A lawn blower changed my practices. Blast the area clean of dirt, water, shavings, it's amazing when you have to kneel or lay down on a clean surface. When you have a clean site you have a clear mind. When a subby walks through a clean site, they deliver top notch work and clean up on the way out. It's amazing how thew fine details matter more during roughins with a clean site. Good work guys, I'm enjoying heaps.
Jordan you are super lucky to have a father so involved in your life. What a guy. He is full of knowledge, but even more one can tell he loves you. I know my faters name but he has never given me a minute of his time. You are a lucky man sir. I really enjoy watching the videos.
Finally! Man it would be amazing if a tool company like dewalt, ridgid, or milwaukee sponsored yall. They could give you a bunch of tools, especially cordless, so yall can finish up this house with them! I think it be a win win for both of yall.
Milwaukee nailers! I use both M18 and M12, absolutely love there stuff. As far as tool belts, I like Diamondback and Boulder. Boulder are more cost friendly. As far as hand tools go its all about personal preference. As you know, there are a million brands so that's your pick. Must haves for framing/finishing: Hammer, speed square, cats paw, mini pry bars, chalk line, nail sets, utility knife, tape measure, carpenters pencils, screw drivers (Klein tools have some great multi bit types) and a small or medium sized adjustable wrench. I know I forgot something... Electrics are a different story, lol. Good luck and God bless.
A friend of mine decided to build a new house by himself (with some help from friends). He was working 30 - 35 hours a week. A year into the build, his wife complained that it was taking a long time. He told her that when the first 2 things on the job site were a lounge chair and a cooler with beer, she should have known it wasn't going to be a quick job! Had to think about that when you 2 were sitting in chairs at the end. Good job. Thanks for teaching us and extra thanks for including your costs.
The Makita Mac 5200 3 H.P. is advertised to be able to run 2 nailers at a time. Probably my first choice. Nail the garage up by hand, its less than a days work, then use the nailers for the rest of the project. Don't listen to all the wannabe framers telling you to use the cordless guns for framing. Cordless tools are great just not for framing. Get the NR83A5 Metabo nail guns and you will be making a 100% correct decision.
I will be back home in Texas soon after 20 years of service. Your channel has convinced me to go ahead and tackle a lot of the process of building a home myself.
Here's my essential framing toolkit: - Buckaroo tool belt with diamondback bags - Milwaukee wood handled hammer - M18 "worm-drive" style cordless circular saw - Swanson speed square - Irwin "strait-line" pencils (seriously, they are way better than most of the other ones). - A few chalk boxes - A few tapes - Spencer loggers tape for large layout (steel tape doesn't stretch like the plastic ones) - Diamondback DB Sax for holding lots of nails when sheathing Don't forget a pair of wall jacks if you're going to try to lift pre-sheathed walls.
I agree -- Taylor Swift Tickets!!! I recommend letting the slab slow-cure. Cover the surface with wet burlap and a tarp to give it a good cure. You can help by spraying the surface with a boiled linseed oil that has a bit of whitening agent to let you see where it's sprayed. With the soil considerations in the Houston area, I'd suggest putting in the driveway next as the slab cures. Then proceed to the termite barriers, plate seals, hurricane straps and finally fast-tracked framing. You want all of the termite barrier that you can get. (My cousin bought a house in Southwest Houston there that turned out to have both subterranean termites and Asian termites. You could put your finger or a bar of soap through the studs after those termites were happy with their work, but running out of food.) In the 1960s I did framing the "old school way" with four different weights of hand-operated hammers (finish, 20 oz framing, 3 pound hand sledge and 15-20 pound sledge). In many ways not that much more "advanced" than timber framing techniques. The pneumatic hammers are better these days, but not for everything. I'm not ready to go for battery electric hammers for anything other than finish work (16 oz or less). Or consider corded electric screw guns for corners and the hurricane strapping that you will need on the gulf coast and tornado strengthening further north.
In my 40 years of doing carpenter work, the one simple thing I will never work without, a speed square. When it comes to framing there is nothing better then a good speed square, skill saw guide, quick angles for rafters and so much more. Just thought I would give you all a little tip. Have fun and be safe.
We used a thing called a squangle. You may remember them. They were better than a speed square for some things because they had a longer marking surface. Especially good for doing facia board and marking plum cuts on rafters. We took an 8 1/4'' worm drive skill saw and welded an extension on the front degree gauge so the saw could flop over further to cut the seat cuts out of the rafters we would stack up 30 or more rafters at a time.
@@CynthiaMilner I sure do remember them, and did use one back in the 80s and 90s. Now my carpenter work is on my own home keeping things in tip top shape, ( pushing 60 ) my big job days are behind me, unless a friend needs a helping hand with some project. Have a blessed day.
Yaaaay, It's finally done. When it downpoured in the last video even my wife groaned for you. It was looking like the elements just really didn't want you to finish this first critical step but it's finally done so congratulations. A Treatise About Tools: Dewalt or Makita all day for the battery tools but pneumatic nailers are better, faster, and cheaper than any battery nailer you can purchase today, I haven't check all battery models but most require a gas cartridge which is an addition expense. You don't need a huge compressor either, just one big enough to run 2 guns to start, plus, and I can't stress this enough, you're going to want an air nozzle to clean yourself and the work area off at the end of the day. Also, when the garage is built, you're going to be glad you have a compressor. Hand Tools: Buy a Estwing claw hammer and framing hammer. Other than that, you're going to need at least a 30' tape, a speed square, a 4 foot level, and pencils, don't forget pencils, you're gonna need a gross ton of them. As for the rest of the hand tools, there are home tool kits for $50-$100 buck that will have everything you need. When you start to figure out what you are looking for in a hand tool, and the ones you can't live without, you can start replacing them with better quality tools. Depending on the tool, I like Stanley, Klein, Rigid and Bosch. One Use Tools (tools you're not going to use again after you've done the job you needed them for): trust Harbor Freight, yeah they're gonna break, but they're better than you think and they didn't cost a lot. Rentals: Rent the tools you don't really need and can't afford to purchase of course but there will always be that little stressed out voice in the back of your head saying, you only have 2 hours to get this back, and it changes your workflow, makes the work less enjoyable and can lead to mistakes. So buy when you can. You can get all the tools you need without breaking the bank and it will leave room for those specialty tools that you didn't think of first.
40 yrs as a licensed home builder fan of StudPack channel here. "Hopefully, the worst is over!" is a comment I stopped using well over 39yrs ago because it's just never ever over. Prepare for more "worst" that no one can ever teach or that you really can prepare for. Just prepare to enjoy it and Have fun and rely on befriending and asking pro's for invaluable advice everywhere you can.😇
Most definitely go paslode for the framing gun. I personally have the paslode as well as the cordless milwaukee and I use the milwaukee more often than not but I’m usually not framing houses all day every day. The negative to the milwaukee is the weight of the tool but as much framing as you have coming up you’d rather deal with the negative of the paslode which is the gas which if I had that much framing to do I would say the gas is the lesser of the two evils. The paslode probably only weighs 60-70% of what the milwaukee does and believ me when I tel you it adds up.
And also. Get you a Martinez hammer. You can thank me later. And grab you a Perkins builder belt. For the price you can’t beat them. I love my Martinez and my Perkins belt. I’ve had the belt for six months now and still trying to get used to the suspender setup but my back sure thanks me. And I know people think the Martinez hammers are expensive. I swung estwing for years and if I lost my Martinez tomorrow I’d have one ordered by tomorrow night and gladly pay it again. My shoulder, wrist and elbow appreciate it that much
As another comments, I'm and Engineer - Civil - and yes, tarp the slap and wet it so that it does not dry out fast. It will be stronger, last longer and also prevent cracking as the tinsel strength bind better. Rule of thumb when building slab floors and remember do not seal it until 30 days have passed.
My gf just got home and I yelled out- they're getting the slab and foundation poured! She goes- thank God it's about time. We're feeling some second-hand relief for you guys.
Nice to see the concrete poured! That was a long road to get to this point. If the concrete can handle it I think dirt removal from the backyard should be before framing the garage. Great job guys!
I framed for 30 years. Cordless tools changed the game SO much. I am a Milwaukee fanboy these days cause their tool line seems to never stop expanding. If I had to recommend one tool for framing though, it would have to be the Stiletto hammer. 15oz and hits like a sledgehammer. The side nail puller is indispensable after you get used to it. Great vid guys. Keep up the hard work!
If I were a framer, a cordless one would for sure be a solid investment. As a home owner doing DIY that already had a compressor, I just bought an air powered framing gun and have loved having it. I'm not working 5 days a week, 10 hours a day with it and the hose Vs cost was an acceptable compromise.
How many batteries do you go through in a day on a production jobsite with cordless framing nailers? I've heard a lot of conjecture over the years about cordless vs. air tools, but only being a home-gamer, my viewpoint is rather narrow. :)
Congrats on a long awaited job and well done! I don't remember our first patio pour which was probably 1955, but the finish was aggregate. Style at the time. What I do remember was making all the concrete myself in 1962 and shlepping it bucket-by-bucket underneath the house where my Dad was troweling it in for a makeshift floor in a crawlspace storage area. There was lots more, houses being what they are. Happy now to be retired. I shall raise a glass to you and your continued efforts!
Here in Southern California there would have been way more anchor bolts and stab bolts holding strong walls, and hold downs for sheer panel. Looks like you guys have bolts every 4 feet or so. Also the garages here are set up on curbs for framing and the garage slab has slope to the garage door with a hard trowel finish. Love the job chairs.
Majority of building codes require garage floors to have slope to the exterior garage door opening. I agree with you on the exterior curbs. Having wall bottom plates raised above the floor slab makes hosing out the garage less destructive on the wall materials and the additional height of the curb also lessens the potential of water penetration from rain or slow draining ground runoff.
A lot of the time out here you build a footer for the exterior walls when building a slab on grade and all your j bolts get put in there. Then you come back and pour the slab, typically with up to 24" of gravel as the base and your expansion joint strip isolating the slab from the footer. Good idea also to cut control joints in the slab.
@@tomszabo7350 I have seen it done that way as you have described. I am a fan of the monolithic pour with control joints as you have noted. I usually put down plywood to protect the finished surface during framing, since the concrete is so green, it can get gouged pretty easy. I have seen the expansion joint strip raise up over time and fill with dirt which then creates other issues. The expansion joint style as you described is still a good way to go. It's just a personal preference.
I actually power troweled my like button before smashing it. Didn't wanna get scuffed up from the broom finish, ya know. Congratulations guys!! I've thought the concrete was going on the ground in the next video for like the last three weeks. I know it's been a long road and pricey road to get here, but your attention to detail, skillful contractors and of course, Mr. Ernie's design and engineering have produced a beautiful result. Looks like it should stand the test of time, too. Hope the rest is smooth and uncomplicated sailing.
I bought a Makita 5200 3 HP compressor. I'm a flooring installer and don't need something this large, but my old 2 HP Emglo twin tank died on a job. I needed something like .........like, RIGHT NOW, so I went to the pawn shop and bought this Makita 5200. The 5200 was much larger than I needed but it's a fantastic compressor. It has two hose connections and I think goes up 150 lb. If you ever decided to do some minor spraying or use an air chisel or something that consumes a lot of air, you'd need a bigger compressor. I would highly recommend this one. I bought mine for $170 at the pawn shop, while locally they were closer to or just over $400. You wouldn't regret buying this one. He's got wheels and a fold-down handle. Nail guns are one thing but think of the future. Will you ever want to use this to run an impact gun, an air chisel, or something that consumes a lot of air? You're not going to paint a car with this, but...... ......look into this one. It's very highly rated everywhere you look. Tho it's 3 HP, on a weak electrical circuit, it starts much easier than my old 2 hp Emglo ever did. It's not overly loud either. Glad to see that slab done. 👍
Hang in there! I just spent 15k on a new 30 year roof (1400 sqf house) in CA and that was by far the cheapest quote out 8 that I got! I should have done it 2 years ago when I was quoted $9k for a similar roof replacement with ridge vents. I figured that prices would stabilize after pandemic, but its only gotten worse.
Hitachi 21 degree plastic collated framing nails guns only! Frame everything laying down. Stand up, top plate, level and sheet. I'm in Weatherford if you need anything.
Looks great! Would've been epic if you guys were able to have a time lapse aerial view with the camera on the edge of your roof or gutter or something showing the whole pad. Either way, It came out great. I bet you guys are so relieved to finally have the slab done haha
*Stud Pack* Hay fellas growing up in the business I started installing rebar in 1977, and I'll have to say you all did a fine job. Keep us posted on your progress. GOD Bless.
California Air Tool compressors are amazing!! More expensive than your traditional compressor but they are whisper quiet. Seriously, who wants to listen to the rattle of a pan cake compressor on the job site? Worth it!
So excited for you Jordan. It must feel so nice to have a solid start now. I can't wait to see what happens next! Thank you all so much for showing us the nitty gritty details.
It is nice to see for a change the reinforcement be done properly, with distance spacer in between the ground and the mesh, all securely connected. I have seen other big companies from US here on youtube pour concrete over reinforcement lying on the ground without even connecting it and behaving like they are the kings of this job.
I would look into the high pressure stuff and shy away from cordless. Ive got the M18 framing and for pickup work its great but the thing weighs a ton compared to pneumatic and when using it all day, weight matters. I prefer the metabo pneumatic nailers, affordable and reliable.
Congrats guys! One thing I can no longer live without is the drill! I used to put in all of the screws by hand not anymore!!! hahaha (i am not a home builder etc I am just a brown dude that was born into a family that did not understand that a drill could tighten screws on wood and other materials lol)
Like I was told after buying an old house and finding that the floors under the nasty carpet were garbage along with floor joists that were crunchy, "you are going hate your life until it all fixed but it will be the greatest day once it is done." I overdo everything so I had to cut and sister on both sides of the floor joists in a room that was 21 ft long. Glue, screw and then the same for all new subfloor (still need ceiling work downstairs for stepping through a couple of times). But now that floor is like the rock of Gibraltar. Keep pushin! On to the next...
Paslode PowerMaster Plus pneumatic framing nailer is a beast. Mine is 20 years old and still rocking. Granted you gotta drag hoses around all day but the battery nailers are too friggin slow. Worm drive Skilsaw is the saw that built America. Get a worm drive and a regular 7.25” skilsaw. 99% of your cuts when framing will be made with the skilsaw. Add an Estwing framing hammer, speed square, a couple chalk lines, a suspension filled with all the other normal framing tools. You can leave your cordless crap on the chargers…not needed in framing.
Seeing that rain come down right before the pour was soul crushing, and you could see it on Jordan's face. Coming from a low like that to this has to be a phenomenal feeling. Congrats guys.
From Lake Stud Pack to swamp Stud Pack to the Stud Pack Slab, you guys perservered. Congrats! I framed a basement recently, and we used a nail gun on a compressor. It saved time over driving in via hammer, but the newer battery operated ones would have been better I think. The cord was constantly in the way and with something that big, the hose is going to be a nightmare. As for tools, a good speed square, some sort of nail gun and a chop saw was all we really needed. We did use a ramset, but that was for interior walls on a slab and I know you guys prefer the drill and tap method. We made some 14.5 inch jig pieces to speed up the framing to get 16 inch on center studs. Can't wait to see walls going up!
Nice job !! Excited for your next video. Makes me giggle when I think of a dry pour for this job !! You can use a red brick to bevel the edges of the concrete when you remove the forms. Cheers !!
Have you considered accepting volunteers on certain dates to help you build? Would be interesting videos to see community support kinda like that Extreme home makeover show where groups of volunteers would show up to help. You guys always help other people so it would be interesting to see people having the opportunity to give back to you guys
I am not a big-time framer or anything, but had to build a 2 car garage by myself. I went with a cheap Rigid nailer from HD and it worked fine. You gotta ask yourself what tools are going to be worth paying the extra for. Youre on a budget and aren't getting paid by clients for work. Tools for 2-3 people will start adding up fast.
1) cut control joints in the concrete for cracking. 2) tarp it and keep it soaked for 2-3 weeks for it to harden. Wet curing it makes stronger concrete.
Having spent a few years living in Houston, I would recommend setting up drainage and moving most that select fill or your likely to continue to have to fight weather issues in addition to your other tasks.
Built my own house during the pandemic. Titanium hammer is a must to drive nails far and save your arms. I had good luck with a Paslode pneumatic framing nailer with a small pancake compressor. I also bought a palm nailer instead of a positive placement nailer all hangers. Palm nailer worked great and fit in tight places as well as being easier on the pocket book. Only other major tool I recommend is a sausage caulking gun. Alot of great products are cheaper to buy in bulk and use the sausage gun
Yes to the sausage gun. Also, I bought a couple sections of used scaffolding years ago. They have come in handy so many times. Upper story windows, soffit work, painting, etc.
I wouldn't do without my air nailer for nothing, I have gas and works fine but I never run out of air, light weight hose no problems, glad you finally got your pad, wet it down a couple times.
Truly a joy to be a part of the evolution of this channel. The editing and production quality are superb, and watching all of you become more comfortable in front of the camera is great. So happy to celebrate this milestone with you guys!
Stanley makes a few prybars that are a universal must have. They are a catspaw with a "whale tail"... They make several sizes. What makes them special is the roundover of the tail end. They got it right...Ive had other brands....forget em...We use them constantly for pulling nails, scraping, prying. Fits nice in the pouch.... I also bought nail bags that have a clip you attach to your belt. You can take them off or put back on, with ease. Get ones you can get your hands into easily, with a material that is strong, but doesn't scratch up your fine work...
Love the progress, Love the transparency from the Stud Pack crew. Congratulations on a huge milestone with that slab and looking forward to all the upcoming videos.
So glad I decided to get new countertops and redo the backsplash in my kitchen, it led me to this channel and I've been hooked! THIS is the kind of stuff I always wanted to see on HGTV. Glad to see that concrete on the ground!
I once polished concrete to a smooth finish by wet sanding it. It was for a counter top. With the right form, you can actually get to dry to a mirror finish without having to sand it.
What a milestone, guys. I've been fascinated at how much work goes into making a strong foundation. Here's hoping this house you're building lasts well after the AI overlords take over.
You guys are great . Most enjoyable seeing a father son effort and learning experience. I hope the You Tube $$$$ pays rewards for years to come. I missed your earlier videos -- Please tell us again how many sq feet that slab is. Something to consider…especially in areas where rain is common in the afternoon. Pour a spread footer and the grade beams. Build a block stem wall, framing on top. After the area is covered, then pour the slab.
I’m really proud for you guys! You kicked some major booty to get here and along the way reminded us of what honest hard work looks like. Stay strong because you are on your way!
Former old-school framer (as well as many other trades under my belt) who lived with the drag of dragging hoses around, if I had the choice today, I would get a battery-powered nail gun. I do have a M-18 finish nailer and that thing has never let me down.
holy crap! great work but the CO$T! im makin ok in Electrical but i gotta raise my rates, A LOT, im thinkn $50 hr base.. $100 if you watch me... $200 if you try to HELP
So glad the slab is done ! As far as tools get what fits your hand and feels good, but as far as a hammer make sure you get one with anti-vibe or has some type of shock absorber. After 40 years swinging a hammer and needing two wrist surgeries and one elbow surgery. A good hammer is a must
Wonder bar, good cats paw, good hammer with magnetic nail holder on top (waffle faced), stabila plate level, 4 foot stabila level, 40 foot tape measure, 10 foot tape measure, good framing nailer, palm nailer, good drill, good impact driver, rafter square, drywall square, compound miter saw, chalkline and reel, drywall rasp, etc.
Milwaukee makes killer drills and impact drivers. I bought an 18v kit last year, with the reciprocating saw...Sweet comfort.....Worthy tools. That new driver is quieter, with a adjustment level buttons for best control....Their Fastback razor knives are great too...One handed opening, with blade storage. I give Milwaukee tools 5 stars.
About tools: For PEX water piping, the expansion-type system (Propex etc.) is the only way to go. The expansion tool costs $400+ but it is a TOTAL LIFE-CHANGING EXPERIENCE compared to the crimp or copper ring compression systems. Totally worth it, and worth the trouble of finding the PEX-A pipe and expansion fittings (which aren't in retail stores, only pro plumbing suppliers)
Many years ago when I started out I was told to get a good pair of rubbery sneakers w/round cups in the soles and an eswing straight claw steel hammer! It can save your butt in a roof fall. Always keep it on the front belt hoop, you feel your slidin' ram that claw right in the roof and hold on! Sometime went by and once or twice I had to use it. Back then plywood went on the roof so it could be slippery. Nowadays that has been replaced by chemical treatment ply and different roof systems all together. Glad to see the start of worries begin. It will never go away and that is a good thing actually! Just when and if the crud gets a bit deep, go sit down and have a cool drink and a steak and try again later!
Looks good. Nice to see progress. Have you considered piles with a grade beam between the piles. Piles work if you have good earth under your soft soil Concrete lesson: Concrete will shrink and crack. You put cuts in it so it cracks on the cuts. Do not know about your area your concrete people could tell you what is normal in your area. Calk the cuts with elastomer, the type you see on side walks. If you put the bar in the bottom 1/3 it will hold the slab together under compression IE drive truck on it. If you put the bar in top 1/3 it will hold the top together and cracks will be very narrow. Good on patios. Long ago the rule for bar from external surface used to be 3 bar diameters or 1.5" what ever is greater. Saw some chairs under the bar on the floor. If they fall over pull the bar up as you pour. Do level survey on slab to see if it settles over the next year.
This video really hits home. My father in law is helping me build a semi inground pool in our yard...we're doing a lot of on the job learning and paying some beginner tax as well. He is above expert level DIY like you, Paul, but still always finding stuff you've never quite come across.
Hi from Canada..I know exactly what you are going through..I planned building my cottage a year ago then we got hit with supply issues and inclement weather. Lots of rain. Our foundation was finally poured last week and we are starting to frame. Like you fellas, it's exciting to finally see progress. Can't wait to watch your next phase. As for special tools, cordless is the way to go yet most importantly, a ripping hammer. And in my case given I've no electricity, so a generator is a great add on. Cheers
Cordless finish nailers are great but the cordless framing hammer (specifically Milwaukee‘s) is heavy…maybe not at first but after a whole day of handling it, it is fatiguing. I’ve gone back to pneumatic framing guns but love the Milwaukee line of trim nailers.
When it comes to the structure / sub-structure (dig out 5 feet, 2 foot / 6 grade beams, you get the idea) of a house, there is no such thing as overkill if you want a build that will last instead of fall down before it should have. Great Job, guys. Keep up the good work and keep the great videos coming.
Dont forget to run network wire (Cat6) once you are finished framing. There are affordable Power Over Ethernet or POE, CCTV systems with various amounts of storage space. Network Video Recorder or NVR for short. Installing cameras on your outter perimeter will prove to be a smart move. I am Big Fan of the Ubiguity products when it comes to home and business internet and network needs such as Routers, Switches, Wireless Access Points. A network switch will be essiential if your want to connect all your wired network devices like Computers, TV's,Gaming Consoles,Apple TVS, CCTV, Printers and even Wifif Antenna (inside and outside). Also plan out where you want to hang TVs and install plywood backing tied to your studs. This allows you to use a lagg anchors for your mounts. This will also help spread the load of the heavier displays like a 75 inch and larger.
Congrats on the milestone! I'm sure it's great to have that behind you. In regards to tools: I'm just a DIYer who reframed their basement and has helped my siblings with their own houses (honestly thanks to y'alls videos), but I love my Estwing Hammer-Tooth framing hammer. I used it a ton to straighten boards and keep my hand away from my nailgun. I also have a battery powered 21 degree nailer that I'm happy with, no idea how well it would hold up if I were framing every day, but I did do my entire basement with it. I liked that it allowed me to work on it late into the evening after work without the noise of a compressor.
Awesome work done with Mother Nature holding you down. I enjoy watching the work that y’all do in your videos. After each video is over I am anxiously waiting for the next video of entertainment. Thank y’all.
Congratulations! Let's just hope there isn't another storm the washes that mound of dirt back onto your nice new concrete. When we built my stand-alone garage we had to keep it wrapped in while working on the inside before the overhead doors were in. A guy who knew a guy who knew a guy came up with a couple used vinyl billboard signs. Giant tarps! And heavy too. After the building was finished it took some time to get rid of them. Something to think about as you progress through your entire build.
I have all the guns. I just bought a new Milwaukee stick framer. I like it but… it’s HEAVY! A air coil gun will hold more nails and is definitely lighter. You can get a bostitch coil gun that will shoot 90% of your nails. It will shoot framing nails, decking nails, and hardened nails into concrete. It’s very versatile! But a gun you CAN NOT live without especially framing is a strap nailer. Man it makes your life so much easier. Nailing in straps is so fast with one!
You had a legendary struggle to get this slab done and done right. It never hurts to be better than code. Never forget code is the minimum acceptable condition. I am glad you finally are at the point where you can do much of the work yourselves. It is looking good!
Great job! It's about time it got finished to this stage. As for tools, I can't suggest anything particular other than I like to have a couple different tool belts depending on what particular work (trade) I am doing framing & rough woodwork, electrical, and so on. I found having the right tools for the specific job is key and so is the tool belt to suit them. Keep up the hard work and can't wait for the next video.
Now might be a good time to start thinking about grading and drainage. I would HIGHLY recommend 3" or 4" schedule 40 PVC to catch the gutters and run out front if possible. Whatever you do, steer clear of corrugated drain pipe.
The Victory callout at the beginning SLAYED ME😊
same
He forgot the "good work"
Love it!
@209Control to be fair there was no kitty. He coulda petted Paul but that'd be awkward
@@LegacyZero Same!
Don’t let the slab bake in the sun. Cover it with a tarp and wet it down. It will help it cure slower and prevent cracking.
Burlap and soak it is best for strength
Very good advice. Learned that when we laid our garage in Northern California when it was 110 average that summer.
Yeah I've been watching other concrete videos because of your project.
Makes sense that after all that rain the slab would dry out and crack from too much sun…😂
Concrete is guaranteed to do two things. Get hard and crack….
Man, that fact that you break down the costs is awesome! Takes the realism of what you're doing and steps it up a big notch!
A lawn blower changed my practices. Blast the area clean of dirt, water, shavings, it's amazing when you have to kneel or lay down on a clean surface. When you have a clean site you have a clear mind. When a subby walks through a clean site, they deliver top notch work and clean up on the way out. It's amazing how thew fine details matter more during roughins with a clean site. Good work guys, I'm enjoying heaps.
I saw what you did there. Good work! 💪👍
What did you think about the pour? ... tell the truth😉
That concrete would of been rejected for being to wet in Wisconsin!!!!
@@geoffreymiller81 It was quite wet.
Jordan you are super lucky to have a father so involved in your life. What a guy. He is full of knowledge, but even more one can tell he loves you. I know my faters name but he has never given me a minute of his time. You are a lucky man sir. I really enjoy watching the videos.
Finally! Man it would be amazing if a tool company like dewalt, ridgid, or milwaukee sponsored yall. They could give you a bunch of tools, especially cordless, so yall can finish up this house with them! I think it be a win win for both of yall.
Milwaukee nailers! I use both M18 and M12, absolutely love there stuff. As far as tool belts, I like Diamondback and Boulder. Boulder are more cost friendly. As far as hand tools go its all about personal preference. As you know, there are a million brands so that's your pick. Must haves for framing/finishing: Hammer, speed square, cats paw, mini pry bars, chalk line, nail sets, utility knife, tape measure, carpenters pencils, screw drivers (Klein tools have some great multi bit types) and a small or medium sized adjustable wrench. I know I forgot something... Electrics are a different story, lol. Good luck and God bless.
A friend of mine decided to build a new house by himself (with some help from friends). He was working 30 - 35 hours a week. A year into the build, his wife complained that it was taking a long time. He told her that when the first 2 things on the job site were a lounge chair and a cooler with beer, she should have known it wasn't going to be a quick job! Had to think about that when you 2 were sitting in chairs at the end.
Good job. Thanks for teaching us and extra thanks for including your costs.
The Makita Mac 5200 3 H.P. is advertised to be able to run 2 nailers at a time. Probably my first choice. Nail the garage up by hand, its less than a days work, then use the nailers for the rest of the project. Don't listen to all the wannabe framers telling you to use the cordless guns for framing. Cordless tools are great just not for framing. Get the NR83A5 Metabo nail guns and you will be making a 100% correct decision.
I will be back home in Texas soon after 20 years of service. Your channel has convinced me to go ahead and tackle a lot of the process of building a home myself.
Here's my essential framing toolkit:
- Buckaroo tool belt with diamondback bags
- Milwaukee wood handled hammer
- M18 "worm-drive" style cordless circular saw
- Swanson speed square
- Irwin "strait-line" pencils (seriously, they are way better than most of the other ones).
- A few chalk boxes
- A few tapes
- Spencer loggers tape for large layout (steel tape doesn't stretch like the plastic ones)
- Diamondback DB Sax for holding lots of nails when sheathing
Don't forget a pair of wall jacks if you're going to try to lift pre-sheathed walls.
CONCRETE!!! I'm so relieved to finally see that slab! It's not even my house and I feel a weight lifted.
Me too, all the rain was giving me anxiety and heartburn!
I agree -- Taylor Swift Tickets!!! I recommend letting the slab slow-cure. Cover the surface with wet burlap and a tarp to give it a good cure. You can help by spraying the surface with a boiled linseed oil that has a bit of whitening agent to let you see where it's sprayed.
With the soil considerations in the Houston area, I'd suggest putting in the driveway next as the slab cures. Then proceed to the termite barriers, plate seals, hurricane straps and finally fast-tracked framing. You want all of the termite barrier that you can get. (My cousin bought a house in Southwest Houston there that turned out to have both subterranean termites and Asian termites. You could put your finger or a bar of soap through the studs after those termites were happy with their work, but running out of food.)
In the 1960s I did framing the "old school way" with four different weights of hand-operated hammers (finish, 20 oz framing, 3 pound hand sledge and 15-20 pound sledge). In many ways not that much more "advanced" than timber framing techniques. The pneumatic hammers are better these days, but not for everything. I'm not ready to go for battery electric hammers for anything other than finish work (16 oz or less). Or consider corded electric screw guns for corners and the hurricane strapping that you will need on the gulf coast and tornado strengthening further north.
In my 40 years of doing carpenter work, the one simple thing I will never work without, a speed square. When it comes to framing there is nothing better then a good speed square, skill saw guide, quick angles for rafters and so much more. Just thought I would give you all a little tip. Have fun and be safe.
and they come in regular and large sizes which helps with 2x12s and 2x4's
We used a thing called a squangle. You may remember them. They were better than a speed square for some things because they had a longer marking surface. Especially good for doing facia board and marking plum cuts on rafters. We took an 8 1/4'' worm drive skill saw and welded an extension on the front degree gauge so the saw could flop over further to cut the seat cuts out of the rafters we would stack up 30 or more rafters at a time.
@@CynthiaMilner I sure do remember them, and did use one back in the 80s and 90s. Now my carpenter work is on my own home keeping things in tip top shape, ( pushing 60 ) my big job days are behind me, unless a friend needs a helping hand with some project. Have a blessed day.
Yaaaay, It's finally done. When it downpoured in the last video even my wife groaned for you. It was looking like the elements just really didn't want you to finish this first critical step but it's finally done so congratulations.
A Treatise About Tools: Dewalt or Makita all day for the battery tools but pneumatic nailers are better, faster, and cheaper than any battery nailer you can purchase today, I haven't check all battery models but most require a gas cartridge which is an addition expense. You don't need a huge compressor either, just one big enough to run 2 guns to start, plus, and I can't stress this enough, you're going to want an air nozzle to clean yourself and the work area off at the end of the day. Also, when the garage is built, you're going to be glad you have a compressor.
Hand Tools: Buy a Estwing claw hammer and framing hammer. Other than that, you're going to need at least a 30' tape, a speed square, a 4 foot level, and pencils, don't forget pencils, you're gonna need a gross ton of them. As for the rest of the hand tools, there are home tool kits for $50-$100 buck that will have everything you need. When you start to figure out what you are looking for in a hand tool, and the ones you can't live without, you can start replacing them with better quality tools. Depending on the tool, I like Stanley, Klein, Rigid and Bosch.
One Use Tools (tools you're not going to use again after you've done the job you needed them for): trust Harbor Freight, yeah they're gonna break, but they're better than you think and they didn't cost a lot.
Rentals: Rent the tools you don't really need and can't afford to purchase of course but there will always be that little stressed out voice in the back of your head saying, you only have 2 hours to get this back, and it changes your workflow, makes the work less enjoyable and can lead to mistakes. So buy when you can.
You can get all the tools you need without breaking the bank and it will leave room for those specialty tools that you didn't think of first.
40 yrs as a licensed home builder fan of StudPack channel here.
"Hopefully, the worst is over!" is a comment I stopped using well over 39yrs ago because it's just never ever over. Prepare for more "worst" that no one can ever teach or that you really can prepare for.
Just prepare to enjoy it and Have fun and rely on befriending and asking pro's for invaluable advice everywhere you can.😇
Most definitely go paslode for the framing gun. I personally have the paslode as well as the cordless milwaukee and I use the milwaukee more often than not but I’m usually not framing houses all day every day. The negative to the milwaukee is the weight of the tool but as much framing as you have coming up you’d rather deal with the negative of the paslode which is the gas which if I had that much framing to do I would say the gas is the lesser of the two evils. The paslode probably only weighs 60-70% of what the milwaukee does and believ me when I tel you it adds up.
20 years as a civil engineer and I love watching these guys work, problem solve, and learn
And also. Get you a Martinez hammer. You can thank me later. And grab you a Perkins builder belt. For the price you can’t beat them. I love my Martinez and my Perkins belt. I’ve had the belt for six months now and still trying to get used to the suspender setup but my back sure thanks me. And I know people think the Martinez hammers are expensive. I swung estwing for years and if I lost my Martinez tomorrow I’d have one ordered by tomorrow night and gladly pay it again. My shoulder, wrist and elbow appreciate it that much
Prepare for unforseen consequences as the G-man said to Eli.
As another comments, I'm and Engineer - Civil - and yes, tarp the slap and wet it so that it does not dry out fast. It will be stronger, last longer and also prevent cracking as the tinsel strength bind better. Rule of thumb when building slab floors and remember do not seal it until 30 days have passed.
Victory Outdoor services I like it . One of my favorite channels along with you guys.
My gf just got home and I yelled out- they're getting the slab and foundation poured! She goes- thank God it's about time.
We're feeling some second-hand relief for you guys.
Nice to see the concrete poured! That was a long road to get to this point.
If the concrete can handle it I think dirt removal from the backyard should be before framing the garage.
Great job guys!
100% they're saving dirt for the actual house build.
Dirt can be removed when they tear the house down and not drive heavy equipment on that new floor
which will take 30 days or more to fully cure.
I framed for 30 years. Cordless tools changed the game SO much. I am a Milwaukee fanboy these days cause their tool line seems to never stop expanding. If I had to recommend one tool for framing though, it would have to be the Stiletto hammer. 15oz and hits like a sledgehammer. The side nail puller is indispensable after you get used to it. Great vid guys. Keep up the hard work!
The stiletto is the bomb
Forever hammer
If I were a framer, a cordless one would for sure be a solid investment. As a home owner doing DIY that already had a compressor, I just bought an air powered framing gun and have loved having it. I'm not working 5 days a week, 10 hours a day with it and the hose Vs cost was an acceptable compromise.
that is a true professionals hammer.
How many batteries do you go through in a day on a production jobsite with cordless framing nailers? I've heard a lot of conjecture over the years about cordless vs. air tools, but only being a home-gamer, my viewpoint is rather narrow. :)
Congrats on a long awaited job and well done! I don't remember our first patio pour which was probably 1955, but the finish was aggregate. Style at the time. What I do remember was making all the concrete myself in 1962 and shlepping it bucket-by-bucket underneath the house where my Dad was troweling it in for a makeshift floor in a crawlspace storage area. There was lots more, houses being what they are. Happy now to be retired. I shall raise a glass to you and your continued efforts!
Here in Southern California there would have been way more anchor bolts and stab bolts holding strong walls, and hold downs for sheer panel. Looks like you guys have bolts every 4 feet or so. Also the garages here are set up on curbs for framing and the garage slab has slope to the garage door with a hard trowel finish. Love the job chairs.
Majority of building codes require garage floors to have slope to the exterior garage door opening. I agree with you on the exterior curbs. Having wall bottom plates raised above the floor slab makes hosing out the garage less destructive on the wall materials and the additional height of the curb also lessens the potential of water penetration from rain or slow draining ground runoff.
A lot of the time out here you build a footer for the exterior walls when building a slab on grade and all your j bolts get put in there. Then you come back and pour the slab, typically with up to 24" of gravel as the base and your expansion joint strip isolating the slab from the footer. Good idea also to cut control joints in the slab.
@@tomszabo7350 I have seen it done that way as you have described. I am a fan of the monolithic pour with control joints as you have noted. I usually put down plywood to protect the finished surface during framing, since the concrete is so green, it can get gouged pretty easy. I have seen the expansion joint strip raise up over time and fill with dirt which then creates other issues. The expansion joint style as you described is still a good way to go. It's just a personal preference.
I actually power troweled my like button before smashing it. Didn't wanna get scuffed up from the broom finish, ya know. Congratulations guys!! I've thought the concrete was going on the ground in the next video for like the last three weeks. I know it's been a long road and pricey road to get here, but your attention to detail, skillful contractors and of course, Mr. Ernie's design and engineering have produced a beautiful result. Looks like it should stand the test of time, too. Hope the rest is smooth and uncomplicated sailing.
nice
I bought a Makita 5200 3 HP compressor. I'm a flooring installer and don't need something this large, but my old 2 HP Emglo twin tank died on a job. I needed something like .........like, RIGHT NOW, so I went to the pawn shop and bought this Makita 5200.
The 5200 was much larger than I needed but it's a fantastic compressor. It has two hose connections and I think goes up 150 lb.
If you ever decided to do some minor spraying or use an air chisel or something that consumes a lot of air, you'd need a bigger compressor.
I would highly recommend this one. I bought mine for $170 at the pawn shop, while locally they were closer to or just over $400.
You wouldn't regret buying this one. He's got wheels and a fold-down handle.
Nail guns are one thing but think of the future. Will you ever want to use this to run an impact gun, an air chisel, or something that consumes a lot of air?
You're not going to paint a car with this, but......
......look into this one.
It's very highly rated everywhere you look.
Tho it's 3 HP, on a weak electrical circuit, it starts much easier than my old 2 hp Emglo ever did.
It's not overly loud either.
Glad to see that slab done. 👍
Hang in there! I just spent 15k on a new 30 year roof (1400 sqf house) in CA and that was by far the cheapest quote out 8 that I got! I should have done it 2 years ago when I was quoted $9k for a similar roof replacement with ridge vents. I figured that prices would stabilize after pandemic, but its only gotten worse.
yeah i passed on a $1k gutter job 2 years ago and now it's $3k. guess im doing it myself.
Hitachi 21 degree plastic collated framing nails guns only! Frame everything laying down. Stand up, top plate, level and sheet. I'm in Weatherford if you need anything.
Looks great! Would've been epic if you guys were able to have a time lapse aerial view with the camera on the edge of your roof or gutter or something showing the whole pad. Either way, It came out great. I bet you guys are so relieved to finally have the slab done haha
I look forward to a view from the garage apartment toward the main house build from concrete on.
After the last rain episode it was so good to see this ending on a happier note, the smiles say it all! So happy for you guys
*Stud Pack* Hay fellas growing up in the business I started installing rebar in 1977, and I'll have to say you all did a fine job. Keep us posted on your progress. GOD Bless.
California Air Tool compressors are amazing!! More expensive than your traditional compressor but they are whisper quiet. Seriously, who wants to listen to the rattle of a pan cake compressor on the job site? Worth it!
So excited for you Jordan. It must feel so nice to have a solid start now. I can't wait to see what happens next! Thank you all so much for showing us the nitty gritty details.
It is nice to see for a change the reinforcement be done properly, with distance spacer in between the ground and the mesh, all securely connected. I have seen other big companies from US here on youtube pour concrete over reinforcement lying on the ground without even connecting it and behaving like they are the kings of this job.
I would look into the high pressure stuff and shy away from cordless. Ive got the M18 framing and for pickup work its great but the thing weighs a ton compared to pneumatic and when using it all day, weight matters. I prefer the metabo pneumatic nailers, affordable and reliable.
Slab Phase One -- DONE! Can't wait to see the garage and apartment go up.
Congrats guys! One thing I can no longer live without is the drill! I used to put in all of the screws by hand not anymore!!! hahaha (i am not a home builder etc I am just a brown dude that was born into a family that did not understand that a drill could tighten screws on wood and other materials lol)
Like I was told after buying an old house and finding that the floors under the nasty carpet were garbage along with floor joists that were crunchy, "you are going hate your life until it all fixed but it will be the greatest day once it is done."
I overdo everything so I had to cut and sister on both sides of the floor joists in a room that was 21 ft long. Glue, screw and then the same for all new subfloor (still need ceiling work downstairs for stepping through a couple of times).
But now that floor is like the rock of Gibraltar.
Keep pushin! On to the next...
Really glad to see you guys make this kinda progress. It has been a rough road but you guys powered through.
Paslode PowerMaster Plus pneumatic framing nailer is a beast. Mine is 20 years old and still rocking. Granted you gotta drag hoses around all day but the battery nailers are too friggin slow. Worm drive Skilsaw is the saw that built America. Get a worm drive and a regular 7.25” skilsaw. 99% of your cuts when framing will be made with the skilsaw. Add an Estwing framing hammer, speed square, a couple chalk lines, a suspension filled with all the other normal framing tools. You can leave your cordless crap on the chargers…not needed in framing.
Seeing that rain come down right before the pour was soul crushing, and you could see it on Jordan's face. Coming from a low like that to this has to be a phenomenal feeling. Congrats guys.
From Lake Stud Pack to swamp Stud Pack to the Stud Pack Slab, you guys perservered. Congrats! I framed a basement recently, and we used a nail gun on a compressor. It saved time over driving in via hammer, but the newer battery operated ones would have been better I think. The cord was constantly in the way and with something that big, the hose is going to be a nightmare. As for tools, a good speed square, some sort of nail gun and a chop saw was all we really needed. We did use a ramset, but that was for interior walls on a slab and I know you guys prefer the drill and tap method. We made some 14.5 inch jig pieces to speed up the framing to get 16 inch on center studs. Can't wait to see walls going up!
Nice job !! Excited for your next video. Makes me giggle when I think of a dry pour for this job !! You can use a red brick to bevel the edges of the concrete when you remove the forms. Cheers !!
Sooooooo happy that the mud has been poured!!! BUT... where are the stress cuts in the slab??? Surely they've been cut by now???
Have you considered accepting volunteers on certain dates to help you build? Would be interesting videos to see community support kinda like that Extreme home makeover show where groups of volunteers would show up to help. You guys always help other people so it would be interesting to see people having the opportunity to give back to you guys
I am not a big-time framer or anything, but had to build a 2 car garage by myself. I went with a cheap Rigid nailer from HD and it worked fine. You gotta ask yourself what tools are going to be worth paying the extra for. Youre on a budget and aren't getting paid by clients for work. Tools for 2-3 people will start adding up fast.
I’m so excited to see the concrete finally being poured. Congrats! Can’t wait to see the building process. Love you guys
A lot of work to get to this place. It nice to see both of you relaxing in the chairs on the garage floor.
1) cut control joints in the concrete for cracking.
2) tarp it and keep it soaked for 2-3 weeks for it to harden. Wet curing it makes stronger concrete.
Having spent a few years living in Houston, I would recommend setting up drainage and moving most that select fill or your likely to continue to have to fight weather issues in addition to your other tasks.
Built my own house during the pandemic. Titanium hammer is a must to drive nails far and save your arms. I had good luck with a Paslode pneumatic framing nailer with a small pancake compressor. I also bought a palm nailer instead of a positive placement nailer all hangers. Palm nailer worked great and fit in tight places as well as being easier on the pocket book. Only other major tool I recommend is a sausage caulking gun. Alot of great products are cheaper to buy in bulk and use the sausage gun
Yes to the sausage gun. Also, I bought a couple sections of used scaffolding years ago. They have come in handy so many times. Upper story windows, soffit work, painting, etc.
I wouldn't do without my air nailer for nothing, I have gas and works fine but I never run out of air, light weight hose no problems, glad you finally got your pad, wet it down a couple times.
Truly a joy to be a part of the evolution of this channel. The editing and production quality are superb, and watching all of you become more comfortable in front of the camera is great.
So happy to celebrate this milestone with you guys!
Stanley makes a few prybars that are a universal must have. They are a catspaw with a "whale tail"... They make several sizes. What makes them special is the roundover of the tail end. They got it right...Ive had other brands....forget em...We use them constantly for pulling nails, scraping, prying. Fits nice in the pouch.... I also bought nail bags that have a clip you attach to your belt. You can take them off or put back on, with ease. Get ones you can get your hands into easily, with a material that is strong, but doesn't scratch up your fine work...
Love the progress, Love the transparency from the Stud Pack crew. Congratulations on a huge milestone with that slab and looking forward to all the upcoming videos.
So glad I decided to get new countertops and redo the backsplash in my kitchen, it led me to this channel and I've been hooked! THIS is the kind of stuff I always wanted to see on HGTV. Glad to see that concrete on the ground!
I dunno. Your in Texas, your relaxed in your chairs there... and, I'm hearing the 'King of the Hill' theme playing.... weird.
I once polished concrete to a smooth finish by wet sanding it. It was for a counter top. With the right form, you can actually get to dry to a mirror finish without having to sand it.
What a milestone, guys. I've been fascinated at how much work goes into making a strong foundation. Here's hoping this house you're building lasts well after the AI overlords take over.
You guys are great .
Most enjoyable seeing a father son effort and learning experience.
I hope the You Tube $$$$ pays rewards for years to come.
I missed your earlier videos -- Please tell us again how many sq feet that slab is.
Something to consider…especially in areas where rain is common in the afternoon.
Pour a spread footer and the grade beams.
Build a block stem wall, framing on top.
After the area is covered, then pour the slab.
I’m really proud for you guys! You kicked some major booty to get here and along the way reminded us of what honest hard work looks like. Stay strong because you are on your way!
Former old-school framer (as well as many other trades under my belt) who lived with the drag of dragging hoses around, if I had the choice today, I would get a battery-powered nail gun. I do have a M-18 finish nailer and that thing has never let me down.
holy crap! great work but the CO$T! im makin ok in Electrical but i gotta raise my rates, A LOT, im thinkn $50 hr base.. $100 if you watch me... $200 if you try to HELP
My M18 surge impact is my favorite tool ever. It has good power, but the best part is it has absolutely incredible trigger control and it's quiet
So glad the slab is done ! As far as tools get what fits your hand and feels good, but as far as a hammer make sure you get one with anti-vibe or has some type of shock absorber. After 40 years swinging a hammer and needing two wrist surgeries and one elbow surgery. A good hammer is a must
Wonder bar, good cats paw, good hammer with magnetic nail holder on top (waffle faced), stabila plate level, 4 foot stabila level, 40 foot tape measure, 10 foot tape measure, good framing nailer, palm nailer, good drill, good impact driver, rafter square, drywall square, compound miter saw, chalkline and reel, drywall rasp, etc.
Love the tribute to Victory Outdoor Services. Ryan is an awesome guy. Keep up the hard work guys you'll have that garage up in no time
Thank you both. Though I dont know when your videos will post, I always stop everything I'm doing to watch when they post!
Milwaukee makes killer drills and impact drivers. I bought an 18v kit last year, with the reciprocating saw...Sweet comfort.....Worthy tools. That new driver is quieter, with a adjustment level buttons for best control....Their Fastback razor knives are great too...One handed opening, with blade storage. I give Milwaukee tools 5 stars.
Victory style baby!!! nice work stud pack.
Congrats. This is what it's all about. Having a vision, a plan and then making it happen.
About tools: For PEX water piping, the expansion-type system (Propex etc.) is the only way to go. The expansion tool costs $400+ but it is a TOTAL LIFE-CHANGING EXPERIENCE compared to the crimp or copper ring compression systems. Totally worth it, and worth the trouble of finding the PEX-A pipe and expansion fittings (which aren't in retail stores, only pro plumbing suppliers)
Many years ago when I started out I was told to get a good pair of rubbery sneakers w/round cups in the soles and an eswing straight claw steel hammer! It can save your butt in a roof fall. Always keep it on the front belt hoop, you feel your slidin' ram that claw right in the roof and hold on! Sometime went by and once or twice I had to use it. Back then plywood went on the roof so it could be slippery. Nowadays that has been replaced by chemical treatment ply and different roof systems all together. Glad to see the start of worries begin. It will never go away and that is a good thing actually! Just when and if the crud gets a bit deep, go sit down and have a cool drink and a steak and try again later!
Glad to see it finally reaching a point where y'all are comfortable (framing). Keep up the good work!
Looks good. Nice to see progress. Have you considered piles with a grade beam between the piles. Piles work if you have good earth under your soft soil
Concrete lesson: Concrete will shrink and crack. You put cuts in it so it cracks on the cuts. Do not know about your area your concrete people could tell you what is normal in your area. Calk the cuts with elastomer, the type you see on side walks.
If you put the bar in the bottom 1/3 it will hold the slab together under compression IE drive truck on it. If you put the bar in top 1/3 it will hold the top together and cracks will be very narrow. Good on patios.
Long ago the rule for bar from external surface used to be 3 bar diameters or 1.5" what ever is greater.
Saw some chairs under the bar on the floor. If they fall over pull the bar up as you pour.
Do level survey on slab to see if it settles over the next year.
We just poured two foundations. We set hoses with timers that water them down every few hours, as per all our houses.
YES!! WooHoo! The foundation is in! Now on to the building. It's going to seem like it goes up fast from here! Can't wait to see what's next.
This video really hits home. My father in law is helping me build a semi inground pool in our yard...we're doing a lot of on the job learning and paying some beginner tax as well. He is above expert level DIY like you, Paul, but still always finding stuff you've never quite come across.
ALWAYS enjoy it when everything is expained thoroughly. Much appreciated!
Hi from Canada..I know exactly what you are going through..I planned building my cottage a year ago then we got hit with supply issues and inclement weather. Lots of rain. Our foundation was finally poured last week and we are starting to frame. Like you fellas, it's exciting to finally see progress. Can't wait to watch your next phase. As for special tools, cordless is the way to go yet most importantly, a ripping hammer. And in my case given I've no electricity, so a generator is a great add on. Cheers
Cordless finish nailers are great but the cordless framing hammer (specifically Milwaukee‘s) is heavy…maybe not at first but after a whole day of handling it, it is fatiguing. I’ve gone back to pneumatic framing guns but love the Milwaukee line of trim nailers.
When it comes to the structure / sub-structure (dig out 5 feet, 2 foot / 6 grade beams, you get the idea) of a house, there is no such thing as overkill if you want a build that will last instead of fall down before it should have. Great Job, guys. Keep up the good work and keep the great videos coming.
Dont forget to run network wire (Cat6) once you are finished framing. There are affordable Power Over Ethernet or POE, CCTV systems with various amounts of storage space. Network Video Recorder or NVR for short. Installing cameras on your outter perimeter will prove to be a smart move. I am Big Fan of the Ubiguity products when it comes to home and business internet and network needs such as Routers, Switches, Wireless Access Points. A network switch will be essiential if your want to connect all your wired network devices like Computers, TV's,Gaming Consoles,Apple TVS, CCTV, Printers and even Wifif Antenna (inside and outside). Also plan out where you want to hang TVs and install plywood backing tied to your studs. This allows you to use a lagg anchors for your mounts. This will also help spread the load of the heavier displays like a 75 inch and larger.
Congrats on the milestone! I'm sure it's great to have that behind you.
In regards to tools:
I'm just a DIYer who reframed their basement and has helped my siblings with their own houses (honestly thanks to y'alls videos), but I love my Estwing Hammer-Tooth framing hammer. I used it a ton to straighten boards and keep my hand away from my nailgun.
I also have a battery powered 21 degree nailer that I'm happy with, no idea how well it would hold up if I were framing every day, but I did do my entire basement with it. I liked that it allowed me to work on it late into the evening after work without the noise of a compressor.
They did a good job, I also liked the fact you put in foundation around the perimeter.
Opening with the Victory reference had me falling out of my chair!!! 🤣🤣🤣 Nice looking slab, can't wait to see some lumber going up!
It's about time. LETS GO!
You guys are awesome! Thank you for your honesty and integrity! Also for your insight on attacking adversity!
Awesome work done with Mother Nature holding you down. I enjoy watching the work that y’all do in your videos. After each video is over I am anxiously waiting for the next video of entertainment. Thank y’all.
So excited for you all.
Haha! Little bit of Victory Outdoor Services there! Ryan is a great boss and fun to watch too.
Easy money!
Smells like Victory!
Congratulations! Let's just hope there isn't another storm the washes that mound of dirt back onto your nice new concrete. When we built my stand-alone garage we had to keep it wrapped in while working on the inside before the overhead doors were in. A guy who knew a guy who knew a guy came up with a couple used vinyl billboard signs. Giant tarps! And heavy too. After the building was finished it took some time to get rid of them. Something to think about as you progress through your entire build.
I have all the guns. I just bought a new Milwaukee stick framer. I like it but… it’s HEAVY! A air coil gun will hold more nails and is definitely lighter.
You can get a bostitch coil gun that will shoot 90% of your nails. It will shoot framing nails, decking nails, and hardened nails into concrete. It’s very versatile!
But a gun you CAN NOT live without especially framing is a strap nailer. Man it makes your life so much easier. Nailing in straps is so fast with one!
You had a legendary struggle to get this slab done and done right. It never hurts to be better than code. Never forget code is the minimum acceptable condition. I am glad you finally are at the point where you can do much of the work yourselves. It is looking good!
Great job! It's about time it got finished to this stage. As for tools, I can't suggest anything particular other than I like to have a couple different tool belts depending on what particular work (trade) I am doing framing & rough woodwork, electrical, and so on. I found having the right tools for the specific job is key and so is the tool belt to suit them. Keep up the hard work and can't wait for the next video.
Good job! Great to see Jordan getting confident in front of the camera! Thanks guys!
Now might be a good time to start thinking about grading and drainage. I would HIGHLY recommend 3" or 4" schedule 40 PVC to catch the gutters and run out front if possible. Whatever you do, steer clear of corrugated drain pipe.
sitting in the garage, celebrating a job well done.. congrats guys!!
Of course you have all your impact drivers, hammers, ect, but I absolutely love my Makita track saw. I use it all the time.