I had the same issue this week with a carb I bought for a lawn mower someone gave me for free and was not running. I used a drill bit to make the opening large enough to fit the throttle rod though. Your videos are really helpful and have helped me gain knowledge on how to fix small engines.
Seems just right to me. For mine it’s fresh oil at the beginning of every season and any parts necessary, but for customers who don’t want it serviced annually they have to expect everything will need attention when it finally does get done.
you're right about that... although, most would just like the oil changed, air filter cleaned if not replaced and the blade sharpened. They don't know or don't care about the rest
I agree with you why not do the maintenance it and needs i am always doing something to it. Going to last long if you help it long. THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
Labeling this thing a Snapper is an insult to the old school real Snappers which were bullet proof. Thank God they stopped marketing this stuff under such a legendary name.
They’re probably sourced out to MTD. That’s what it looks like to me. It favors a Troy-Bilt. Not calling those bad mowers but it’s not “high end” like an old Snapper.
I'd definitely pop out the cover for the drive system, more often than not it gets clogged with debris and eventually it'll drop the spring keeping tension on the belt or have the belt come away from the proper grove behind the blade. It's usually just a couple screws and some compressed air, 2-3minutes for peace of mind
That’s the very same engine that’s on my huskqvarna walk behind trimmer it just looks a little different on the top it’s definitely a great engine lots of power and it starts easily it runs good now I’m just waiting on my belt for my string engagement
I think what you did was just right. I wouldn't have done any more. I'm probably guilty of not doing everything I should to my mowers, but I try to keep them maintained. My Toro w/Briggs engine is from 2011, and it's still running fine. I just fixed the same air vane problem you found. And the air vane spring was missing. That is what was making it take 10 pulls to start. Now it takes 3. I'll take that.
Mine doesn't have that filter in the tank nippel. The nippel on mine broke the first time I tried to replace the in-line filter another nightmare. In the past I have blown air in the tank, and put the cap on it then it worked.
It depends on how bad the machine actually was when you took it in. He already agreed to the most expensive part up front so, unless there were more surprises I would say you did exactly what was needed.
Hello. Do you plan on doing some videos on engine swaps and more specifically the problem with difference between shafts diameters and length? Thank and great channel by the way
Where would you get lawn mower wheels? I have a rough craftsman push mower that I got from my brother. It runs but needs some work to make it better. Also bolts for the top mower cover they are missing.
I would add, I change the spark plug every 2 years as well. I realize a plug can last longer such as with that mower. Still I change them every 2 years.
You asked about questions at the end of your video I have one. I do my own maintenance carburetor swap, or rebuild. I have been fighting a loosing battle with a 2014 cub cadet sc100 push mower. It appears to be starving for fuel. I have been through the carburetor it ran, and cut the whole yard. 1 week later it runs for 2 minutes. What the breather thing in the shroud could this be my problem?
Hey, FWIW I had the same problem with a Cub Cadet push mower like yours and in my case it was an old defective fuel filter in the tank, even though it was clean it wasn’t letting enough fuel through. A good test is to clamp off the fuel line, disconnect it from the carb and direct the end of the line into a jar. Remove the clamp and observe the fuel flow into the jar. If it slows to barely a trickle try removing the gas cap, if that improves it then check the vent hole in the cap or the little round filter in that canister mounted in the shroud. If it’s still barely a trickle there’s a filter mounted inside the fuel line where it connects to the tank, that may be plugged or defective. Sometimes it’s best to remove the old in-hose filter and install an external red disc style strainer filter, they allow more fuel flow and usually that’s all you need to protect the carb from dirt. Just my opinion, not affiliated with this channel.
@@markragland6128 on mine it had a little round foam disc filter in the end that I could remove and clean. It’s basically like a charcoal vapor canister on a car, I don’t think it actually vents the tank but I’m not sure. Watching the fuel flow then loosening the gas cap will tell you right away if it’s a venting problem, but when those plastic in hose fuel filters get old they seem to close up and restrict the fuel flow. At least that’s what it was in my case (drove me nuts trying to find it).
the "breather thing" is an emissions device. There's only charcoal in it. I don't think that's the problem. Have you tried to put some starting fluid in the carb and start it then? If it starts and stops, that would confirm a carb problem
While I'd never leave oil in anything for 4 years myself, we do live in an era where people just dont seem to care anymore... The same people will drive their vehicle around for 10 or 12 thousand miles until the oil change reminder comes on, and then proceed to ignore it for another 6 months before they finally take the poor thing in for an oil change. There is very little done anymore in the way of preventative maintenance, most folks are content with just running it into the ground and then complaining about it when it breaks at the least convenient time.
My Briggs 500e is siezing up after i shut it down after about 20 minutes of use (When its hot). It's fine when it's cold and doesnt smoke or burn oil. I have to spin the blades to free the engine up if i want to restart it. Have you come across this before?
Hey man, I have a push mower that I brought back from our cabin to fix. We haven’t used it in years and the issue is that the primer bulb just sucks air and doesn’t fill with fuel. The bulb itself still works and I cleaned the heck out of the carb and I still can figure it out. Help please.
I'll need to know more information about your mower. Model and serial number. If you're not able to find that information I'll only be able to give you general answers for your situation. If it's an older briggs engine with a pointy looking air filter, then what I would do would be to take off the filter and prime the engine with fuel and try starting it. That should be enough to get the carb to work again along with the primer. Otherwise the main fuel jet is clogged and that's why it's not priming
Stupid question? When checking the oil on these types of engines (quantum) should you twist and lock the dipstick? Or should you just set it in? Sorry for the silly question.
Hey my stihl fs 86 isn’t pulling fuel and worst of all it’s a brand new carby I checked the diaphram and it was fine the line is clear and I even tried to pump the diaphram by hand and still nothing it’s not even trying and I pulled it with out the cover and the diaphram was moving and before this it ran really ruff and I tried to tune it because it’s a new carby but it didn’t really effect it 😢 and my motor has got plenty of compression
I believe so. From my testing, it seemed like the carb was sending too much fuel to the engine. It was fine when the engine was cold, but as it get hot the extra fuel just ended up causing a backfire. The pulse from the backfire will cause the carb to stop working for a bit.
I may have put a couple of oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in it and then run if for a bit (or cut your grass). Then I would have done the oil change. You'd be surprised at how much crud MMO cleans out of the crankcase. I agree with cleaning and lubeing the axels and gears, but in this case it was too late, the damage was already done. 4 years between oil changes, that's ridiculous!!!! Takes about 5 minutes!!!!
I help relatives what I can on their equipment when needed but when basic maintenance is not done on a timely basis, I don't help them. Why bother to help when they don't bother to do it, right?
You could do all of this stuff in an 11 minute video without even editing it, lol. I don't understand why people spend tons of money on equipment and do not take care of it.
Love the idea of weighing air filter before and after for perspective.
I thought so too
@@HomeGaragechannel It's very VacLab. For pickup tests he typically weighs the filters before and after.
😂. Love it. Also Wire brush and silicone spray the undercarriage once a year.
nice!
I'm glad you brought it up, because it seemed to me as if this mower was running fast with the old carb as well.
yes you are right, I do believe I reset the speed before giving it back to them.
Thank you for your videos. They are fun and entertaining!
Glad you like them!
Awesome video, I love seeing your methodology!
I appreciate that
I had the same issue this week with a carb I bought for a lawn mower someone gave me for free and was not running. I used a drill bit to make the opening large enough to fit the throttle rod though. Your videos are really helpful and have helped me gain knowledge on how to fix small engines.
thanks, I really appreciate that.
You did plenty. Shame they couldn't do a little to offset the wear but it's 'Pay me now or pay me later'. Happy weekend and Blessings!
I like that phrasing!
@@HomeGaragechannel Old commercials from years gone by. Mr. Goodwrench I think.
Seems just right to me. For mine it’s fresh oil at the beginning of every season and any parts necessary, but for customers who don’t want it serviced annually they have to expect everything will need attention when it finally does get done.
you're right about that... although, most would just like the oil changed, air filter cleaned if not replaced and the blade sharpened. They don't know or don't care about the rest
i love all of your work keep it up
I will and I appreciate your time
You got just right for the mowers
I think so too.
Great video 👍🙏👍🙏I think it was enough. Great job
thank you very much!
Definitely the right amount of maintenance. What seemed odd to me was its a front wheel drive but that back tires were bald
oh that's because I swapped tires front to back.. in a past video.
I agree with you why not do the maintenance it and needs i am always doing something to it. Going to last long if you help it long. THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
couldn't agree more!
Labeling this thing a Snapper is an insult to the old school real Snappers which were bullet proof. Thank God they stopped marketing this stuff under such a legendary name.
no Hi-Vac deck? No staggered wheels? No disc drive? No stamped steel lettering?
pass. That's no Snapper.
yes I've heard that before
@@HomeGaragechannel I'll keep yelling it from the rooftops too... well done!
They’re probably sourced out to MTD. That’s what it looks like to me. It favors a Troy-Bilt. Not calling those bad mowers but it’s not “high end” like an old Snapper.
@@UhBuddy1976 Everything nowadays is made by MTD, even Lawnboy.
I'm surprised you didn't change the spark plug or even mention it after all the maintenance.
no I don't change spark plugs unless I have a reason to, like a no start or running issue.
I'd definitely pop out the cover for the drive system, more often than not it gets clogged with debris and eventually it'll drop the spring keeping tension on the belt or have the belt come away from the proper grove behind the blade. It's usually just a couple screws and some compressed air, 2-3minutes for peace of mind
thank you
That’s the very same engine that’s on my huskqvarna walk behind trimmer it just looks a little different on the top it’s definitely a great engine lots of power and it starts easily it runs good now I’m just waiting on my belt for my string engagement
nice trimmer and good luck with it.
I think what you did was just right. I wouldn't have done any more. I'm probably guilty of not doing everything I should to my mowers, but I try to keep them maintained. My Toro w/Briggs engine is from 2011, and it's still running fine. I just fixed the same air vane problem you found. And the air vane spring was missing. That is what was making it take 10 pulls to start. Now it takes 3. I'll take that.
I appreciate that and nice work getting your Toro/Briggs working again
Could you put some kind of thin nylon bushing around the axle to take up the space caused by the wear if you wanted to go that far with it?
it's possible I guess.
i have one of those engines on a old troy mower and when i was sharpening a blade i found out it has a oil plug under it on the left hand side
yes some of the older ones have drain plugs and if you feel like it, try using it
Mine doesn't have that filter in the tank nippel. The nippel on mine broke the first time I tried to replace the in-line filter another nightmare. In the past I have blown air in the tank, and put the cap on it then it worked.
that's a good idea
I have never seen wear like that before wow !!! ( wheels )
I know right!
check the head bolts!
great tip
especially the three ones around the exhaust port/valve. They work loose over time.
It depends on how bad the machine actually was when you took it in. He already agreed to the most expensive part up front so, unless there were more surprises I would say you did exactly what was needed.
I like the way you put it, thanks
Hey bro what's up? In my opinion, I believe that you went above and beyond the expectations concerning the maintenance of this mower.
Nice, I like that you see it that way
Hello. Do you plan on doing some videos on engine swaps and more specifically the problem with difference between shafts diameters and length?
Thank and great channel by the way
only if those projects come up. As far as your question, I would only swap engines with the same shaft dimensions to make the swap go easier.
Where would you get lawn mower wheels? I have a rough craftsman push mower that I got from my brother. It runs but needs some work to make it better. Also bolts for the top mower cover they are missing.
you can get them from Ereplacementparts dot com.
Those "SCAMAZON" carburetors always have small holes for throttle linkage
I know right
I would add, I change the spark plug every 2 years as well. I realize a plug can last longer such as with that mower. Still I change them every 2 years.
that's sound advice.
I wonder when the last time the red inline fuel filter was replaced?? 🤔😉😁
good question
You asked about questions at the end of your video I have one. I do my own maintenance carburetor swap, or rebuild. I have been fighting a loosing battle with a 2014 cub cadet sc100 push mower. It appears to be starving for fuel. I have been through the carburetor it ran, and cut the whole yard. 1 week later it runs for 2 minutes. What the breather thing in the shroud could this be my problem?
Hey, FWIW I had the same problem with a Cub Cadet push mower like yours and in my case it was an old defective fuel filter in the tank, even though it was clean it wasn’t letting enough fuel through. A good test is to clamp off the fuel line, disconnect it from the carb and direct the end of the line into a jar. Remove the clamp and observe the fuel flow into the jar. If it slows to barely a trickle try removing the gas cap, if that improves it then check the vent hole in the cap or the little round filter in that canister mounted in the shroud. If it’s still barely a trickle there’s a filter mounted inside the fuel line where it connects to the tank, that may be plugged or defective. Sometimes it’s best to remove the old in-hose filter and install an external red disc style strainer filter, they allow more fuel flow and usually that’s all you need to protect the carb from dirt. Just my opinion, not affiliated with this channel.
@@mjg263 Thanks I will try them. How do you clean the canister thing?
@@markragland6128 on mine it had a little round foam disc filter in the end that I could remove and clean. It’s basically like a charcoal vapor canister on a car, I don’t think it actually vents the tank but I’m not sure. Watching the fuel flow then loosening the gas cap will tell you right away if it’s a venting problem, but when those plastic in hose fuel filters get old they seem to close up and restrict the fuel flow. At least that’s what it was in my case (drove me nuts trying to find it).
the "breather thing" is an emissions device. There's only charcoal in it. I don't think that's the problem. Have you tried to put some starting fluid in the carb and start it then? If it starts and stops, that would confirm a carb problem
While I'd never leave oil in anything for 4 years myself, we do live in an era where people just dont seem to care anymore... The same people will drive their vehicle around for 10 or 12 thousand miles until the oil change reminder comes on, and then proceed to ignore it for another 6 months before they finally take the poor thing in for an oil change. There is very little done anymore in the way of preventative maintenance, most folks are content with just running it into the ground and then complaining about it when it breaks at the least convenient time.
agreed, things are definitely different
Whats your thoughts on using synthetic 10w-30 oil for lawnmowers instead of the regular SAE 30?
I wouldn't and the reason is based on need. It's a small engine, and putting oil that's double or triple the price doesn't make sense to me.
My Briggs 500e is siezing up after i shut it down after about 20 minutes of use (When its hot). It's fine when it's cold and doesnt smoke or burn oil. I have to spin the blades to free the engine up if i want to restart it. Have you come across this before?
sure, when the oil is low.
Most of the mowers you work on have something like a Gardena Hose on their left side. What do you think about using this to clean the mowing deck?
they work really well if you use them immediately after mowing with them.. I use my when I have to mow a day or two after raining
Hey man, I have a push mower that I brought back from our cabin to fix. We haven’t used it in years and the issue is that the primer bulb just sucks air and doesn’t fill with fuel. The bulb itself still works and I cleaned the heck out of the carb and I still can figure it out. Help please.
Is the fule lines in good shape 🤔
I'll need to know more information about your mower. Model and serial number. If you're not able to find that information I'll only be able to give you general answers for your situation. If it's an older briggs engine with a pointy looking air filter, then what I would do would be to take off the filter and prime the engine with fuel and try starting it. That should be enough to get the carb to work again along with the primer. Otherwise the main fuel jet is clogged and that's why it's not priming
Stupid question? When checking the oil on these types of engines (quantum) should you twist and lock the dipstick? Or should you just set it in? Sorry for the silly question.
twist it, but if you line up the dipstick correctly it will seat all the way down without having to twist.
Hey my stihl fs 86 isn’t pulling fuel and worst of all it’s a brand new carby I checked the diaphram and it was fine the line is clear and I even tried to pump the diaphram by hand and still nothing it’s not even trying and I pulled it with out the cover and the diaphram was moving and before this it ran really ruff and I tried to tune it because it’s a new carby but it didn’t really effect it 😢 and my motor has got plenty of compression
if you installed a new carb and it won't prime, than most likely the carb is defective and you'll need to return it.
It’s one of those non prime ones
I was thinking the problem with it was me so it’s been a while like 1 or 2 months 😅 yikes 😅
Maybe a peas of dirt clogged the jet
oh I see what you're saying but pushing on the diaphragm won't work without the rest of the carb on
Could the backfire be caused by a carburetor issue. I have one that starts fine idles low and after a while backfires and turns off
I believe so. From my testing, it seemed like the carb was sending too much fuel to the engine. It was fine when the engine was cold, but as it get hot the extra fuel just ended up causing a backfire. The pulse from the backfire will cause the carb to stop working for a bit.
@HomeGaragechannel I think I have a extra carburetor I can use to test. Thank you so much for responding I truly appreciate it
Can you list the lubricants you use.
Sure, blaster white lithium and WD-40
I love my snapper
I like them too
I may have put a couple of oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in it and then run if for a bit (or cut your grass). Then I would have done the oil change. You'd be surprised at how much crud MMO cleans out of the crankcase. I agree with cleaning and lubeing the axels and gears, but in this case it was too late, the damage was already done. 4 years between oil changes, that's ridiculous!!!! Takes about 5 minutes!!!!
thank you and yes I agree with you on the maintenance
Engine sounds just a tad lazy for a couple of seconds on initial startup. Why is that?
it should be related to the governor or choke system being slow to respond. The mower is 11 years old, and might be tired too
👍
thanks
Probably also at least check & clean the spark plug then regap the electrodes or replace it if necessary !
very good idea
Nope it really needed
I help relatives what I can on their equipment when needed but when basic maintenance is not done on a timely basis, I don't help them. Why bother to help when they don't bother to do it, right?
you make a good point
I would rather something of mine be maintained instead of not and getting poor performance, shortened lifespan or both.
agreed, I like my stuff to run the best it can
You could do all of this stuff in an 11 minute video without even editing it, lol. I don't understand why people spend tons of money on equipment and do not take care of it.
Welcome to the word of video production
Not hard to do these things to your mower.
agreed