Fixing A Toro Mower That Leaks Oil
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
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model number : 20371
Serial Number : 312141331
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Thanks for watching. This mower has a serious oil leak and it seems to happen to this particular engine quite often.
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
fantastic thinking about the compression release. It never donned on me that if the compression is low to begin with that the compression release may lower it so it wont start. I love learning something new every day and thank you for that.
I appreciate the way you put that. Thank you
@@HomeGaragechannel how to replace Arm Pivot Rear for Toro M 20332 S 311087676 ? thanks
Nicely done yet again!! I would not have adjusted the compression release mechanism as you siad, the motor is already worn down. It is always interesting to watch you figure out your plan of attack. Looking forward to the sequels!!! 😁
thank you and yes it was not a great idea in retrospect.
Had a mower project I almost gave up on, but ultimately was able to fix. The low compression on your mower was a concern. I love Koehler engines and was surprised you had so much trouble with it. Thanks for producing a video that challenges us subscribers to not give up easily to difficult projects.
no problem and thank your time!
I could use some help with a problem on an engine I have just like this one. So we have a Toro mower with a Kohler engine and when I brought it out at the start of this season to use it I had an accident with it. Someone else had used it before me and had adjusted the wheel height too low and I didnt notice, so after getting a few feet it went over some uneven ground and the blade hit the dirt and stopped the engine, it was hurt. It would start and run, but it puffed some black smoke a bit and when I tried mowing it worked ok until I got to grass that was slightly longer and thicker, then it bogged down and wanted to shut off. It kept on like that. Long story short, the crankshaft was bent and the blade adapter was broken. I replaced all the broken parts, including the crankshaft. When inside the engine, the cylinder wall and piston looked great. After I put it all back together, it started good and ran ok after it yet again let out black smoke. I tried mowing with it and it was exactly the same as before I had started, it would bog down when using the self propel or cutting long grass. I did a compression test with a drill and not the pull rope and it read 160 psi, which is great, so Im hoping the issue isnt the engine. Before I did the crankshaft job, I checked the carb and it was crystal clean inside. I also regapped the coil. At this point Im a bit stumped and I could really use some help or advice.
Have you checked the status of the flywheel's shear key? That's imperative in the scenario you described (though you probably would have noticed it during the crankshaft replacement). A sheared key will cause improper ignition timing, potentially causing the symptoms you described.
sure have you done a leak down test to confirm the valves are not leaking at their seats?
Fine job so far and waiting on the next one Happy weekend!
Thank you Sir!
@@HomeGaragechannel Likewise, Pal!
I have this exact same machine. Bought it in 2016 and it still starts on the first or second pull. I use non-ethanol fuel and change the oil and air filter every spring.
nice work!
Those are solid decks. Good foundation for engine swap. Paint still nice too.
Yes they are
@@HomeGaragechannel u r spraying gas?. u don't use starting fluid?
I know I'm no expert, but what about piston and piston ring wear? Make sure the bore isn't terribly scratched up or gouged. But that means having to take apart the whole engine. It almost looks like it could need a new compression release or new camshaft in general, but that adds up. Sometimes you can't win it all. At least you're trying.
you are correct the ring wear on this one is extensive due to running while low on oil. This one will need to be torn down, and inspected when the season is over.
this lawnmower is in good hands
thank you!
Love your stuff. Been watching all your vids lately.
I really do appreciate it!
I remember when Kholer made great engines 😢
Dont they still?
I hear ya.
time has a way of "thinning" things out, so the durability factor is not there anymore
@@HomeGaragechannel I remember the old cast iron 301's. GRACIOUS how tough.
Great job
thank you!
At least where I live taking that much time to fix a mower is a no win ! Just can't get enough for them 🤷 But if you got the time and know how then of course go for it 👍 Can't wait for round two !
this mower was destined to never be sold, it was going to be used in the rougher part of the property.
I think you did everything good thank you for the video
I tried, and don't worry, I don't plan on selling the mower after all this work
I think after that compression test I would have been 50/50 on the fence about just getting the carburetor adjusted in the valve clearance and then giving it at a discount. Just hoping I at least broke even on the deal
I wish I had done what you said but the saga only goes on with this one.
Thanks mate 👍
No problem 👍
great video
Glad you enjoyed it
OK, Ive been wanting more engine, 2nd level work, replacing piston or upper half, I know its not cost efficient but I wanna know how these things work .....this vid was great ...nice and advanced and let me know more to do
thank you, I was hoping someone would like to see this kind of video
Wayyy over my head on this one. Guess that’s why guys like you are out there. Looks like this one’s going in the bin!
I don't like dealing with this kind of stuff either, but it happens from time to time. Thanks for your time!
It might be different because I am in Canada but may i ask what app(s) you use for finding stuff?
Sure, I use FB marketplace and Craigslist
So I was watching this last night thinking "hmmm, I haven't had a leaking sump gasket yet on a Kohler" and I'll be damned......I had this exact issue on one today! The gasket was broken in the exact same spot, too! I thought mine was gonna be an easy fix, since I put a spark plug in it (it was missing) and it started right up with starting fluid and stayed running - I did have to add oil, but one of the people I get mowers from does pickups for a local town and they require fluids to be drained before pickup. I assume it was just that, until this morning I was like "where did the oil go?!?" and saw fresh clean oil lubricating the exterior of the sump lol. I didn't have a replacement gasket, so just used some motoseal gasket maker. Surprised a new gasket is only like $5 until you add the $10 shipping....
yes it seems to happen more often to this engine than any other i work on. It's quite strange
@@HomeGaragechannel I'll have to keep that in mind. I did struggle a bit getting the sump off the crankshaft on mine. I tried cleaning up as best I could before, but had to use a small sledge hammer to hit the end of the crank while holding the sump from inside with my hand. I was able to clean the crank more after that, and it slid back on nicely. I do have a PowerMore (Chinese engine) that also had a leaking sump gasket, right in the front as well. I must have nudged something out of position though, as when I re-assembled, the engine went straight to running at a catastrophic RPM. It's sitting in my "will mess with this later" pile.
Yes,I would've left the compression release mechanism on the camshaft alone then focused on looking for why the compression is low.
I know that the spark plug looked fouled up but I would've probably done a wet compression test as well & I would've adjusted the valve clearance to make sure that it's not set too tight & holding the valves open.
The rings are probably worn out as well,I would throw a new set of rings in if that's the cause of the loss of compression despite having to add that cost to the price of the lawnmower when it comes time to sell it !
yes valves were checked and the ring wear was the issue. Don't worry this mower wasn't going anywhere as soon as I ground down the compression bump. This mower was destined to be used as a rough cut mower
If nothing else it's definitely 💯 percent good for part. I collect broken ones just for that reason. God Bless ya'll. Stay safe 🙏
totally agree and thank you
I working on a riding mower with a Briggs 12.5 engine that was given to me by a friend as a parts machine. He said it was locked up and it didn't turn at all. I suspected it wasn't an internal issue by the way it was acting, When I began tear down, I found that the starter was fully engaged, and one of the magnets had fallen off the flywheel and gotten jammed in the alternator. When I removed the starter and flywheel, I found that there is no damage whatsoever to the engine. The unfortunate news is that replacing the flywheel won't be much cheaper than replacing the engine, and I think this one is discontinued. Do you know anywhere to get a decent price on something like a flywheel? The mower is in fantastic condition, and I hate to part it out over a flywheel, starter, and alternator.
unfortunately I don't
I'd try to find a used fly wheel. See if any local small engine shops have a junk motor with a good flywheel they would sell you
Good video sir! I truly like this deck style, yet at 10:44, there is the 1 thing I see a _lot of_ , the deck is split there below the side discharge flap. I can spot weld or even install a small brace there, it's just a shame.
I know right, not sure why but I'm guessing there's a weak spot there
Will you ever do any pressure washer videos? Maybe a pump rebuild? I’ve learned a lot but want to learn more on pressure washers
Sure, but I will tell you, that rebuilding the pumps is not worth it.
@@HomeGaragechannel Oh, I see. Yeah I just come across a lot of decently priced pressure washers for like 50-100 bucks with pumps that need rebuilt, so was curious to see what it would take, but I’ll take your word on it
don't worry, I do plan on showing what I mean, I video just as soon as I can get thru all these mowers first.
With such a basic mower (the recycler vs super recycler) I would have dedicated this one to the spare parts bin. Too much effort to repair a mower that is just ok, not top of the line. If it were a super recycler, I’d probably go for it.
man you said it on this one. I spent way too much time on this one
My mums lawnmower has a real bad oil leak from the oil seal at the bottom were the blade adapter is but I check the oil before I use it
nice, you're doing it right
That sounds like a series connecting rod slapping around inside there because of the low oil the journal bearing on connecting rod is starting to wear out the connecting rod if you really want to get that engine going so it's back to normal price out a connecting rod and a set of rings
Hone the cylinder out and it'll probably work great
I might still end up doing that
One thing that I must add is that Taryl had a problem with a Briggs and Stratton engine which he repaired under warranty,it wouldn't start & it had good compression,he tried to remove the compression release mechanism from the camshaft to prove a point but the engine still didn't start.
He previously did a compression test which proved that the engine had good compression but with when he did a cylinder leakdown test it failed then he pulled the engine right down & he found that the piston rings had stuck in the ring grooves.
So he rebuilt the engine under warranty & it started afterwards, mucking around with the compression release mechanism isn't going to fix the problem I don't think !
I might have to try that, thanks
I have a 22 inch toro lawn mower. When I start it, it works fine, but when I run it to use FWR, the engine starts unevenly and jerks. Please let me know what is wrong with my machine. Thankyou
sorry not enough information to help out
So what information do you want to fix it I will provide it for you. Thank you very much
the model and serial number would be great thanks. that allows me to see what your mower looks like and what engine is on there. I would also recommend making a new comment to a video, as I receive a lot of new comments and old one get pushed back in the line
TORO.
RECYCLER 22"
149сс
POWERED BY KOHLER.
Yes, I would have done something different. I'd have tried to improve the compression by reseating the valves. I wouldn't have gone further. If that didn't work, I like your idea, but I probably wouldn't have thought of it.
I do believe I set the valve clearances In the first video on this mower. That's why I ended up doing compression test then.
That engine is beat, I would’ve just done a transplant.
that's a good idea
There is no return on it anymore, but with the time already invested, I would take it as far as possible for the sake of learning or the satisfaction of completing it.
well said
When you put it back together I would have checked the OHV clearances.
If I recall I checked the clearance in the previous video already
I would not have ruined the camshaft it started and ran better before
thank you
see you on part 2 👍👍
you already know it
Don't they have a cast iron sleeve .
I think these Kohler engines do.
really? I'll have to check, I can't see them doing that for a mower engine though
@@HomeGaragechannel the xt-7 has one .
This is a common problem for these engines
yes from what I've seen, I believe it.
Cannot save them all
agreed
I’d honestly throw in the towel, but keep it for parts and just get a replacement. I’d put in effort to try and save it, but definitely not that much
you're a lot wiser then me!
if every person gave a damn about the problems or issues they would have used that mower for maybe 10 to 15 years.
nice span
One thing that kills me in your video is not showing the self propel working on the ground you always just show it spinning the wheels above ground but then you can’t see how worn out the belt is because once it is on the ground you can see how much it moves the mower
even if I did show it moving around, it wouldn't convey how well it's working.