For rebar 1- order your horizontal and vertical lengths with 30-inch bends on one end so you can just tie it instead of bending them all yourself. Even if you have a bender, it's a ton of work to bend it yourself. The rebar company has hydraulic benders/ cutters that make it easy, and it doesn't cost that much more to have them do it. Plan out each piece and order it that way. It will save you a ton of time and a backache. You need a 2' overlap. Check your local codes, but that's what it is in Utah. 2- See if you can rent an automatic wire tie-er. It is a battery-operated tying device that does it all for you. Just load wire and pull the trigger. It will save you days in wire tying time. And blisters, too😊. I think Awesome Framers did a video on these. Love your videos! Thanks for having us along on your adventure.
Wire tiergun is a good idea. I doubt you have much more than three bars in the bottom third of the beams, and verticals for block work… you are probably using 6x mesh on top and a few bars at openings so your rod busting should be super quick. Suggest yellow ‘keel’ (crayon) to mark cross members and verticals (don’t use spray paint as it’s typically not allowed per code). Don’t put a rebar stake in and tie off to it to keep the steel from moving as moisture will follow the stake to you bottom rebar and rust it out (also typically against code). 2” sand chairs can help hold the steel up in place for the pour. If your fill hit the right proctor scale then you shouldn’t have settling on the pipes and the sleeves will safe guard them anyway. Your area may require termite spray before moisture barrier. Also wondering if you’re adding ground insulation. A five gallon bucket w holes in the bottom and a small sump pump in it will help keep the footings dry…
In my area at least (Tucson), the additional cost to order bar pre bent and cut to length is less than the labor cost of doing it in the field. Tieguns are nice, but even double loop ties with a $5 twisting tool goes pretty fast.
Even though these home building videos are way beyond anything I'd be doing, it's alway good to learn and they are incredibly entertaining. Thanks guys!
Hey, you never know when you'll use knowledge you've seen in these videos. I have found that this knowledge is useful to someone that doesn't do these types of things themselves, but can tell when someone they hire is doing something not quite right and start asking questions.
One trick we utilise on any build that has the risk of concrete heave is to create a small concrete pad either side of the pipes, then you overlay with a concrete lintel or a concrete block, infill around the pipe, pads and lintel with suitable ground aggregate and then the lintel is encased in your concrete foundation utilising the rebar to tie the lintel to the pads to the overall foundation of the garage. This allows for the waste, water or any other fragile pipes to be effectively free floating with the confines of the pads, lintel etc. Thus any movement of the garage pad has no impact on the buried pipes. Also have you considered any risk from tree roots for your waste and water piping with possible future ingress (as you have loosened the soil the roots may have an easy access to grow and puncture into your pipes? Again we utilise some of the concrete left over to form a barrier outside your foundation that will divert tree root growth away from your build. Hope these small tips help.
Joe, I am a retired, pretty traditional plumber- Cast iron is what I think of for drain, waste and vent piping. As much as all that, PVC has shown it is a very suitable material for the purpose. Just getting any of it deep enough to be all in the sand of the pad will give it plenty of protection. PVC's greatest advantage, to me, is how well sealed a properly made joint is- if it has good coverage and then a short set up time before it is disturbed, you will literally have to break something for the water, and effluent to start leaking out and attracting the roots. Cast iron coupling systems have always had a problem that over time, the natural grow/shrink seasonal effect is to loosen or disconnect the surface coupling and leak- attracting roots from near and far. The couplers used on this pipe was awesome- I didn't get to see those twenty years ago- but I suspect the rubber will nearly fuse with the PVC over time. And it is outside the slab, where it would be simple to repair.
@@fredericrike5974 - Properly installed PVC waste lines are practically bullet proof. The key words are "properly installed". A friend of mine lives in a 30 year old subdivision in Gilbert AZ where schedule 20 PVC was used for all the waste and vent piping. She had to have her lines cleaned about every other year, so she finally got a plumber to run a camera. Apparently, cleanouts weren't required in Gilbert when the house was built, so they had to go down a vent. They found two spots with root intrusions. The first was where a branch to a vanity wyed into the main, a full eight feet under the slab from the nearest exterior wall. Someone forgot to glue a joint. The second was at a crushed and cracked section about eight feet outside of the slab where a large mesquite blew over in a windstorm. Schedule 40 would have likely survived that fall.
@@HisboiLRoi I would suspect the under slab lack of gluing was another shortcoming of that local code; most areas REQUIRED the use of primers that contained a very purple dye so that inspectors could see the joint had been prepared correctly. Most districts never allowed Sched 20- very thin PVC piping and fittings- to be used under any slab, most not even in unslabbed areas. Rainwater drainage yes, septic waters NO.
@@fredericrike5974 - I don't know of any jurisdiction in AZ that allows schedule 20 for DWV. The plumbers that did the repair on the crushed section were surprised to see it as well.
@@HisboiLRoi Damn! As far as I'm concerned any contractor thinking they could save a few cents by using an un approved material under a concrete slab should not only be fined but should be forced to pay for the proper replacement of sch.40 pipe. Also they should be throttled!
I dont know your plans.. But, I would lay a couple aux pipes in those trenches spanning front to back and side to side. You never know what cables or systems etc.. you may want or will be on market in the future! Just a suggestion!
Big fan of Stud Pack! Your channel is my favorite, and I love how you're showing each step of the process. No detail is too small to share. A couple of months ago in a discussion about designing the space, Paul talked about how great it is to have a floor drain in a kitchen and bathroom, and Jordan seemed to shrug it off. Jordan - you sure about that? I think your pops is onto something. It's such a benefit when cleaning, and if it's installed in a classy way (they way you guys always do) it can bring a space to the next level. Either way... thanks for bringing us along on this house build journey!
I love the idea of filling the pipes with water and having a ten foot tube create pressure to check for leaks. I've never seen it done that way here in Oregon. I've done a few plumbing jobs in my house but nothing that new so it's neat to see how things have evolved!
Thank God you guys are back. I’ve been checking every day. Laid up in the hospital having my recently replaced knee repaired and needed this Las test episode to keep my mind off the pain. Keep up the amazing content, you’re making me look like a super hero to my wife with all the new things I’m able to do with your guidance!
@@sharpshooter3369 I had my knee replaced December 22nd and the first night home a felt a pop with sharp pain. After a few months we discovered the joint capsule opened up and quadricep is bulging out and synovial fluid leaking into the muscle tissue. Pt didn’t help ignoring my complaints of pain on extension. So the little tear turned into a 3” tear that made it all worse. So it’s all fixed and mesh was put in place to hold everything together. Dr. Also put in a slightly bigger plastic because of an ever so slight minuscule side to side movement. Wish you well and fast recovery..
Near me is a concrete supply shop that does rebar fabrication. It was very cheap to have them bend all of my corners, verts, etc. I didn't even use a rebar bender my whole project it made things go so much faster. I just used what, around here, are called bag ties. Precut looped metal ties that you tie with a sort of twisting hook tool. For someone inexperienced, I'm sure it was faster than learning to tie rod the traditional way. I recommend spending extra on a vapor barrier meant for under slabs. Apparently the standard plastic isn't designed to hold up forever underground. Once I finished all of the cleanup on the footings, I had an old beater shop vac. I ran it without a bag or filter, to suck up all of the lose fluff soil that I couldn't get out. I was worried about that thin layer of soil settling. Probably overkill, but it worked well for me.
I really enjoy the breakdowns and love it when you guys interview the subs and get a feel for their skills and who they are. Incorporate that too in future videos if easy to do.
You guys are the most informative channel on TH-cam. I have been following you guys since I've started my home improvement journey. Love you guys and I'm so glad Paul is so knowledgeable. I have done. Alot of successful projects so far because of you guys. Thanks so much
I think you got a hold of a great plumber. Keep that connection. I’ve found if have a good sub, he has contacts with other good subs. Thanks S.P. Another video in the books. And WOW….. pushing 500k
I have plenty of respect for plumbers after I assisted one jackhammer a concrete floor and install a sump pump while my grandmothers basement was flooding in February. Knee high 34° water at one point. We were running 2-3 sump pumps just to keep the water at bay. It’s not an easy trade
Always enjoy your videos!! You should really consider having the pad treated for termites before putting down the vapor barrier. In Texas it’s not a matter of if, but when. It is much more effective in protecting your investment to do it now and also more cost effective. Can’t wait to see it all come together! Keep up the great work!
Glad to see your plumber at work. I definitely would never use that coupling to tie into main on new construction. My plumber tied to put one on the new sewer main here completed on our 1940 remodel/addition. I told him he would fired on the spot for using that on his screw up. Had to fix it properly and call for new inspection.
Great video.!! Thanks for taking the time to explain what the plumbers did while they were still there. Its so rare to watch a construction video that includes the professionals. I also noticed the change you made ( I think it was a comment) in having both of you together in frame while recapping at the end. Great Job and I wish you both all the success in the world. Keep it up!!
Regarding reinforcement / rebar To keep the rebar at the right height when pouring the concrete use rebar wire dobies or rebar chairs. I have also heard it could be pulled up to the right depth on concrete pour day, but why add additional stress on concrete pour day. Rebar dobies are a piece of wire in a precast concrete block that are used to support and hold steel reinforcement bars (rebar) in place when pouring concrete. Rebar chairs are small, plastic or metal devices that accomplish the same goal. They are placed on top of the compressed gravel or soil and under the rebar in order to keep the rebar elevated and spaced properly. This allows the concrete to flow freely around the rebar, creating a strong bond between the rebar and the concrete. To hold the lattice together until the concrete is cured, it is necessary to tie the rebar at the intersections. To tie rebar, a wire or rebar tie is wrapped around the rebar and twisted to hold it in place. Rebar gangs will use a rebar tie wire spool and simple wire twister. If tying rebar is not your everyday job, there are precut wires with loops on the end and wire twisters that just require pulling. I personally like the $25 or so automatic rebar tie and the pre-cut wire ties more than the $8 wire twister and the pre-cut wire ties. However, either will do the job. Rebar ends could impale a worker. To prevent this there are rebar safety caps. Rebar safety caps are small plastic or rubber caps that are placed on the top of steel reinforcement bars (rebar). Without rebar safety caps, the exposed ends of the rebar can be sharp, and can cause injuries to workers and others on the construction site. Using them is a small investment that allows workers to move quicker around the site without fear of injury.
Awesome video as always. The lightbulb came on in my head and I realized what the purpose of that pvc plug in my front flower bed is now! Thanks for showing us everything guys
Glad to see the plumbing being taken care of. It hasn't been mentioned a lot during the prep for the slab, and I was wondering when it was going to be taken care of. Thanks, y'all. Oh, and you're a couple hundred miles south of me, but welcome to Texas.
That's awesome! Anyone know where these training videos for Home Depot go? Because every time I go there, the staff knows nothing about the products they sell.
That slab is definitely going to settle guys. You’re in my backyard and every slab settles in this soil. I own many homes here and they all settle period. Not crazy about that plumbing design. Sleeves should have been done in advance and the sewer pipe ran though them to preserve structural strength of the sleeve. Engineer 101. 40 years as a real estate investor seen it all and fixed it all. Have 5 projects going right now. Just finished a foundation leveling and complete replacement of all below grade PVC on one of our properties. Would love to buy u guys lunch sometime if your in San Antonio.
Jordan - I have to nudge you that a lot of women are watching your channel. (Yes, we are!) We're binge-watching Stud Pack like Breaking Bad or Game of Thrones. I'm never going to build my own house, but I'm fascinated by even the smallest details. I've started doing my own projects and I follow your prep and finishing advice. You've helped me tremendously with planning out a project and doing it right. It's saved me a ton of time and gut-wrenching mistakes. And hey, If you throw up a women's v-neck t-shirt, I'd have to get myself one!
I was so glad to see the rough in plumbing done before the slab being poured. I kept checking for this video to be uploaded to see if rough plumbing was going to be completed first.
Soo....now that I can stop biting my nails, it's good to see your back and nothing happened to you! You two continue to put out quality videos on step by step procedures for your builds. But, what is even better, you point out what could go wrong and how to avoid it. Excellent job.
I love you guys, you're the greatest! Paul, you seem like a very loving, doting father and it's a joy to see how you and Jordan interact so well on these videos. The fact that I learn a lot from your videos is an added bonus. I can see that in the not too distant future you and Jordan will have your own TV show.
Idk what your concrete guys are saying, but id recommend using some crusher run under your vapor barrier, it compacts very nicely and in all works very nice for keeping your slab even.
Wrap sill seal foam around pipes coming up in concrete so with any expansion/settling it gives room for the plumbing so the pvc doesn’t snap in the concrete over time
Welcome back! Love the tips & tricks in your videos and that you encourage people in the trades to share in the comments section. Tips & tricks are always paid for in blood, sweat and tears, so they're worth their weight in gold
@@tannerwest6823 yessir, from the old part of the house that’s still standing where his main is still there in assuming , when he connects the pass way from garage to house it will run through the framing
Glad you’re back! I was wondering why you wouldn’t put a clean out right where the pipes go up to the toilet over the garage. It could be on the side of the garage where you wouldn’t see it and I can’t imagine it would cost you any more. Not criticizing, just curious.
My best guess for why the sleeving: so that with thermal expansion and contraction over the years, it keeps the PVC of the inner drainage pipe from being abraded and stressed or thinned out. Ditto for any settling or earthquakes moving things around.
Have you thought about conduit connections between the garage and new house for electrical, data and other smart home functions? Also having a plant room, don’t put it in the hallway closet. Put it somewhere that the vibrations or noise will not be an issue.are you looking to install smart electric blinds, they can be set up so they will adjust every day due to the GPS location. That means you never get a glare on your television and it will keep your house warm or cool depending on the location/day/year it is awesome. Audio/multi room/party mode. If you put in a pool, you have to have a pop up tv at the end. TVs behind the mirrors in the bathroom and kitchen touch screen/tv control centre. I have worked with many brands, they are all very good and most of the main infrastructure is the same. Love the channel and your content.
Good thinking on the blinds! It might make sense to plan on running low voltage wiring for them during framing/electrical/rough so you don’t have to use battery-powered blinds.
I will definitely say it looks and sounds like y’all got a good plumber in there who knows his stuff on these slab rough in’s. He was very good on informing you of exactly what he’s done and is going on. My one question, did he stub up somewhere for the main water line?
Suggestion: Use yellow Stego as a vapor barrier, especially with a living space above.. it comes in different thickness’s, I used 15 mill, you might also want to tape any seams with the special tape they have. If your going to paint or epoxy coat the garage floor, this will keep moisture from coming up and causing the paint/epoxy to delaminate.. Nows is also a good time to add the french drain, or possible insulation before concreting the floor.. Foamular 250 is 2.5” rigid 4’ x 8’ R10 insulation, works well.
Your geotechnical report should note total settlement and differential settlement. Most occurs during framing and you’ll never notice it. You need a little gap or air space to prevent crushing. Make sure the sleeve is located so it’s centered around the pipe, not laying on top of it. Keep up the good work!
I'm with you on the sub's leaving trash. We would always get an a$$ chewing if we didn't do our housework on commercial sites. Just had a shop put up and the concrete guys left trash everywhere including making a fire when the sun went down to stay warm (Mid-january and cold) and left all their burnt trash and melted water bottles. Then the shop guys came and left trash everywhere. Doesn't even make sense to me. Put the trash can out by the shop after day one and they threw their stuff away after that. Hauling your lunch and snack garbage away with you just seems so common sense to me!!
That was a great video. It’s so fun to watch people do a quality job! It’s going to be a great day when the two of you can stand in front of a wonderful accomplishment and say, "we did this.". I’m really looking forward to that.
The sleeve on the pipes ensures that there is some allowed movement. When you drain a tub, or flush a toilet there is a lot of weight in the pipes. If they were ridged in the concrete you could see cracks develope on either side as you create a knife edge right where the pipe exits the concrete. This sleeve also allows for thermal expansion and contraction of the pipes.
Wow. So much to building a house. If I could do it all over again, I would have become an all in one builder. Since I can’t, I’ll continue being a retired military man. Retired at 48 and proud of it. Ok ready for your next video 👊👍
Good to see y'all again guys! What about water supply lines? Conduits for power or data? I still can't comprehend the slab being less than 2 feet from the property line. How will you do any exterior finish work? Even worse, you still have the big gorilla in the yard, that massive spoils pile. How are you going to access it to remove it off site? I see almost all of your trenches are saturated...the water table is extremely high. Has drainage been accounted for? All of these items should be addressed before going any further. I don't mean to be a whiner, but these are all items that I have run into in the past, and the further you go, the price tag goes up exponentially. Good luck gentlemen!
The pipes are in the footing, not under it. The sleeves, and a pipe wrap, allows the pipe tp expand and contract slightly differently than the concrete, so that does not create stress cycles that crack the pipe. If the fooing settles, your pipe will move with it. That creates a shear stress on the pipe where it comes out of the side of the footing, if that section of pipe does not settle with the footing or as far as the footing does. Having bigger space around the pipe, within the footing, allows for more differential settlement without breaking the pipe, if the space is hollow or filled with a compressible material. If a pipe is under a footing, and the footing settles when the pipe settles less or not at all, then there can be both shear stresses put on the pipe as well as compressive, or crushing stresses. Good design tries to avoid creating opportunities for things to go wrong, while proper construction methods give everything the best chance of not failing over a lifetime of use. The key in this case is absolute dedication to proper compaction, and keeping those soil conditions where they should be until everything is sealed up. Pad compaction is easy. Keeping the botoms of trenches, and the backfill put into trenches across the pad properly compacted is a lot harder. One example is digging under a footer, how do you compact the soil again all the wy to the bottom of the footer, to support it? If the span is short, say a shovel width or less, then no great worries. If the span of the footing across tne trench is vreater, then this issue becomes a huge one. The answer, by the way, is a strong flowable backfill, as strong as the soil, that flows into every nook and cranny between the foundafion and the undisturbed soil, holding up the foundation. No large bubbles allowed, though. Most failures in fohndations nd slabs on grade trace back to poor compaction practices in utility trencbes, sometimes made worse by having standing wafer saturafe and weaken previously compacted soils, especially when it does so unevenly below a structure.
Your guidance is spot-on. I would like to see the specific guidance that was given by their architect and engineer. It appears that there is too much ‘winging it’ taking place.
You would have liked seeing the first big wave of newer hotels back in the 90s. Luxor, MGM, Treasure island all going up at the same time. Never seen a concrete job like the Luxor. Very cool you guys got to spend some time there.
as a kid we ran A MILE of water line from town to my grandfathers new home. we had the pipe in the trench most of the way i believe AND it RAINED, even tho we had spots held down with some dirt the line floated !!! so i got to get in the trench (was small enough to walk down it) and use a hoe to dig the dirt out from under the line where it had caved in while floating.
@@AndrewStrydomBRP then go for it. Let's see how many years it will take for you to pay off 25-30k in a solar system 🤣 - Like I said, this is all a scam.
@@macster1457 That's a naïve simplistic view. You're right it takes a while to recover your initial investment, however calling it a "scam" is ridiculous.
@@macster1457 12 panel 4kw system cost $6k in CA without tax incentives. With Net Metering, my electric bill is $5 to10 a month. Normally $100 during winter and $140 during summer. Battery backup cost $10k so not worth it now. The new Net Metering for installs after April will increase your bill by a buck. Electric companies finding out they not making money from people with solar so the State Government trying to help them.
Glad y'all are back in Texas it's always the grade beams interior and exterior we have this problem where we live causing root issues from the the y connection digging it up from the outside in. There has to be like a chair or something that will support that line so that the pressure is disperse around the pipe this is a very common problem that I have found over and over again there has to be a better way of doing this. Im glad y'all are back and showing this specific part of the rough in process
ON the sleeve in the non bearing area- my read is the new code says "all", it doesn't leave much room for interpretation. BTW, the pipe expands and contracts a bit with the seasons and ground temp changes- the sleeves will let it adjust over a longer length without compromising the fittings and joints. Wish you had introed your plumber and hands- good looking workers and steady, follow the plan guys. Yer gettin' there guys!
From watching lots of other home improvement/build shows, the only recommendations I could make are get a box of premade rebar chairs and a powered rebar tying tool, to make your rebar work go easier.
If you gotta sleeve you might be able to pull the line back out if it should fail somehow. We had an oak tree discover the nutrient-dense source of water that was our sewer line. The steep hill in the front yard enabled the plumbers to only jackhammer a small area where the drains went into the slab and push a pvc pipe through the old clay pipe and clay soil from out front then connect to that with the drains. Unfortunately, we pulling up all the wood tile because we were sure that they were going to jackhammer all the way across the slab
I don't know about down there but up here in michigan where we have 14 seasons you sleeve pipes running through concrete beams because of thermal expansion and contraction concrete steel and pvc expand and contract at different rates so in order to prevent the pvc pipe from cracking you would sleeve it to leave room for it to expand and contract separately from the concrete it also leaves room for settling because everyone knows that your outside walls where all the load is will settle faster than the interior beams (where only a portion of the load is) will
STUD PACK "WHERE ARE YOU?" Lads I'm loving the vids but please show us more of the garage being built. when is the next installment? feels like ages since the last one. cheers guys, love to you all
For rebar
1- order your horizontal and vertical lengths with 30-inch bends on one end so you can just tie it instead of bending them all yourself. Even if you have a bender, it's a ton of work to bend it yourself. The rebar company has hydraulic benders/ cutters that make it easy, and it doesn't cost that much more to have them do it. Plan out each piece and order it that way. It will save you a ton of time and a backache.
You need a 2' overlap. Check your local codes, but that's what it is in Utah.
2- See if you can rent an automatic wire tie-er. It is a battery-operated tying device that does it all for you. Just load wire and pull the trigger. It will save you days in wire tying time. And blisters, too😊. I think Awesome Framers did a video on these.
Love your videos! Thanks for having us along on your adventure.
I was going to recommend a wire tier.
Wire tiergun is a good idea. I doubt you have much more than three bars in the bottom third of the beams, and verticals for block work… you are probably using 6x mesh on top and a few bars at openings so your rod busting should be super quick. Suggest yellow ‘keel’ (crayon) to mark cross members and verticals (don’t use spray paint as it’s typically not allowed per code). Don’t put a rebar stake in and tie off to it to keep the steel from moving as moisture will follow the stake to you bottom rebar and rust it out (also typically against code). 2” sand chairs can help hold the steel up in place for the pour. If your fill hit the right proctor scale then you shouldn’t have settling on the pipes and the sleeves will safe guard them anyway. Your area may require termite spray before moisture barrier. Also wondering if you’re adding ground insulation.
A five gallon bucket w holes in the bottom and a small sump pump in it will help keep the footings dry…
In my area at least (Tucson), the additional cost to order bar pre bent and cut to length is less than the labor cost of doing it in the field. Tieguns are nice, but even double loop ties with a $5 twisting tool goes pretty fast.
You're back!
Yay they are back
You guys don't need to promise any constancy in uploads as long as the content remains good and authentic 💪
Even though these home building videos are way beyond anything I'd be doing, it's alway good to learn and they are incredibly entertaining. Thanks guys!
Hey, you never know when you'll use knowledge you've seen in these videos. I have found that this knowledge is useful to someone that doesn't do these types of things themselves, but can tell when someone they hire is doing something not quite right and start asking questions.
One trick we utilise on any build that has the risk of concrete heave is to create a small concrete pad either side of the pipes, then you overlay with a concrete lintel or a concrete block, infill around the pipe, pads and lintel with suitable ground aggregate and then the lintel is encased in your concrete foundation utilising the rebar to tie the lintel to the pads to the overall foundation of the garage. This allows for the waste, water or any other fragile pipes to be effectively free floating with the confines of the pads, lintel etc. Thus any movement of the garage pad has no impact on the buried pipes. Also have you considered any risk from tree roots for your waste and water piping with possible future ingress (as you have loosened the soil the roots may have an easy access to grow and puncture into your pipes? Again we utilise some of the concrete left over to form a barrier outside your foundation that will divert tree root growth away from your build. Hope these small tips help.
Joe, I am a retired, pretty traditional plumber- Cast iron is what I think of for drain, waste and vent piping. As much as all that, PVC has shown it is a very suitable material for the purpose. Just getting any of it deep enough to be all in the sand of the pad will give it plenty of protection. PVC's greatest advantage, to me, is how well sealed a properly made joint is- if it has good coverage and then a short set up time before it is disturbed, you will literally have to break something for the water, and effluent to start leaking out and attracting the roots. Cast iron coupling systems have always had a problem that over time, the natural grow/shrink seasonal effect is to loosen or disconnect the surface coupling and leak- attracting roots from near and far. The couplers used on this pipe was awesome- I didn't get to see those twenty years ago- but I suspect the rubber will nearly fuse with the PVC over time. And it is outside the slab, where it would be simple to repair.
@@fredericrike5974 - Properly installed PVC waste lines are practically bullet proof. The key words are "properly installed". A friend of mine lives in a 30 year old subdivision in Gilbert AZ where schedule 20 PVC was used for all the waste and vent piping. She had to have her lines cleaned about every other year, so she finally got a plumber to run a camera. Apparently, cleanouts weren't required in Gilbert when the house was built, so they had to go down a vent. They found two spots with root intrusions. The first was where a branch to a vanity wyed into the main, a full eight feet under the slab from the nearest exterior wall. Someone forgot to glue a joint. The second was at a crushed and cracked section about eight feet outside of the slab where a large mesquite blew over in a windstorm. Schedule 40 would have likely survived that fall.
@@HisboiLRoi I would suspect the under slab lack of gluing was another shortcoming of that local code; most areas REQUIRED the use of primers that contained a very purple dye so that inspectors could see the joint had been prepared correctly. Most districts never allowed Sched 20- very thin PVC piping and fittings- to be used under any slab, most not even in unslabbed areas. Rainwater drainage yes, septic waters NO.
@@fredericrike5974 - I don't know of any jurisdiction in AZ that allows schedule 20 for DWV. The plumbers that did the repair on the crushed section were surprised to see it as well.
@@HisboiLRoi Damn! As far as I'm concerned any contractor thinking they could save a few cents by using an un approved material under a concrete slab should not only be fined but should be forced to pay for the proper replacement of sch.40 pipe. Also they should be throttled!
Paul when you closed with 'getting ready To Build'...yeah,, that shot right through Jordan and that smile lit up the street!! wonderful guys!!
I dont know your plans.. But, I would lay a couple aux pipes in those trenches spanning front to back and side to side. You never know what cables or systems etc.. you may want or will be on market in the future! Just a suggestion!
You would have to sleeve them all and widen he trenches out. That’s a good idea, but not worth it imo
You're back fellas. Happy Easter everyone 🐇🐣🐰
"have you seen that before?"
"Yes, hence the stakes everywhere"
LMAO
Big fan of Stud Pack! Your channel is my favorite, and I love how you're showing each step of the process. No detail is too small to share. A couple of months ago in a discussion about designing the space, Paul talked about how great it is to have a floor drain in a kitchen and bathroom, and Jordan seemed to shrug it off. Jordan - you sure about that? I think your pops is onto something. It's such a benefit when cleaning, and if it's installed in a classy way (they way you guys always do) it can bring a space to the next level. Either way... thanks for bringing us along on this house build journey!
I love the idea of filling the pipes with water and having a ten foot tube create pressure to check for leaks. I've never seen it done that way here in Oregon. I've done a few plumbing jobs in my house but nothing that new so it's neat to see how things have evolved!
Thank God you guys are back. I’ve been checking every day. Laid up in the hospital having my recently replaced knee repaired and needed this Las test episode to keep my mind off the pain. Keep up the amazing content, you’re making me look like a super hero to my wife with all the new things I’m able to do with your guidance!
get better soon alfredo, god bless
This must be knee week. I had mine replaced on Wednesday. I was looking forward to distraction from the pain. Thank you.
I had TKR 8 years ago. For me recovery was 3 weeks of extreme pain even with oxycontin. But it passed finally and doing great now. Patience!
@@sharpshooter3369 I had my knee replaced December 22nd and the first night home a felt a pop with sharp pain. After a few months we discovered the joint capsule opened up and quadricep is bulging out and synovial fluid leaking into the muscle tissue. Pt didn’t help ignoring my complaints of pain on extension. So the little tear turned into a 3” tear that made it all worse. So it’s all fixed and mesh was put in place to hold everything together. Dr. Also put in a slightly bigger plastic because of an ever so slight minuscule side to side movement. Wish you well and fast recovery..
@@programmer6428 thank you so much. Have a great holiday weekend.
Jay the Plumber was great on camera. Good guest star!
Near me is a concrete supply shop that does rebar fabrication. It was very cheap to have them bend all of my corners, verts, etc. I didn't even use a rebar bender my whole project it made things go so much faster.
I just used what, around here, are called bag ties. Precut looped metal ties that you tie with a sort of twisting hook tool. For someone inexperienced, I'm sure it was faster than learning to tie rod the traditional way.
I recommend spending extra on a vapor barrier meant for under slabs. Apparently the standard plastic isn't designed to hold up forever underground.
Once I finished all of the cleanup on the footings, I had an old beater shop vac. I ran it without a bag or filter, to suck up all of the lose fluff soil that I couldn't get out. I was worried about that thin layer of soil settling. Probably overkill, but it worked well for me.
I really enjoy the breakdowns and love it when you guys interview the subs and get a feel for their skills and who they are. Incorporate that too in future videos if easy to do.
Woo-hoo! So glad to have y'all back! So ready to get this ball rolling again!
You guys are the most informative channel on TH-cam. I have been following you guys since I've started my home improvement journey. Love you guys and I'm so glad Paul is so knowledgeable. I have done. Alot of successful projects so far because of you guys. Thanks so much
I think you got a hold of a great plumber. Keep that connection. I’ve found if have a good sub, he has contacts with other good subs. Thanks S.P. Another video in the books. And WOW….. pushing 500k
“Two Tons Of Steel”. Great band.
it's nice for you to show how hard plumbers work, it's not always inside a nice dry house.
and even indoors, many times it's back-breaking work
I have plenty of respect for plumbers after I assisted one jackhammer a concrete floor and install a sump pump while my grandmothers basement was flooding in February. Knee high 34° water at one point. We were running 2-3 sump pumps just to keep the water at bay. It’s not an easy trade
Always enjoy your videos!! You should really consider having the pad treated for termites before putting down the vapor barrier. In Texas it’s not a matter of if, but when. It is much more effective in protecting your investment to do it now and also more cost effective. Can’t wait to see it all come together! Keep up the great work!
in TN. always treat the pad. 😁
Many states require pre-treatment on new residential construction, as do the FHA and HUD over most of the country
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Could not agree more! Treat it now before you do any fill in or around the slab, or landscaping. It’s so much easier and cheaper to do it now.
Glad to see your plumber at work. I definitely would never use that coupling to tie into main on new construction. My plumber tied to put one on the new sewer main here completed on our 1940 remodel/addition. I told him he would fired on the spot for using that on his screw up. Had to fix it properly and call for new inspection.
Great video.!! Thanks for taking the time to explain what the plumbers did while they were still there. Its so rare to watch a construction video that includes the professionals. I also noticed the change you made ( I think it was a comment) in having both of you together in frame while recapping at the end. Great Job and I wish you both all the success in the world. Keep it up!!
Regarding reinforcement / rebar
To keep the rebar at the right height when pouring the concrete use rebar wire dobies or rebar chairs. I have also heard it could be pulled up to the right depth on concrete pour day, but why add additional stress on concrete pour day. Rebar dobies are a piece of wire in a precast concrete block that are used to support and hold steel reinforcement bars (rebar) in place when pouring concrete. Rebar chairs are small, plastic or metal devices that accomplish the same goal. They are placed on top of the compressed gravel or soil and under the rebar in order to keep the rebar elevated and spaced properly. This allows the concrete to flow freely around the rebar, creating a strong bond between the rebar and the concrete.
To hold the lattice together until the concrete is cured, it is necessary to tie the rebar at the intersections. To tie rebar, a wire or rebar tie is wrapped around the rebar and twisted to hold it in place. Rebar gangs will use a rebar tie wire spool and simple wire twister. If tying rebar is not your everyday job, there are precut wires with loops on the end and wire twisters that just require pulling. I personally like the $25 or so automatic rebar tie and the pre-cut wire ties more than the $8 wire twister and the pre-cut wire ties. However, either will do the job.
Rebar ends could impale a worker. To prevent this there are rebar safety caps. Rebar safety caps are small plastic or rubber caps that are placed on the top of steel reinforcement bars (rebar). Without rebar safety caps, the exposed ends of the rebar can be sharp, and can cause injuries to workers and others on the construction site. Using them is a small investment that allows workers to move quicker around the site without fear of injury.
On rebar caps… even if not required by code, seeing them in place tends to make inspectors smile and think kind thoughts.
Awesome video as always. The lightbulb came on in my head and I realized what the purpose of that pvc plug in my front flower bed is now! Thanks for showing us everything guys
Double combo facing each other is an easier to use clean out option if you have room. Great job and good work guys.
I made the same comment as well. We call them "bullhorns".
Glad to see the plumbing being taken care of. It hasn't been mentioned a lot during the prep for the slab, and I was wondering when it was going to be taken care of.
Thanks, y'all. Oh, and you're a couple hundred miles south of me, but welcome to Texas.
You guys ever think about making a twitter or a discord community? More frequent status updates would be super nice! Been missing your videos!
you could also lay pvc pipes to the road for your cables, dk if it's possible with your code tho
That's awesome! Anyone know where these training videos for Home Depot go? Because every time I go there, the staff knows nothing about the products they sell.
Your Home Depot employees at least acknowledge your presence 😂
I love all of this project talk and how it is coming together. It is a BIG job! Plumbing is looking good!
In Texas, a plumbing video and no Roger Wakefield cameo ? 😢 😢
That slab is definitely going to settle guys. You’re in my backyard and every slab settles in this soil. I own many homes here and they all settle period. Not crazy about that plumbing design. Sleeves should have been done in advance and the sewer pipe ran though them to preserve structural strength of the sleeve. Engineer 101. 40 years as a real estate investor seen it all and fixed it all. Have 5 projects going right now. Just finished a foundation leveling and complete replacement of all below grade PVC on one of our properties. Would love to buy u guys lunch sometime if your in San Antonio.
Been waiting patiently for this video guys! Keep it up excited to see this build and please make sure to film the plumbing and HVAC!!
Jordan - I have to nudge you that a lot of women are watching your channel. (Yes, we are!) We're binge-watching Stud Pack like Breaking Bad or Game of Thrones. I'm never going to build my own house, but I'm fascinated by even the smallest details. I've started doing my own projects and I follow your prep and finishing advice. You've helped me tremendously with planning out a project and doing it right. It's saved me a ton of time and gut-wrenching mistakes. And hey, If you throw up a women's v-neck t-shirt, I'd have to get myself one!
I was so glad to see the rough in plumbing done before the slab being poured. I kept checking for this video to be uploaded to see if rough plumbing was going to be completed first.
Good to see you guys too!!!
YES!!! Let’s GO!
Been looking forward to your uploads!
Missed you guys! Great return to Vegas. That plumber knew his stuff.
Soo....now that I can stop biting my nails, it's good to see your back and nothing happened to you! You two continue to put out quality videos on step by step procedures for your builds. But, what is even better, you point out what could go wrong and how to avoid it. Excellent job.
Awesome can’t wait to see the slab pour 👍
"What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas" lol Really like the channel and videos. Keep up the great work!
Glad to see you all back. Can’t wait to see steel & wood finally going up.
I love you guys, you're the greatest! Paul, you seem like a very loving, doting father and it's a joy to see how you and Jordan interact so well on these videos. The fact that I learn a lot from your videos is an added bonus. I can see that in the not too distant future you and Jordan will have your own TV show.
Thx Lynda!👍
Idk what your concrete guys are saying, but id recommend using some crusher run under your vapor barrier, it compacts very nicely and in all works very nice for keeping your slab even.
Wrap sill seal foam around pipes coming up in concrete so with any expansion/settling it gives room for the plumbing so the pvc doesn’t snap in the concrete over time
Welcome back! Love the tips & tricks in your videos and that you encourage people in the trades to share in the comments section. Tips & tricks are always paid for in blood, sweat and tears, so they're worth their weight in gold
Imagine all the man hours required to hunt down and stack up all that straight dimensional lumber from HD.
Glad to see you BACK on the build
Nice to see all the drains in and approved. What about the water lines, how will go in the foundation?
They don’t go in the foundation
The main line has to come up somewhere. Even if you run all the water lines overhead and insulate them
@@tannerwest6823 yessir, from the old part of the house that’s still standing where his main is still there in assuming , when he connects the pass way from garage to house it will run through the framing
Great content PAUL and Jordan. You guys deserve a break. Good luck on your project. Lots of work ahead of you.
Yippie!! We are glad for a new video!! TY guys!
Glad you’re back! I was wondering why you wouldn’t put a clean out right where the pipes go up to the toilet over the garage. It could be on the side of the garage where you wouldn’t see it and I can’t imagine it would cost you any more. Not criticizing, just curious.
What about the water service to garage?
My best guess for why the sleeving: so that with thermal expansion and contraction over the years, it keeps the PVC of the inner drainage pipe from being abraded and stressed or thinned out. Ditto for any settling or earthquakes moving things around.
Your plumber is doing a good job!💪💪
Have you thought about conduit connections between the garage and new house for electrical, data and other smart home functions? Also having a plant room, don’t put it in the hallway closet. Put it somewhere that the vibrations or noise will not be an issue.are you looking to install smart electric blinds, they can be set up so they will adjust every day due to the GPS location. That means you never get a glare on your television and it will keep your house warm or cool depending on the location/day/year it is awesome. Audio/multi room/party mode. If you put in a pool, you have to have a pop up tv at the end. TVs behind the mirrors in the bathroom and kitchen touch screen/tv control centre.
I have worked with many brands, they are all very good and most of the main infrastructure is the same.
Love the channel and your content.
Good thinking on the blinds! It might make sense to plan on running low voltage wiring for them during framing/electrical/rough so you don’t have to use battery-powered blinds.
I will definitely say it looks and sounds like y’all got a good plumber in there who knows his stuff on these slab rough in’s. He was very good on informing you of exactly what he’s done and is going on. My one question, did he stub up somewhere for the main water line?
Suggestion: Use yellow Stego as a vapor barrier, especially with a living space above.. it comes in different thickness’s, I used 15 mill, you might also want to tape any seams with the special tape they have. If your going to paint or epoxy coat the garage floor, this will keep moisture from coming up and causing the paint/epoxy to delaminate.. Nows is also a good time to add the french drain, or possible insulation before concreting the floor.. Foamular 250 is 2.5” rigid 4’ x 8’ R10 insulation, works well.
Your geotechnical report should note total settlement and differential settlement. Most occurs during framing and you’ll never notice it. You need a little gap or air space to prevent crushing. Make sure the sleeve is located so it’s centered around the pipe, not laying on top of it. Keep up the good work!
I'm with you on the sub's leaving trash. We would always get an a$$ chewing if we didn't do our housework on commercial sites. Just had a shop put up and the concrete guys left trash everywhere including making a fire when the sun went down to stay warm (Mid-january and cold) and left all their burnt trash and melted water bottles. Then the shop guys came and left trash everywhere. Doesn't even make sense to me. Put the trash can out by the shop after day one and they threw their stuff away after that. Hauling your lunch and snack garbage away with you just seems so common sense to me!!
Was starting wonder what happened to you guys. Turns out you’re out playing. 😂😂 Glad your back! 👍
That was a great video. It’s so fun to watch people do a quality job! It’s going to be a great day when the two of you can stand in front of a wonderful accomplishment and say, "we did this.". I’m really looking forward to that.
The sleeve on the pipes ensures that there is some allowed movement. When you drain a tub, or flush a toilet there is a lot of weight in the pipes.
If they were ridged in the concrete you could see cracks develope on either side as you create a knife edge right where the pipe exits the concrete.
This sleeve also allows for thermal expansion and contraction of the pipes.
Wow. So much to building a house. If I could do it all over again, I would have become an all in one builder. Since I can’t, I’ll continue being a retired military man. Retired at 48 and proud of it. Ok ready for your next video 👊👍
That’s awesome John my best bud retired at 49. Thx for your service 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
There is NO substitute for EXPERIENCE !!!!
I’ve been checking religiously to make sure I didn’t miss an episode! I’m glad you’re back, looking forward to more.
Good to see y'all again guys!
What about water supply lines?
Conduits for power or data?
I still can't comprehend the slab being less than 2 feet from the property line. How will you do any exterior finish work?
Even worse, you still have the big gorilla in the yard, that massive spoils pile. How are you going to access it to remove it off site?
I see almost all of your trenches are saturated...the water table is extremely high. Has drainage been accounted for?
All of these items should be addressed before going any further.
I don't mean to be a whiner, but these are all items that I have run into in the past, and the further you go, the price tag goes up exponentially.
Good luck gentlemen!
I was thinking the same
I knew it out having fun instead of working. You know that garage isn't going to build itself. Kidding
Great to see that the plumber was willing to talk about what and why they did things.
Silver Fox was out on the prowl in Vagas 😂 Welcome back! Always glad to see a new Stud Pack video out!
Ask and I shall receive!! Glad to have you guys back!
i like ur plumber alot, he knows what hes talking about. 👍
0:41 mARTIN GARRIX!!!!!! I LOVE THAT GUY!!!
The pipes are in the footing, not under it. The sleeves, and a pipe wrap, allows the pipe tp expand and contract slightly differently than the concrete, so that does not create stress cycles that crack the pipe. If the fooing settles, your pipe will move with it. That creates a shear stress on the pipe where it comes out of the side of the footing, if that section of pipe does not settle with the footing or as far as the footing does. Having bigger space around the pipe, within the footing, allows for more differential settlement without breaking the pipe, if the space is hollow or filled with a compressible material. If a pipe is under a footing, and the footing settles when the pipe settles less or not at all, then there can be both shear stresses put on the pipe as well as compressive, or crushing stresses.
Good design tries to avoid creating opportunities for things to go wrong, while proper construction methods give everything the best chance of not failing over a lifetime of use. The key in this case is absolute dedication to proper compaction, and keeping those soil conditions where they should be until everything is sealed up. Pad compaction is easy. Keeping the botoms of trenches, and the backfill put into trenches across the pad properly compacted is a lot harder. One example is digging under a footer, how do you compact the soil again all the wy to the bottom of the footer, to support it? If the span is short, say a shovel width or less, then no great worries. If the span of the footing across tne trench is vreater, then this issue becomes a huge one. The answer, by the way, is a strong flowable backfill, as strong as the soil, that flows into every nook and cranny between the foundafion and the undisturbed soil, holding up the foundation. No large bubbles allowed, though.
Most failures in fohndations nd slabs on grade trace back to poor compaction practices in utility trencbes, sometimes made worse by having standing wafer saturafe and weaken previously compacted soils, especially when it does so unevenly below a structure.
Your guidance is spot-on. I would like to see the specific guidance that was given by their architect and engineer. It appears that there is too much ‘winging it’ taking place.
You would have liked seeing the first big wave of newer hotels back in the 90s. Luxor, MGM, Treasure island all going up at the same time. Never seen a concrete job like the Luxor. Very cool you guys got to spend some time there.
Glad ya had a good time in Vegas. Never been there, thanks for the video pictures. Glad to have ya'll back and progress is going forward.
Glad y’all are back. I was having a Stud Pack withdrawal lol
Good job recognizing a crew that cleans up after themselves
Awesome fellas!!! Can't wait to see this project move forward n the final structure
I missed my Stud Pack fix the past few weeks. Thank goodness you’re back.
Stud Pack fell off my feed due to the algorithm messing with everything but I found ya again!!
as a kid we ran A MILE of water line from town to my grandfathers new home. we had the pipe in the trench most of the way i believe AND it RAINED, even tho we had spots held down with some dirt the line floated !!! so i got to get in the trench (was small enough to walk down it) and use a hoe to dig the dirt out from under the line where it had caved in while floating.
Out of curiosity, are you planning for solar? I enjoy all of your videos, tips, and tricks. Thanks.
@@macster1457 And? Once it pays itself off it's free power for decades. Especially in texas which is a sunny state.
@@AndrewStrydomBRP then go for it. Let's see how many years it will take for you to pay off 25-30k in a solar system 🤣 - Like I said, this is all a scam.
@@macster1457 I intend to.
@@macster1457 That's a naïve simplistic view. You're right it takes a while to recover your initial investment, however calling it a "scam" is ridiculous.
@@macster1457 12 panel 4kw system cost $6k in CA without tax incentives. With Net Metering, my electric bill is $5 to10 a month. Normally $100 during winter and $140 during summer.
Battery backup cost $10k so not worth it now. The new Net Metering for installs after April will increase your bill by a buck. Electric companies finding out they not making money from people with solar so the State Government trying to help them.
Glad y'all are back in Texas it's always the grade beams interior and exterior we have this problem where we live causing root issues from the the y connection digging it up from the outside in. There has to be like a chair or something that will support that line so that the pressure is disperse around the pipe this is a very common problem that I have found over and over again there has to be a better way of doing this. Im glad y'all are back and showing this specific part of the rough in process
You have a lot of hard work ahead of you
Saw that older lady walking in the yard next door. A little incentive for Grandpa Stud Pack to visit Texas once the project is done.
ON the sleeve in the non bearing area- my read is the new code says "all", it doesn't leave much room for interpretation. BTW, the pipe expands and contracts a bit with the seasons and ground temp changes- the sleeves will let it adjust over a longer length without compromising the fittings and joints. Wish you had introed your plumber and hands- good looking workers and steady, follow the plan guys. Yer gettin' there guys!
I always did all my gambling down at the airport. $20 on standby for an earlier flight out!
Keep up the great content guys. I asked one of my younger contractors to subscribe and watch all your vids to help him improve his skills!!
Great to see you folks back in action.
From watching lots of other home improvement/build shows, the only recommendations I could make are get a box of premade rebar chairs and a powered rebar tying tool, to make your rebar work go easier.
Nice to see you as well been waiting for a update lets go stud pack 😎
If you gotta sleeve you might be able to pull the line back out if it should fail somehow. We had an oak tree discover the nutrient-dense source of water that was our sewer line. The steep hill in the front yard enabled the plumbers to only jackhammer a small area where the drains went into the slab and push a pvc pipe through the old clay pipe and clay soil from out front then connect to that with the drains. Unfortunately, we pulling up all the wood tile because we were sure that they were going to jackhammer all the way across the slab
I don't know about down there but up here in michigan where we have 14 seasons you sleeve pipes running through concrete beams because of thermal expansion and contraction concrete steel and pvc expand and contract at different rates so in order to prevent the pvc pipe from cracking you would sleeve it to leave room for it to expand and contract separately from the concrete it also leaves room for settling because everyone knows that your outside walls where all the load is will settle faster than the interior beams (where only a portion of the load is) will
Y‘all are back, great! Best from Berlin Germany
STUD PACK "WHERE ARE YOU?" Lads I'm loving the vids but please show us more of the garage being built. when is the next installment? feels like ages since the last one. cheers guys, love to you all
I kept checking your channel thinking I may have missed a video. Glad to see you back.
Awesome work Guys. Can’t wait to see All the progress on the next one!!Thank You For All the Great Videos
Great job and progress!