Fixing A Serious Oil Leak On A Toro Lawn Mower
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ค. 2024
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Thanks for watching. This mower, has an oil leak from the sump gasket, and the only way to fix it, is to open the engine and re-seal it.
This video is meant as entertainment, always practice safety.
Your work gives great hope to diy mower doctors everywhere! Thanks for the videos!
Thank you!
Thank you for making this video. I did this to my mower and followed your steps! You saved my mower!
Glad I could help!
I've used gasket making stuff on alot of equipment. I've even used it on cars. It definitely works good for quick fixes. So for you to use it on a small engine in my opinion was a perfect was to repair the mower. The main thing is to do it the proper way by letting it set up which you did. Can't wait for the outcome video on this project. Keep up the educational videos. I've learned alot from you. Thank you Good sir
thank you Gary Allen, the second part doesn't go as well as I hoped, but it's not what you might think, in fact it surprised the heck out of me.
Thanks for uploading these videos. All those hours of work to show how to repair these mowers.
thank you I appreciate it, each video takes somewhere between 1 to several hours to fix, and the video production is another 10 to 12 hours.
Form a Gasket is _all_ you need. I have yet used a gasket for the sump. Approximately 40-50 engines have yet to leak. Fact. Good video sir.
thank you me toon , I appreciate it.
Very helpful, thanks man 👍🏼 now I know how to fix my lawnmower
Glad to help
the right stuff gasket maker has saved me more times than I could remember in the automotive field I am in
you're the second person to mention it. I'll have to get some.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE its pricey.. but worth it.
Gasket and seal are like $18 combined. Good video explaining the steps to dissemble and reassemble.
thank you SHONEY21Z
I definitely believe that making your own gasket is a better option due to this engine. Since oil leaks are common problems with Kohler it probably means that their gaskets aren’t high quality. Making your own gasket will most likely last longer
it was this or use a cereal box, but I don't eat cereal.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I have a big sheet of Flexoid gasket 'paper' it's more like card, it has served me well for 20 years or so for cars, bikes and mowers. I usually use a smear of Hylomar to ensure a leak proof seal.
very nice.
My dad has a sheet of gasket maker stuff it's fiders with metal weaved throughout it and when you tighten your parts together it smashes down not sure what it's called or where he bought it
I usually use a product called " The Right Stuff" It is a gasket maker and I have never had a failure using it, however it is a little expensive. Thanks for the video.
thank you Waterman one, I'll have to look into it, because this tube, isn't going to last forever.
Looks good, I like that round scraper, never seen one before.
I know, I didn't realize how rare this scraper was because I've never seen one like it either .
I would have bought a new gasket…. but, that’s largely due to lack of experience. I have some red high temp RTV in the garage. After seeing this I’m sure I’ll give it a try. The key, as you’ve pointed out, is to allow the gasket time to dry before torquing.
Another video and another lesson learned.
Cheers
thank you Ez Ray.
I’ve used gasket maker on mower engine sumps many times with great results. The key is to let it cure before torquing, the end play is close enough and not that crucial. Much better seal than a paper gasket for sure.
you are absolutely right, thank you mjg263.
I really like the gasket maker as well
I think it makes sense
Great video
Thanks!
I knew your cleaning ability would improve with practice. And boy howdy does this mower need TLC.
I know right, a good blow off, and a wipe down, will do, after an inspection of the air filter
I use an anaerobic sealant. This stuff is brilliant. Apply to one surface, then bolt together to specified torque. It doesn't leak. I've been using it on Euro cars for years. Last car I used it on was my own, when I replaced the left rear axle. To remove, replace these on some Mercedes cars, you need to remove the diff cover after draining the oil. No paper, cork, or neoprene gaskets here. Scourer to remove old sealant, clean with brake cleaner, apply sealant, bolt into place, fill with oil. Job done.
I'll have to look into it, what brand is your sealant?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE the one I use is Permatex. It is blue. Not sure if you have Permatex products there.
yes I do, thank you for the information
You did great... whenever use the gasket maker and sale it!! Save as much money as possible what the customers won't know won't hurt em... it takes money to make money...
thank you JJ Juarez, I appreciate it .
Like so many of the other folks commenting, I would have used the gasket, but that's because I just have not had good luck with the tube stuff. That rust on the deck however would drive me crazy. I'd be going neanderthal on it with a sand blaster and paint. Dirt and grime don't bother me but for some reason rust just bugs me, especially that much rust.
thank you convishen, I appreciate your thoughts and time.
I've never come across this, but I also don't work on as many lawnmowers as I'd like to.. If I do see this, I might have to give it a shot. I like the make your own gasket stuff instead of waiting for one to come in.
you and me both, Thank you Ed Rodrigues
I would of use the gasket maker myself. Great video as always my friend 🙏👍🙏👍🙏
thank you RayFpv, I think it's just easier to use too.
That is almost the exact same mower I have, except mine is a Lawn Boy. Got the Kohler motor on it. One thing I like about the Lawn Boy version is its rear wheel drive instead of front wheel drive. Front wheel drive ones suck cause they don't get as good traction.
you are absolutely right about that, thank you Pat Hayes.
I like to use a thin application of Threebond 1184 in place of gaskets in many applications. I apply to both surfaces and support the surfaces horizontally until the 1184 sets up. It's self-leveling, so it does a great job of replacing a gasket and I don't necessarily need to assemble parts within a certain amount of time. I can let it set up overnight at room temp or place it in a warmer area (on top of a boiler or in front of an electric heater are two places I've done this) and it'll set up in a couple hours or less. I apply a small amount of oil to one surface before assembling so I can pull the assembly apart later if desired. I've used 30 weight motor oil as well as assembly lube for this. Assembly lube is thicker and will adhere to a surface that is not horizontal a bit better if necessary.
thank you for the tip.
It all depends upon the brand of lawnmower engine,my dads Honda GSV190 engine has RTV sealant applied to the mating surfaces for the crankcase from the factory but with my Briggs and Stratton powered Supa Swift lawnmower the engine is fitted with a 0.15mm thick crankcase gasket which is a standard gasket but Briggs and Stratton do have different sized select fit gaskets to shim the crankcase in order to maintain the correct amount of crankshaft end float inside of the engine.
Shims are also available for that purpose as well !
yes you are correct about the end play being very important.
I am with ya buddy, there are times to use the stock gasket and times when you are inviting failure to dinner if you do.
thank yo Guys playing with tools.
I use a razer blade to scrape gaskets off and don't worry to much about surface scratches I've made as long as they are not deep , gasket maker is good but you can also replace the gasket and use silicone sealant (RTV) rated for heat and oil / fuel on both sides of gasket a light coat will make it stick in place and fill in any imperfections in the mating surfaces but like you said let it set up before you torque the bolts either way will work as long as it is sealed in the end
that makes sense, thank you Eric Richardson.
i would have done what you did. good job 👍👌
thank you
Tried using silicone sealant on a Honda GX-390 crankcase cover and the crankshaft wouldn’t turn. Had to put a gasket on it. Thanks for the video sir.
Thank you for sharing.
Gasket maker is absolutely fine, when used properly. I have not seen that method of assembling and then letting it set up before torquing. I am interested to see how well that worked.
I wish I could tell you, but the mower sold some time ago.
Some engine need the gasket for the clearance of the crankshaft. Went over a vtwin Kohler where they did exactly as you and it seized the engine from the lack of clearance
that makes sense
I would have used a gasket myself. I know with the old flathead Briggs, the sump gasket thickness determined the up and down crank play. Briggs had several different thickness gaskets to get the correct endplay. Since those motors (the one you are working on) are known to leak, I would have tried to get a thinner gasket and then apply the gasket maker to it to try and get the same end play as before. But as long as it works, and the person who gets the mower after you is happy, then it really doesn't matter how you do it. Great Video as always and keep up the good work!!
thank you Ethan Miller.
I’ve definitely used gasket maker on my lawnboys, I thought It had lost power and or compression so I regasketed the block where it splits, turned out to just be a carb rebuild thing
nice, thank you Tiger
I actually just did this for a customer's pressure washer. It had a Yamaha engine and was going to cost $40 for a new gasket. I also plan on doing this to a Kohler that I can't seem to find a gasket for.
thank you Brian King, and I can't believe a gasket would cost so much,.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE about half of that was for shipping. I couldn't find it on Ebay or Amazon.
The gasket maker is just fine as long as the crank endplay is good.
that makes sense.
In a situation ;like this I'd use Permatex#2. It's non-hardening and has done me well in such cases.
I don't remember the number on this one.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE #2 is dark brown and has a sweet smell. If you've ever smelled it before you'll remember it.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE #2 is brown as all #2 is and no pun intended, really, but it happened.
thanks for clarifying.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Sure.
Those Gasket makers are a mess. The effin tube always breaks on me. That said, sometimes it’s hard to chase down a gasket that fits so I can see the advantage of a Gasket maker. Good tip on letting it set up.
yes you are right, making sure you have the right gasket is a real pain sometimes.
Good job Surprised you didn't clean the shaft before withdrawing the sump seal especially after the laborious adapter removal. Further surprised you trusted the seal was not compromised. With the amount of work involved and no exigent factors, I would have used a gasket. Actually, gasket with coating. I've not had any significant problems with the gasket goo but I'm always surprised that it works and feel uneasy that its just bidding its time to let go.
yes it was an oversight on my part, and it was definitely a hinderance
This is beyond my own experience, but I do wish to do this shortly to pull an engine apart, so it was good to see step by step view, I have tried to take of the blade boss but unsuccessful without the proper tools.
I’d rather use the gasket unless it was unavailable as many things are these days using a gasket maker would be the only other option which I thought keeping tube in a sealed plastic bag in the fridge may extend its life of the tube.
thank you Rick Thelian, taking apart engines can be a mixed bag sometimes
Hey bro what's up? I saw that you had to get you hands dirty in this video. Even though the sump was real nasty looking a good cleaning made it look almost new again bro.
thank you Ramadin Sookhoo, I hope I explained why it was important to clean it.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yes you did bro. I know once you take care of your equipment, they can last for a lifetime.
No problem using gasket maker fr, i a small engine mechanic and alot of these come out from the factory with gasket maker as a gasket
well for me i,d not only use the gasket sealant but also apply when the gasket material part is in place too etc.
I see what you mean.
I was working on the same engine the other day, and downloaded the service manual for a different reason. They specify the crank endplay between 0.427/1.298 mm (roughly 1/2mm) That bad gasket looked less than 1mm, so it doesn't seem to me that gasket plays a big role in the crank endplay.
thank you The Lawnmower Lady, the gasket certainly seemed to be in very bad shape.
I'd use the gasket, and recommended sealer
thank you Paul E. Maurice.
yesss siirrrr
thank you Trippy Terpenes .
Use some of the old oil on a rag and wipe down the underside of the deck
that's a good idea.
How will I know how much I need to neglect it if I don't have an inspection window in the side of the block?
lol... I didn't know where that that comment was going until I finished reading it.
I haven’t had very much luck with gasket maker in the past for some reason, so there fore I would of installed a material gasket.
that makes sense, thank you William Snow.
A paper gasket can only be used on that engine, where as gasket maker is there ready in your workshop and can be used on any engine, saving both money and time.
thank you Andrew Orli.
Try spray nine degreaser that shits magical
thank you Eathan Richards314.
When I replace gaskets, I use a sharp chisel to scrape the gasket off, and I use rtv silicone, just to make sure that the gasket seals. If you are replacing a head gasket, put a small amount of oil on it, this ensures that if you have to take the head back off, the gasket won't stick to the metal and rip, so you won't have to buy a new gasket.
thank you Donald Bower.
Don’t use a chisel unless it’s plastic
Why, its sharp, and the rtv silicone fills up the scratches. And besides, it is a cheap chisel, so if it gets dull, I'll sharpen it. If it breaks, I'll buy a new one. Been using this method on gaskets for 5 years, never had a problem, and yes, all of the surfaces were cast aluminum.
@@donaldbower4097 it may gauge the metal and make it leak
@@eathans_small_engines8665 but the silicone gasket maker ensures that it won't leak
That rusty deck would drive me insane
I know right.
End play will be irrelevant if the oil leak was not fixed and the next owner skips the oil level check, resulting in the inspection window you discussed.
yes sir.
A can of rust stop primer and red paint would do a lot of good under the deck
thank you ADAM MOSHER, I'll have to try that out .
I had a leak at the base of the oil dipstick tube. Replaced the oring but it still leaks. I think the plastic tube has shrunk over the years so the next fix is going to be gasket sealer around the base of the tube instead of the oring.
that should work, just let it set up, before adding oil
Try wrapping Teflon tape around the O ring first. I've had good success with that. You could use it under the O ring (to expand the O ring) if you have trouble keeping the Teflon tape in place on the outside.
@@65csx83 Good idea! Thanks
On some engines, the gasket thickness is important for regulating end play. But since the old gasket was of poor quality from the manufacturer, I think the good seal you created with gasket in a tube will be fine. The old one was so thin, it was not adding end play anyway. It you have a bit more because of your gasket choice, it should be fine. Too little end play is the problem, a little too much is not, IMHO.
yes you're the first person to bring up end play, and although it is important, I think letting the gasket setup, gives me plenty of thickness for end play, thank you haneyoakie14
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE your gasket thickness has to be greater than the OEM POS gasket, so it will add end play, which should be and “error” on the safe side. Too little end play would cause innards to hit. Too much, I don’t see a problem. Maybe some one can set me straight if that is incorrect.
no you're right.
I don’t have any problems with using a gasket maker for my own mowers if someone else’s I would use a gasket!
thank you Mike Jones.
I would have used both. Light coat gasket maker on both surfaces & the gasket itself in the center..........
thank you jct300m
Probably a home owner that enjoyed mowing wet morning grass.
that could be.
Here in Italy the price of fuel is 4 times more than before
2,2 euros per liter
wow, that's a lot!
It's bad advice to say that a cracked block cannot be repaired, especially an aluminum one. Depending on where the crack is, a skilled tig welder can repair it like new.
Also, that seal didn't leak before but is much more likely to now after being forced over the rusty shaft. It would have been a whole lot easier to replace it when you had it all apart and on the workbench.
money, skill, time, thanks for the comment though.
You know why the sump gasket leaks,poor maintance when the air filter gets clogged up the engine has to breath some how,the back pressure of the piston causes this.I tell my customers to check the air filter replace when dirty.btw I charge 60 dollars to replace sump gasket,,,
makes sense
cant make this up i just did this repair on a mower that was leaking
nice, I hope it worked out well then?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE it has and I also got to clean out the old oil and 20years of metal shavings in the blcok
that is a plus then.
I do not greatly see anything wrong with your repair, if it works and is low cost might as well, some rust kill on the mower deck maybe, wet grass is ENEMY on steel next to salt water wet grass RUSTS steel!!
thank you Barry Phillips.
Do you like stihl
yes, but not enough own it, besides what I find for free.
Why not use a gasket?
cost, choice, ample time vs an assembly line, convenient, ease, because.
Inspection window/ sung connection rod 😭
yes sir.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE well at least you have this engine for for running condition again 👍
yes sir.
I hate Kohler engines so I would’ve found me a Honda or a Briggs motor and put that on there instead
thank you 2035jim.
The easiest way to remove the blade holder off the crank is to give it a light tap with a hammer
Thats what happens when you use synthetic oil for a long period of time.
I've never ever heard of such a thing.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE its true, look it up
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE well unless the seals are not in good condition then it would cause problems
How long is long so I can be prepared? I switched to synthetic over 20 years ago. Most of my yard equipment is 30+ years old; some is around 50 or more. The videoToro didn't appear to be old; at least from my perspective
Kohler is Chinese trash
"Chonda"..
I know a lot of people don't like them.
Tes this mower was in a flood.... Salvage title. OMG !
I think you might be on to something