 frame that I just cleaned up and painted didn’t have that bracket. That crossmember is a super common place for rust and rot though so I would definitely drill a big drain hole. That’s one of the places my old frame rotted away at.
Great job buddy! Thanks for mentioning me. You must have been paying attention when we did your other stuff here at my place. Just give me a call and I can give you a couple tips to make it go faster. Pro tip always screen your sand while putting it in you never know what is in there from the plant. 1 more tip is if your valve at the bottom of the pot clogges it's prob moisture, you can choke it by closeing the valve going down there for a split second quickly while the nozzle is blasting (you might need help). I wish I was closer I would come over and do everything in one day. 😂
What size screen or what process?
@@mrmotofy Window screen. You don't need to blast metal with anything larger than that. The larger the grain the heavier it is, the more air pressure you need to move it.
@@sandblastxtremerv Ah, well that's easy thx
We used a 6” angle grinder with a steel brush to break loose the big stuff. Much quicker and then the sandblaster. We used aluminum oxide for media. It would be too aggressive for some things but a truck frame is fine. Makes a fifty year old weld look better than new. You may wish you had used plastic sheeting to work over. You can reuse the media and you can also fold the tarp over to keep it from being in the house. Little foot prints everywhere. Plus the old rust makes a pretty good media.
Dude that 7.3l will tow a house that is the best powerstroke engine imo 👌
Great episode! I never thought it would take that much sand!!!
Change out the nozzle to get a wider pattern. You’ll go through more medium and have to boost up the pressure/volume but your compressor should be able to accommodate. I worked in a shop with that same compressor although we used it as a roughing pump for vacuum bagging huge composite layups. It doubled as a compressor and could run everything in the shop as well.
So great to see your over 55000 subscribers well done you have a awesome channel
when you poured in the media, my first thought was, ooph, thats coarse!
Thank you I’m probably gonna buy one for the farm now to do small restoration projects and the frame of my mini truck
you could probably polish the hood lens on the blasting hood with a "metal" polish like mothers its really just a really fine wet grit but i see people using it for everything, as far as sand waste i would use a tarp and sift it for the next project because sifting one bag is kinda useless when its such a big project
Now’s the time to check into more heavy duty springs.
Increased my trucks capacity recently.
Thanks much for sharing. I hope you enjoy your day
Yes, knives and multi tools.
dude...i so admire your hard work, work ethic and dedication. great content! keep up the great work
I'd say do both knives and multi tools as they are important and I'd look at doing like fire starters or lighters. I've modified a couple hobo freight sand blasters to larger line with bigger valves but none ball valve as they flow better
have you seen the sand blaster attachments for pressure washers? they are under 50 bucks and since they are wet , no dust!
They fly through media though
Thanks for the excellent video. I learn a lot about these conversion by watching you guys. Thanks again.
Great results! Why not wire wheel/cup the wide open space and blast the fiddly contours? Enjoying the build!
I just subbed this morning and already a new video let’s go
Prime it first before you paint otherwise all that hard work would be wasted trust me I did my own chassis I learned the hard way
FANTASTIC VIDEO!! I can't wait to tackle my '41 Dodge coupe restoration now! Thanks so much for sharing your video.
This is some quality content
There are charts that tell you nozzle size for CFM, you will have much better production if you follow it.
Buy your sand in 2500 pound totes. It ends up being cheap that bags if you have any sort of big projects. Just make sure you store the extra somewhere dry. Frame is looking good.
Can you put a longer nozzle to get a little farther from the work and cover more area with less physical movement.maybe shield would last longer as well ? Just a thought
Look into surface grinders. They will save you time in surface preparation
Great job in the end but MAN that’s a lot of media. Like others have said catch it and reuse it. Looking forward the next video of using the ambo for the last time. Hey, I was watching Isaac Turners video from Northwest Nomads and think I saw you in there. Anyway, thanks for sharing
Dude I can recommend the flash light for sure! I bought one cause I needed a new one for work it works great the battery has really impressed me!
Would’ve had the frame powder coated. More durable
Knives and other camping tools would be great. I just purchased a few of the next bottles and more flashlights, as my Christmas, Birthday, Anniversary, and everyday gift list is dwindling, thanks to your wonderful and useful merchandise. Thinking outside the box, do most campers already have their go-to first-aid kit? Or since you have roughed it alone, James, perhaps think of items you could have used while in the camper but did not have.
You're a hard worker James. Thanks for taking us along.
Just started watching your channel, doing some awesome work.
holy cow man thats alot of work!
So humidity doesn't rise with colder weather. Cold air actually can't hold as much moisture as hot air. When you see a rise in humidity in cold weather you're looking at relative humidity which is a percent of the total moisture that air can hold at that temp. This means 100% humidity on a cold day may only be equal to say 50% humidity on a really hot day. It just means that cold air is maxed out as to how much moisture it can hold which is significantly less then it could on a hot day.
Some guys use lazers or dry ice or sand blasting to remove rust .
There's also a needle scaler which works awesome or there's water blasting.
Would a needle scaler work for that or is it for really bad rust?
@@what3394 It works for lot'sof cases, just requires a lot of air and it's loud.
i have the same blaster.
does it work? YES
is it painfully slow ? .... YES
Proud of you and your team. Got my extra t-shirts today with the emblem Expedition Ranch. How about a sew on patches.? Or maybe a reasonably jacket? Knifeso 🔪 🔪 or tools with your label on. Winter stocking 👒 hats?
Love the channel man
keep up with the great videos. yes knives and multi tools please.
I use Lowes/Home depot play sand with a window screen in the funnel
Something simple as a palm sander bungeed to the bottom of the tank and screening your media would have slashed you time in half .
with all the sand you should have put a tarp under the frame and re used it lol
Multi tool but put something in it that you usually wouldn’t find in a multi tool that you think would be useful 👍🏻
I don't know if it's cheaper but if you go back on Legit Street Cars he sandblasted the frame on his Ford lightening with what I say is a better design for a cheap one of these, and I have used a similar thing to make a cheap pressure washer
I sand blast a lot, I’ve been using an airman I forget the make and model but it a diesel unit! It’s unlimited cfm
Next time use a large electric grinder with a super large cup type wire wheel to remove as much surface rust then blast. This will help you because the air compresser and blaster you have is very small compared to what is used commercially. 100 CFM is standard, most are portable with diesel motor.
You would earn a mint wage in Essex England 🎉
Could you put a heavy tarp down and recycle the sand?
Do you think this could use the micro steel shot media? or play sand?
I have no intention of sandblasting anything and yet here I am watching you use one. Idk what type of autism I have but, it’s a special kind.
Hey James that frame looks awesome, but to you question about knives an multi tool heck yeah I would definitely buy them both, I had already bought the flashlight’s that you have, so yeah if you add the knife an multi tool please let us know.
Yep need lot's of cfm for blasting. Many regulators and valves are low volume. Tons of small compressors out there too. But I have a vid on my channel called Supercharge Your Air Compressor. It shows and discusses problems and solutions like connecting multiple compressors together. FB Marketplace has tons of cheap compressors available.
Excellent video just a few things that's really important the modification to the deadmans is a risky move if you slip or drop the hose it's going to continue to blast not such a big problem with 40cfm also kiln dry sand is very bad for you and anything that breaths air I was told a 3 mile radius (not sure if thats true) it's been banned in the UK since the 60s also most of Europe blasting with sillica sand is banned for the health risks. I would say to anyone thinking about doing this have a go for the entertainment factor only because what it's cost buying the equipment/media consumables etc (not including time) it would work out cheaper faster and a better safer finish hiring a pro 👍 Excellent video showing that it can be done. I would be able to blast the full chassis and axles etc etc with 100/150kgs and take aprox 2 hour
Ps washing the chassis was a waste of time the blaster would eat through grease rot rust the only thing it would struggle with is rubber
For better upgrades I would do away with the ball valve as a metering valve and use a hose and clamp type as the ball valve will burn out fairly quickly.
When it cloggs the 2nd ball valve try closing this to add more air into the pot to push the clog through instead of vibrating the pot (open the metering valve full and close the choke valve that should speed things up for you)👍
I used the dead man switch. It's a huge huge pain.
Watch out using regular sand that shits bad for your lungs. I use the fine coal slag, works great.
Send that frame out for galvanizing. No it wont warp like people say they will. Its really not that expensive. Would probably cost around 250 to have it done
i'm wondering if using a good 'ol grinder with a sanding disc would have been faster for the flat parts then just clean up the bendy bits and holes with that little sandblaster.
did you guys ever consider - instead of removing the deadman’s switch entirely, just working in some sort of sliding latch that would lock the switch open and be easily released?
it just seems like a bit of overkill to completely remove that piece and replace it with something that is almost more awkward than a deadman’s switch…
You should do a collab with Half faced blades for some limited edition, Expedition ranch knives.
Looks like light surface rust after cleaning. Did you consider using a rust encapsulation/sealing coating instead of sand blasting?
He needs to be using a finer grit than a coal because it’s a lot thicker and it’s clogging if you go with a finer grit is gonna come out a lot faster and more than something that is thicker
I probably would’ve zip tied the dead man switch. Left it loose enough to easily slip on an off
What rust? That frame looks great as is!
In all fairness mate you're blasting a whole chassis
Hey great job on the sand blasting. Let me know if you want to sell that service body🤔
Glad its u and not me lol
Next time, lay down a tarp beneath the frame so that you can recuperate most of the media and use it again.
If I was you I’d just pay a professional to come and blast it with a dustless blaster probably pay 5/700$ but it’ll be done fast and right. I’ve done crane on my truck how you did and it’s a pain in rear lol or just get a big blaster and rent a high cfm compressor
I could have done this in a day. Few blunts and I’d be having a blast no fun intended
Dope video !
"It's not the sandblaster's fault, I just can't read"
Clean
This stuff is awesome
Would love to see knives and multi tools
You should definitely do knives and what not.
The huge and expensive air compressor is more of a factor than the sand blaster.
I see you acquired the Maritime Academy Dr exit sign! Did you go to CMA?
Power would hold up better over time
Laser removal works well if your making a business out of it. Expensive up front cost, but faster results
Yes
SAKs are the best to start
What state are you in? Looks like Canada, but I know it’s not.
No TMK aka dead man switch is SUPER dangerous!!! Imagine f. e. you getting a heat stroke, fall unconcious and the sand doesn't stop and you let loose of the cable and the hose goes haywire: So much can go wrong!!!
You know if you rented one and a big tow behind compressor you woulda blasted the from in 45 min both sides
Now it has a f-250 frame😂
Meanwhile a cheap pressure washer sandblasting attachment works better
Better paint that thing
Make more videos
Bro why is this 30 minutes long I just wanted to see a slightly longer version of the short
Brain rot got you
I want to see knives!!!!!!
Why are we using our mouth to remove a welding glove
Hansel, so hot right now. Hansel.