The proper way to do this on a GDI engine is to start your engine and drive it until it gets to operating temperature. Than add the fluid in short bursts AFTER the throttle body and MAF sensor. The brake booster line right on the intake manifold is the best spot. Keep your throttle at 2000-2500 RPM while spraying short bursts into the engine. Drain the can dry, this takes a few minutes as there is quite a lot in a can. Rev your engine a couple of times to pull the rest of the liquid into the intake manifold. Shut your engine off and wait one hour while the liquid soaks into the hot carbon deposits on the intake valves and intake port areas. After the 1 hour time limit, start the car and drive it out on the highway for at least 15 minutes giving it a good "Italian Tune-up" running it hard through the gears. Bear in mind that when you drive and rev that engine in this way, those valves are screaming and knocking all of the built up crap off of them. You wont BELIEVE how much crappy soot that will come blasting out of your exhaust(s)! DO this at every other oil change, I make that at 10,000 miles. I use CRC and not Amsoil and I and my Lexus intake valves and ports are very, very happy.
I like to do it the way you explained it but use 1/3 of the bottle at a time like the first time you get most of the billed up second time you get deeper to brake up more of the stubborn billed up and third time to panitrat more i feel like that's the better way to do it but it's going to take a good portion of the day to get it done.
The problem with this method is it does not address the large carbon buildup in the intake runners and that's what affects performance the most. Once carbon buildup is past a certain point manual cleaning is the only solution. This can be labor intensive on some vehicles. Just a byproduct of direct injection.
I can't entirely blame the buy who invented GDI. He might not have needed to do it if the EPA demand reductions in smog or increases in fuel economy. When my mom was looking to get a car in 2015, I helped her get a 2011 Honda CRV. That was the last Honda CRV to be built without GDI.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO just like common rail diesel i would like to see a long term test on a GDi after manually cleaning the valves then doing an EGR delete along with the catch can you already have.
I'm not sure if it's true or not but I saw a video somewhere that says GDI was invented in 1902. Ooops, a little more searching and found Bosch created it for a truck engine in 1925.
Where is the vacuum line on a Chevy Impala 3.6l direct injection?? Hoping you might know I can't seem to locate it so I only know of spraying into the throttle body
Shushashir111 I’d see a manufacturing company doing that but a lot of TH-camrs like to test just for the people, go watch Scotty Kilmor he’s been a mechanic for 50 years(?). Im not saying he isn’t though...
He's been doing it on the same car, take it with a grain of salt. TH-camrs could make stuff up too. I could see if he is doing it on a different car but he is not.
Today I cleaned up all the carbon on an Audi. I used a$30 Portable Sandblasting device (Harbor Freight) and a Box of (Fine 24 Grit) Walnut Shells. Removed the Intake Manifold 35min, Cover the Vehicle with bed sheets and only leave the port exposed. I scraped 75% with picks and finished the rest with walnuts. The dealer wants +$1000 for that service. There is no free lunch, you need to remove the intake and just clean it manually.
If tiny holes were drilled into the plastic intake manifold right over each intake valve then the foam could be sprayed right on one valve at a time and might get a better result. Plug holes afterward.
Hey guy, 40+ yrs of Honda/Toyota hands on svc and business ownership here....Had issues with certain model Civics in the early 2000's....Would lose comp. BC rings being stuck w/carbon...Enter BG44k..& a metered hose into a central intake port. Running eng (aprox 2500 rpm) AT TEMP...OUTSIDE due 2 fumes...Induct FULL can ...continue 2 run 4 a bit....DONE! saved my clients beau coup $$$ now retired @ beach!!
@NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO - Directly from the AMSOIL Product Data Sheet for the Power Foam; "Directions 1. Protect painted surfaces and mass airflow sensors (MAF) from spray. 2. Ensure application is in a well-ventilated area. 3. Run engine to normal operating temperature and remove air cleaner assembly. 4. While engine is running, spray Power Foam directly into throttle body as fast as possible without stalling engine. It is common to have to rev the engine above idle to facilitate this process. It is also common to see white smoke coming out of your exhaust. ---> 5. Once the sound of the engine improves, spray enough Power Foam to choke out the engine. Shut off engine and allow to sit for 10-15 minutes.
I would be concerned with hardened chunks of carbon being removed damaging the valve seating surface although the only other option is to remove the intake manifold assembly and walnut blast the intake ports and valve tops. My opinion for what it is worth. Remove the throttle body and clean it beforehand . That engine is extremely dirty.
For me only solution is, take it apart, remove head, wire brush all parts, piston heads, all valves and intake runners, new seals and put it together again. Just another proof that all this "highly developped emission control systems" just go to far and do in the long run more bad than good. All emissions saved will be null and void after the necessary repair.
Same for me, i lap my valves every 2 to 3 oil changes, and clean the entire head while also replacing gaskets. But not everyone is able to do that. This foam thing is just for les mechanicaly enclined people to give them some piece of mind; as we could see, it didn't do that much.
Years ago I took my Honda 1500 S to a Mechanic shop because of a severe rough idle, after 115 dollars and bullshit service, it ran no better . I remember an old plumber told me once to clean the engine pour automatic transmission fluid into the carburetor and gun the engine. So I did it a whole quart over 5-10 minutes. The entire neighborhood was engulfed in smoke, but the car ran 1000% better.
So I've watched 3 of your videos using different products on those filthy intake valves each product cleaned very little, I'm just wondering how each time yo've done this how can the engine valves look the same before using these cleaners. Something doesn't add up here. Logic would say before each cleaning the valves would progressively look cleaner and cleaner but they don't. Either your engine really pumps a lot of recirculated engine blow by to look amazingly filthy before each cleaning product. What gives? Also how do or where do you put that bore scope without removing the manifold?
This stuff dose work. You have to have to people 1 tapping the accelerator the other spraying constantly non stop no more than 2k rpm because you want this stuff to move as slowly as possible and then right at the end choke it out but leave at least 1/2 ounce left in the can and spay the rest after the engine dies. Let it sit 15 minutes then crank up stuff burn the power foam off. I've used this stuff 4 times and it works IF DONE RIGHT
Take the intake off, do valves that are closed, get carb cleaner and zip ties bundled together and ram them around while spraying into each, rotate engine to close next valves, works great on VW 2.0 fsi.
consumer also need to put TOP TIER gasoline for their engine to keep them healthy (Detergent Gasoline Brand) to help prevent some of that build up. Good video
WHEN WILL PEOPLE LEARN THAT THIS IS TO HELP TAKE OFF SMALL AMOUNTS OF CARBON BUILD UP. THOSE INTAKE PORTS ARE F***ED YOU NEED TO WALNUT BLAST THEM. NOT ONLY THAT THIS HAS BEEN THE SAME VEHICLE ON ALL HIS VIDEOS LOL
best thing I have found to use that works well is a mix of carb cleaner and gas hooked to fuel rail match regular fuel pressure pull fuel pump relay and run car on the carb cleaner, gas mix as bad as your motor was tho only thing that will work is pulling the head and manually cleaning them
That sounds good for a port fuel inj car. This is a Direct InJ engine. So anything introduced in the fuel rail does not touch the back of the valves. By the way , I also make concoctions of gas to run through my marine engine, Good job!
Yes a spray cleaner is much better otherwise it will not help the intake valves.just follow manufacturer's instructions. My newest video can provide valid information.
Please shorten your videos. I don’t believe it’s necessary to include you spraying the can in its entirety and then some to effectively show the results of the product.
Great video! Props to you. I would lie to see a video about cleaning the intake by itself, like remove it from the car and cleaning it out with a degreaser like industrial ZEPP. see if that makes a difference in idle and over all performance!
you spray the most on the throttle body. spray it through a vacuum hose. then much more mist will end up on your valves then it will be better clean try it once!
And also why not spray it directly into the intake manifold pcv after the throttle body where you put the borescope through so it goes directly over the valves
I'd like to see a small hole drilled on each of the intake runners at the corresponding location of each valve. This needs to only big enough for a spraying straw to fit thru. This way you could spray directly onto the valves. When finished install a plug (rubber) into the small holes you drilled to eliminate any un-metered air.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO My thought would be with a warm engine spray valves let sit over night, drive normally and repeat next night until can or cans are empty. Newer engines, with duel injectors spray valves daily, just not 100% of the time. I'm thinking heat cycling and spraying might work better than just once spraying and cross you fingers...
The best way is to spray the valves and intake side of the head DIRECTLY and let it sit. Run it, burn it off. Do it again. You'll see better cleaning than valve three on all of them. Its best to do this before an oil change because it will get into the cylinders and into the oil.
Liqui moly valve clean, Amsoil Power Foam, CRC, Sea Foam etc... None of these state whether or not you have to change your engine oil after cleaning the valves with their products, do we have to immediately change oil after the treatment? What do you think?
It would be a LOT faster and efficient to take of the intake manifold, spray it directly in the ports, let it soak. Loosen it with a tooth brush or something similar and remove it with a syringe. Done this a few days ago on my Alfa Romeo 159 2.2JTS (direct injected ecotec II engine with an AR cyl. head). Used EGR cleaner for 5€, worked wonders. P.S: Never seen this much soot in a petrol engine (except VAG TFSI engines and they are the worst).
Would u do a test on egr cleaner sprays that go via intake to see if they can clean egr valves carbon since that's exhaust side after combustion I'm unsure if they even work at all
AJ I have a 2016 and I've used the seafoam and noticed a slight improvement for a little while but not as good as I expected. I tried crc on my 1994 cobra tho and it worked very well but then again that motor was much dirtier. I'm going to try the amsoil next and see how well it does because I put amsoil 100% synthetic oil in my cobra when I did the first change since I've owned it and it was a 10 fold difference
NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO thats is NOT what the directions say to do. It says to spray it all at once as does ALL of these intake cleaners. You spray in short bursts against the directions listed by the products.
Most intake manifolds are plastic now. Why not drill and tap a threaded hole in each runner as close to the intake valve as possible. Install thread in bolts into the tapped holes. Then when it’s time to clean the valves the intake plug(s) for each cylinder can be removed individually so that the valve can get hit by the concentrated spray directly. Then shut the engine down and spray soak each valve and let them heat soak for a bit and then install plugs and drive it like you stole it.
I would like to know why you are not spraying 1/4 of an inch away from the throttle plate like the instructions say to? I understand that you want people to see the spray pattern. But a product only has an honest chance of working if it's applied correctly
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO start the car, let it on idle,and remove hose from intake manifold. Then bring steam cleaning machine close to intake manifold and vacuum will pull in the steam. Car should be on working temperature.
Some there is a noticeable difference i try not to be to opinionated because i dont want to promote any product but i drive thousands of miles between test as my job makes that easy so ideas for a new test?
A little constructive criticism here, I'd like to see you spray products more aggressively IE not in short bursts, only stopping the spray when the engine is about to die out say something close to 1000 rpms for example. When the engine clears out and is just about running clean but not quite near 2500 rpms apply cleaner in the same fashion repeating the process until can is emptied. This should totally saturate the valves giving cleaners the best possible chance of showing there merits. I would not be worried about hydrolock with these cleaners you'd be hard pressed to damage an engine with a foaming oil/solvent IMHO. For best application of cleaners I'd like to see you actuate the throttle with one hand and continuously spray an entire can even if full throttle is necessary to keep the engine from stalling. Hope you'll consider these techniques for future use, I do like the content please keep it up. 👍
Yeah thanks i understand and will see what can be done but if you see German cleaner i sprayed once half a second and left the idle below 2000 rpms and it died but the cleaner didn't say raise rpms but i thought as much. However i will try to see what can be done thanks alot
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO I think rpm need to be 2500+ I know the directions say different but I'm suggesting force feeding the engine. Thanks for the response I'll keep watching you've got a winner of a channel here, I'll be happy to see it keep evolving.
Thanks and ive got something special on the way i saw a project farm video today and saw it was similar to what i was doing and would already have out had the Chinese holiday thrown a wrench in my plan
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO if you mean he has a similar video to what you were making I'd say run what you brung, I'm sure your subs will be Interested in your take.
They really should eliminate egr systems considering the technology they have to day with valve timing, injection timing, and catalyst systems. That would help a lot, if not get rid of the intake carbon problem all together. On turbo charged engines it may have a slight issue with carbon which could be solved with a catch can . I'm a diesel technician and I remember when they first came out with egr on Cummins and it was a night and day difference on two M11 engines I was working on, the older engine no egr clean valves, the newer engine had egr with filthy valves and I still see the today . I see newer egr ISX engines with dirty valves, and old K19s in dresser loaders that's been runnning since the 70s with clean valves .
I have heard that Mini engines are even worse for developing GDI valve deposits. Other engines from the BMW group aren't much better. Sure, VVT makes a difference, but most modern 4 cylinders have it. I think it is all a matter of how well car companies implement it.
Ecoboost 2.3 @28k spotless. I just replaced the head gasket and the intake ports and valves were immaculate. I do have a water/methonal injection system, and catch can and use Amsoil signature series oil. So far so good. Head gasket popped from a bad head gasket design and I went lean from a failed senor. All good now though
BG fuel and air induction system service. The BG company has made impressive result claims, but I never seen a customer show results with bore scope. This service is only done at authorized service garages and cost approximately $100. This would be great cause I have never seen this video and have searched to exhaustion. Thanks!
if you want actual results from any of the products you test spray them directly into a warm engine where you insert the bore scope and wait 20 minutes then rescope....would love to see the results
GDI engines should have 2 injectors per cylinder but in the following way, one inside the chamber and another on top of the intake valve and problem solved.
Just get a Valvoline Easy-GDI treatment and be done with it, then stick with Chevron fuel. If that's a non-turbo GDI, go with Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w-20 + OEM filter and change at 6mo/5k miles. QSUD 5w-20 has a 7.1% NOACK volatility rating as per PQIA's Apr 15th, 2019 test and is Dexos 1 gen 2.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO so after all those tests which one give best results. i have read that polybutane amine PBA gives best results. but don't know in which cleaner i can find PBA. for making best results.
I’m not going to lie, I work on GDI engines everyday as a Kia tech, and that buildup you got looks seriously awkward. Is your catchcan baffled? Have you thought about venting it to the atmosphere instead of recirculating it?
Ford has port and DI injection in their new motors and their DI motors barely built up anything anyways. DI is vastly superior for specific torque output when turbocharged. In fact, DI is the only reason you can have a 10-11:1 compression turbocharged engine running on 87 octane reliably.
That’s probably the worst engine to do this test on, the fuel injector is literally pointed directly into the cylinder and not spraying on the back sides of the intake valves like a typical engine would. These valves gum up so bad because they don’t have a constant spray of gasoline on them keeping them clean. I’m pretty sure this product would work far better on a conventional type engine with the injectors actually being in the intake runners.
SUBSCRIBE & comment for your video idea put to the test!!!
Rislone
Soon
What was the mileage on the engine since you last attempted to clean the valves?
I try to always thousands of miles between test
How many miles on that engine at the time of this video ? I also have GDI and am a bit worried.
The proper way to do this on a GDI engine is to start your engine and drive it until it gets to operating temperature. Than add the fluid in short bursts AFTER the throttle body and MAF sensor. The brake booster line right on the intake manifold is the best spot. Keep your throttle at 2000-2500 RPM while spraying short bursts into the engine. Drain the can dry, this takes a few minutes as there is quite a lot in a can. Rev your engine a couple of times to pull the rest of the liquid into the intake manifold. Shut your engine off and wait one hour while the liquid soaks into the hot carbon deposits on the intake valves and intake port areas. After the 1 hour time limit, start the car and drive it out on the highway for at least 15 minutes giving it a good "Italian Tune-up" running it hard through the gears. Bear in mind that when you drive and rev that engine in this way, those valves are screaming and knocking all of the built up crap off of them. You wont BELIEVE how much crappy soot that will come blasting out of your exhaust(s)! DO this at every other oil change, I make that at 10,000 miles. I use CRC and not Amsoil and I and my Lexus intake valves and ports are very, very happy.
Very nice, but I heard the stealership can do the same thing, and only charge $200!
I like to do it the way you explained it but use 1/3 of the bottle at a time like the first time you get most of the billed up second time you get deeper to brake up more of the stubborn billed up and third time to panitrat more i feel like that's the better way to do it but it's going to take a good portion of the day to get it done.
If you have a direct injection engine with a turbo, can doing this process screw up the turbo?
@@kevingrantonic8812 No.
The problem with this method is it does not address the large carbon buildup in the intake runners and that's what affects performance the most. Once carbon buildup is past a certain point manual cleaning is the only solution. This can be labor intensive on some vehicles. Just a byproduct of direct injection.
The guy who invented gdi is the type of person to put pedals on a wheelchair.
Lol what should we test next
I can't entirely blame the buy who invented GDI. He might not have needed to do it if the EPA demand reductions in smog or increases in fuel economy.
When my mom was looking to get a car in 2015, I helped her get a 2011 Honda CRV. That was the last Honda CRV to be built without GDI.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO just like common rail diesel i would like to see a long term test on a GDi after manually cleaning the valves then doing an EGR delete along with the catch can you already have.
I'm not sure if it's true or not but I saw a video somewhere that says GDI was invented in 1902. Ooops, a little more searching and found Bosch created it for a truck engine in 1925.
😂
Easier to pull the vacuum line off of the brake booster going to the intake, and spray it in there.
Yes that's the best way but he doesn't listen anyway🤣
Where is the vacuum line on a Chevy Impala 3.6l direct injection?? Hoping you might know I can't seem to locate it so I only know of spraying into the throttle body
Dispensing the Power Foam this way might eliminate the need to remove the throttle body and clean it by hand?
"Spray as fast as u can" sprays slowly every few seconds.....
I try amsoil recently and spray consistently.
Check it out th-cam.com/video/y2BzM0bAx2o/w-d-xo.html
Lol hahaha
😂
Your engine is a carbon build up machine...lol. I've seen 4 test on the same engine
Shushashir111 I’d see a manufacturing company doing that but a lot of TH-camrs like to test just for the people, go watch Scotty Kilmor he’s been a mechanic for 50 years(?).
Im not saying he isn’t though...
He's been doing it on the same car, take it with a grain of salt. TH-camrs could make stuff up too. I could see if he is doing it on a different car but he is not.
Inherent issue with direct injection without port injection.
@@johncontreras9225 geez it gets that built up ??
Another problem with GDI is possible oil dilution with high pressure gasoline injection. Getting into the engines oil. Could cause problems
Dude, this CLEANED your intake manifold NOT the valves. Open the manifold and inspect
Today I cleaned up all the carbon on an Audi. I used a$30 Portable Sandblasting device (Harbor Freight) and a Box of (Fine 24 Grit) Walnut Shells. Removed the Intake Manifold 35min, Cover the Vehicle with bed sheets and only leave the port exposed. I scraped 75% with picks and finished the rest with walnuts. The dealer wants +$1000 for that service. There is no free lunch, you need to remove the intake and just clean it manually.
If tiny holes were drilled into the plastic intake manifold right over each intake valve then the foam could be sprayed right on one valve at a time and might get a better result. Plug holes afterward.
May have a good idea there.
great idea. 1/2 inch hole in each runner than seal it up with a threaded bolt and some nylon tape.
Found the mechanic that should have been an engineer lmao
Hey guy, 40+ yrs of Honda/Toyota hands on svc and business ownership here....Had issues with certain model Civics in the early 2000's....Would lose comp. BC rings being stuck w/carbon...Enter BG44k..& a metered hose into a central intake port. Running eng (aprox 2500 rpm) AT TEMP...OUTSIDE due 2 fumes...Induct FULL can ...continue 2 run 4 a bit....DONE! saved my clients beau coup $$$ now retired @ beach!!
@NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO - Directly from the AMSOIL Product Data Sheet for the Power Foam; "Directions
1. Protect painted surfaces and mass airflow sensors (MAF) from spray.
2. Ensure application is in a well-ventilated area.
3. Run engine to normal operating temperature and remove air cleaner
assembly.
4. While engine is running, spray Power Foam directly into throttle body
as fast as possible without stalling engine. It is common to have to
rev the engine above idle to facilitate this process. It is also common
to see white smoke coming out of your exhaust.
---> 5. Once the sound of the engine improves, spray enough Power Foam
to choke out the engine. Shut off engine and allow to sit for 10-15
minutes.
I want to see you soak those valves in E85 lets see what alcohol will do
Sure and tomorrow GERMANYs best claims only 30 seconds to clean valves
You seem to be using the same engine for all of these additives how is that fair judgment of them
I would be concerned with hardened chunks of carbon being removed damaging the valve seating surface although the only other option is to remove the intake manifold assembly and walnut blast the intake ports and valve tops.
My opinion for what it is worth.
Remove the throttle body and clean it beforehand . That engine is extremely dirty.
Bo Mason “Some” places charge a lot to walnut blast...
Can it be sprayed into the combustion valve through the car's bulges and then pulled out by means of an aspirator?
I think using E85 fuel would make a great video NIA. Regarding this amsoil additive, it did clean up the shaft of the valve a little bit.
Ok brother and tomorrow GERMANYs best claims 30 seconds to clean valves
E85? 85 gasoline and 15% ethanol?
For me only solution is, take it apart, remove head, wire brush all parts, piston heads, all valves and intake runners, new seals and put it together again.
Just another proof that all this "highly developped emission control systems" just go to far and do in the long run more bad than good. All emissions saved will be null and void after the necessary repair.
Same for me, i lap my valves every 2 to 3 oil changes, and clean the entire head while also replacing gaskets. But not everyone is able to do that. This foam thing is just for les mechanicaly enclined people to give them some piece of mind; as we could see, it didn't do that much.
Its probably illegal but maybe you could find someone who can reprogram the ECM and operate it without EGR.
The Amsoil did pretty good. However, that engine needs serious help!
I think this was a good video. And I like this channel.
The problem is it says right on the can to keep it off plastic parts so I can't help but wonder what it is doing to that intake system.
Years ago I took my Honda 1500 S to a Mechanic shop because of a severe rough idle, after 115 dollars and bullshit service, it ran no better . I remember an old plumber told me once to clean the engine pour automatic transmission fluid into the carburetor and gun the engine. So I did it a whole quart over 5-10 minutes. The entire neighborhood was engulfed in smoke, but the car ran 1000% better.
So I've watched 3 of your videos using different products on those filthy intake valves each product cleaned very little, I'm just wondering how each time yo've done this how can the engine valves look the same before using these cleaners. Something doesn't add up here. Logic would say before each cleaning the valves would progressively look cleaner and cleaner but they don't. Either your engine really pumps a lot of recirculated engine blow by to look amazingly filthy before each cleaning product. What gives? Also how do or where do you put that bore scope without removing the manifold?
Yes, something is defenately not on the up and up here. I smell a skunk.
This stuff dose work. You have to have to people 1 tapping the accelerator the other spraying constantly non stop no more than 2k rpm because you want this stuff to move as slowly as possible and then right at the end choke it out but leave at least 1/2 ounce left in the can and spay the rest after the engine dies. Let it sit 15 minutes then crank up stuff burn the power foam off. I've used this stuff 4 times and it works IF DONE RIGHT
How do you get the bore scope camera inside the plenum to see the valves ? Sorry if I missed something on that topic...
Exactly!!!
What if you had a tube on the spray can that was as long as the borescope and just sprayed directly onto the valves?
Take the intake off, do valves that are closed, get carb cleaner and zip ties bundled together and ram them around while spraying into each, rotate engine to close next valves, works great on VW 2.0 fsi.
consumer also need to put TOP TIER gasoline for their engine to keep them healthy (Detergent Gasoline Brand) to help prevent some of that build up. Good video
Detergents in gas do absolutely nothing to prevent carbon buildup in a GDI engine.
WHEN WILL PEOPLE LEARN THAT THIS IS TO HELP TAKE OFF SMALL AMOUNTS OF CARBON BUILD UP. THOSE INTAKE PORTS ARE F***ED YOU NEED TO WALNUT BLAST THEM. NOT ONLY THAT THIS HAS BEEN THE SAME VEHICLE ON ALL HIS VIDEOS LOL
Seems like you'll need to do 10 treatments in order to get any significant cleanliness.
Do you have a vedio on how you sneak in your camera cable. Thank you. N. J
best thing I have found to use that works well is a mix of carb cleaner and gas hooked to fuel rail
match regular fuel pressure pull fuel pump relay and run car on the carb cleaner, gas mix
as bad as your motor was tho only thing that will work is pulling the head and manually cleaning them
Products that claim to work?
That sounds good for a port fuel inj car. This is a Direct InJ engine. So anything introduced in the fuel rail does not touch the back of the valves. By the way , I also make concoctions of gas to run through my marine engine, Good job!
So what do you think happens when the chunky gunks fall inside the engine subsequently ?
Adam King that’s what I want know
Yeah, it doesn’t sound good to me.
Can it be sprayed into the combustion valve by means of car balks?
How good of a catch can did you use anyhow? I know there are expensive ones and cheap ones.
My Hyundia has 40,000 miles. Should i do this ? They make stuff for gas tanks too. ....i heard it does nothing
Yes a spray cleaner is much better otherwise it will not help the intake valves.just follow manufacturer's instructions. My newest video can provide valid information.
You are supposed to run it after 10-15 min to clean it, likely you will have lots of white smoke after a couple of minutes if you do
Yes i always drive highway speeds 10 or 15 minutes
Have done a review is berryman b12 can clean clogged injectors?
Where do you go into with bore scope to view the valves?
I was wanting to know this too!
Please shorten your videos. I don’t believe it’s necessary to include you spraying the can in its entirety and then some to effectively show the results of the product.
10 minute+ videos get extra adsense money. Gotta game the system to make $$$
He just showing how he had done it
do you clean the same car with different cleaners?
This is like a zit poppin video except for cars.
Great video! Props to you. I would lie to see a video about cleaning the intake by itself, like remove it from the car and cleaning it out with a degreaser like industrial ZEPP. see if that makes a difference in idle and over all performance!
you spray the most on the throttle body.
spray it through a vacuum hose.
then much more mist will end up on your valves then it will be better clean
try it once!
And also why not spray it directly into the intake manifold pcv after the throttle body where you put the borescope through so it goes directly over the valves
It goes over the valves already and GERMANYs best valve cleaner tomorrow claims to clean intake valves in 30 seconds so what do you think
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO Sound like a sham.
I understand what can we try next
Must of used umteen cleaners on this here beater
Take the air intake off and use a media blaster to clean it before it goes to the scrap ward
Seems like something you should do regularly before it ever gets to that level.
Brent Taylor Art Exactly and especially on a CDI engine...
Exactly should’ve never waited so long
Where do you stick the scope?
Only manual cleaning will do the job! 👍
I have had success with crc and seafoam
Or having a water injection system
If you open the valves and clean them manually with a plastic brush with the product, the results may be stronger
I'd like to see a small hole drilled on each of the intake runners at the corresponding location of each valve. This needs to only big enough for a spraying straw to fit thru. This way you could spray directly onto the valves. When finished install a plug (rubber) into the small holes you drilled to eliminate any un-metered air.
The cleaners already go over the valves but GERMANYs best tomorrow claims to clean valves in 30 seconds
That’s a great idea. Just don’t do it if the vehicle has any form of forced induction.
What would be the best test method
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO My thought would be with a warm engine spray valves let sit over night, drive normally and repeat next night until can or cans are empty. Newer engines, with duel injectors spray valves daily, just not 100% of the time. I'm thinking heat cycling and spraying might work better than just once spraying and cross you fingers...
Sound promising what about the test how can we add to it
The best way is to spray the valves and intake side of the head DIRECTLY and let it sit. Run it, burn it off. Do it again. You'll see better cleaning than valve three on all of them. Its best to do this before an oil change because it will get into the cylinders and into the oil.
It needs to foam at the intake valves, not the throttle body
It does the vacuum pulls it in thanks
Where do you think all that chemical goes?? Right past the valves.
Yes i agree what can we do to improve the test
NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO The test is fine people don’t understand how air flo works in an engine.
Yes true and how can we improve the test
Where do you enter the engine with your borescope?
Depends on the car you have
Not what he asked, where did you go in with the borescope on your vehicle?
Yes i need to know the vehicle to help but for my car a vacuum port
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO A vacuum port, to see 4 valves? I don't think so, try again.
Where do you insert the borescope cam to view the valves?
Depends on your particular vehicle a port or intake
Is very interesting, but have you considered how much damage you are causing in the catalytic converters? All that gunk is going some where.
I heard it burns off when you drive it at highway speeds after
Liqui moly valve clean, Amsoil Power Foam, CRC, Sea Foam etc...
None of these state whether or not you have to change your engine oil after cleaning the valves with their products, do we have to immediately change oil after the treatment? What do you think?
This seems like it's made for preventive maintenance before the crust build up.
Yes and preventive maintenance is key check out the Liqui moly valve clean.
I tested crc liqui moly and they had good results
It would be a LOT faster and efficient to take of the intake manifold, spray it directly in the ports, let it soak. Loosen it with a tooth brush or something similar and remove it with a syringe. Done this a few days ago on my Alfa Romeo 159 2.2JTS (direct injected ecotec II engine with an AR cyl. head). Used EGR cleaner for 5€, worked wonders. P.S: Never seen this much soot in a petrol engine (except VAG TFSI engines and they are the worst).
Thanks for sharing
Fine quality oil aswell as fuel system treatment
True
I assume you mean some fuel tank additive which is simply not how modern motors work. Hopefully you’ve stopped given bad advice over the years 😂
Would u do a test on egr cleaner sprays that go via intake to see if they can clean egr valves carbon since that's exhaust side after combustion I'm unsure if they even work at all
Yes i actually have one tomorrow for both intake and egr GERMANYs best claims only 30 seconds needed
will this work for a 2014 silverado 5.3 been wanting to that but haven't seen any videos .
Yes every 30000 if possible
AJ I have a 2016 and I've used the seafoam and noticed a slight improvement for a little while but not as good as I expected. I tried crc on my 1994 cobra tho and it worked very well but then again that motor was much dirtier. I'm going to try the amsoil next and see how well it does because I put amsoil 100% synthetic oil in my cobra when I did the first change since I've owned it and it was a 10 fold difference
Nate , I need to do the same thing , do I spray a few seconds at a time , or more ??????????
Follow manufacturer's instructions take you time spray short burst
NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO thats is NOT what the directions say to do. It says to spray it all at once as does ALL of these intake cleaners. You spray in short bursts against the directions listed by the products.
I want to see you use water inside the intake track after the engine is fully hot and see how well it cleans the valves.
I did that in a previous video check it out and let me know what you think.
Should be spraying fast enough to slow down the engine to get a good soak and then stall the engine with the spray
Most intake manifolds are plastic now. Why not drill and tap a threaded hole in each runner as close to the intake valve as possible. Install thread in bolts into the tapped holes. Then when it’s time to clean the valves the intake plug(s) for each cylinder can be removed individually so that the valve can get hit by the concentrated spray directly. Then shut the engine down and spray soak each valve and let them heat soak for a bit and then install plugs and drive it like you stole it.
I would like to know why you are not spraying 1/4 of an inch away from the throttle plate like the instructions say to? I understand that you want people to see the spray pattern. But a product only has an honest chance of working if it's applied correctly
does it burn oil
Can u please test steam cleaning machine?
Good idea i have tried water
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO make vibeo about steam soon please.
How could we make this
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO start the car, let it on idle,and remove hose from intake manifold. Then bring steam cleaning machine close to intake manifold and vacuum will pull in the steam. Car should be on working temperature.
Yes thanks for sharing with the NIA community
How many miles do you drive between tests? Did you notice any diference (while driving) in any of the products you used?
Some there is a noticeable difference i try not to be to opinionated because i dont want to promote any product but i drive thousands of miles between test as my job makes that easy so ideas for a new test?
THOSE valves are asking a lot for any liquid alone. Looks like the product will work well in KEEPING valves clean or just mild build up.
Yes a repeated use could help
That one is HEAVY on the carbon. May need a couple more cycles of cleaning.
The can states if it's really bad to soak the parts in the amzoil by removing it. The carbon clearly didn't soak at all
Run it in 3rd gear for 20 minutes on the highway at 4k rpm
Yeah i have tried this it helps some should we try Italian tune up
We're you put the camera to see the valves?
AUDY PEREZ in the exhaust tip?
A little constructive criticism here, I'd like to see you spray products more aggressively IE not in short bursts, only stopping the spray when the engine is about to die out say something close to 1000 rpms for example. When the engine clears out and is just about running clean but not quite near 2500 rpms apply cleaner in the same fashion repeating the process until can is emptied. This should totally saturate the valves giving cleaners the best possible chance of showing there merits. I would not be worried about hydrolock with these cleaners you'd be hard pressed to damage an engine with a foaming oil/solvent IMHO. For best application of cleaners I'd like to see you actuate the throttle with one hand and continuously spray an entire can even if full throttle is necessary to keep the engine from stalling. Hope you'll consider these techniques for future use, I do like the content please keep it up. 👍
Yeah thanks i understand and will see what can be done but if you see German cleaner i sprayed once half a second and left the idle below 2000 rpms and it died but the cleaner didn't say raise rpms but i thought as much. However i will try to see what can be done thanks alot
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO I think rpm need to be 2500+ I know the directions say different but I'm suggesting force feeding the engine. Thanks for the response I'll keep watching you've got a winner of a channel here, I'll be happy to see it keep evolving.
Thanks and ive got something special on the way i saw a project farm video today and saw it was similar to what i was doing and would already have out had the Chinese holiday thrown a wrench in my plan
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO if you mean he has a similar video to what you were making I'd say run what you brung, I'm sure your subs will be Interested in your take.
I appreciate it i invested a lot but im happy to do so and i will make mine as different as possible
They really should eliminate egr systems considering the technology they have to day with valve timing, injection timing, and catalyst systems. That would help a lot, if not get rid of the intake carbon problem all together. On turbo charged engines it may have a slight issue with carbon which could be solved with a catch can . I'm a diesel technician and I remember when they first came out with egr on Cummins and it was a night and day difference on two M11 engines I was working on, the older engine no egr clean valves, the newer engine had egr with filthy valves and I still see the today . I see newer egr ISX engines with dirty valves, and old K19s in dresser loaders that's been runnning since the 70s with clean valves .
Is it me or do I see more VWs with this problem than any other manufacturer?
Wouldn't more overlap in cam timing help?
Vvt does make a difference i know this Hyundai is still running.
I have heard that Mini engines are even worse for developing GDI valve deposits. Other engines from the BMW group aren't much better.
Sure, VVT makes a difference, but most modern 4 cylinders have it. I think it is all a matter of how well car companies implement it.
Ecoboost 2.3 @28k spotless. I just replaced the head gasket and the intake ports and valves were immaculate. I do have a water/methonal injection system, and catch can and use Amsoil signature series oil. So far so good. Head gasket popped from a bad head gasket design and I went lean from a failed senor. All good now though
BG fuel and air induction system service. The BG company has made impressive result claims, but I never seen a customer show results with bore scope. This service is only done at authorized service garages and cost approximately $100. This would be great cause I have never seen this video and have searched to exhaustion. Thanks!
Thank you and i just did a video on bg direct injection cleaner
if you want actual results from any of the products you test spray them directly into a warm engine where you insert the bore scope and wait 20 minutes then rescope....would love to see the results
Yes i allow a heat soak
GDI engines should have 2 injectors per cylinder but in the following way, one inside the chamber and another on top of the intake valve and problem solved.
It helped a little.
1:13 LOOK this is what government over regulation gets you.
Can you do a Ford F-150
Yes if never done it can be very beneficial so what can we try next
Also be hard on the motor when you first drive it after treatment to break everything loose.
This stuff is hard to find anywhere near me , always wanted to try it !
Yes i include links in many descriptions of videos to find more information and where you can get this
whay you don't injected the product in the valve directly
Sometimes pull the straw outside to show the spray pattern also i move straw a few inches from throttle plate
Just get a Valvoline Easy-GDI treatment and be done with it, then stick with Chevron fuel. If that's a non-turbo GDI, go with Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w-20 + OEM filter and change at 6mo/5k miles. QSUD 5w-20 has a 7.1% NOACK volatility rating as per PQIA's Apr 15th, 2019 test and is Dexos 1 gen 2.
no, amsoil signature series 5w20 is the only oil you need.
Looks like walnut blasting is the only way or a wire brush to mechanically remove the carbon...
Check out the crc vs seafoam video
how many test have you make on that same engine. carbon machine maker.
I purchased the vehicle for testing because of the issue and drive it many miles daily. What can we try next?
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO so after all those tests which one give best results. i have read that polybutane amine PBA gives best results. but don't know in which cleaner i can find PBA. for making best results.
please test ATF as valve intake cleaner.....
I’m not going to lie, I work on GDI engines everyday as a Kia tech, and that buildup you got looks seriously awkward. Is your catchcan baffled? Have you thought about venting it to the atmosphere instead of recirculating it?
Solution: Do not ever buy a vehicle with GDI - Port injection all the way.
Unfortunately it wont be a choice soon
NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO why? PI is way better.
All new car are going to direct injection
Ford has port and DI injection in their new motors and their DI motors barely built up anything anyways. DI is vastly superior for specific torque output when turbocharged. In fact, DI is the only reason you can have a 10-11:1 compression turbocharged engine running on 87 octane reliably.
Lexus also uses port and direct injection on certain models. Their 2.5 liter engine was plagued with carbon buildup using just direct injection.
Hey man you missed a spot!!!!!!!!!
What does WD40 do as valve cleaner? 🤔
And ONLY a manual cleaning will clean all of the deposits and safely. Search "RX Intake valve cleaning" to see video.
Completely ineffective test. The foam isn’t even getting past the butterfly
It may have worked better if you followed the directions. I have used it for over 40 years and have seen it work better.
That’s probably the worst engine to do this test on, the fuel injector is literally pointed directly into the cylinder and not spraying on the back sides of the intake valves like a typical engine would. These valves gum up so bad because they don’t have a constant spray of gasoline on them keeping them clean. I’m pretty sure this product would work far better on a conventional type engine with the injectors actually being in the intake runners.
Please try to use WAKO ' S FUEL-1.
Good suggestion
should be going back and forth from spraying to the tail pipe to show whats going on......good video
Yes typically i always do thanks