I hand load for bolt action rifles up here in Alaska. For new brass, with long winter nights, I have plenty of time for virgin brass prep. These steps are not necessary, but I think help: 1) Lube cases and run through expander mandrel for more consistent neck internal dimension. 2) Trim cases so they are all the same consistent length and so turning case necks will be consistent. 3) Chamfer and deburr the case mouths. Use a VLD chamfer if using VLD bullets. 4) Turn the case necks for more consistent neck thickness and more consistent neck tension. 5) Deburr and chamfer the flash holes inside the cases for more consistent primer ignition 6) Uniform the case primer pockets for more consistent primer seating depth. 7) Run cases through expander mandrel one last time for more uniform internal neck dimension and more consistent neck tension. 8) Wash cases in vibratory tumbler to clean out specks of brass and lube. Dry cases for a couple days. 9) Hand prime cases 10) Weigh cases and sort them into packages by weight where each package has brass of similar weight. I usually purchase quality brass like Lapua, Peterson, Nozler, Norma in lots of 100. Each lot is hand-loaded for one specific rifle and always processed as one lot. So I'll fire-form the 100 cases and keep them together as a lot. I usually anneal the 100 cases after each 2 reloadings.
I'm only guessing, but I think the reason you get those dinged up necks on virgin Winchester brass comes down to the packaging. For my bolt action rifles, I use Lapua brass which comes in those blue plastic cases; the necks still aren't perfect, but they are a lot better. I have also compared new Lapua brass and new Starline brass in .300 Blackout. Normally, I only use the less-expensive brass for reloading my semi-auto rifles and handgun ammo, but everyone was out of .300 Blackout in the cheaper stuff, so I bought two boxes of the Lapua. Side by side, the higher quality of the Lapua was noticeable, but it cost twice as much. Also, I've always heard that Lapua and other high-end brass manufacturers form their flash holes by a superior method that yields higher uniformity from the factory.
I agree. The Lapua I bought for 22-250 had much better necks. However, it still wasn't as good as I expected from Lapua. It honestly wasn't better than the bulk starline I just bought for my 30-06.
I hand load for bolt action rifles up here in Alaska. For new brass, with long winter nights, I have plenty of time for virgin brass prep.
These steps are not necessary, but I think help:
1) Lube cases and run through expander mandrel for more consistent neck internal dimension.
2) Trim cases so they are all the same consistent length and so turning case necks will be consistent.
3) Chamfer and deburr the case mouths. Use a VLD chamfer if using VLD bullets.
4) Turn the case necks for more consistent neck thickness and more consistent neck tension.
5) Deburr and chamfer the flash holes inside the cases for more consistent primer ignition
6) Uniform the case primer pockets for more consistent primer seating depth.
7) Run cases through expander mandrel one last time for more uniform internal neck dimension and more consistent neck tension.
8) Wash cases in vibratory tumbler to clean out specks of brass and lube. Dry cases for a couple days.
9) Hand prime cases
10) Weigh cases and sort them into packages by weight where each package has brass of similar weight.
I usually purchase quality brass like Lapua, Peterson, Nozler, Norma in lots of 100. Each lot is hand-loaded for one specific rifle and always processed as one lot. So I'll fire-form the 100 cases and keep them together as a lot. I usually anneal the 100 cases after each 2 reloadings.
I want to venture off into the world of neck turning and mandrel expansion when time and funds allow.
I'm only guessing, but I think the reason you get those dinged up necks on virgin Winchester brass comes down to the packaging. For my bolt action rifles, I use Lapua brass which comes in those blue plastic cases; the necks still aren't perfect, but they are a lot better. I have also compared new Lapua brass and new Starline brass in .300 Blackout. Normally, I only use the less-expensive brass for reloading my semi-auto rifles and handgun ammo, but everyone was out of .300 Blackout in the cheaper stuff, so I bought two boxes of the Lapua. Side by side, the higher quality of the Lapua was noticeable, but it cost twice as much. Also, I've always heard that Lapua and other high-end brass manufacturers form their flash holes by a superior method that yields higher uniformity from the factory.
I agree. The Lapua I bought for 22-250 had much better necks. However, it still wasn't as good as I expected from Lapua. It honestly wasn't better than the bulk starline I just bought for my 30-06.