Bro, remove the fpcb kit, dont use that, reinstall the dat0 wire under the emmc (sandwich it) after reballing and see if you can boot to hekate . If the console cannot boot to the OFW, I guess there is a mismatched fuse. reroute or reinstall new wires to the modchip and see if you can boot it up to hekate later.
I have a similar situation with oled, I soldered the chip, everything was fine according to the indications, after that there was an attempt to turn it on, but I was shown only a black screen, it warmed up like yours, after 10-15 minutes of searching for a heating place, it stopped warming up, but the switch never worked, I don't know what to do, I will wait for your 2 parts) I think it's the rp2040-based chips that they somehow put the 3.3 line on the ground, more than necessary, and after that it can't recover
I have similar issue with 2 consoles. Difference: one of them show 3.3 v when the battery is connected, the other console no. That two, shuted down when are playing in dock mode. I installed around 20 with 0 issues. All points are correct normal measurements in diode mode.
If I don't want to risk installing this myself, do you install them on brand new systems? I'm from the US as well and don't mind paying shipping + supplying chip.
Am I right in thinking the non-permanent method is a safer bet if you're not an expert? Seems like you have less chance of messing something up if you're not reflowing the nand and you instead just tin up the memory contact tape and slide it under and solder it in place to the shielding. Or is there just as much of a chance of messing up the switch for example if you misalign the tape under the nand, but you DON'T reflow the chip. Will that potentially do just as much damage as reflowing it while its missaligned?
the non permanent option is fine, i know people who have had it on for a year and been fine, but technically any bump on it could misalign it and cause it to not make a contact, so you wuould just have to open it up and resolder it in place..
Hey help please, I reboot my oled and black screen, my hwfly flash blue than flash green then stay on green than shut of , nothing on the screen, help please
my installer said the no sd card screen popped up but when he gave it back to me its been in stock firmware and I do not know how to get it back to the no sd screen please help
I really wannna programmable OLED nand but it seems like you need to be very experienced in diagnostics to do this mod. Not just soldering. The soldering job itself is nothing I haven't done before but there seems if you don't get it absolutely correct the first time, you're going to brick your switch or fry something the first time you power it up after installing the mod. You would have to have extensive knowledge of the switch PCB and be able to probe everything before powering it on to do this successfully. Or you just get lucky.
Bro, remove the fpcb kit, dont use that, reinstall the dat0 wire under the emmc (sandwich it) after reballing and see if you can boot to hekate . If the console cannot boot to the OFW, I guess there is a mismatched fuse. reroute or reinstall new wires to the modchip and see if you can boot it up to hekate later.
i love you
Maybe you bridged 3.3V and GND while desoldering the modchip at 6:30?
There seems to be a connection from what I can see in the video.
yup. i see it too
I think you shorted the EMMC solder balls when you wiggled the chip before reballing.
It is a joy to watch your process. Thank you for sharing it.
After wiggling the chip like that, I wouldn't risk turning the power on! But still a great job. Thanks! )
Hope will be soon a part 2....:)
There is
I have a similar situation with oled, I soldered the chip, everything was fine according to the indications, after that there was an attempt to turn it on, but I was shown only a black screen, it warmed up like yours, after 10-15 minutes of searching for a heating place, it stopped warming up, but the switch never worked, I don't know what to do, I will wait for your 2 parts)
I think it's the rp2040-based chips that they somehow put the 3.3 line on the ground, more than necessary, and after that it can't recover
I have similar issue with 2 consoles. Difference: one of them show 3.3 v when the battery is connected, the other console no. That two, shuted down when are playing in dock mode. I installed around 20 with 0 issues. All points are correct normal measurements in diode mode.
If I don't want to risk installing this myself, do you install them on brand new systems? I'm from the US as well and don't mind paying shipping + supplying chip.
Am I right in thinking the non-permanent method is a safer bet if you're not an expert? Seems like you have less chance of messing something up if you're not reflowing the nand and you instead just tin up the memory contact tape and slide it under and solder it in place to the shielding. Or is there just as much of a chance of messing up the switch for example if you misalign the tape under the nand, but you DON'T reflow the chip. Will that potentially do just as much damage as reflowing it while its missaligned?
the non permanent option is fine, i know people who have had it on for a year and been fine, but technically any bump on it could misalign it and cause it to not make a contact, so you wuould just have to open it up and resolder it in place..
Hey help please, I reboot my oled and black screen, my hwfly flash blue than flash green then stay on green than shut of , nothing on the screen, help please
Thank you for sharing with us 🙏
my installer said the no sd card screen popped up but when he gave it back to me its been in stock firmware and I do not know how to get it back to the no sd screen please help
How can I send mine to you
what was the difference between 4.0 and 4.1 chips?
Hello,If you remove the IC or turn off the input power, it will probably turn on.
I really wannna programmable OLED nand but it seems like you need to be very experienced in diagnostics to do this mod. Not just soldering. The soldering job itself is nothing I haven't done before but there seems if you don't get it absolutely correct the first time, you're going to brick your switch or fry something the first time you power it up after installing the mod. You would have to have extensive knowledge of the switch PCB and be able to probe everything before powering it on to do this successfully. Or you just get lucky.
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