@@Tone_Of_Dials But I noticed that he contradicts his owns past videos with his new ones based on his video titles... Ex: "these are the SUVs to buy", the goes, "Don't buy these SUVs"! Smh.
Is there anything the government touches that doesn't turn to shit. An engine today has $10,000 of electronics and another $10,000 to keep it working over the life of the car. In Japan you can't even drive an old car.
On a GDI engine, a oil catch can between the PVC valve and intake manifold is highly recommended...A can of Seafoam poured slowly in a vacuum hose while the engine is running just before every oil change, will prevent carbon buildup...
@@Dudeman9339 I guess you are not familiar with manifold Injection cleaning. I've performed this service for over 20 years with no issues. You can either use the Seafoam spray with the long straw via the Throttle body or use the regular Seafoam bottle via a vacuum hose. Find a vacuum hose that goes to the manifold. Start engine and hold RPM near 2.5K with your helper. Now with the disconnected vacuum hose, S-L-O-W-L-Y pour the Seafoam. If you stalled the engine, you poured too fast. Re start the engine if you stalled it before adding any more. During this 10 or so minute process, you will see plenty of white smoke coming out of the tail pipe. Use the entire can and let the car idle for a minute or two and shut off for 15 minutes. Start car and let run for 5 minutes to burn any possible residual solvent. Now take the car for a safe "Spirited Drive" to again burn any more residual solvent. Don't be surprised of possible engine coughing during the drive. There are plenty examples on YT showing this entire process.
@@DIE2dayORelse Induction Cleaning has been around for decades. The important things are the cleaner used and the rate it is applied. Dealerships will do it for you for a hefty fee if you're not comfortable doing it yourself.
Speaking of using water to de-carbon your engine, I think it would be worthwhile investigating. When I was a young bloke back in the late 60's early 70's there were a heap of aftermarket water injection kits on the market (of course everything was carbies back in those days). It was supposed to increase power but as with all these magic things the results were subjective. However, it is common knowledge that if you have a blown head gasket that's letting coolant (water based liquid) into the combustion chamber, when you take the head off it's easy to identify the cylinder that is affected because it is often quite clean compared to the rest especially if it had been leaking for a while. The water injection systems on the market 'back in the day' were simple and used a water container attached to an adjustable valve that fed a small venturi. The amount of water could be adjusted, and there was never enough to create a compression lock. So if you have a car that has serious carbon buildup it may be worth looking into.
you can. they sell a mister fan with small tank (.25L). attach to air intake hose and set the fan on and let it do it's thing. Small doses come out and is continuous. I saw someone refill and do it 3 times while car runs. It won't do much for carbon buildup deposits.
Get a good recirculating oil catch can, And drain it as often as you need to. This will help greatly by condensation the vapors to liquids and trapping them in the can from going into your intake. Also change your PCV valves.
Hi I have direction injection . I've had (past weeks) rough idling and flat spots etc no knocking noises or tapping .t Would you say this is likely carbon issue ? It's had 1 Injector replaced new rad coolant sensor and therm. I've just replaced oil and filter . No rough idling yet but other night I had lots of flat spots in 2nd then picking up . On getting to b from a. Engine light came on steady . Next day it was off cheers
I throw a bottle of techron in my tank every couple of months as a preventative measure, to keep the injectors clean. In my previous life as an autoparts counterman, many mechanics swore by it. O take it seafoam helps in that area as well. Marvel Mystery is the old standby to add during an oil change as well. Again, many use seafoam there as well.
A piston soak is another great way to remove carbon, but again you have to be careful to get all the solvent and crud out before you fire up the engine to avoid hydro-lock (RIP engine) I just did a soak on my Matrix and literally removed a handful of carbon. My fuel trims went back to almost zero, my idle is perfect, and it cut my oil consumption by at least half :-)
@@Ggungaginga It's not like I just came up with the idea. It's been done successfully innumerable times. There was even a Saturn TSB for a piston soaking procedure to reduce oil consumption.
@@craigadamkelly Berryman B12 Chemtool and Marvel Mystery oil. One ounce of each for each piston. You can use other stuff, but make sure it's something somewhat viscous.
Guys, pouring a little water down the carb slowly worked a treat back in the day, but to be fair, my engine was a 425 cu in V8 which wasn't likely to hydro-lock short of dumping in the whole can at once. I've got to think if you have a much smaller engine your margin for error is a whole lot slimmer. Plus with a cast iron intake manifold, I've got to think that a lot of the water was turned to steam before it got into the cylinders. I'm thinking with a plastic intake manifold you aren't making much steam before you hit the intake valves.
I’ve always had success with Marvel Mystery Oil. I dump two bottles into my gas tank; it provides additional lubrication for the fuel pump, cleans the fuel injections, and it cleans up the pistons and combustion chambers. If I want a deep cleaning; I warm up the engine first and spray water mist directly into the intake. The steam from the water will also clean up the pistons; but you have to be careful not to dump too much water because it will hydrolock your engine and blow it up.
@@منصورالقويعي-ل7ق piston has drain back holes where oil rings are set. Most brands had them designed to get clogged up around 100k miles because if the car keeps running no one would buy new cars
Never tried it on a car but always use water mist to steam clean my lawn mover before changing the oil. Considering how clean the comp chamber of a failed head gasket gets I’m sure it would work a treat.
The other problem with using water to clean an engine not mentioned here is this: blow-by. You will end up with water in your crank case as if you had a blown head gasket, and probably more than you might expect too. I think Project Farm did a video on cleaning with water some time ago which revealed this problem.
Unless you have a heavy worn piston ring it's not a problem. The tiny amount of moister that may enter the crank case will be cooked out in no time. Moister will always work it's way in just do to condensation. The oil when at full running temp will heat up any water and it will evap out
I have been using the Lucas Oil Fuel Treatment on every fill up for the past 3 years and I have never had any carbon build up with my 2009 Civic, has about 68k miles and works like a charm
I managed to time th+e oil service on my scion tc to coincide with two trips down to LA and back up to the Bay Area. One way then stop did my business and an oil change and drove right back. Decarbon both sides of the pistons. The engine runs so smooth you could hardly hear it running.
This brother, RnW answered a lot of questions I've had for a long time. Although not so pronounced that I "just gots to know," but it's nice to understand the engineering expertise that always trickles down from the military. And hats off to Loveitdownunder 47 for additional insight.
I thought pre ignition/engine knock was caused by the build up of hot carbon igniting the mixture before the spark plug could. Not as you said, igniting the mixture several times after the plug does.
When I was a gullible newbie in my apprenticeship days I remember being sent to the parts department for a carbon brush to sweep the tappet clearances out of the sump....... 😬
Yep, I use the CRC cleaner as part of every oil change (about every 8000 miles) in my 2017 Honda Fit with the 1.5L direct injection engine. I also had a '91 chev cavalier that would regularly develop a knock due to combustion chamber buildup so I would drip about a pint of water into the intake of the running engine to create steam to blow out the carbon. Knock disappeared for about 3000-4000 miles until carbon built up again and I would repeat the process.
I have a easier ,better tried tested and proven solution for this problem. Turbofield Nano Treatment it is called . It treats the metal and not the liquids . It cleans ,polishes and fills the micro pores of the metal surface and repairs the surface inside of engine. No more new carbon deposits. More power more mileage and long long engine life extended to hundreds of thousands of miles. Less friction heat noise vibration harshness wear and tear and low emissions as well . Immediate results. Simple to use and cost very reasonable. I have used it on my Nissan Altima 2004 and it is at 3,85,000 kilometers and running like brand new. Never did any de carbonara used any such chemicals.
yea, I watched it till finish , looking your eyes I notice that you have not enough sleep (eye bags) i use to pour water a bit by bit while the throttle 2k RPM , I saw some youtuber spray water mist to intake vacuum. Thanks for sharing the video :)
@@robbydiesel9345 My father was a mechanic for 40 years. It was common to use water mixed with transmission fluid and spray that into carbureted vehicles for sticky valves. Sprayed it until motor bogged down. Lots of smoke. Effective as well. The original chemical clean for carbon buildup. PCV valve was generally bad on vehicle. Imagine it would still work if you consider sensors to dictate application.
This GDI carbon build up problem is the dirty little secret that almost no one is talking about. The only company's I know of that are using dual fuel injection are Toyota and Ford.
A bottle of Techron Concentrate will be safer and give you better results. Just dump it in your tank at the right dosage and drive it normally. There are tons of good solid data sets on this. I used to do that testing. It will also clean your intake valves and ports and injectors. Dirty intake valves can cost you 5% on peak power, Techron Concentrate can restore it. Just dump it in your tank and give it a couple of weeks to work gently and steadily. It's good stuff. One bottle should be good enough, but if there are any questions, just repeat and put in another bottle.
The EGR system is the number 1 reason for carbon buildup. As for oil dilution in GDI engines, DIYers are now using oil catch cans to prevent that. Anybody know how effective that is? P.S: To stealerships, GDI = Great Dealer Income. To us, GDI = Greatly Decreases Income.
Quick question professor.. Can seafoam clog your catalytic converter... Say you bought a car were the person didn't do regular maintenance.. And it might have a lot of carbon build up.. And you put seafoam in it... Will this cause another problem with the exhaust system, or should a person unbolt the exhaust and route it through another pipe, then apply the seafoam..
GDI? If it's new or below 35,000 miles spray will probably work if not.....Remove intake and walnut shell blast the intake, especially if it has a lot of miles (likely has never been cleaned) make sure valves are closed and rags are in the other intake holes (check for videos or pay someone to do it) walnut shell everywhere, even with shop-vac back up. After it is clean then the maintenance spray every 10,000 or so will do something. Also PCV catch can can stop a lot of the gunk from building up, check/empty it every oil change.
Excellent explanations....thanks! We mostly have Toyota's so carbon buildup isn't a big deal and everybody only fills up at Top Tier gas stations. My daughter does have a 2016 Mazda CX-5 that's a GDI (75,000 miles) so I'm concerned about it and will start using cleaner.
Hey man this is very informative. Back in the 70s I had a cortina with pinking which was the same faults as now with carbon buildup,with leaded fuels. Great channel as always
Any direct injection engine should have an oil separating catch can inline for the vent. It traps water, fuel, and oil from being vacuumed. Maybe not all of it but enough of it that the valves stay cleaner longer. Even with port injection the oil separator helps keep the throttle body cleaner longer.
You didn't mention an oil catch can. I have a Lincoln MKS Eco-boost AWD sedan. The 1st thing I did was to install a oil catch can on the car. Any GDI engine should have a oil catch can installed it filters all the gunk from blow bye from returning to the engine through the PCV valve to help reduce carbon build up. You don't need a expensive one you can find lesser expensive on eBay.
This is the most clear and insightful explanation on the carbon build up issue. Now I’m actually not afraid to buy a DI engine and use CRC as PM for it. Thanks so much.
You know that hes a good mechanic when he has harbor freight tools. US General and Pittsburgh. Not like those pesky annoying arrogant tool truck tool mechanics who is mostly concern on what tool brands they have rather than being a mechanic.
I used to work with Techs in Hawaii back in the 90's who used dry rice granules to bead blast the chambers. Just goose that throttle and trickle some rice thru the carb. No catalytic converter tho lol.
Love the video, however having the port injection system in addition to direct, is not there only to prevent carbon buildup. Port direction works better and more efficiently at lower engine speeds. Also, under certain conditions both systems will work simultaneously
I use to add about a 1/4 cup water to carburetor rev it a few times than add 1/4 cup marvel mystery oil to carb to relubricate. It worked. On older cars long ago.
In a DGI engine wouldn't it make sense to allow the PCV to vent into the engine compartment instead of allowing it to recirculate back into the intake manifold? Also a oil catch can may help prevent carbon build up.
My subie forester xt has had this issue since I bought it. I do the crc turbo cleaner every other oil change, oil separator on the pcv to intake and regular oil changes. I still get some stumbles here and there with the check engine light coming on for fuel trim too rich, nothing a little maf cleaner on the map sensor couldn't fix. Probably change the upstream o2 sensor as well.
Use my Turbofield Nano Treatment and you will be happy. 2 months ago treated a Subaru Tribeca which had 2,91,900 kilometers on it . During the dosing itself all the noise silenced out and engine got great power and pick up and within a a week or so showed a mileage improvement of 1.2liters per 100 kilometers and the owner came back with another Subaru of his .
I just pulled the Head on my 1993 Accord with 290K miles on it. I took me 6 hours to get all the carbon off the top of the pistons. I bought the car used with 160k to use for a work car. The first owner did not use quality Gas or oil. I am going to finish putting it back together tomorrow and am very curious about the results of my efforts.
@@BeeBoi456 I tried everything, nothing worked fast, I think I needed to use parts cleaner, let it soak then scrape it off. Very time consuming. you need to use something thick that will not evaporate quickly, cover with a plastic bag. The best way is to grind it off with a dremel, but that is hard with the pistons installed.
Hey man, I just bought a 2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor with 107k miles and 6,400 idle hours. The car runs and drives great. It idles a teeny bit rough in park or neutral. It doesn't leak/burn any fluids. The only issues I've had was replacing the thermostat which was cheap and easy. Unlike most used cop cars this car's paint is still shines like new with a few expected chips and scratches. I paid nearly $5,000 for this car. Do you think I got screwed?
He didn't mention it because catch cans don't work. If they did manufactures would install them rather than trying complex work around like duel injection.
Can you give a demonstration on a direct injection engine? I have a 2021 1.5L turbo and would like to stay ahead of this. I don't know which hose is vacuum
SN+ was a lower level of calcium as an additive because it was determined to be a large part of the LSPI (low speed pre ignition) problem that was breaking pistons, rings and connecting rods. It has more to do with octane variances than cleaning.. It was very short lived as API SP is already available and superseding it with ILSAC GF6A and ILSAC GF6B. LSPI explained th-cam.com/video/KUcZFeoYd5I/w-d-xo.html
Carbon in the intake is not caused by oil blowby around the piston rings. Blowby happens mostly in the other direction, fluids move from high pressure to low. Intake valve is closed during compression so blowby oil can't get up into the intake plenum and behind the valves. When intake valve is open, air is coming into the cylinder, so there's no way blowby can get into intake against the wind of intake air. Carbon deposits are actually caused by the PCV gases which are full of atomized oil from the crankcase which is full of oil, and crankshaft spinning to mix the oil into an oil fog. Crankcase pressure from piston ring blowby (in the other direction) combined with vacuum from the intake sucks the oil fog from crankcase into the intake via PCV valve and pipe. Catch-cans installed in the hose between PCV and intake will filter out most of the oil droplets and slow the accumulation of carbon on intake valves. Changing the oil regularly and using synthetic oil with higher burning temperature and less oil smoke in the crankcase slows the accumulation of carbon deposits in the intake.
Is it true when you try to fix already build up carbon with a liquid solution it will clog up your catalytic converted or you may have problem with it in short period of time after you done this procedure? Plus I watched a lot of videos about carbon cleaning solutions and they just don't work, I should say, to them to work you need to use them all the time. It is not a solution, it is more addition to your gasoline fill ups. Would love to hear your opinion. Thanks for the video. I also recommend to change text to this video to "How Carbon is building up in your engine" to prevent people from reporting from misleading.
hey I'm not a expert but I heard that when carbon reaches the catalytic converter it burns the carbon but you can do your own research as I do some times
Heat water in microwave oven till simmering put in spray bottle spray in throttle body engine warmed up at 2000-2500 rpm.... then smile.... about 4 ounces
If you follow the directions on the product that you use, you will be fine as long as you aren't using the product daily I don't think you will see a problem at all. Also water in a spray bottle will help. Like mentioned above.
I really like that you recommended Seafoam because it's one of the best DIY cleaners. Most of the time I'll just throw the whole can in the gas tank about twice a year
You've mentioned additives. Why do they mention, that one should put a bit of two stroke oil into the diesel to lubricate the parts like HP pump. Obviously even that brand diesel seems to be not good.
At 10:25 I could not understand which product you recommended to use when the soot accumulation had already built up inside the combustion chamber? Can you please give a link to the product or state the exact name?
All 130k are my miles. I have honestly done my best to maintain the vehicle. I try to use some of the best stuff out there. Redline oil change oil every 4-5k miles. I also use redline fuel injector cleaner every oil change. I just recently found out about gdi engines not getting the valves cleaned by fuel. (I use shell fuel). I keep hearing that if there is a lot of carbon build up it might not be good to do the crc or seafoam treatment because that hard carbon could break off and screw up the cat or an o2 sensor.
I do all fluid changes. Even transmission (when kia says its a closed transmission and you NEVER have to change tranny fluid!) every 30-40k miles. Coolant change. I try to stay up on maintenance as much as I can. Just didn't know enough about gdi engines i guess.
A quality synthetic oil with a low volatility # NOACK of 7% or less will help a lot to keep oil from passing through the PCV system and into the intake system. It's the oil vapor that gets burned onto the intake valves causing the carbon build up. OCC helps too.
i seafoam my subaru every 2-3 years. i use shell 91 always....barely any carbon build up showing through the smoke. goes white smoke for 5 mins then back to normal. poured it in gas tank, oil tank and vacuum hose.
Better use my Turbofield Nano Treatment and you will be happier than now. This treats metal and not the liquids . No more new carbon deposits as it seals the micro pores of metal surface. Result more power more mileage and long long engine life. Less friction heat noise vibration harshness wear and tear. Recently treated a Subaru Tribeca at 2,91,000 kilometers and got immediate results of noise vibration harshness reduction and best of all mileage improved by 1.2 liters per 100 kms. Power increased significantly.
I use a oil catch can and every time I change my oil I clean out the catch can and it have 3 or 4 ounces of clean motor oil and before I change my oil i spray intake and valve cleaner inside the intake manifold
NOTE: Use of an intake valve cleaner spray is verboten on turbo charged direct injection gasoline engines. Use of the valve cleaner spray will raise the temperature of the exhaust gases and possibly damage the turbocharger.
If you want to help a group of people, create a video on cleaning the intake ports/valves of any turbocharged, GDI Honda engine, such as the Civic Type R, the Accord turbo, the Civic Si, etc. I have an FK8 Type R and it sucks for doing this. There is zero realistic access for the injection of the cleaner. Thank you!
My wife has a 2001 Honda CRV. It has almost 200,000 miles on it. She drives it locally and once in awhile like 60-70 miles highway driving at 70 MPH. Her car has been beginning to misfire P1399 DTS code, and I changed the distributor and wires. Spark plugs are 1 year old and look new. I bought a borescope and looked down into the cylinders and saw a good amount of carbon on the piston crown. I then took a compression check ( cold) and they were between 205-210 PSI. I think that is somewhat high. I was expecting like 175-180 PSI. I was thinking of getting Pro Tec Carbon X1 and X2 to dissolve the carbon. Would this be a good course of action or is there another effective way without removing the head?
This video was recommended next to a Scotty Kilmer video titled "Never Carbon Clean Your Engine"... who do I believe? 😂
Scotty Kilmer is a flake.
Scotty is a badge snob and tool...
@@Tone_Of_Dials But I noticed that he contradicts his owns past videos with his new ones based on his video titles... Ex: "these are the SUVs to buy", the goes, "Don't buy these SUVs"! Smh.
Watch the Kilner video he doesn't actually recommend never carbon cleaning your engine. It's just clickbait.
@@102wingnut yeah, I think he's going for "Don't carbon clean your engine YOURSELF." But leaving out that last bit probably gets more views.
Im a technician myself and this is def one of the best thorough cause, symptom, and solution videos.
Is there anything the government touches that doesn't turn to shit. An engine today has $10,000 of electronics and another $10,000 to keep it working over the life of the car. In Japan you can't even drive an old car.
On a GDI engine, a oil catch can between the PVC valve and intake manifold is highly recommended...A can of Seafoam poured slowly in a vacuum hose while the engine is running just before every oil change, will prevent carbon buildup...
no... NOPE. Dont do this. You will ruin your car.
@@Dudeman9339 I guess you are not familiar with manifold Injection cleaning. I've performed this service for over 20 years with no issues. You can either use the Seafoam spray with the long straw via the Throttle body or use the regular Seafoam bottle via a vacuum hose. Find a vacuum hose that goes to the manifold. Start engine and hold RPM near 2.5K with your helper. Now with the disconnected vacuum hose, S-L-O-W-L-Y pour the Seafoam. If you stalled the engine, you poured too fast. Re start the engine if you stalled it before adding any more. During this 10 or so minute process, you will see plenty of white smoke coming out of the tail pipe. Use the entire can and let the car idle for a minute or two and shut off for 15 minutes. Start car and let run for 5 minutes to burn any possible residual solvent. Now take the car for a safe "Spirited Drive" to again burn any more residual solvent. Don't be surprised of possible engine coughing during the drive. There are plenty examples on YT showing this entire process.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 yes good points so long as you don't blast the sensor with the stuff it shouldn't hurt anything
@@DIE2dayORelse Induction Cleaning has been around for decades. The important things are the cleaner used and the rate it is applied. Dealerships will do it for you for a hefty fee if you're not comfortable doing it yourself.
Speaking of using water to de-carbon your engine, I think it would be worthwhile investigating. When I was a young bloke back in the late 60's early 70's there were a heap of aftermarket water injection kits on the market (of course everything was carbies back in those days). It was supposed to increase power but as with all these magic things the results were subjective. However, it is common knowledge that if you have a blown head gasket that's letting coolant (water based liquid) into the combustion chamber, when you take the head off it's easy to identify the cylinder that is affected because it is often quite clean compared to the rest especially if it had been leaking for a while. The water injection systems on the market 'back in the day' were simple and used a water container attached to an adjustable valve that fed a small venturi. The amount of water could be adjusted, and there was never enough to create a compression lock. So if you have a car that has serious carbon buildup it may be worth looking into.
you can. they sell a mister fan with small tank (.25L). attach to air intake hose and set the fan on and let it do it's thing. Small doses come out and is continuous. I saw someone refill and do it 3 times while car runs. It won't do much for carbon buildup deposits.
Get a good recirculating oil catch can, And drain it as often as you need to. This will help greatly by condensation the vapors to liquids and trapping them in the can from going into your intake. Also change your PCV valves.
3:38 "Engineers...." *hand motion* 😂 señor couldn't keep a straight face through the whole video, neither could I😂😂
Hahaha, I wasn't paying attention the first time thank you for pointing this out!
Funny, he wouldn't have a job if it wasn't for engineers haha
@@ItsMTTTTT Yea all these people shitting on Engineers... I guess it's easy to criticize someone for something you didn't design.
Hi I have direction injection . I've had (past weeks) rough idling and flat spots etc no knocking noises or tapping .t
Would you say this is likely carbon issue ? It's had 1 Injector replaced new rad coolant sensor and therm.
I've just replaced oil and filter . No rough idling yet but other night I had lots of flat spots in 2nd then picking up . On getting to b from a. Engine light came on steady . Next day it was off cheers
That's the international sign for an engineer operating a slide-rule.
I throw a bottle of techron in my tank every couple of months as a preventative measure, to keep the injectors clean. In my previous life as an autoparts counterman, many mechanics swore by it. O take it seafoam helps in that area as well. Marvel Mystery is the old standby to add during an oil change as well. Again, many use seafoam there as well.
useless in DI engines for valve cleaning.
The most informative video I’ve seen on carbon build up. Straight up. Touché sir
A piston soak is another great way to remove carbon, but again you have to be careful to get all the solvent and crud out before you fire up the engine to avoid hydro-lock (RIP engine) I just did a soak on my Matrix and literally removed a handful of carbon. My fuel trims went back to almost zero, my idle is perfect, and it cut my oil consumption by at least half :-)
@@Ggungaginga It's not like I just came up with the idea. It's been done successfully innumerable times. There was even a Saturn TSB for a piston soaking procedure to reduce oil consumption.
What solvent did you use to soak the pistons?
@@craigadamkelly Berryman B12 Chemtool and Marvel Mystery oil. One ounce of each for each piston. You can use other stuff, but make sure it's something somewhat viscous.
Good video. You can also get carbon build up from the EGR valve, especially with GDI.
Guys, pouring a little water down the carb slowly worked a treat back in the day, but to be fair, my engine was a 425 cu in V8 which wasn't likely to hydro-lock short of dumping in the whole can at once. I've got to think if you have a much smaller engine your margin for error is a whole lot slimmer. Plus with a cast iron intake manifold, I've got to think that a lot of the water was turned to steam before it got into the cylinders. I'm thinking with a plastic intake manifold you aren't making much steam before you hit the intake valves.
I’ve always had success with Marvel Mystery Oil. I dump two bottles into my gas tank; it provides additional lubrication for the fuel pump, cleans the fuel injections, and it cleans up the pistons and combustion chambers. If I want a deep cleaning; I warm up the engine first and spray water mist directly into the intake. The steam from the water will also clean up the pistons; but you have to be careful not to dump too much water because it will hydrolock your engine and blow it up.
MMO is great! HHO or E85 cleans your engine.
Where would the gunk go? I read a comment that said it went inside the piston seals and their car started burning more oil
Products like crc, is it better to use it before or after a oil change?
@@منصورالقويعي-ل7ق piston has drain back holes where oil rings are set. Most brands had them designed to get clogged up around 100k miles because if the car keeps running no one would buy new cars
Never tried it on a car but always use water mist to steam clean my lawn mover before changing the oil. Considering how clean the comp chamber of a failed head gasket gets I’m sure it would work a treat.
The other problem with using water to clean an engine not mentioned here is this: blow-by. You will end up with water in your crank case as if you had a blown head gasket, and probably more than you might expect too. I think Project Farm did a video on cleaning with water some time ago which revealed this problem.
I think after using these products it's probably best to change the oil.
Unless you have a heavy worn piston ring it's not a problem. The tiny amount of moister that may enter the crank case will be cooked out in no time. Moister will always work it's way in just do to condensation. The oil when at full running temp will heat up any water and it will evap out
I have been using the Lucas Oil Fuel Treatment on every fill up for the past 3 years and I have never had any carbon build up with my 2009 Civic, has about 68k miles and works like a charm
Do 09 civics have gdi?
@@paulmattle6683 I don’t believe that the R18A engine has GDI
I managed to time th+e oil service on my scion tc to coincide with two trips down to LA and back up to the Bay Area. One way then stop did my business and an oil change and drove right back. Decarbon both sides of the pistons. The engine runs so smooth you could hardly hear it running.
This brother, RnW answered a lot of questions I've had for a long time. Although not so pronounced that I "just gots to know," but it's nice to understand the engineering expertise that always trickles down from the military. And hats off to Loveitdownunder 47 for additional insight.
I'm sure glad I have a Camry with the dual port and gdi engine.
yawn
@@BenState here's a pillow for you 😴
@@TheTallMan50 Hahah getting trolled by the Camry-crew. Nice. A very nice outcome indeed.
@@BenState The entire crew thanks you. We do our best.
Makes the engine more complicated and expensive to repair than it has to be, but being a Toyota hopefully it will be reliable long term.
I thought pre ignition/engine knock was caused by the build up of hot carbon igniting the mixture before the spark plug could. Not as you said, igniting the mixture several times after the plug does.
When I was a gullible newbie in my apprenticeship days I remember being sent to the parts department for a carbon brush to sweep the tappet clearances out of the sump....... 😬
Greetings and appreciation from Saudi Arabia 🇸🇦
Yep, I use the CRC cleaner as part of every oil change (about every 8000 miles) in my 2017 Honda Fit with the 1.5L direct injection engine. I also had a '91 chev cavalier that would regularly develop a knock due to combustion chamber buildup so I would drip about a pint of water into the intake of the running engine to create steam to blow out the carbon. Knock disappeared for about 3000-4000 miles until carbon built up again and I would repeat the process.
I have a easier ,better tried tested and proven solution for this problem. Turbofield Nano Treatment it is called . It treats the metal and not the liquids . It cleans ,polishes and fills the micro pores of the metal surface and repairs the surface inside of engine. No more new carbon deposits.
More power more mileage and long long engine life extended to hundreds of thousands of miles.
Less friction heat noise vibration harshness wear and tear and low emissions as well . Immediate results.
Simple to use and cost very reasonable.
I have used it on my Nissan Altima 2004 and it is at 3,85,000 kilometers and running like brand new. Never did any de carbonara used any such chemicals.
yea, I watched it till finish , looking your eyes I notice that you have not enough sleep (eye bags)
i use to pour water a bit by bit while the throttle 2k RPM , I saw some youtuber spray water mist to intake vacuum.
Thanks for sharing the video :)
Saw that video too, thinks its bad your playing with fire, play at your own risk lol water shouldnt be in an engine period
@@robbydiesel9345 My father was a mechanic for 40 years. It was common to use water mixed with transmission fluid and spray that into carbureted vehicles for sticky valves. Sprayed it until motor bogged down. Lots of smoke. Effective as well. The original chemical clean for carbon buildup. PCV valve was generally bad on vehicle. Imagine it would still work if you consider sensors to dictate application.
@3:56 Those are Toyoda's engines with direct and port injection like Those in the GT86, the Lexus IS 350 or Toyoda Crown Athlete GRS 184. :)
Can a oil catch can will help ?
This GDI carbon build up problem is the dirty little secret that almost no one is talking about. The only company's I know of that are using dual fuel injection are Toyota and Ford.
Hyundai Smartstream engines too.
@@ThisGuyRides Good to know thanks
Typically you just add a catch can and the problem is solved. Mostly solved I do run Marvel's in the gas as well.
Take out spark plugs and add carbs cleaner in cylinder. Add carbs cleaner in hose pcv and start engine. This method clearly everything carbon.
A bottle of Techron Concentrate will be safer and give you better results. Just dump it in your tank at the right dosage and drive it normally. There are tons of good solid data sets on this. I used to do that testing. It will also clean your intake valves and ports and injectors. Dirty intake valves can cost you 5% on peak power, Techron Concentrate can restore it. Just dump it in your tank and give it a couple of weeks to work gently and steadily. It's good stuff. One bottle should be good enough, but if there are any questions, just repeat and put in another bottle.
Sadly it doesn’t work on cleaning the intake valves on DI or GDI engines.
And how about the oil catch can?
You beat me to it. 👍
Are cheap ones worth it? I've got a Honda J35 and it seems to have blowby problems.
it helps but doesn't prevent this problem...
@@atticstattic Another maintenance item and can ruin your engine if engine inhales an oil gulp..
It’s impossible to catch all aerosols of oil
The EGR system is the number 1 reason for carbon buildup.
As for oil dilution in GDI engines, DIYers are now using oil catch cans to prevent that. Anybody know how effective that is?
P.S:
To stealerships, GDI = Great Dealer Income.
To us, GDI = Greatly Decreases Income.
Quick question professor.. Can seafoam clog your catalytic converter... Say you bought a car were the person didn't do regular maintenance.. And it might have a lot of carbon build up.. And you put seafoam in it... Will this cause another problem with the exhaust system, or should a person unbolt the exhaust and route it through another pipe, then apply the seafoam..
Glad you are back doing videos...that’s awesome 👏🏼
Water methonal injection helps clean things up as well. Also helps a lot with direct injection,keeps the carbon at Bay on the intake valve.
GDI? If it's new or below 35,000 miles spray will probably work if not.....Remove intake and walnut shell blast the intake, especially if it has a lot of miles (likely has never been cleaned) make sure valves are closed and rags are in the other intake holes (check for videos or pay someone to do it) walnut shell everywhere, even with shop-vac back up. After it is clean then the maintenance spray every 10,000 or so will do something. Also PCV catch can can stop a lot of the gunk from building up, check/empty it every oil change.
Why dont the just return "blow by" gas directly to the cylinder the same as the fuel instead of the intake manifold ?
thoughts on soaking the pistons - while in the engine- overnight? (vacuuming out the Berrymans before starting). Ive seen some vids on this method.
You are so very correct. Maintenance is the key to controlling valve carbon buildup. Be diligent or you will have problems.
Is there any type of gasoline engine, that does not have carbon buildup? (past or present)
What about the ‘italian tuneup’
I really enjoy the content and format of this channel and I doubt I could change a tire. And oh my god RnW, 800,000+ subs!!! Nice work sir!
Excellent explanations....thanks! We mostly have Toyota's so carbon buildup isn't a big deal and everybody only fills up at Top Tier gas stations. My daughter does have a 2016 Mazda CX-5 that's a GDI (75,000 miles) so I'm concerned about it and will start using cleaner.
Hey man this is very informative. Back in the 70s I had a cortina with pinking which was the same faults as now with carbon buildup,with leaded fuels. Great channel as always
Any direct injection engine should have an oil separating catch can inline for the vent.
It traps water, fuel, and oil from being vacuumed. Maybe not all of it but enough of it that the valves stay cleaner longer.
Even with port injection the oil separator helps keep the throttle body cleaner longer.
Would Sea Foam or CRC valve cleaner potentially damage or clog the catalytic converter?
Anyone owning a gm with a 3.6 stay away from ethanol gas gm has a bulletin on ethenol screwing up the high pressure fuel pump
You didn't mention an oil catch can.
I have a Lincoln MKS Eco-boost AWD sedan.
The 1st thing I did was to install a oil catch can on the car.
Any GDI engine should have a oil catch can installed it filters all the gunk from blow bye from returning to the engine through the PCV valve to help reduce carbon build up. You don't need a expensive one you can find lesser expensive on eBay.
This is the most clear and insightful explanation on the carbon build up issue. Now I’m actually not afraid to buy a DI engine and use CRC as PM for it.
Thanks so much.
You know that hes a good mechanic when he has harbor freight tools. US General and Pittsburgh. Not like those pesky annoying arrogant tool truck tool mechanics who is mostly concern on what tool brands they have rather than being a mechanic.
I used to work with Techs in Hawaii back in the 90's who used dry rice granules to bead blast the chambers. Just goose that throttle and trickle some rice thru the carb. No catalytic converter tho lol.
We used to call this "blowing the soot" out of it. It didn't do anything to put in a fuel additive and drive like hell, but it was fun.
Love the video, however having the port injection system in addition to direct, is not there only to prevent carbon buildup. Port direction works better and more efficiently at lower engine speeds. Also, under certain conditions both systems will work simultaneously
So
I got a 96 Buick I just use high test gas to compensate for the extra carbon yes I use sea foam once a year
I use to add about a 1/4 cup water to carburetor rev it a few times than add 1/4 cup marvel mystery oil to carb to relubricate. It worked. On older cars long ago.
3:38 I totally agree with you.
a lot of reviews say that seafoam doesnt work... can you talk about that?
In a DGI engine wouldn't it make sense to allow the PCV to vent into the engine compartment instead of allowing it to recirculate back into the intake manifold? Also a oil catch can may help prevent carbon build up.
My subie forester xt has had this issue since I bought it. I do the crc turbo cleaner every other oil change, oil separator on the pcv to intake and regular oil changes. I still get some stumbles here and there with the check engine light coming on for fuel trim too rich, nothing a little maf cleaner on the map sensor couldn't fix. Probably change the upstream o2 sensor as well.
Use my Turbofield Nano Treatment and you will be happy. 2 months ago treated a Subaru Tribeca which had 2,91,900 kilometers on it . During the dosing itself all the noise silenced out and engine got great power and pick up and within a a week or so showed a mileage improvement of 1.2liters per 100 kilometers and the owner came back with another Subaru of his .
I just pulled the Head on my 1993 Accord with 290K miles on it. I took me 6 hours to get all the carbon off the top of the pistons. I bought the car used with 160k to use for a work car. The first owner did not use quality Gas or oil. I am going to finish putting it back together tomorrow and am very curious about the results of my efforts.
What method did you use to clean it with? Update us please
@@BeeBoi456 I tried everything, nothing worked fast, I think I needed to use parts cleaner, let it soak then scrape it off. Very time consuming. you need to use something thick that will not evaporate quickly, cover with a plastic bag. The best way is to grind it off with a dremel, but that is hard with the pistons installed.
Well done, Greetings from Egypt.
Merhaba!
LeverPhile 😜👍
@@dr.mohamedaboomar3031 That's the only word I know ... lol ... cheers!
I have been looking for a video that gives detail into carbon build up. Thank you
Hey man, I just bought a 2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor with 107k miles and 6,400 idle hours. The car runs and drives great. It idles a teeny bit rough in park or neutral. It doesn't leak/burn any fluids. The only issues I've had was replacing the thermostat which was cheap and easy. Unlike most used cop cars this car's paint is still shines like new with a few expected chips and scratches. I paid nearly $5,000 for this car. Do you think I got screwed?
Dirty injector. Dirty air filter. Bad spark plugs.
sea foam actually sells a can with a nozzle to spread into your air duct where your air filter is on the engine it's a long tube and a spray can
You did not mention about installing a oil catch can and how well it function.
He didn't mention it because catch cans don't work. If they did manufactures would install them rather than trying complex work around like duel injection.
Bro 3:38 had me rolling. Never sell out homie! You get all the algo things just for that.
Good presentation-- clearly explained, with many graphic images which summarized your text.
Thumbed UP and subscribed.
can you recommend best oil for GDI engine
BG makes a good product to clean valves. You can also use oven cleaner if you pull the intake manifold and apply directly. Its not too hard.
Maybe if you have a really old vehicle. Anything 1980s and newer is gonna be a bitch to pull the intake, just to spray some carbon cleaner
CRC gasket remover , strips carbon off really well , good to use if you have intake manifold off .
Can you give a demonstration on a direct injection engine? I have a 2021 1.5L turbo and would like to stay ahead of this. I don't know which hose is vacuum
Also valve guide seals are important too.
extremely well explained thanks alot >>>wish u the best from morocco
How about installing an oil Catch Can? To lower carbon build-up?
What causes excessive carbon buildup on one side of a LS motor driver side
Oil catch can on GDI is some help.
It's my understanding that the oil with API SERVICE "SN PLUS" is the oil designed to fight carbon build up from direct injection.
SN+ was a lower level of calcium as an additive because it was determined to be a large part of the LSPI (low speed pre ignition) problem that was breaking pistons, rings and connecting rods. It has more to do with octane variances than cleaning.. It was very short lived as API SP is already available and superseding it with ILSAC GF6A and ILSAC GF6B. LSPI explained th-cam.com/video/KUcZFeoYd5I/w-d-xo.html
5:22 awesome info on Carbon Build up and engine knock..
Carbon in the intake is not caused by oil blowby around the piston rings. Blowby happens mostly in the other direction, fluids move from high pressure to low. Intake valve is closed during compression so blowby oil can't get up into the intake plenum and behind the valves. When intake valve is open, air is coming into the cylinder, so there's no way blowby can get into intake against the wind of intake air. Carbon deposits are actually caused by the PCV gases which are full of atomized oil from the crankcase which is full of oil, and crankshaft spinning to mix the oil into an oil fog. Crankcase pressure from piston ring blowby (in the other direction) combined with vacuum from the intake sucks the oil fog from crankcase into the intake via PCV valve and pipe. Catch-cans installed in the hose between PCV and intake will filter out most of the oil droplets and slow the accumulation of carbon on intake valves. Changing the oil regularly and using synthetic oil with higher burning temperature and less oil smoke in the crankcase slows the accumulation of carbon deposits in the intake.
I love u better than SCOTTY KILMER
Is it true when you try to fix already build up carbon with a liquid solution it will clog up your catalytic converted or you may have problem with it in short period of time after you done this procedure? Plus I watched a lot of videos about carbon cleaning solutions and they just don't work, I should say, to them to work you need to use them all the time. It is not a solution, it is more addition to your gasoline fill ups. Would love to hear your opinion. Thanks for the video.
I also recommend to change text to this video to "How Carbon is building up in your engine" to prevent people from reporting from misleading.
hey I'm not a expert but I heard that when carbon reaches the catalytic converter it burns the carbon but you can do your own research as I do some times
Heat water in microwave oven till simmering put in spray bottle spray in throttle body engine warmed up at 2000-2500 rpm.... then smile.... about 4 ounces
If you follow the directions on the product that you use, you will be fine as long as you aren't using the product daily I don't think you will see a problem at all.
Also water in a spray bottle will help. Like mentioned above.
I really like that you recommended Seafoam because it's one of the best DIY cleaners. Most of the time I'll just throw the whole can in the gas tank about twice a year
Run your vehicle out of gas and put 50/50 seafoam and gas in the tank for a mega clean
The bottle reccomends an ounce per gallon if I'm not mistaken.
You've mentioned additives. Why do they mention, that one should put a bit of two stroke oil into the diesel to lubricate the parts like HP pump. Obviously even that brand diesel seems to be not good.
At 10:25 I could not understand which product you recommended to use when the soot accumulation had already built up inside the combustion chamber? Can you please give a link to the product or state the exact name?
With GDI your main source of carbon build up comes from the EGR system
thats what he said
@@BenState He said PCV.
@@VanillaWahlberg do the same thing
with oil droplets filling in the porous structure of the carbon to create a very dense and possibly hard deposit.
@@scottkraus889 evidence
Would you clean the carbon on a 2015 kia optima gdi engine with 130,000 miles and it's never been done?
I wanna know should we ever clean the car engine of the 2015 Kia optima with 200,000 miles
How much do you love your car? Is the question. How many of those are your miles?
All 130k are my miles. I have honestly done my best to maintain the vehicle. I try to use some of the best stuff out there. Redline oil change oil every 4-5k miles. I also use redline fuel injector cleaner every oil change. I just recently found out about gdi engines not getting the valves cleaned by fuel. (I use shell fuel). I keep hearing that if there is a lot of carbon build up it might not be good to do the crc or seafoam treatment because that hard carbon could break off and screw up the cat or an o2 sensor.
I do all fluid changes. Even transmission (when kia says its a closed transmission and you NEVER have to change tranny fluid!) every 30-40k miles. Coolant change. I try to stay up on maintenance as much as I can. Just didn't know enough about gdi engines i guess.
for 10k miles, do 1k oil changed. this will clean everything inside of your engine. use cheap oil
If you ever need a sea change from your Avocado Garage you would make a great teacher at an Automotive school.
02:30 blowby gas circulation path cause carbon buildup on intake valve and seat
I use a catch can on the PVC side to separate the oil from vacuum air into the intake system.
A quality synthetic oil with a low volatility # NOACK of 7% or less will help a lot to keep oil from passing through the PCV system and into the intake system. It's the oil vapor that gets burned onto the intake valves causing the carbon build up. OCC helps too.
Let's say I buy a brand new car with a GDI engine. Will putting a Catch Can between/in place of the PCV Valve Hose trap/prevent carbon deposits 100%??
i seafoam my subaru every 2-3 years. i use shell 91 always....barely any carbon build up showing through the smoke. goes white smoke for 5 mins then back to normal. poured it in gas tank, oil tank and vacuum hose.
Better use my Turbofield Nano Treatment and you will be happier than now. This treats metal and not the liquids . No more new carbon deposits as it seals the micro pores of metal surface. Result more power more mileage and long long engine life.
Less friction heat noise vibration harshness wear and tear.
Recently treated a Subaru Tribeca at 2,91,000 kilometers and got immediate results of noise vibration harshness reduction and best of all mileage improved by 1.2 liters per 100 kms. Power increased significantly.
Seafoam incredible stuff really did the trick especially after 2nd can.I might get a 3rd can.
I use a oil catch can and every time I change my oil I clean out the catch can and it have 3 or 4 ounces of clean motor oil and before I change my oil i spray intake and valve cleaner inside the intake manifold
Toyota/Lexus GDI engine had dual injectors since 2006.
I know I'm old school, but how can I get the top of the pistons clean on a carbureted engine? I have a 1970 C10 with 350 Chevy motor
How about walnut blasting the back of the intake valves on GDI engines?
Oil catch can, could it be a solution? Greetings from Aruba.😊
NOTE: Use of an intake valve cleaner spray is verboten on turbo charged direct injection gasoline engines. Use of the valve cleaner spray will raise the temperature of the exhaust gases and possibly damage the turbocharger.
Not true.
So my next car should be duel injection right?
Now would you recommend a turbo or NA?
I imagine NA would be more reliable.
If you want to help a group of people, create a video on cleaning the intake ports/valves of any turbocharged, GDI Honda engine, such as the Civic Type R, the Accord turbo, the Civic Si, etc. I have an FK8 Type R and it sucks for doing this. There is zero realistic access for the injection of the cleaner. Thank you!
My wife has a 2001 Honda CRV. It has almost 200,000 miles on it. She drives it locally and once in awhile like 60-70 miles highway driving at 70 MPH. Her car has been beginning to misfire P1399 DTS code, and I changed the distributor and wires. Spark plugs are 1 year old and look new. I bought a borescope and looked down into the cylinders and saw a good amount of carbon on the piston crown. I then took a compression check ( cold) and they were between 205-210 PSI. I think that is somewhat high. I was expecting like 175-180 PSI. I was thinking of getting Pro Tec Carbon X1 and X2 to dissolve the carbon. Would this be a good course of action or is there another effective way without removing the head?