You guys were cracking me up that you have a machine digger (excavator) there and yet, you were moving dirt with shovels. 🤣 Well you have to learn somehow. Keep it up and you'll get better. You might eventually decide to move into the heavy equipment side. 🤷♂️ Good video! 👍
I once watched a guy build his house mostly by his self. Watched just about all of it as it came out. It took like 5 years. But he was just doing it on the weekends because he had a regular job and everything. Beautiful house. It was nice watching it being built. It was bittersweet to see it finished.
Jordan. I've ran a lot of equipment, and I will say that you picked it up pretty quick. What was especially good is that you realized early that you should always "scratch" the surface to avoid blow-outs. Great job, guy.
My first thought was "Wait, was that a handgun in his front seat?" My second thought was "Well, I mean it *is* Texas. Have a good time." My third thought: "Bruh, how bad is your neighborhood that you need to have a gun in your front seat when you head to the lumber yard?" My fourth thought: "Remember, it's Texas. It's less of a defensive necessity and more like a Texas Travel Mug"
@@salty_flightdeck_cpo Let me just make enough space here for me to be wrong about this. Ok. There. An incidental glimpse of something is not what they are demonetizing videos for, is it? It has to be "featured" or be present in the video for a long time. If you walked into an sporting goods store and talked about fishing rods and the like, while there was a rack of long arms behind the counter that you didn't talk about or acknowledge- Maybe, since their algorithm likely detects LOTS OF PEW PEWS. But walking by a display? Very unlikely. :) I mean come on, it's not like we are talking about 'tiddies'.
You guys do great work and are very skilled. As a concrete guy for over 40 years, I don't know anyone who sets forms and then digs footings. Typically we dig and pour footings, then set the slab forms and pour the slab separate. Rebar is stabbed into the footings then bent over into the slab to connect them structurally. Aprons and porches are added on last. I live in the Midwest and I know things like this vary by region.
You guys should put some silt fence in around your spoils pile. Also dig the dirt off the neighbor's fence and put some so rain doesn't wash silt and mud into their yard. Not sure what a code inspector would say about it. I'm just used to having to do it on pipeline projects.
I build my monolithic slab foundations by digging the trenches first. I make them perfectly straight by laying out the string lines and using a 2x6 laid flat and staked down from the outside to hold it place. This 2x6 is used as a straight edge that I can run the excavator bucket against as I dig. It works very well. Our footers are 22” deep and 16” wide, with 1.5” of foam insulation board on the outside. By using an 18” bucket we end up with the extra 1/2” on the exterior of the form and foam, which we can easily backfill before pouring the concrete
Always dig footings first, then set form boards. We use upside down spray paint with a string line to keep it straight. The chances of hitting the form board or even loosening the form board stake seems high while excavating the footings with the form boards in place.
Again I have to just bring up this point. Make sure your back garage door is wide enough to accommodate the widest trailer you will be using (definitely wider than 8 feet). You never know when you might need to pull the trailer to the back to accomplish your projects. When planning, wider is better. Please keep the great videos coming.
My last house had 8 foot wide garage doors, the current house has 9 foot wide garage doors, if I can suggest your pull through doors with a full size pickup is far easier and less stressful to travel through. You’ll be far happier by having that extra foot in width. How tall will your doors be? I just built my daughters house and installed 8 foot tall doors so she can easily fit a Tahoe or Suburban etc. You’re doing a great job so far and look forward to it all taking shape.
You guys need to put episode number in the title. Like new house build episode 1 and so on. Easy for people to watch it if they just found you in the middle
I would come out the front with a minimal slope for about the length of a car/truck, before a sharper ramp down to the street. This gives you an almost flat area to work on your vehicle, as well as a flat area to setup a table saw etc.
As an architect and builder, I find the regional differences in construction methodology rather interesting. I'm in Tucson, and virtually everyone here uses round steel "nail stakes" to set their concrete forms. I don't think I've seen a wooden stake in over 25 years. For the uninitiated, nail stakes are pointed 3/4" (sometimes 7/8" or 1") diameter steel rods with a series of nail/screw holes one inch apart along the entire length, and usually 90 or 60 degrees to each other to make adjustments easier. They commonly come in lengths of 12" to 72", but even longer ones can be found. They are generally driven at least 6" below the footing or grade beam excavation, so there is no need to restake if there is a blowout or collapse of the trench side.
Hey stud pack, if lift up your right foot rest, there should be a pedal that moves left and right. This pedal will move the entire boom assembly from center to hard left or right while keeping the machine facing the trench @ 90 degrees.
If you're already running a waste pipe out of the garage (presumably you are, for the living area upstairs), it seems crazy to me to not go ahead and throw a couple floor drains in the garage! Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems to me like you're only talking about a couple hundred bucks in materials and maybe a day of work for something that even if you don't use it for washing cars/etc, still serves as a huge peace of mind feature - giving you somewhere to squeegee water if the garage floods, making it so you can hose out big messes, etc.
They are going to have big holes in the front and back walls to squeegee out water if needed. 😉I like the idea of sloping the floors to the doors rather than more plumbing.
@@rogermccaslin5963 that doesn't do much good when it's raining cats & dogs in texas and it's flooded outside, and you have nowhere to move the water that's coming into the garage. That alone - the prospect of helping to prevent thousands of dollars in flood damage - is worth the ~$200-$300 it'd cost to install a floor drain or 2.
@@Jutilaje If it is flooded 16 inches above the storm drain (the claimed height of the slab), where do you think that water going down the drain is going to go? Do you really thing the sanitary sewers aren't going to be over capacity?
@@rogermccaslin5963 how would rainwater get into the sanitary system? That's literally the whole point of a municipal storm water drain system - so rain doesn't get in the sanitary system and cause major backups/etc. And it doesn't have to be legit full-on flooded 16" over the storm drain for the yard & garage to potentially flood somewhat - just that the rain is coming down faster than it can move to the storm drain. I live in Florida and this happens pretty regularly. And again, regardless how remote the possibility, we're talking about like $200 in materials here. We're not suggesting they completely reengineer the pad, install a complicated, expensive ground tile system/etc. just that while everything is open and they're running a sanitary line to the garage anyways, to go ahead and do the extra couple hours of work to tie a few floor drains into that same sanitary line. It's one of those things that only takes a couple hundred bucks to do now, but thousands of dollars to do down the road if their intended use changes, and that can be surprisingly useful in ways you didn't expect.
I don't know what kind of work you intend to do in the garage, but something to consider is an anchor point. A steel loop anchor below floor level that you can hook a chain to for a hold down point. A buddy put one in his garage. He uses it to straighten a race car frame by chaining down the car/frame and jacking up the bent (down) section. Just a chunk of steel in a re-enforced footer and cup the slab around the loop. Make a simple cover when not in use.
Land of ice and snow here. I couldn't imagine a garage with no drainage slope, it's even useful in summer when you hose down the floor to get all the crap off it - weld spatter, grinding dust, the odd oil stain.
Love the detail and explanation of the process. Many can take for granted the all the small steps in explaining the process when it has become second nature and forget what it was like to be such a novice. Keep up the great work and thanks for filling in the gaps. I’m here taking notes.
You guys rock once again. Love it. Keep up the great job. I’m sure is gonna turn out beautiful guys. I learn so much just watching your videos on the real. 👍🏼👍🏼
you guys seem more confident and comfortable in front of the camera with every video. even all the way in Australia iv gained a lot from your videos. keep it up👍
A few people have commented on the "grade beam". A grade beam is similar to a footing except that a grade beam, is required to maintain a continuous footing through a large opening such as a garage door opening.
I am a TH-cam nut. And you guys are the best thing going on TH-cam. Keep up the good work. I know we’re all loving taking this journey with you. You guys rock!!!!!
The way that compacted fill shifted in sheets when you excavated along the back is why I think compacting with a sheepshead roller is best because each laid down layer of dirt is vertically integrated with layers below and above which creates a solid block rather than layers which can have water infiltration over time.
We call them sheepsfoot rollers here in Tucson, but I do agree with you. The combination of the roller lugs and vibration make for superior compaction and greatly reduces the layering. The downside is that the vibrations can travel pretty far though the soils, which might create some issues with adjacent neighbors. Still, just using the lugs is a big improvement over a smooth roller.
this layering effect with infiltration from surface water is precisely why slurry asphalt roads in los angeles and other places fall apart as they use only a process which gives the cosmetic appearance of performing maintenance, they take all thr tax money and provide inadequate services. whereas the knowledge and research already exists in the experience and minds of the well informed, the foolhardy or greedy are the ones making our long term road maintenance choices.
I like that idea of sloping the floor to the doors, even if only a little. Also, in my old shop we cut and ground a ramp into the floor at the doors to get rid of the lip so when we drove forklifts in and out there wasn't that drop. Hard-tire forklifts slam pretty hard even when you only drop an inch or two. We started with the original lower height of the apron side of the door and cut in about 18 inches sloping up to the garage floor height. I know you guys probably won't ever have hard-tire forklifts to deal with but rolling anything in or out is easier with out the drop.
Hey stud pack. A day one viewer here. Still think that gas lamp working was so awesome. First comment but iv been watching forever and learned so much from you guys i love the humor the tips the tricks the editing the relationship u guys have its all amazing. Keep it up!! 👍🏻
I just gotta say y’all are doing a fantastic job with this series and the channel all together! 👏🏼 I definitely feel like you are building a community and that I am a part of it. 💯💯💯 good work gents!
By the time you guys are done with this slab, Jordan will be a pro on that mini ex! Loving this series... Keep up the great work! Miss Y'all here in BR. Next time y'all come back to town, hmu and we'll build you a nice rack for the truck...
I'm like a kid on Saturday morning waiting on cartoons. I was like ahhhh not posted yet. So I cleaned up the yard came in and yeah new episode. I can't wait till next week. Go StudPack!!!
We made our own concrete forms almost 20 years ago and it came out OK. But we were doing it for a shed, not a garage. When I worked at a zoo we had floor drains in some prep kitchens for animal feed. The outlets had covers so you could literally hose down the whole room and everything would go down the drain. Jordon is doing great with that excavator! I'm looking forward to seeing the next video.
Some suggestions for the garage. A 220/240 outlet on every wall. You never know what tools you may require in the future and it is cheaper to install from the start. Numerous electrical outlets on the walls. Electrical outlets in the ceiling for drop down power eliminating tripping hazards. A door into the garage other than the large garage doors. The widest garage door possible and the highest one possible. That is, my house garage is a 7 feet door; go 8 feet at least. Plenty of lighting. Insulated garage door. If you are remotely interested in dust producing toys ie saws sanders etc, build in dust extraction now. Bigger electric panel than you would possibly ever need.
As someone who engages in and is enamored by the auto detailing world, and lives in Texas, I'd opt for the in-floor drain. It's generally not a good idea to wash your car in direct sunlight, as the soaps and such that you may use to wash your car can potentially dry on the surface and leave behind water spots that aren't good for the paint (and look bad). When you wash in a garage, it's still a concern, but you don't have to worry about the sun speeding up the process, especially here in Texas where the sun can be really brutal during the Spring and Summer months. So if it's not that much extra work to add, I'd definitely go for it. However if you really don't care about some water spots on your car's paint, then it's really not a concern and you shouldn't worry about it. It's really just another nice-to-have at that point. Overall I am loving the series though guys. I appreciate that you both know when to call in the pros to handle the stuff that's way out of our league. Love the channel, love the project, and hope to stick around to see the final product.
I dont know if this is current or not but look into renting a Georgia buggy/concrete buggy its like a powered wheelbarrow if you guys are planning on wheelbarrowing dirt it will save you a lot of work.
The back rack and a goal post extender for your hitch is great for hauling that amount of lumber. Together not too expensive ($250 for the backrack $100 for the tailgate extender). You can also use the goal post extender horizontally if you need 12' sheets of drywall in the 6.5' bed you've got.
I’m excited to see this project! Y’all helped me a ton when I did my bathroom. Now home projects have stopped at my house till I finish paramedic school. When I’m done next year I want to do a lot more! Good job guys!
Great work young man , a tip for ya , when I use my excavator and I am on a ground pac like yours . I use the back side of the bucket and scratch the surface down a bunch of times in long strokes , this compresses the loose top and creates a sharp edge. And then I use the bucket the regular way. Seat time baby.
My best advice at this point would be to get that pile of dirt at rear of slab moved out away either before you pour your slab or very soon after. It could be the death of you otherwise
Some codes require a slope to drain garage floors. Most garages in our area have a curb that the walls sit on, a few inches above the sloping floor. In fact the curb is poured with the footing and the slabs are often a separate pour. Do they really call those footings "grade beams" in Texas? In California we'd just call this a "footing" ("continuous-", "perimeter"- "spread footing" etc.). A grade beam implies that it is a structural concrete beam that sits on piers.
Grade beams are not footings. A footing is a separate perimeter slab that holds up a foundation wall. In Texas because they do not have many basements poured they instead use slabs to build a house with. The soil in Texas is either this crazy stuff where it is muddy or a rock. They do not have a lot of in-between. As a result of the poor soil they put in grade beams to reduce the movement of the slab. The beams will be poured at the same time as the slab so it is one monolithic concrete slab. Since they do not get a lot of freezing temps the depth is just to keep movement from happening. When the grade beams are dug they should have at least 2 interior beams but probably 4 that will create dirt squares from which just a slab will be placed on it.
@@mdhofstee Are these going to be structural slabs? I guess we'll see in the coming episodes. They seem to have enough to do without taking time to show the plans.
@@salty_flightdeck_cpo I think they have pretty complete plans. However regardless of the slope question, I am surprised that they were estimating the floor elevation, and it wasn't established in the plans.
@@mdhofstee looking at the recent history of the world. "Since they do not get a lot of freezing temps the depth is just to keep movement from happening" would not be a great way to build something you want to last. Just saying. Check out Southern Cali under a couple feet of snow right now.. They dont think of themselves as getting "a lot of freezing temps" either but ill bet a ton of people who built to that "Idea" are paying hell to fix their houses after this recent climate swing.
I would enjoy some behind the scenes footage of the decisions you guys are making on a daily basis. not daily's videos but (Behind the scenes)BTS on the daily "off camera" discussions. would join you tube membership or third party monthly subscriptions. really enjoy the brainstorming on the spot.
I have a question. I was told to lower the blade while digging for precision. Seeing you guys runnnig the machine makes me think that it might not matter that much. Thanks for sharing so much of your lives and work with us. I really enjoy your humor.
Thanks for this video. I just did a similarly sized garage slab with 30" footing in a monolithic type pour. I too struggled with whether I should do forms or excavation of the footings first and couldn't find any videos or info on it. I did the footings first, and ran the forms long on two sides to get them staked in away from the footing. Then the kickers every 2ft, but they were perpendicular to the form, not 45 degrees, for more support. It held up great but took much longer to get the forms in than expected. I'm excited to see how you guys finish!
If you are a car detailing enthusiast you NEED a drain in your garage. In TX we do have those months we’re it’s extremely hot outside and washing a car in a semi climate controlled garage is preferred.
I live in Texas and just built my shop with a drain. Lol. Because… it’s windy and dusty here! My shop is sealed up tighter than, well, it’s tight. I put Prosoco red guard under the bottom base plate all the way around (except garage of course), spray foam, exterior weather strips around garage as well.
You guys were cracking me up that you have a machine digger (excavator) there and yet, you were moving dirt with shovels. 🤣
Well you have to learn somehow. Keep it up and you'll get better. You might eventually decide to move into the heavy equipment side. 🤷♂️
Good video! 👍
i wish i would have found this channel after this series was done. i hate waiting a week for new episodes
😂
We have been spoiled by the Netflix age...
I felt like that about the shop build lol and now here we are 😂
I personally like it. Gives me something to look forward to...
I once watched a guy build his house mostly by his self. Watched just about all of it as it came out. It took like 5 years.
But he was just doing it on the weekends because he had a regular job and everything. Beautiful house. It was nice watching it being built. It was bittersweet to see it finished.
I'm going to say it again, Paul belongs on TV, he'd be a massive hit.
Jordan. I've ran a lot of equipment, and I will say that you picked it up pretty quick. What was especially good is that you realized early that you should always "scratch" the surface to avoid blow-outs. Great job, guy.
He's a natural. My son when he was alive was the same way. Anything was easy for him... Great job Jordan.
There is nothing better in the afternoon than watching a good Stud Pack video. Keep on building.
My first thought was "Wait, was that a handgun in his front seat?"
My second thought was "Well, I mean it *is* Texas. Have a good time."
My third thought: "Bruh, how bad is your neighborhood that you need to have a gun in your front seat when you head to the lumber yard?"
My fourth thought: "Remember, it's Texas. It's less of a defensive necessity and more like a Texas Travel Mug"
TH-cam might not be happy seeing that weapon in this video. They are strict about de-monetizing videos that violate their "standards".
@@salty_flightdeck_cpo It's not a weapon; it's PPE (Personal Protective Equipment). A tool to protect!
@@salty_flightdeck_cpo Let me just make enough space here for me to be wrong about this. Ok. There. An incidental glimpse of something is not what they are demonetizing videos for, is it? It has to be "featured" or be present in the video for a long time. If you walked into an sporting goods store and talked about fishing rods and the like, while there was a rack of long arms behind the counter that you didn't talk about or acknowledge- Maybe, since their algorithm likely detects LOTS OF PEW PEWS. But walking by a display? Very unlikely. :) I mean come on, it's not like we are talking about 'tiddies'.
Great to have you guys as Texans!
Easily my favorite channel to watch. From start to finish on every project you guys cover A to Z and that’s much appreciated!
Thanks Bobby! 🙏🏼
i find it amazing how quickly you were able to find professional help in such a short time.
You all have a special channel here. Really enjoy the father/son aspect of this. How cool is it to build your dream home with your dad! Good stuff.
You guys do great work and are very skilled. As a concrete guy for over 40 years, I don't know anyone who sets forms and then digs footings. Typically we dig and pour footings, then set the slab forms and pour the slab separate. Rebar is stabbed into the footings then bent over into the slab to connect them structurally. Aprons and porches are added on last. I live in the Midwest and I know things like this vary by region.
Jerry, that why I like watching guys in other regions do things!
What you described is pretty standard in FL too
Another great video. Thumbs up. Can't wait for the next one.
You guys should put some silt fence in around your spoils pile. Also dig the dirt off the neighbor's fence and put some so rain doesn't wash silt and mud into their yard. Not sure what a code inspector would say about it. I'm just used to having to do it on pipeline projects.
I build my monolithic slab foundations by digging the trenches first. I make them perfectly straight by laying out the string lines and using a 2x6 laid flat and staked down from the outside to hold it place. This 2x6 is used as a straight edge that I can run the excavator bucket against as I dig. It works very well. Our footers are 22” deep and 16” wide, with 1.5” of foam insulation board on the outside. By using an 18” bucket we end up with the extra 1/2” on the exterior of the form and foam, which we can easily backfill before pouring the concrete
Always dig footings first, then set form boards. We use upside down spray paint with a string line to keep it straight. The chances of hitting the form board or even loosening the form board stake seems high while excavating the footings with the form boards in place.
Again I have to just bring up this point. Make sure your back garage door is wide enough to accommodate the widest trailer you will be using (definitely wider than 8 feet). You never know when you might need to pull the trailer to the back to accomplish your projects. When planning, wider is better. Please keep the great videos coming.
My last house had 8 foot wide garage doors, the current house has 9 foot wide garage doors, if I can suggest your pull through doors with a full size pickup is far easier and less stressful to travel through. You’ll be far happier by having that extra foot in width. How tall will your doors be? I just built my daughters house and installed 8 foot tall doors so she can easily fit a Tahoe or Suburban etc.
You’re doing a great job so far and look forward to it all taking shape.
LOL I had 9' doors and just opened them up to 10'. It's like driving through the grand canyon now!!!
Getting "This Old House" vibes with you talking to the contractor
You guys need to put episode number in the title. Like new house build episode 1 and so on. Easy for people to watch it if they just found you in the middle
You have a great project, we or at least I want to see it all👊.
I would come out the front with a minimal slope for about the length of a car/truck, before a sharper ramp down to the street. This gives you an almost flat area to work on your vehicle, as well as a flat area to setup a table saw etc.
Might be better to do that with the back door.
Man, I was on pin and needles watching the mini excavator straddling the beam. Great job handling that machine. The project is starting to gain steam.
Everything's looking great guys.
This must be the best channel on TH-cam!! I love the videos and I really love to see a dad and son working together
As an architect and builder, I find the regional differences in construction methodology rather interesting. I'm in Tucson, and virtually everyone here uses round steel "nail stakes" to set their concrete forms. I don't think I've seen a wooden stake in over 25 years.
For the uninitiated, nail stakes are pointed 3/4" (sometimes 7/8" or 1") diameter steel rods with a series of nail/screw holes one inch apart along the entire length, and usually 90 or 60 degrees to each other to make adjustments easier. They commonly come in lengths of 12" to 72", but even longer ones can be found. They are generally driven at least 6" below the footing or grade beam excavation, so there is no need to restake if there is a blowout or collapse of the trench side.
you should mount a wide angle camera on the existing house so you can have a timelapse of the work done
That's a great idea. The overhead shots would be great
You are blessed to have you Dad in the ditch. Great father.
"Rocking out to Colin Ray" I don't think I've ever heard anyone say that, but I grew up listening to his stuff, so I like that you sorta plugged him.
Hey stud pack, if lift up your right foot rest, there should be a pedal that moves left and right. This pedal will move the entire boom assembly from center to hard left or right while keeping the machine facing the trench @ 90 degrees.
If you're already running a waste pipe out of the garage (presumably you are, for the living area upstairs), it seems crazy to me to not go ahead and throw a couple floor drains in the garage! Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems to me like you're only talking about a couple hundred bucks in materials and maybe a day of work for something that even if you don't use it for washing cars/etc, still serves as a huge peace of mind feature - giving you somewhere to squeegee water if the garage floods, making it so you can hose out big messes, etc.
They are going to have big holes in the front and back walls to squeegee out water if needed. 😉I like the idea of sloping the floors to the doors rather than more plumbing.
I like having the drain in the floor, so I can pull a hose out, spray the floor, and push all of the water to the drain.
@@rogermccaslin5963 that doesn't do much good when it's raining cats & dogs in texas and it's flooded outside, and you have nowhere to move the water that's coming into the garage. That alone - the prospect of helping to prevent thousands of dollars in flood damage - is worth the ~$200-$300 it'd cost to install a floor drain or 2.
@@Jutilaje
If it is flooded 16 inches above the storm drain (the claimed height of the slab), where do you think that water going down the drain is going to go? Do you really thing the sanitary sewers aren't going to be over capacity?
@@rogermccaslin5963 how would rainwater get into the sanitary system? That's literally the whole point of a municipal storm water drain system - so rain doesn't get in the sanitary system and cause major backups/etc.
And it doesn't have to be legit full-on flooded 16" over the storm drain for the yard & garage to potentially flood somewhat - just that the rain is coming down faster than it can move to the storm drain. I live in Florida and this happens pretty regularly.
And again, regardless how remote the possibility, we're talking about like $200 in materials here. We're not suggesting they completely reengineer the pad, install a complicated, expensive ground tile system/etc. just that while everything is open and they're running a sanitary line to the garage anyways, to go ahead and do the extra couple hours of work to tie a few floor drains into that same sanitary line. It's one of those things that only takes a couple hundred bucks to do now, but thousands of dollars to do down the road if their intended use changes, and that can be surprisingly useful in ways you didn't expect.
I don't know what kind of work you intend to do in the garage, but something to consider is an anchor point. A steel loop anchor below floor level that you can hook a chain to for a hold down point. A buddy put one in his garage. He uses it to straighten a race car frame by chaining down the car/frame and jacking up the bent (down) section. Just a chunk of steel in a re-enforced footer and cup the slab around the loop. Make a simple cover when not in use.
I appreciate your detailed explanations.
Smashing that "LIKE" button with precision... you're killing it!!! I can't wait for the next part of the stud pack house.
Good work. It’s building science, but not rocket science. You’ve got this.
Land of ice and snow here. I couldn't imagine a garage with no drainage slope, it's even useful in summer when you hose down the floor to get all the crap off it - weld spatter, grinding dust, the odd oil stain.
Love the detail and explanation of the process. Many can take for granted the all the small steps in explaining the process when it has become second nature and forget what it was like to be such a novice. Keep up the great work and thanks for filling in the gaps. I’m here taking notes.
One big thing you forgot... after you strap your load you are supposed to slap it and say "that ain't going anywhere".
You guys rock once again. Love it. Keep up the great job. I’m sure is gonna turn out beautiful guys. I learn so much just watching your videos on the real. 👍🏼👍🏼
you guys seem more confident and comfortable in front of the camera with every video. even all the way in Australia iv gained a lot from your videos. keep it up👍
A few people have commented on the "grade beam". A grade beam is similar to a footing except that a grade beam, is required to maintain a continuous footing through a large opening such as a garage door opening.
Always easier to dig and rough grade before forms are in. But this process is interesting to watch. Good stuff
I am a TH-cam nut. And you guys are the best thing going on TH-cam. Keep up the good work. I know we’re all loving taking this journey with you. You guys rock!!!!!
That BIG Mound of dirt across the back is going to drain into your work site. Push it back 10ft at least. Good luck My Friends.
You guys are killin it. I’m hooked on this build. The custom bathroom was great. I’m getting into this one.
Loving my new Stud Pack hat! Keep on building, boys!
The way that compacted fill shifted in sheets when you excavated along the back is why I think compacting with a sheepshead roller is best because each laid down layer of dirt is vertically integrated with layers below and above which creates a solid block rather than layers which can have water infiltration over time.
Yeah, compacting dirt with smooth drum doesn’t really work. I was really surprised it passed compaction test.
We call them sheepsfoot rollers here in Tucson, but I do agree with you. The combination of the roller lugs and vibration make for superior compaction and greatly reduces the layering. The downside is that the vibrations can travel pretty far though the soils, which might create some issues with adjacent neighbors. Still, just using the lugs is a big improvement over a smooth roller.
@@HisboiLRoi we also call them sheepsfoot in California.
@@borispysarev9899 Yes - 'sheepsfoot' or 'ramsfoot.'
this layering effect with infiltration from surface water is precisely why slurry asphalt roads in los angeles and other places fall apart as they use only a process which gives the cosmetic appearance of performing maintenance, they take all thr tax money and provide inadequate services. whereas the knowledge and research already exists in the experience and minds of the well informed, the foolhardy or greedy are the ones making our long term road maintenance choices.
I like that idea of sloping the floor to the doors, even if only a little.
Also, in my old shop we cut and ground a ramp into the floor at the doors to get rid of the lip so when we drove forklifts in and out there wasn't that drop. Hard-tire forklifts slam pretty hard even when you only drop an inch or two. We started with the original lower height of the apron side of the door and cut in about 18 inches sloping up to the garage floor height. I know you guys probably won't ever have hard-tire forklifts to deal with but rolling anything in or out is easier with out the drop.
Damn guys, busted 31 minutes, I feel like I totally got my money's worth today.... love watching the process and the learning curve. Keep it going...
Been following you for a few years now. This foundation series is epic.
Hey stud pack. A day one viewer here. Still think that gas lamp working was so awesome. First comment but iv been watching forever and learned so much from you guys i love the humor the tips the tricks the editing the relationship u guys have its all amazing. Keep it up!! 👍🏻
guys, switch to TJI or engineered joists and get rid of that interior wall if possible. its for stairs or for a small room than nvm !
I am really "digging" this whole thing! You guys are at a new level! Keep going.
😅
Stud Pack in the video. Pun Pack in the comments. 😆
I just gotta say y’all are doing a fantastic job with this series and the channel all together! 👏🏼 I definitely feel like you are building a community and that I am a part of it. 💯💯💯 good work gents!
Just finished a bathroom/2 bedroom remodels. Floors/doors etc. You guys keep me inspired for more " projects".!!
He did the good ol hit it to make sure it's on, it's not going anywhere!
You guys are amazing! Been along almost since the beginning and it’s fun watching you grow in several different ways!
Please listen to the other viewers and add in that garage drain! Super worth for the long term!
Good video, I think Jordan picked up the operation of that excavator really quickly. Can’t wait to see it all ready for the concrete.
I'm surprised Victory Outdoor Services hasn't reached out to yall. SP and VOS.....Two of the most entertaining channels on YT.
Before water comes into your garage, your neighbors yard will become a swimming pool
Couple long metal or wood stakes all the way down to the footer would give peace of mind in my opinion
Great work 👍
By the time you guys are done with this slab, Jordan will be a pro on that mini ex! Loving this series... Keep up the great work! Miss Y'all here in BR. Next time y'all come back to town, hmu and we'll build you a nice rack for the truck...
😬 I hope the weight of the water doesn’t force the plastic down into the trench! Great work on the mini ex 👍
Excellent work Stud Pack! Making good progress towards the concrete pour.
I'm like a kid on Saturday morning waiting on cartoons. I was like ahhhh not posted yet. So I cleaned up the yard came in and yeah new episode. I can't wait till next week. Go StudPack!!!
It's good to see you got all that yellow liquid barrier off your Smith & Wesson
We made our own concrete forms almost 20 years ago and it came out OK. But we were doing it for a shed, not a garage. When I worked at a zoo we had floor drains in some prep kitchens for animal feed. The outlets had covers so you could literally hose down the whole room and everything would go down the drain.
Jordon is doing great with that excavator!
I'm looking forward to seeing the next video.
Great work guys!!
Some suggestions for the garage. A 220/240 outlet on every wall. You never know what tools you may require in the future and it is cheaper to install from the start. Numerous electrical outlets on the walls. Electrical outlets in the ceiling for drop down power eliminating tripping hazards. A door into the garage other than the large garage doors. The widest garage door possible and the highest one possible. That is, my house garage is a 7 feet door; go 8 feet at least. Plenty of lighting. Insulated garage door. If you are remotely interested in dust producing toys ie saws sanders etc, build in dust extraction now. Bigger electric panel than you would possibly ever need.
As someone who engages in and is enamored by the auto detailing world, and lives in Texas, I'd opt for the in-floor drain.
It's generally not a good idea to wash your car in direct sunlight, as the soaps and such that you may use to wash your car can potentially dry on the surface and leave behind water spots that aren't good for the paint (and look bad). When you wash in a garage, it's still a concern, but you don't have to worry about the sun speeding up the process, especially here in Texas where the sun can be really brutal during the Spring and Summer months.
So if it's not that much extra work to add, I'd definitely go for it. However if you really don't care about some water spots on your car's paint, then it's really not a concern and you shouldn't worry about it. It's really just another nice-to-have at that point.
Overall I am loving the series though guys. I appreciate that you both know when to call in the pros to handle the stuff that's way out of our league. Love the channel, love the project, and hope to stick around to see the final product.
I dont know if this is current or not but look into renting a Georgia buggy/concrete buggy its like a powered wheelbarrow if you guys are planning on wheelbarrowing dirt it will save you a lot of work.
Thank you guys for your videos. I really enjoy your channel.
The back rack and a goal post extender for your hitch is great for hauling that amount of lumber. Together not too expensive ($250 for the backrack $100 for the tailgate extender). You can also use the goal post extender horizontally if you need 12' sheets of drywall in the 6.5' bed you've got.
As much as I love watching Stud Pack videos I love them even more seeing you exercising your 2A rights!
I’m excited to see this project! Y’all helped me a ton when I did my bathroom. Now home projects have stopped at my house till I finish paramedic school. When I’m done next year I want to do a lot more! Good job guys!
Great work young man , a tip for ya , when I use my excavator and I am on a ground pac like yours . I use the back side of the bucket and scratch the surface down a bunch of times in long strokes , this compresses the loose top and creates a sharp edge. And then I use the bucket the regular way. Seat time baby.
My best advice at this point would be to get that pile of dirt at rear of slab moved out away either before you pour your slab or very soon after. It could be the death of you otherwise
Agreed, that's going to be a pain in the ass every day. I don't know why they didn't move it out in the first place.
@@randymyers5086 I hope Paul sees this and does something because it will be nothing but problems.
I would have pushed it out with the kat. That property is too low. Use that dirt to your advantage...
I believe the house is getting demolished...I think Paul said they would take out the dirt after that...through that area.
@@markarita3 he did say that ,but why try working around that. It's going to be in the way everytime they work on that side of the house.
Some codes require a slope to drain garage floors. Most garages in our area have a curb that the walls sit on, a few inches above the sloping floor. In fact the curb is poured with the footing and the slabs are often a separate pour. Do they really call those footings "grade beams" in Texas? In California we'd just call this a "footing" ("continuous-", "perimeter"- "spread footing" etc.). A grade beam implies that it is a structural concrete beam that sits on piers.
You are spot-on. Their architect should have provided detailed drawings for this project and established floor elevations.
Grade beams are not footings. A footing is a separate perimeter slab that holds up a foundation wall. In Texas because they do not have many basements poured they instead use slabs to build a house with. The soil in Texas is either this crazy stuff where it is muddy or a rock. They do not have a lot of in-between. As a result of the poor soil they put in grade beams to reduce the movement of the slab. The beams will be poured at the same time as the slab so it is one monolithic concrete slab. Since they do not get a lot of freezing temps the depth is just to keep movement from happening. When the grade beams are dug they should have at least 2 interior beams but probably 4 that will create dirt squares from which just a slab will be placed on it.
@@mdhofstee Are these going to be structural slabs? I guess we'll see in the coming episodes. They seem to have enough to do without taking time to show the plans.
@@salty_flightdeck_cpo I think they have pretty complete plans. However regardless of the slope question, I am surprised that they were estimating the floor elevation, and it wasn't established in the plans.
@@mdhofstee looking at the recent history of the world. "Since they do not get a lot of freezing temps the depth is just to keep movement from happening" would not be a great way to build something you want to last. Just saying. Check out Southern Cali under a couple feet of snow right now.. They dont think of themselves as getting "a lot of freezing temps" either but ill bet a ton of people who built to that "Idea" are paying hell to fix their houses after this recent climate swing.
Great job fellas!!!!! I’m really loving the way you share every experience with the process, the good and the bad!!!
Great job with the first grade beam gang. The straddle had me biting nails!! Jordan is a born pro on the machine though and got is handled :)
Jordan has a Donald Sutherland looks about him. He kind of reminds me of Oddball on Kelly's Heros. 🤣🤣🤣
I would enjoy some behind the scenes footage of the decisions you guys are making on a daily basis. not daily's videos but (Behind the scenes)BTS on the daily "off camera" discussions. would join you tube membership or third party monthly subscriptions. really enjoy the brainstorming on the spot.
Great job guys it's coming along nicely keep up the good work :) and Thanks for always sharing with us!💖👍😎JP
You guys are killing it. Can't wait for the next one
Jordan getting good with the excavator! 👍👍
I would have built the pad even higher. It's still very close to the ground level and I wouldn't want any flooding or bad drainage.
M&P M2.0 hanging out on the center console?? I love it.
Great job!
I have a question. I was told to lower the blade while digging for precision. Seeing you guys runnnig the machine makes me think that it might not matter that much. Thanks for sharing so much of your lives and work with us. I really enjoy your humor.
I can’t wait for the Timelapse of this project after it’s completed!
Awesome content. Not far off from 500k subs… I’d bet you hit 1million by the end of this build series. You make even the boring stuff interesting.
Thanks for this video. I just did a similarly sized garage slab with 30" footing in a monolithic type pour. I too struggled with whether I should do forms or excavation of the footings first and couldn't find any videos or info on it. I did the footings first, and ran the forms long on two sides to get them staked in away from the footing. Then the kickers every 2ft, but they were perpendicular to the form, not 45 degrees, for more support. It held up great but took much longer to get the forms in than expected. I'm excited to see how you guys finish!
Neat stuff! I can't wait to see this whole project finished.
luvin it all ... the jpurney is the living rainbow dream.. and the pot of gold is at the end.. from beerwah down under
If you are a car detailing enthusiast you NEED a drain in your garage. In TX we do have those months we’re it’s extremely hot outside and washing a car in a semi climate controlled garage is preferred.
I live in Texas and just built my shop with a drain. Lol. Because… it’s windy and dusty here! My shop is sealed up tighter than, well, it’s tight. I put Prosoco red guard under the bottom base plate all the way around (except garage of course), spray foam, exterior weather strips around garage as well.
I love that you guys practice your 2nd amendment!!!
You Guys are doing great, I think it was a good idea getting the help with the form work. Its looking bichen.
Haven’t checked in for a few weeks, and it’s awesome to see the foundations being prepped! 🙌
I Just Love Your Videos 👍.I am wishing you great luck for this project 👍👍.
You guys work hard and it will be so worth the extra effort and planning. Love your channel.